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Early English Meals and Manners
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[Sidenotes: [a] The names of Hemp. [b] Neckweed (ahalter) [c] is good for thievish apprentices, [d] for swashbucklers past grace, [e] and all scamps. [f] Also for young spendthrifts [g] who after their parents' death [h] waste their all with harlots [i] and in gambling [k] which makes men beggars, or thieves. [l] A life of reckless debauchery [m] and robbery [n] ends with [o] Hemp.]

[a] Also this worthy noble herbe Hempe, called Cannabis in Latten, can not bee wanted in a common wealth, [b] no Shippe can sayle without Hempe, y^e sayle clothes, the shroudes, staies, tacles, yarde lines, warps & Cables can not be made. [c] No Plowe, or Carte can be without ropes [1:Fol. xxviii.b.] halters, trace &c. [d] The Fisher and Fouler muste haue Hempe, to make their nettes. [e] And no Archer can wante his bowe string: and the Malt man for his sackes. With it the belle is rong, to seruice in the Church, with many mo thynges profitable whiche are commonly knowen of euery man, be made of Hempe.

[Sidenotes: [a] The use of Hemp [b] to the Sailor, [c] Plowman, [d] Fisher and [e] Archer.]

* * * * * * * * *

Andrew Borde on

Sleep, Rising, and Dress.

[From his Regyment, ? 1557.]

[Fol. E.i.] Whole men of what age or complexion so euer they be of, shulde take theyr naturall rest and slepe in the nyght: and to eschewe merydyall sleep. But and nede shall compell a man to slepe [a] after his meate: let hym make a pause, and than let hym stande & lene and [b] slepe agaynst a cupborde, or els let hym sytte upryght in a chayre and slepe. Slepynge after a full stomacke doth ingendre dyuers infyrmyties, it doth hurte the splene, it relaxeth the synewes, it doth ingendre the dropses and the gowte, and doth make a man looke euyll colored. [Fol. E.i.b.] Beware of veneryous actes before the fyrste slepe, and specyally beware of suche thynges after dyner or after a full stomacke, for it doth ingendre the crampe and the gowte and other displeasures. [c] To bedwarde be you mery, or haue mery company ahoute you, so that to bedwarde no angre, nor heuynes, sorowe, nor pensyfulnes, do trouble or dysquyet you. [d] To bedwarde, and also in the mornynge, vse to haue a fyre in your chambre, to wast and consume the euyl vapowres within the chambre, for the breath of man may putryfye the ayre within the cha{m}bre: Ido advertyse you not to stande nor to sytte by the fyre, [e] but stande or syt a good way of from the fyre, takynge the flauour of it, for fyre doth aryfie and doth drye vp a mannes blode, and doth make sterke the synewes and ioyntes of man. [f] In the nyght let the wyndowes of your howse, specyallye of your cha{m}bre, be closed. Whan you [Fol. E.ii.] be in your bedde,[1] [f] lye a lytle whyle on your lefte syde, and slepe on your ryght syde. And whan you do wake of your fyrste slepe, make water yf you feel your bladder charged, & than slepe on the lefte side; and looke as ofte as you do wake, so oft turne your selfe in the bedde from one syde to theother. [g] To slepe grouellynge vpon the stomacke and bely is not good, oneles the stomacke be slowe and tarde of dygestion; but better it is to laye your hande, or your bedfelowes hande, ouer your stomacke, than to lye grouellynge. [h] To slepe on the backe vpryght[2] is vtterly to be abhorred[1]: whan that you do slepe, let not your necke, nother your sholders, nother your ha{n}ds, nor feete, nor no other place of your bodye, lye bare vndiscouered. Slepe not with an emptye stomacke, nor slepe not after that you haue eaten meate one howre or two after. In your bed lye with your head somwhat hyghe, leaste that the [* Fol. E. ii.b.] meate whiche is in your stomacke, thorowe eructuacions or some other cause, ascende to the oryfe (sic) of the stomacke. [i] Letyour nyght cap be of scarlet: and this I do aduertyse you, to cause to be made a good thycke quylte of cotton, or els of [k] pure flockes or of cleane wolle, and let the couerynge of it be of whyte fustyan, and laye it on the fetherbed that you do lye on; and in your bed lye not to hote nor to colde, but in a temporaunce. Olde auncyent Doctors of physicke sayth .viii. howres of slepe in so{m}mer, and ix. in wynter, is suffycent for any man: but I do thynke that slepe oughte to be taken as the complexion of man is. [l] Whan you doryse in the mornynge, ryse with myrth and remembre God. Let your hosen be brusshed within & without, and flauer the insyde of them agaynst the fyre; vse lynnen sockes, [m] or lynnen hosen nexte your legges: whan you be out of your bedde, [n] stretche forth your [Fol. E. iii.] legges & armes, & your body; cough, and spytte, and than [o] go to your stoole to make your egestyon, and exonerate youre selfe at all tymes, that nature wolde expell. For yf you do make any restryction in kepynge your egestyon or your vryne, or ventosyte, it maye put you to dyspleasure in breadynge dyuers infyrmyties.After you haue euacuated your bodye, & [p] trussed your poyntes,[3] kayme your heade oft, and so do dyuers tymes in the day. [q] And wasshe your ha{n}des & wrestes, your face, & eyes, and your teeth, with colde water; and after y^t you be apparayled, [r] walke in your gardyn or parke, athousande pase or two. And than great and noble men doth vse to here masse, & other men that can not do so, but muste applye theyr busynes, doth [s] serue god w{i}t{h} some prayers, surrendrynge thankes to hym for hys manyfolde goodnes, with askynge mercye for theyr offences. And before you go to your refecti[Fol. E. iii.b.]on, moderatly exercise your body with some labour, or [t] playeng at the tennys, or castyng a bowle, or paysyng weyghtes or plo{m}mettes of leede in your handes, or some other thyng, to open your poores, & to augment naturall heate. [v] At dyner and supper[4] vse not to drynke sundry drynkes, and eate not of dyuers meates: but [x] feede of .ii. or .iii. dysshes at the moste. After that you haue dyned and supte, laboure not by and by after, but make a pause, syttynge or standynge vpryght the space of an howre or more with some pastyme: drynke not moch after dyner. [y] At your supper, vse lyght meates of dygestyon, and refrayne from grose meates; go not to bed with a full nor an emptye stomacke. And after your supper make a pause or you go to bed; and go to bed, as I sayde, with myrth.

[Sidenotes: [a] After Dinner, sleep standing [b] against a cupboard. [c] Before bedtime be merry. [d] Have a fire in your bedroom, [e] but stand a good way offit. [f] Shut your windows. [f] Lie first on your left side. [g] To sleep groveling on the belly, is bad; [h] on the back upright, is worse. [i] Wear a scarlet nightcap. [k] Have a flock bed over your featherbed. [l] On rising, remember God, brush your breeches, puton [m] your hose, [n] stretch, [o] go to stool. [p] Truss your points, comb your head, [q] wash your hands and face, [r] take a stroll, [s] pray to God. [t] Play at tennis, or wield weights. [v] At meals, [x] eat only of 2 or 3 dishes; [y] let supper-dishes be light.]

Furthermore as concernynge your apparell. In wynter, next your shert vse you to [a] weare a petycote of scarlet: your dowb[Fol. E.iv.]let vse at plesure: But I do aduertyse you to [b] lyne your Iacket vnder this fasshyon or maner. Bye you fyne skynnes of whyte lambe & blacke lambe. And let your skyn{n}er cut both y^e sortes of the skynnes in smale peces triangle wyse, lyke halfe a quarell of a glasse wyndowe. And than sewe togyther a [*MS. aa] whyte pece and a blacke, lyke a whole quarell of a glasse wyndowe: and so sewe vp togyther quarell wyse as moche as wyll lyne your Iacket: this furre, for holsommes, is praysed aboue sables, or any other fur. Your exteryall aparel vse accordyng to your honour. In som{m}er vse to were a scarlet petycote made of stamell or lynse wolse. In wynter and so{m}mer kepe not your bed to hote, nor bynde it to strayte; [c] kepe euer your necke warme. In somer kepe your necke and face from the sonne; vse to [d] wear gloues made of goote skyn, perfumed with Amber degrece. And beware in sta{n}dyng or lyeng on the [Fol. E.iv.b.] grounde in the reflection of the son{n}e, but be mouable. If thou shalt com{m}on or talke w{i}t{h} any man: [e] stande not styll in one place yf it be vpon y^e bare grou{n}de, or grasse, or stones: but be mouable in suche places. Stande nor syt vpon no stone or stones: Stande nor syt longe barehed vnder a vawte of stone. Also beware that you do not lye in olde cha{m}bres which be not occupyed, [f] specyally suche chambres as myse and rattes and snayles resorteth vnto: lye not in suche chambres, the whiche be depreued cleane from the sonne and open ayre; nor lye in no lowe Chambre, excepte it be boorded. Beware that you [g] take no colde on your feete and legges. And of all weather beware that you do not ryde nor go in great and Impytous wyndes. (A Compe{n}dyous Regyment or a Dyetary of helth, made in Mou{n}tpylior: Compyled by Andrewe Boorde, of Physicke Doctor. (Colophon.) Imprinted by me Robert Wyer: Dwellynge at the sygne of seynt Joh Euangelyst, in S.Martyns Parysshe, besyde Charynge Crosse.)

[Sidenotes: [a] Wear a scarlet petycote. [b] Line a jacket with white and black lambskin sewn diamond-wise. [c] Keep your neck warm. [d] Wear goatskin gloves. [e] Don't stand long on grass or stones. [f] Don't sleep in ratty rooms. [g] Don't take cold in your feet.]

[Footnote 1-1: Compare what Bulleyn says: —slepe. The night is the best time: the daie is euill: to slepe in the fielde is perilous. But vpon, or in the bedde, liyng firste vpon the right side, untill you make water: then vpon the lefte side, is good. [a]But to lye vpon the backe, with a gaping mouth, is daungerous: and many thereby are made starke ded in their slepe: through apoplexia, and obstruccion of the sinewes, of the places vitalle, animall, and nutrimentalle. Bullein's Bulwarke, The booke of the vse of sicke men and medicenes, fol. lxx. See also Sir John Harrington's directions from Ronsovius: "They that are in health, must first sleepe on the right side, because the meate may come to the liuer, which is to the stomack as a fire vnder the pot, and thereby is digested. To them which haue but weake digestion, it is good to sleepe prostrate on their bellies, or to [b] haue their bare hands on their stomackes: and to lye vpright on the backe, is to bee vtterly abhorred." p.19.

[Sidenotes to Footnote: [a] How to lie in bed. [b] Who should put their hands on their stomachs.]]

[Footnote 2: This wenche lay upright, and faste slepte. Chaucer. The Reeves Tale, l.4192, ed. Wright.]

[Footnote 3: [a] Fricacion is one of the euacuacions, yea, or clensynges of mankinde, as all the learned affirmeth: that mankinde should rise in the mornyng, and haue his apparell warme, stretchyng foorthe his handes and legges. Preparyng the bodie to the stoole, and then [b] begin with a fine Combe, to kembe the heere vp and down: then with a course warme clothe, to chafe or rubbe the hedde, necke, breast, armeholes, bellie, thighes, &c., and this is good to open the pores. 1562 Bullein's Bulwarke, The booke of the vse of sicke men and medicenes, fol. lxvij. See Vaughan below, No. 2, p.133.

[Sidenotes to Footnote: [a] Of Frication [b] and combing the head.]]

[Footnote 4: Drunkards, bench-wislers, that will quaffe untill thei are starcke staring madde like Marche Hares: Fleming-like Sinckars; brainlesse like infernall Furies. Drinkyng, braulyng, tossyng of the pitcher, staryng, pissyng[*], and sauyng your reuerence, beastly spuyng vntill midnight. Therefore let men take hede of dronke{n}nes to bedward, for feare of sodain death: although the Flemishe[**] nacion vse this horrible custome in their vnnaturall watching all the night. Bullein, fol. lxix-lxx, see also fol.xj.]

[Footnote 4*: Compare A. Borde of the "base Doche man," in his Introduction.]

[Footnote 4**: I am a Flemyng, what for all that Although I wyll be dronken other whyles as a rat. A. Borde, Introduction.]

* * * * * * * * *

William Vaughan's

Fifteen Directions to preserve Health.

(From his Naturall & Artificial Directions for health, 1602, p.57-63.)

Declare vnto mee a dayly dyet, whereby I may liue in health, and not trouble my selfe in Physicke.

(1) I will: first of all in the morning when you are about to rise vp, stretch your self strongly: for thereby the animall heate is somewhat forced into the outward partes, the memorie is quickned, and the bodie strengthened.

(2) Secondarily, rub and chafe your body with the palmes of your hands, or with a course linnen cloth; the breast, back, and belly, gently: but the armes, thighes, and legges roughly, till they seem ruddy and warme.

(3) Euacuate your selfe.

(4) Put on your apparell: which in the summer time must be for the most part silke, or buffe, made of buckes skinne, for it resisteth venime and contagious ayres: in winter your vpper garment must be of cotton or friezeadow.

(5) When you have apparelled your selfe hansomely, combe your head softly and easily with an Iuorie combe: for nothing recreateth the memorie more.

[Sidenotes: 1. Stretch yourself. 2. Rub yourself. 3. Go to stool. 4. Put on your clothes. 5. Comb your head.]

(6) Picke and rub your teeth: and because I would not haue you to bestow much cost in making dentrifices for them; [a] I will aduertise you by foure rules of importance how to keepe your teeth white and vncorruyt (sic), and also to haue a sweete breath. First, wash well your mouth when you haue eaten your meat: secondly, sleepe with your mouth somewhat open. Thirdly, spit out in the morning that which is gathered together that night in the throate: then take a linnen cloth, and rub your teeth well within and without, to take away the fumositie of the meat and the yellownesse of the teeth. For it is that which putrifieth them and infecteth the breath. But least peraduenture your teeth become loose and filthy, I will shew you [b] a water farre better then pouders, which shall fasten them, scoure the month, make sound the gums, and cause the flesh to growe againe, if it were fallen away. Take halfe a glasse-full of vineger, and as much of the water of the mastick tree (if it may easily be gotten) of rosemarie, myrrhe, mastick, bole Armoniake, Dragons herbe, roche allome, of each of them an ounce; of fine cinnamon halfe an ounce, and of fountaine water three glassefulles; mingle all well together and let it boile with a small fire, adding to it halfe a pound of honie, and taking away the scumme of it; then put in a little bengwine, and when it hath sodden a quarter of an houre, take it from the fire, and keepe it in a cleane bottle, and wash your teeth therewithall as well before meate as after; if you hould some of it in your mouth a little while, it doth much good to the head, and sweetneth the breath. Itake this water to be [c] better worth then a thousand of their dentifrices.

[Sidenotes: 6. Clean your teeth. [a] (How to keep the teeth sound and the breath sweet. [b] Use Vaughan's Water made after this recipe. [c] It's better than 1000 Dentrifices.)]

(7) Wash your face, eyes, eares and hands, with fountaine water. Ihave knowne diuers students which vsed to bathe their eyes onely in well water twise a day, whereby they preserued their eyesight free from all passions and bloudsheds, and sharpened their memories maruaylously. You may sometimes bathe your eyes in rosewater, fennell water, or eyebright water, if you please; but I know for certaintie, that you neede them not as long as you vse good fountaine water. Moreouer, least you by old age or some other meanes doe waxe dimme of sight, Iwill declare vnto you, [a] the best and safest remedie which I knowe, and this it is: Take of the distilled waters of verueine, bettonie, and fennell one ounce and a halfe, then take one ounce of white wine, one drachme of Tutia (if you may easilie come by it) two drachmes of sugarcandy, one drachme of Aloes Epatick, two drachmes of womans milke, and one scruple of Camphire: beat those into pouder, which are to be beaten, and infuse them together for foure and twenty houres space, and then straine them, and so vse it when you list.

[Sidenotes: 7. Wash. [a] The best remedy for dim sight.]

(8) When you haue finished these, say your morning prayers, and desire God to blesse you, to preserue you from all daungers, and to direct you in all your actions. For the feare of God (as it is written) is the beginning of wisedome: and without his protection whatsoeuer you take in hand, shall fall to ruine. Therefore see that you be mindfull of him, and remember that to that intent you were borne, to weet, to set foorth his glorie and most holy name.

(9) Goe about your businesse circumspectly, and endeauour to banish all cares and cogitations, which are the onely baits of wickednesse. [a] Defraud no man of his right: for what measure you giue vnto your neighbour, that measure shall you receiue. And finally, imprint this saying deepely in your mind: Aman is but a steward of his owne goods; wherof God one day will demaund an account.

[Sidenotes: 8. Say your Prayers. 9. Set to work. [a] Be honest.]

(10) Eate three meales a day vntill you come to the age of fourtie yeares: as, your breakefast, dinner, and supper; yet, that betweene breakefast and dinner there be the space of foure houres, and betwixt dinner and supper seauen houres: the breakfast must be lesse then dinner, and the dinner somewhat lesse then supper.

[Sidenote: 10. Eat only three meals a day.]

[a] In the beginning of meales, eate such meates as will make the belly soluble, and let grosse meats be the last. Content your selfe with one kind of meate, for diuersities hurt the body, by reason that meats are not all of one qualitie: Some are easily digested, others againe are heauy, and will lie a long time vpon the stomack: also, the eating of sundrie sorts of meat require often [b] pottes of drinke, which hinder concoction; like as we see often putting of water into the meat-potte to hinder it from seething. Our stomack is our bodies kitchin, which being distempered, how can we liue in temperate order: drinke not aboue foure times, and that moderately, at each meale: least the belly-God hale you at length captiue into his prison house of gurmandise, where you shall be afflicted with as many diseases as you haue deuoured dishes of sundry sorts. [c] The cups whereof you drinke, should be of siluer, or siluer and gilt.

[Sidenotes: [a] Eat light food before heavy. [b] Drink hinders digestion. [c] Use silver cups.]

(11) Labour not either your mind or body presently after meales: rather sit a while and discourse of some pleasant matters: when you haue ended your confabulations, wash your face and mouth with cold waters, then go to your chamber, and make cleane your teeth with your tooth-picker, which should be either of iuorie, silver, or gold. Watch not too long after supper, but depart within two hours to bed. But if necessitie compell you to watch longer then ordinary, then be sure to augment your sleepe the next morning; that you may recompence nature, which otherwise through your watching would not a little be impaired.

[Sidenote: 11. Don't work directly after meals, but talk, wash, and clean your teeth.]

(12) Put of your clothes in winter by the fire side: and cause your bed to bee heated with a warming panne: vnless your pretence bee to harden your members, and to apply your selfe vnto militarie discipline. This outward heating doth wonderfully comfort the inward heat, it helpeth concoction, and consumeth moisture.

[Sidenote: 12. Undress by the fire in winter.]

(13) Remember before you rest, to chew down two or three drachmes of mastick: for it will preserue your body from bad humours.

(14) Pray feruently to God, before you sleepe, to inspire you with his grace, to defend you from all perils and subtelties of wicked fiends, and to prosper you in all your affaires: and then lay aside your cares and businesse, as well publicke as priuate: for that night, in so doing, you shall slepe more quietly. Make water at least once, and cast it out: but in the morning [a] make water in an vrinal: that by looking on it, you may ghesse some what of the state of your body. Sleep first on your right side with your mouth open, and [b] let your night cappe haue a hole in the top, through which the vapour may goe out.

(15) In the morning remember your affayres, and if you be troubled with rheumes, as soone as you haue risen, vse diatrion piperion, or eate white pepper now and then, and you shall be holpen.

FINIS.

[Sidenotes: 13. Before bed, chew Mastic, and 14. Pray to God. [a] Look at your water in a Urinal. [b] Have a hole in your nightcap. 15. Against rheums, eat white pepper.]

* * * * * * * * *

The Dyet for every Day.

(FROM

Sir John Harington's 'Schoole of Salerne,' 2nd part. The Preservation of Health, or a Dyet for the Healthfull Man, 1624, p.358.)

. . first I will begin with the dyet for every day.

In the beginning when you arise from the bed, [a] extend forth all your members, for by this meanes the animal spirits are drawne to the outward members, the [* Page36.] braine is made subtill, & the body strengthened. Then [b] rub the whole body somewhat with the palmes, the brest, back and belly gently, but the armes and legs with the hands, either with warm linnen: [c] next, the head is to be scrubbed fro{m} the forepart to the hinderpart very lightly. After you are risen, Iwill that you [d] defend with all care and diligence your head, necke, and feet, from all cold in the morning; for there is no doubt, but in the morning and euening the cold doth offend more, then it doth about noone tide, by reason of the weaknes of the Sun-beames. [e] Put on your clothes neat and cleane: in the Summer season, first wash with cleane pure water, before described; [f] but in the Winter season sit somewhat by the fire, not made with turfe or stinking coale, but with oake or other wood that burneth cleare, for our bodies are somewhat affected with our clothes, and as strength is increased by the vse of meat and drinke, and our life defended and preserued; and so our garments doe conserue the heat of our hodies, and doe driue away colds: so that as diet and apparel may seeme alike, so in either of them a like diligence is to be preferred.

[Sidenotes: [a] Stretch your limbs, [b] rub your body [c] and head; [d] protect yourself from cold; [e] dress, washing in Summer, [f] warming yourself in Winter.]

[a] In the Summer-time I chiefly commend garments [Page 37.] of Harts-skinnes, and Calues-skins, for the Hart is a creature of long life, and resisteth poyson and Serpents; therefore I my selfe vse garments of the like sort for the winter season, also neuerthelesse lined with good linnen. Next I doe iudge it not to bee much amisse to vse garments of Silke or Bombace, or of purple: also of Martyn or [b] Wolfe-skinnes, or made of Fox skinnes, Isuppose to be good for the winter; notwithstanding in the time of Pestilence, apparell of Silke and skinnes is condemned, because it doth easily admit and receiue the contagious ayre, and doth retain it long. After the body is well clothed, [c] kembe your head wel with an Iuory comb, from the forehead to the backe-part, drawing the comb some forty times at the least; then [d] wash all the instruments of the sences, as the eies, the ears, the nostrils, the mouth, the tongue, the teeth, and all the face with cold water; and the eyes are not only to be washed, but being open plainly, immerg'd: and [e] the gumme and foulnes of the eie-lids that do there stick, to remoue; somtimes also to besprinkle the water with Rose-water or Fenel-water, also [f] rubb the neck well with [*Page38.] a linnen napking somewhat course, for these things doe confirme the whole body; it maketh the mind more cheerefull, and conserueth the sight. In this place it pleaseth me to adioyne some Dentifrices or clensers of teeth, waters not only to make the teeth white, but also to conserue them, with some medicines also to conserue the sight.....

[Sidenotes: [a] In Summer wear deer's and calves' skins, [b] in Winter, wolf and fox skins. [c] Comb your head 40 times, [d] wash your face, [e] clean your eyelids, [f] rub your neck well.]

* * * * * * * * *

On Rising, Diet, and Going to Bed.

(FROM

Sir John Harington's 'Schoole of Salerne,' 2nd part.

The Preservation of Health, or a Dyet for the Healthfull Man, 1624, p.358.)

Also to prosecute our former purpose, [a] when you arise in the morning, to auoyd all superfluities, as well by vrine as by the belly, which doe at the least euery day. Auoid also from the nostrils and the lungs all filthy matter, as wel by clensing, as by spittle, and [b] clense the face, head, and whole body; & loue you to be cleane and wel apparelled, for from our cradles let vs abhor vncleannes, which neither nature or reason can endure. Whe{n} you haue done these things, remember to [c] powre foorth your prayers vnto God with a cleare voice, that the day may be happy and prosperous vnto you, that God may direct your actions to the glory of his name, the profit of your country, & the conseruation of your bodies. Then [d] walke ye gently, and [e] what excrements soeuer do slip down to the inferiour parts, being excited by [*Page42.] naturall heate, the excretion thereof shall the better succeed.

[Sidenotes: [a] On rising, empty your bladder and belly, nose and lungs. [b] Cleanse your whole body. [c] Say your Prayers. [d] Walk gently, [e] go to stool.]

As for your businesses, whether they be publike or priuate, let them be done with a certaine honesty; then afterwards let your hunting iourneyes bee performed; [a] apply your selues to studie and serious businesse the houres of the fore-noone, and so likewise in the after-noone, till twoor three houres before supper: [b] alwaies in your hands vse eyther Corall or yellow Amber, or a Chalcedonium, or a sweet Pommander, or some like precious stone to be worne [c] in a ring vpon the little finger of the left hand: haue in your rings eyther a Smaragd, aSaphire, or a Draconites, which you shall beare for an ornament: for in stones, as also in hearbes, there is great efficacie and vertue, but they are not altogether perceived by vs: [d] hold sometime in your mouth eyther a Hyacinth, or a Crystall, or a Granat, or pure Gold, or Siluer, or else sometimes pure Sugar-candy. For Aristotle doth affirme, and so doth Albertus Magnus, that a Smaragd worne about the necke, is good against the Falling-sicknes: for [e] surely the vertue of an hearbe is great, but much more the vertue of a precious [*Page43.] stone, which is very likely that they are endued with occult and hidden vertues.

[Sidenotes: [a] Work in the forenoon. [b] Always wear a precious stone [c] in a ring; [d] hold a crystal in your mouth; [e] for the virtue of precious stones is great.]

[a] Feede onely twice a day, when yee are at mans age: neuerthelesse to those that are subiect to choller, it is lawfull to feede often: beginne alwayes your dinner and supper with the more liquid meates, sometimes with drinkes. [b] In the time betweene dinner and supper, abstain altogether from cups, vnlesse necessitie or custome doe require the same: notwithstanding the same custome being so vitious, must be by little and little changed.

[c] I would not that you should obserue a certaine houre, either for dinners or suppers, as I haue sufficiently told you before, lest that daily custome should be altered into nature: and after this intermission of this custome of nature, hurt may follow; for custome doth imitate nature, and that which is accustomable, the very same thing is now become naturall.

[Sidenotes: [a] Eat only twice a day. [b] Don't drink between dinner and supper. [c] Don't have one fixed hour for your meals.]

Take your meate in the hotte time of Summer in cold places, but [a] in the Winter let there bee a bright fire, and take it in hotte places, your parlors or Chambers being first purged and ayred with suffumigations, which I would not haue you to [*Page44.] enter before the suffumigation bee plainely extinct, lest you draw the fume by reason of the odour.

And seeing one and the same order of diet doth not promiscuously agree with all men, take your meate in order, as is before said, and [b] sometimes also intermit the vse of meats for a whole day together, because through hunger, the faults of the stomacke which haue beene taken eyther by much drinking or surfetting, or by any other meanes, may be depelled and remoued.

By this meanes also your bodies shall be better accustomed to endure and suffer hunger and fasting, eyther in iourneyes or wars. [c] Let your suppers bee more larger then your dinners, vnlesse nightly diseases or some distilations doe afflict you.

[Sidenotes: [a] In Winter eatin hot well-aired places. [b] Fast for a day now and then. [c] Eat more at supper than dinner.]

[a] After meat taken, neither labour in body nor mind must be vsed, and wash the face and mouth with cold water, clense the teeth either with Iuory, or a Harts horne, or some picker of pure siluer or gold.

After your banquets, [b] passe an houre or two in pleasant talkes, or walke yee very gently and soberly, [c] neither vse much watchings long in the night, but the space of two howres goe to your bed; but if honest [*Page45.] businesse doe require you to watch, then sleepe afterwards so much the longer, that your sleepe may well recompence your former watchings. [d] Before that you go to your bed, [e] gently smooth down your head, armes, and shoulders, the back and all the body, with a gentle and soft rubbing, vnlesse you meane to do it in the morning to mooue distribution, whose time is best to be done in the morning.

[Sidenotes: [a] After meals, wash your face, and clean your teeth, [b] chat and walk soberly. [c] Don't sit up late. [d] Before bed, [e] rub your body gently.]

[a] In the Winter, sitting by the fire, put off your garments, and dry your feet by the fire, neuerthelesse auoyd the heat and the smoke, because it is very hurtfull both to the lungs, and the eyes.

In the Winter time, [b] warme well your garments at the fire, and warm the linings of the same, for it helpeth concoction, and remoueth all humidity and moysture. But my father did not allow of this custome, warning men of strength, and those that are borne for the Common-wealth, not to accustom themselves to such kind of softnesse, which doe weaken our bodies. Also [c] when you put off your garments to go to bed, then put away all your cogitations, & lay them aside, whether they be publike or priuate, for when all your [* Page46.] members be free from all cares, you shall then sleep the quieter, concoction and the other naturall actions shall best be performed.

But [d] in the morning when you rise againe, resume to your selues your former dayes thoughts and cares; for this precept my Father had often in his mouth, therfore I deliuer it vnto you as the more worthy of your obseruation.

[Sidenotes: [a] Undress by a fire in Winter, [b] and warm your garments well. [c] Put off your cares with your clothes, [d] and take them up again in the morning.]

* * * * * * * * *

Recipes.

[From Harleian MS. 5401, ab. 1480-1500 A.D.]

FRUTURS. (page 194 or fol. 69 b.)

R{ecipe} [1] e cromys of whyte brede, & swete apyls, & [gh]okk{is} of egg{is}, & bray a{m} wele, & temp{er} it w{i}t{h} wyne, & make it to sethe; & when it is thyk, do {er}-to gode spyces, gyng{er} & gali{n}gay & canyll & clows, & s{erve} it forth{e}. (See also Liber Cure Cocorum, p.39-40.)

FRUTURS OF FYGIS. (p.197 or fol. 98.)

R{ecipe} & make bature of flour{e}, ale, pep{er} & saferon, w{i}t{h} o{er} spices; an cast a{m}[2] in to a frying pann w{i}t{h} bat{ur}, & ole, & bake a{m} & s{erve}. (See another recipe in Household Ordinances, p.450, under the head "Turtelettys of Fruture.")

IUSSELL. (p.198 or fol. 98 b.)

R{ecipe} brede gratyd, & egg{is}; & swyng a{m} to-gyder{e}, & do {er}to sawge, & saferon, & salt; an take gode broth{e}, & cast it {er}-to, & bole it enforesayd, & do {er}-to as to charlete &c. (See also Liber Cure Cocorum, p.11; Jussel of Flesh, Household Ordinances, p.462; Jussel enforsed, p.463; Jussel of Fysshe, p.469.)

MAWMENY. (p.201 or fol. 100.)

R{ecipe} brawne of Capons or of he{n}nys, & dry a{m} wele, & towse a{m} small{e}; an take thyk mylk of almonds, & put e saide braw {er}-to, & styr it wele ou{er} e fyre, & seson it w{i}t{h} sug{er}, & powd{er} of Canell{e}, w{i}t{h} mase, quibibs, & anneys in co{n}fete, & s{erve} it forth{e}. (See also the recipe "For to make momene" in Liber Cure Cocorum, p.26; for "Mawmene for xl. Mees" in Household Ordinances, p.455; and "Mawmene to Potage," p.430.)

FRETOURE. (Harl. MS. 276.)

Vyaunde leche. L.iiii.

Fretoure Take whete Floure, Ale, [Gh]est, Safroun, & Salt, & bete alle to-gederys as ikke as {o}u schuldyst make o{er} bature in fleyssche tyme, & an take fayre Applys, & kut hem in maner of Fretourys, & wete hem in e bature vp on downe, & frye hem in fayre Oyle, & caste hem in a dyssche, & caste Sugr{e} er-on, & serue forth. [The recipe for "Tansye" is No. l.vi.]



Recipes.

[From Harl. MS. 279, ab. 1430-40 A.D. A pretty MS. that ought to be printed.]

Potage dyuers .lxiij. (fol. 15 a.)

Harys in cyueye. Take Harys, & Fle hem, & make hem clene, an hacke hem in gobettys, & sethe hem in Watere & Salt a lytylle; an take Pepyr, an Safroun, an Brede, y-grounde y-fere, & temper it wyth Ale. an take Oynonys & Percely y-mynced smal to-gederys, & sethe hem be hem self, & afterward take & do er-to a porcyon of vynegre, & dresse in. (See also the recipe for "Harus in Cyue" in Liber Cure Cocorum, p.21, & that for "Conyngus in cyue" p.20. Chive is a kind of small onion.)

.lxxiii. (fol. 16 a.)

Conyngys in cyveye. Take Conyngys, an fle hem & see hem, & make lyke ou woldyst make a sewe, saue alle to-choppe hem, & caste Safroun & lyer er-to, & Wyne. (See also "Conyngus in cyue" in L.C.C., p.20; and "Conynges in Cyue" in Household Ordinances, p.434.)

xv. (fol. 39 b.)

Doucettes. Take Creme a gode cupfulle, & put it on a straynoure, anne take [gh]olkys of Eyroun, & put er-to, & a lytel mylke; en strayne it row a straynoure in-to a bolle; en take Sugre y-now, & put er-to, or ellys hony for defaute [fol. 40.] of Sugre; an coloure it w{i}t{h} Safroun; an take in cofyns, & put it in e ovynne lere, & lat hem ben hardyd; an take a dyssshe y-fastenyd on e pelys ende, & pore in comade in-to e dyssche, & fro e dyssche in-to e cofyns; & whan ey don a-ryse Wel, teke hem out, & serue hem forth.

xxxvij. (fol. 43 b.)

Doucettes. Take Porke & hakke it smal, & Eyroun y-mellyd to-gederys, & a lytel Milke, & melle hem to-gederys w{i}t{h} Hony & Pepir, & bake hem in a cofyn, & serue forth.

xxxviij.

Doucettes a-forcyd. Take Almaunde Milke & [gh]olkys of Eyroun y-mellid to-gederys, Safroun, Salt, & Hony: dry in cofyn, & ley in Maribonys er-on, & s{erue} f{orth}.

[Footnote 1: The is always y in Harl. 5401.]

[Footnote 2: that is, the figs.]

* * * * * * * * *

Errata (noted by transcriber):

Andrewe: +Aaurata is a fysshe in the see [text unchanged: each paragraph in original has large display capital followed by capital second letter of word] Cap. lxvij. [text unchanged: error for lxxij?] Cap. lxxix. ... as Phisiologua saith [text unchanged: error for 'Phisiologus'?]

Vaughan, Fifteen Directions: one drachme of Tutia [Tntia]

Harington, On Rising, Diet, and Going to Bed: till twoor three houres / before supper [spacing unchanged]

Recipes: an take a dyssshe y-fastenyd [text unchanged]

* * * * * * * * * * * * * *

The Boke of Keruynge.

[Transcriber's Note:

Sidenotes, generally marked with lower-case letters [a] [b], are grouped after each section. Those that began with numbers in the original text are marked with bracketed numerals [1] [2]. There are no numbered footnotes in this selection. Textnotes have been marked with capital letters and grouped at the end, after the editor's Notes. Headnotes are interlaced with the table of contents; they will also appear in their original locations in the text.

Apart from notes and their references, all bracketed text is in the original.]

The

Boke of Keruynge,

[that is to say,

The boke of Seruyce & Keruynge and Sewynge & all Maner of Offyce in his kynde vnto a Prynce or ony other Estate, & all the Feestes in the yere.]

Enprynted by Wynkyn de Worde at London in Flete Strete at the sygne of the Sonne. The yere of our Lorde God. M.CCCC.xiij.

[and now reprinted, 1867.]

CONTENTS.

(From the Headings in the Text, &c.)

PAGE Termes of a Keruer 151 Butler and Panter (Yoman of the Seller and Ewery) 152 [Headnote: THE BUTLER AND PANTER'S DUTIES.] The Names of Wynes 153 For to make Ypocras 153 [Headnote: FOR TO MAKE YPOCRAS, AND LAYE THE CLOTH.] To laye the Clothe 154 [Headnote: HOW TO WAIT AT TABLE.] To wrappe your Soueraynes Brede stately 155 Of the Surnape 155 Sewynge of Flesshe, & Seruyce (Succession of Dishes) 156 [Headnote: SEWYNGE OF FLESSHE.] The Keruynge of Flesshe, & Seruyce (How to carve) 157 [Headnote: KERUYNGE OF FLESSHE.] Sauces for all maner of Fowles 159 [Headnote: SAUCES FOR FOWLES.] Feestes and Seruyce from Eester vnto Whytsondaye 160 [Headnote: FEESTES AND SERUYCE.] Keruyng of all maner of Fowles 161 [Headnote: KERUYNG OF ALL MANER OF FOWLES.] Of the First & Second Courses, & the Sauces for them 163 Feestes and Seruyce from the feest of Saynt Iohn the Baptist vnto Myghelmasse 164 [Headnote: THE SERVICE FROM MIDSUMMER TO CHRISTMAS.] Feestes and Seruyce from the feest of Saynt Myghell vnto the feest of Chrystynmasse 164 Of the skin & wholesomeness of certain Birds 165 Sewynge of Fysshe 166 [Headnote: SEWYNGE OF FYSSHE.] Keruynge of Fysshe 166 [Headnote: KERUYNGE OF FYSSHE.] Sauces for all maner of Fysshe 168 [Headnote: SAUCES FOR FYSSHE.] The Chaumberlayne 168 [Headnote: THE CHAUMBERLAYNE.] Of the Marshall and the Vssher 170 [Headnote: OF THE MARSHALL AND THE VSSHER.] Notes 173

[Fol. A 1.] The Boke of Keruynge.

[Fol. A 1b.] Here begynneth the boke of keruynge and sewynge / and all the feestes in the yere, for the seruyce of a prynce or ony other estate, as ye shall fy{n}de eche offyce, the seruyce accordynge, in the boke folowynge.

[Sidenote: The Book of Carving and Arranging; and the Dishes for all the Feasts in the year.]

Termes of a Keruer.

+Breke that dere [a] lesche y^t brawne rere that goose lyft that swanne sauce that capon [b] spoyle that henne frusshe that chekyn [c] vnbrace that malarde vnlace that cony dysmembre that heron dysplaye that crane dysfygure that pecocke vnioynt that bytture [d] vntache that curlewe alaye that fesande wynge that partryche wynge that quayle mynce that plouer thye that pegyon [e] border that pasty thye that wodcocke [f] thye all maner of small byrdes tymbre that fyre

tyere that egge chyne that samon strynge that lampraye [g] splatte that pyke sauce that playce sauce that tenche splaye that breme syde that haddocke tuske that barbell culpon that troute [h] fynne that cheuen transsene that ele traunche that sturgyon vndertraunche y^t purpos tayme that crabbe [i] barbe that lopster

Here hendeth the goodly termes.

[Sidenotes: Terms of a Carver: [a] Slice brawn, [b] spoil a hen, [c] unbrace a mallard, [d] untache a curlew, [e] border a pasty, [f] thigh small birds, [g] splat a pike, [h] fin a chub, [i] barb a lobster]

[Headnote: THE BUTLER AND PANTER'S DUTIES.]

Here begynneth Butler and Panter.

[a] +Thou shalte be Butler and Panter all the fyrst yere / and ye muste haue thre pantry knyues / one knyfe to square tre{n}choure loues / an other to be a [Fol. A ii.] chyppere / the thyrde shall be sharpe to make smothe tre{n}choures / than chyppe your soueraynes brede hote, and all other brede let it be a daye olde / housholde brede thre dayes olde / [b]trenchour brede foure dayes olde / than loke your salte by whyte and drye / the planer made of Iuory, two inches brode & thre inches longe / & loke that youre salte seller lydde touche not the salte / tha{n} loke your table clothes, towelles, and napkyns, be fayre folden in a cheste or ha{n}ged vpon a perche / than loke your table knyues be fayre pullysshed, & your spones clene / [c]than loke ye haue two tarryours, a more & a lesse, & wyne cannelles of boxe made accordynge / a sharpe gymlot & faucettes. And whan ye sette a pype on broche, do thus / set it foure fynger brede aboue y^e nether chyme vpwardes aslaunte / and than shall y^e lyes neuer a-ryse. [d]Also loke ye haue in all seasons[A] butter, chese, apples, peres, nottes, plommes, grapes, dates, fygges & raysyns, compost, grene gynger and chardequynce. Serue fastynge butter, plommes, damesons, cheryes, and grapes, after mete, peres, nottes, strawberyes, hurtelberyes, & hard chese. Also brandrels or pepyns with carawey in confetes. After souper, rost apples & peres, with blaunche poudre, & harde chese / [e]be ware of cowe creme, & of good strawberyes, hurtelberyes, Iouncat, for these wyll make your souerayne seke but he ete harde chese / [f]harde chese hath these operacyo{n}s / it wyll kepe y^e stomacke open / butt{er} is holsome fyrst & last, for it wyll do awaye all poyso{ns} / [g]mylke, creme, & Iouncat, they wyll close the mawe, & so dooth a posset / therfore ete harde chese, & drynke romney modo{n} / beware of grene sallettes & rawe fruytes, for they wyll make your sourayne seke / therfore set no mo-[Fol. A ii.b.]che [h]by suche metes as wyll set your tethe on edge; therfore ete an almonde & harde chese / but ete non moche chese without romney modon. Also yf dyuers dry{n}kes, yf theyr fumosytees haue dyspleased your souerayne, [i]let hy{m} ete a rawe apple, and y^e fumosytees wyll cease: mesure is a mery mene & it be well vsed / abstyne{n}ce is to be praysed wha{n} god therwith is pleased. [k]Also take good hede of your wynes euery nyght with a candell, bothe rede wyne and swete wyne, & loke they reboyle nor leke not / & wasshe y^e pype hedes euery nyght w{i}t{h} colde water / & loke ye haue a chynchynge yron, addes, and lynen clothes, yf nede be / [l]& yf the[y] reboyle, ye shall knowe by the hyssynge / therfore kepe an empty pype with y^e lyes of coloured rose, & drawe the reboyled wyne to y^e lyes, & it shal helpe it. Also yf your swete wyne pale, drawe it in to a romney vessell for lessynge.

[Sidenotes: [a] The Butler has 3 knives: 1. a squarer, 2. a chipper, 3.asmoother. [b] Trencher-bread must be 4 days old; the Salt-Planer of ivory; table cloths kept in a chest, or hung on a perch. [c] To broach a Pipe, have 2 augers, funnels, and tubes, and pierce the Pipe 4 inches from the bottom. [d] Always have ready fruits and hard cheese. [e] Beware of cow cream. [f] Hard cheese is aperient, and keeps off poison. [g] Milk and Junket close the Maw. [h] For food that sets your teeth on edge, eat an almond and hard cheese. [i] A raw apple will cure indigestion. [k] See every night that your wines don't boil over or leak. [l] You'll know their fermenting by their hissing.]

Here foloweth the names of wynes.

Reed wyne / whyte wyne / clared wyne / osey / capryke / ca{m}polet / renysshe wyne / maluesey / bastarde / tyer, romney / muscadell / clarrey / raspys / vernage / vernage wyne cut / pymente and ypocras.

[Sidenotes: Names of Wines Campolet, Rhenish, &c]

[Headnote: FOR TO MAKE YPOCRAS, AND LAYE THE CLOTH.]

[Headnote: HOW TO WAIT AT TABLE.]

For to make ypocras.

[a] Take gy{n}ger / peper / graynes / canell / synamon / suger and tornsole / than loke ye haue fyue or syxe bagges for your ypocras to renne in, & a perche that your renners may ren on / than muste ye haue .vi. peautre basyns to stande vnder your bagges / than loke your spyce be redy / & your gynger well pared or it be beten [Fol. A iii.] to poudre / [b]than loke your stalkes of synamon be well coloured; & swete canell is not so gentyll in operacyon; synamon is hote and drye / graynes of paradico[B] be{n} hote and moyste / gynger / graynes / longe peper / and suger, ben hote and moyst / synamo{n} / canell, & rede wyne, ben hote and drye / tornsole is holsome / for reed wyne colourynge. Now knowe ye the proporcyons of your ypocras / [c]than bete your poudres eche by themselfe, & put them in bladders, & hange your bagges sure, that no bage touche other / but let eche basyn touche other; let the fyrste basyn be of a galon, and eche of the other of a potell / than put in your basyn a galo{n} of reed wyne, put thereto your poudres, and styre them well / than put them in to the fyrste bagge, and let it renne / than put them in to the seconde bagge / than take a pece in your hande, and assaye yf it be stronge of gynger / and alaye it with synamon / and it be stro[{n}]ge of synamon / alaye it with suger / and loke ye lette it renne thrughe syxe renners / & your ypocras shall be the fyner / than put your ypocras in to a close vessell, and [d]kepe the receyte / for it wyll serue for sewes / than serue your souerayne with wafers and ypocras. [e]Also loke your composte be fayre and clene / and your ale fyue dayes olde or men drynke it / tha{n} kepe your hous of offyce clene, & be curtoys of answere to eche persone, and loke ye gyue no persone noo dowled drynke / for it wyll breke y^e scabbe. [f]And whan ye laye the clothe, wype y^e borde clene with a cloute / than [g]laye a cloth, a couche, it is called, take your felawe that one ende, & holde you that other ende, than drawe the clothe straught, the bought on y^e vtter edge / take the vtter parte, & hange it euen / than take the thyrde clothe, and lay y^e bought on the inner [Fol. A iii.b.] edge / and laye estat with the vpper parte halfe a fote brode / than [h]couer thy cupborde and thyn ewery with the towell of dyaper / than take thy towell about thy necke, and laye that one syde of y^e towell vpon thy lefte arme / and there-on laye your soueraynes napkyn / and laye on thyn arme seuen loues of brede, with thre or foure trenchour loues, with the ende of y^e towell in the lefte hande, as the maner is / than [i]take thy salte seller in thy lefte hande, and take the ende of y^e towell in your ryght hande to bere in spones and knyues / than [k]set your salt on the ryght syde where your souerayne shall sytte, and on y^e lefte syde the salte set your trenchours / than [l]laye your knyues, & set your brede, one lofe by an other / your spones, and your napkyns fayre folden besyde your brede / than couer your brede and trenchoures, spones and knyues / & at euery ende of y^e table set a salte seller with two treachour [C]loues / [m]and yf ye wyll wrappe your soueraynes brede stately, ye muste [n]square and proporcyon your brede, and se that no lofe be more than an other / and than shall ye make your wrapper man[er]ly / than take a towell of reynes of two yerdes and an halfe, and take the towell by y^e endes double, and laye it on the table / than take the ende of y^e bought a handfull in your hande, and wrappe it harde, and laye the ende so wrapped bytwene two towelles; vpon that ende so wrapped, lay your brede, botom to botom, syxe or seuen loues / than set your brede manerly in fourme / and whan your soueraynes table is thus arayed, [o]couer all other bordes with salte, trenchoures, & cuppes. [p]Also so[D] thyn ewery be arayed with basyns & ewers, & water hote & colde / and se' ye haue napkyns, cuppes, & spones / & se your pottes for wyne [Fol. A 4.] and ale be made clene, and [q]to y^e surnape make ye curtesy with a clothe vnder a fayre double napry / tha{n} take e towelles ende nexte you / & the vtter ende of the clothe on the vtter syde of the table, & holde these thre endes atones, & folde them atones, that a plyte passe not a fote brode / than laye it euen there it sholde lye. [r]And after mete wasshe with that that is at y^e ryghte ende of the table / ye muste guyde it out, and the marshall must conuey it / and loke on eche clothe the ryght syde be outwarde, & drawe it streyght / than must ye reyse the vpper parte of y^e towell, & laye it w{i}t{h}-out ony gronynge / and at euery ende of y^e towell [s]ye must conuey halfe a yerde that y^e sewer may make estate reuerently, and let it be. [t]And whan your souerayne hath wasshen, drawe y^e surnape euen / than bere the surnape to the myddes of the borde & take it vp before your souerayne, & bere it in to y^e ewery agayne. [v]And whan your souerayne it[E] set, loke your towell be aboute your necke / than make your souerayne curtesy / than vncouer your brede & set it by the salte & laye your napkyn, knyfe, & spone, afore hym / than knele on your knee tyll the purpayne passe eyght loues / & loke ye set at y^e endes of y^e table foure loues at a messe / and se that euery persone haue napkyn and spone / [x]& wayte well to y^e sewer how many dysshes be couered; y^e so many cuppes couer ye / than serue ye forth the table manerly y^t euery man may speke your curtesy.

[Sidenotes: To make Ypocras. [a] Take spices; put 6 bags on a perch, 6 pewter basins under, ginger and cinnamon. [b] (Of the qualities of spices.) [c] Pound each spice separately, put 'em in bladders, and hang 'em in your bags, add a gallon of red wine to 'em, stir it well, run it through two bags, taste it, pass it through 6 runners, and put it in a close vessel. [d] Keep the dregs for cooking. [e] Have your Compost clean, and your ale 5 days old, but not dead. [f] To lay the Cloth. [g] Put on a couch, then a second cloth, the fold on the outer edge; a third, the fold on the inner edge. [h] Cover your cupboard, put a towel round your neck, one side lying on your left arm; on that, 7 loaves of eating bread and 4 trencher loaves. [i] In your left hand a saltcellar, in your right the towel. [k] Set the saltcellar on your lord's right, and trenchers on the left of it. [l] Lay knives, bread, spoons, napkins, and cover 'em up. [m] To wrap your Lord's bread stately. [n] Square the loaves; take a Reynes towel 2 yards long by the ends; put it on the table, pinch up a handful of one end, and lay it between 2 towels, and on it lay your 6 or 7 loaves bottom to bottom. [o] Put salt, cups, &c., on the other tables. [p] See that your Ewery is properly supplied, and your ale-pots kept clean. [q] To arrange the Surnape. Put a cloth under a double towel, hold 3 ends together, fold them in a foot-broad pleat, and lay it smooth. [r] After washing, the Marshal must carry the surnape out. [s] Leave out half a yard to make estate. [t] When your lord has washed, remove the Surnape. [v] When he is seated, salute him, uncover your bread, kneel on your knee till 8 loaves are served out (?) [x] Provide as many cups as dishes.]

[Headnote: SEWYNGE OF FLESSHE.]

Here endeth of the Butler and Panter, yoman of the seller and ewery. And here foloweth sewynge of flesshe.

[Fol. A 4b.] +The [a] sewer muste sewe, & from the borde conuey all maner of potages, metes, & sauces / & euery daye comon with the coke, and vndersta{n}de & wyte how many dysshes shall be, and speke with the panter and offycers of y^e spycery for fruytes that shall be ete{n} fastynge. Than goo to the borde of sewynge, and se ye haue offycers redy to conuey, & seruauntes for to bere, your dysshes. Also yf marshall, squyers, and seruauntes of armes, bo[F] there, tha{n} serue forth your souerayne withouten blame.

[Sidenote: ewynge of]

Seruyce.

[1] Fyrste sette ye forthe mustarde and brawne, potage, befe, motton stewed. [2]Fesande / swanne / capon / pygge, venyson bake / custarde / and leche lombarde. [3]Fruyter vaunte, with a subtylte, two potages, blau{n}che ma{n}ger, and gelly. [4]For standarde, venyson roste, kydde, fawne & cony / bustarde, storke, crane, pecocke with his tayle, hero{n}sewe, bytture, woodcocke, partryche, plouer, rabettes, grete byrdes, larkes / [5]doucettes, paynpuffe, whyte leche, ambre / gelly, creme of almondes, curlewe, brewe, snytes, quayle, sparowes, martynet, perche i{n} gelly / petyperuys[G], quy{n}ces bake / leche dewgarde, fruyter fayge, blandrelles or pepyns with carawaye in co{n}fettes, wafers and ypocras, they be a-greable. [b]Now this feest is done, voyde ye the table.

[Sidenotes: [a] The Sewer or arranger of dishes must ascertain what dishes and fruits are prepared daily for dinner; and he must have people ready to carry up the dishes. The Succession of Dishes. 1. Brawn, &c. 2. Pheasant, &c. 3. Meat Fritters, &c 4. For a standard, a peacock with his tail. 5. Doucettes, Paynpuff, Brew, Snipe, Petyperuys and Fayge, Caraways, &c. [b] Clear the table]

[Headnote: KERUYNGE OF FLESSHE.]

Here endeth the sewynge of flesshe. And begynneth the keruynge of flesshe.

+The keruer must knowe the keruynge and the fayre ha{n}dlynge of a knyfe, and how ye shall seche al maner of fowle / your knyfe muste be fayre and [Fol. A 5.] [a]your ha{n}des muste be clene; & passe not two fyngers & a thombe vpon your knyfe. In y^e myddes of your ha{n}de set the halfe sure, vnlassynge y^e mynsy{n}ge wich[H] two fy{n}gers & a thombe; keruynge of brede, layenge, & voydynge of crommes, with two fyngers and a thombe / loke ye haue y^e cure / set neuer on fysshe / flesshe / beest / ne fowle, more than two fyngers and a thombe / than take your lofe in your lefte hande, & holde your knyfe surely; enbrewe not the table clothe / but [b]wype vpon your napkyn / than take your trenchouer lofe in your lefte ha{n}de, and with the edge of your table knyfe take vp your trenchours as nye the poynt as ye may / [c]tha{n} laye foure trenchours to your soferayne, one by an other / and laye theron other foure trenchours or elles twayne / than take a lofe in your lyfte hande, & pare y^e lofe rou{n}de aboute / tha{n} cut the ouer cruste to your souerayne, and cut the nether cruste, & voyde the parynge, & touche the lofe no more after it is so serued / than clense the table that the sewer may serue youre souerayne. [d]Also ye muste knowe the fumosytces[I] of fysshe, flesshe, and foules, & all maner of sauces accordynge to theyr appetytes / these ben the fumosytes / salte, soure, resty, fatte, fryed, senewes, skynnes, hony, croupes, yonge feders, heddes, pygous[K] bones, all maner of legges of bestees & fowles the vtter syde; for these ben fumosytees; laye them neuer to your souerayne.

[Sidenotes: Keruynge of Flesshe. [a] Your hands must be clean; only two fingers and a thumb should be put on your knife, or on fish, flesh, or fowl. [b] Wipe your knife on your napkin. [c] Lay 4 trenchers for your lord, with 2 or 4 on them and the upper crust of a fine loaf. [d] Give heed to what is indigestible, as resty, fat things, feathers, heads, legs, &c.]

Seruyce.

[a] Take your knyfe in your ha{n}de, and cut brawne in y^e dysshe as it lyeth, & laye it on your soueraynes trenchour, & se there be mustarde. [b]Venyson with fourme{n}ty is good for your souerayne: touche not the venyson with your ha{n}de, but with your knyfe cut it .xii. draugh[Fol. A 5b.]tes with the edge of your knyfe, and cut it out in to y^e fourmenty / doo in the same wyse with pesen & bacon, befe chyne and motto{n} / pare the befe, cut the motto{n} / & laye to your souerayne / beware of fumosytees / salte, senewe, fatte, resty & rawe. In syrupe, [c]fesande, partryche, stockdoue, & chekyns / in the lefte ha{n}de take them by the pynyo{n}, & with the foreparte of your knyfe lyfte vp your wy{n}ges / than mynce it in to the syrupe / beware of sky{n}ne rawe & senowe. [d]Goos, tele, malarde, & swa{n}ne, reyse [L]the legges, than the wynges / laye the body in y^e myddes or in a nother plater / the wynges in the myddes & the legges; after laye the brawne bytwene the legges / & the wynges in the plater. [e]Capo{n} or henne of grece, lyfte the legges, tha{n} the wynges, & caste on wyne or ale, than mynce the wynge & giue your souerayne. Fesande, partryche, [f]plouer or lapwynge, reyse y^e wynges, & after the legges. woodcocke, [g]bytture, egryt, snyte, curlewe & heronsewe, vnlace them, breke of the pynyons, necke & becke / tha{n} reyse the legges, & let the fete be on styll, than the wynges. [h]Acrane, reyse the wynges fyrst, & beware of the trumpe in his brest. Pecocke, storke, bustarde & [i]shouyllarde, vnlace them as a crane, and let y^e fete be on styll. [k]Quayle, sparow, larke, martynet, pegyon, swalowe, & thrusshe, y^e legges fyrst, tha{n} y^e wynges. [l]Fawne, kyde, and lambe, laye the kydney to your souerayne, tha{n} lyfe vp the sholder & gyue your souerayne a rybbe. [m]Venyson roste, cut it in the dysshe, & laye it to your souerayne. [n]A cony, lay hy{m} on the backe, cut away the ventes bytwene the hy{n}der legges, breke the canell bone, than reyse the sydes, than lay the cony on y^e wombe, on eche syde the chyne y^e two sydes departed from the chy{n}e, tha{n} laye the bulke, chyne, & sydes, in y^e dysshe. [Fol. A 6.] [o]Also ye must my{n}ce foure lesses to one morcell of mete, that your soverayne may take it in the sauce. [p]All bake metes that ben hote, open them a-boue the coffyn; & all that ben colde, ope{n} theym in the mydwaye. [q]Custarde, cheke them inche square that your souerayne may ete therof. [r]Doucettes, pare awaye the sydes & the bottom: beware of fumosytes. [s]Fruyter vaunte, fruyter say, be good; bett{er} is fruyter pouche; apple fruyters ben good hote / and all colde fruters, touche not. Ta{n}sey is good / hote wortes, or gruell of befe or of motto{n} is good. [t]Gelly, mortrus, creme almondes, blau{n}che manger, Iussell, and charlet, cabage, and nombles of a dere, ben good / & all other potage beware of.

[Sidenotes: Keruynge of Flesshe. [a] How to carve Brawn, [b] Venison, (cut it in 12 bits and slice it into the furmity,) [c] Pheasant, Stockdoves, (mince the wings into the syrup,) [d] Goose, Teal, &c., (take off the legs and wings,) [e] Capon, (mince the wing with wine or ale,) [f] Plover, Lapwing, [g] Bittern, Egret. [h] How to carve a Crane, (mind the trump in his breast,) [i] Shoveler, [k] Quail, Martins, Swallow, [l] Fawn, Kid, [m] Roast Venison, [n] Cony, (lay him on his belly with his two cut-off sides, on each side of him.) [o] Cut 4 strips to each bit of meat, for your lord to pick it up by. [p] Open hot Meat-Pies at the top; cold in the middle. [q] Cut Custards in inch blocks. [r] Doucettes, pare off sides and bottom. [s] Fritters hot are good, cold bad. Tansey is good. [t] Jelly, Blanche Manger, Charlet, &c., are good, and no other potages.]



[Headnote: SAUCES FOR FOWLES.]

Here endeth y^e keruynge of flesshe. And begy{n}neth sauces for all maner of fowles.

[a] +Mustarde is good with brawne, befe, chyne, bacon, & motton. [b]Vergius is good to boyled chekyns and capon / swanne with cawdrons / [c]rybbes of befe with garlycke, mustarde, peper, vergyus; [d]gynger sauce to la{m}be, pygge, & fawne / mustarde & suger to fesande, partryche, and conye / sauce gamelyne to hero{n}sewe, egryt, plouer, & crane / to brewe, curlewe, [e]salte, suger, & water of tame / to bustarde, shouyllarde, & bytture, sauce gamelyne: [f]woodcocke, lapwynge, larke, quayle, mertynet, venyson, and snyte, with whyte salte / sparowes & throstelles with salte & synamo{n} / thus with all metes, sauce shall haue the operacyons.

Here endeth the sauces for all maner of fowles and metes.

[Sidenotes: Sauces for all maner of Fowles. [a] Mustard for beef; [b] Verjuice for boiled chickens; Cawdrons for swans; [c] Garlick, &c., for beef. [d] Ginger for lamb; Gamelyne for heronsewe, &c.; [e] Salt, Sugar and Water of Tame for brew, &c. [f] White salt for lapwings, &c. Cinnamon and salt for thrushes &c.]

[Headnote: FEESTES AND SERUYCE.]

[Fol. A 6b.] Here begynneth the feestes and seruyce from Eester vnto whytsondaye.

+On Eester daye & so forthe to Pe{n}tycost, after y^e seruy{n}ge of the table there shall be set brede, tre{n}chours, and spones, after the estymacyo{n} of them that shall syt there; and thus ye shall serue your souerayne; [a]laye [six or eightL] tre{n}chours / & yf he be of a lower degre [or] estate, laye fyue trenchours / & yf he be of lower degre, foure trenchours / & of an other degre, thre trenchours / [b]than cut brede for your souerayne after ye knowe his condycyons, wheder it be cutte in y^e myddes or pared, or elles for to be cut in small peces. Also ye must vndersta{n}de how y^e mete shall be serued before youre souerayne, & namely [c]on Eester daye after the gouernaunce & seruyce of y^e countree where ye were borne. [d]Fyrste on that daye he shall serue a calfe soden and blessyd / and than sode{n} egges with grene sauce, and set them before the most pryncypall estate / and that lorde by cause of his hyghe estate shall departe them all aboute hym / than serue potage, as wortes, Iowtes, or browes, with befe, motto{n}, or vele / & capo{n}s that ben coloured with saffron, and bake metes. [e]And the seconde course, Iussell with mamony, and rosted, endoured / & pegyons with bake metes, as tartes, chewettes, & flawnes, & other, after the dysposycyon of the cokes. [f]And at soupertyme dyuers sauces of motto{n} or vele in broche[M], after the ordynaunce of the stewarde / and than chekyns with bacon, vele, roste pegyons or lambe, & kydde roste with y^e heed & the portenaunce on lambe & pygges fete, with vinegre & percely theron, & a ta{n}sye fryed, & other bake metes / ye shall vndersta{n}de this maner of seruyce [Fol. B i.] dureth to Pentecoste, saue fysshe dayes. Also take hede how ye shall araye these thynges before your souerayne / [g]fyrst ye shall se there be grene sauces of sorell or of vynes, that is holde a sauce for the fyrst course / and ye shall begyn to reyse the capon.

[Sidenotes: The Dinner Courses from Easter to Whitsunday. From Easter to Pentecost, set bread, trenchers and spoons: [a] 6 or 8 trenchers for a great lord, 3 for one of low degree. [b] Then cut bread for eating. [c] For Easter-day Feast: [d] First Course: A Calf, boiled and blessed; boiled Eggs and green sauce; Potage, with beef, saffron-stained Capons. [e] Second Course: Mameny, Pigeons, Chewets, Flawnes. [f] Supper: Chickens, Veal, roast Kid, Pigs'-Feet, a Tansey fried. [g] Green Sauces of sorrel or vines, for the first course.]

[Headnote: KERUYNG OF ALL MANER OF FOWLES.]

Here endeth the feest of Eester tyll Pentecoste. And here begynneth keruyng of all maner of fowles.

Sauce that capon.

Take vp a capon, & lyfte vp the ryght legge and the ryght wynge, & so araye forth & laye hym in the plater as he sholde flee, & serve your souerayne / & knowe well that capons or chekyns ben arayed after one sauce; the chekyn shall be sauced with grene sauce or vergyus.

Lyfte that swanne.

Take and dyghte hym as a goose, but let hym haue a largyour brawne, & loke ye haue chawdron.

Alaye that fesande.

Take a fesande, and reyse his legges & his wynges as it were an henne, & no sauce but onely salte.

wynge that partryche.

Take a partryche, and reyse his legges and his wynges as a henne / & ye mynce hym, sauce hym with wyn, poudre of gynger, & salte / that set it vpon a chaufyng-dysshe of coles to warme & serue it.

wynge that quayle.

Take a quayle, and reyse his legges and his wynges as an henne, and no sauce but salte.

Dysplaye that crane.

Take a crane, and vnfolde his legges, and cut of his wynges by the Ioyntes: than take vp hys wynges and his legges, and sauce hym with poudres of gynger, mustarde, vynegre, and salte.

[Fol. B i.b.] Dysmembre that heron.

Take an heron, and reyse his legges and his wynges as a crane, and sauce hym with vynegre, mustarde, poudre of gynger, and salte.

Vnioint that bytture.

Take a bytture, and reyse his legges & his wynges as an heron, & no sauce but salte.

Breke that egryt.

Take an egryt, and reyse his legges and his wynges as an heron, and no sauce but salte.

Vntache that curlewe.

Take a curlewe, and reyse his legges and his wynges as an henne, and no sauce but salte.

Vntache that brewe.

Take a brewe, and reyse his legges and his wynges in the same maner, and no sauce but onely salte, & serue your souerayne.

Vnlace that cony.

Take a cony, and laye hym on the backe, & cut awaye the ventes / than reyse the wynges and the sydes, and laye bulke, chyne, and the sydes togyder; sauce, vynegre and poudre of gynger.

Breke that sarcell.

Take a sarcell or a teele, and reyse his wynges & his legges, and no sauce but salte onely.

Mynce that plouer.

Take a plouer, and reyse his legges and his wynges as an henne, and no sauce but onely salt.

A snyte.

Take a snyte, and reyse his wynges, his legges, and his sholdres, as a plouer; and no sauce but salte.

[Fol. B ij.] Thye that woodcocke.

Take a woodcocke, & reyse his legges and his wynges as an henne; this done, dyght the brayne. And here begynneth the feest from Pentecost vnto mydsomer.

[Sidenotes: Keruyng of all maner of Fowles. How to carve a Capon. Sauce: green sauce or verjuice. Swan. Chawdron is the sauce for him. Pheasant. No sauce but Salt. Partridge. Sauce for Partridges. How to carve a Quail. Sauce: salt. Crane. Sauce: ginger, mustard, vinegar, and salt. Heron. Sauce as before. Rittern. Salt, the sauce. Egret. Salt, the sauce. Curlew. Salt, as sauce. Brew. Salt, as sauce. Cony (or Rabbit.) Sauce: vinegar and ginger. Sarcel or Teal. Plover. Snipe. Woodcock.]

[a] +In the seconde course for the metes before sayd ye shall take for your sauces, wyne, ale, vynegre, and poudres, after the mete be; & gynger & canell from Pentecost to the feest of saynt Iohn baptyst. [b]The fyrst course shall be befe, motton soden with capons, or rosted / [c]& yf the capons be soden, araye hym in the maner aforesayd. And whan he is rosted, thou must caste on salte, with wyne or with ale / tha{n} take the capon by the legges, & caste on the sauce, & breke hym out, & laye hym in a dysshe as he sholde flee. Fyrst ye shall cut the ryght legge and the ryght sholdre, & bytwene the foure membres laye the brawne of the capon, with the croupe in the ende bytwene the legges, as it were possyble for to be Ioyned agayne togyder / & other bake metes after: [d]And in the seconde course, potage shall be, Iussell, charlet, or mortrus, with yonge geese, vele, porke, pygyons or chekyns rosted, with payne puffe / fruyters, and other bake metes after the ordynau{n}ce of the coke. [e]Also the goose ought to be cut membre to membre, begynnynge at the ryght legge, and so forth vnder the ryght wynge, & not vpon the Ioynte aboue / [f]& it ought for to be eten with grene garlyke, or with sorell, or tender vynes, or vergyus in somer season, after the pleasure of your souerayne. Also ye shall vnderstande that all maner of fowle that hath hole fete sholde be reysed vnder the wynge, and not aboue.

[Sidenotes: [a] Sauces for the Second Course. [b] First Course: Beef and Capons. [c] How to sauce and carve a Roast capon: lay him out as if ready to fly. [d] Second Course: Potage, Charlet, young Geese, Payne Puff, &c. [e] How to carve a Goose. [f] Goose must be eaten with green garlic or verjuice.]

[Headnote: THE SERVICE FROM MIDSUMMER TO CHRISTMAS.]

Here endeth the feest from Pentecost to mydsomer. And here begynneth from the feest of saynt Iohn the baptist vnto Myghelmasse.

[a] +In the fyrst course, potage, wortes, gruell, & fourmenty, with venyson, and mortrus and pestelles of porke with grene sauce. Rosted capon, swanne with chawdron. [b]In the seconde course, potage after the ordynaunce of the cokes, with rosted motton, vele, porke, chekyns or endoured pygyons, heron-sewes, fruyters or other bake metes / [c]& take hede to the fesande: he shall be arayed in the maner of a capon / but it shall be done drye, without ony moysture, and he shall be eten with salte and pouder of gynger. And the heronsewe shall be arayed in the same maner without ony moysture, & he shulde be eten with salte and poudre. [d]Also ye shall vnderstande that all maner of fowles hauynge open clawes as a capon, shall be tyred and arayed as a capon and suche other.

[Sidenotes: Dinner Courses from the Nativity[*] of St John the Baptist, (June 24,) to Michaelmas. [a] First Course: soups, vegetables, legs of Pork, &c. [b] Second Course: roast Mutton, glazed Pigeons, Fritters, &c. [c] Serve a Pheasant dry, with salt and ginger: a Heronsewe with salt and powder (blanche?) [d] Treat open-clawed birds like capons.]

[Footnote *: The feast of St John's Beheading is on Aug. 29.]

From the feest of saynt Myghell vnto the feest of Chrystynmasse.

[a] +In the fyrst course, potage, befe, motton, bacon, or pestelles of porke, or with goose, capon, mallarde, swanne, or fesande, as it is before sayd, with tartes, or bake metes, or chynes of porke. [b]In the second course, potage, mortrus, or conyes, or sewe / than roste flesshe, motton, porke, vele, pullettes, chekyns, pygyons, teeles, wegyons, mallardes, partryche, woodcoke, plouer, bytture, curlewe, heronsewe / venyson roost, grete byrdes, snytes, feldefayres, thrusshes, fruyters, chewettes, befe with sauce gelopere, roost with sauce pegyll, & other ba[Fol. B iii.]ke metes as is aforesayde. And yf ye kerue afore your lorde or your lady ony soden flesshe, [c]kerue awaye the sky{n}ne aboue / tha{n} kerue resonably of y^e flesshe to your lorde or lady, and [d]specyally for ladyes, for y^e[N] wyll soone be angry, for theyr thoughtes ben soone changed / and some lordes wyll be sone pleased, & some wyll not / as they be of co{m}pleccyo{n}. [e]The goos & swanne may be cut as ye do other fowles y^t haue hole fete, or elles as your lorde or your lady wyll aske it. Also a swa{n}ne w{i}t{h} chawdron, capo{n}, or fesande, ought for to be arayed as it is aforesayd / but the skynne must be had awaye / & whan they be{n} kerued before your lorde or your lady / for generally [f]the skynne of all maner clove{n} foted fowles is vnholsome / & the skynne of all maner hole foted fowles be{n} holsome for to be eten. Also wete ye well that all maner hole foted fowles that haue theyr lyuy{n}g vpon the water, theyr skynnes ben holsome & clene, for by y^e clenes of the water / & fysshe, is theyr lyuynge. And yf that they ete ony stynkynge thynge, it is made so clene with y^e water that all the corrupcyon is clene gone away frome it. [g]And the sky{n}ne of capo{n}, henne, or chekyn, ben not so clene, for the[y] ete foule thynges in the strete / & therfore the skynnes be{n} not so holsome / for it is not theyr kynde to entre in to y^e ryuer to make theyr mete voyde of y^e fylth. [h]Mallarde, goose, or swanne, they ete vpon the londe foule mete / but a-no{n}, after theyr ky{n}de, they go to the ryuer, & theyr they clense them of theyr foule stynke. A fesande as it is aforesayd / but y^e sky{n}ne is not holsome / [i]than take y^e heddes of all felde byrdes and wood byrdes, as fesande, pecocke, partryche, woodcocke, and curlewe, for they ete in theyr degrees foule thynges, as wormes, todes, and other suche.

[Sidenotes: Dinner Courses from Michaelmas to Christmas. [a] First Course: legs of Pork, &c. [b] Second Course: Widgeon, Fieldfares, Chewets, Beef, with sauces Gelopere and Pegyll. [c] Cut the skin off boiled meats. [d] Carve carefully for Ladies; they soon get angry [e] Carve Goose and Swan like other birds. [f] The skin of cloven-footed birds is unwholsome; of whole-footed birds wholesome, because the water washes all corruption out of 'em. [g] Chicken's skin is not so pure, because their nature is not to enter into the river. [h] River birds cleanse their foul stink in the river. [i] Take off the heads of all field birds, for they eat worms, toads, and the like.]

[Headnote: SEWYNGE OF FYSSHE.]

Here endeth the feestes and the keruynge of flesshe, And here begynneth the sewynge of fysshe.

The fyrst course.

+To go to sewynge of fysshe: musculade, menewes in sewe of porpas or of samon, bacon hery{n}ge w{i}t{h} suger, grene fysshe, pyke, lampraye, salens, porpas rosted, bake gurnade, and lampraye bake.

The seconde course.

Gelly whyte and rede, dates in confetes, congre, samon, dorrey, brytte, turbot, halybut / for standarde, base, troute, molette, cheuene, sele, eles & lamprayes roost, tenche in gelly.

The thyrde course.

Fresshe sturgyon, breme, perche in gelly, a Ioll of samon, sturgyon, and welkes; apples & peres rosted with suger candy. Fygges of malyke, & raysyns, [O]dates capte w{i}t{h} mynced gynger / wafers and ypocras, they ben agreable / this feest is done, voyde ye the table.

[Sidenotes: Sewynge of Fysshe. First Course: Musculade. Salens, &c., baked Gurnet. Second Course: Jelly, dates, &c. For a standard, Mullet, Chub, Seal, &c. Third Course: Bream, Perch, Whelks; and pears in sugar candy. Figs, dates capped with minced ginger, &c. All over! Clear the table.]

[Headnote: KERUYNGE OF FYSSHE.]

[Fol. B iii.b.] Here endeth sewynge of fysshe. And here foloweth keruynge of fysshe.

[a] +The keruer of fysshe must se to pessene & fourmentye the tayle and y^e lyuer: ye must loke [b]yf there be a salte purpos, or sele turrentyne, & do after y^e fourme of venyson / baken herynge, laye it hole vpon your soueraynes trenchour / whyte hery{n}ge in a disshe, open it by y^e backe, pyke out the bones & the rowe, & se there be mustarde. Of salte fysshe, grene fysshe, salt samon & congre, pare away y^e skyn / salte fysshe, stocke fysshe, marlynge, makrell, and hake, with butter: take awaye the bones & the skynnes. A pyke, laye y^e wombe vpon his trenchour w{i}t{h} pyke sauce ynoughe. A salte [Fol. B 4.] lampraye, gobone it flatte in .vii. or .viii. peces, & lay it to your souerayne. Aplayce, put out the water / than crosse hym with your knyfe, caste on salte & wyne or ale. [c]Gornarde, rochet, breme, cheuene, base, molet, roche, perche, sole, makrell & whytynge, haddocke and codlynge, reyse them by the backe, & pyke out the bones, & clense the refet in y^e bely. [d]Carpe, breme, sole, & troute, backe & belly togyder. Samon, congre, sturgyon, turbot, thorpole, thornebacke, hou{n}de-fysshe, & halybut, cut them in the dysshe as y^e porpas aboute / tenche in his sauce, cut it / eles & lamprayes roost, pull of the skynne, pyke out y^e bones, put therto vyneger & poudre. [e]A crabbe, breke hym a-sonder in to a dysshe, make y^e shelle clene, & put in the stuffe agayne, tempre it with vynegre & pouder, than couer it with brede, and sende it to the kytchyn to hete / than set it to your souerayne, and breke the grete clawes, and laye them in a disshe. [f]A creues, dyght hym thus: departe hym a-sonder, & slytee[P] the belly, and take out y^e fysshe; pare away the reed skynne, and mynce it thynne; put vynegre in the dysshe, and set in on y^e table w{i}t{h}out hete. A Iol of sturgyon, cut it in thynne morselles, & lay it rou{n}de aboute the dysshe. Fresshe lampraye bake: open y^e pasty / than take whyte brede, and cut it thynne, & lay it in a dysshe, & [g]with a spone take out galentyne, & lay it vpon the brede with reed wyne & poudre of synamon / than cut a gobone of the lampraye, & mynce the gobone thynne, and laye it in the galentyne; than set it vpo{n} the fyre to hete. [h]Fresshe herynge with salte & wyne / shrympes wel pyked, flou{n}dres, gogyons, menewes & musceles, eles and lamprayes: [i]sprottes is good in sewe / musculade in wortes / oystres i{n} ceuy, oysters in grauy, menewes in porpas, samo{n} & seele, gelly [Fol. B 4b.] whyte and reede, creme of almo{n}des, [k]dates in comfetes, peres and quynces in syrupe, with percely rotes; mortrus of houndes fysshe, ryse standynge.

[Sidenotes: Carving and Dressing of Fish [a] Put tails and livers in the pea broth and furmity. [b] How to carve Seal Turrentyne, baked Herring, white Herring, Green Fish, Merling, Hake, Pike, salt Lamprey, Plaice. [c] Gurnard, Bream, Roach, Whiting, Codling. [d] Carp, Trout, Conger, Thornback, Halibut, Tench, and Crab. [e] How to dress and serve up a Crab. [f] How to dress and carve a Crayfish, a Joll of Sturgeon, a fresh Lamprey, pasty. [g] (sauce, Galentyne with red wine and powdered cinnamon.) [h] Fresh Herring, &c. [i] Sprats, Musculade in worts, Oysters. [k] Dates, pears, Mortrewes of Dogfish.]

[Headnote: SAUCES FOR FYSSHE.]

Here endeth the keruynge of fysshe. And here begy{n}neth sauces for all maner of fysshe.

[a] +Mustarde is good for salte herynge / salte fysshe, salte congre, samo{n}, sparlynge, salt ele & lynge: [b]vynegre is good with salte porpas, turrentyne salte / sturgyo{n} salte, threpole, & salt wale / [c]lampray with galentyne / vergyus to roche, dace, breme, molet, base, flounders, sole, crabbe, and [d]cheuene, with poudre of synamo{n}; to thornebacke, herynge, houndefysshe, haddocke, whytynge, & codde, vynegre, poudre of synamon, & gynger; [e]grene sauce is good with grene fysshe & halybut, cottell, & fresshe turbot / put not your grene sauce awaye, for it is good with mustarde.

Here endeth for all maner of sauces for fyssche accordynge to theyr appetyte.

[Sidenotes: Sauces for Fish. [a] Mustard for Salmon, &c.; [b] Vinegar for salt Whale, &c.; [c] Galentyne for Lamprey; Verjuice for Roach, &c.; [d] Cinnamon for Chub, &c.; [e] Green Sauce for Halibut, &c.]

[Headnote: THE CHAUMBERLAYNE.]

The chaumberlayne.

+The caumberlayne muste be dylyge{n}t & clenly in his offyce, with his heed kembed, & so to his souerayne that he be not recheles, & se that he haue a clene sherte, breche, petycote, and doublet / tha{n} brusshe his hosen within & without, & se his shone & slyppers be made clene / [a]& at morne whan your souerayne wyll aryse, warme his sherte by the fyre / & se ye haue a fote shete made in this maner. Fyrst set a chayre by the fyre with a cuysshen, an other vnder his fete / tha{n} sprede a shete ouer the chayre, and se there be redy a kerchefe [Fol. B 5.] and a combe / than [b]warme his petycote, his doublet, and his stomachere / [c]& than put on his hosen & his shone or slyppers, than stryke vp his hosen manerly, & tye them vp, than lace his doublet hole by hole, & laye the clothe aboute his necke & kembe his hede / than loke ye haue a basyn, & an ewer with warme water, and a towell, and wasshe his handes / than knele vpon your knee, & aske your souerayne what robe he wyll were, & brynge him such as your souerayne co{m}mau{n}deth, & put it vpon hym; than doo his gyrdell aboute hym, & take your leue manerly, & [d]go to the chyrche or chapell to your soueraynes closet, & laye carpentes & cuysshens, & lay downe his boke of prayers / than drawe the curtynes, and take your leue goodly, & go to youre soueraynes chambre, & cast all the clothes of his bedde, & bete the feder bedde & the bolster / but loke ye waste no feders; than shall the blankettes, & se the shetes be fayre & swete, or elles loke ye haue clene shetes / than [e]make vp his bedde manerly, than lay the hed shetes & the pyllowes / than take vp the towel & the basyn, & laye carpentes aboute the bedde, or wyndowes & cupbordes layde with carpettes and cuysshyns. Also loke there be a good fyre brennynge bryght / & [f]se the hous of hesement be swete & clene, & the preuy borde couered with a grene clothe and a cuysshyn / tha{n} se there be blanked, donne, or cotton, for your souerrayne / & [g]loke ye haue basyn, & euer with water, & a towell for your souerayne / than take of his gowne, & brynge him a mantell to kepe hym fro colde / than brynge hym to the fyre, & take of his shone & his hosen; than take a fayre kercher of reynes / & [h]kembe his heed, & put on his kercher and his bonet / than sprede downe his bedde, laye the heed shete and the pyllowes / & whan your souerayne is to bedde [Fol. B 5b.] drawe the curtynes / than se there be morter or waxe or perchoures be redy / than dryue out dogge or catte, & loke there be basyn and vrynall set nere your souerayne / than take your leue manerly that your souerayne may take his rest meryly.

Here endeth of the chaumberlayne.

[Sidenotes: The Duties of a Chamberlain. He must be cleanly, and comb his hair; see to his Lord's clothes, and brush his hose; [a] in the morning warm his shirt, and prepare his footsheet; [b] warm his petycote, &c.; [c] put on his shoes, tie up his hose, comb his head, wash his hands, put on the robe he orders. [d] Make ready his Closet in the Church or Chapel, then come home to his Bed-chamber, take off the bed-clothes. [e] Make his lord's bed again with clean sheets, and lay hangings round the bed, and windows, &c. [f] Keep the privy clean, and the board covered with green cloth, and provide down or cotton for wiping. [g] When he goes to bed, let him wash; put him on a mantle, take off his shoes, &c. [h] Comb his head, put on his night-cap, draw the curtains round him, drive out the dogs and cats, set the urinal near, and then take leave.]

[Headnote: OF THE MARSHALL AND THE VSSHER.]

Here foloweth of the Marshall and the vssher.

+The Marshall and the vssher muste knowe all the estates of the chyrche, and the hyghe estate of a kynge, with the blode royall.

The estate of a Pope hath no pere.

The estate of an Emperour is nexte.

The estate of a kynge.

The estate of a cardynall.

The estate of a kynges sone, a prynce.

The estate of an archebysshop.

The estate of a duke

The estate of a bysshop

The estate of a marques

The estate of an erle

The estate of a vycount

The estate of a baron.

The estate of an abbot with a myter

The estate of the thre chefe Iuges & the Mayre of London.

The estate of an abbot without a myter

The estate of a knyght bacheler

The estate of a pryour, dene, archedeken, or knyght

[Fol. B 6.]

The estate of the mayster of the rolles.

The estate of other Iustices & barons of the cheker

The estate of the mayre of Calays.

The estate of a prouyncyall, a doctour dyvyne,

The estate of a prothonat: he is aboue the popes collectour, and a doctour of bothe the lawes.

The estate of him that hath ben mayre of London and seruaunt of the lawe.

[a] The estate of a mayster of the chauncery, and other worshypfull prechours of pardon, and clerkes that ben gradewable / & all other ordres of chastyte, persones & preestes, worshypfull marchauntes & gentylmen, all this may syt at the squyers table.

[b] An archebysshop and a duke may not kepe the hall, but eche estate by them selfe in chaumbre or in pauylyon, that neyther se other.

[c] Bysshoppes, Marques, Erles, & Vycou{n}tes, all these may syt two at a messe.

[d] A baron, & the mayre of London, & thre chefe Iuges, and the speker of the parlyament, & an abbot with a myter, all these may svt two or thre at a messe

[e] And all other estates may syt thre or foure at a messe

[f] Also the Marshall muste vnderstande and knowe the blode royall, for some lorde is of blode royall & of small lyuelode. And some knyght is wedded to a lady of royal blode; she shal kepe the estate that she was before. And a lady of lower degree shal kepe the estate of her lordes blode / & therfore the royall blode shall haue the reuere{n}ce, as I haue shewed you here before.

Also a marshall muste take hede of the byrthe, and nexte of the lyne, of the blode royall.

[g] Also he must take hede of the kynges offycers, of the Chaunceler, Stewarde, Chamberlayne, Tresourer, and Controller.

Also the marshall must take heed vnto straungers, & put them to worshyp & reuerence; for and they haue good chere it is your soueraynes honour.

Also a Marshall muste take hede yf the kynge sende to your souerayne ony message; and yf he send a knyght, receyue hym as a baron; and yf he sende a squyre, receyue hym as a knyght / and yf he sende you a yoman, receyue hym as a squyer / and yf he sende you a grome, receyue hym as a yoman.

Also it is noo rebuke to a knyght to sette a grome of the kynge at his table.

[Sidenotes: Of the Marshal and Usher. He must know the orders of precedence of all ranks. A Cardinal before a Prince. The Mayor of London ranks with the 3 Chief Justices. The Knight's equals. The ex-Mayor of London. [a] The Esquire's equals. [b] Who must dine alone, [c] who 2 together, [d] who 2 or 3, [e] who 3 or 4. [f] The Marshall must know who are of royal blood, for that has the reverence. [g] He must take heed of the King's officers, do honour to strangers, and receive a Messenger from the King as if one degree higher than he is, for a King's groom may sit at a Knight's table.]

Here endeth the boke of seruyce, & keruynge, and sewynge, and all maner of offyce in his kynde vnto a prynce or ony other estate, & all the feestes in the yere. Enprynted by wynkyn de worde at London in Flete strete at the sygne of the sonne. The yere of our lorde god M.CCCCC.xiij.

[Wynkyn .de. worde's device here.]

[Sidenotes: Here ends this Book printed by Wynkyn de Worde. A.D. 1513.]



NOTES.

Wynkyn de Worde introduces some dishes, sauces, fish, and one wine, not mentioned by Russell.

The new Dishes are—

Fayge (p.157, l.10). This may be for Sage, the herb, or a variety of Fritter, like Fruyter vaunte (p.157, l.2; p.159, l.24), fruyter say (p.159, l.24), or a dish that I cannot find, or a way of spelling figs.

Fruyter say, p.159, l.24. If say is not for Sage, then it may be a fish, contrasted with the vaunte, which I suppose to mean 'meat.' Sey is a Scotch name for the Coalfish, Merlangus Carbonarius. Yarrell, ii. 251.

Charlet (p.159, l.28). The recipe in 'Household Ordinances,' p.463, is, Take swete cowe mylk and put into a panne, and cast in therto [gh]olkes of eyren and the white also, and sothen porke brayed, and sage; and let hit boyle tyl hit crudde, and colour it with saffron, and dresse hit up, and serve hit forthe." Another recipe for Charlet Enforsed follows, and there are others for Charlet and Charlet icoloured, in Liber Cure, p.11.

Jowtes, p.160, last line. These are broths of beef or fish boiled with chopped boiled herbs and bread, H.Ord. p.461. Others are made 'with swete almond mylke,' ib. See 'Joutus de Almonde,' p.15, Liber Cure. For 'Joutes' p.47; 'for oer ioutes,' p.48.

Browes, p.160, last line. This is doubtless the Brus of Household Ordinances, p.427, and the bruys of Liber Cure, p.19, l.3, brewis, or broth. Brus was made of chopped pig's-inwards, leeks, onions, bread, blood, vinegar. For 'Brewewes in Somere' see H.Ord. p.453.

Chewettes, p.161, l.4, were small pies of chopped-up livers of pigs, hens, and capons, fried in grease, mixed with hard eggs and ginger, and then fried or baked. Household Ordinances, p.442, and Liber Cure, p.41. The Chewets for fish days were similar pies of chopped turbot, haddock, and cod, ground dates, raisins, prunes, powder and salt, fried in oil, and boiled in sugar and wine. L. Cure, p.41. Markham's Recipe for 'A Chewet Pye' is at p.80-1 of his English Houswife. Chewit, or small Pie; minced or otherwise. R. Holme. See also two recipes in MS. Harl. 279, fol. 38.

Flaunes (p.161, l.4) were Cheesecakes, made of ground cheese beaten up with eggs and sugar, coloured with saffron, and baked in 'cofyns' or crusts. 'A Flaune of Almayne' or 'Crustade' was a more elaborate preparation of dried or fresh raisins and pears or apples pounded, with cream, eggs, bread, spices, and butter, strained and baked in 'a faire coffyn or two.' H.Ord. p.452. [['Pro Caseo ad flauns qualibet die . panis j' (allowance of). Register of Worcester Priory, fol. 121 a. ed. Hale, 1865.]]

Of new Sauces, Wynkyn de Worde names Gelopere & Pegyll (p.165, l.4). Gelopere I cannot find, and can only suggest that its p may be for f, and that "cloves of gelofer," the clove-gillyflower, may have been the basis of it. These cloves were stuck in ox tongues, see "Lange de beof," Liber Cure, p.26. Muffett also recommends Gilly-flour Vinegar as the best sauce for sturgeon in summer, p.172; and Vinegar of Clove-Gilliflowers is mentioned by Culpepper, p.97, Physical Directory, 1649.

Pegylle I take to be the Pykulle of Liber Cure Cocorum, p.31, made thus;

'Take droppyng of capone rostyd wele With wyne and mustarde, as have ou cele [bliss], With onyons smalle schrad, and sothun in grece, Meng alle in fere, and forthe hit messe.'

The new Wine is Campolet, p.153. Henderson does not mention it; Halliwell has 'Campletes. A kind of wine, mentioned in a curious list in MS. Rawl. C. 86.' [See the list in the Notes to Russell, above, p.86.] I suppose it to be the wine from 'Campole. The name of a certaine white grape, which hath very white kernels.' Cotgrave.

Of new Fish W. de Worde names the Salens (p.166, l.8), Cottell and Tench (p.167). Torrentyne he makes sele turrentyne (p.166, l.8 from bottom) seemingly, but has turrentyne salte as a fish salted, at p.168, l.7.

Cottell, p.168, l.14, the cuttlefish. Of these, Sepi vel Lolligines calamari, Muffet says, they are called also 'sleewes' for their shape, and 'scribes' for their incky humour wherewith they are replenished, and are commended by Galen for great nourishers; their skins be as smooth as any womans, but their flesh is brawny as any ploughmans; therefore I fear me Galen rather commended them upon hear-say then upon any just cause or true experience.

For the Salens I can only suggest thunny. Aldrovandi, de Piscibus, treating of the synonyms of the Salmon, p.482, says, "Grcam salmonis nomenclaturam non inuenio, neq{ue} est quod id miretur curiosus lector, cum in Oceano tantu{m} flumi{n}ibusq{ue} in eum se exonerantibus reperiatur, ad qu veteres Grci nunquam penetr{a}runt. Qui voluerit, Salangem appellare poterit. Salanx enim boni, id est, delicati piscis nomen legitur apud Hesychium, nec prterea qui sit, explicatur: aut a migrandi natura katanadromos, vel dromas fluviatilis dicatur, nam Aristoteles in mari dromades vocat Thunnos aliosq{ue} gregales, qui aliunde in Pontum excurrunt, et vix vno loco conquiescunt; aut nomen fingatur a saltu, & almn dicitur. Non placet tamen, salmonis nomen a saltu deduci, aut etiam sale, licet saliendi natura ei optim quadret saleq{ue} aut muria inueturaria etiam soleat. Non enim latine sed a Germanis Belgisu Rheni accolis, aut Gallis Aquitanicis accepta vox est." See also p.318, 'Scardula, et Iucohia ex Pigis, et Plota, Sale{n}a.' Gesner, de Piscibus, p.273. Can salens be the Greek 'sln, a shell-fish, perhaps like the razor-fish. Epich. p.22.'—Liddell and Scott—? I presume not. 'Solen. The flesh is sweet; they may be eaten fryed or boiled.' 1661, R. Lovell, Hist. of Animals, p.240. 'Solen: A genus of bivalve mollusks, having a long slender shell; razor-fish.' Webster's Dict.

Sele turrentyne, p.166, l. 8 from bottom. Seemingly a variety of seal, or of eel or sole if sele is a misprint. But I cannot suggest any fish for it.

Rochets, p.167, l.5. Rubelliones. Rochets (or rather Rougets, because they are so red) differ from Gurnards and Curs, in that they are redder by a great deal, and also lesser; they are of the like flesh and goodness, yet better fryed with onions, butter, and vinegar, then sodden. Muffett, p.166.

[Footnote L*: See above, in the Keruynge of Flesshe, p.157, lines 5 and 4 from the bottom. ["laye foure trenchours to your soferayne, one by an other / and laye theron other foure trenchours or elles twayne"]]

[Textnotes: A Orig. seasous B sic: o for e C sic: a for n D for se, see. E for is F for be G ? u for n H for with I sic: c for e K sic: u for n L The top of the s is broken off, making the letter look like an l rubbed at the top. M ? brothe N for they O Orig. raysyus P sic]

* * * * * * * * *

The

Boke of Curtasye.

FROM THE SLOANE MS. 1986 IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM, AB. 1460 A.D.

[Transcriber's Note:

In this selection, sidenotes are identified by verse lines. They are grouped by text headers (generally in Latin), as shown in the Table of Contents.]

CONTENTS.

PAGE Here begynneth{e} e FYRST BOKE of CURTASYE 177 [Headnote: HOW TO BEHAVE AT TABLE.] [Headnote: HOW TO BEHAVE AT MEALS.] THE SECOND BOOK 181 [Headnote: HOW TO BEHAVE AT CHURCH, TO PARENTS, ETC.] [Headnote: THE RULE OF GOOD MANNERS.] THE THIRD BOOK: De officiarijs in curijs d{omi}no{rum} 187 De Ianitor{e} 188 [Headnote: OF THE PORTER, AND MARSHAL OF THE HALL.] De Marescallo aule 188 P{er} q{uan}tu{m} te{m}p{us} armig{er}i h{ab}eb{un}t lib{er}ata{m} {et} ignis ardeb{i}t i{n} a{ul}a 189 De pinc{er}nario, panetario, {et} cocis sibi s{er}uie{n}tib{us} 190 [Headnote: OF THE BUTLER AND PANTER.] De offic{i}o pinc{er}narij 190 De hostiario {et} suis s{er}uientib{us} 190 De Offic{i}o garc{i}onu{m} 191 [Headnote: OF THE GROOMS AND USHER OF THE CHAMBER.] De seneschallo 194 [Headnote: OF THE STEWARD.] De cont{ra}rotulatore 195 De sup{er}uisore 195 De Clerico coquine 195 De cancellario 195 [Headnote: OF THE CHANCELLOR AND TREASURER.] De thesaurizario 196 De receptore firmar{um} 197 De Auenario 197 De pistore 198 [Headnote: OF THE BAKER AND HUNTSMAN.] De venatore {et} suis canib{us} 198 De aquario 199 Qui d{eb}ent manus lauar{e} {et} i{n} q{u}or{um} domib{us} 199 De panetario 200 [Headnote: OF THE PANTER, THE LORD'S KNIVES, ETC.] De Cultellis d{omi}ni 200 De Elemosinario 201 [Headnote: OF THE ALMONER AND DISH-SERVER.] De ferculario 202 De candelario 204 [Headnote: OF THE CARVER, SURNAPE-LAYERS, AND CHANDLER.]

The boke of Curtasye.

+Here begynneth{e} e fyrst boke of curtasye.

+Qwo so wylle of curtasy ler{e}, [Fol. 12.] In this boke he may hit her{e}! Yf thow be gentylmon, [gh]omo{n}, or knaue, The nedis nurture for to haue. 4 Whe thou comes to a lordis [gh]ate, The porter {o}u shall{e} fynde ther-ate; Take hym thow shalt y wepyn tho, And aske hym leue in to go 8

To speke w{i}t{h} lorde, lady, squyer, or grome. Ther-to the nedys to take the tome[1]; For yf he be of logh{e} degre, Than hym falles to come to the; 12

Yf he be gentylmo{n} of ky, The porter wille lede the to hym. When thow come tho halle dor to, Do of thy hode, thy gloues also; 16

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