[Footnote 53: Now in course of restoration.]

The north side of the Choir is somewhat hidden by the Lady Chapel, which stands parallel to it, although the latter is much shorter; but a better view may be had by going between them. An opportunity is also thus afforded of observing the original Norman windows of the triforium of the Transept.

The windows of the aisle are uniform in size and shape, those of the triforium are nearly similar, but all were originally lancet-shaped, but altered to their present form in the latter part of the fifteenth century. The aisle roof of the two western bays of Bishop Northwold's work (the six eastern bays) was perhaps originally as high as the other parts, but altered at a later period; the tracery of these windows on the north side remains, but on the south side there is a difference which should be noticed. The lighter style of architecture and the large windows of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries made the support of buttresses necessary, in this instance they are deep, and surmounted by crocketed pinnacles; on the sides of many of them are gargoyles, or water-spouts of grotesque figures; flying buttresses are sometimes used in addition, reaching from the side buttresses to the clerestory walls, thus forming an important addition to the support as well as to the external beauty of the fabric: of this the exterior of the Choir of Ely Cathedral is a splendid proof.

The east end of the Cathedral is one of the finest specimens extant of an Early English east front. It is divided into three stories; the lowest has three lancet windows of nearly equal height; the next tier has five windows of the same shape, side by side, the centre one being higher and those on the sides gradually lower; the third story, which is within the gable, contains three lancet windows, not seen in the Choir, but giving light to the space between the ceiling and the roof. There are several niches for statues, but no figures; and the spandrils of the window arches are relieved by quatrefoils and other ornaments. The gable point is adorned with an ornamented cross, which has been restored at the expense of Lady Mildred Hope; and a crocketed pinnacle at the south-east corner has been given by A.J.B. Beresford Hope, Esq. Rather more than a century ago this end was about two feet out of the perpendicular, but was skilfully restored by Mr. Essex, the architect.

The eastern faces of the aisles appear as wings to the end of the Choir, and are flanked with double buttresses at the angles, upon which are set larger pinnacles crocketed. The windows lighting the two chapels at the end of the aisles were probably inserted when the chapels were erected; that in the north aisle is set in the wall, while that in the south aisle projects beyond the wall nearly to the depth of the buttress.

The south side of the Choir is similar to the north, with the exception before mentioned—the two western bays of Bishop Northwold's work, in each of which the opening in the triforium is formed into two arches of a style differing from the adjoining portion of the building, but which have the appearance of originality. The walls of the triforium, both in the Choir and Nave were not originally so high as we now see them, but no doubt were heightened when the larger windows were inserted.

The south end of the Transept differs from the north in the arrangement of the windows; in the gable is a low Perpendicular window of seven lights, sunk within a deep recess; the north end has in the upper tier two large Perpendicular windows side by side. There is also a difference in the gable and pinnacles. Some corbels in the lower part of the wall would indicate the former existence of an adjoining structure but what it was we cannot undertake to say.

Considerable anxiety has been felt as to the stability of some portions of the south side, and it has been found necessary to underpin some of the buttresses of the Choir and the walls of the Transept with large slabs of Yorkshire stone. It has also been deemed desirable to circumscribe the two round towers of the south west Transept with iron bands.

The south entrance to the Cathedral is through a portion of the eastern side of the Cloisters. The arch of entrance however, does not harmonise with the other portions of the Transept, and was doubtless an insertion, probably at the same time as a similar one in the north Transept, and by the same architect. It passes through a beautiful Norman door-arch in the south wall of the Nave, as described in p. 41. Near this are the remains of an enriched arch, recently discovered when the wall was repaired; if it is in its original position it must have formed a communication from the Cloisters to that portion of the western aisle of the south Transept which now forms the Vergers' vestry.

The south side of the Nave is nearly similar to the north, but there is no corbel table under the embattled parapet of the aisle: the aisle windows have, with one exception, been restored to their original form; those in the second tier retain their altered shape; but those of the clerestory, as on the north side, are original.

The apsidal Chapel of St. Catharine, adjoining the south-west Transept, has been rebuilt in accordance with the original structure.

* * * * *

Dimensions of the Cathedral.

INTERIOR. Ft. In.

The Galilee, or Western Portico 42 0

The Tower 40 4

The Nave 208 0

Crossing the Octagon 71 5

The Choir 123 0

Retro-choir 35 10

The whole length, from west to east 520 7

The length of Transept from north to south (including the Octagon) 178 6

Breadth of the Nave with the Aisles 77 3

Breadth of the Transept with the Aisles 73 0

Breadth of the Choir with the Aisles 77 3

Height of the walls of the Nave 72 9

Height of the ceiling from the floor, at the east end of the Nave 86 2

Height of the Pillars which support the Dome and Lantern 62 0

Perpendicular height of the Dome, springing from the capitals of the pillars, to the aperture of the Lantern 32 0

Height of the Lantern itself, from its aperture on the Dome to its vaulted roof 48 0

The whole height from the floor to the centre of the Lantern 142 0

Height of the vaulted roof of the Choir 70 0

Clear diameter of the Octagon, from one pillar to the opposite 65 4

Clear diameter of the Lantern, within 30 0

Length of the Lady Chapel (now Trinity Church) 100 0

Breadth of the same 46 0

Height to its vaulted roof 60 0

EXTERIOR.

The whole length, from west to east 537 0

The length of the great Cross, or Transept, from north to south 190 0

Height of the four stone turrets of the western Tower 215 0

Height of the two Towers of the south-west Transept 120 0

Height of the roof over the Nave 104 0

Height of the Lantern over the Dome 170 7

Height of the eastern front, to the top of the Cross 112 0

Having finished our survey of this noble edifice, we will proceed to make a few observations on the remains of the monastery, which will form the subject of a separate chapter. In order to bring them all conveniently before the visitor we will retrace our steps for a short distance round the east end of the Cathedral, and commence with the buildings on the north side of the Lady Chapel.



The Monastic Buildings.

&c. &c.

We will commence our notice of these remains of former ages by observing that as they now, in a great measure, form private residences, they can only be seen by visitors externally; it will be sufficient, therefore, for us to point out the several localities, and state, as far as we are able, their original uses, and present appropriation.

On the north side of the Lady Chapel stands an old square tower, now used as a belfry for the parish of the Holy Trinity, but it is not certain for what purpose it was originally used. Adjoining this is a building recently erected on the site of a former one, comprising a practice-room and school-room for the Choristers, with a residence for the master; beyond this, eastward, is an arched gateway communicating with the public street: this was closed up for many years, but has lately been re-opened; over it is the muniment room of the Dean and Chapter. Next is a residence for one of the Vergers, and beyond that is another dwelling house; the next portion is in a dilapidated state, and at the present time is used as a mason's yard and workshop for carrying on the works in progress: these occupy the site of the ancient Sacristy. A little further in the same direction stands the residence of one of the prebendaries, on the site of the ancient Almonry; there are in this building some remains of Early English vaulting, and at the east end may be observed the remains of a triplet window of the same period; the middle window has been destroyed by the insertion of a modern window, now blocked up, but the stone work of the side windows can easily be traced.

We next proceed round the east end of the Cathedral to the south end of the Transept, a few yards south of which may be observed a range of Early English arches, each containing a double arch, which is again subdivided, but all have been long blocked up; this was a portion of what was called the "Dark Cloister." To the eastward of these is another range of arches with piers about twelve feet in height, some of which are comparatively perfect; these piers are alternately cylindrical and octagonal, the octagonal columns presenting alternately a side or an angle in front. The arches are profusely enriched with mouldings; the walls above were pierced with a row of small windows with semicircular heads. These piers and arches may be seen on both sides of the road-way, corresponding with each other like the nave of a church, and afford a good example of "highly refined Norman work." A beautiful arch at the end leads to another series, and beyond this, in one of the prebendal houses, is a vaulted room which seems to have been erected about the period of the transition from the Norman style to the Early English.

They form a church-like building, and by some historians have been described as the remains of the Conventual Church erected at the restoration of the monastery by Ethelwold, A.D. 970, and including the ruins of St. Etheldreda's own church, founded A.D. 673. This, if correct, would make it one of the oldest specimens of the Saxon style in the kingdom. This statement has been contradicted by others, and Professor Willis, who had devoted much attention to these buildings, stated that they are the remains of the Infirmary of the monastery, with a chapel attached, and erected many years subsequent to the period mentioned; the portion we have likened to the nave of a church—now affording an approach to several residences—was the body of the Infirmary; the portion east of the arch was no doubt the chapel, and the vaulted room spoken of, the chancel. This statement derives some confirmation from the existence, in a similar position, of the Infirmary at Peterborough, and at some other places. The style of architecture too denotes a period subsequent to the erection of the nave of the Cathedral.

The house on the north side, adjoining the chapel before mentioned, now a prebendal residence, appears to have undergone little alteration since its erection; the parapet, and the almost flat roof covered with lead, appear to be original. This was probably used by the master of the Infirmary as a residence, and a hall to entertain the aged and infirm separately from the sick monks, being near the chapel and the Infirmary. The next house westward, now the residence of a Minor Canon, is said to have been the "Painted Chamber," but to what use it was applied we are not able to say.

The residence on the south side of the Infirmary, opposite to the last mentioned, now the residence of a prebendary, stands on the site of the "Cellarer's Lodging"; and the next house, eastward, also a prebendal residence, on the site of the "Black Hostelry," or near it.

The Dormitory of the monks was generally a long narrow room, standing north and south, near the church, convenient for the monks' attendance on the nocturnal services; here it was situated near what has been pointed out as part of the "Dark Cloister," not far from the south end of the Transept, and probably the communication was by a passage leading to a winding stair still standing in the south-east angle of the Transept.

The Chapter House is believed to have stood between the north end of the Dormitory and the Transept, similar to Peterborough, having its entrance from the east side of the Cloisters; nothing however remains to shew its exact position; both Mr. Bentham and Mr. Millers describe it as having stood on the space now occupied by the Dean's flower garden, where are some remains of a building in the Norman style, but which has since been stated to have been the Monks' kitchen; but in consequence of the many alterations which have been made at different periods, the demolition and removal of some buildings, and the ruin of others, it is difficult to speak with certainty. The monastery was a large one, and the buildings numerous for the various requirements, of many of which no traces remain, nor is it known where they were situated.

The only part remaining of the Cloisters is the north-east angle, through one part of which is the south entrance to the Cathedral. The inner wall of the north side and part of the east side are yet standing, with the openings partially bricked up, but the roof is gone. These are not the original Cloisters, but occupy nearly the same position as the earlier ones.

The Refectory, according to Professor Willis and others, stood at the south side of the Cloisters, on part of the space now occupied by the Dean's garden, a portion of a very thick wall, in which are some Early English corbels, is still remaining.

Our attention will next be directed to the Deanery, sometime thought to have been the Refectory, but was more probably the Guest-hall for the entertainment of strangers and others visiting the monastery. It is a large building, standing like several others upon vaults, and appears to have been built in the latter part of the thirteenth century; it has, however, undergone considerable alterations at different times, and now presents but few remains of that period, although the walls, buttresses, and vaults bear strong characteristics of it. This formed the northern side of a small court, around which were buildings forming the residence of the priors of the monastery, of which also the next house, now the residence of a prebendary, formed a part; the vaulting of this is very ancient, probably in the early part of the Norman era, but the superstructure is of a later period. There is a fine fourteenth-century fire place in the house.



Adjoining this house, at the south-west corner, next the garden, stands a building generally known as "Prior Crauden's Chapel," having been founded by John de Crauden, prior of Ely (1321-1341), as a private chapel attached to his residence, and built under the direction of Alan de Walsingham, the skilful architect of the Octagon. It is most interesting for the rich remains of architectural beauty which it displays. "It is," says Mr. Rickman, "one of the most curious and valuable Decorated remains in the kingdom; its ornaments are of the best character, and well executed, and the whole design is of great excellence." It belongs to the Deanery, but was for many years used in connection with the adjoining house, having been converted into three rooms by floors inserted; these floors have been removed, and the chapel in some degree restored; some of the windows which had been closed have been re-opened, and the eastern one filled with stained glass, the gift of Mrs. Smart. It is now used as a private chapel for the Grammar School.

The Chapel stands upon a vault, the floor of which is nearly upon a level with the surrounding ground; the vault has a groined ceiling supported by plain columns, and the original entrance was directly under the west window of the Chapel, but is now on the north side. The entrance to the chapel is by a staircase which winds within the buttress at the north-west angle. The length is divided into four compartments by clustered columns, from the tops of which sprung the ribs of the vaulting. The first compartment is plain, and was probably the ante-chapel: the second is ornamented with a double niche, richly decorated with small columns, pinnacles, crockets, &c.; in the lower niche the wall is pierced for a small window; the upper one probably contained a figure: the third and fourth compartments have long pointed windows, separated into two lights by a mullion. The east end has ornamented niches in the angles, it projects a little beyond the compartments, forming a recess, in which is the large window, divided into five lights, with elaborate tracery. The floor is elevated at the east end for the altar, and is formed of mosaic tiles; upon the raised portion is represented the Fall of man, and the remainder is ornamented with various other figures and devices; some portions are nearly perfect, but the colouring is greatly faded. Some remains of fresco painting were discovered on the walls when the restorations were in progress, and probably the chapel had originally been richly embellished with colours and gilding, in the style of the period in which it was built.

We have now an opportunity of glancing at some of the other portions of the monastic buildings, which formerly extended from the Prior's Lodge to the gateway, but are now somewhat short of it, as a garden intervenes.

The first, adjoining the Deanery, formerly the Registry, but originally part of the residence of the former priors, was called "The Lodge," and contained the great hall, named "The Fair Hall," the high sharp-pointed windows of which still remain in the first story; from the corner of this hall a gallery or passage led to the prior's chapel just mentioned. This formed the western side of the small court before spoken of, around which the residence of the priors was built. This is now the residence of the Rev. R. Winkfield, Head Master of the Grammar School, and the adjoining house, formerly the school house, is used as a dormitory, &c. for the pupils. Next to this is the residence of the Rev. W.E. Dickson, Minor Canon and Precentor, which brings us to the end of this series of the buildings. These all stand upon vaults or crypts, which were probably used as cellars or store-houses, and the superstructure as lodgings for guests of the prior, being near his residence; these buildings formed the western side of the monastery, and were built about 1180, but raised and altered by Alan de Walsingham, about 1320.



This brings us in our progress to the great gate of the monastery, called "Ely Porta," or more frequently, the "Porter's Lodge." It is a large and massive pile, having square towers at the angles, and was begun by Prior Buckton shortly before his death in 1397, and probably finished by his successor, Walpol, as it is sometimes spoken of as "Walpol's Gate." On the eastern side the opening is a single arch of great span, but on the western side there are two, a large one—but smaller than that on the eastern side—for carriages, and a still smaller one for foot passengers. The north end of the building is occupied as the residence of the Porter, who is also a Verger of the Cathedral; the south end with the rooms above, including a large one over the archway, is used for the Cathedral Grammar School, or King's School, founded in 1541, by Henry VIII., and is under the control of the Dean and Chapter. The foundation is for twenty-four boys, who are elected without restriction as to birth or residence, and are entitled to some privileges in reduction of school fees. The school has lately been re-modelled by the Dean and Chapter, in order to bring it up to the requirements of the age, and extensive alterations have been made to provide accommodation for boarders.[54] The school is not restricted to the foundation boys, but is open to all who are prepared to accede to the terms, and is now in a flourishing condition.

[Footnote 54: We understand it is intended to make some further alterations, and to build a new "hostel," on a plot of ground nearly opposite the gateway on the western side, forming a block of buildings to include accommodation for sixty boys, with masters' and servants' offices, as well as the dormitories, studies, and day rooms for the boys.]

We will now cast our eyes over the Park, which was much improved by the exertions of Dean Peacock; it was formerly divided into several inclosures by walls or hedges, but is now in two pieces, separated by iron fencing, and has been planted in various parts with ornamental trees; a pathway runs round the south-eastern portion, and another across it, and by a pair of iron gates (closed at night) a communication is formed with a street at the lower part of the city. On the south side is an artificial mound generally called "Cherry Hill," the origin of which is uncertain; but it was probably occupied by a mill for the use of the monastery; Mr. Millers thought it once formed the site of a castle erected for the defence of the monastery, which in early times experienced some of the vicissitudes of war; it is covered with trees and shrubs, and a winding path leads to the top, where there is a kind of summer-house. A good view of the adjacent country may be had from the summit, particularly towards the east, south, and west.

From the foot of this hill, extending to some length westward, is a range of buildings used in part as stables and coach-houses, and partly as workshops and store-houses for stone and materials required for the repair of the Cathedral and buildings; this was the small grange within the precincts, a larger one stood more to the westward, outside the monastery.

We will pass through the gateway and examine its western front which remains nearly in its original state; there are some niches and canopies, and several shields but their bearings are nearly all obliterated. The gates are closed at night.

While here we may notice at a short distance to the left, at the south-west corner of the open space, the new Theological College, designed for candidates for Holy Orders desirous of religious preparation, theological instruction, and pastoral training; and is open to students who have graduated at one of the Universities: of which the Rev. Dr. Luckock, Canon of the Cathedral, is principal. The building is of red brick with stone dressings, and contains chapel, lecture room, studies and dormitories for the accommodation of twelve students, with the usual offices.

Our course will now take us northwards towards the Cathedral, outside the western boundary of the monastery, thus giving the opportunity of observing the other side of the buildings we noticed after Prior Crauden's chapel: that they are of great antiquity is evident by the flat Norman buttresses on part of the western wall; but they have at various times undergone considerable alterations which have done much to obliterate their original appearance, and alter the character of the buildings. We first pass the house occupied by the Rev. W.E. Dickson, then those occupied by the Rev. R. Winkfield, including the house standing a few feet in retreat, originally part of the prior's residence, which adjoins the western end of the Deanery; the remaining space to the south-west Transept being occupied as a private garden by the Dean. On our left are the gardens belonging to the Bishop's Palace; and this brings us to the west end of the Cathedral, from whence we started on our tour of observation.

The Cathedral is too much encumbered by buildings to allow us to take the whole of it into view from any one position; but several good points of view may be found at moderate distances, ranging from south-west to east, which will, we think, amply repay those who may have leisure and inclination to go a short distance to observe them.

* * * * *

Having endeavoured to point out, to the best of our ability, the objects most worthy of notice in the Cathedral, as well as others around it within the precincts of the ancient monastery, we will add a brief notice of a few other buildings which are without the precincts, but should not be passed without some observation.

The Bishop's Palace.

This is a large mansion consisting of a centre and two wings, nearly adjoining the west end of the Cathedral, being separated from it only by a public road. But little is known of a palace here prior to the time of Bishop Alcock, who erected the present wings with a noble hall or gallery about the end of the fifteenth century: his arms, and those of the see may be seen in the face of the eastern wing. The gallery adjoining the western wing was erected by Bishop Goodrich in the third year of the reign of Edward VI., whose arms appear in stone on the centre of the lower panels of the bay window; on the panel to the right of this are the arms of Bishop Goodrich, and on the left panel, the same arms impaling those of the see; on the left-hand splay panel is carved the "Duty towards God," and on the right-hand splay panel the "Duty towards our neighbour." The more modern part of the house next the garden is said to have been erected by Bishop Keene, but was perhaps only altered by him, as there was on the eastern side of the part projecting into the garden, a stone door arch apparently much older than this part of the house; and another on the eastern side near the chapel; this has been removed, and now forms the servants' entrance from "the Green."

The interior of the house has been much improved, and the chapel in the eastern wing fitted up with taste, the windows being filled with stained glass. The gardens are neat and kept in excellent order. There are in the Palace several portraits of bishops and others, also a curious painting called the "Tabula Eliensis" representing the forty knights who were quartered on the monastery by William I., each with his shield of arms, and a monk as his companion. There is also a picture 6 ft. 6 in. long and 2 ft. 2 in. high, representing the funeral of Bishop Cox, in 1581. Bishop Turton left by his will two pictures, to remain in the palace; and there is a good library belonging to the see.

Formerly the bishops of Ely had residences at several other places, viz., palaces at Somersham and Downham; Wisbech Castle, and the Manor-houses at Doddington, Fen Ditton, and other places in Cambridgeshire; and Hatfield, and Hadham, in Hertfordshire; there were ten manor-houses and places of residence belonging to the Bishop of Ely at the time of Bishop Barnet. The London residence of the bishops of Ely was formerly in Ely Place, Holborn, which was occupied successively by forty-one bishops, extending over a period of nearly five hundred years; it is now in Dover Street, Piccadilly, in a house built by Bishop Keene, on the site of Albemarle House and other messuages, which were purchased for the see in 1772.

The "Green" in front of the palace was formerly a piece of waste ground; a few years ago it was laid out and planted with shrubs, and fenced off with a neat iron railing, at the expense of Bishop Turton, reserving to the public the right of free admission from eight a.m., until an hour after sunset; this improvement has, we regret to say, through an unfortunate misunderstanding, been done away, and it now presents an appearance of desolation and neglect much to be deprecated. We hope something may be done in order to remedy this sad state, and render it more worthy of its position in front of one of the noblest Cathedrals in England, and of the residence of the chief pastor of a large and important diocese.

The house standing in a garden with iron gates, nearly opposite the bay window in the palace stands upon the site of the residence of the chaplains of an ancient chantry founded by Bishop Northwold, called "The Chantry on the Green."



St. Mary's Church.

This church will be found a short distance to the westward of the Palace, standing in a large grave-yard with a row of lime trees in front. It is a neat building having a Nave with aisles, a Chancel and a Tower surmounted by a spire at the west end. The Church is a mixture of the Transitional and Early English styles, but the Tower and Spire are in the Decorated style. It was built by Bishop Eustachius in the early part of the thirteenth century on the site of a former church. "It contains," says Mr. Millers, "some curious architectural remains, particularly the north and south[55] door arches, which are pointed and decorated with different sorts of Norman mouldings; but the columns have slender detached shafts, united under one capital wreathed with foliage, as in the Early English style. Of this mixture there is no other specimen at Ely, and I have not met with an account of such an one in any other place." "In the Tower of the Cathedral we have the Norman style with pointed arches; in the Galilee, built a very few years after, we have the Early English style; but each of these is perfectly and characteristically distinct: in the interval, between the erection of one and the other, the public taste had undergone a change. It seems as if the work before us had been erected in that interval, and that the architect was disposed to adopt the new style without quitting the old one."[56] The Galilee of the Cathedral was erected about 1215, and it is not improbable that this church was erected shortly before, and as it is stated during the episcopate of the same bishop.

[Footnote 55: This door was blocked up when the Church was repaired in 1829.]

[Footnote 56: Millers' Description of Ely Cathedral, p. 148, 149.]

The columns of the Nave are simple and cylindrical, the capitals are Norman, and nearly similar to some of those in what has been called "The Infirmary," but the high pointed arches which they support are of a shape usual in the age in which this church was built, and some of the mouldings are Early English. The windows in the aisles and clerestory are Perpendicular, probably inserted at a later period, when the church was repaired. The Chancel is Early English, with an inserted Perpendicular east window; there is a double sedile under one trefoil arch, and a double piscina in the south wall.

A chapel on the south side is also Early English; it has a triple lancet east window, and a west window of two lights with a quatrefoil in the head; there is here also a double piscina in the south wall. A portion of this chapel was partitioned off for use as a vestry, but is now thrown open to the church.

The church was repaired and pewed, and a gallery erected on the south side in 1829-30, but this gallery, with another at the west end erected many years before, have lately been removed, the tower arch opened, and the nave restored, the floor raised, and the passages and other portions laid with Staffordshire tiles; the nearly flat plastered ceiling is divided into compartments by moulded ribs of wood, and the panels painted in distemper, among the patterns of which may be seen the sacred monogram, the arms of the see and of the Dean and Chapter. The pews erected in 1829 have been removed and replaced by open seats of oak, free to all, and a new oaken pulpit resting on a pillar of stone, the gift of the Bishop, placed against the chancel arch on the south side. A new font, the gift of one friend, and an elegant brass lectern the gift of another, have assisted in the general improvement. A fine-toned organ, built by Bishop and Sons, removed from Trinity Church, Paddington, has been erected at the east end of the north aisle, on a site formerly occupied by a large faculty pew belonging to "Chantry House," alluded to in p. 112.

The chancel has been partially rebuilt and thoroughly restored, and fitted with appropriate seats in oak, at the cost of the Ecclesiastical Commissioners.

The church is warmed by hot water, and lighted by gas. A fine peal of eight bells hang in the Tower. There are no ancient monuments, but a few modern tablets on the walls record the deaths of some former residents of the parish; and a new and elegant memorial brass has been put up in the chancel to the Rev. Solomon Smith, M.A., Minor Canon of the Cathedral, and for forty years incumbent of the parish.

The restoration of the church, the purchase of the organ, the fittings, &c., has been effected by subscriptions at a cost of nearly L2500, but a further sum is still required to repair and restore the tower and spire, improve the church-yard, &c.

The living is a vicarage, in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter; the present incumbent is the Rev. John Franey, M.A. Minor Canon of the Cathedral.

The Grange.

The premises adjoining the church-yard on the west stand on part of the ground formerly occupied by "The Grange" of the monastery, and the house is stated to have been at one time the residence of the Protector, Cromwell. The "Sextry Barn," one of the largest in the county, perhaps in the kingdom, stood here, and is stated to have been 291 ft. 6 in. long, and 39 ft. 5 in. wide, inside; it was built about the middle of the thirteenth century, and taken down in 1842, and the space once occupied by the monastic "farm-yard" is now covered by modern buildings, part of which at least, are used for as good purposes; on one part excellent and commodious National Schools for both boys and girls have been erected, and on another a series of substantial and comfortable Almshouses for aged men and women, inhabitants of Ely.

St. John's Hospital.

The site of this hospital is a few hundred yards further west; the remains of it are very scanty, but sufficient to show that the buildings were of an early age, although not enough to enable us to give an opinion as to their form or extent; what is left has been converted into use as farm buildings, one portion near the dwelling house, and another a short distance from it. There were formerly two hospitals in Ely, this dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and another to St. Mary Magdelene, the site of which is now unknown. According to Mr. Bentham, the revenues of the two were united, and the communities associated by Bishop Northwold about A.D. 1240, by whose ordinance the united hospital was to consist of thirteen chaplains and brethren, who were to have a common refectory and dormitory, and to wear an uniform habit, and be under the immediate government of the Sacrist of Ely. It seems that this was not, like other hospitals of the kind, dissolved by Henry VIII., for it was held under the mastership of Edward Leedes, the second prebendary of the eighth stall, who was also chancellor of the diocese under Bishop Goodrich, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth; he was at the same time chaplain to Archbishop Parker, and Master of Clare Hall, Cambridge; he afterwards obtained from the queen a grant of the hospital, and with the consent of Bishop Cox, he surrendered the whole site and possession to his college; his grant to the college was confirmed by the Dean and Chapter in 1562, and the property is now in the hands of the Master, Fellows, and Scholars of Clare College, Cambridge.



APPENDIX I.

THE CATHEDRAL ORGAN.

The following brief account of this fine instrument, furnished by the Rev. the Precentor, may be interesting to many:—

At a very early period the Cathedral or Conventual Church contained an organ or organs: this clearly appears from records preserved among the muniments of the Chapter; and at the dissolution of the Abbey we read that there were "two pair of organs in the Quire, and one pair in the Lady Chapel." It is highly probable, from indications in the stone-work, that one, at least, of these Pre-Reformation organs was placed in the triforium of the present nave, on the north side. It is well known that the Quire at that period extended westward across the Octagon: the organ therefore was situated near the gates, and above the stalls of the ancient Quire, nearly as it is now in the modern Quire. The Great Rebellion swept away organs from Ely, as from all other English Cathedrals; and during this dreary period the Choral Service was suppressed and prohibited. After the Restoration, viz., about the year 1685, a new organ was erected by the celebrated Harris; and it is remarkable that this organ remained in daily use up to the year 1831, without material alteration, not even a swell having been added to the original great and choir. It is worthy of mention, that during the extensive repairs of the Cathedral, conducted by the able architect, Essex, about the middle of the last century, a proposition to place the organ at the eastern end of the Quire was seriously urged by him on the consideration of the Dean and Chapter. He alleged that the instrument would "conceal much cold unornamented wall!" The condition of Harris' organ had become dangerously crazy when Messrs. Elliot and Hill were employed to rebuild it, or rather to insert a new instrument in the old case. This they did with great ability and success, and the organ which comprised ten stops in the great, five in each of choir and swell, and one set of pedal pipes, was a fine specimen of the art as it was understood and practised about forty years ago. When the restorations were commenced which have resulted in the present splendid embellishment of the Cathedral, the organ-screen was removed; and in 1851 the organ was re-modelled and altered to the CC compass, enclosed in its costly and exquisite case of carved oak, and suspended from the triforium of the Choir, above the stalls on the north, or (at Ely) Decani side. Provision was made for an adequate pedal organ, lodged in the triforium gallery, where an admirable site was also secured for the swell-box: the choir organ is beneath the great, and behind it, in a picturesque stone tribune or loft, the organist was seated at the manuals. Three stops, viz. a manual Double of wood and metal, 16 feet tone; a metal Quint of 6 feet; and a Posaune of 8 feet; were added to the great organ, which then possessed a tone of great power and beauty.

By the liberality of the Chapter, the completion and great enlargement of the organ was effected in the year 1867. Messrs. Hill have introduced a new swell of 13 stops throughout, with a pedal organ of adequate dimensions. To this pedal organ the principal inhabitants of the city of Ely contributed the important addition of a Sub-base of 32 feet tone, at a cost of upwards of L80. The whole instrument has 40 sounding stops, and it will be seen from an inspection of the list that every stop, even to the clarionet, is complete and entire, extending through the full compass of its manual. The tone of the full organ, with swell coupled, is very grand. The reeds, like all the stops of this class manufactured by Messrs. Hill, are positively models of smoothness, equality, and power. The two 8 feet reeds of the great, and the 16 feet reed, with the Horn, of the swell, are specimens of which the builders may well be somewhat proud. All the compound stops are very brilliant. Equal temperament has been applied to the tuning.

GREAT ORGAN—CC to F in Alt.

Ft. Pipes. 1. Double Diapason, open metal to GG, 12 feet stopt wood below 16 54

2. Open Diapason, metal 8 54

3. Open Diapason, metal 8 54

4. Stopt Diapason, wood 8 54

5. Principal, metal 4 54

6. Harmonic Flute, metal (vice Quint) 4 54

7. Twelfth, metal 2-2/3 54

8. Fifteenth, metal 2 54

9. Sesquialtera, iii ranks, metal — 162

10. Mixture, iii ranks, metal — 162

11. Posaune, metal 8 54

12. Trumpet, metal 8 54

13. Clarion, metal 4 54 —- 918

SWELL ORGAN—CC to F in Alt.

Ft. Pipes. 1. Double Diapason, open metal to Gamut G, 6 feet, stopt wood below. 16 54

2. Open Diapason, metal 8 54

3. Salcional, metal 8 54

4. Stopt Diapason, wood 8 54

5. Principal, metal 4 54

6. Lieblich Flute, metal 4 54

7. Fifteenth, metal 2 54

8. Mixture, iv ranks 2 216

9. Double Trumpet, metal and wood 16 54

10. Horn, metal 8 54

11. Trumpet, metal 8 54

12. Oboe, metal 8 54

13. Clarion, metal 4 54 —- 864

CHOIR ORGAN—CC to F in Alt.

Ft. Pipes. 1. Open Diapason, metal to 6 feet, open wood below 8 54

2. Dulciana, metal 8 54

3. Stopt Diapason, wood 8 54

4. Principal, metal 4 54

5. Flute, wood 4 54

6. Gamba, metal 4 54

7. Clarionet, metal 8 54 —- 378

PEDAL ORGAN—CCC to E.

1. Sub-bass, wood 32 tone 29

2. Open wood 16 29

3. Open metal 16 29

4. Bourdon, wood 16 tone 29

5. Octave, metal 8 29

6. Mixture, iii ranks, metal 4 87

7. Trombone, wood 16 29 —- 261

COUPLERS.

1. Swell to Great.

2. Great to Pedal.

3. Ditto by the foot.

4. Choir to Pedal.

5. Swell to Pedal.

Six composition pedals, three to the Great, acting simultaneously on Pedal: three to Swell. Total number of Pipes, 2421.



APPENDIX II.

STATEMENT OF RESTORATIONS ACCOMPLISHED AND REQUIRED, AND OF SUMS EXPENDED THEREON.

The following extract from a Memorandum issued by the Dean in October, 1873, is appended, by permission, to show the progress of works done, and the amount expended; as well as of works required to complete the restorations.

The following Memorandum of Works accomplished or required, was issued by Dean Goodwin, January, 1866:—

"The time seems to be now come, when the completion of the great work of restoration, commenced under Dean Peacock and guided for many years by his care and judgment, may be looked upon as being within reach.

The works which have been hitherto accomplished may be enumerated as follows:—

1. The Choir restored and re-arranged.

2. Central Lantern restored (Peacock Memorial).

3. South-east Transept restored.

4. South-west Transept restored.

5. Roof of North Transept restored and painted. (The painting at the expense of tradesmen employed upon the Cathedral.)

6. The Nave ceiled and painted. (The painting by the late Mr. le Strange and Mr. Gambier Parry.)

7. Nave roof repaired and re-leaded.

8. St. Catherine's Chapel rebuilt.

9. Bishop Alcock's Chapel restored.

10. Galilee Porch re-paved.

11. The Western Tower opened, ceiled, (the ceiling painted by Mr. le Strange), re-roofed, strengthened, &c., (part of the expense borne by the late H.R. Evans, Esq., and his son, the present H.R. Evans, Esq.)

12. About seventy windows filled with painted glass.

The expense of the restoration of the Cathedral cannot be given with perfect accuracy, but the account which is here subjoined will be near enough for all practical purposes.

GENERAL RESTORATION.

L s. d.

Contributed by the public to the "Ely Cathedral Restoration Fund" 9578 0 0

Expended by the Dean and Chapter (about) 11,000 0 0

PEACOCK MEMORIAL.

Contributed by the friends of Dean Peacock to the restoration of the Lantern 2407 0 0

Expended by the Dean and Chapter (about) 4200 0 0

It would thus appear that since the commencement of the great works in 1845 to the present time, the sum of L27,185 has been expended, of which L15,200 has been furnished by the Dean and Chapter. It ought to be added that the sum contributed by the public includes a donation of L500 by the Bishop of the Diocese, and about L1000 contributed by members of the Chapter in their individual capacity.

It must be observed, however, that the sum just mentioned by no means represents all that has been done for the Cathedral. The following works and gifts are not included:—

1. The painted windows, which have been supplied partly by individual donors, partly by a bequest of Bishop Sparke. Amongst the donors are Her Majesty the Queen and the Prince Consort. To the bequest of Bishop Sparke the Cathedral is indebted for the East windows, and those in the clerestory of the Choir, and the fund is not yet exhausted.

2. The carved panels above the Stalls in the Choir, now amounting to 37, and supplied almost entirely by individual donors, at a cost of about L18 each.

3. Bishop Alcock's Chapel, restored by Jesus College, Cambridge.

4. A pinnacle at the south-east corner of the Choir, built by A.J.B. Beresford Hope, Esq.

5. The magnificent Reredos, presented by J. Dunn-Gardner, Esq.

6. The contribution of Canon E.B. Sparke towards the restoration of the south-west Transept, and that by the two Messrs. Evans to the works in the western Tower.

7. The Font, presented by Canon Selwyn.

8. The Gates of the Choir Aisles, presented by Alan Lowndes, Esq. and Dean Peacock.

9. The Brass Eagle Lectern, presented by Canon E.B. Sparke.

10. The Tombs of Bishop Allen and Dr. Mill.

11. A legacy of L100 by the late Mr. Millers, Minor Canon of the Cathedral, and a contribution of L300 by his residuary legatees, applied to the ceiling of the Nave.

Neither does the sum mentioned as having been contributed by the public include a legacy of L500 from the late Miss Allen, daughter of Bishop Allen, (which has been appropriated to a new pulpit, now in progress from the designs of G.G. Scott, Esq.,) and a legacy of equal amount, from Bishop Turton, for the purpose of re-paving the Nave.

It may be safely stated that the expense of the works and the gifts above specified has not been less than L13,000; the windows alone have cost nearly L9000. The entire sum already expended upon the Cathedral will thus be found to exceed L40,000.

In order to bring the Cathedral into such a condition as would appear satisfactory to those who have taken part in its restoration, the following works require to be done:—

1. The Nave, Octagon, and Transepts must be paved. Towards this work Bishop Turton gave by his will (as before stated) the sum of L500. The whole expense will probably be not less than L2500.

2. The stone-work of the Octagon must be completed by the restoration of the pinnacles and parapet. The external effect of Alan de Walsingham's Lantern cannot be rightly estimated until this restoration has been made; the cost will be about L2500.

3. The Lantern must be internally decorated. This work, though highly necessary for completing the effect of the interior, will probably cost not more than L500.

4. The Galilee porch requires extensive repair, partly from the decay of the Purbeck marble which is largely used in its construction, and partly from the unskilful treatment to which it has been submitted in former times. A grand commencement of this work has been made by Mrs. John Thomas Waddington, of Twyford Lodge, Winchester, at whose sole expense the portal which forms the eastern side of the Galilee is undergoing complete restoration, as a memorial of her late husband. The restoration of the remainder of the Galilee would probably cost L2000.

5. The warming of the Cathedral is another work, for which it would be impossible to set down less than L500; probably it would cost much more; but this is a work which, if considered desirable, may fairly be left to the Dean and Chapter.

6. The proper lighting of the Cathedral is a matter for consideration; this also might be regarded as a work devolving upon the capitular body: but when the extremely artistic character of the standards or coronae, which such a building requires, is taken into account, perhaps it may be fairly added to the list of works in which the friends of the Cathedral may be asked to co-operate.

From this statement then it would appear that an expenditure of from L7000 to L8000 would complete the principal necessary works of the Cathedral, with the exception of the rebuilding of the north-west Transept, which it will probably be deemed desirable to omit from consideration, at all events until all the other works specified have been finished.

Call the sum necessary L7000; this is not much to raise for so good a purpose; and when it is considered what the effect of the expenditure of such a sum will be, it seems difficult to believe that the money will not be forthcoming.

The Dean and Chapter have not shown themselves hitherto insensible to the primary claim which the Cathedral has upon them, nor are they likely to do so in the completion of the great work which they have now had in hand so long. But the Cathedral has claims upon others beside the Capitular body. It has claims, which it is believed will be once more acknowledged by the wealthy landowners of the Diocese, by the Colleges of Cambridge, several of which are intimately connected with Ely, and finally by lovers of architectural beauty and ecclesiastical propriety throughout the country.

To all persons, therefore, who take an interest in Ely Cathedral on Diocesan or any other grounds, an appeal is now made, and they are respectfully urged to make one final effort for the purpose of completing a work which has been so well begun, and hitherto so prosperously carried out.

H. GOODWIN."

"The Deanery, Ely, January, 1866."

Since the issue of the foregoing memorandum further progress has been made in the Restoration of the Cathedral.

1. The Nave and Aisles have been re-paved.

2. The great Western doors have been repaired and decorated.

3. The Cathedral has been warmed and lighted.

4. Many stained windows have been inserted in the Choir.

5. The fourth large window in the Octagon has been filled with painted glass.

6. The foundation of the south side of the Choir and the south-eastern Transept have been underpinned and thoroughly repaired.

7. The great Western Tower has been braced with iron bands, and, it is believed, effectually secured.

8. The stone pulpit in the Octagon has been erected.

9. Many figures in wood have been placed on the Choir screen, the decoration of which is now completed.

10. Nine stone figures have been placed in the ancient niches in the Octagon; three more are needed to complete the design.

11. The whole of the carved panels over the stalls in the Choir have been completed.

* * * * *

Several works still remain to be effected before the restoration can be considered as complete.

1. The paving of the Octagon and Transepts. The cost of the paving of the Nave has much exceeded the sum anticipated. The completion of this work will cost from L1000 to L2000 additional.

2. The re-paving of the aisles of the Choir, a work of no pressing importance at present, but which will demand great care and consideration whenever it is undertaken.

3. The decoration of the blank space of wall beneath the great East Window, on which there remain some traces of painted figures. If these are found too faint and uncertain for restoration, the space might perhaps be covered with a copy of some appropriate painting in mosaic.

4. The restoration of the exterior of the east end of the Choir. Window shafts to the number of about fifty have disappeared or are broken. The south-east angle turret has been crowned with a pinnacle, but the corresponding turret at the north-east still remains truncated. In the eastern face of the Choir there are twelve niches, which probably were once all filled with figures.

5. The restoration of the Galilee is still very incomplete. The shafts of Purbeck marble, which are so numerous throughout it, require to be repaired or replaced. The niches in the west face, intended for figures, are all empty.

6. The pitch of the roof of the Galilee and of the south-western Transept ought to be raised to give their full effect to the proportions of the great western Tower.

7. The rebuilding of the fallen Transept (north-west) is a work much to be desired, perhaps hardly to be anticipated, yet surely not to be despaired of.

8. The completion of the pinnacles and parapet of the Octagon. This is very important to give full effect to the central portion of the Cathedral, which suffers unduly in estimation from the original design being so imperfectly carried out.

9. Exterior repairs of Trinity Church, formerly the Lady Chapel, which is still under the charge of the Capitular body. The cost of restoring the interior decoration of this elaborate specimen of art, if it be deemed desirable, may be left at present out of calculation.

A generous offer has been made for the interior decoration of the Lantern and vault of the Octagon, which there is every reason to hope will be executed at no distant time.

C. MERIVALE.

The Deanery, October, 1873.

Summary of Expenditure upon Restorations, Memorials, and Special Works executed in Ely Cathedral within the last thirty years.

L s. d.

Restoring the interior and exterior of the Choir, providing Memorials, special works, and decorations 28,067 0 0

Restoring the Lantern as a memorial to the late Dean Peacock, furnishing Octagon, and filling large windows with stained glass 10,022 0 0

Restoring north and south-east Transepts 4123 0 0

Repairing roof, making new ceiling, laying new floors to the Nave and side aisles, providing memorials, &c. 7269 19 4

Opening the Lantern of the great Western Tower, securing the Tower, &c. 4017 15 10

Restoring St. Catherine's Chapel, restoring the south-west Transept, now the Baptistry 2384 16 9

Restoring west Entrance-gates, &c. 1168 15 10 ——————— L57,053 7 9 ==============

Lists of those persons who have contributed from time to time to these Restorations have been published. The general amount of these offerings are shown by the following summary:—

L s. d. Contributions and special works by the Bishops of Ely and their families 3600 0 0

Contributions and payments by the Dean L s. d. and Chapter corporate 22,927 10 7

Contributions by individual members of the Chapter and their families 14,907 19 0 ———————-37,835 9 7

Contributions and special works by the Officers and Tradesmen of the Dean and Chapter 1412 1 0

Contributions by other Inhabitants of the City of Ely 365 11 0

Contributions by the general public 13,840 6 2 ——————— L57,053 7 9 ==============

Besides the Restorations of the Cathedral, and the defraying of numerous expenses incident to their position as patrons or proprietors, considerable works have been carried on by the Dean and Chapter during the last thirty years in providing houses for the Masters of the Grammar School, converting the Great Gate into suitable Schoolrooms (towards which friends have contributed L575, including L325 by the City of Ely), partially restoring Prior Crauden's Chapel, improving the Deanery and the Canons' houses, building new Schools for the Choristers, with a Master's house, turning part of the old Sacristy into a muniment room and Verger's lodge, executing important sanitary works, laying underground drains, laying out and planting the grounds around the Cathedral, &c., at a cost altogether exceeding L12,000, exclusive of ordinary repairs. Total cost of Restorations and Improvements about L70,000.

* * * * *

Some of the works named as being required to be done have been completed since the issue of the Dean's statement in 1873, viz., the decoration of the Octagon and Lantern; the three figures of the Apostles required to complete the series in the Octagon; the floor of the north arm of the Transept; and the erection of pinnacles on the exterior of the Octagon.



Illustrations of Ely Cathedral.

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PRINTERS, PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS,

&c., &c.

MINSTER PLACE, ELY,

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PHOTO-PICTURES OF ELY CATHEDRAL,

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Panoramic size, 11 in. by 6 in., exclusive of mounts, about 17 varieties. Universal series, 8-1/2 in. by 6-1/3 in., " 30 " Cabinet series, 6 in. by 4 in., " 25 " Carte de visite series, 4 in. by 2 in., " 30 "

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A SELECTION of 20 PHOTOGRAPHS, Cabinet size, mounted, and bound in a volume for the Drawing Room table, 21s. cloth.

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[pointing hand symbol] A large SELECTION of PHOTOGRAPHS by various artists, mounted and unmounted, from 6d. to 3s. 6d. each.

* * * * *

Architectural Gems of Ely Cathedral,

A series of beautiful Engravings of the various styles of Architecture.

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WORKS

PUBLISHED BY T.A. HILLS AND SON,

MINSTER PLACE, ELY.

THE PSALTER, OR PSALMS OF DAVID; together with the Te Deum, Jubilate, Magnificat, Nunc Dimittis, &c., carefully marked and pointed for chanting. By the late ROBERT JANES, Organist of Ely Cathedral. A New Edition, revised and accented under the direction of a Committee of the Ely Diocesan Church Music Society. Quarto, price 4s. sewed. Pocket Edition, 1s. 6d. cloth.

THE HYMNS AND CANTICLES used in the Morning and Evening Services of the Church; selected from "The Psalter," carefully marked and pointed for chanting. For the use of Congregations of Churches and Chapels where the Psalms are not usually chanted.—price 2d. sewed.

THE ORDER OF MORNING AND EVENING PRAYER, Daily throughout the year; together with the Order of the Administration of the Lord's Supper, or Holy Communion, set to Music, as used in the Cathedral Church of Ely. Royal 16mo. 1s 6d. limp cloth; or with red rubrics and border lines, in cloth boards and red edges, 2s. 6d.

An allowance to Clergymen and Organists taking a quantity.

THE Words of about 400 ANTHEMS used in the Cathedral Church of Ely, edited by the Rev. W.E. Dickson, Precentor. Price 2s. cloth limp.

A HAND-BOOK TO THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ELY; with some account of the Monastic Buildings, Bishop's Palace, &c. Illustrated by Engravings and Ground Plans. Eleventh Edition revised. Crown Octavo, from 1s.

THE ELY DIOCESAN CALENDAR AND CLERGY LIST, published annually, contains a variety of official and general information for the Clergy and Laity. Price 1s.