- - - Size Thickness No. threads per inch - - - 1-1/4 0.140 11-1/2 1-1/2 0.145 11-1/2 2 0.154 11-1/2 2-1/2 0.204 8 3 0.217 8 3-1/2 0.226 8 4 0.237 8 5 0.259 8 6 0.280 8 - - -

Screw pipe work came into common use with the advance of modern steel structures. Some difficulty had been experienced in getting the cast-iron pipe joints tight and to keep the pipe so anchored that it would not crack. The screw pipe was found to answer all of the requirements of modern structures and therefore has been used extensively. The life of screw pipe is not as long as extra heavy cast-iron pipe. This is the only serious objection to screw pipe, which must be renewed after a term of years, while extra heavy cast iron lasts indefinitely. Screw pipe is never used underground. When piping is required underground, extra heavy cast-iron pipe is used.

PIPING

The pipe used in Durham work is galvanized extra heavy, or standard wrought-iron, or steel pipe. It is almost impossible to recognize wrought-iron from steel pipe without the aid of a chemical or a magnifying glass. To test the pipe to distinguish its base, take a sharp file and file through the surface of the pipe that is to be tested. If the pipe is steel, under a magnifying glass the texture of the filed surface will appear to be smooth and have small irregular-shaped grains, and there will also be an appearance of compactness. If the pipe is iron, the texture will have the appearance of being ragged and will show streaks of slag or black. When screw pipe is cut there is always left a large burr on the inside of the pipe. This burr greatly reduces the bore of the pipe and is a source of stoppage in waste pipes. After the pipe is cut this burr should be reamed out thoroughly. One of the strong points of screw pipe is the strength of each joint. Care should therefore be taken to see that perfect threads are cut on the pipe and that the threads of the fittings are perfect. The dies should be set right and not varied on each joint. There should be plenty of oil used when threads are cut so that the thread will be clean and sharp. The follower or guide on stocks should be the same size as the pipe that is being threaded, otherwise a crooked thread will result. If a pipe-threading machine is used, the pipe is set squarely between the jaws of the vise that holds the pipe in place. When cutting a thread on a long length of pipe, the end sticking out from the machine must be supported firmly so that no strain will come on the machine as the pipe turns. It is necessary to cut crooked threads sometimes on the pipe to allow the pipe pitch for drainage or to bring the pipe into alignment where fitting would take up too much room. To cut a crooked thread on a piece of pipe, simply leave the follower out of the stock or put in the size larger. The dies not having a guide will cut a crooked thread. Piping should be run with as few threads as possible. With a thorough knowledge of and the intelligent use of fittings, a minimum number of threads will result.

The pipes in a building are run in compact parallel lines in chases designed especially for them. The tendency is to confine the pipes to certain localities as much as possible. This makes a very neat job and in case repairs are needed, the work and trouble incurred will be confined to one section.

FITTINGS

The fittings used in screw pipe work are cast-iron recess type (see Fig. 54). The fittings are so made that the inside bores of the pipe and the fittings come in direct line with each other, thus making a smooth inside surface at all bends. The fittings are all heavily galvanized. All fittings should be examined on the inside for any lumps of metal of sufficient size to catch solid waste matter, and these must be removed or the fitting discarded. All 90 deg. bends, whether Ts or elbows, are tapped to give the pipe that connects with them a pitch of at least 1/4 inch to the foot. Except where obligatory, 90 deg. fittings should not be used. To make a bend of 90 deg. a Y-branch, a nipple and a 45 deg. bend should be used, or two 45 deg. bends will make a long easy sweep of the drainage pipes and reduce the possibility of stoppage.

Y-branches are inserted every 30 feet at least to allow for a clean-out which can be placed in the branch of the fitting. When a clean-out is placed an iron plug should not be used. These plugs are not removed very often and an iron plug will rust in and be almost impossible to get out. Brass clean-out plugs are used and are easily taken out.

At times it is necessary to connect cast iron and wrought iron, or in a line where a union could be used if the pipe were not a waste pipe, a tucker fitting is used. This fitting is threaded on one end and has a socket on the other to allow for caulking. To get a good idea of all the fittings in general use, the reader should get a catalogue from one of the fitting manufacturers and a survey of it will give the names and sizes of the fittings. However, I show a few common ones. In the writer's opinion, the studying of the catalogue would be of more benefit than a description of fittings at this point. The sizes used and the methods employed to vent the waste-pipe systems are the same as in cast-iron work.

HANGERS AND SUPPORTS

The hanging of screw pipe is a very essential point. The taking of the strain off from a fitting or line of pipe by the use of a hanger is the means of avoiding serious trouble after a job is completed. On horizontal runs hangers are placed not more than 8 feet apart. In a building constructed of wood, the hangers are secured to the joists. In a building constructed of steel beams and concrete the hangers are secured to the steel beams by means of I-beam hangers that clamp on the beams; also in the case of concrete the hangers are extended through the floor and a T is put on the hanger on top of the cement floor; an iron bar or a short piece of smaller pipe run through the T holds the hanger in place and secures it rigidly. The finished floor is laid over the hanger so that it does not show from the top. Hangers on the vertical lines should be placed at every joint and under each fitting. To have the pipe in true alignment, the hangers must be hung and placed in line. Every riser line must have an extra support at the base to avoid any settling of the stack which will crack the fittings and break fixture connections.

MEASUREMENTS

The proper installation of screw pipe work requires getting correct and accurate measurements. Every plumber is or should be able to get correct center to center, center to end, end to end, center to back, and end to back measurements. In Durham work 45 deg. angles are continually occurring. To get these measurements correctly, the following table has been compiled as used by the author and found to be correct. The reader should memorize it so that it may be used without referring to the book.

MEASUREMENTS

- Soil pipe Screw pipe Multiplier - 1/6 bend 60 1.15 1/8 " 45 1.41 1/12 " 30 2. 1/16 " 22-1/2 2.61 1/32 " 11-1/4 5.12 1/64 " 5-5/8 10.22 -

Before any measurements are taken, the lines of pipe are laid out and the position of each fitting known. As I have stated before, the plumber must look ahead with his work. He must have the ability of practically seeing the pipe in place before the work is started. This requires experience and judgment. Before the measurements are taken and the pipe cut consideration must be given to the fact that the fittings and pipes must be screwed into position. Therefore, "can the fitting on the pipe be placed where it is laid out when this is considered?" must be one of the many questions a plumber should ask himself. Allowance must be made for the chain tongs to swing. Whenever possible, a fitting is made up on the pipe while the pipe is in the vise.



FIXTURE CONNECTIONS

The fixture connections when screw pipe is used are necessarily different than when cast-iron pipe is used. A brass nipple is wiped on a piece of lead pipe and then screwed into the fitting left for the closet connection. The lead is flanged over above the floor and the closet set on it. The lead is soldered to a brass flange. The brass flange is secured to the floor and then the closet bowl secured to the brass flange. Another method employed is to screw a brass flange into the fitting so that when it is made up the flange will come level with the floor; the closet bowl is then secured to this flange. There are a number of patented floor flanges for closet bowl connections that can be used to advantage. Slop sinks have practically the same connections as the closets. Other fixtures such as the urinal, lavatory, and bath, can be connected with a short piece of lead wiped on a solder nipple, or the trimmings for the fixture can be had with brass having iron pipe size threads, and the connection can then be made directly with the outlet on the waste line. This is a very general way to describe the connections, but space will not allow a detailed description of these connections. It is always well to allow for short lead connections for fixtures so that the lead will give if the stack settles.



CHAPTER XVII

GAS FITTING, PIPE AND FITTINGS, THREADING, MEASURING, AND TESTING

GAS AND ITS USE IN BUILDINGS

Gas is in common use in all classes of buildings today. Dwellings use it for cooking and illuminating, factories, office buildings, and public buildings for power. In some parts of the country natural gas is found. In these places it is used freely for heating fuel. The actual making of gas is something that every plumber should understand. If space permitted I would describe a gas plant with all of its by-products. However, we shall deal only with the actual installation of gas piping in buildings. Gas mains are run through the streets the same as water mains are run. Branches are taken off these mains and extended into the buildings requiring gas. The gas company generally installs the gas service pipe inside of the basement wall and places a stop cock on it free of charge. This stop that is placed on the pipe is a plug core type, the handle for turning it off is square, and a wrench is required to turn it. The square top has a lug on it. There is also a lug corresponding to it on the body of the valve. When the valve is shut off, these two lugs are together. Each lug has a hole in it large enough for a padlock ring to pass through. This gives the gas company absolute control of the gas in the building.

SETTING OF THE METER.—Every building that is supplied with gas has a meter that registers the amount of gas consumed. This meter is placed on the service pipe on the house side of the above-mentioned stop cock. This meter is furnished free of charge with a trivial charge made for setting up. The actual setting of this meter is not made until the piping throughout the building has had a thorough and satisfactory test and is found free from all leaks. The meter must be set level on a substantial bracket and in a place, if possible, where it will not require an artificial light to read its dial. The dry meter is usually used in dwellings. The interesting construction and mechanism of this meter cannot be discussed here.



The reading of the dials on a gas meter comes in the province of the plumber and he should be able to read them. The sketch shows the dial plate of a meter. The ordinary house meter has only three recording dials. Large meters have five or more. To read the amount of gas consumed according to the meter we will read the dials as they are indicated on Fig. 77. We will call the four dials No. 1, No. 2, No. 3 and No. 4. In each of these dials a complete revolution of the index hand denotes 1,000, 10,000, 100,000 and 1,000,000, cubic feet respectively. The index hands on No. 1 and No. 3 revolve in the same direction, while No. 2 and No. 4 revolve in the opposite direction. Two ciphers are added to the figures that are indicated on the dials and the statement of the meter will be had. To tell just how much gas has been consumed in a given time, the statement of the meter is taken at the beginning of this given time and at the end of the time. The difference in the figures indicates the number of cubic feet of gas that have been consumed. A gas cock should be placed on the house side of the meter. The dials of meter read 658,800 cubic feet. The dial having the highest number is read first No. 4 dial points to 6, this indicates that No. 3 dial has revolved 6 times. Dial No. 3 reads 5, therefore the reading of dial No. 3 and No. 4 is 65. Dial No. 2 reads 8 making the readings of the three dials 658. Dial No. 1 reads 8 making the readings of the four dials 6588 add two ciphers to this figure and 658,800 is the correct reading.



PIPE AND FITTINGS.—The pipe used in gas fitting is wrought iron or steel. In special places, rubber hose is used. Brass pipe is occasionally used to advantage. The fittings used in iron pipe gas work should be galvanized. No plain fittings should be allowed. The plain fittings very often have sand holes in them and a leak will result. Sometimes this leak does not appear until after the piping has been in use some time and the expense of replacing the fitting can only be guessed at. By using galvanized fittings, this trouble will be eliminated. All fittings used should be of the beaded type. The fitting and measurement of this work is practically the same as described under iron pipe work. To have the beginner get a clearer idea of gas-piping a building, the piping of the small building sketched will be gone over in detail and studied. One of the first important steps that a gas fitter is confronted with is the locating of the various lights and openings. With these located as shown on the plan, Figs. 78, 79 and 80, we will proceed to work out the piping. The first floor rise will be 1-inch, the second floor will be 1-inch. The horizontal pipe supplying the first floor outlets will be 3/4-inch pipe. The horizontal pipe on the second floor will be 3/4-inch. The balance of the pipe will be 3/8- or 1/2-inch. At this point your attention is called to the sketch of piping, sizes, and measurements. This sketch should be studied and understood in detail. The good mechanic will employ a sketch of this kind when installing any piping. The poor mechanic will take two or three measurements and get them out, put them in, and then get some more. This method is extremely costly and unworkmanlike. There is no reason, except the ability of the workman, why he cannot take a building like the sketch and get all the piping measurements for the job, then get them out, go to the job and put them in. The amount of time saved in this way is so great that a workman should not consider himself a full-fledged mechanic until he can get the measurements this way, and get them accurately. With a tape line, gimlet, and plumb-bob, a mechanic is fully equipped with tools to get his measurements. If the measurements are taken with a tape line, the same tape line should be used when measuring the pipe and cutting it. When laying out the piping, never allow a joist to be cut except within 6 inches of its bearing. It is good policy never to cut timber unless absolutely necessary and then only after consulting with the carpenter. When joists have to be notched they should be cut only on the top side. The pipe as it is put in place should be braced rigidly. Wherever there is an outlet pipe extending through the wall, the pipe should be braced from all sides so that when the fixture is screwed in it will be perfectly rigid.



The measurements on the piping sketch, Fig. 81, are taken from the accompanying sketch of a dwelling, and if they were to be actually put in, they would fit. The reader would do well to copy this sketch and follow the piping and check the measurements according to the plan, and note how the different risers, drops, etc., are drawn. It is not necessary in a sketch of this kind to draw to a scale. After the different measurements are the letters C.C., E.C., E.E., C.B. and E.B., meaning center to center, end to center, end to end, center to back, and end to back, respectively. Offsetting pipe is a very convenient way of getting the pipe or fittings back to the wall for support. To offset pipe properly and with little trouble, take a piece of scantling 2 by 4 and brace it between the floor and ceiling. Bore a few different-sized holes through it and you will have a very handy device for offsetting pipe. There is a little trick in offsetting pipe that one will have to practice to obtain. The pipe must be held firmly in the place where the pipe is to be bent. Large offsets and bends should not be made; 2 to 4 inches is as large as should be used. Larger offsets that are required should be made with fittings. Always make the offsets true and have the ends perfectly straight. Before putting a piece of pipe permanently in place, always look or blow through it, to ascertain if its bore is obstructed or not. Sometimes dirt or slag will collect and cause stoppage.

READING THE PIPE SKETCH.—Vertical lines represent vertical pipes (see Fig. 81). Horizontal lines represent horizontal pipes running parallel to the front. Diagonal lines represent horizontal pipes running from back to front. Any line that is drawn perpendicular to any other line stands for a horizontal pipe. A diagonal line separating a vertical line or horizontal line or set of lines represents a different horizontal plane. With this explanation the sketch will be made clear to one after drawing it. The reader should now take each measurement and check it on the plan. This is easily done by using a scale rule. The height of the ceiling is 8-1/2 feet on the first floor, the second floor is 8 feet. The first floor joists are 10 inches, the second floor joists are 9 inches. An outlet is indicated by a small circle. In the piping sketch, this circle is connected with the riser or drop by a horizontal line. At the junction of these two lines a short perpendicular line is drawn, and indicates the direction of the outlet.

Let me again emphasize the need to understand thoroughly this piping sketch, and to become so familiar with it that it can readily be put to use. The value of a mechanic is determined by the quality and the quantity of work that he can turn out; and a mechanic who can lay out his work and see it completed before he starts, and then proceeds to install his work, is by far of more value to his employer than the man who can see only far enough ahead to cut out two or three measurements and spends most of his time walking between the vise and place of installing the pipe.

TESTING.—The system of gas piping must be tested before the pipes have been covered by the advance of building operations. If the job is of considerable size, the job can be tested in sections, and if found tight the sections can be covered. The necessity of having the piping rigidily secured can be appropriately explained here. If the test has been made and the system found tight and some pipe that is not securely anchored is accidentally or otherwise pushed out of place and bent by some of the mechanics working about the building, a leak may be caused and yet not discovered until the final test is made after the plastering is finished. The expense and trouble thus caused is considerable and could have been avoided by simply putting in the proper supports for the pipe.

To test the piping, an air pump and a gage connected with the pipes are placed in a convenient position. The job should now be thoroughly gone over, making sure that all plugs and caps are on and that no outlet is open, also that all pipe that is to be put in has been installed. After this has been attended to, the pump is operated until 10 pounds is registered on the gage. The connection leading to the pump and the piping is now shut off. If the gage drops rapidly, there is a bad leak in the system. This leak should be found without difficulty and repaired. If the gage drops slowly, it denotes a very small leak, such as a sand hole or a bad thread. This kind of leak is more troublesome to find. When it has been found, the pipe or fitting causing the leak should be taken out and replaced. If black caps have been used to cap the outlets, the chances are that a sand hole will be found in one of them. Nothing but galvanized fittings should be used. In case the small leak mentioned above cannot be found by going over the pipe once, there are other means of locating the leak. Two of the methods used, I will explain. If the job is small, each fitting is painted with soap suds until the fitting is found that causes the leak. If the leak is not in the fittings, then the pipe can be gone over in the same way. As soon as the soap suds strikes the leak, a large bubble is made and the leak discovered. It is possible that there are more leaks, so the gage is noted and if it still drops, the search should be continued. The pump should be operated to keep the pressure up to 10 pounds while the search is being made for the leak. When the gage stands at 10 pounds without dropping, the job is then tight. The pump and gage fitting should be gone over first to ascertain if they leak. The other method employed to discover leaks is to force a little ether or oil of peppermint (not essence) into the system by means of the pump. A leak can readily be noted by the odor. To make this method successful, the ether or peppermint should not be handled by the men who are to hunt for the leak. The bottle containing the fluid should not be opened in the building except to pour some into the piping, otherwise the odor will get into the building and as the odor comes out of the leak it will not be noted. For the benefit of the gas fitter, the piping should be tested again after the plastering is completed. The next test is made when the fixtures are put on, and as the piping is tight any leak that develops in this test indicates that the fixtures leak. There are in common use various methods to stop leaks in gas pipe when they are found. If a piece of piping or a fitting is defective, it should be taken out and replaced. This should be remembered so that while the piping is being installed any defects should be noted and the defective fitting or pipe thrown out. Before the gas job is accepted, the gas company will inspect it and look for traps and sags in the pipe. Therefore, the piping should be installed without any traps and it should be arranged to pitch toward the meter, or toward a convenient place from which any condensation can be taken out. If provision is not made for this condensation, it will accumulate and stop the flow of gas.

SHOWER-BATH CONNECTIONS



The sketches show clearly the methods employed to make a shower-bath waste and stall water-tight. The shower bath, as a separate fixture, is in use and the demand for it as a separate fixture is increasing rapidly. This demand comes from the owners of private houses. The plumber must therefore devise some way to make these connections tight and prevent any leak from showing in the room below. This fixture is so constructed that all waste pipes and trap come under the floor level with no way of getting to them from below. Therefore the piping for this fixture must be of a permanent nature. No pipe or trap made of material that is liable to give out in a short time should be allowed under a shower-bath fixture or stall. The two sketches, Figs. 82 and 83 illustrate two methods of connecting and making tight a shower stall. A plumber should always consider it his special duty to make his work complete and free from all objections. He should always prepare for any emergency that may occur in the future. This is rather a big task, yet the plumber when accepting all of his responsibilities has a big task. I state this to the beginner and emphasize the all-important fact that he must learn to perform and think deeply of the elements of plumbing to be able later on to handle successfully the problems that present themselves in the plumbing trade.



The heavy brass trap shown in the sketch has proved itself very satisfactory and can be made to fit almost any condition of piping or building construction. A flashing of sheet lead is soldered on the trap and carried out to the outside edge of the stall where it is turned up 1 inch, or to the floor level. When the flashing is carried out for only a foot on each side of the trap, the possibilities of a leak are greater.



CHAPTER XVIII

PLUMBING CODES

The work of plumbing has a direct result on the health of the occupants of buildings; therefore in order that the plumbing may not be installed improperly and impair the health of the occupants, it is necessary to provide a code governing the installation of plumbing. Naturally these laws at first were under the control of the health department of cities, but of late years the building departments have assumed control of the codes with the result that cooperation with the building codes is now the practice rather than the exception.

To make certain the carrying out of the plumbing codes, it is required that a plan indicating the run, size, and length of pipes, location and number of fixtures of the prospective job be filed in the building department of the city, before the work is started. If the plan is approved by the plumbing inspector and acceptance is sent, then the work can be started. After a job is completed a test is made and the job is inspected by the plumbing inspector, and if found to meet requirements a written acceptance of the work is given by the building department. An effort is being made throughout the country to have the plumbing codes under State control rather than have a number of different codes in as many different cities and towns. The State code can be so arranged that it will apply to either city or town.

The installation of plumbing varies in different States. In the northern part of the United States all pipes which pass through the roof, if less than 4-inch must be increased to 4-inch. A pipe smaller than 4-inch will be filled with hoar frost during the winter and render the pipe useless to perform its function as a vent pipe. Pipes laid under ground in the Northern States must be at least 4 feet below the surface to protect them from freezing. In the Southern States the frost does not penetrate the ground to such a distance and the pipes can be laid on the surface.

Following is a State or City plumbing code insofar as it relates to the actual installation of plumbing.

SEC. 1. PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS.—There shall be a separate plan for each building, public or private, or any addition thereto, or alterations thereof, accompanied by specifications showing the location, size and kind of pipe, traps, closets and fixtures to be used, which plans and specifications shall be filed with the board or bureau of buildings. The said plans and specifications shall be furnished by the architect, plumber or owner, and filed by the plumber. All applications for change in plans must be made in writing.

SEC. 2. FILING PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS.—Plumbers before commencing the construction of plumbing work in any building (except in case of repairs, which are here defined to relate to the mending of leaks in soil, vent, or waste pipes, faucets, valves and water-supply pipes, and shall not be construed to admit of the replacing of any fixture, such as water closets, bath tubs, lavatories, sinks, etc., or the respective traps for such fixtures) shall submit to the bureau plans and specifications, legibly drawn in ink, on blanks to be furnished by said board or bureau. Where two or more buildings are located together and on the same street, and the plumbing work is identical in each, one plan will be sufficient. Plans will be approved or rejected within 24 hours after their receipt.

SEC. 3. MATERIAL OF HOUSE DRAIN AND SEWER.—House drains or soil pipes laid beneath floor must be extra heavy cast-iron pipe, with leaded and caulked joints, and carried 5 feet outside cellar wall. All drains and soil pipes connected with main drain where it is above the cellar floor shall be extra heavy cast-iron pipe with leaded joints properly secured or of heavy wrought-iron pipe with screw joints properly secured and carried 5 feet outside cellar wall and all arrangements for soil and waste pipes shall be run as direct as possible. Changes of direction on pipes shall be made with "Y"-branches, both above and below the ground, and where such pipes pass through a new foundation-wall a relieving arch shall be built over it, with a 2-inch space on either side of the pipe.

SEC. 4.—The size of main house drain shall be determined by the total area of the buildings and paved surfaces to be drained, according to the following table, if iron pipe is used. If the pipe is terra-cotta the pipe shall be one size larger than for the same amount of area drainage.

- - Diameter Fall 1/4 inch per foot Fall 1/2 inch per foot - - 4 inches 1,800 square feet drainage 2,500 square feet drainage area 5 inches 3,000 square feet drainage 4,500 square feet drainage area 6 inches 5,000 square feet drainage 7,500 square feet drainage area 8 inches 9,100 square feet drainage 13,600 square feet drainage area 10 inches 14,000 square feet drainage 20,000 square feet drainage area - -

The main house drains may be decreased in diameter beyond the rain-water conductor or surface inlet by permission of the bureau, when the plans show that the conditions are such as to warrant such decrease, but in no case shall the main house drain be less than 4 inches in diameter.

SEC. 5. MAIN TRAP.—An iron running trap with two clean-outs must be placed in the house drain near the front wall of the house, and on the sewer side of all connections. If placed outside the house or below the cellar floor the clean-outs must extend to surface with brass screw cap ferrules caulked in. If outside the house, it must never be placed less than 4 feet below the surface of the ground.

SEC. 6. FRESH-AIR INLET.—A fresh-air inlet pipe must be connected with the house drain just inside of the house trap and extended to the outer air, terminating with a return bend, or a vent cap or a grating with an open end 1 foot above grade at the most available point to be determined by the building department.

The fresh-air inlet pipe must be 4 inches in diameter for house drains of 6 inches or less and as much larger as the building department may direct for house drains more than 6 inches in diameter.

SEC. 7. LAYING OF HOUSE SEWERS AND DRAINS.—House sewers and house drains must, where possible, be given an even grade to the main sewer of not less than 1/4 inch to the foot. Full-sized "Y"- and "T"-branch fittings for handhole clean-outs must be provided where required on house drain and its branches. No clean-out need be larger than 6 inches.

SEC. 8. FLOOR DRAINS.—Floor or other drains will only be permitted when it can be shown to the satisfaction of the department of building that their use is absolutely necessary, and arrangements made to maintain a permanent water seal, and be provided with check or back-water valves.

SEC. 9. WEIGHT AND THICKNESS OF CAST-IRON PIPE.—All cast-iron pipes must be uncoated excepting all laid under ground, which shall be thoroughly tarred, sound, cylindrical and smooth, free from cracks, sand holes and other defects, and of uniform thickness and of grade known to commerce as extra heavy. Cast-iron pipe including the hub shall weigh not less than the following weights per linear foot:

2-inch pipe 5-1/2 pounds per foot. 3-inch pipe 9-1/2 pounds per foot. 4-inch pipe 13 pounds per foot. 5-inch pipe 17 pounds per foot. 6-inch pipe 20 pounds per foot. 7-inch pipe 27 pounds per foot. 8-inch pipe 33-1/2 pounds per foot. 10-inch pipe 45 pounds per foot. 12-inch pipe 54 pounds per foot.

All cast-iron pipe must be tested to 50 pounds and marked with the maker's name.

All joints in cast-iron pipe must be made with picked oakum and molten lead and caulked gas-tight. Twelve ounces of soft pig lead must be used at each joint for each inch in the diameter of the pipe.

SEC. 10. WROUGHT-IRON AND STEEL PIPE.—All wrought-iron and steel pipe shall be galvanized. Fittings used for drainage must be galvanized and of recess type known as drainage fittings. All fittings used for venting shall be galvanized and of the style known as steam pattern. No plain black pipe or fittings will be permitted.

SEC. 11. SUB-SOIL DRAINS.—Sub-soil drains must be discharged into a sump or receiving tank, the contents of which must be lifted and discharged into the drainage system above the cellar floor by some approved method. Where directly sewer-connected, they must be cut off from the rest of the building and plumbing system by a brass flap valve on the inlet to the catch basin and the trap on the drain from the catch basin must be water-supplied.

SEC. 12. YARD AND AREA DRAINS.—All yard, area and court drains when sewer-connected must have connection not less than 4 inches in diameter. They should be controlled by one trap—the leader trap if possible. All yards, areas and courts must be drained. Tenement houses and lodging houses must have yards, areas and courts drained into sewer.

SEC. 13. USE OF OLD DRAINS AND SEWERS.—Old house drains and sewers may be used in connection with new buildings or new plumbing, only when they are found, on examination by the department of building, to conform in all respects to the requirements governing new sewers and drains. All extensions to old house drains must be of extra heavy cast-iron pipe.

SEC. 14. LEADER PIPES.—All building shall be provided with proper metallic leaders for conducting water from the roofs in such manner as shall protect the walls and foundations of such buildings from injury. In no case shall the water from such leaders be allowed to flow upon the sidewalk but the same shall be conducted by a pipe or pipes to the sewer. If there is no sewer in the street upon which such building fronts, then the water from said leader shall be conducted, by proper pipes below the surface of the sidewalk, to the street gutter.

Inside leaders shall be constructed of cast iron, wrought iron or steel, with roof connections made gas-and water-tight by means of heavy copper drawn tubing slipped into the pipe. The tubing must slip at least 7 inches into the pipe. Outside leaders may be of sheet metal, but they must connect with the house drain by means of cast-iron pipe extending vertically 5 feet above grade level, where the building is located along public driveways or sidewalks. Where the building is located off building line, and not liable to be damaged the connection shall be made with iron pipe extending 1 foot above the grade level.

All leaders must be trapped with running traps of cast iron, so placed as to prevent freezing.

Rain leaders must not be used as soil, waste or vent pipes, nor shall such pipes be used as rain leaders.

SEC. 15.—EXHAUST FROM STEAM PIPES, ETC.—No steam discharge or exhaust, blow-off or drip pipe shall connect with the sewer or the house drain, leader, soil pipe, waste or vent pipe. Such pipes shall discharge into a tank or condenser, from which suitable outlet to the sewer shall be made. Such condenser shall be supplied with water, to help condensation and help protect the sewer, and shall also be supplied with relief vent to carry off dry steam.

SEC. 16. DIAMETER OF SOIL PIPE.—The smallest diameter of soil pipe permitted to be used shall be 4 inches. The size of soil pipes must not be less than those set forth in the following tables.

Maximum number of fixtures connected to:

- - Size of pipe Waste and soil combined Soil pipe alone - Branch Main Branch Main fixtures fixtures water closets water closets - - 4-inch 48 96 8 16 4.5-inch 96 192 16 32 6-inch 268 336 34 68 - -

If the building is six (6) and less than twelve (12) stories in height, the diameter shall not be less than 5 inches. If more than twelve (12) it shall be 6 inches, in diameter. A building six (6) or more stories in height, with fixtures located below the sixth floor, soil pipe 4 inches in diameter will be allowed to extend through the roof provided the number of fixtures does not exceed the number given in the table. All soil pipes must extend at least 2 feet above the highest window, and must not be reduced in size. Traps will not be permitted on main, vertical, soil or waste-pipe lines. Each house must have a separate line of soil and vent pipes. No soil or waste line shall be constructed on the outside of a building.

Fixtures with: 1 to 1-1/4-inch traps count as one fixture. 1 to 1-1/2 " traps count as one fixture. 1 to 2 " traps count as two fixtures. 1 to 2-1/2 " traps count as three fixtures. 1 to 3 " traps (water closets) count as four fixtures. 1 to 4 " traps count as five fixtures.

SEC. 17. CHANGE IN DIRECTION.—All sewer, soil, and waste pipes must be as direct as possible. Changes in direction must be made with "Y"- or half "Y"-branches or one-eighth bends. Offsets in soil or waste pipes will not be permitted when they can be avoided, nor, in any case unless suitable provision is made to prevent the accumulation of rust or other obstruction. Offsets must be made with fourth degree bends or similar fittings. The use of T "Y"s (sanitary Ts) will be permitted on upright lines only.

SEC. 18. JOINTS ON SOIL AND WASTE PIPES.—Connection on lead and cast-iron pipe shall be made with brass sleeve or ferrule, of the same size as the lead pipe inserted in the hub of the iron pipe, and caulked with lead. The lead must be attached to the ferrule by means of a wiped joint. Joints between lead and wrought-iron pipes must be made with brass nipple, of same size as lead pipe. The lead pipe must be attached to the brass nipple by means of a wiped joint. All connections of lead waste pipes must be made by means of wiped joints.

Short nipples on wrought-iron and steel pipes must be of thickness and weight known as "extra heavy" or "extra strong."

Brass ferrules must be best quality, extra heavy cast brass, not less than 4 inches long and 2-1/4, 3-1/2 and 4-1/2 inches in diameter and not less than the following weights:

Diameters Weights 2-1/4 inches 1 pound 0 ounce. 3-1/2 inches 1 pound 12 ounces. 4-1/2 inches 2 pounds 8 ounces.

SEC. 19. SOLDER NIPPLES.—Solder nipples must be heavy cast brass or of brass pipe, iron pipe size. When cast they must be not less than the following weights:

Diameters Weights 1-1/2 inches 0 pound 8 ounces. 2 inches 0 pound 14 ounces. 2-1/2 inches 1 pound 6 ounces. 3 inches 2 pounds 0 ounce. 4 inches 3 pounds 8 ounces.

SEC. 20. BRASS CLEAN-OUTS.—Brass screw caps for clean-outs must be extra heavy, not less than 1/8 inch thick. The screw cap must have a solid square or hexagonal nut not less than 1 inch high and a least diameter of 1-1/2 inches. The body of the clean-out ferrule must be at least equal in weight and thickness to the caulking ferrule for the same size pipe.

SEC. 21. LEAD WASTE PIPE.—All lead waste, soil vent and flush pipes must be of the best quality, known in commerce as "D," and of not less than the following weights per linear foot:

Diameters Weights 1-1/4 inches 2-1/2 pounds. 1-1/2 inches 3 pounds. 2 inches 4 pounds. 3 inches 6 pounds. 4 inches 8 pounds.

All lead traps and bends must be of the same weight and thicknesses as their corresponding pipe branches.

SEC. 22. ROOF FLASHERS.—Sheet lead for roof flashings must be 6-pound lead and must extend not less than 6 inches from the pipe and the joint made water-tight.

SEC. 23. TRAPS FOR BATH TUBS, WATER CLOSETS, ETC.—Every sink, bath tub, basin, water closet, slop hopper, or fixtures having a waste pipe, must be furnished with a trap, which shall be placed as close as practicable to the fixture that it serves and in no case shall it be more than 1 foot. The waste pipe from the bath tub or other fixtures must not be connected with a water-closet trap.

SEC. 24. SIZE OF HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL WASTE PIPES, TRAPS AND BRANCHES.—

Horizontal and vertical Number of small fixtures 1-1/4-inch 1 1-1/2-inch 2 2 -inch 3 to 8 2-1/2-inch 9 to 20 3 -inch 21 to 44

If building is ten (10) or more stories in height, the vertical waste pipe shall not be less than 3 inches in diameter. The use of wrought-iron pipe for waste pipe 2 inches or less in diameter is prohibited.

The size of traps and waste branches, for a given fixture, shall be as follows:

-+ Size in inches Kind of fixtures + -+ Trap Branch -+ -+ Water closet 3 4 Slop sink with trap combined 3 3 Slop sink ordinary 2 2 Pedestal urinal 3 3 Floor drain or wash 4 4 Yard drain or catch basin 4 4 Urinal trough 2 2 Laundry trays, two or five 2 2 Combination sink and tray (for each fixture) 1-1/2 2 Kitchen sinks, small 1-1/2 1-1/2 Kitchen sinks, large hotel, etc. Kitchen sinks, grease trap 2 Pantry sinks 1-1/2 1-1/2 Wash basin, one only 1-1/4 1-1/4 Bath tub 2 2 Shower baths 1-1/2 1-1/2 Shower baths, floor 2 2 Sitz bath 1-1/2 1-1/2 Drinking fountains 1-1/4 1-1/4 -+ -+

SEC. 25. OVERFLOW PIPES.—Overflow pipes from fixtures must in all cases be connected on the inlet side of the traps.

SEC. 26. SETTING OF TRAPS WITHOUT RE-VENT.—All traps must be substantially supported and set true with respect to their water levels. No pot, bottle or "D" trap will be permitted nor any form of trap that is not self-cleaning, nor that has interior chambers or mechanism nor any trap except earthenware ones that depend upon interior partitions for a seal. In case there is an additional fixture required in building and it is impossible to re-vent pipe for the trap, the building department may designate the kind of trap to be used. This shall not be construed to allow traps without re-vents in new buildings.

SEC. 27. SAFE AND REFRIGERATOR PIPES.—Safe-waste pipes must not connect directly with any part of the plumbing system. Safe-waste pipes must discharge over an open, water-supplied, publicly-placed, ordinary-used sink, placed not more than 3-1/2 feet above the cellar floor. The safe waste from a refrigerator must be trapped at the bottom of the line only and must not discharge upon the ground floor, but over an ordinary open pan, or some properly-trapped, water-supplied sink, as above. In no case shall the refrigerator waste pipe discharge into a sink located in a living room.

The branches on vertical lines must be made by means of "Y" fittings and be carried to the safe with as much pitch as possible. Where there is an offset on the refrigerator waste pipe in the cellar, there must be clean-outs placed. These clean-outs must be of brass.

In tenement and lodging houses the refrigerator waste pipe must extend above the roof, and not be larger than 1-1/2 inches and the branches not smaller than 1-1/4 inches. Refrigerator waste pipes, except in tenement houses, and all safe-waste pipes, must have brass flap valve on the lower ends. Lead safes must be graded and neatly turned over beveled strips at their edges.

SEC. 28. VENT-PIPE MATERIAL.—Material for vent pipes shall be of lead, brass, enameled iron or galvanized iron.

SEC. 29. VENTILATION OF TRAPS AND SOIL LINES.—Traps shall be protected from siphonage or air pressure by special vent pipes of a size of not less than the following tables:

-+ + - Maximum Number of traps vented length in feet Size of pipe + + + Mains Branch Main vertical -+ + + 1-1/4-inch vent 20 feet 1 1-1/2-inch vent 40 feet 2 or less 2-inch vent 65 feet 10 or less 20 or less 2-1/2-inch vent 100 feet 20 or less 40 or less 3-inch vent 10 or more 60 or less 100 or less stories -+ + +

The branch vent shall not be less than the following sizes:

1-1/4 inches in diameter for 1-1/4 inch trap. 1-1/2 inches in diameter for 1-1/2 inch to 2-1/2 inch trap. 2 inches in diameter for 3 inch to 4 inch trap. One-half their diameter, for traps 3 inches and over.

Where two or more closets are placed side by side, on a horizontal branch, the branch line shall have a relief extended as a loop. A pipe 2 inches in diameter shall be sufficient as a loop vent for two closets. A pipe 3 inches in diameter shall be sufficient as a relief for three or four closets; and where more than four closets are located on the same branch the relief shall not be less than 4 inches in diameter. All house drains and soil lines on which a water closet is located must have a 4-inch main vent line. Where an additional closet is located in the cellar or basement, and within 10 feet of main soil or vent line, no relief vent will be required for said closet; but where it is more than 10 feet, a 2-inch vent line will be required. Relief vent pipes for water closets must not be less than 2 inches in diameter, for a length of 40 feet, and not less than 3 inches in diameter, for more than 40 feet.

No re-vent from traps under bell traps will be required.

In any building having a sewer connection with a private or public sewer used for bell-trap connections or floor drainage only, a 2-inch relief line must be extended to the roof of the building from rear end of main. House drains, constructed for roof drainage only, will not require a relief vent.

A floor trap for a shower shall be vented, unless located in the cellar or ground floor the paving of which renders the trap inaccessible.

SEC. 30. HORIZONTAL VENT PIPES.—Where rows of fixtures are placed in a line, fitting of not less than 45 deg. to the horizontal must be used on vent lines to prevent filling with rust or condensation; except on brick or tile walls, where it is necessary to channel same for pipes, 90 deg. fittings will be allowed. Trapped vent pipes are strictly prohibited. No vent pipe from the house side of any trap shall connect with the ventilation pipe or with sewer, soil or waste pipe.

SEC. 31. OFFSET ON VENT LINES.—All offsets on vent lines must be made at an angle of not less than 45 deg. to the horizontal, and all lines must be connected at the bottom with a soil or waste pipe, or the drain, in such manner as to prevent the accumulation of rust, scale or condensation.

No sheet metal, brick, or other flue shall be used as a vent pipe.

SEC. 32. SETTING OF FIXTURES.—All fixtures must be set open and free from all enclosing woodwork. Water closets and urinals must not be connected directly or flushed from the water-supply pipes except when flushometer valves are used. Each water closet must be flushed from a separate cistern, the water from which is used for no other purpose, or may be flushed through flushometer valves.

Rubber connection and elbows are not permitted.

Pan, plunger, or hopper closets will not be permitted in any building. No range closet either wet or dry, nor any evaporating system of closets shall be constructed or allowed inside of any building.

A separate building constructed especially for the purpose, must be provided in which such range closets shall be set.

All earthenware traps must have heavy brass floor flange plates, soldered to the lead bends and bolted to the trap flange, and the joint made permanently secure and gas-tight.

In all buildings sewer-connected there must be at least one water closet in each building. There must be a sufficient number of water closets so that there will never be more than 15 people to each water closet.

Separate water closets and toilet rooms must be provided for each sex in buildings used as workshops, office buildings, factories, hotels and all places of public assembly.

In all buildings the water closet and urinal apartments must be ventilated into the outer air by windows opening on the same lot as the building is situated on or by a ventilating skylight placed over each room or apartment where such fixtures are located.

In all buildings the outside partition of any water closet or urinal apartment must be air-tight and extend to the ceiling or be independently ceiled over. When necessary to light such apartments properly the upper part of the partition must be provided with translucent glass. The interior partitions of such apartments must be dwarfed partitions.

In alteration work where it is not practicable to ventilate a closet or urinal apartment by windows or skylight to the outer air, there must be provided a sheet-iron duct extending to the outer air, the area of the duct must be at least 144 square inches for one water closet or urinal, and an additional 72 square inches for each addition closet or urinal added therein.

SEC. 33. URINALS.—All urinals must be constructed of materials impervious to moisture and that will not corrode under the action of urine. The floors and walls of urinal apartments must be lined with similar non-absorbent and non-corrosive material.

The platforms and treads of urinal stalls must be connected independently of the plumbing system, nor can they be connected with any safe-waste pipe.

The copper lining of water closet and urinal cisterns must not be lighter than 12 ounces copper, and must be stamped on lining with maker's name. Where lead is used it must not weigh less than 4 pounds to the square foot. All other materials are prohibited.

SEC. 34. FIXTURES PROHIBITED.—Wooden wash trays, sinks, or bath tubs are prohibited inside buildings. Such fixtures must be constructed of non-absorbent materials. Cement or artificial stone tubs will not be permitted, unless approved by the plumbing inspector and building department.

Yard water closets will not be permitted except as approved by the plumbing inspector and then passed by the building department.

SEC. 35. PRIVY VAULTS AND CESSPOOLS.—No privy vault or cesspool for sewage, shall be constructed in any part of the city where a sewer is at all accessible. In parts of the city where no sewer exists privy vaults and cesspools shall not be located within 2 feet of party or street line nor within 20 feet of any building. Before these are constructed application for permission therefore shall be made to the building department.

SEC. 36. MATERIAL AND WORKMANSHIP.—All material used in the work of plumbing and drainage must be of good quality and free from defects. The work must be executed in a thorough and workmanlike manner.



INDEX



A

Acid, muriatic, 12

B

Banjo, 120

Bath-tub, 5-6-7 size waste, 99

Bending irons, 15, 48, 59

Bib, wiping, 59, 68

Bowls, closet, 4, 5

C

Caulking joints, 89, 90

Cellar drainer, 84

Cement, pipe joint, 122

Cementing, 72, 73

Circulation, hot water, 124, 129

Closets, 3, 4, 5

Cocks, stop and waste, 120

Code-plumbing, 153 brass clean-outs, 160 change in direction, 159 diameter of soil pipes, 158 exhaust from steam pipes, 158 filing plans, 154 floor drains, 156 fresh-air inlet, 155 joints, 159 laying of drains, 156 lead waste pipe, 160 leader pipes, 157 main trap, 155 materials of drains, 154 old drains and sewers, 157 over-flow pipes, 162 plans and specification, 154 roof flashers, 160 safe and refrigerator pipes, 162 size of drains, 155 of waste pipes, 161 solder nipples, 160 traps, 160 without vents, 162 yard and area drains, 157

Code, fixtures prohibited, 165 horizontal vents, 164 material and workmanship, 166 offsets, 164 privy vaults and cesspools, 166 setting of fixtures, 164 urinals, 165 vent, pipe material, 162 ventilation of traps, 162

Connecting, sewers, 74

Connections, of fixtures, 139

Corporation cock and tap, 76-77

Coupling, right and left, 116

Covering, pipe, 131

Cup joint, 14-66

Curb cock, 77-81 box, 78-81

Cutters, pipe, 113

Cutting, terra-cotta pipe, 72 cast-iron pipe, 93

D

Dies, 112

Drainage, 2

Drains, 82, 83, 84, 87, 92

Drift plugs, 18

Drum trap, 61, 65, 68, 107

Durham work, 134

E

Earthenware, 3-5

Expansion joints, 129

F

Ferrule, brass, 37-43

File, 15

Fittings, drainage, 136 gas, 143 screw pipe, 98 soil pipe, 96

Fixtures, 3

Flushing, 3

Flux, 12

Fresh-air inlet, 105

G

Gas pipe and fittings, 143 piping, 141, 144

Goose neck, 81

H

Half and half solder, 21

Hammer, 15

Hangers, 121, 137

Heaters, flue connection, 130 gas coil, 126 instantaneous, 127

Hot water supply, 124

House drains, 86 traps, 87, 104

I

Inserting, terra-cotta pipe, 74

Intercepting trap, 92, 93

Iron enamelled ware, 3

J

Joints, amount of lead and oakum, 97 caulk, 87, 89 cup, 14 expansion, 129 of sub-soil, 84 overcast, 17 runner, 90 rust, 97 seams, 19 solder, 14

K

Kitchen sinks, 99

L

Lavatories, 8, 99

Lead connection, 78 used in caulked joints, 89, 97

Lead pipe, for water mains, 80 preparing for wiping, 45 use of, 27

Leaders, pipes and traps, 93

Long screws, 115

M

Main sewer, 81

Mason trap, 104

Measurements of piping, 146

Melting point of metals, 21

Metal, wiping, 31

Meter, reading gas, 142

N

Nipples, cutting and threading, 114 holders, 114

O

Oakum, use of, 89, 97

Overcast joint, 17, 67

P

Paste, 13

Pipe, brass, 80 covering, 131 cutting, 93 kinds of, 122 service, 81 soil, location, 95 steel, 97 tell-tale, 100 terra-cotta, 69 threading, 110 wrought iron, 97

Pipe laying, sewer, 71 water, 78 in tunnel, 73

Piping, water, 120 drainage, 135

Planking, 70, 71

Pressure, water, 119

R

Rain leaders, 86

Reaming, 135

Receptors, showers, 99

Refill, trench, 75, 79 tunnels, 79

Right and left couplings, 116

S

Sanitary drains, 91, 92

Screw-pipe work, 134

Seams, 19, 67

Sewerage, system of, 86

Sewers, 69, 81

Shoe, use of, 75

Shower stall, 150

Sinks, 2

Soil pipe, 95, 96

Soils, 13

Soldering iron, 11, 15, 66

Solders, 21

Stopcock, 45, 68, 81, 120

Sulphur, 97

Swab, 73, 81

T

Tables, angle measurements, 138, 139 brass ferrules, 160 fixtures and traps, 161 lead waste pipe, 160 measurements, 116 roof drainage, 155 screw-pipe, 134 size of vent pipes, 163 of waste pipe, 99 soil and waste pipe, 158 standard, threads, 110 terra-cotta pipe, 75 waste pipe, 161 weight of cast-iron pipe, 156 of solder nipples, 160

Tallow, 13

Tank, storage connections of, 125

Tell-tale pipe, 100

Terra-cotta pipe, 69, 75, 83 cutting, 72

Testing, gas pipe, 148

Thermostat, 124, 126

Tinning, brass, 38, 42, 45 bib, 59

Tools, bending iron, 15 caulking iron, 89 cold chisel, 89, 93 file, 15 hammer, 15 joint runner, 90 ladle, 29 pipe cutters, 113 rasp, 15 saw, 15 shave hook, 15 soldering iron, 15 tap-borer, 15, 47, 59 turn pin, 15 vise, 111 yarning iron, 89

Traps, bag, 109 centrifugal, 109 cleansweep, 108 drum, 107 flask, 108 house, 104 intercepting, 92 mechanical, 109 non-syphoning, 107 "S," 109 sure-seal, 109

Trenches, digging, 70, 81, 87 refilling, 75 water service, 76

Tubs, bath, 6

Tunnels, 73

U

Urinals, 99

V

Valves, check, 128 closet, 4 safety, 128

Ventilation pipe, 101

Vents, 100-103

W

Wash trays, 86, 99

Water connection, 76 supply, 118 rivers and lakes, 119 streams and brooks, 118 under pressure, 119 underground, 118

Wiping, 29 bib, 59 branch joints, 49 cloths, 67 drum trap, 61 2-inch brass ferrule, 40 4-inch brass ferrule, 43 round joint, 31 solder, 21 stopcock, 45



TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES

Inconsistencies in hyphenation and spelling have been retained.

Mid-paragraph illustrations have been moved for easier reading.

THE END