(5). The foot is knitted plain, with intakes from the heel onwards, to get rid of the superfluous stitches. Then knit a plain piece, without a seam-stitch, till you begin to decrease for the toe, which can be worked in several different ways.

To ensure the right proportions between the several parts of a stocking, the following directions should be attended to. An ornamental top must never be taken into account, in measuring the length of the leg. When the top part is finished, you make the seam, at the beginning of the first needle of the round, of one, or two purled stitches, or sometimes, a narrow pattern of purled stitches. This marks the middle of the stocking. For ordinary-sized stockings, knit plain from the top-band, till the knitted piece, forms a square.

For stockings that are to cover the knee, knit half as much again, that is one and a half times the width of the stocking. This brings you to the calf of the leg. Pull the third stitch after the seam, over the second, and knit together the two last but one before the seam. There should be 12 rounds between each of the first 3 or 4 intakes, and after that 8, until this part is one and a half times the width of the knee in length, and a quarter narrower.

For the ankle, knit a plain piece, half the width of the knee in length, without intakes.

For the heel, count the stitches on the four needles, exclusive of the seam, and put two stitches more than the quarter of the whole number on to the needles, to the right and left of the seam.

For a heel to fit well, it should be as long as it is wide. In order that they should wear better, the heel and the toe are often knitted with double thread. Coton a feutrer D.M.C[A] is made expressly for that purpose, and should be wound round the thread of which the whole stocking is made. For the instep, the part between the heel and toe, you must go on decreasing from the heel, until you have 2 stitches less on each needle, than you had at the ankle. Then knit the plain part of the foot, which should be as wide as the ankle, after which proceed to decrease for the toe, which should be a quarter the length of the whole foot. In spite of this careful subdivision, it is always well to count the stitches, to ensure perfect regularity. The number of stitches cast on, at the outset, for the same-sized stockings, must depend upon the size of the wool or cotton; we can only give the numbers approximately. Our calculation is based on the use of 5 needles; the given number has therefore to be cast on four times.

_____________ Coton a tricoter D.M.C Number of stitches to Number of stitches to be cast on one needle for be cast on one needle Numbers to be used stocking ordinary-sized for stockings that are to reach above the knee _____________ 25 32 36 30 34 38 35 36 42 40 40 46 50 42 50 _____________

SCALLOPED EDGE (figs. 355 and 356).—This is the simplest and strongest edge you can have for a stocking, and is called the cat's-teeth edge.



Having cast on the stitches, knit 6 to 10 rounds plain, according to the size of the cotton, then one round of alternate intakes and overs. Knit as many plain rounds as before, and with a sixth needle take up as many of the cast on stitches, as you have stitches on one of the upper needles. Turn this needle inwards, and place it against the outside needle and knit off both needles together. See that you knit the corresponding stitches off together, otherwise the scallops that form the edge will be crooked.

COMMON HEEL (fig. 357).—This is the simplest form of heel, and can be knitted either with or without an outside seam. Divide the stitches into four, and put two more on each of the heel needles than on the others, then make, according to the size of the cotton, from 15 to 20 seams; knit off all the stitches on the right needle and a third of those on the left. Supposing that you have 24 stitches, knit off 8, then slip 1, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over, knit 2 plain, turn the work, slip the first, and purl the next 8 stitches of the second needle; purl the 9th and 10th together, purl 2, turn the work to the right side, and slip the first stitch on to the right needle. By means of these successive intakes after the 8 stitches, the knitting forms a plait on both sides of the heel.



In all heels that are made after this pattern, the intakes must begin on the right side and the last one must be made on the wrong, so that once the heel is finished and the work turned, you can go on knitting plain.

When you have finished the stitches of the two heel needles up to the outside seams, take up the stitches on the sides of the heel with a spare needle and knit them on to the left heel needle, then knit the stitches reserved for the instep, take up the stitches on the right side of the heel again and knit them on to the fourth needle.

In the next round, knit all the stitches of the first needle plain, excepting the 4 last; knit the first and second of these together and the two last plain. Knit the two first stitches of the fourth needle plain, slip the third, knit the fourth and pull the slipped stitch over.

HEEL IN STEPS (fig. 358).—After dividing the stitches, make from 12 to 14 seams. Then knit as many stitches of the first needle as you have seams at the side; turn the work, and begin the needle with the seam you made first. Knit off as many stitches from the second needle as from the first. Make the same number of seams, as for the first part of the heel. When the seams are finished, take up the chain stitches, on both sides, make a decrease by knitting the last stitch of the small part and the first of the large, together; knit two; turn the work; slip the first stitch, knit to the second side, and decrease as in the first part.



When you have decreased all the stitches up to the last, take up the slipped stitches of the first part, and begin the intakes for the instep in the ordinary way.

There is not more work in this pattern of heel than in any other; it fits closely and consequently wears well.

PLAIN HEEL (figs. 359 and 360).—Those who are not fond of purling will appreciate this and the following pattern for a plain heel.



Knit off the stitches of the first needle after the seam; then on to two spare needles, cast on, 8 more stitches than you had on one needle after dividing the stitches; put the stitches of the third and fourth needles together and knit the first round plain.

2nd round—knit together the 1st and 2nd, and the 9th and 10th of the first auxiliary needle; and the 10th and 9th and 2nd and 1st of the second.

3rd round—plain.

4th round—knit together the 1st and 2nd and the 7th and 8th of the first needle.

5th round—plain.

6th round—knit together the 1st and 2nd and the 5th and 6th of the first auxiliary needle; and the 6th and 7th and the last but one and the last, of the second.

7th, 10th, 11th, 13th, 14th, 16th, 17th, 19th, 20th rounds all plain.

8th round—knit together the 1st and 2nd, and the 3rd and 4th of the first auxiliary needle, and the 4th and 3rd, and the last stitch but one and the last, of the second.

9th round—After the two last intakes, purl together the 4th and 3rd stitches before the end of the 1st and 3rd needle, and the 3rd and 4th at the beginning of the 2nd and 4th needles.

12th, 15th, and 18th rounds—Decrease, the same as in the 9th round.

21st round—knit 2 plain, at the beginning of the 1st and 3rd needles; knit the next 2 together; knit together the 4th and 3rd, before the end of the 2nd and 4th needles; knit the last stitches plain; go on decreasing in this way until the purled stitches meet. After the plain round over the intakes, add four plain rounds, divide the stitches that remain for the sole, on two needles and cast off on the wrong side.

Now take up the auxiliary stitches, and in the first 3 plain rounds, knit together the last and the first of the 1st and 2nd needles, and the last and the first of the 3rd and 4th.

With the rest of the extra stitches make purled intakes, knitting two plain rounds after each round with an intake.

For the other kind of plain heel also (fig. 360), auxiliary stitches are required. Supposing that you have 20 stitches on each needle, you must cast on 28 stitches on to each auxiliary needle; knit together the 4th and 3rd stitches at the end of the 1st and 3rd needles, and the 3rd and 4th of the 2nd and 3rd needles, so that you may have 4 plain stitches between both intakes. Go on decreasing, knitting 2 plain rounds after each round with an intake, until you have 6 stitches left on each needle. Then knit together the first and last stitches of each needle, one plain round over it, and finish with a chain on the wrong side of the heel. Then take up the auxiliary stitches and knit the instep.

ITALIAN STOCKING (fig. 361).—The heel, sole and toe of a stocking always wear out before the instep. The Italians and Greeks economise time and material and facilitate the renewal of those parts that wear out, by knitting the upper part of the foot in two pieces. After knitting the heel in on or other of the above ways, work the foot as straight knitting with the two upper needles only, until you have the necessary length. Then knit the underneath part separately, in the same way. You must keep a chain along all edges and a narrow seam of one or two stitches. In the sole, which you make after finishing the upper part, you intakes must come directly after and before the seam. When you have got the same number of rounds in each piece, join them together and begin the toe.



Sew up the slits left open on either side, with a needle and thread taking care to fit the corresponding stitches together.

In this manner, when one part wears out, you have only to unpick these side-seams and re-sole or re-heel the stocking as the case may be.

TOE (fig. 362).—To begin as before, with the simplest and most ordinary way of making this part of the stocking, divide the stitches equally on to the 4 needles; knit together the 4th and 3rd stitches before the end of the 1st and 3rd needles, knit the 2 last and 2 first stitches of the 2nd and 4th needles plain, and make an intake by slipping the 3rd stitch, knitting the 4th, and pulling the slipped stitch over. Begin by knitting 2 plain rounds after each of the first 4 rounds with an intake, and afterwards only one. When you have only 4 stitches left on each needle, collect them on two, and knit them together, two and two, on the wrong side of the stocking.



TOE (fig. 363).—Here, before beginning to decrease, divide the stitches by 8, 10, or 12. Supposing that they have been divided by 10, knit 8 plain; knit the 9th and 10th together, 8 plain, knit two together, and so on, the whole way round. Then knit as many plain rounds as there are plain stitches between 2 intakes. In the next rounds with intakes, you will have one stitch less between each intake, in the second therefore, there should be 7 plain stitches between each intake, and you knit 7 plain rounds; and so on to the 7th round, when 2 stitches will remain, followed by 2 plain rounds; when there are only 4 stitches left on the needles, turn them in to the wrong side of the stocking, and finish off with a chain.



TOE (fig. 364).—Begin the intakes with the two first stitches of each needle, by the slip and pull over process, knit one plain round after each round with an intake. In the following rounds, make the intake in the 2nd round with the 3rd and 4th stitches, in the 3rd, with the 5th and 6th stitches, in the 4th, with the 7th and 8th stitches, so that when finished the intakes form a kind of spiral. Finish off in the ordinary way.



TOE (fig. 365).—We will describe one other kind of toe, quite as shapely and easy to make as the others.



1st round—purl the first 2 stitches on each needle together.

2nd and 3rd, 5th and 6th, 8th and 9th, 11th and 12th, 14th and 15th, 17th and 18th rounds—plain.

4th round—1 plain, 1 intake with the 2nd and 3rd stitches, and with the last 2 on each needle.

7th round—knit the 2 first plain, make 1 intake with the 3rd and 4th stitches, and 1 with the 2 last.

In each of the next rounds with intakes, knit 1 plain stitch more.

When the two seams meet, pull the last stitch on each needle over the first of the next; knit the stitches between the intakes plain. Continue to decrease in this manner until the last stitches are reached.

MENDING KNITTING.—Knitted articles are repaired by reconstructing the web with a needle and thread. When the stitches are not actually broken, they can be strengthened by new ones made over them, by means of a needle and thread.

MATERIALS FOR DARNING STOCKINGS.—The thread used for darning a stocking should be a little finer than that of which it is made. Coton a repriser D.M.C[A] is the best, for as it consists of several strands it can be subdivided as occasion requires.

STRENGTHENING THE STITCHES (figs. 366 and 367).—This can be done in two ways. In fig. 366, the thread is brought out between two horizontal bars, passed upwards over a perpendicular bar, put in by the side of the same and brought out between the next horizontal bars.

Work the second row of stitches backwards; take up two threads on the left, pass downwards to the right, over one thread, take up the thread you passed over, and so on.



The other way, fig. 367, is, when you have brought out your needle, to carry it over one thread to the right and upwards over two, take up the next two threads on the left, pass downwards over two horizontal threads, and over one thread to the right, and put in the needle where it first came out; then working from right to left, take up two threads, pass over one to the right, and downwards over two horizontal ones, and so on. In the next row, hold your work, the finished part uppermost, carry the needle downwards over one horizontal thread, bring it out between two threads that lie separately and take it downwards again over two horizontal threads, pick up two threads, working from right to left, pass upwards over two threads and over one to the right, take up two to the left, and so on.

REPAIRING PLAIN KNITTING (fig. 368).—When a broken piece of stocking web requires to be replaced by new, draw the new and the old pieces together with a needle and thread, using the same thread the stocking is made of.



For this purpose, you must clear the loops, by ravelling them out top and bottom, and slip them on to knitting needles. The loops that are to be connected must lie exactly opposite to each other. Enter your threaded needle upwards from below through the first disengaged upper loop, and slip it off the knitting needle, then enter the needle, downwards from above through the first lower loop, and upwards from below through the next, and draw out just enough thread to make the new loop the same size as the old ones. Then enter the needle, downwards from above, through the same upper loop you took up before, taking up also the one next to it, and passing your needle through it from underneath; draw out the thread to form the new loop and descend again to the next, and so on.

REPAIRING PURLED KNITTING (fig. 369).—To repair ribbed surfaces consisting of alternate rows of plain and purl, proceed as follows: hold the article so that the row of purled stitches is exactly opposite the upper part. Enter your needle upwards from below, through the first loop of the upper part; join the two lower loops together as in fig. 368; carry the needle upwards again, and enter it upwards from below through the first loop of the upper part and downwards from above, through the loop next it. Join the lower loops again, as in plain knitting.



DISENGAGING THE LOOPS FOR DARNING (fig. 370).—Where the threads are broken, new loops have to be made, and the broken ones ravelled out and cut, so that the horizontal loops may stand out clear and distinct. Cut the threads on the vertical sides so that the loops form an edge and the hole is square, clear two or four loops in the corners of the hole, fold them in and fasten them off at the back by a stitch or two. The darns we are next going to describe should be made upon a ball to prevent drawing the threads too tightly.



DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED HORIZONTALLY (figs. 371 and 372).—Carry a horizontal thread across on the wrong side, in the place of each broken thread, securing it in the sound part of the stocking, about two threads from the edge of the hole. When you have made this foundation, put the needle in on the right side near the stitch that is nearest to the sound part on the left, fig. 371.



Then descending, pick up the nearest horizontal thread from below, so that the working thread lies to the right of the needle, and cover all the horizontal threads you have laid in this manner.

When you have taken up the last thread, pass the needle downwards from above, through the nearest loop, and bring it back through the one at which you entered it.

To make, in reascending, the second half of the loop, you must lay your thread to the right of the needle, fig. 372.

When you have reached the last thread, enter the needle at the loop, opposite the one it came out of.

DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED OBLIQUELY ACROSS (figs. 373 and 374).—As the illustration shows, you have to pick up all the cleared loops, besides two or three on either side of the empty space. The number and length of the threads which you carry across, must correspond with those of the threads you have to replace.



Fasten in, from the right side, a rather finer thread than the one the original web is made of, and make a few stitches over the existing ones, in the row you are about to complete.

Enter the needle upwards from below, through the first disengaged loop, pass it under two threads issuing from one loop, and then bring it back again into the same loop between the two slanting threads, drawing it out again upwards from below, through the next loop, and so on. The new loop must be just equal to the old ones in size. Make in the same manner as at the beginning, two or three stitches at the end of the row, within the edge of the hole. Work back in a similar way, with this difference only, that you turn your work round.

PIQUE PATTERN (fig. 375).—The following patterns are suitable for making counterpanes, petticoats, vests and other articles of clothing. Select a suitable number of Coton a tricoter D.M.C. Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 7, and begin by 6 rows of 5 plain stitches and 1 purled, taken from behind.



7th row—purl from behind the 3rd of the 5 plain, and knit 5 plain more and so on.

PIQUE PATTERN (fig. 376).—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 14.

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1st and 2nd row—* purl 7, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1; repeat from *.

3rd and 4th row—* knit 7, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1; repeat from *.

Repeat the whole from the 1st row.

PIQUE PATTERN (fig. 377).—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 4.



The 8 first rows—knit 2, purl 2.

9th and 10th row—knit 2 over the 2 purled, purl 2 over the 2 knitted of the 8th row.

11th and 12th rows—the same as the first 8 rows.

13th and 14th row—the same as the 9th and 10th row.

15th to the 23rd—the same as the first 8 rows.

STRIPES FOR COUNTERPANES (fig. 378).—This pattern is to be worked in stripes, of two colours; we may here take occasion to mention that in choosing two colours, one dark and one light, for a piece of work, the dark cotton should always be one or two numbers finer than the light, because the dark dyes thicken the cotton more than the light ones do. The blue, red and dark brown dyes sink into the cotton more and cause it to swell, whereas the lighter dyes do not affect its thickness.

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Hence it comes, that for the stripes, here described, we were obliged to take No. 8 of the red cotton and No. 6 of the green, in order that the same number of stitches should make the same length of stripe.

Cast on 28 stitches:

1st needle—slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 3, 1 chain stitch.

2nd needle—wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, knit 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.

3rd needle—right side: slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 2, 1 chain stitch.

4th needle—wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.

5th needle—on the right side: slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 2, 1 chain stitch.

6th needle—on the wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.

7th needle like the 5th, 8th needle like the 4th, 9th needle like the 3rd, 10th needle like the 2nd, 11th needle like the 1st. Five plain stitches form a zig-zag in the middle of the stripe.

Join the stripes with crochet stitches; of which several kinds are described in the next chapter.

KNITTED SQUARE (fig. 379).—Cast on 2 stitches on to each of the 4 needles. Repeat always 3 times after the asterisk.



1st row—over, knit 1, over, knit 1 *.

2nd row—knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 *.

3rd row—knit 1, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 2 *.

4th row—knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 2 *.

5th row—knit 1, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 2 *.

6th row—knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 2 *.

7th row—knit 1, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 2 *.

8th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 2, over, knit 2, over, knit 1, purl 4, knit 2 *.

9th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit 4, purl 3, knit 2 *.

10th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, over, knit 1, over, knit 6, purl 2, knit 2 *.

11th row—knit 1, purl 1, knit 8, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, purl 1, knit 2 *.

12th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2 stitches (that is, first knit off the second stitch plain and then the first), knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

13th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 8, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, knit 8, purl 3, knit 2 *.

14th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 4, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 4, purl 4, knit 2 *.

15th row—knit 1, purl 5, knit 6, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 6, purl 5, knit 2 *.

16th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

17th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 2 *.

18th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

19th row—knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 3, knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit 4, purl 3, knit 9, purl 1, knit 2 *.

20th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, over, knit 1, over, knit 6, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

21st row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 1, knit 8, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, purl 1, knit 7, purl 3, knit 2 *.

22nd row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, over, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

23rd row—knit 1, purl 5, knit 3, purl 3, knit 7, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, knit 7, purl 3, knit 5, purl 5, knit 2 *.

24th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

25th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 8, purl 5, knit 5, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 5, purl 5, knit 5, purl 3, knit 2 *.

26th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

27th round—knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 9, purl 1, knit 2 *.

Finish the square with several rows of purl and a chain.

PLAIN PATENT KNITTING, OR BRIOCHE PATTERN (fig. 380).—This easy and extremely elastic stitch is used for all sorts of articles of clothing, and is worked in two rows.



Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3, with 4 extra for the edge.

1st row—slip 1, knit 1, * over, put the needle into the next stitch, as if to purl it, slip the stitch from the left needle to the right, knit 1, repeat from *, and finish with 2 plain.

2nd row—begin with 1 chain, knit 1, knit the slipped stitch and the over together, over, slip the single stitch that remains, from the left needle to the right. When the knitting is round, you purl and knit the intake alternately.

DOUBLE PATENT KNITTING (fig. 381).—Begin on the wrong side.



1st row—like the 1st row of fig. 380.

2nd row—knit all the stitches, pass the over by putting the needle into it from right to left.

3rd row—like the second row of fig. 380. Now, it is only the second and third row that should alternate.

Patent knitting has a charming effect, done in two colours, by working them alternately backwards and forwards.

PLAITED STITCH (fig. 382).—This kind of stitch is worked in stripes, which, for scarves, counterpanes, etc., are generally joined together with stripes of plain knitting. For counterpanes, the lower numbers of D.M.C cottons are most suitable, for smaller articles the higher numbers. Plaited stitch is formed by crossing the stitches, that is, by knitting the second stitch on the left needle to begin with, and then the first stitch.



If you cross two or more stitches in a few successive rows without slipping them, the stitches will be seen by degrees, to form a plait, as shown in fig. 382.

1st row—purl 4, cast on 3 stitches on to an auxiliary needle, and leave it hanging on the inside of the work; knit 3 and then knit the 3 stitches on the extra needle, purl 4.

Then follow 5 rows, in which you purl all the purled stitches and knit all the plain ones. After which 5 rows you repeat from the beginning.

TURKISH STITCH (fig. 383).—1st row—slip 1, knit 1, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, and so on to the 2 last stitches, which you knit plain.



2nd row—slip the 1st, knit the 2nd and the 3rd plain, the latter having been formed by the last over on the 1st needle; 1 over, 1 intake with the stitch and the over, 1 over, 1 intake and so on.

TURKISH STITCH WITH BEADS (fig. 384).—String the beads on the thread before you begin to knit. When you only use one kind of bead, thread a needle with your knitting cotton and run it through the thread on which the beads are strung.

When you use several kinds, you must count and thread them on in the required order. Beaded knitting is little in request now, excepting for tobacco pouches and purses; for which you should use Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 35, in any colour, and small beads.



For close beaded knitting, plain stitch is the best. Run the beads down singly at each stitch. The beads will fall on the reverse side of the work so that in knitting with beads, remember that the reverse side will be the right side.

To work fig. 384, which represents the same stitch as fig. 383, you run down 2 or sometimes 3 beads before knitting each stitch.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF COTTON (fig. 385).—A variety of pretty things, such as open-work stockings, shawls, curtains etc. can be made in this pattern, worked with two sizes of thread. To give it its full effect it ought to be knitted with coarse needles, Nos. 10, 11, or 12.

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Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 8. Take the coarse thread to begin with.

1st and 2nd row—purl.

3rd row—purl 5, 2 overs, purl 5.

4th row—with the fine thread: over, knit 2 together, slip the next stitch of the previous row, drop the double over, slip the next stitch, 1 over, knit 2 together.

5th row—over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, and so on.

6th row—like the last. See that the 2 slipped stitches, in the coarse thread, always come on the right side of the work.

7th row—with the coarse thread: purl 4, purl the 2 slipped stitches of the 3rd row together, then repeat from the 1st row.

See that in the 3rd row the 2 overs come between the stitches formed by the 2 stitches that were formed by the 1st over, and the 2 stitches of the 6th row, that were knitted together.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF THREAD (fig. 386).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 4.



1st row—with coarse thread: purl.

2nd row—plain.

3rd row—with fine thread: over, 1 intake, knit 2.

4th row—plain.

5th row—knit 1, over, 1 intake, knit 1.

6th row—plain.

7th row—knit 2, over, 1 intake.

8th row—plain.

9th and 10th row—with the coarse thread: purl.

11th row—plain.

12th row—with the fine thread: over, knit 2 together.

13th row—plain.

14th row—purl. Then repeat from the 1st row.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH DROPPED STITCHES (fig. 387).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 9.



1st row—over, slip 3, knit 1, 2 overs, knit 3, 2 overs, knit 1.

2nd row—knit 3, slip the next, drop the 2 overs, knit 4, turn the work, purl 4, turn the work, knit 4, drop the 2 overs, slip the next stitch.

3rd row—over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, drop the first of the 4 stitches, knit first the stitch that follows the second double over, then the 4 others plain, and lastly, take up the dropped stitch and knit it plain on the right side of the work.

4th row—knit plain.

5th row—over, slip 3, over, knit 6.

6th row—knit plain, and repeat from the 1st row.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 388).—This pattern may be worked with any one of the D.M.C cottons recommended for fig. 387, but in the case of anything that is not wearing apparel, Fil a pointer D.M.C will be found more suitable. Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 18.



1st row—over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 4, knit 2 together, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3.

Each row marked by an even number is to be knitted plain throughout.

3rd row—knit 1, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2, knit 2 together, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1.

5th row—knit 2, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 5, over, knit 2 together.

7th row—knit 3, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2.

9th row—knit 4, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 2.

11th row—knit 5, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 6.

13th row—knit 7, over, knit 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5.

Repeat from the beginning.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 389).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 9.

1st row—2 overs, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5, knit 2 together.

2nd row—2 overs, slip the first over on to the right needle, knit the second over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 3, knit 2 together.

3rd row—2 overs, slip the overs of the two first rows on to the right needle, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together.

4th row—drop the overs of the 3 first rows and knit 8 double stitches, that is, knit 1 stitch on the over, slip it on to the left needle and knit it again.

These 8 stitches finished, make 2 overs, and slip 3, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over. Repeat from the beginning.

Each time you repeat the 4th row, make double stitches on 4 overs, that is, on 4 threads.



KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 390).—This pattern is suitable for children's braces. For Coton a repriser D.M.C Nos. 6 to 20, which is the best for the purpose, you will require fine bone needles.

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 4.

1st row—over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2.

2nd row—knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1.

3rd row—knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over.

4th row—slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2, over.

5th row—knit 2 together, over, knit 2.

6th row—knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1.

7th row—knit 2 together, over, knit 2.

8th row—knit 2, knit 2 together, over.

Repeat from the beginning.



KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 391).—The patterns shown in figs. 391 and 392, are more particularly useful for comforters, shawls, hoods and the like. The needles, which may be either of bone or steel must match the cotton in size; steel needles are the best for any thing finer than No. 16, of D.M.C Coton a tricoter.



Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3.

1st row—over, slip 1 stitch on to the right needle, knit the 2 next stitches, and draw the first stitch over them.

2nd row and 4th row—knit plain.

3rd row—like the first, but note, that the stitch that was the third in the first row, will be the first here.

Repeat from the beginning.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 392).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3.



1st row—over, knit the 2 first together, draw the 3rd stitch through the stitch formed by the intake and knit it off plain, then knit the stitch that was pulled over it.

2nd and 4th row—knit plain.

3rd row—like the first; the third stitch here is the same that was drawn through the third stitch in the first row.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 393).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 14.



1st row—over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 3, knit 3 together, purl 3, knit 2.

2nd row—knit 5, purl 7, knit 2.

3rd row—over, knit 3, over, knit 2, purl 2, knit 3 together, purl 2, knit 2.

4th row—knit 7, purl 5, knit 2.

5th row—over, knit 5, over, knit 2, purl 1, knit 3 together, purl 1, knit 2.

6th row—knit 9, purl 3, knit 2.

7th row—over, knit 7, over, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2.

8th row—knit 11, purl 1, knit 1.

Repeat from the beginning but in the reverse order, that is, purling the knitted stitches and knitting the purled.

KNITTED LACE (fig. 394).—Knitted lace looks best, made of a smooth, silky thread which shows up the pattern better than any other material. As a knitted edging makes a very pretty finish to almost any kind of knitted article, we give a selection of some of the easiest and most effective patterns that we consider suitable for the purpose.

]

Cast on 8 stitches.

1st needle—1 chain, knit 2, over, knit 2 together, knit 2, 2 overs, knit 2.

2nd needle—knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

3rd needle—1 chain, knit 2, over, knit 2 together, knit 6.

4th needle—2 chain, knit 5, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

Repeat from the first needle.

KNITTED LACE (fig. 395).—Cast on 10 stitches.

1st needle—knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 3, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

2nd needle—1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.

3rd needle—knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 4, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

4th needle—1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.

5th needle—knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 5, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

6th needle—1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.

7th needle—knit 10, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

8th needle—1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 8.

9th needle—4 chain, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 3, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

Repeat from the second needle.

KNITTED LACE (fig. 396).—Cast on 13 stitches.

]

1st needle—1 chain, purl 1, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

2nd needle—1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

3rd needle—1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

4th needle—1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

5th needle—1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

6th needle—1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

7th needle—1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

8th needle—1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

9th needle—1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

10th needle—8 chain, knit 10, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

Repeat from the first needle.

]

KNITTED LACE (fig. 397).—Cast on 11 stitches.

]

1st needle—1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, 1 chain.

The 2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th, 14th, and 16th needle, purled.

3rd needle—1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, 1 chain.

5th needle—1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, 1 chain.

7th needle—1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 7, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, 1 chain.

9th needle—1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 3, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, 1 chain.

11th needle—1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, 1 chain.

13th needle—1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 3 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, 1 chain.

15th needle—1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, 1 chain.

Repeat from the first needle.

ROSE FOR KNITTING (fig. 398).—Repeat all the directions, 8 ending with the sign *, 7 times.

Cast on 8 stitches, on to 4 needles, two on each; close the ring.

2nd round—8 times: over, knit 1.

The 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, 15th, 17th, 19th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th round, knit plain.

4th round—over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind *.

6th round—over, knit 4, over, knit 1 from behind *.

8th round—over, knit 7, over, knit 1 from behind *.

10th round—over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 *.

12th round—over, knit 2 together, over, knit 3 *.

14th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5 *.

16th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 7 *.

18th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 9 *.

20th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 11 *.

22nd round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 13 *.

24th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 15 *.

26th round—over, knit 3, over, knit 5, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5 *.

]

27th round—knit 11, purl 1, knit 6 *.

28th round—over, knit 5, over, knit 4, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 4 *.

29th round—knit 12, purl 1, knit 5 *.

30th round—over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 3 *.

31st round—knit 13, purl 1, knit 4 *.

32nd round—over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 2, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 *.

33rd round—knit 14, purl 1, knit 3.

34th round—over, knit 11, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 *.

35th round—knit 15, purl 1, knit 2.

36th round—over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over *.

37th round—knit 16, purl 1, knit 1.

38th round—over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 2, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over *.

39th, 41st and 43rd round—knit plain.

40th round—over, knit 4, knit 2 together, over, knit 5, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 4, over, knit 1.

42nd round—knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 *.

44th round—knit 2, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3 *.

Finish with three purled rounds.

KNITTED EDGING (fig. 399).—Cast on 43 stitches.

1st needle, make a chain of 2 stitches, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1 from behind, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

]

2nd needle—1 chain, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 14, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

3rd needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

4th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 4, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

5th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

6th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 16, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

7th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 5, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

8th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 17, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

9th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

10th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 18, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

11th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

12th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 4, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 19, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

13th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1, from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

14th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 18, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

15th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

16th needle—like the 8th.

17th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

18th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 16, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

19th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

20th needle—like the 4th.

21st needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

22nd needle—slip 1; knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 14, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

23rd needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 5, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

24th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 4, purl 1 from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 13, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

Repeat from the first needle.

FOOTNOTES:

[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.



Crochet Work.

Crochet work, so called from the hook, French croche or croc, with which it is done, is not only one of the easiest but in comparison with the cost and labour, one of the most effective kinds of fancy-work. It is also one of the most useful, as it can be applied to the domestic requirements of every-day life, to wearing apparel, house-linen and upholstery; and we are sure that the patterns contained in this chapter, which have in addition to their other merits that of novelty, will meet with a favorable reception.

Hooks, or needles, as they are generally called, made of wood, bone or tortoise-shell are used for all the heavier kinds of crochet work in thick wool or cotton, and steel ones for the finer kinds. The Tunisian crochet is done with a long straight hook, which is made all in one piece. The points should be well polished inside and not too sharp, the backs slightly curved, and the handles, whether of bone, steel or wood, so light as not to tire the hand. Those represented here, we consider the best, as regards shape. As it is most essential that the needle should be suited to the cotton in size, we subjoin a comparative table of the numbers of the D.M.C threads and cottons and of the different needles.



TABLE OF THE APPROXIMATE RELATION OF THE D.M.C THREADS AND COTTONS TO THE NUMBERS OF THE CROCHET NEEDLES.

-+ Numbers of the crochet needles 9 10 11 12 13 14 16 18 -+ + + -+ + + -+ -+ - Numbers of the cottons No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. -+ + + -+ + + -+ -+ -+ Coton pour crochet - 6 8-10 12-14 16-20 24-40 - - Coton a tricoter 6 8 10-12 14-16 18-25 25-40 50 - Fil a pointer 10 15 20-30 - - - - - Cordonnet 6 fils 1-11/2 2-21/2 3-4 10-15 20-30 40-60 70-90 100-150 Fil d'Alsace - - - - 30 36-50 60-90 100-150 Fil a dentelle - - - - 25 30-50 60-90 100-150 -+

EXPLANATION OF THE SIGNS *.—In crochet, as in knitting, you frequently have to repeat the same series of stitches. Such repetitions will be indicated, by the signs *, **, ***, etc., as the case may be.

CROCHET STITCHES.—In point of fact, there is only one, because all crochet work consists of loops made by means of the hook or needle, and connected together by being drawn the one through the other.

Crochet work may however, be divided into two kinds, German crochet, and Victoria or Tunisian crochet; the latter is known also under the name of tricot-crochet.

In German crochet there are eight different kinds of stitches: (1) chain stitch, (2) single stitch, (3) plain stitch, (4) treble stitch, (5) knot stitch, (6) bullion stitch, (7) cluster or scale stitch, (8) double stitch.

The rows are worked, according to the kind of stitch, either to and fro, or all from one end. In the former case, the work has to be turned at the end of each row, and the subsequent row begun with 1, 2 or 3 chain stitches to prevent the contraction of the outside edge.

When the rows are all worked one way, the thread must be fastened on afresh each time, which is done by putting the needle into the first chain stitch of the preceding row, drawing the thread through it so as to form a loop, and making one or more chain stitches according to the height required.

At the end of each row, cut the thread and draw the end through the last loop; in this manner all crochet work is finished off. Some crochet workers make a few extra chain stitches with the ends of the thread at the beginning and end of each row, or fasten them off with a few stitches on the wrong side.

They can also, when the occasion requires, be formed into a fringe or tassels as a finish to the work.

POSITION OF THE HANDS AND EXPLANATION OF (1) CHAIN STITCH (fig. 403).—Take the thread in the left hand between the finger and thumb, hold the needle between the thumb and first finger of the right hand, letting it rest on the second finger, in the same manner in which you hold your pen, and put it into the loop, which you hold between the finger and thumb of the left hand. Take up the thread, lying on your finger, with the needle and make your first stitch as you do in knitting, tightening the loop just enough to leave an easy passage through it for the needle. The end of the thread must be held by the thumb and forefinger. The next stitches are made by taking up the thread with the needle and drawing it through the loop. The throwing of the thread round the needle by a jerk of the wrist is called an 'over'.



(2) SINGLE STITCH (fig. 404).—Put the needle in from the right side of the work, into the uppermost loop of the preceding row, take up the thread on the needle and draw it through both loops.



(3) PLAIN STITCH (fig. 405).—Put the needle through, as in fig. 404, from the right side to the wrong, under the upper side, either of a chain, or of a stitch of the preceding row, draw the thread through it in a loop, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through both loops on the needle. By making the rows of plain stitches follow each other in different ways, a great variety of stitches can be produced, as the illustrations and written instructions here given will show.



ROSE STITCH (fig. 406).—This consists of rows of plain stitches, worked backwards and forwards. Insert the needle from the right side, under both the horizontal loops of the preceding row.



RUSSIAN STITCH (fig. 407).—This is worked like the foregoing, only that all the rows have to be begun from the same end, and the thread has to be cut off at the end of each row.



RIBBED STITCH (fig. 408).—Worked backwards and forwards, the hook being passed through the back part only of the stitches of the preceding row.



CHAIN STITCH.—Worked like fig. 408, but on one side only.

PIQUE STITCH.—This stitch also is only worked on one side. Put the needle in under one of the vertical threads of a stitch and complete the plain stitch. This is a stitch that looks very well on the wrong side; the bars of the loop lie quite close together, which makes it particularly suitable for unlined articles of clothing. It requires a large-sized needle to do this stitch well, especially if the material be a heavy one.

SLANTING STITCH (fig. 409).—Worked entirely on the right side. Take up the back thread of a stitch in the preceding row, take hold of the crochet thread without turning it round the needle and draw it through in a loop, and then finish the stitch like a plain stitch.



CROSSED STITCH.—The name which is given to the preceding stitch when both the threads of the stitches in the row before, are taken up together, instead of the back one only.

RUSSIAN CROSSED STITCH (fig. 410).—To work this stitch which runs in slanting lines, put the needle in between the vertical threads of the stitches and underneath the two horizontal ones.



COUNTERPANE STITCH (fig. 411).—Counterpanes can be made in a less close stitch than those just described.



To produce a soft and elastic fabric turn the thread round the needle and insert it under both the horizontal threads of a loop, take up the thread without turning it round the needle, draw it through in a loop, make an over, and draw the thread through all the three loops, that you have on the needle.

KNOTTED STITCH (fig. 412).—This stitch likewise is composed of plain stitches, which, however differ in a slight degree from those we have described hitherto.



Make an over, put the needle through the two horizontal threads of the stitch below, make another over and draw it back through the two loops and the first over, make another over, and draw the thread through the last two loops.

LOOP STITCH (fig. 413).—Worked as follows: when you have put the needle into the loop of a stitch below, carry the thread, downwards from above, round a stripe of cardboard or a flat wooden ruler, then finish the stitch in the usual way. These long loops, each about 2 c/m. in length, can also be made over the forefinger and held fast by the thumb as you work, but it is more difficult to make them regular in this way.

Each row of long stitches is followed by a row of plain stitches. The side, where the long loops lie, becomes the right side. If you wish this stitch to be very thick and handsome, wind the thread three times round the ruler, or finger, and secure it with a plain stitch; in this case, you should make one plain stitch between every two clusters. A loose, fleecy thread is generally used for this stitch, and for washing articles more especially, we recommend Coton a repriser D.M.C.



PLAIN STITCHES FOR A CHAIN (fig. 414).—Begin with two chain stitches, put the needle in between the two threads of the first chain stitch, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through in a loop, turn it round again and draw it through the two loops; then, put the needle into the left part of the stitch that was just made, turn the thread round the needle, draw it through the two loops and so on, to the end.



A chain of this kind makes a very good substitute for mignardise when that can not be got of the right size and colour for the required purpose.

(4) TREBLES.—Trebles are little columns, or bars made of loops or stitches. They can be worked, like all other crochet, either to and fro, or all one way. There are different kinds of trebles; half or short trebles, trebles, double trebles, called also 'long stitch', and quadruple and quintuple trebles, called 'extra long stitch', connected trebles and crossed trebles.

HALF TREBLES (fig. 415).—Turn the cotton round the needle from behind, put the needle in between the trebles of the preceding row, or into one edge of a chain stitch; make an over, bring the needle forward again with the thread, make another over and draw the needle through all three loops.



TREBLES (figs. 416 and 417).—Begin, as for the half treble, by turning the thread round the needle, and putting it in under one edge of the stitch beneath, then take up the thread on the needle and bring it through two of the loops, take it up again, and draw it through the two remaining loops.



In fig. 417, we have trebles made in the same manner as fig. 416, only that instead of putting the needle under one edge of the stitch beneath, you put it under both, and between the trebles of the last row.



DOUBLE TREBLES OR 'LONG STITCH' (fig. 418).—Turn the thread twice round the needle, put it into a stitch of the work and bring the thread through in a loop, then take up the thread on the needle and bring it through two of the loops, three times in succession.



TRIPLE AND QUADRUPLE TREBLES OR 'EXTRA LONG STITCH' (fig. 419).—For a triple treble, twist the cotton three times round the needle, for a quadruple one, four times, then form the treble in the usual way by bringing the needle through two of the loops at a time. To make a series of trebles, of gradually increasing length, bring the needle, at every other treble, through the last three loops, so that before making a triple treble you will have to make columns, respectively, 1 treble, 11/2 treble, 2 trebles and 21/2 trebles long. Columns like these, of different lengths, are often required in crochet work, for leaves and scalloped edgings.

CONNECTED TREBLES (fig. 420).—Trebles, connected together, can be worked to and fro, and take the place of plain stitches. Begin with a chain, then make a treble of the required height, form as many loops as you made overs for the treble, take up the upper thread of the stitch nearest the treble, turn the thread round the needle, bring it back to the right side and draw the needle through the trebles, two at a time.



CROSSED TREBLES (figs. 421 and 422).—Trebles of this sort produce an open stitch, which is often used for the footing of lace, or for an insertion. Make a foundation of chain, or other stitches, and proceed as follows: 3 chain, miss 2 stitches of the row beneath, make 1 treble in the third stitch, 5 chain, 1 over, put the needle in between the loops of the connected trebles and finish with a treble. Then make a double over, put the needle into the next loop of the preceding row, make another over, draw the needle through the loops, make another over and join the two next loops. This leaves 3 loops on the needle. Make an over, put the needle into the third stitch of the row beneath, make an over, and bring the needle back to the right side.



Join the 5 loops on the needle together, 2 and 2, make 2 chain, 1 over, put the needle into the upper parts of the connected trebles and finish with a treble, and so on.

These trebles also can be lengthened if necessary, but in that case, the width of the crossed treble must correspond with the height. Generally speaking you make the trebles over the same number of stitches as you made overs on the needle, which should always be an even number.

TREBLES FOR A CHAIN.—A quicker way of making a wide footing for a crochet lace is to make the trebles in the following manner.

Make 4 chain stitches, 2 overs, put the needle into the first of the 4 chain, 1 over, draw the thread through the stitch *, 1 over, draw the thread through the next 2 loops and repeat twice from * = ** 2 overs, put the needle into the left bottom part of the treble, close the treble as before and repeat from **.

(5) KNOT STITCH (fig. 423).—This stitch which is composed of several loops forming a tuft, can only be worked from one side, consequently all one way. It looks best in a coarse material to show the interlacing of the threads.

Enter the needle through the two loops of the stitches of the bottom row, turn the thread round the needle, but away from you towards the back; bring it forward to the right side, put the needle again through one of the bottom stitches, make another over like the first and draw the needle through all the bars at once.



(6) BULLION STITCH (figs. 424 and 425).—For bullion stitch, select a needle, a little thicker towards the handle, and finer than you would use for any other crochet stitch.



Begin by making a chain of very loose stitches, then wind the thread several times, very evenly, round the needle. Insert the needle into a loop of the chain, make a single over, and draw it with the last over upon it, through all the other overs.

Trebles in bullion stitch, fig. 425, are worked in just the same manner, only that you have to turn the thread, at least 10 or 12 times round the needle and draw it through all the overs at once. To facilitate the passage of the needle, keep the overs in their place with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand.

Bullion stitch can only be worked with wool or a very fleecy thread, such as Coton a repriser D.M.C,[A] but trebles in bullion stitch can be worked in any of the D.M.C threads and cottons.

(7) CLUSTER STITCH (fig. 426).—Generally used as an insertion between rows of plain crochet.



Put the needle under one stitch of the preceding row, make an over, draw the thread through in a loop, make another over, put the needle in again under the same stitch, bring it back, make a third over, and pass a third time under the same stitch; bring the needle back, make a fourth over and pass the needle through all the loops that are upon it.

Then, after making a chain stitch, begin the same stitch over again, placing it in the second stitch of the lower row.

Cluster stitch may also be finished off by retaining the two last loops on the needle, making an over, and ending with a plain stitch.

(8) DOUBLE STITCH (fig. 427).—A rather coarse thread, such as Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10, or Fil a pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30[A] is better for this stitch than a loose fleecy thread which is apt to render it indistinct. Take up a loop right and left of a stitch of the preceding row, so that counting the loop of the last stitch, you have 3 loops on the needle, make an over and draw it through the 3 loops. Then take up a loop again by the side of the one you made on the left, and which now lies on the right. Take 2 loops in the next stitch, make an over and draw it through all the loops.



RAISED STITCH (fig. 428).—All the stitches that come under this heading require a foundation of a few plain rows for the raised trebles. In fig. 428, you will observe that the fourth stitch in the fourth row is a double treble, connected with a loop of the fourth stitch of the first row.



Miss the stitch of the preceding row, which is hidden under the treble, make 3 plain stitches, 1 double treble, and so on.

Having finished this row, turn the work and make a plain row. In the next row begin with 4 plain stitches, then make 1 double treble between the 3 stitches that are between the first trebles, 3 plain stitches, 2 double trebles and so on.

In the 8th row of plain stitches, the trebles must be placed in the same order as in the 4th.

RAISED STITCH WITH CROSSED TREBLES (fig. 429).—Begin, as in fig. 428, by 3 rows of plain stitches. The 4th row begins with 2 plain stitches followed by: * 1 double treble joined to the upper part of the 1st stitch of the 1st row; keep the 2 last loops of this treble on the needle; make a double over for the next treble, pass the needle through the fourth stitch of the first row, make an over, turn the thread round the needle, bring it back, finish the treble all but the last 3 loops, which you crochet together. Miss the stitch behind the treble, make 3 plain stitches and repeat from *.



Then turn the work, make one plain row, and turn the work back to the right side.

The second row of trebles begins with a plain stitch. The way in which the trebles are to be crossed is shewn in the illustration.

RAISED STITCH WITH DOTS (fig. 430).—After making 3 plain rows, begin the 4th with 3 plain stitches, and proceed as follows: * 6 trebles into the 4th plain stitch of the preceding row, leaving the last loop of each treble on the needle, so that altogether you have 7 loops upon it; then you turn the thread once round the needle and draw it through the loops; miss the stitch that is underneath the dot, make 3 plain stitches and repeat from *.



Then make 3 rows of plain stitches; in the 4th row, the 1st dot is made in the 4th stitch, so that the dots stand out in relief.

RAISED DOTS WITH TREBLES (fig. 431).—Turn the work after making 3 rows of plain stitches, make 3 stitches more in the 4th stitch of the 1st row, * 6 trebles, drop the last stitch of the 6th treble, put the needle into the stitch between the last plain stitch and the 1st treble, take the dropped loop of the last treble and draw it through the one on the needle; miss the stitch under the dot, make 5 plain stitches and repeat from *.



RAISED DOTS IN SLANTING LINES (fig. 432).—On the rows of stitches that have been previously prepared, make, for the 4th stitch of the 4th row, a cluster stitch, as in fig. 426, with 1 quadruple over and then 4 plain stitches, 1 cluster stitch and so on. The next row is plain; in the second you have to make 1 plain stitch more, and fasten the cluster stitches into the loops to the left of the second of the 3 covered rows. In this way you have to make each raised stitch, one stitch, in advance and to the left of the last, so that they run in slanting lines over the surface.



CLOSE SHELL STITCH (fig. 433).—This pretty stitch which can only be worked in rows, all one way, is more especially suitable for children's jackets and petticoats; it is easy, and has the merit of being quickly done. On a foundation of chain, or other stitches, make: 2 chain, 7 trebles on the 4th stitch, * 1 chain, 7 trebles on the 5th stitch of the last row and repeat from *.



2nd row—** 7 trebles on the chain stitch of the last row which connects 7 bars, 1 plain stitch on the 4th of the 7 trebles of the first row and repeat from **.

PICOTS.—The edges of most crochet work are ornamented with picots, or small points of different shapes, called severally close picots, chain picots and lace picots.

Close picots may be subdivided into, large and small, pointed, and rounded, picots with rounded leaves and picots with pointed leaves.

SMALL ROUNDED PICOTS.—These may either be made separately and then sewn on, or made at once, on to a crochet border. In the first case, begin with 3 chain, then coming back, make 1 plain stitch on the second and on the first chain stitch. In the second case make: 1 chain, take the needle out of the stitch and put it in from the right side, under both edges of the last stitch, take up the dropped stitch, bring it to the right side, * 3 chain; then returning: 1 plain stitch on each chain, draw the needle out, put it in from the right side into the second stitch of the row beneath, take up the loop, bring it back to the right side, and repeat from *.

LARGE ROUNDED PICOTS.—5 chain, miss 3, 1 treble on the 2nd and 1 treble on the 1st chain stitch.

When you want to attach these picots at once to an existing piece of work, drop the last loop and bring it back again with the needle from the wrong side to the right and miss 2 stitches, instead of one, as in the case of the small picots.

POINTED PICOTS.—Cast on 6 chain, then returning, and missing the 6th stitch: 1 single stitch, 1 plain stitch, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble.

PICOTS WITH ROUNDED LEAVES.—* 4 chain, and 3 trebles on the first stitch, and 1 single on the same stitch on which the trebles were, **, or 6 chain and repeat from * to **.

When these picots serve as a finish to a straight edge, make 2 single stitches in the preceding row instead of 2 chain.

PICOTS WITH POINTED LEAVES.—6 chain, on the first chain stitch: 3 double trebles, of which you retain the two last loops on the hook, 1 over, draw the thread through the 4 loops, 5 chain, 1 single on the stitch on which the trebles are.

CHAIN PICOTS.—For the small chain picots, make: 5 chain and 1 plain stitch on the first of these 5 stitches. For the large ones: 5 chain and 1 treble on the first stitch.

PICOTS IN BULLION STITCH (figs. 424 and 425).—5 chain, 1 treble in bullion stitch drawn up into a ring, and joined to the 5th chain stitch.



DROOPING PICOTS (fig. 434).—5 chain, drop the loop, put the needle into the first of the 5 chain, take up the dropped loop, and draw it through the stitch.



LACE PICOTS (figs. 435 and 436).—Fig. 435 represents picots formed of chain stitches, as follows: 2 chain, put the needle into the first, 1 over, bring the thread back to the front, 2 chain: * put the needle into the two loops, and at the same time, into the second loop and the first chain, draw the thread through in a loop, make 2 chain and repeat from *.

In order to make the picots more even and regular, it is advisable to form them over a coarse knitting needle or mesh.

Fig. 436 represents picots attached by plain stitches to the edge of a finished piece of work; this is done as follows: 1 plain stitch, draw out the loop to the proper length for a picot, and slip it on a mesh: put the needle into the horizontal parts of the last stitches, turn the thread round the needle, draw it through in a loop, and make 1 plain stitch on the next stitch and so on.



METHOD FOR COPYING TAPESTRY PATTERNS IN CROCHET WORK (figs. 437 and 438).—Printed cross stitch and embroidery patterns can very well be copied in crochet work especially when they are in two colours only, or rather, are drawn in one colour, on a plain ground.

The way in which such patterns are copied in crochet is by means of chain stitches and trebles, which, rising one above the other in rows, form little squares. For each square marked on the pattern, you must count, in the grounding, 1 treble and 2 chain stitches; in the solid parts, 3 trebles.

The squares formed by the chain stitches should always begin and end with a treble.

When, therefore, a solid square comes between empty or foundation squares, count 4 trebles for the solid square, because the last treble of the last empty square touches the third treble of the solid one.

Thus for 2 solid squares, side by side, count 7 trebles, and for 3 squares, 10. Embroidery patterns worked in several colours can be reproduced in crochet either by trebles and rows worked one way only, cutting off the thread at the end of each row, or by plain stitches, worked in rows to and fro.

When only three colours are used, pass two threads under the stitches; when more than two, leave those which are not in use, at the back of the work and only bring them to the front as they are wanted. The thread, you lay aside, takes at the back the place of the one in use. Of course, the threads not in use can only can be disposed of in this way when the work has a wrong side, otherwise they must be passed underneath the stitches. The colours should alternate in the order the pattern prescribes; moreover, the last stitch before you take another colour cannot be finished with the same thread, you must pass the new thread through the last loop and draw it up with that.



]

CROCHET WITH SOUTACHE OR LACET (BRAID) (figs. 439 and 440).—These are two patterns of crochet, worked with the ordinary crochet cottons and with Soutache or Lacet D.M.C, a material which has not been used for crochet work before.

Both patterns are worked entirely with trebles; in fig. 439, the red braid passes over and under 2 trebles; in fig. 440, it is brought, it will be observed, from the wrong side to the right after every 2 trebles, and passed between them, in such a manner as to form a slanting stitch between the rows of stitches.

CROCHET SQUARE (fig. 441).—Begin with 4 chain stitches, and work 1 single on the 1st chain, to make a round. Work, 1 chain and 2 plain on the next chain, 3 plain on each of the next 3 chain, 1 plain on the stitch on which the two first plain are worked.

Slip the next stitch, that is, put the needle in between the horizontal bars of the 1st plain stitch of the previous row, and draw the thread out without making a stitch.

Then make 1 chain and 2 plain on the slipped stitch.

After which, you make 3 plain on the second of the 3 plain that form the corner, and 1 plain on all the other stitches of the last row. The beginning and end of each row, are worked as described above.

Fig. 441 represents a square, worked in consecutive rows. In making a crochet square, the rows may end in the middle of a side.



When you use a stitch that has to be worked to and fro, you turn your work at the end of every row and work back along the stitches you have just made.



CROCHET HEXAGON (fig. 442).—Make a foundation chain of 6 stitches, join the round; 12 plain on the 6 chain; finish the row as indicated for the previous figure == turn the work == * 1 plain, 3 plain on the second plain of the last row; repeat 5 times from *. Finish the row with 1 single == turn the work == 2 plain, 3 plain on the second of the first 3 plain; 3 plain and so on. These hexagons can be made of any size.

COLOURED STAR WORKED INTO A LIGHT GROUND (fig. 443).—Begin with 3 chain, join the ring = 2 plain on each of the 3 chain; then for the foundation, 1 plain with the dark thread, and 1 with the light on each of the 6 plain.

In each subsequent row, make one dark stitch more, increasing regularly, that is, making 2 stitches on the last light stitch that comes before the dark ones.

Proceed in this manner until you have 6 or 8 dark stitches, in all and then begin to decrease in every row by one, until there is at last only one dark stitch remaining.

These stars are used in the making of purses, cap-crowns and mats for lamps, etc.



TUNISIAN CROCHET.—Tunisian crochet is also called crochet-knitting because, you have to cast on all the first row of stitches, as in knitting.

MATERIALS—Every kind of cotton, as well as wool and silk, can be used for Tunisian crochet: the stitches look equally well in all these materials, but for things that require frequent washing or cleaning, a good washing material should be selected, such as Coton a tricoter D.M.C and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C[A], both strong and suitable in all ways.

As we have already said, Tunisian crochet requires to be done with a long straight needle, with a knob at one end and it can only be worked on the right side.



PLAIN TUNISIAN CROCHET (fig. 444).—After making a foundation chain of the required length, begin the first, or loop row as it is called. Put the needle into the 2nd chain stitch, draw a loop through and so on, until you have taken up all the chain stitches on the needle. After having made the last stitch of the loop row, make 1 chain stitch and then pass to the second row that completes the stitch. Turn the thread round the needle, draw it through two loops, turn the thread round again, and again draw it through two loops, and so on to the end.



STRAIGHT PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH (fig. 445).—Worked thus: miss the first loop in the 1st row, take up the second, and come back to the first, so that the 2 loops are crossed. Work the second row in the same manner as the second row of the preceding figure.



DIAGONAL PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH (fig. 446).—Worked like the preceding, taking up first the second loop and then the first: the second row also, in the same way as before. In the third row, take up the first stitch, and draw the third through the second, so as to produce diagonal lines across the surface of the work.

OPEN TUNISIAN STITCH.—This is an easy kind of Tunisian crochet. The first row is worked as in fig. 444. In the row of plain stitches, you alternately join 2 and 3, or 3 and 4 loops of the preceding row together, and replace them by as many chain stitches.

DECREASING AND INCREASING IN TUNISIAN CROCHET (fig. 447). Our illustration shows how to decrease on both sides and by that means form scallops.



You miss a stitch alternately on the right and left. On the right you crochet the first two stitches together, and at the end of the row, the last two, and so on, to the end. You increase in the same order, first on the right and then on the left.

HAIRPIN CROCHET (figs. 448, 449, 450).—So called because it is worked on a kind of large steel hairpin or fork with two or more prongs. Wooden and nickel varieties of this implement, which are patented by Mme Besson, of Paris, are also used.

Very pretty laces, fringes, gimp headings and the like can be made in this kind of crochet work. It is often used in combination with ordinary crochet and plain and scalloped braids and gimps, or as a heading for fringes made of tufts and pendant balls. There are a great many stitches which can be worked in hairpin-crochet. We shall only describe those here that will best teach our readers how the work is done.

MATERIALS.—For washing laces, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C is the best; for furniture fringes, the lower numbers of Coton a tricoter D.M.C, and for producing the appearance of filoselle, the lower numbers of Coton a repriser D.M.C are to be taken.



STITCHES.—Begin by a chain stitch, made with an ordinary crochet needle, take the needle out of the loop, and insert the left prong of the fork upwards from below, holding the fork between the thumb and finger of the left hand. The thread should always be in front. Then put the thread over the right prong and the needle into the loop on the left prong, take up the thread, draw it through the loop, put the thread over the needle and draw it through the loop that is on the needle, twist the loop round the left prong, turn the needle round to the right (the thread will now be wound round the right prong); put the needle into the loop on the left prong, throw the thread over the needle, draw it through, tighten the loops and so on.

These stitches may be doubled, or you may make several trebles on each loop, or arrange the plain stitches in different ways.

]

HAIRPIN INSERTION (fig. 451).—Begin by making stripes with the fork, covering each thread with two plain stitches. Then join the stripes together by the loops, drawing the left loop over the right one and the right one over the left. When you come to the end of the stripes fasten off the last loops by a few stitches. To strengthen the edges, join two loops together by 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 plain and so on.

]

HAIRPIN LACE (fig. 452).—When, by making two half trebles in each loop, you have got the necessary length of hairpin crochet, join the loops two and two, by means of a coloured thread which makes a good contrast with the thread of which the hairpin crochet is made. Work 1 plain stitch joining 2 loops on the right, 2 chain, 1 plain joining the 2 loops on the left; then 2 chain and come back to the right, and so on, until you have taken up all the loops. This forms the zig-zag in the middle.

1st row—join 3 loops by: 1 plain, 5 chain.

2nd row—on the 5 chain stitches: 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 3 trebles, 1 picot, made with 5 chain (for the chain picots, see p. 237), 1 half-treble, 1 plain. The footing of this lace is made like the one in fig. 451.



HAIRPIN FRINGES (figs. 453, 454, 455, 456).—Fig. 453 is made with a fork composed of one branch and 3 or 4 rulers, round which the thread is wound in succession, so as to form loops of different lengths. You may use for this, either a single very coarse thread, or else several fine ones, used together as one.

The heading of the fringe is plain, and heavy tassels are fastened into the loops. The tassels are made as follows: take a thick skein of the same thread the fringe is made of, pass it through the loop, leaving just the length required for the tassel, at one end, thread a needle with the same thread and twist it round the skein, the right distance from the top to form the head of the tassel and then cut the ends even, at the bottom. As the loops are of different lengths, the tassels will hang in steps and the fuller and heavier they are, the handsomer the fringe will be.



COLOURS: Ecru and Jaune-Rouille 363, 368, or Gris-Tilleul 331 and Rouge-Cornouille 449 and 450, or three other shades.[A]]

Fig. 454 represents another pattern of fringe, the first part of which is made with the same fork as the preceding one. Instead however of winding the thread round the several prongs in succession, you pass it alternately round the two first and the fourth, thus making loops of two lengths only. Tassels of a length, suited to the purpose the fringe is intended for, depend from these loops and may be varied in the second row by balls made to issue from the middle, or by long meshes, which are made over the whole width of the fork and affixed to the loops.

Figs. 455 and 456 represent two pretty patterns of fringes made of ecru cotton with a strong twist. These are very suitable for washing articles, as the cotton balls wash perfectly.



The loops in fig. 455 are all of one length and a ball hangs from every third. In the last chapter but one, a minute description is given of the way in which these balls are made. The heading of the loops is formed by a row of chain stitches, varying in number from four to six, according to the size of the cotton. The edge is ornamented with little picots. The fringe, in fig. 456, consists of three long and three short loops alternately, which causes, the balls that are made to depend from them, to form two parallel lines.

If you join the loops of the heading together, three and three, you will have to make enough chain stitches to cover the space that is to be filled.

The picots are made with 6 chain stitches, you put the needle back into the fifth stitch after closing the picot, make 1 chain, 2 plain, in the preceding row, 1 picot and so on.

FRINGE MADE WITH LACET OR BRAID (fig. 457).—This is an easy fringe to make and a very effective trimming for table-cloths, curtains etc., which are embroidered on coarse stuffs.

Begin with a foundation chain, in coarse ecru twist, the light stitch in the middle of the heading of the fringe being also made of the same material.

In the next row, you use the twist and the braid together, as follows—with the twist = 1 chain stitch, put the needle into the first stitch of the foundation chain, take up the braid, draw it through, turn the twist round the needle, draw it through the braid and the chain stitch. To make the braid loops longer, they may be made over a wooden ruler. To the two rows of braid stitches, represented in the pattern, you may add as many other rows as you please. On the fringed side make: 4 plain, 3 chain, draw out one very long loop and fasten into it a cluster of lengths of braid from 10 to 12 c/m. long, and draw the loop tightly round it to secure the tassel; 3 plain on the chain stitches. Repeat from *.