[Footnote 11: An Augre, or wimble, wherewith holes are bored. Terebra & terebrum. Vng tarriere. Baret's Alvearie, 1580.]

[Footnote 12: A Cannell or gutter. Canalis. Baret. Tuyau, apipe, quill, cane, reed, canell. Cotgrave. Canelle, the faucet [l.68] or quill of a wine vessel; also, the cocke, or spout of a conduit. Cot.]

[Footnote 13: A Faucet, or tappe, a flute, a whistle, apipe as well to conueigh water, as an instrument of Musicke. Fistula ... Tbulus. Baret.]

[Footnote 14: Tampon, a bung or stopple. Cot. Tampyon for a gon—tampon. Palsg.]

[Footnote 15: The projecting rim of a cask. Queen Elizabeth's 'yeoman drawer hath for his fees, all the lees of wine within fowre fingers of the chine, &c.' H. Ord. p.295, (referred to by Halliwell).]

[Footnote 16. Ashore, aslant, see note to l.299.]

[Labeled in text as "l. 71" and printed between notes 13, 14. The "note to l. 299" is Footnote 58.]

[Footnote 17: ? This may be butter-cheese, milk- or cream-cheese, as contrasted with the 'hard chese' l.84-5; but butter is treated of separately, l.89.]

[Footnote 18: Fruit preserves of some kind; not the stew of chickens, herbs, honey, ginger, &c., for which a recipe is given on p.18 of Liber Cure Cocorum. Cotgrave has Composte: f. Acondiment or composition; awet sucket (wherein sweet wine was vsed in stead of sugar), also, apickled or winter Sallet of hearbes, fruits, or flowers, condited in vinegar, salt, sugar, or sweet wine, and so keeping all the yeare long; any hearbes, fruit, or flowers in pickle; also pickle it selfe. Fr. compote, stewed fruit. The Recipe for Compost in the Forme of Cury, Recipe 100 (C), p.49-50, is "Take rote of p{er}sel. pasternak of rases. scrape hem and waische he{m} clene. take rap{is} & caboch{is} ypared and icorne. take an erthen pa{n}ne w{i}t{h} clene wat{er}, & set it on the fire. cast all ise {er}inne. whan ey buth boiled, cast {er}to peer{is}, & p{ar}boile hem wel. take ise thyng{is} up, & lat it kele on a fair cloth, do {er}to salt whan it is colde in a vessel; take vineg{ur}, & powdo{ur}, & safrou{n}, & do {er}to, & lat alle ise ing{is} lye {er}in al ny[gh]t o{er} al day, take wyne greke and hony clarified togidur, lumbarde mustard, & raisou{n}s corance al hool. & grynde powdo{ur} of canel, powdo{ur} douce, & aneys hole. & fenell seed. take alle ise ing{is}, & cast togyd{ur} i{n} a pot of erthe. and take {er}of whan {o}u wilt, & s{er}ue forth."]

[Footnote 19: ? not A.S. wnberie, a wine-berry, agrape, but our Whinberry. But 'Wineberries, currants', Craven Gloss.; Sw. vin-br, acurrant. On hard cheese, see note to l.86.]

[Footnote 20: Blandureau, m. The white apple, called (in some part of England) aBlaundrell. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 21: See note to l. 75.]

[Footnote 22: Pouldre blanche. A powder compounded of Ginger, Cinnamon, and Nutmegs; much in use among Cookes. Cotgrave. Is there any authority for the statement in Domestic Architecture, v.1, p.132; that sugar 'was sometimes called blanch powdre'? P.S.—Probably the recollection of what Pegge says in the Preface to the Forme of Cury, "There is mention of blanch-powder or white sugar," 132 [p.63]. They, however, were not the same, for see No. 193, p.xxvi-xxvii. On turning to the Recipe 132, of "Peer{is} in confyt," p.62-3, we find "whan ei [the pears] buth ysode, take he{m} up, make a syrup of wyne greke. o{er} v{er}nage w{i}t{h} blau{n}che powd{ur}, o{er} white sug{ur}, and powdo{ur} gyng{ur}, & do the per{is} {er}in." It is needless to say that if a modern recipe said take "sugar or honey," sugar could not be said "to be sometimes called" honey. See Dawson Turner in Howard Household Books.]

[Footnote 23: Ioncade: f. A certaine spoone-meat made of creame, Rose-water and Sugar. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 24: See the recipe to make it, lines 121-76; and in Forme of Cury, p.161.]

[Footnote 25: Muffett held a very different opinion. 'Old and dry cheese hurteth dangerously: for it stayeth siege [stools], stoppeth the Liver, engendereth choler, melancholy, and the stone, lieth long in the stomack undigested, procureth thirst, maketh a stinking breath and a scurvy skin: Whereupon Galen and Isaac have well noted, That as we may feed liberally of ruin cheese, and more liberally of fresh Cheese, so we are not to taste any further of old and hard Cheese, then to close up the mouth of our stomacks after meat,' p.131.]

[Footnote 26: In youth and old age. Muffett says, p.129-30, 'according to the old Proverb, Butter is Gold in the morning, Silver at noon, and lead at night. It is also best for children whilst they are growing, and for old men when they are declining; but very unwholesom betwixt those two ages, because through the heat of young stomacks, it is forthwith converted into choler [bile]. The Dutchmen have a by-Verse amongst them to this effect,

Eat Butter first, and eat it last, And live till a hundred years be past']

[Footnote 27: See note to l. 82.]

[Footnote 28: See 'Rompney of Modo,' among the sweet wines, l.119.]

[Footnote 29: Eschec & mat. Checke-mate at Chests; and (metaphorically) aremedilesse disaster, miserie, or misfortune. Cot.]

[Footnote 30: ? ascia, a dyse, Vocab. in Reliq. Ant. v.1, p.8, col. 1; ascia, 1. an axe; (2.a mattock, ahoe; 3. an instrument for mixing mortar). Diessel, ofte Diechsel, ACarpenter-axe, or a Chip-axe. Hexham.]

[Footnote 31: ? The name of the lees of some red wine. Phillips has Rosa Solis, akind of Herb; also a pleasant Liquor made of Brandy, Sugar, Cinnamon, and other Ingredients agreeable to the Taste, and comfortable to the Heart. (So called, as being at first prepared wholly of the juice of the plant ros-solis (sun-dew) or drosera. Dict. of Arts and Sciences, 1767.)]

[Footnote 32: See note, l. 31.]

[Footnote 33: See note on these wines at the end of the poem.]

[Footnote 34: In the Recipe for Jussel of Flessh (Household Ord., p.462), one way of preparing the dish is 'for a Lorde,' another way 'for Commons.' Other like passages also occur.]

[Footnote 35: Graines. Cardamomum, Graine de paradis. Baret. 'Graines of Paradise; or, the spice which we call, Graines.' Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 36: Cuite, a seething, baking. Cot.]

[Footnote 37: Spices. Of those for the Percy Household, 1512, the yearly cost was 25 19s. 7d., for Piper, Rasyns of Corens, Prones, Gynger, Mace, Clovvez, Sugour, Cinamom, Allmonds, Daytts, Nuttmuggs, Granes, Tornesole, Saunders, Powder of Annes, Rice, Coumfetts, Galyngga, Longe Piper, Blaynshe Powder, and Safferon, p.19, 20. Household Book, ed. Bp. Percy.]

[Footnote 38: Canel, spyce. Cinamomum, amomum. Promt. Parv. Canelle, our moderne Cannell or Cinnamom. Cot. (Named from its tube stalk?)]

[Footnote 39: Tourne-soleil. Tornesole, Heliotropium. Cotgrave. Take bleue turnesole, and dip hit in wyne, that the wyne may catch the colour thereof, and colour the potage therwith. H. Ord., p.465.... and take red turnesole steped wel in wyne, and colour the potage with that wine, ibid. 'And then with a little Turnsole make it of a high murrey [mulberry] colour.' Markham's Houswife, p.70.]

[Footnote 40: Manche: f. A sleeue; also a long narrow bag (such as Hypocras is made in). Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 41: boulting or straining cloth. 'ij bulteclothes.' Status Domus de Fynchall, A.D. 1360. Dom. Arch. v.1, p.136, note f.]

[Footnote 42: Stale, dead. Pallyd, as drynke (palled, as ale). Emortuus. P. Parv. See extract from A. Borde in notes at end.]

[Footnote 43: See Dict. de L'Academie, p.422, col. 2, ed. 1835. 'Couche se dit aussi de Toute substance qui est tendue, applique sur une autre, de manire la couvrir. Revtir un mur d'une couche de pltre, de mortier, &c.']

[Footnote 44: Fr. repli: m. A fould, plait, or bought. Cotgrave. cf. Bow, bend.]

[Footnote 45: Fine cloth, originally made at Rennes, in Bretagne.]

[Footnote 46: A.S. ger[-]dian, to make ready, arrange, prepare.]

[Footnote 47: See the mode of laying the Surnape in Henry VII.'s time described in H. Ord., p.119, at the end of this Poem.]

[Footnote 48: "A Portpayne for the said Pantre, an elne longe and a yerd brode." The Percy, or Northumberland Household Book, 1512, (ed. 1827), p.16, under Lynnon Clothe. 'A porte paine, to beare breade fro the Pantree to the table with, lintheum panarium.' Withals.]

[Footnote 49: A.S. twtan, twit; owtan, blame.]

[Footnote 50: 'prowl, proll, to seek for prey, from Fr. proie by the addition of a formative l, as kneel from knee.' Wedgwood.]

[Footnote 51: Louse is in English in 1530 'Louse, abeest—pov. Palsgrave. And see the note, p.19, Book of Quinte Essence.]

[Footnote 52: To look sullen (?). Glowting round her rock, to fish she falls. Chapman, in Todd's Johnson. Horrour and glouting admiration. Milton. Glouting with sullen spight. Garth.]

[Footnote 53: Snytyn a nese or a candyl. Emungo, mungo. Prompt. Parv. Emungo, to make cleane the nose. Emunctio, snuffyng or wypynge of the nose. Cooper. Snuyt uw neus, Blow your nose. Sewel, 1740; but snuyven, ofte snuffen, To Snuffe out the Snot or Filth out of ones Nose. Hexham, 1660. Alearned friend, who in his bachelor days investigated some of the curiosities of London Life, informs me that the modern Cockney term is sling. In the dress-circle of the Bower Saloon, Stangate, admission 3d., he saw stuck up, four years ago, the notice, "Gentlemen are requested not to sling," and being philologically disposed, he asked the attendant the meaning of the word.]

[Footnote 54: askew. Doyle, squint. Gloucestershire. Halliwell.]

[Footnote 55: Codde, of mannys pryuyte (preuy membris). Piga, mentula. Promptorium Parvulorum.]

[Footnote 56: Mowe or skorne, Vangia vel valgia. Catholicon, in P.P.]

[Footnote 57: [Gh]yxy Singulcio. [Gh]yxynge singultus. P.P. To yexe, sobbe, or haue the hicket. Singultio. Baret. To yexe or sobbe, Hicken, To Hick, or to have the Hick-hock. Hexham.]

[Footnote 58: ? shorewise, as shores. 'Schore, undur settynge of a ynge at wolde falle.' P. Parv. Du. Schooren, To Under-prop. Aller eschays, To shale, stradle, goe crooked, or wide betweene the feet, or legs. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 59: Dutch Schrobben, To Rubb, to Scrape, to Scratch. Hexham.]

[Footnote 60: Iettyn verno. P. Parv. Mr Way quotes from Palsgrave, "I iette, I make a countenaunce with my legges, ie me iamboye," &c.; and from Cotgrave, "Iamboyer, to iet, or wantonly to go in and out with the legs," &c.]

[Footnote 61: grinding.]

[Footnote 62: gnastyn (gnachyn) Fremo, strideo. Catholicon. Gnastyng of the tethe—stridevr, grincement. Palsg. Du. gnisteren, To Gnash, or Creake with the teeth. Hexham.]

[Footnote 63: Short coats and tight trousers were a great offence to old writers accustomed to long nightgown clothes. Compare Chaucer's complaint in the Canterbury Tales, The Parsones Tale, De Superbi, p.193, col. 2, ed. Wright. "Upon that other syde, to speke of the horrible disordinat scantnes of clothing, as ben these cuttid sloppis or anslets, that thurgh her schortnes ne covereth not the schamful membre of man, to wickid entent. Alas! som men of hem schewen the schap and the boce of the horrible swollen membres, that semeth like to the maladies of hirnia, in the wrapping of here hose, and eek the buttokes of hem, that faren as it were the hinder part of a sche ape in the fulle of the moone." The continuation of the passage is very curious. "Youre schort gownys thriftlesse" are also noted in the song in Harl. MS. 372. See Weste, Booke of Demeanour, l.141, below.]

[Footnote 64: Fr. tache, spot, staine, blemish, reproach.C.]

[Footnote 65: sobriety, gravity.]

[Footnote 66: Edward IV. had 'Bannerettes IIII, or Bacheler Knights, to be kervers and cupberers in this courte.' H. Ord., p.32.]

[Footnote 67: See the Termes of a Keruer in Wynkyn de Worde's Boke of Keruynge below.]

[Footnote 68: to embrew. Ferrum tingere sanguine. Baret.]

[Footnote 69: The table-knife, 'Mensal knyfe, or borde knyfe, Mensalis,' P. Parv., was, Isuppose, alighter knife than the trencher-knife used for cutting trenchers off very stale coarse loaves.]

[Footnote 70: ? Fr. pareil, A match or fellow.C.]

[Footnote 71: A.S. gramian, to anger.]

[Footnote 72: Sowce mete, Succidium. P. Parv.]

[Footnote 73: ? Crop or crawe, or cropon of a beste (croupe or cropon), Clunis. P. Parv. Crops are emptied before birds are cooked.]

[Footnote 74: A.S. beniman, take away, deprive.]

[Footnote 75: Fr. achever, To atchieue; to end, finish. Cot.]

[Footnote 76: Hwyr, cappe (hure H.), Tena. A.S. hufe, atiara, ornament. Promptorium Parv.]

[Footnote 77: Chyne, of bestys bakke. Spina. P. Parv.]

[Footnote 78: slices, strips.]

[Footnote 79: 'De haute graisse, Full, plumpe, goodlie, fat, well-fed, in good liking.' Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 80: Fr. arracher. To root vp ... pull away by violence. Cotgrave. [[Compare, "and the Geaunte pulled and drough, but he myght hym not a-race from the sadell." Merlin, Pt. II. p. 346 (E.E.T. Soc. 1866).]] ]

[Footnote 81: The Bittern or Bittour, Ardea Stellaris.]

[Footnote 82: Egrette, as Aigrette; Afoule that resembles a Heron. Aigrette (Afoule verie like a Heron, but white); acriell Heron, or dwarfe Heron. Cot. Ardea alba, Acrielle or dwarfe heron. Cooper.]

[Footnote 83: Snype, or snyte, byrde, Ibex. P.P. Asnipe or snite: abird lesse than a woodcocke. Gallinago minor, &c.Baret.]

[Footnote 84: A small Heron or kind of Heron; Shakspere's editors' handsaw. The spelling heronshaw misled Cotgrave, &c.; he has Haironniere. Aherons neast, or ayrie; aherne-shaw or shaw of wood, wherein herons breed. 'An Hearne. Ardea. A hearnsew, Ardeola.' Baret, 1580. 'Fr. heronceau, ayoung heron, gives E. heronshaw,' Wedgwood. Icannot find heronceau, only heronneau. 'A yong herensew is lyghter of dygestyon than a crane. A. Borde. Regyment, fol. Fi, ed. 1567. 'In actual application a heronshaw, hernshaw or hernsew, is simply a Common Heron (Ardea Vulgaris) with no distinction as to age, &c.' Atkinson.]

[Footnote 85: The Brewe is mentioned three times, and each time in connection with the Curlew. Ibelieve it to be the Whimbrel (Numenius Phopus) or Half Curlew. Ihave a recollection (or what seems like it) of having seen the name with a French form like Whimbreau. [Pennant's British Zoology, ii. 347, gives Le petit Courly, ou le Courlieu, as the French synonym of the Whimbrel.] Morris (Orpen) says the numbers of the Whimbrel are lessening from their being sought as food. Atkinson.]

[Footnote 86: "The singular structure of the windpipe and its convolutions lodged between the two plates of bone forming the sides of the keel of the sternum of this bird (the Crane) have long been known. The trachea or windpipe, quitting the neck of the bird, passes downwards and backwards between the branches of the merry-thought towards the inferior edge of the keel, which is hollowed out to receive it. Into this groove the trachea passes, ... and after making three turns passes again forwards and upwards and ultimately backwards to be attached to the two lobes of the lungs." Yarrell, Brit. Birds ii. 441. Atkinson.]

[Footnote 87: Way, manner. Plyte or state (plight, P.). Status. P. Parv.]

[Footnote 88: A sort of gristle, the tendon of the neck. Germ. flachse, Brockett. And see Wheatley's Dict. of Reduplicated Words.]

[Footnote 89: The 'canelle boon' between the hind legs must be the pelvis, or pelvic arch, or else the ilium or haunch-bone: and in cutting up the rabbit many good carvers customarily disjoint the haunch-bones before helping any one to the rump. Atkinson.]

[Footnote 90: Rabet, yonge conye, Cunicellus. P. Parv. 'The Conie beareth her Rabettes xxx dayes, and then kindeleth, and then she must be bucked againe, for els she will eate vp hir Rabets. 1575. Geo. Turbervile, The Booke of Venerie, p.178, ch. 63.' —H.H. Gibbs.]

[Footnote 91: slices, or rather strips.]

[Footnote 92: board-cloth, table-cloth.]

[Footnote 93: Part IV. of Liber Cure Cocorum, p.38-42, is 'of bakun mete.' On Dishes and Courses generally, see Randle Holme, Bk. III. Chap. III. p.77-86.]

[Footnote 94: rere a cofyn of flowre so fre. L.C.C., p.38, l.8. The crust of a raised pie.]

[Footnote 95: for thin; see line 486.]

[Footnote 96: ? A dish of batter somewhat like our Yorkshire Pudding; not the Crustade or pie of chickens, pigeons, and small birds of the Household Ordinances, p.442, and Crustate of flesshe of Liber Cure, p.40.]

[Footnote 97: ? buche de bois. A logge, backe stocke, or great billet. Cot. Isuppose the buche to refer to the manner of checkering the custard, buche-wise, and not to be a dish. Venison is 'chekkid,' l.388-9. This rendering is confirmed by The Boke of Keruynge's "Custarde, cheke them inch square" (in Keruynge of Flesshe). Another possible rendering of buche as a dish of batter or the like, seems probable from the 'Bouce Jane, adish in Ancient Cookery' (Wright's Prov^l.Dict^y.), but the recipe for it in Household Ordinances, p.431, shows that it was a stew, which could not be checkered or squared. It consisted of milk boiled with chopped herbs, half-roasted chickens or capons cut into pieces, 'pynes and raysynges of corance,' all boiled together. In Household Ordinances, p.162-4, Bouche, or Bouche of court, is used for allowance. The 'Knights and others of the King's Councell,' &c., had each 'for their Bouch in the morning one chet loafe, one manchet, one gallon of ale; for afternoone, one manchett, one gallon of ale; for after supper, one manchett, &c.']

[Footnote 98: See the recipe, end of this volume. In Sir John Howard's Household Books is an entry in 1467, 'for viij boshelles of flour for dowsetes vj s. viij d.' p.396, ed. 1841. See note 5 to l.699, below.]

[Footnote 99: The last recipe in The Forme of Cury, p.89, is one for Payn Puff, but as it refers to the preceding receipt, that is given first here.

THE PETY P{ER}UAU{N}T.[*] XX IX.XV.[= 195]

Take male Marow. hole parade, and kerue it rawe; powd{our} of Gyng{ur}, yolk{is} of Ayren{e}, dat{is} mynced, raisos of corace, salt a lytel, & loke {a}t {o}u make y past with [gh]olkes of Ayren, & at no wat{er} come {er}to; and fo{ur}me y coffyn, and make up y past.

PAYN PUFF XX IX.XVI[= 196]

Eodem m{odo} fait payn puff, but make it more tendre ^e past, and loke ^e past be rou{n}de of ^e payn puf as a coffyn & apye.

Randle Holme treats of Puffe, Puffs, and Pains, p.84, col. 1,2, but does not mention Payn Puff. 'Payn puffe, and pety-pettys, and cuspis and doucettis,' are mentioned among the last dishes of a service on Flessh-Day (H. Ord., p.450), but no recipe for either is given in the book.]

[Footnote 99*: Glossed Petypanel, a Marchpayne. Leland, Coll. vi. p.6. Pegge.]

[Footnote 100: In lines 707, 748, the pety perueys come between the fish and pasties. Icannot identify them as fish. Isuppose they were pies, perhaps The Pety Peruaunt of note 2 above; or better still, the fish-pies, Petipetes (or pety-pettys of the last note), which Randle Holme says 'are Pies made of Carps and Eels, first roasted, and then minced, and with Spices made up in Pies.']

[Footnote 101: De cibi elecc{i}one: (Sloane MS. 1986, fol. 59 b, and elsewhere,) "Frixa nocent, elixa fouent, assata cohercent."]

[Footnote 102: Meat, sage, & poached, fritters?]

[Footnote 103: Recipe in L. Cure, p. 39.]

[Footnote 104: There is a recipe 'for a Tansy Cake' in Lib. C., p.50. Cogan says of Tansie,— "it auoideth fleume.... Also it killeth worms, and purgeth the matter whereof they be engendred. Wherefore it is much vsed among vs in England, about Easter, with fried Egs, not without good cause, to purge away the fleume engendred of fish in Lent season, whereof worms are soone bred in them that be thereto disposed." Tansey, says Bailey (Dict. Domesticum) is recommended for the dissipating of wind in the stomach and belly. He gives the recipe for 'A Tansy' made of spinage, milk, cream, eggs, grated bread and nutmeg, heated till it's as thick as a hasty pudding, and then baked.]

[Footnote 105: Slices or strips of meat, &c., in sauce. See note to l.516, p.34.]

[Footnote 106: Recipe 'For Sirup,' Liber Cure, p.43, and 'Syrip for a Capon or Faysant,' H. Ord. p.440.]

[Footnote 107: potages, soups.]

[Footnote 108: Soppes in Fenell, Slitte Soppes, H. Ord. p.445.]

[Footnote 109: Recipe for a Cawdel, L. C. C. p.51.]

[Footnote 110: Recipes for Gele in Chekyns or of Hennes, and Gele of Flesshe, H. Ord. p.437.]

[Footnote 111: A.S. roppas, the bowels.]

[Footnote 112: "leeche" is a slice or strip, H. Ord. p.472 (440), p.456 (399)—'cut hit on leches as hit were pescoddes,' p.439,—and also a stew or dish in which strips of pork, &c., are cooked. See Leche Lumbarde, H. Ord. p. 438-9. Fr. lesche, along slice or shiue of bread, &c. Cot. Hic lesca Ae, scywe (shive or slice), Wright's Vocab. p. 198: hec lesca, aschyfe, p.241. See also Mr Way's long note 1, Prompt. Parv., p. 292, and the recipes for 64 different "Leche vyaundys" in MS. Harl. 279, that he refersto.]

[Footnote 113: For Potages see Part I. of Liber Cure Cocorum, p.7-27.]

[Footnote 114: Recipe for Potage de Frumenty in H. Ord. p.425, and for Furmente in Liber Cure, p.7, H. Ord. p. 462.]

[Footnote 115: Recipe 'For gruel of fors,' Lib. C. p.47, and H. Ord. p.425.]

[Footnote 116: ? minced or powdered beef: Fr. gravelle, small grauell or sand. Cot. 'Powdred motoun,' l.533, means sprinkled, salted.]

[Footnote 117: Recipes for 'Mortrewes de Chare,' Lib. C. p.9; 'of fysshe,' p.19; blanched, p.13; and H. Ord. pp. 438, 454, 470.]

[Footnote 118: Butter of Almonde mylke, Lib. C. p.15; H. Ord. p.447.]

[Footnote 119: See the recipe, p. 145.]

[Footnote 120: Recipe for Tartlotes in Lib. C.C. p.41.]

[Footnote 121: Recipe for Cabaches in H. Ord. p.426, and caboches, p.454, both the vegetable. There is a fish caboche in the 15th cent. Nominale in Wright's Vocab. Hic caput, A^e, Caboche, p.189, col. 1, the bullhead, or miller's thumb, called in French chabot.]

[Footnote 122: See two recipes for Nombuls in Liber Cure, p.10, and for 'Nombuls of a Dere,' in H. Ord. p.427.]

[Footnote 123: For Sauces (Salsamenta) see Part II. of Liber Cure, p.27-34.]

[Footnote 124: Recipe 'for lumbardus Mustard' in Liber Cure, p.30.]

[Footnote 125: Fleshe poudred or salted. Caro salsa, vel salita. Withals.]

[Footnote 126: The juice of unripe grapes. See Maison Rustique, p.620.]

[Footnote 127: Chaudwyn, l. 688 below. See a recipe for "Chaudern for Swannes" in Household Ordinances, p.441; and for "andon (MS. chaudon [*]) for wylde digges, swannus and piggus," in Liber Cure, p.9, and "Sawce for swannus," Ibid. p.29. It was made of chopped liver and entrails boiled with blood, bread, wine, vinegar, pepper, cloves, and ginger.]

[Footnote 127*: Sloane 1986, p. 48, or fol. 27 b. It is not safe to differ from Mr Morris, but on comparing the C of 'Chaudo for swann{is},' col. 1, with that of 'Caudell{e} of almonde,' at the top of the second col., Ihave no doubt that the letter is C. So on fol. 31 b. the C of Chaudon is more like the C of Charlet opposite than the T of Take under it. The C of Caudel dalmo{n} on fol. 34 b., and that of Cultellis, fol. 24, l.5, are of the same shape.]

[[Footnote 127a: Pepper. "The third thing is Pepper, asauce for vplandish folkes: for they mingle Pepper with Beanes and Peason. Likewise of toasted bread with Ale or Wine, and with Pepper, they make a blacke sauce, as if it were pap, that is called pepper, and that they cast vpon theyr meat, flesh and fish." Reg. San. Salerni, p.67.]]

[Footnote 128: See the recipe "To make Gynger Sause" in H. Ord. p.441, and "For sawce gynger," L.C.C. p.52.]

[Footnote 129: No doubt the "sawce fyne at men calles camelyne" of Liber Cure, p.30, 'raysons of corouns,' nuts, bread crusts, cloves, ginger, cinnamon, powdered together and mixed with vinegar. "Camelin, sauce cameline, Acertaine daintie Italian sauce." Cot.]

[Footnote 130: A bird mentioned in Archologia, xiii. 341. Hall. See note, l.422.]

[Footnote 131: Shovelars feed most commonly upon the Sea-coast upon cockles and Shell-fish: being taken home, and dieted with new garbage and good meat, they are nothing inferior to fatted Galls. Muffett, p.109. Hic populus, aschevelard (the anas clypeata of naturalists). Wright's Voc., p.253.]

[Footnote 132: See note 6 to line 539, above.]

[Footnote 133: Is not this line superfluous? After 135 stanzas of 4 lines each, we here come to one of 5 lines. Isuspect l.544 is simply de trop. W.W. Skeat.]

[Footnote 134: For the fish in the Poem mentioned by Yarrell, and for references to him, see the list at the end of this Boke of Nurture.]

[Footnote 135: Recipes for "Grene Pesen" are in H. Ord. p.426-7, p.470; and Porre of Pesen, &c.p.444.]

[Footnote 136: Topsell in his Fourfooted Beasts, ed. Rowland, 1658, p.36, says of Beavers, "There hath been taken of them whose tails have weighed four pound weight, and they are accounted a very delicate dish, for being dressed they eat like Barbles: they are used by the Lotharingians and Savoyans [says Bellonius] for meat allowed to be eaten on fish-dayes, although the body that beareth them be flesh and unclean for food. The manner of their dressing is, first roasting, and afterward seething in an open pot, that so the evill vapour may go away, and some in pottage made with Saffron; other with Ginger, and many with Brine; it is certain that the tail and forefeet taste very sweet, from whence came the Proverbe, That sweet is that fish, which is not fish at all."]

[Footnote 137: See the recipe for "Furmente with Purpeys," H. Ord. p.442.]

[Footnote 138: I suppose this to be Seal. If it is Eel, see recipes for "Eles in Surre, Browet, Grav, Brasyle," in H. Ord. p.467-8.]

[Footnote 139: Wynkyn de Worde has 'a salte purpos or sele turrentyne.' If this is right, torrentille must apply to [gh]ele, and be a species of seal: if not, it must be allied to the Trout or Torrentyne, l.835.]

[Footnote 140: Congur in Pyole, H. Ord. p.469. 'I must needs agree with Diocles, who being asked, whether were the better fish, aPike or a Conger: That (said he) sodden, and this broild; shewing us thereby, that all flaggy, slimy and moist fish (as Eeles, Congers, Lampreys, Oisters, Cockles, Mustles, and Scallopes) are best broild, rosted or bakt; but all other fish of a firm substance and drier constitution is rather to be sodden.' Muffett, p.145.]

[Footnote 141: So MS., but grone may mean green, see l.851 and note to it. If not, ? for Fr. gronan, agurnard. The Scotch crowner is a species of gurnard.]

[Footnote 142: Lynge, fysshe, Colin, Palsgrave; but Colin, aSea-cob, or Gull. Cotgrave. See Promptorium, p.296.]

[Footnote 143: Fr. Merlus ou Merluz, A Mellwell, or Keeling, akind of small Cod whereof Stockfish is made. Cotgrave. And see Prompt. Parv. p.348, note 4. "Cod-fish is a great Sea-whiting, called also a Keeling or Melwel." Bennett's Muffett on Food, p.148.]

[Footnote 144: Cogan says of stockfish, "Concerning which fish I will say no more than Erasmus hath written in his Colloquio. There is a kind of fishe, which is called in English Stockfish: it nourisheth no more than a stock. Yet I haue eaten of a pie made onely with Stockefishe, whiche hath been verie good, but the goodnesse was not so much in the fishe as in the cookerie, which may make that sauorie, which of it selfe is vnsavourie ... it is sayd a good Cooke can make you good meate of a whetstone.... Therfore a good Cooke is a good iewell, and to be much made of." "Stockfish whilst it is unbeaten is called Buckhorne, because it is so tough; when it is beaten upon the stock, it is termed stockfish." Muffett. Lord Percy (A.D. 1512) was to have "cxl Stok fisch for the expensys of my house for an hole Yere, after ij.d. obol. the pece," p.7, and "Dccccxlij Salt fisch ... after iiij the pece," besides 9 barrels of white and 10 cades of red herring, 5 cades of Sprats (sprootis), 400 score salt salmon, 3 firkins of salt sturgeon and 5 cags of salt eels.]

[Footnote 145: Fr. Merlan, a Whiting, a Merling. Cot. 'The best Whitings are taken in Tweede, called Merlings, of like shape and vertue with ours, but far bigger.' Muffett, p.174.]

[Footnote 146: MS. may be Cleynes. ? what place can it be; Clayness, Claynose? Claybury is near Woodford in Essex.]

[Footnote 147: A recipe for Pykes in Brasey is in H. Ord. p.451. The head of a Carp, the tail of a Pike, and the Belly of a Bream are most esteemed for their tenderness, shortness, and well rellishing. Muffett, p.177.]

[Footnote 148: Cut it in gobets or lumps a-slope. "Aslet or a-slowte (asloppe, aslope), Oblique." P. Parv. But slout may be slot, bolt of a door, and so aslout = in long strips.]

[Footnote 149: Onions make a man stink and wink. Berthelson, 1754. 'The Onion, though it be the Countrey mans meat, is better to vse than to tast: for he that eateth euerie day tender Onions with Honey to his breakfast, shall liue the more healthfull, so that they be not too new.' Maison Rustique, p.178, ed. 1616.]

[Footnote 150: Recipes for this sauce are in Liber C. p.30, and H. Ord. p.441: powdered crusts, galingale, ginger, and salt, steeped in vinegar and strained. See note to l.634 below.]

[Footnote 151: See "Plays in Cene," that is, Ceue, chives, small onions somewhat like eschalots. H. Ord. p.452. See note 5, l.822. [Footnote 222 in this e-text.]]

[Footnote 152: Of all sea-fish Rochets and Gurnards are to be preferred; for their flesh is firm, and their substance purest of all other. Next unto them Plaise and Soles are to be numbered, being eaten in time; for if either of them be once stale, there is no flesh more carrion-like, nor more troublesome to the belly of man. Mouffet, p.164.]

[Footnote 153: Roches or Loches in Egurdouce, H. Ord. p.469.]

[Footnote 154: Or dacce.]

[Footnote 155: Rivet, roe of a fish. Halliwell. Dan. ravn, rogn (rowne of Pr. Parv.) under which Molbech refers to AS. hrfe (raven, Bosworth) as meaning roe or spawn. G.P. Marsh. But see refeccyon, P. Parv.]

[Footnote 156: See "Soles in Cyne," that is, Cyue, H. Ord. p.452.]

[Footnote 157: Black Sea Bream, or Old Wife. Cantharus griseus. Atkinson. "Abramides Marin. Breams of the Sea be a white and solid substance, good juice, most easie digestion, and good nourishment." Muffett, p.148.]

[Footnote 158: gobbets, pieces, see l. 638.]

[Footnote 159: Fr. Dore: f. The Doree, or Saint Peters fish; also (though not so properly) the Goldfish or Goldenie. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 160: Brett, xxi. He beareth Azure a Birt (or Burt or Berte) proper by the name of Brit.... It is by the Germans termed a Brett-fish or Brett-cock. Randle Holme.]

[Footnote 161: Rec. for Congur in Sause, H. Ord. p.401; in Pyole, p.469.]

[Footnote 162: This must be Randle Holme's "Dog fish or Sea Dog Fish." It is by the Dutch termed a Flackhund, and a Hundfisch: the Skin is hard and redish, beset with hard and sharp scales; sharp and rough and black, the Belly is more white and softer. Bk II. Ch. XIV. No. lv, p.343-4. For names of Fish the whole chapter should be consulted, p.321-345.]

[Footnote 163: 'His flesh is stopping, slimy, viscous, & very unwholesome; and (as Alexander Benedictus writeth) of a most unclean and damnable nourishment ... they engender palsies, stop the lungs, putrifie in the stomach, and bring a man that much eats them to infinite diseases ... they are worst being fried, best being kept in gelly, made strong of wine and spices.' Muffett, p.189.]

[Footnote 164: Recipes for Tenches in grave, L.C.C. p.25; in Cylk (wine, &c.), H. Ord. p. 470; in Bresyle (boiled with spices, &c.), p.468.]

[Footnote 165: Lamprons in Galentyn, H. Ord. p.449. "Lampreys and Lamprons differ in bigness only and in goodness; they are both a very sweet and nourishing meat.... The little ones called Lamprons are best broild, but the great ones called Lampreys are best baked." Muffett, p.181-3. See l.630-40 of this poem.]

[Footnote 166: Wraw, froward, ongoodly. Perversus ... exasperans. Pr. Parv.]

[Footnote 167: for whan, when.]

[Footnote 168: A kind of vinegar; A.S. eisile, vinegar; given to Christ on the Cross.]

[Footnote 169: Escrevisse: f. A Creuice, or Crayfish [see l.618]; (By some Authors, but not so properly, the Crab-fish is also tearmed so.) Escrevisse de mer. A Lobster; or, (more properly) aSea-Creuice. Cotgrave. ACrevice, or a Crefish, or as some write it, aCrevis Fish, are in all respects the same in form, and are a Species of the Lobster, but of a lesser size, and the head is set more into the body of the Crevice than in the Lobster. Some call this a Ganwell. R. Holme, p.338, col. 1, xxx.]

[Footnote 170: No doubt the intestinal tract, running along the middle of the body and tail. Dr Gnther. Of Crevisses and Shrimps, Muffett says, p.177, they "give also a kind of exercise for such as be weak: for head and brest must first be divided from their bodies; then each of them must be dis scaled, and clean picked with much pidling; then the long gut lying along the back of the Crevisse is to be voided."]

[Footnote 171: slice by slice.]

[Footnote 172: The fresh-water crayfish is beautiful eating, Dr Gnther says.]

[Footnote 173: Iolle of a fysshe, teste. Palsgrave. Ioll, as of salmon, &c., caput. Gouldm. in Promptorium, p.264.]

[Footnote 174: For to make a potage of welkes, Liber Cure, p.17. "Perwinkles or Whelks, are nothing but sea-snails, feeding upon the finest mud of the shore and the best weeds." Muffett, p.164.]

[Footnote 175: Pintle generally means the penis; but Dr Gnther says the whelk has no visible organs of generation, though it has a projecting tube by which it takes in water, and the function of this might have been misunderstood. DrG. could suggest nothing for almond, but on looking at the drawing of the male Whelk (Buccinum undatum) creeping, in the Penny Cyclopdia, v.9, p.454, col.2 (art. Entomostomata), it is quite clear that the almond must mean the animal's horny, oval operculum on its hinder part. 'Most spiral shells have an operculum, or lid, with which to close the aperture when they withdraw for shelter. It is developed on a particular lobe at the posterior part of the foot, and consists of horny layers sometimes hardened with shelly matter.' Woodward's Mollusca, p.47.]

[Footnote 176: That part of the integument of mollusca which contains the viscera and secretes the shell, is termed the mantle. Woodward.]

[Footnote 177: Recipe "For lamprays baken," in Liber Cure, p.38.]

[Footnote 178: A sauce made of crumbs, galingale, ginger, salt, and vinegar. See the Recipe in Liber Cure, p.30.]

[Footnote 179: See the duties and allowances of "A Sewar for the Kynge," Edw. IV., in Household Ordinances, pp. 36-7; Henry VII., p.118. King Edmund risked his life for his assewer, p.36.]

[Footnote 180: The word Sewer in the MS. is written small, the flourishes of the big initial O having taken up so much room. The name of the office of sewer is derived from the Old French esculier, or the scutellarius, i.e. the person who had to arrange the dishes, in the same way as the scutellery (scullery) was by rights the place where the dishes were kept. Domestic Architecture, v.3, p.80n.]

[Footnote 181: See the duties and allowances of "A Surveyour for the Kyng" (Edw. IV.) in Household Ord. p.37. Among other things he is to see 'that no thing be purloyned,' (cf. line 680 below), and the fourty Squyers of Household who help serve the King's table from 'the surveying bourde' are to see that 'of every messe that cummyth from the dressing bourde ... thereof be nothing withdrawe by the squires.' ib. p.45.]

[Footnote 182: Squyers of Houshold xl ... xx squires attendaunt uppon the Kings (Edw. IV.) person in ryding ... and to help serve his table from the surveying bourde. H. Ord. p.45. Sergeauntes of Armes IIII., whereof ii alway to be attending uppon the Kings person and chambre.... In like wise at the conveyaunce of his meate at every course from the surveying bourde, p.47.]

[Footnote 183: Compare the less gorgeous feeds specified on pp. 54-5 of Liber Cure, and pp. 449-50 of Household Ordinances. Also with this and the following 'Dinere of Fische' should be compared "the Diett for the King's Majesty and the Queen's Grace" on a Flesh Day and a Fish Day, A.D. 1526, contained in Household Ordinances, p.174-6. Though Harry the Eighth was king, he was allowed only two courses on each day, as against the Duke of Gloucester's three given here. The daily cost for King and Queen was 4. 3s. 4d.; yearly, 1520. 13s. 4d. See also in Markham's Houswife, pp. 98-101, the ordering of 'extraordinary great Feasts of Princes' as well as those 'for much more humble men.']

[Footnote 184: See Recipes for Bor in Counfett, Boor in Brasey, Bore in Egurdouce, in H. Ord. p.435.]

[Footnote 185: Chair de mouton manger de glouton: Pro. Flesh of a Mutton is food for a glutton; (or was held so in old times, when Beefe and Bacon were your onely dainties.) Cot.]

[Footnote 186: The rule for the succession of dishes is stated in Liber Cure, p.55, as whole-footed birds first, and of these the greatest, as swan, goose, and drake, to precede. Afterwards come baked meats and other dainties.]

[Footnote 187: See note to l. 535 above.]

[Footnote 188: See the Recipe for Leche Lumbard in Household Ordinances, p.438. Pork, eggs, pepper, cloves, currants, dates, sugar, powdered together, boiled in a bladder, cut into strips, and served with hot rich sauce.]

[Footnote 189: Meat fritter ?, mentioned in l. 501.]

[Footnote 190: See "Blaumanger to Potage" p. 430 of Household Ordinances; Blawmangere, p.455; Blonc Manger, L.C.C. p.9, and Blanc Maungere of fysshe, p.19.]

[Footnote 191: "Gele in Chekyns or of Hennes," and "Gelle of Flesshe," H. Ord. p.437.]

[Footnote 192: See the recipe "At a Feeste Roiall, Pecockes shall be dight on this Manere," H. Ord. p.439; but there he is to be served "forthe with the last cours." The hackle refers, Isuppose, to his being sown in his skin when cold after roasting.]

[Footnote 193: The fat of Rabet-suckers, and little Birds, and small Chickens, is not discommendable, because it is soon and lightly overcome of an indifferent stomack. Muffett, p.110.]

[Footnote 194: Recipe at end of this volume. Dowcet mete, or swete cake mete (bake mete, P.) Dulceum, ductileus. P. Parv. Dousette, alytell flawne, dariolle. Palsgrave. Fr. flannet; m. Adoucet or little custard. Cot. See note 1 to l.494 above.]

[Footnote 195: May be Iely, amber jelly, instead of a beautiful amber leche.]

[Footnote 196: See the note to line 499.]

[Footnote 197: Compare "For a servise on fysshe day," Liber Cure, p.54, and Household Ordinances, p.449.]

[Footnote 198: For of. See 'Sewes on Fische Dayes,' l.821.]

[Footnote 199: ? for bellies: see 'the baly of e fresch samoun,' l.823 in Sewes on Fische Dayes; or it may be for the sounds or breathing apparatus.]

[Footnote 200: Pykes in Brasey, H. Ord. p.451.]

[Footnote 201: Purpesses, Tursons, or sea-hogs, are of the nature of swine, never good till they be fat ... it is an unsavoury meat ... yet many Ladies and Gentlemen love it exceedingly, bak'd like venison. Mouffet, p.165.]

[Footnote 202: ? due-ing, that is, service; not moistening.]

[Footnote 203: Rhombi. Turbuts ... some call the Sea-Pheasant ... whilst they be young ... they are called Butts. They are best being sodden. Muffett, p.173. "Pegeons, buttes, and elis," are paid for as hakys (hawks) mete, on x Sept. 6 R. H(enry VII) in the Howard Household Books, 1481-90, p.508.]

[Footnote 204: Gulls, Guffs, Pulches, Chevins, and Millers-thombs are a kind of jolt-headed Gudgins, very sweet, tender, and wholesome. Muffett, p.180. Randle Holme says, 'A Chevyn or a Pollarde; it is in Latin called Capitus, from its great head; the Germans Schwall, or Alet; and Myn or Mouen; aSchupfish, from whence we title it a Chub fish.' ch. xiv. xxvii.]

[Footnote 205: "Creme of Almond Mylk." H. Ord. p.447.]

[Footnote 206: See the recipe, end of this volume.]

[Footnote 207: Compare "leche fryes made of frit and friture," H. Ord. p.449; Servise on Fisshe Day, last line.]

[Footnote 208: Melancholy, full of phlegm: see the superscription l.792 below. 'Flew, complecyon, (fleume of compleccyon, K. flewe, P.) Flegma,' Catholicon in P. Parv.]

[Footnote 209: Mistake for Sotelte.]

[Footnote 210: The first letter of this word is neither a clear t nor c, though more like t than c. It was first written Couse (as if for cou[r]se, succession, which makes good sense) or touse, and then a w was put over the u. If the word is towse, the only others I can find like it are tow, 'towe of hempe or flax,' Promptorium; 'heruper, to discheuell, towse, or disorder the haire.' Cot.]

[Footnote 211: See Recipe at end of volume.]

[Footnote 212: See Recipe at end of volume.]

[Footnote 213: See a recipe for making it of ale, honey, and spices, in [Cogan's] Haven of Health, chap. 239, p.268, in Nares. Phillips leaves out the ale.]

[Footnote 214: Mead, a pleasant Drink made of Honey and Water. Phillips.]

[Footnote 215: A recipe for Musculs in Sewe and Cadel of Musculs to Potage, at p.445 H. Ord. Others 'For mustul (?muscul or Mustela, the eel-powt, Fr. Mustelle, the Powte or Eeele-powte) pie,' and 'For porray of mustuls,' in Liber Cure, p.46-7.]

[Footnote 216: ? a preparation of Muscles, as Applade Ryal (Harl. MS. 279, Recipe Cxxxv.) of Apples, Quinade, Rec. Cxv of Quinces, Pynade (fol. 27 b.) of Pynotis (akind of nut); or is it Meselade or Meslade, fol. 33, an omelette—'to euery good meslade take a owsand eyroun or mo.' Herbelade (fol. 42 b.) is a liquor of boiled lard and herbs, mixed with dates, currants, and 'Pynez,' strained, sugared, coloured, whipped, & put into 'fayre round cofyns.']

[Footnote 217: Eschalotte: f. A Cive or Chiue. Escurs, The little sallade hearb called, Ciues, or Chiues. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 218: For to make potage of oysturs, Liber Cure, p.17. Oysturs in brewette, p.53.]

[Footnote 219: Seales flesh is counted as hard of digestion, as it is gross of substance, especially being old; wherefore I leave it to Mariners and Sailers, for whose stomacks it is fittest, and who know the best way how to prepare it. Muffett, p.167.]

[Footnote 220: Cullis (in Cookery) a strained Liquor made of any sort of dress'd Meat, or other things pounded in a Mortar, and pass'd thro' aHair-sieve: These Cullises are usually pour'd upon Messes, and into hot Pies, alittle before they are serv'd up to Table. Phillips. See also the recipe for making a coleise of a cocke or capon, from the Haven of Health, in Nares. Fr. Coulis: m. Acullis, or broth of boiled meat strained; fit for a sicke, or weake bodie. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 221: Shrimps are of two sorts, the one crookbacked, the other straitbacked: the first sort is called of Frenchmen Caramots de la sant, healthful shrimps; because they recover sick and consumed persons; of all other they are most nimble, witty, and skipping, and of best juice. Muffett, p.167. In cooking them, he directs them to be "unscaled, to vent the windiness which is in them, being sodden with their scales; whereof lust and disposition to venery might arise," p.168.]

[Footnote 222: See the recipe for "Creme of Almonde Mylk," Household Ordinances, p.447.]

[Footnote 223: "Mortrewes of Fysshe," H. Ord. p.469; "Mortrews of fysshe," L.C.C. p.19.]

[Footnote 224: See "Rys Lumbarde," H. Ord. p.438, l.3, 'and if thow wilt have hit stondynge, take rawe [gh]olkes of egges,' &c.]

[Footnote 225: See the Recipe at the end of this volume.]

[Footnote 226: 'Let no fish be sodden or eaten without salt, pepper, wine, onions or hot spices; for all fish (compared with flesh) is cold and moist, of little nourishment, engendring watrish and thin blood.' Muffett, p.146, with a curious continuation. Hoc Sinapium, An^ce. mustarde.

Salgia, sirpillum, piper, alia, sal, petrocillum, Ex hiis sit salsa, non est sentencia falsa. 15th cent. Pict. Vocab. in Wright's Voc. p.267, col. 1.]

[Footnote 227: Spurlings are but broad Sprats, taken chiefly upon our Northern coast; which being drest and pickled as Anchovaes be in Provence, rather surpass them than come behind them in taste and goodness.... As for Red Sprats and Spurlings, Ivouchsafe them not the name of any wholesome nourishment, or rather of no nourishment at all; commending them for nothing, but that they are bawdes to enforce appetite, and serve well the poor mans turn to quench hunger. Muffett, p.169.]

[Footnote 228: A Whiting, a Merling, Fr. Merlan. 'Merling: AStock-fish, or Marling, else Merling; in Latine Marlanus and Marlangus.' R. Holme, p.333, col.1.]

[Footnote 229: After searching all the Dictionaries and Glossaries I could get hold of in the Museum for this Torrentyne, which was the plague of my life for six weeks, Ihad recourse to Dr Gnther. He searched Rondelet and Belon in vain for the word, and then suggested ALDROVANDI as the last resource. In the De Piscibus, Lib. V., Iaccordingly found (where he treats of Trout), "Scoppa, gra{m}maticus Italus, Torentinam nominat, rectius Torrentinam vocaturus, torrentibus nimirum: in his n[ominatim] & riuis montanis abundat." (ed. 1644, cum indice copiosissimo.)]

[Footnote 230: Whales flesh is the hardest of all other, and unusuall to be eaten of our Countrymen, no not when they are very young and tenderest; yet the livers of Whales, Sturgeons, and Dolphins smell like violets, taste most pleasantly being salted, and give competent nourishment, as Cardan writeth. Muffett, p.173, ed. Bennet, 1655.]

[Footnote 231: See the recipe in Liber Cure Cocorum, p.30; and Felettes in Galentyne, H. Ord. p.433.]

[Footnote 232: Veriuse, or sause made of grapes not full ripe, Ompharium. Withals.]

[Footnote 233: Hakes be of the same nature [as Haddocks], resembling a Cod in taste, but a Ling in likeness. Muffett, p.153.]

[Footnote 234: 'Stocke fysshe, they [the French] have none,' says Palsgrave.]

[Footnote 235: Haddocks are little Cods, of light substance, crumbling flesh, and good nourishment in the Sommer time, especially whilst Venison is in season. Muffett, p.153.]

[Footnote 236: Keling. R. Holme, xxiv, p. 334, col. 1, has "He beareth Cules aCod Fish argent. by the name of Codling. Of others termed a Stockfish, or an Haberdine: In the North part of this Kingdome it is called a Keling, In the Southerne parts a Cod, and in the Westerne parts a Welwell."]

[Footnote 237: See the Recipes for 'Pur verde sawce,' Liber Cure, p.27, and 'Vert Sause' (herbs, bread-crumbs, vinegar, pepper, ginger, &c.), H.Ord. p.441. Grene Sause, condimentum harbaceum. Withals. [[There is a herb of an acid taste, the common name for which ... is green-sauce ... not a dozen miles from Stratford-on-Avon. Notes & Queries, June 14, 1851, vol. iii. p. 474. "of Persley leaues stamped withe veriuyce, or white wine, is made a greene sauce to eate with roasted meat ... Sauce for Mutton, Veale and Kid, is greene sauce, made in Summer with Vineger or Verjuyce, with a few spices, and without Garlicke. Otherwise with Parsley, white Ginger, and tosted bread with Vineger. In Winter, the same sawces are made with many spices, and little quantity of Garlicke, and of the best Wine, and with a little Verjuyce, or with Mustard." Reg. San. Salerni, p. 67-8.]] ]

[Footnote 238: Ling perhaps looks for great extolling, being counted the beefe of the Sea, and standing every fish day (as a cold supporter) at my Lord Maiors table; yet it is nothing but a long Cod: whereof the greater sised is called Organe Ling, and the other Codling, because it is no longer then a Cod, and yet hath the taste of Ling: whilst it is new it is called GREEN-FISH; when it is salted it is called Ling, perhaps of lying, because the longer it lyeth ... the better it is, waxing in the end as yellow as the gold noble, at which time they are worth a noble a piece. Muffett, p.154-5.]

[Footnote 239: A brit or turbret, rhombus. Withals, 1556. Bret, Brut, or Burt, aFish of the Turbot-kind. Phillips.]

[Footnote 240: These duties of the Chamberlain, and those of him in the Wardrobe which follow, should be compared with the chapter De Officio Garcionum of "The Boke of Curtasye" ll. 435-520 below. See also the duties and allowances of 'A Chamberlayn for the King.' H. Ord. p.31-2. He has only to see that the men under him do the work mentioned in these pages. See office of Warderobe of Bedds, H.O. p.40; Gromes of Chambyr, x, Pages of Chambre, IIII, H.O., p.41, &c.The arraying and unarraying of Henry VII. were done by the Esquires of the Body, H. Ord. p.118, two of whom lay outside his room.]

[Footnote 241: A short or small coat worn under the long over-coat. Petycote, tunicula, P.P., and '.j. petticote of lynen clothe withought slyves,' there cited from Sir J. Fastolfe's Wardrobe, 1459. Archol. xxi. 253. subucula, le, est etiam genus intim vestis, apeticote. Withals.]

[Footnote 242: Vamps or Vampays, an odd kind of short Hose or Stockings that cover'd the Feet, and came up only to the Ancle, just above the Shooe; the Breeches reaching down to the Calf of the Leg. Whence to graft a new Footing on old Stockings is still call'd Vamping. Phillips. Fairholt does not give the word. The Vampeys went outside the sock, Ipresume, as no mention is made of them with the socks and slippers after the bath, l.987; but Strutt, and Fairholt after him, have engraved a drawing which shows that the Saxons wore the sock over the stocking, both being within the shoe. 'Vampey of a hose—auant pied. Vauntpe of a hose—uantpie.' Palsgrave. A.D. 1467, 'fore vaunpynge of a payre for the said Lew vj.d.' p.396, Manners & Household Expenses, 1841.]

[Footnote 242a: ? perhaps a comma should go after hed, and 'his cloak or cape' as a side-note. But see cappe, p. 65, l. 964.]

[Footnote 243: Henry VII. had a fustian and sheet under his feather bed, over the bed a sheet, then 'the over fustian above,' and then 'a pane of ermines' like an eider-down quilt. 'A head sheete of raynes' and another of ermines were over the pillows. After the ceremony of making the bed, all the esquires, ushers, and others present, had bread, ale, and wine, outside the chamber, 'and soe to drinke altogether.' H. Ord. p.122.]

[Footnote 244: A siege house, sedes excrementorum. Adraught or priuie, latrina. Withals.]

[Footnote 245: An arse wispe, penicillum, -li, vel anitergium. Withals. From a passage in William of Malmesbury's autograph De Gestis Pontificum Anglorum it would seem that water was the earlier cleanser.]

[Footnote 246: In the MS. this line was omitted by the copier, and inserted in red under the next line by the corrector, who has underscored all the chief words of the text in red, besides touching up the capital and other letters.]

[Footnote 247: See the 'Warderober,' p. 37, and the 'office of Warderobe of Robes,' in H. Ord. p.39.]

[Footnote 248:

o lord{e} schalle shyft hys gown{e} at ny[gh]t, Syttand on foteshete tyl he be dy[gh]t. The Boke of Curtasye, l. 487-8.]

[Footnote 249: Morter ... a kind of Lamp or Wax-taper. Mortarium (in old Latin records) aMortar, Taper, or Light set in Churches, to burn over the Graves or Shrines of the Dead. Phillips.]

[Footnote 250: Perchers, the Paris-Candles formerly us'd in England; also the bigger sort of Candles, especially of Wax, which were commonly set upon the Altars. Phil.]

[[Footnote 250a: The nuisance that the number of Dogs must have been may be judged of by the following payments in the Church-Wardens' Accounts of St Margaret's, Westminster, in Nichols, p. 34-5.

1625 Item paid to the dog-killer for killing of dogs 0. 9. 8. 1625 Item paid to the dog-killer more for killing 14 dozen and 10 dogs in time of visitacion 1. 9. 8. 1625 Item paid to the dog-killer for killing of 24 dozen of dogs 1. 8.

See the old French satire on the Lady and her Dogs, in Rel. Ant. i. 155.]]

[Footnote 251: The Boke of Curtasye (l. 519-20) lets the (chief) usher who puts the lord to bed, go his way, and says

[Gh]omo{n} vssher be-fore e dore In vtter chamb{ur} lies on e flor{e}.]

[Transcriber's Note: Footnote 252 contains supplementary notes for some items in this stanza, lines 991-994. Note that there is no independent Footnote 260 ("hey hove"), and that "bilgres" was not marked. Numbers in parentheses are the note numbers as originally printed.]

[Footnote 252: See note at end. Mr Gillett, of the Vicarage, Runham, Filby, Norwich, sends me these notes on the herbs for this Bathe Medicinable: —253 (2): "YARDEHOK = Mallow, some species. They are all more or less mucilaginous and emollient. If Yarde = Virga; then it is Marshmallow, or Malva Sylvestris; if yarde = erde, earth; then the rotundifolia. —254 (3): PARITORY is Pellitory of the wall, parietaria. Wall pellitory abounds in nitrate of potass. There are two other pellitories: 'P. of Spain'—this is Pyrethrum, which the Spanish corrupted into pelitre, and we corrupted pelitre into pellitory. The other, bastard-pellitory, is Achillea Ptarmica. —255 (4): BROWN FENNELLE = probably Peucedanum officinale, Hog's fennel, adangerous plant; certainly not Anethum Graveolens, which is always dill, dyle, dile, &c. —259 (8): RYBBEWORT, Plantago lanceolata, mucilaginous. —260 (9): HEYHOVE = Glechoma hederacea, bitter and aromatic, abounding in a principle like camphor. —261 (10): HEYRIFF = harif = Galium Aparine, and allied species. They were formerly considered good for scorbutic diseases, when applied externally. Lately, in France, they have been administered internally against epilepsy. —263 (12): BRESEWORT; if = brisewort or bruisewort, it would be Sambucus Ebulus, but this seems most unlikely. —265 [unlabeled, 1 on next page] BROKELEMPK = brooklime. Veronica Beccabunga, formerly considered as an anti-scorbutic applied externally. It is very inert. If a person fed on it, it might do some good, i.e. about a quarter of the good that the same quantity of water-cress would do. —267 [unlabeled] BILGRES, probably = henbane, hyoscysmus niger. Compare Dutch [Du. Bilsen, Hexham,] and German Bilse. Bil = byle = boil, modern. It was formerly applied externally, with marsh-mallow and other mucilaginous and emollient plants, to ulcers, boils, &c.It might do great good if the tumours were unbroken, but is awfully dangerous. So is Peucedanum officinale. My Latin names are those of Smith: English Flora. Babington has re-named them, and Bentham again altered them. Ilike my mumpsimus better than their sumpsimus."]

[Footnote 253: 'The common Mallowe, or the tawle wilde Mallow, and the common Hockes' of Lyte's Dodoens, 1578, p.581, Malua sylvestris, as distinguished from the Malua sativa, or "Rosa vltramarina, that is to say, the Beyondesea Rose, in Frenche, Maulue de iardin or cultiue ... in English, Holyhockes, and great tame Mallow, or great Mallowes of the Garden." The "Dwarffe Mallowe ... is called Malua syluestris pumila."]

[Footnote 254: Peritory, parietaria, vrseolaris, vel astericum. Withals.]

[Footnote 255: ? The sweet Fennel, Anethum Graveolens, formerly much used in medicine (Thomson). The gigantic fennel is (Ferula) Assafoetida.]

[Footnote 256: Sambucus ebulus, Danewort. See Mr Gillett's note for Book of Quintessence in Hampole's Treatises. Fr. hieble, Wallwort, dwarfe Elderne, Danewort. Cotgr.]

[Footnote 257: Erbe In', or Seynt Ionys worte. Perforata, fuga demonum, ypericon. P. Parv.]

[Footnote 258: Centaury.]

[Footnote 259: Ribwort, arnoglossa. Ribwoort or ribgrasse, plantago. Withals. Plantain petit. Ribwort, Ribwort Plantaine, Dogs-rib, Lambes-tongue. Cotgrave. Plantago lanceolata, AS. ribbe.]

[Footnote 260: No separate note: see Footnote 252, above.]

[Footnote 261: Haylife, an herbe. Palsgr. Galium aparine, A.S. hegerifan corn, grains of hedgerife (hayreve, or hayreff), are among the herbs prescribed in Leechdoms, v.2, p.345, for "a salve against the elfin race & nocturnal [goblin] visitors, & for the woman with whom the devil hath carnal commerce."]

[Footnote 262: Herba Benedicta. Avens.]

[Footnote 263: Herbe a foulon. Fullers hearbe, Sopewort, Mocke-gillouers, Bruisewort. Cotgrave. "AS. 1. brysewyrt, pimpernel, anagallis. Anagallis, brisewort." Gl. Rawlinson, c.506, Gl. Harl. 3388. Leechdoms, vol. 1, p.374. 2. Bellis perennis, MS. Laud. 553, fol. 9. Plainly for Hembriswyrt, daisy, AS. dges eage. "Consolida minor. Daysie is an herbe at sum men callet hembrisworte oer bonewort." Gl. Douce, 290. Cockayne. Leechdoms, v.2, Glossary.]

[Footnote 264: Persil de marais. Smallage; or, wild water Parseley. Cot.]

[Footnote 265: Brokelyme fabaria. Withals. Veronica Becabunga, Water-Speedwell. Hleomoce, Hleomoc, brooklime (where lime is the Saxon name (Hleomoc) in decay), Veronica beccabunga, with V. anagallis ... "It waxeth in brooks" ... Both sorts Lemmike, Dansk. They were the greater and the less "brokelemke," Gl. Bodley, 536. "Fabaria domestica lemeke." Gl. Rawl. c.607.... Islandic Lemiki. Cockayne. Gloss. to Leechdoms, v.2. It is prescribed, with the two centauries, for suppressed menses, and with pulegium, to bring a dead child away, &c. Ib. p.331.]

[Footnote 266: Scabiosa, the Herb Scabious, so call'd from its Virtue in curing the Itch; it is also good for Impostumes, Coughs, Pleurisy, Quinsey, &c.Phillips.]

[Footnote 267: See footnote 258, above.]

[Footnote 268: See the duties and allowances of 'The Gentylmen Usshers of Chaumbre .IIII. of Edw. IV.', in H. Ord. p.37; and the duties of Henry VIII's Knight Marshal, ib. p.150.]

[Footnote 269: Queenborough, an ancient, but poor town of Kent, in the Isle of Sheppey, situated at the mouth of the river Medway. The chief employment of the inhabitants is oyster-dredging. Walker's Gazetteer, by Kershaw, 1801.]

[Footnote 270: The Annual Receipts of the Monastery "de Tinterna in M{ar}chia Wallie," are stated in the Valor Eccl. vol. iv. p.370-1, and the result is s. d. S{u}m{m}a to{ta}lis clar{e} val{oris} dec' predict' cclviij v x ob' Decima inde xxv xvj vj ob'q'

Those of the Monasteriu{m} Sancti Petri Westm. are given at v.1, p.410-24, and their net amount stated to be 4470 02d.

[Transcriber's Note: Roman numerals shown as ^x were printed as superscripts (iij^c = CCC).] s. d. Et reman{ent} clare M^lM^lM^liiij^clxx — ij q' Decima inde iij^cxlvij — — q']

[Footnote 271: The clear revenue of the Deanery of Canterbury (Decan' Cantuar') is returned in Valor Eccl. v.1, p.27-32, at 163 0 21d. s. d. Rem' clxiij — xxi Decima p{ar}s inde xvj vj ij

while that of Prioratus de Dudley is only

s. d. S{u}m{m}a de claro xxxiiij — xvj Decima p{ar}s inde iij viij j ob'q'

Valor Ecclesiasticus, v.3, p. 104-5.]

[Footnote 272: Dudley, a town of Worcestershire, insulated in Staffordshire, containing about 2000 families, most of whom are employed in the manufacture of nails and other iron wares. Walker, 1801.]

[Footnote 273: Two lines are wanting here to make up the stanza. They must have been left out when the copier turned his page, and began again.]

[Footnote 274: The word in the MS. is syngle or synglr with a line through the l. It may be for {syng}u{ler}, singulus, i. unus per se, sunderly, vocab. in Rel. Ant. v.1, p.9, col.1.]

[Footnote 275: Credence as creance ... a taste or essay taken of another man's meat. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 276: Compare The Boke of Curtasye, l.495-8,

No mete for mo{n} schall{e} sayed be Bot for kynge or prynce or duke so fre; For heiers of paraunce also y-wys Mete shall{e} be seyed.]

[Footnote 277: Gardmanger (Fr.) a Storehouse for meat. Blount, ed. 1681, Garde-viant, aWallet for a Soldier to put his Victuals in. Phillipps, ed. 1701.]

[Footnote 278: The Boke of Curtasye makes the Sewer alone assay or taste 'alle the mete' (line 763-76), and the Butler the drink (line 786).]

* * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTES.

[Transcriber's Note:

Numbering of linenotes does not always correspond exactly to a word's place in the main text. References that are off by only a line or two have not been corrected.]

l. 11-12. John Russell lets off his won't-learns very easily. Willyam Bulleyn had a different treatment for them. See the extract from him on "Boxyng & Neckweede" after these Notes.

l. 49. See the interesting "Lord Fairfax's Orders for the Servants of his Houshold" [after the Civil Wars], in Bishop Percy's notes to the Northumberland Household Book, p.421-4, ed. 1827.

l. 51. Chip. 'other .ij. pages ... them oweth to chippe bredde, but not too nye the crumme.' H. Ord. p.71-2. The "Chippings of Trencher-Brede" in Lord Percy's household were used "for the fedyinge of my lords houndis." Percy H. Book, p.353. [["Non comedas crustam, colorem quia gignit adustam ... the Authour in this Text warneth vs, to beware of crusts eating, because they ingender a-dust cholor, or melancholly humours, by reason that they bee burned and dry. And therefore great estates the which be [orig. the] chollerick of nature, cause the crustes aboue and beneath to be chipped away; wherfore the pith or crumme should be chosen, the which is of a greater nourishment then the crust." Regimen Sanitatis Salerni, ed. 1634, p. 71. Fr. chapplis, bread-chippings. Cotgrave.]]

l. 52. Trencher. The College servant 'Scrape Trencher,' R. Holme, Bk. III., Chap. iv., p.099 [199], notes the change of material from bread to wood. [[Note renamed and moved from l. 94; see Corrigenda]]

l. 56. Trencher bread. ITEM that the Trencher Brede be maid of the Meale as it cummyth frome the Milne. Percy Household Book, p.58.

l.66. Cannell, aSpout, atap, a cocke in a conduit. Epistomium. Vne canelle, vn robinet. Baret.

l. 68. Faucet. Also he [the yeoman of the Butler of Ale] asketh allowaunce for tubbys, treyes, and faucettes, occupied all the yeare before. H. Ord. p.77.

l. 74. Figs. A. Borde, Introduction, assigns the gathering of figs to "the Mores whych do dwel in Barbary," ... "and christen men do by them, & they wil be diligent and wyl do al maner of seruice, but they be set most comonli to vile things; they be called slaues, thei do gader grapes and fygges, and with some of the fygges they wyl wip ther tayle, & put them in the frayle." Figs he mentions under Juda. "Iury is called y^e lande of Iude, it is a noble countre of ryches, plenty of wine & corne ... Figges and Raysions, & all other frutes." In his Regyment, fol. M. iii., Borde says of 'Fygges ... They doth stere a man to veneryous actes, for they doth auge and increase the seede of generacion. And also they doth prouoke a man to sweate: wherfore they doth ingendre lyce.'

ll. 74-95. Chese. 'there is iiij. sortes of Chese, which is to say, grene Chese, softe chese, harde chese, or spermyse. Grene chese is not called grene by y^e reason of colour, but for y^e newnes of it, for the whay is not half pressed out of it, and in operacion it is colde and moyste. Softe chese not to new nor to olde, is best, for in operacion it is hote and moyste. Harde chese is hote and drye, and euyll to dygest. Spermyse is a Chese the whiche is made with curdes and with the Iuce of herbes.... Yet besydes these .iiij natures of chese, there is a chese called a Irweue [rewene, ed. 1567] chese, the whiche, if it be well ordered, doth passe all other cheses, none excesse taken.' A. Borde, Reg. fol. I.i. See note on l.85.

l. 77. In his chapter Of Prunes and Damysens, Andrew Borde says, Syxe or seuen Damysens eaten before dyner, be good to prouoke a ma{n}nes appetyde; they doth mollyfie the bely, and be abstersyue, the skynne and the stones must be ablated and cast away, and not vsed. Regyment, N. i.b. [[Note renamed and moved from l. 177; see Corrigenda]]

l. 78, 83. The Bill-berry or Windberry, R. Holme, Bk. II., p.52, col. 1; p.79, col. 1; three Wharl Berries or Bill-Berries ... They are termed Whortle Berries or Wind Berries, p.81, col. 2. xxviii. See the prose Burlesques, Reliq. Antiq., v.1, p.82. Why hopes thu nott for sothe that ther stode wonus a coke on Seynt Pale stepull toppe, and drewe up the strapuls of his brech. How preves thu that? Be all the .iiij. doctors of Wynbere hylles, that is to saye, Vertas, Gadatryme, Trumpas, and Dadyltrymsert.

l. 79. Fruits. These officers make provysyons in seasons of the yere accordynge for fruytes to be had of the Kinges gardynes withoute prises; as cherryes, peares, apples, nuttes greete and smalle, for somer season; and lenten, wardens, quinces and other; and also of presentes gevyn to the Kinge; they be pourveyours of blaundrelles, pepyns, and of all other fruytes. H. Ord. p.82.

l. 80. Mr Dawson Turner's argument that the "ad album pulverem" of the Leicester Roll, A.D. 1265, was white sugar pounded (Pref. to Household Expenses, ed. 1841, p.li., proves only that the xiiij lib. Zucari there mentioned, were not bought for making White powder only.

ll. 81-93. Crayme. 'Rawe crayme undecocted, eaten with strawberyes, or hurttes, is a rurall mannes ba{n}ket. Ihaue knowe{n} such bankettes hath put me{n} i{n} ieobardy of theyr lyues.' A. Borde, Regyment, fol. I.ij.

l.82, l. 93. Junket. The auncient manner of grateful suitors, who, hauing prevailed, were woont to present the Judges, or the Reporters, of their causes, with Comfets or other Jonkets. Cotgrave, w. espice.

l. 85. Cheese. Whan stone pottes be broken, what is better to glew them againe or make them fast, nothing like the Symunt made of Cheese; know therfore it will quickly build a stone in a drie body, which is ful of choler adust. And here in Englande be diuers kindes of Cheeses, as Suff. Essex, Banburie .&c.according to their places & feeding of their cattel, time of y^e yere, layre of their Kine, clenlinesse of their Dayres, quantitie of their Butter; for the more Butter, the worse Cheese. Bullein, fol. lxxxv.

l. 89. Butter. A. Borde, Introduction, makes the Flemynge say,

Buttermouth Flemyng, men doth me call. Butter is good meate, it doth relent the gall.

[[Note on l. 52 originally printed here: see Corrigenda.]]

l. 94. Posset is hot Milk poured on Ale or Sack, having Sugar, grated Bisket, Eggs, with other ingredients boiled in it, which goes all to a Curd. R. Holme.

l. 94. Poset ale is made with hote mylke and colde ale; it is a temperate drynke. A. Borde, Reg. G. iij.

l.105. Hot wines & sweet or confectioned with spices, or very strong Ale or Beere, is not good at meales, for thereby the meat is rather corrupted then digested, and they make hot and stinking vapours to ascend vp to the braines. Sir Jn. Harrington. Pres. of Health, 1624, p.23.

l. 109. Reboyle. 'If any wynes be corrupted, reboyled, or unwholsome for mannys body, then by the comtroller it to be shewed at the counting bourde, so that by assent all suche pypes or vesselles defectife be dampned and cast uppon the losses of the seyd chiefe Butler.' H. Ord. p.73.

l. 109. Lete, leek. 'Purveyours of Wyne ... to ride and oversee the places there as the Kinges wynes be lodged, that it be saufely kept from peril of leeking and breaking of vessels, or lacke of hoopinge or other couperage, and all other crafte for the rackinge, coynynge, rebatinge, and other salvations of wynes, &c.' H. Ord. p.74.

SWETE WYNES, p.8, l. 118-20.[*]

[Footnote *: See Maison Rustique or The Country Farme, p.630-1, as to the qualities of Sweet Wines.]

[alpha]. Generally:

Halliwell gives under Piment the following list of wines from MS. Rawlinson. C.86.

Malmasyes, Tires, and Rumneys, With Caperikis, Campletes[**], and Osueys, Vernuge, Cute, and Raspays also, Whippet and Pyngmedo, that that ben lawyers therto; And I will have also wyne de Ryne, With new maid Clarye, that is good and fyne, Muscadell, Terantyne, and Bastard, With Ypocras and Pyment comyng afterwarde. MS. Rawl. C. 86.

[Footnote **: See Campolet in "The Boke of Keruyng."]

And under Malvesyne this:

Ye shall have Spayneche wyne and Gascoyne, Rose coloure, whyt, claret, rampyon, Tyre, capryck, and malvesyne, Sak, raspyce, alycaunt, rumney, Greke, ipocrase, new made clary, Suche as ye never had. Interlude of the Four Elements (no date).

Of the wine drunk in England in Elizabeth's time, Harrison (Holinshed's Chron. v.1, p.167, col. 2, ed. 1586) says, "As all estates doo exceed herin, Imeane for strangenesse and number of costlie dishes, so these forget not to vse the like excesse in wine, in so much as there is no kind to be had (neither anie where more store of all sorts than in England, although we have none growing with us, but yearlie to the proportion of 20,000 or 30,000 tun and vpwards, notwithstanding the dailie restreincts of the same brought over vnto vs) wherof at great meetings there is not some store to be had. Neither do I meane this of small wines onlie, as Claret, White, Red, French, &c., which amount to about fiftie-six sorts, according to the number of regions from whence they come: but also of the thirtie kinds of Italian, Grecian, Spanish, Canarian, &c., whereof Vernage, Cate, pument, Raspis, Muscadell, Romnie, Bastard, Tire, Oseie, Caprike, Clareie, and Malmesie, are not least of all accompted of, bicause of their strength and valure. For as I haue said in meat, so the stronger the wine is, the more it is desired, by means wherof in old time, the best was called Theologicum, because it was had from the cleargie and religious men, vnto whose houses manie of the laitie would often send for bottels filled with the same, being sure that they would neither drinke nor be serued of the worst, or such as was anie waies mingled or brued by the vintener: naie the merchant would haue thought that his soul{e} should haue gone streight-waie to the diuell, if he should haue serued them with other than the best."

On Wine, see also Royal Rolls, B.M. 14 B. xix.

[beta]. Specially: The following extracts are from Henderson's History of Ancient and Modern Wines, 1824, except where otherwise stated:—

1. Vernage was a red wine, of a bright colour, and a sweetish and somewhat rough flavour, which was grown in Tuscany and other parts of Italy, and derived its name from the thick-skinned grape, vernaccia (corresponding with the vinaciola of the ancients), that was used in the preparation of it (See Bacci. Nat. Vinor. Hist., p.20, 62). It is highly praised by Redi.[*]

[Footnote *: Vernage was made in the Genoese territory. The best was grown at San Gemignano, and in Bacci's time was in great request at Rome. The wine known as Vernaccia in Tuscany was always of a white or golden colour. Henderson, p.396.]

2. Vernagelle is not mentioned by Henderson. The name shows it to have been a variety of Vernage.

3. l. 118. Cute. "As for the cuit named in Latin Sapa, it commeth neere to the nature of wine, and in truth nothing els it is, but Must or new wine boiled til one third part and no more do remain; & this cuit, if it be made of white Must is counted the better." Holland's Plinies Nat. Hist., p.157. "(of the dried grape or raisin which they call Astaphis).... The sweet cuit which is made thereof hath a speciall power and virtue against the Hmorrhois alone, of all other serpents," p.148. "Of new pressed wine is made the wine called Cute, in Latin, Sapa; and it is by boiling the new pressed wine so long, as till that there remaine but one of three parts. Of new pressed wine is also made another Cute, called of the Latines Defrutum, and this is by boiling of the new wine onely so long, as till the halfe part be consumed, and the rest become of the thicknesse of honey." Maison Rustique, p.622. 'Cute. A.S. Cren, L. carenum, wine boiled down one-third, and sweetened.' Cockayne, Gloss. to Leechdoms.

4. Pyment. In order to cover the harshness and acidity common to the greater part of the wines of this period, and to give them an agreeable flavour, it was not unusual to mix honey and spices with them. Thus compounded they passed under the generic name of piments,[**] probably because they were originally prepared by the pigmentarii or apothecaries; and they were used much in the same manner as the liqueurs of modern times. Hend. p.283.

[Footnote **: See the recipe for making Piment in Halliwell's Dictionary, s.v.]

The varieties of Piment most frequently mentioned are the

Hippocras & Clarry. The former was made with either white or red wine, in which different aromatic ingredients were infused; and took its name from the particular sort of bag, termed Hippocrates's Sleeve, through which it was strained.... Clarry, on the other hand, which (with wine of Osey) we have seen noticed in the Act 5 Richard II. (St.1, c.4, vin doulce, ou clarre), was a claret or mixed wine, mingled with honey, and seasoned in much the same way, as may be inferred from an order of the 36th of Henry III. respecting the delivery of two casks of white wine and one of red, to make Clarry and other liquors for the king's table at York (duo dolia albi vini et garhiofilacum et unum dolium rubri vini ad claretum faciend{um}). Henderson, p.284. Hippocras, vinum Aromaticum. Withals. "Artificiall stuffe, as ypocras & wormewood wine." Harrison, Descr. Brit., p.167, col. 2, ed. 1586.

Raspice. "Vin Rap," says Henderson, p.286, note y, "arough sweetish red wine, so called from its being made with unbruised grapes, which, having been freed from the stalks, are afterwards fermented along with them and a portion of other wine."[*] Ducange has Raspice. RASPATICIUM, Ex racemis vinum, cujus prparationem tradit J. Wecker. Antidot. special. lib. 2, 6, page 518 et 519. Paratur autem illud ex raspatiis et vinaceis, una cum uvis musto immissis. Raspatia itaque sunt, qu Varroni et Columell scopi, scopiones, si bene legitur; unde nostrum Raste. Ducange, ed. 1845. Raspecia ...Sed ex relato longiori contextu palam est, Raspeciam nihil aliud esse quam vinum mixtis acinis aliisve modis renovatum, nostris vulgo Rp; hujuscemodi enim vinum alterationi minus obnoxium est, ut hic dicitur de Raspecia. Vide mox Raspetum, Vinum recentatum, Gallis Rasp. Charta Henrici Ducis Brabanti pro Communia Bruxellensi ann. 1229: Qui vinum supra uvas habuerit, quod Raspetum vocatur, in tavernis ipsum vendere non potest. Vide Recentatum. Ducange, ed. 1845.

[Footnote *: Besides this meaning of rap (same as rasp), Cotgrave gives first "A verie small wine comming of water cast uppon the mother of grapes which have been pressed!"]

The highly-praised Raspatum of Baccius, p.30-2, of which, after quoting what Pliny says of secondary wines, he declares, "id primm animaduerti volumus nostra posteritate, quod Lora Latinorum, qua{m} deuterium cum Grcis, et secundarium Vinum dixit Plinius, deuteria, seu potimon Dioscorides, quodque trugon vocauit Galenus, cum Aquatis quibus hodie vtimur in tota Italia, & cum nouo genere, quod delectabili in gustu asperitate, Rasputum vocat; similem omnes h Voces habent significantiam factitii .s. ex aqua Vini. p.30. Quod uini genus in Italia, ubi alterius uini copia non sit, parari simpliciter consuevit colore splendido rubentis purpur, sapore austero, ac dulcacido primis mensibus mox tamen exolescente, p.31-2, &c." Raspice was also a name for Raspberries. Item, geuene to my lady Kingstone s{er}u{au}nte bringing Strawberes and Respeces to my lad{ys} grace xij d. Privy Purse Expenses of the Princess Mary, p.31; and in his Glossary to this book Sir F. Madden says, 'In a closet for Ladies 12mo. London, 1654, is a receipt "To preserve Raspices," and they are elsewhere called "Raspisberries." See "Delights for Ladies," 12mo. 1654.'

6. Muscadelle of Grew: Bastard: Greke: Malvesyn. "The wines which Greece, Languedoc, and Sapine doe send vs, or rather, which the delicacie and voluptuousnesse of our French throats cause to be fetched from beyond the Sea, such as are Sacks, Muscadels of Frontignan, Malmesies, Bastards (which seeme to me to be so called, because they are oftentimes adulterated and falsified with honey, as we see wine Hydromell to be prepared) and Corsick wines, so much vsed of the Romanes, are very pernicious unto vs, if we vse them as our common drinke. Notwithstanding, we proue them very singular good in cold diseases ... but chiefly and principally Malmesey." Stevens and Liebault's Maison Rustique, or The Countrey Farme, by R. Surflet, reviewed by Gerv. Markham, 1616. Muscadell, vinum apianum. Withals. Mulsum, wine and honie sodden together, swiete wine, basterde or Muscadell. Withals. William Vaughan says, "Of Muscadell, Malmesie, and browne Bastard. These kindes of wines are onely for maried folkes, because they strengthen the back." Naturall and Artificial Directions for Health, 1602, p.9.

Andrewe Borde, of Physicke, Doctor, in his Regyment or Dyetary of helth made in Mou{n}tpylior, says, "Also these hote wynes, as Malmesey, wyne corse, wyne greke, Romanyke, Romney, Secke, Alygaune, Basterde, Tyre, Osaye, Muscadell, Caprycke, Tynt, Roberdany, with other hote wynes, be not good to drynke with meate, but after mete and with Oysters, with Saledes, with fruyte, adraughte or two may be suffered ... Olde men may drynke, as I sayde, hygh wynes at theyr pleasure. Furthermore all swete wynes, and grose wynes, doth make a man fatte."

7. Rompney. Henderson, p. 288, says, "Another of the above-mentioned wines (in the Squire of Low Degree) designated by the name of the grape, was the Romenay, otherwise Romenay, Rumney, Romaine, or Romagnia. That it could not be the produce of the Ecclesiastical State, as the two last corruptions of the word would seem to imply, may be safely averred; for at no period, since the decline of the empire, has the Roman soil furnished any wines for exportation; and even Bacci, with all his partiality, is obliged to found his eulogy of them on their ancient fame, and to confess that, in his time, they had fallen into disrepute." He argues also against the notion that this wine came from Romana in Aragon, and concludes that it was probably a Greek wine, as Bacci (Nat. Vin. Hist. p.333) tells us that the wine from the Ioinan Islands and adjoining continent was called in Italian Romania,—from the Saracen Rum-ili. Now this is all very well, but how about the name of Rompney of Modene or Modena, just outside the Western boundary of the Romagna,—not Meudon, in France, "amongst all the wines which we use at Paris, as concerning the red, the best are those of Coussy, Seure, Vaunes, and Meudon." Maison Rustique, p.642.—Who will hold to John Russell, and still consider Romney an Italian wine? Rumney, vinum resinatum. Withals.

8. Bastard. Henderson argues against the above-quoted (No.6) supposition of Charles Etienne's (which is supported by Cotgrave's Vin miell, honied wine, bastard, Metheglin, sweet wine), and adopts Venner's account (Via Recta ad Vitam Longam), that "Bastard is in virtue somewhat like to muskadell, and may also in stead thereof be used; it is in goodness so much inferiour to muskadell, as the same is to malmsey." It took its name, Henderson thinks, from the grape of which it was made, probably a bastard species of muscadine. "One of the varieties of vines now cultivated in the Alto Douro, and also in Madeira, is called bastardo, and the must which it yields is of a sweetish quality." Of the Bastard wine there were two sorts,—white and brown (brown and white bastard, Measure for Measure, Act iii. sc.2), both of them, according to Markham's report, "fat and strong; the tawny or brown kind being the sweetest." In The Libelle of Englysch Polycye, A.D. 1436 (Wright's Political Songs, v.2, p.160), 'wyne bastarde' is put among the commodyetees of Spayne.

9. Tire, if not of Syrian growth, was probably a Calabrian or Sicilian wine, manufactured from the species of grape called tirio. Tyre, vinum Tyrense, ex Tyro insula. Withals.

10. Ozey. Though this is placed among the "commodities of Portugal" in some verses inserted in the first volume of Hackluyt's Voyages, p.188—Her land hath wine, osey, waxe, and grain,—yet, says Henderson, "apassage in Valois' Description of France, p.12, seems to prove, beyond dispute, that oseye was an Alsatian wine; Auxois or Osay being, in old times, the name constantly used for Alsace. If this conjecture is well-founded, we may presume that oseye was a luscious-sweet, or straw-wine, similar to that which is still made in that province. That it was a rich, high-flavoured liquor is sufficiently shown by a receipt for imitating it, which may be seen in Markham (English Housewife, 1683, p, 115), and we learn from Bacci p.350) that the wines which Alsace then furnished in great profusion to England as well as different parts of the continent, were of that description. In the 'Bataille des Vins' we find the 'Vin d'Aussai' associated with the growths of the Moselle." Osey is one 'Of the commoditees of Portingalle,' Libelle, p.163.

11. Torrentyne of Ebrew. Is this from Tarentum, Tarragon, or Toledo? Whence in Ebrew land did our forefathers import wine? Mr G. Grove says, "Ishould at first say that Torrentyne referred to the wine from some wady (Vulgate, torrens) in which peculiarly rich grapes grew, like the wady of Eschcol or of Sorek; but I don't remember any special valley being thus distinguished as 'The Torrent' above all others, and the vineyards are usually on hill-sides, not in vallies."

12. Greke Malevesy. "The best dessert wines were made from the Malvasia grape; and Candia, where it was chiefly cultivated, for a long time retained the monopoly," says Henderson. He quotes Martin Leake to explain the name. Monemvasia is a small fortified town in the bay of Epidaurus Limera. "It was anciently a promontory called Minoa, but is now an island connected with the coast of Laconia by a bridge. The name of Monemvasia, derived from the circumstances of its position (mon embasia, single entrance), was corrupted by the Italians to Malvasia; and the place being celebrated for the fine wines produced in the neighbourhood, Malvasia changed to Malvoisie in French, and Malmsey in English came to be applied to many of the rich wines of the Archipelago, Greece, and other countries." (Researches in Greece, p.197.) Maulmsey, vinum creticum, vel creteum. Withals.

13. Caprik may have been a wine from the island of Capri, or Cyprus.

14. Clarey. See above under Pyment, and the elaborate recipe for making it, in Household Ordinances, p.473, under the heading "Medicina optima et experta pro Stomacho et pro Capite in Antiquo hominem." Claret Wine, vinum sanguineum subrubrum, vel rubellum. Withals. "The seconde wine is pure Claret, of a cleare Iacent, or Yelow choler; this wine doth greatly norish and warme the body, and it is an holsome wine with meate." Bullein, fol.xj.

l. 122. Spice; l. 171. Spicery. Of "The commoditees and nyoetees of Venicyans and Florentynes," the author of the Libelle says, p.171,

The grete galees of Venees and Florence Be wel ladene wyth thynges of complacence, Alle spicerye and of grocers ware, Wyth swete wynes, alle maners of cheffare, Apes, and japes, and marmusettes taylede, Nifles, trifles, that litelle have availede, And thynges wyth which they fetely blere oure eye, Wyth thynges not enduryng that we bye.

l. 123. Turnsole. Newton's Herbal, plate 49, gives Yellow Turnsole G(erarde), the Colouring Turnsole P(arkinson).

l. 123. Tornesole. Achillea tormentosa, A.S. Solwherf. 'This wort hath with it some wonderful divine qualities, that is, that its blossoms turn themselves according to the course of the sun, so that the blossoms when the sun is setting close themselves, and again when he upgoeth, they open and spread themselves.' Leechdoms, ed. Cockayne, v.1, p.155.

l. 123, 141. Granes are probably what are now called "Granes of Paradise," small pungent seeds brought from the East Indies, much resembling Cardamum seeds in appearance, but in properties approaching nearer to Pepper. See Lewis's Materia Medica, p.298; in North. H. Book.

l. 131-2. I cannot identify these three sorts of Ginger, though Gerarde says: "Ginger groweth in Spaine, Barbary, in the Canary Islands, and the Azores," p.6. Only two sorts of Ginger are mentioned in Parkinson's Herbal, p.1613. 'Ginger grows in China, and is cultivated there.' Strother's Harman, 1727, v.1, p.101.

l. 141. Peper. "Pepir blake" is one of the commoditees of the Januays (or Genoese). Libelle, p.172.

[[Note on l. 77 originally printed here: see Corrigenda.]]

l. 178. Ale. See the praise of the unparalleled liquor called Ale, Metheglin, &c., in Iohn Taylor's Drink and Welcome, 1637. In his Regiment, A. Borde says, "Ale is made of malte and water; and they the whiche do put any other thynge to ale than is rehersed, except yest, barme, or goddes good,[*] [**] doth sophysticall there ale. Ale for an Englysshe man is a naturall drynke. Ale muste haue these properties, it must be fresshe and cleare, it muste not be ropy, nor smoky, nor it muste haue no werte nor tayle. Ale shulde not be dronke under .v.dayes olde. Newe Ale is vnholsome for all men. And sowre ale, and dead ale, and ale the whiche doth stande a tylte, is good for no man. Barly malte maketh better Ale than Oten malte or any other corne doth: it doth ingendre grose humours: but it maketh a man stronge.

[Footnote *: Halliwell says it means yeast. It cannot do so here.]

[Footnote **: This, and barme, and bargood (=beer-good) are only equivalents for 'yeast.' Goddes-good was so called 'because it cometh of the grete grace of God': see the following extract, sent me by Mr Gillett, from the Book of the Corporate Assembly of Norwich, 8 Edw.IV.:

"The Maior of this Cite com{m}aundeth on the Kynges bihalve, y^t alle man{er} of Brewers y^t shall brewe to sale w^tynne this Cite, kepe y^e assise accordyn to y^e Statute, & upon peyne ordeyned. And wheras berme, otherwise clepid goddis good, w^toute tyme of mynde hath frely be goven or delyv{er}ed for brede, whete, malte, egges, or other honest rewarde, to y^e valewe only of a ferthyng at y^e uttermost, & noon warned, bicause it cometh of y^e grete grace of God, Certeyn p{er}sons of this Cite, callyng themselves com{m}on Brewers, for their singler lucre & avayll have nowe newely bigonne to take money for their seid goddis good, for y^e leest parte thereof, be it never so litle and insufficient to s{er}ve the payer therefore, an halfpeny or a peny, & ferthermore exaltyng y^e p{ri}ce of y^e seid Goddis good at their p{ro}p{e}r will, ageyns the olde & laudable custome of alle Englande, & sp{eci}ally of this Cite, to grete hurte & slaunder of y^e same Cite. Wherefore it is ordeyned & provided, That no man{er} of brewer of this Cite shall from this time foorth take of eny p{er}son for lyvering, gevyng, or grauntyng of y^e s^d goddis good, in money nor other rewarde, above y^e valewe of a ferthyng. He shall, for no malice feyned ne sought, colour, warne, ne restregne y^e s^d goddis good to eny p{er}sone y^t will honestly & lefully aske it, & paye therefore y^e valewe of a ferthyng, &c."]

Beere is made of malte, of hoppes, and water. It is a naturall drynke for a doche man. And nowe of late dayes [1557 ?] it is moche vsed in England to the detryment of many Englysshe men; specyally it kylleth them the whiche be troubled with the Colycke and the stone, and the strayne coylyon; for the drynke is a cold drynke. Yet it doth make a man fatte, and doth inflate the belly, as it doth appere by the doche mennes faces and belyes." A. Borde, Regyment, fol. G.ii.

l. 194. Neck-towel. The neck-towelles of the pantrey, ewerye, confectionarye, comters, hangers, liggers, and all that is the Kinges stuffe. H. Ord. p.85.

l. 201. Salts. Other two groomes in this office [of Panetry] to help serve the hall, or other lordes, in absence of the yoman, and to cutte trenchours, to make saltes, &c. H. Ord., p.71.

l. 213. Raynes. Towelles of raygnes, towelles of worke, and of playne clothe. H. Ord., pp. 72,84.

l. 237. The Surnape. In the Articles ordained by King Henry VII. for the Regulation of his Household, 31 Dec., 1494, are the following directions, p.119.

As for the Sewer and Usher, and laying of the Surnape.

The sewer shall lay the surnape on the board-end whereas the bread and salte standeth, and lay forth the end of the same surnape and towell; then the usher should fasten his rodd in the foresaid surnape and towell, and soe drawing it downe the board, doeing his reverence afore the Kinge till it passe the board-end a good way, and there the sewer kneeling at the end of the board, and the usher at the other, stretching the said surnape and towell, and soe the usher to laie upp the end of the towell well on the boarde, and rise goeing before the Kinge, doeing his reverence to the King on the same side the surnape bee gone uppon, and on that side make an estate with his rodd; and then goeing before the Kinge doeing his reverence, and soe make another estate on the other side of the King, and soe goeing to the boards end againe, kneele downe to amend the towell, that there bee noe wrinkles save the estates; and then the usher doeing his due reverence to the King; goeing right before the Kinge with his rodd, the side of the same towell there as the bason shall stand; and doeing his reverence to the Kinge, to goe to the boards end againe; and when the King hath washed, to bee ready with his rodd to putt upp the surnape and meete the sewer against the Kinge, and then the sewer to take it upp. (The French name was Serre-nape.)

l. 253. State. Divers Lords and Astates, p.155; divers astates and gentils, p.160. Wardrobe Accounts of King Edward IV.

l. 262. The Pauntry Towells, Purpaynes, Coverpaynes, Chipping-knyffs. Percy or Northumberland Hd. Book, p.387.

l. 277. Symple Condicions. Compare these modern directions to a serving man: "While waiting at dinner, never be picking your nose, or scratching your head, or any other part of your body; neither blow your nose in the room; if you have a cold, and cannot help doing it, do it on the outside of the door; but do not sound your nose like a trumpet, that all the house may hear when you blow it; still it is better to blow your nose when it requires, than to be picking it and snuffing up the mucus, which is a filthy trick. Do not yawn or gape, or even sneeze, if you can avoid it; and as to hawking and spitting, the name of such a thing is enough to forbid it, without a command. When you are standing behind a person, to be ready to change the plates, &c., do not put your hands on the back of the chair, as it is very improper; though I have seen some not only do so, but even beat a kind of tune upon it with their fingers. Instead of this, stand upright with your hands hanging down or before you, but not folded. Let your demeanour be such as becomes the situation which you are in. Be well dressed, and have light shoes that make no noise, your face and hands well washed, your finger-nails cut short and kept quite clean underneath; have a nail-brush for that purpose, as it is a disgusting thing to see black dirt under the nails. Let the lapels of your coat be buttoned, as they will only be flying in your way." 1825. T. Cosnett. Footman's Directory, p.97-8. Lord A. Percy's Waiters were changed every quarter. See the lists of them in the Percy Household Book, p.53-4.

l. 280. Lice. See Thomas Phaire's Regiment of Life, The boke of Chyldren, H.h. 5; and A.Borde's Introduction, of the Irishe man,

Pediculus other whyle do byte me by the backe, Wherfore dyvers times I make theyr bones cracke.

And of the people of Lytle Briten,

Although I iag my hosen & my garment round abowt, Yet it is a vantage to pick pendiculus owt.

[Transcriber's Note: Line note "67/991", originally printed here, has been renamed "l. 991" and moved to the appropriate location.]

l.300. Jet.

Rogue why Winkest thou, Jenny why Jettest thou.

are among R. Holme's Names of Slates, Bk. III. ch. v.p.265, col.1.

l. 328. Forks were not introduced into England till Coryat's time. See his Crudities p.90-1, 4to. London, 1611, on the strange use of the Fork in Italy. "Iobserv'd a custom in all those Italian Cities and Townes through the which I passed, that is not used in any other country that I saw in my travels, neither do I thinke that any other nation of Christendome doth use it, but only Italy. The Italian and also most Strangers that are comorant in Italy, doe always at their meals use a Little Forke when they cut their meat." Percy's notes, p.417-18, North. H. Book.

l. 348-9. Fumositees. But to wash the feete in a decoction of Baye leaues, Rosemary, & Fenel, Igreatly disalow not: for it turneth away from the head vapours & fumes dimming and ouercasting the mynde. Now the better to represse fumes and propulse vapours fro{m} the Brain, it shalbe excelle{n}t good after Supper to chaw w{i}t{h} the teeth (the mouth being shut) afew graynes of Coriander first stieped in veneiger wherin Maiora{m} hath bin decocted, & the{n} thinly crusted or couered ouer w{i}t{h} Sugar. It is scarrce credible what a special co{m}moditye this bri{n}geth to y^e memory. No lesse vertuous & soueraign is the co{n}fection of Conserue of Quinces. Quinces called Diacidonion, if a prety quantity thereof be likewise taken after meate. For it disperseth fumes, & suffreth not vapours to strike vpwarde, T. Newton, Lemnie's Touchstone, ed. 1581, fol. 126. See note on l.105 here.

l.358. Forced or Farced, a Forced Leg of Mutton, is to stuff or fill it (or any Fowl) with a minced Meat of Beef, Veal, &c., with Herbs and Spices. Farcing is stuffing of any kind of Meats with Herbs or the like; some write it Forsing and Farsing. To Farce is to stuff anything. R. Holme.

l. 378. Brawn. In his chapter on Pygge, Brawne, Bacon, Andrew Borde says of bacon as follows: "Bacon is good for Carters, and plowe men, the which be euer labouryng in the earth or dunge; but & yf they haue the stone, and vse to eate it, they shall synge 'wo be to the pye!' Wherefore I do say that coloppes and egges is as holsome for them as a talowe candell is good for a horse mouth, or a peece of powdred Beefe is good for a blere eyed mare. Yet sensuall appetyde must haue a swynge at all these thynges, notwithstandynge." Regyment, fol. K. iii.b.

l.382 & l. 515. Venison. I extract part of Andrewe Borde's chapter on this in his Regyment, fol. K. 4,b.