July 9.

The surveying operations necessary to perfect the chart of this neighbourhood, afforded ample employment during the day. The weather being dull, with passing rain, and squalls, the view I had anticipated enjoying from the summit of the island was quite destroyed. Like Cape Upstart and Lizard Island it is a granite mass. Dead coral was found on the western side, ten feet above high-water mark, a fact which in some measure supports what I have stated in connection with the raised beach on Cape Upstart. A low sandy tongue of land forms the South-West extreme, leaving a narrow passage between it and the main. This flat is covered with brushwood, gumtrees, and a few palms. The observations were made on this point, and the results were as follow: latitude 12 degrees 37 minutes 30 seconds South, longitude 11 degrees 16 3/4 minutes East of Port Essington.

July 10.

The morning broke with the same dull, gloomy weather, the wind fresh at South-East and continued thus during the day, slightly diversified by a few passing rain squalls. Soon after daylight we were again on our passage, the cloudy weather enabling us to make out the Eastern reefs, which at high-water are covered, and consequently difficult to be seen in that direction in the morning. They front Quoin and Forbes Islands, remarkable rocky lumps, more so, however, from the extreme lowness of those in their vicinity, than from their own magnitude. The latter was found to be 340 feet high. A North-West by North course from Restoration brought us to Piper Islands. The soundings were from 11 to 13 fathoms, with a greater proportion of sand in the quality of the bottom than had been before noticed.

SIR EVERARD HOME'S ISLANDS.

Passing between them and reefs H and I also between Young Island (an elevated reef, with one small mangrove growing on the highest part) and reef M, we hauled up North-East by North round the north end of the latter, to weather Sir Everard Home's Islands, a low group connected by shoal water and extending about four miles from Cape Grenville. We passed midway between them and Haggerston's Islands, a square lump 240 feet high.

COCKBURN ISLANDS.

Sir Charles Hardy's and the Cockburn Isles are also conspicuous objects in this neighbourhood, particularly the former, which is visible from outside the Barrier, and thus forms a leading mark for ships making their way through these reefs.

In the evening the anchor was dropped about a mile from the north side of the Bird Isles in ten fathoms, a sudden degree from fifteen, just before standing in West-South-West to the anchorage. Five miles South-East by East from these isles, we passed close to the position of a patch of shoal water, according to the chart: its presence, however, was not detected, the depth at the time being nineteen fathoms. The only additions made to the chart during the day were a few soundings, besides increasing the number and altering the position of Cockburn Islands, with the reefs fronting them. The number of these isles is thus increased from two to four; they are square rocky lumps, the largest being three hundred feet high. The current during the day set steadily North-West almost a mile an hour. On anchoring we found it setting West-North-West at the same rate. At midnight it changed its direction to East-South-East from a quarter to half a knot an hour. The time of high-water being about 6 A.M., it is evident the flood-stream came here from South or South-East. The islands passed during the day, were of a small lagoon character and the reefs oval-shaped, with an elevated patch of dead coral at their north extreme, which had the appearance, at a distance, of sand. The mainland had much changed in outline, having subsided into a wearisome series of undulating hills, varying from five to seven hundred feet in height. The coast was, therefore, utterly void of any feature of interest, after passing Fair Cape.

July 11.

At daylight we were again underway and steered North by East for the purpose of ascertaining if there were any reefs to the eastward of u and v. When Number 1 of a group next south of Cairncross bore North 43 degrees West four and a half miles the course was changed to West-North-West to pass between the reef fronting its south side and reef w where we had a depth of 20 fathoms; both of these we found it necessary to enlarge on the chart. At the time of altering the course, the ship was West-North-West two miles from the position of an island according to chart; but as we did not see it, and as Captain King has not laid it down upon his own authority, we may safely conclude that it either does not exist, or that it is much out of position.

BOYDAN ISLAND.

Rounding the reef off its south extremity, we anchored in 18 fathoms, one mile South 65 degrees West from the centre of the island before mentioned—Number 1 of the group South of Cairncross—shortly before noon. This Captain King supposes to be Boydan, that on which the crew of the Charles Eaton were massacred. It was therefore determined that the remainder of the day should be spent in examining the place, with a view to ascertain the correctness of this supposition. The melancholy interest of the search was to me greatly enhanced, from having seen at Sydney young D'Oyly, one of the survivors of this ill-fated party, and son of an Indian officer returning from furlough. Being an infant, his helplessness excited the sympathies of an Indian woman, who snatched him from the arms of his murdered mother, and sheltered him within her own. Nor did her kindness stop here, the never-failing maternal solicitude of the sex, inducing her to protect and console the child.

EXAMINATION OF BOYDAN ISLAND.

We had just read Captain P.P. King's interesting pamphlet in relation to this sad event, detailing with minuteness all the circumstances of the tragedy, and with our minds so recently imbued with the horrors it inspired, naturally advanced to the search with zeal and activity; anxious, if possible, to place the locality of its occurrence beyond a doubt. The isle was easily traversed, being of small extent, not more, indeed, than a mile in circumference. We crossed it accordingly in every direction, and discovered the remains of native fires, near which great quantities of turtle bones, and some coconut shells were scattered about. It was remarkable that wherever boughs were cut, an axe or some other sharp instrument had been used. A topmast with the lower cap attached to it, was found on the South-East side of the island, which we afterwards discovered to be a portion of the brig William, wrecked on the outer barrier three months before.

Captain King drew his conclusions relative to this island from the circumstance of young Ireland's stating, that on their way to it in the canoe, after leaving the raft, they first passed three islands on the right northward, and one on the left southward.

CORRECT CHART.

From the bearings, however, and from our run on the following morning we found it necessary to correct the chart, thus decreasing the number of islands. We found that marked 5, to have no existence, and 6, far too much to the westward, while 8 and 10 were placed to the eastward of their true position. These errors occasionally occur where they are numerous, much alike, and are passed quickly. The change in the number and position of the islands is in some measure hostile to the views of Captain King, and I am further inclined, from these corrections, to draw the conclusion that Number 4 of the group is Boydan island, a name given by the Murray islanders, to the spot rendered notorious by the cold-blooded massacre we have already alluded to, and which will be described more in detail in Captain Stanley's highly interesting narrative, further on in the present work.

On examining the reef fronting the island, which is a more perfect specimen of a lagoon than any we had yet seen, we found that the outer edge consisted of a wall higher than any of the parts within, rising at low-water, to an elevation of ten feet, while inside, pools or holes existed, three or four feet deep, containing live coral, sponges, sea-eggs, and trepang. Scattered about on different parts of the reef were many Chama gigas, not, however, so large as those I had formerly seen at Keeling or Cocos Islands, in the Indian Ocean, weighing 220 pounds.

Singular to say, at 3 P.M., I observed the latitude by a meridian altitude of Venus, although a bright sunny day. The result agreed with Captain King's chart, placing the centre of the island in latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes South.

TIDAL OBSERVATIONS.

We experienced more tide here than at any anchorage we had yet occupied during the passage. From 1 to 5 P.M., it set half an knot an hour to the southward, then changed to North-West by North, increasing its rate to one knot by 10 o'clock, and decreasing it to a quarter of a knot by 2 A.M., when it again set to the South-South-West. The stream thus appears to set nine hours North-West by North and three South-South-West. The short duration of the latter, which is the ebb, is caused by the northerly direction of the prevailing current. This also was the only spot where our fishermen had any success; in a few hours several dozen of a species of small red bream being caught.

Three or four ships passing together would find a secure berth about two miles North-North-East of where the Beagle anchored, where the depth is moderate, with good holding ground. It has great advantage in this particular over Cairncross, where but one vessel could lie snug, and still greater over Turtle Island, more exposed even than the former with a strong tide, and where vessels ride very uneasily. Moreover the supposed Boydan, or Number 1 isle, can be left a full hour before daylight, there being nothing in the way to impede a ship's progress for some miles. Those who are not desirous of passing the reefs off Wednesday and Hammond Islands, late in the day, with the sun in an unfavourable position, can find a convenient stopping place in Blackwood Bay under the largest York isle, or under the Cape of that name.

CAIRNCROSS ISLAND.

July 12.

We left at an early hour, steering North-North-West 1/2 West for Cairncross Island, which we passed at a distance of half a mile from the eastern side in 16 fathoms. Its height is seventy-five feet to the tops of the trees, which, according to Mr. Bynoe, who subsequently visited it in the month of September, are dwarf gums. The tea-tree of the colonists is also found here, in addition to some small bushes. This island is the resort of a large bright cream-coloured pigeon (Carpophaga leucomela) the ends of the wings being tipped with black, or very dark blue. Mr. Bynoe found the island quite alive with them; flocks of about twenty or thirty flying continually to and from the main. They not only resort but breed there, as he found several old nests. As this bird was not met with in the Beagle on the western coast, we may fairly conclude it only inhabits the eastern and northern; the furthest south it was seen by the officers of H.M.S. Britomart was latitude 20 degrees. In addition to these, Mr. Bynoe saw the holes of some small burrowing animals, which are doubtless rats. On a sandy spit, close to the bushes or scrub, he saw a native encampment of a semicircular form, enclosing an area of about ten yards. The occupants had but recently left it, as a fire was found burning, and the impression of their feet still fresh in the sand. It appears that at this season of the year, being the favourable monsoon for ships passing through the Barrier reefs on their voyage to India, the islands to the southward are much frequented by the natives of Murray and others of the northern isles, waiting, like wreckers of old, the untoward loss of some ill-fated ship, when their canoes appear as if by magic, hastening to the doomed vessel; just as in the Pampas of South America, no sooner has the sportsman brought down a deer than the air is filled with myriads of vultures winging their way towards the carcass, though a few minutes before not a feather was stirring. The long-sightedness of these Indians resembles that of the carrion bird itself,* while their rapacity and recklessness of blood is fully equal to that of the lower animal.

(*Footnote. As some of our readers may imagine that vultures and birds of prey are attracted to the carcasses of animals by smell, I may state that an experiment was tried with a condor in South America; being hoodwinked, he passed unnoticed a large piece of beef, but as soon as the bandage was removed, he rushed eagerly towards and devoured it.)

PUDDING-PAN HILL.

We left our readers at Cairncross Island, and now return to our narrative by describing the neighbouring coast. The most remarkable feature on this part of the mainland, generally speaking a dull monotonous level, is a hill bearing over the extremity of the reef fronting the south side of Cairncross, South 45 degrees West, to which Captain Bligh has given the quaint name of Pudding-Pan Hill. It received this appellation from a resemblance to an inverted pudding dish, commonly used by sailors, and is 354 feet high. The coast about ten miles to the northward projects a mile and a half further eastward than is marked in the chart. This error did not however appear to be so great south of Escape River, where the character of the coast is low and cliffy, separated by small sandy bays; instead of a continued line of cliffs as at present represented.

ESCAPE RIVER.

At noon we were in the parallel of the south point of Escape River, in latitude 10 degrees 58 minutes South, observations and bearings both agreeing. This river receives its name in record of one of those narrow escapes to which surveying vessels are subject, Captain King having been nearly wrecked in the Mermaid. Attempting to enter the river he found it not to be navigable, a reef extending across its mouth, on which his vessel struck very heavily.

CORRECT POSITION OF REEFS.

Avoiding Captain King's track, we passed to the eastward of reef x, being thus afforded a better opportunity of determining its position than he had. This we did by transit bearings with different points, which placed it nearly two miles South by East of the spot assigned it on the charts.*

(*Footnote. On mentioning this afterwards to Captain P.P. King, he told me his survey of that part of the coast had never given him satisfaction; for there the monsoon blows fresh, and his small vessel was hurried past without his being able to land in search of better data for the chart. The reader must not, from these corrections (few, when we consider the extent of the survey) be led to imagine that our object is to pick out errors in the surveys of others; but from being in a larger and better appointed vessel, our opportunities of examination were necessarily greater than those afforded to Captain King, who was always most anxious to detect errors in his own charts. Without dwelling on the fact that the result of our examination afforded us the satisfaction of restoring parts of the chart, before erroneously corrected, to his original construction, we would venture to hope that, while desirous as much as possible to perfect our knowledge of the coast, we were in no manner actuated by that spirit of fault-finding, so pithily described by Liebeg, when he says that it is "startling to reflect that all the time and energy of a multitude of persons of genius, talent, and knowledge is expended in endeavours to demonstrate each others' errors.")

This error we found to extend also to reefs y and z. X is one of the oval-shaped reefs, with the singular white patch of dead coral on its northern extremity which I have before spoken of. Z is similarly marked, and dries at last quarter ebb, while the South-East part of y is never covered, a few mangroves growing on it. When abreast of x, we saw from deck the curious flat-topped hill on the largest York island, Mount Adolphus, and when over the centre of reef z, it bore North 23 1/2 degrees West. We now steered to the westward between reefs, x and y, and afterwards North-North-West for Mount Adolphus. Between the Brothers and Albany Islands the depth was 10 fathoms; these are both black rocky lumps, particularly the latter, the outer being a mere pointed rock. Altogether they assume a sterile and dreary appearance, in excellent keeping with the inhospitable character of the adjoining coast. Several shoals and much shoal water were noticed in Newcastle Bay.

BLACKWOOD BAY.

At 4 P.M., we anchored in Blackwood Bay, in a depth of 10 fathoms. Point Dicky bearing South half a mile, and Mount Adolphus North-East. In the evening a plan was made of this very convenient stopping place for ships, and all the angles taken to the North-West extremity of the group, place them a mile and a half to the eastward of their position in the chart. Observations were also obtained near Point Dicky, which we found to be in latitude 10 degrees 38 3/4 minutes South and longitude 10 degrees 28 minutes East of Port Essington. The North-West extremity of the singular flat-topped hill being 1 minute 05 seconds North, and 45 seconds East of this spot. The first question interesting to ships is the supply of wood and water; the latter we had no time to look for, but of the former there was an abundance, though from the shore being fronted by extensive coral flats, it is difficult to be attained.

The appearance of the island is similar to that of the Albany cluster, it having the same rocky, bleak, and almost wild look; from which I conclude they are of the same formation, which in general terms we may call porphyritic. Parts of the island appeared to be intersected by a growth of mangroves.

There appeared great irregularity in the tides at this anchorage, as if there were a meeting of various streams. At 5 P.M. it was setting South-West about an hour, and continued to run in that direction until 8 hours 30 minutes, gradually decreasing its rate. It then took a North and by East direction with the same velocity, until half an hour after midnight, when it again changed back to South-South-West, a course it pursued during the remainder of our stay. By the rise of the water on the shore it would appear that the flood came from the westward.

TORRES STRAIT.

On reaching York Island we considered ourselves within the Strait, which took its name from the Spanish navigator Torres, who sailed in 1605, second in command under Pedro Fernandes de Quiros, from Callao in Peru, with the object of discovering the Tierra Austral, then supposed to be a continent occupying a considerable portion of the southern hemisphere, lying westward of America. Torres passed through this strait in 1606, but despite the great importance of the discovery, its existence remained unknown until 1762, from the jealousy of the Spanish monarchy, which kept the reports of its navigators a secret from the world. At the time in question, however, Manila fell into our hands, and in the archives of that colony, a duplicate copy of Torres's letter to the king of Spain was found by the hydrographer, Mr. Dalrymple. The passage was now made known, and in tardy justice to the discoverer it received the appellation of Torres Strait; a tribute to the reputation of man, the greatest perhaps which could be bestowed, since no more sure road to immortality can be pointed out, than giving a name to the great and imperishable works of the Creator's hand. It was not however until 1770, that the world received full confirmation of this great acquisition to our geographical knowledge; the immortal Cook then passing through and settling the question of its existence. This being the high road between our growing Eastern and Australian possessions, the reader will at once see the importance which must ever attach to the discovery, and will the more readily comprehend our enlarging in some degree upon the circumstance.

July 13.

There had been noticed last evening a slight rippling outside the bay, and on leaving this morning we found it to be a ridge about two cables width, the least water on it being three fathoms. From the shoalest part, Mount Adolphus bore North 56 degrees East, and Point Dicky South 26 degrees East. It appeared by the ripples continuing towards the north-west of York Island, that this rocky ledge extended in that direction. Vessels entering Blackwood Bay may always avoid this shoal, by keeping close to Point Dicky, or by steering for Mount Adolphus, when it bears North-East 1/2 North.

Being desirous to know if there were a practicable channel through Endeavour Strait, by which the inconvenience before alluded to, of passing the reef fronting Hammond's Island late in the afternoon, might be avoided, we proceeded in that direction, passing along the north-eastern extreme of the continent, and between the Possession Islands we entered Endeavour Strait. This termination of the shores of Australia, being level and of moderate elevation, presents nothing remarkable, save a peak over Cape York and fronting the Possession Isles.

COOK'S ISLAND.

It has an inhospitable appearance, being apparently similar in formation with York Isles, and subsides rapidly to the South-West forming the south side of Endeavour Strait, where it scarcely reaches an elevation of fifty feet: contrasting forcibly with the high rocky land of the opposite side of the Strait, formed by the largest of the Prince of Wales Islands; upon which former navigators not having bestowed a name, we conferred that of the immortal navigator. Not but that the Strait known by the name of his ship, is quite sufficient to recall the mind of posterity to his perils and dangers in these seas; but that we his humble followers in the great cause of discovery might add our mite to the wreath of glory which must ever encircle the name of Captain Cook.

On the North-East extremity of this island is a remarkable peak, in the shape of a horn, called by him Horn Hill. Captain King having only passed between the eastern of the Possession Isles, little was known of the western shores. A few angles and bearings were accordingly taken, as we passed between them to assist in remedying this deficiency.

ENDEAVOUR STRAIT.

There was no impediment to our passage through the Strait, until we got abreast of Wallis Isles, Cape Cornwall bearing East by North 1/2 North; when the water shoaled to four fathoms and a half. Finding by hauling up on either tack, that we were on a ridge extending from the Cape, we ran to the westward, until we could cross it, which we did in three and a half fathoms, North Wallis Island bearing South-West five miles.

BOOBY ISLAND.

I saw at the time from the masthead, a blue streak of water to the southward, still affording hopes of there being a deep outlet to Endeavour Strait; but as the day was far advanced, with a fresh breeze from East-South-East, it was not deemed prudent to get the ship entangled in shoal water; therefore, after crossing the ridge extending off Cape Cornwall we steered North-West 1/2 West for Booby Island, in regular soundings of six and seven fathoms, and late in the afternoon anchored nearly a mile from its western side, a flagstaff bearing South 65 degrees East. This we found on landing had been erected in 1835 by Captain Hobson,* of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, who at the same time placed in a large box, made for the purpose, a book with printed forms, which every ship passing filled up, with the addition of such remarks as were thought of consequence. Over this box in large letters were painted the words Post Office, a name by which Booby Island must be quite familiar to all who have navigated these seas; ships being here in the habit of leaving letters for transmission by any vessel proceeding in the required directions. I noticed a similar practice prevailing among the whalers at the Galapagos Islands in the Pacific. We are indebted for the book to the public spiritedness of an Indian army officer. The beneficial results of the plan were experienced by ourselves, as here we first heard of the Port Essington expedition, having passed eight months previously; also of the schooner Essington, that left Sydney in advance of the expedition for that place, having succeeded in determining the fact of the non-existence of the other young D'Oyly, one of the passengers of the ill-fated Charles Eaton. This result of the enterprising merchant-man's researches, fully bears out the fact mentioned by Captain King, on the authority of the Darnley islanders, that he shared the fate of his parents, being devoured by their savage captors. All the ships which have recorded their passage in the book, appeared to have entered the Barrier between the latitude of 11 degrees 30 minutes and 12 degrees 10 minutes; generally about 11 degrees 50 minutes reaching Sir Charles Hardy's Island the same day. They all spoke of a strong northerly current outside the reef, in some instances of nearly three knots. The time occupied in making the passage from Sydney by the outer route, varied from fourteen to twenty days, it being certainly shorter than the inner, though attended with much greater risks. One objection made against the latter is the necessity of anchoring every evening, somewhat laborious work to the crews of merchant ships; this might be obviated in some measure by using a light anchor, which could be done with perfect safety in the still waters within the reefs. We found two barques at anchor, which had arrived on the preceding day. In accordance with a practice very generally observed, they were giving themselves a short period of repose and relaxation after the anxieties and danger of the outer passage; which, short as it is, has doubtless sprinkled grey hairs over many a seaman's head.

(*Footnote. Afterwards Governor of New Zealand.)

ITS DESCRIPTION.

Although Booby Island is a mere rock, from the various associations connected with it, being during one half of the year the constant resort of Europeans, it becomes at once a place of interest, and imperatively demands some notice at our hands. It is a quarter of a mile in diameter, flat, and about thirty feet high, the summit being bare porphyry rock. A valley intersects the north-west side of the island, in which a few creepers, some brushwood, and two or three trees of tolerable size, with a peculiar broad green leaf, bearing a great resemblance to that of the wild almond of the West Indies, were seen, giving shelter to some pigeons and quails, in which latter the island abounds, even more than in the bird which gives its name to the locality. Still, however, from the white colour of the top of the island, produced by the boobies, it is clearly one of their temporary haunts; and indeed, subsequently, in the month of September, their season of incubation, Mr. Bynoe saw them there in great abundance. The contrary was the case with the quail, which, by that time, had completely deserted the island. Turtle were once found on this isle, but they are now never taken. A few of the stones mentioned by Captain King are still to be seen on the summit.

REMARKS ON THE CORAL REEFS OF AUSTRALIA.

This being a point at which ships correct or test the going of their chronometers, it was necessary to obtain observations for longitude. The spot chosen for the purpose was the landing-place near the South-West corner of the islet, and which we found to be 9 degrees 45 minutes East of Port Essington.

Our opportunities of examination with regard to the inner edge of the Great Barrier, and its contiguous islands and reefs, terminating at Booby Island; it may not be deemed irrelevant to hazard a few remarks in recapitulation. In the first place there was a very perceptible increase in the elevation of the reefs and of those islands resting on similar constructions, as we advanced to the northward. Cairncross Island, in latitude 11 1/4 degrees South, composed of heaped up consolidated fragments, attains an elevation of 17 feet; but its trees rise to a height of 75 feet, whilst to the southward, in latitude 13 1/2 degrees South the islands were partially flooded by a tide, rising only about six feet. The reefs are all either circular or oval-shaped, with a rim rising round them. The description of that fronting the isle we visited for Boydan will illustrate their general character. Their northern ends are the highest, and are almost invariably marked by a heap of dead coral and shells, which as we have mentioned, in one or two instances, from its white appearance has often been taken for sand.

The remarkable breaks in this singularly great extent of coral reefs, known as the Barrier of Australia, being in direction varying from West to West-North-West generally speaking North-West, leads me to believe that the upheaval by which the base of this huge coral building was formed, partakes of the general north-westerly direction, in which a large portion of the eastern world apparently emerged from the water. A glance at the map of that portion of the globe, will strengthen this hypothesis, placing as it does this singular fact at once before the reader's mind. Starting with the stupendous heights of the Himalaya mountains, and proceeding thence to several groups of the Polynesian islands, New Caledonia, and others, this remarkable similarity in the trend of these portions of the earth is plainly distinguishable. It would appear, therefore, from the general north-westerly tendency of these upheavals, that the cavernous hollows beneath the crust of the earth, within whose bosom originated these remarkable convulsions, have a strong inclination in one direction, a circumstance in connection with the earth's history of great and curious interest. With this general statement of facts, which we note for the benefit of scientific men, and in illustration of the singular changes which are taking place on the surface of the globe, we return to our narrative, from which we have wandered at some considerable length.

As the duration of our cruise on the north-west and most interesting portions of the coast, depended in a great measure on the supply of provisions to be obtained at Port Essington, we were naturally anxious to satisfy ourselves upon the point, and accordingly spent but a few hours at Booby Island, taking our departure at 8 P.M. on the day of our arrival.

PROCEED TO PORT ESSINGTON.

Proceeding towards Port Essington, we experienced a constant current setting between North-West and West, from half to three quarters of a knot an hour, except when crossing the mouth of the Gulf of Carpentaria, when from the indraught its direction was changed to West-South-West. The winds were as Captain King has described them, veering from South-South-East in the morning, to East in the evening, and blowing fresh towards the middle of the day.

Beyond this nothing occurred worthy of remark, until the morning of the 17th, when soon after daylight we found ourselves steering rather within a large patch of discoloured water, extending off Cape Croker, the North-East extreme of the Coburg Peninsula, a low point with a slight hummock on it; on the north side of this peninsula is situated Port Essington, thirty miles to the westward of the Cape.

CAPE CROKER REEF.

The light-coloured water off the latter, we knew indicated the reef discovered by the brig Tigris, belonging to the Indian navy, which in company with the New South Wales colonial schooner, Isabella, was returning from rescuing the survivors of the Charles Eaton, from the natives of Murray Island. When half a mile from the North-East side, in 22 fathoms rocky bottom, Cape Croker, bearing South 29 degrees East six miles; we steered out, keeping at the same distance round this patch of light water in twenty and twenty-one fathoms, seven or eight miles from the Cape, which bore when over what appeared the shoalest part, South 42 degrees East.

This conclusion I afterwards found, on meeting Captain Stanley, to be correct, as that bearing led over the part of the reef he struck on in H.M.S. Britomart. But being on the inner part he was distant only three miles from Cape Croker, whilst the outer edge of the reef I believe to be seven miles from it on the same bearing. In hauling up to the southward, round the North-West extreme of the discoloured water, the soundings were as follows, 17, 12, and 19 fathoms, with rocky bottom. The Cape bore when in the least depth South 58 degrees East nine miles.

We were fortunate in having such good means of determining the longitude of Cape Croker, by observation of a twilight star when in the meridian, and others with the sun soon afterwards. These both agreeing, place the Cape 27 1/4 miles east of Port Essington, instead of 20, as it is laid down in the chart. This discovery is of vital importance to ships proceeding to Port Essington; we were therefore glad of so good an opportunity for rectifying the error.

PORT ESSINGTON.

Expectation was on tip-toe as we were fast approaching Port Essington, feeling naturally anxious to see what progress had been made at the new settlement, and to learn the fate of the expedition. There was, however, nothing striking in the first appearance of the land, a low woody shore; the most remarkable object being a sandy islet, with a tree in its centre, about a mile east of Point Smith, the eastern point of Port Essington: Vashon Head forming the western.

As we drew near, a boat came alongside belonging to H.M.S. Britomart. From Mr. Pascoe we heard that the Alligator had just sailed for Sydney, leaving the former to await her return at Port Essington. The people forming the settlement had been very healthy, bearing out Dr. Wilson's account of Raffles Bay; and had found the natives exceedingly well disposed. For this advantage we are indebted to the excellent judgment displayed by the unfortunate* Captain Barker, late Commandant of Raffles Bay, he having during his stay in that place, treated them with kindness, to which they were fairly entitled from men so far their superiors in knowledge and power, and who were moreover intruders upon their soil. Had this noble conduct of Captain Barker been more universally accepted as an example, the results would, we doubt not, have been equally satisfactory elsewhere.

(*Footnote. This expression may to some of our readers require explanation, and we therefore quote a brief extract from Dr. Wilson's voyage round the world, page 284. "In obedience to orders from the Colonial Government, he was examining the coast in the vicinity of Encounter Bay, principally with the view of ascertaining whether any available communication existed between the river Murray (lately discovered by Captain Sturt) and the Sea. While in the execution of this duty, he was barbarously murdered by the natives, and his body thrown into the sea." In Sturt's two Expeditions volume 2 page 239, a detailed narrative of this tragedy is given.)

WRECK OF THE ORONTES.

We also heard with much regret,* of the wreck of the Orontes, which accompanied the expedition from Sydney. She left the settlement, with the intention of proceeding to some port in the East Indies; and when just clearing the harbour struck on a reef, knocking a hole in her bows. She filled so rapidly that they had barely time to reach the shore under Vashon Head, ere she sank. The reef, which now bears her name, is according to Mr. Tyers' plan, received from Mr. Pascoe, a mile in extent east and west, and half a mile north and south; while the nearest part of it is distant from Vashon Head and Point Smith very nearly five miles. From its extremes the following are the bearings; from the western, Vashon Head South 49 degrees West, Point Smith South 55 degrees East: and from the eastern the same points bear South 60 degrees West and South 48 degrees East.

(*Footnote. The loss of a ship is always looked upon as a most untoward event, on the occasion of a new settlement being formed, and is ever forcibly imprinted upon the memory of all ship-masters. This was felt to a most serious extent at Swan River; and many masters of vessels in speaking of Port Essington, have at once expressed their fear of proceeding thither, deterred by the loss of the Orontes.)

ORONTES REEF.

The least depth on the Orontes reef is about a fathom, but the generally discoloured state of the water, renders it impossible to determine its exact position, and thus greatly increases the injury done by its presence to the mouth of the harbour. The same difficulty prevents the end of the reef fronting Point Smith from being made out. After rounding the latter, we hauled to the wind, South-West by South up Port Essington.

CHAPTER 1.11.

Port Essington. Bearings from shoals in the Harbour. Appearance of the Settlement. Meet Captain Stanley. Church. Point Record. Prospects of the Settlement. Buffaloes escape. Fence across neck of Peninsula. Lieutenant P.B. Stewart explores the Country. Natives. Uses of Sand. Tumuli-building Birds. Beautiful Opossum. Wild Bees. Escape from an Alligator. Result of Astronomical Observations. Geological Formation. Raffles Bay. Leave Port Essington. Popham Bay. Detect error in position of Port Essington. Melville Island. Discover a Reef in Clarence Strait. Cape Hotham. Native Huts and Clothing. Geological Formation. Discover the Adelaide River. Interview with Natives. Attempt to come on board. Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys nearly speared. Exploration of the Adelaide. Its capabilities. Wood-ducks. Vampires. Another party ascends the Adelaide. Meet Natives. Canoes. Alligator. Visit Melville Island. Green Ants. Thoughts of taking ship up Adelaide abandoned. Tides in Dundas Strait. Return to Port Essington. Theatricals. H.M.S. Pelorus arrives with Provisions. Further remarks on the Colony.

PORT ESSINGTON.

The expanse of water presented to our view in standing up Port Essington, quite delighted us. It is in truth a magnificent harbour, and well worthy of having on its shores the capital of Northern Australia, destined, doubtless, from its proximity to India, and our other fast-increasing eastern possessions, to become not only a great commercial resort, but a valuable naval post in time of war. Many circumstances combine to render it a desirable station. Its great size, having an extent sufficient to hold the largest fleet, is in itself of vast importance, while, as a shelter for distressed vessels, or the surviving crews of wrecks, it cannot be too highly rated: the more so that excellent wood for repairing ships grows in the neighbourhood, especially teak and oak, specimens of which with others, Captain Laws forwarded, in 1828, to one of the dockyards in England.

As we advanced the shores of the harbour contracted, and at the distance of thirteen miles from the entrance are only one mile apart; scarcely half, however, of this space is navigable, from a bank extending off the west side, which is a rocky head called Spear Point, from the circumstance of Captain King having been there nearly speared by the natives. The bearings for clearing the extremes of this reef are as follows. For the south-eastern, Adam Head South 20 degrees West, for the eastern, Middle Head South 18 degrees West, and for the north-eastern, Oyster Head North 47 degrees West. This great decrease in the breadth of the passage, necessarily gives the tide at this spot great rapidity, by which a channel, thirteen fathoms deep, has been formed close to the eastern shore, a low sandy tongue of land called Point Record. This name was given to it on the occasion of Port Essington and the contiguous country, being taken possession of by Sir Gordon Bremer when on his way to settle Melville Island, in 1824. A bottle containing an account of their proceedings was buried, and hence the name. The same cause which influences the tides, has rendered the sides of the narrow channel very steep, and a vessel standing towards the bank fronting Spear Point, should, accordingly, tack when the water shoals to nine fathoms, as the soundings in approaching that part fronting Port Record are 12, 9, 7, and 2 fathoms.

Beyond these points, the harbour again widens and forms a large basin nearly five miles in extent; but from a broad point projecting two miles from the south-east side, the inner harbour is proportionably decreased in size. From the extreme of this cliffy point, called by Captain King, from its position, Middle Head, a narrow bank extends some distance in the direction of Point Record, forming the only danger in this part of the harbour.

BEARINGS FOR THE HARBOUR.

From its outer edge, Point Record bears north, and the North-East part of Middle Head, South 76 degrees East. These and other bearings recently given, will perhaps be considered of little value by the general reader, but as they were required to take the Beagle into Port Essington, they will be found useful to others for the same purpose.

APPEARANCE OF THE SETTLEMENT.

The narrow entrance to the inner harbour, may by some be considered a drawback, but on the other hand, it must be borne in mind, that what is an impediment to navigation, is also a safeguard against attack. Moreover, from this want of breadth in the harbour, a fort on Point Record, which is commanded by no height, would perfectly protect it.

It was from this confined portion that our anxious desire to catch a glimpse of the new settlement was at length gratified; and we were somewhat surprised, considering the recent date of its formation, to discover the presence of so many buildings as were scattered over the top of a cliffy point on the south-west part of the harbour, called Adam Head, at the base of which was a long jetty.

Clearing the bank off Spear Point, we ran up and anchored near H.M.S. Britomart, lying off the settlement, early in the afternoon. The sight of another vessel is ever cheering to the hearts of those who have been, as it were, for a time, cut off from the world;* nor was our arrival, bringing, as we did, news and letters, any less welcome; though after a long interval the receipt of a letter, perhaps bearing an ill omen in the very colour of its wax, is very far from generating unmixed emotions of pleasure. So much may occur in the brief space of a few months, that a seal must ever be broken with feelings of great anxiety.

(*Footnote. I well remember the sensations I experienced on first seeing a sail after an interval of nine months, and that wholly spent on the storm-beaten shores of South-western Tierra Del Fuego. J.L.S.)

PORT ESSINGTON.

We too had our share of news to be made acquainted with. Captain Stanley had been on a most interesting cruise to the Arru Islands, the deeply interesting narrative of which expedition the reader will peruse, we are sure, with unqualified satisfaction, in a later section of the present work. This meeting gave me real pleasure, though with regret I saw that he had been much harassed. Lieutenant P.B. Stewart,* of the Alligator, had also made a journey over the Peninsula, to which I shall presently further allude.

(*Footnote. Since promoted for services in China; he also served in the Beagle during her last expedition.)

We were of course extremely anxious to visit the settlement. Landing at the jetty, which we found a very creditable piece of workmanship erected under the direction of Lieutenant P.B. Stewart, we ascended the cliff, and on gaining the summit, found ourselves on a small piece of tableland partially cleared. Seen through the trees, the dwellings of the settlers had an air of neatness, pleasing to the eye. Among the other buildings in progress was the church, which, planted as it was on the northern shores of the Australian continent, was expected to form a nucleus from which offshoots might by degrees draw within its influence the islands in the Arafura Sea, and thus widely spread the pure blessings of Christianity. It is highly characteristic of our countrymen, that where with other nations, the tavern, the theatre, the dancing-house, are among the earliest buildings in a new settlement, with us everywhere the church is first thought of. In few corners of the world, where English influence has extended itself, is this otherwise than true, and it is a highly enviable distinction. It seems, indeed, that wherever the flag of Britain floats, there is made known the Word of God in its purity; and as an empire has been vouchsafed us on which the sun never sets, the extent of our influence for good in this respect is incalculable. We may venture to express our sincere hope, that our country will ever continue to enjoy this noble supremacy.

At the south-east extremity of the settlement, raised on piles, was the Government-house, fronted on the harbour side by a small battery. Behind the table-plain, the land, producing very coarse grass, falls away to the south-west, and some clear patches which from lying in a low situation, are flooded during the rains, form tolerable soil. Generally speaking, however, there is a great deficiency of land fit for cultivation. On some of the best spots lying to the southward and westward, gardens have been commenced with some success.

Before proceeding further with our journal of events at Port Essington, it may be proper to introduce some brief account of the state and prospects of the settlement at that place. The reader will remember an allusion in a previous chapter to the departure from Sydney of the expedition despatched for the purpose of forming it, as well as some remarks on the policy of giving it a purely military character. That expedition reached its destination on October 27, 1838, having taken formal possession on the way, of Cape York and the adjacent territory. Sir Gordon Bremer's first care was to select a site for the proposed township; and after due deliberation, a spot was fixed on which was thought to combine all desirable advantages: as good soil, the neighbourhood of fresh water, and easy approach from the ships in port. In the selection of the spot to be occupied by a settlement, the capabilities of the soil must ever be the first consideration; still, however, there will always exist an objection on the ground of its great distance of 16 miles from the mouth of the harbour. A similar disadvantage in the Falkland Islands, proved of great detriment to the settlement in Berkeley Sound.

The site of Victoria, for such was the name bestowed, in honour of her Majesty, on the new settlement, is raised in the loftiest part about fifty feet above high-water level. Upon it the plans of a number of cottages and gardens were rapidly marked out; and it was not long before this hitherto desolate spot presented the appearance of a large straggling village. A pier was speedily run out into the sea; and a good road cut to it. The church, also, which I have before mentioned, was soon to be distinguished, rising above the Government cottage and officers' quarters; while in order to ensure an ample supply of water, deep wells were sunk on the tableland within the settlement, which fully answered expectation, the water proving good and abundant.

Not long after the arrival of the expedition, M. Dumont D'Urville, with the Astrolabe and Zelie, arrived in Raffles Bay, and it was popularly believed that they had entertained some intentions of forestalling our settlement. At any rate, the question whether foreign powers were entitled to take possession of points on the coast of Australia was much debated at the time. However this may be, and with whatever feelings the respective Governments of France and England may have regarded each other at the time, the officers of the two nations seemed to vie in courtesy. A boat was despatched from Victoria to invite them to enter the harbour, and the greatest harmony prevailed during their stay.

On the 28th of March, six Malay proas came in and were soon followed by others, their owners soliciting permission to erect their establishments for curing trepang under the protection of the British flag. This being granted, they made choice of a spot on the beach, and a little subsidiary settlement soon sprung up. Being now for the first time secure from the attacks of the natives, whose hostility had until then forced every other man of them to keep under arms whilst the rest worked, they expected to pursue their occupation with far greater advantage to themselves. Originally hopes were entertained that a very large population of Malays, and even Chinese would speedily collect at Port Essington: but from some defect in the colonial regulations their immigration was for a time checked. At length, however, a remedy has been applied, and facility given for the introduction of settlers from the Indian Archipelago and the Celestial Empire.

The great difficulty that this small settlement has had to contend with from the beginning, is the climate; which, though not absolutely pernicious in itself, is unsuited to European constitutions. The settlers have been attacked at various times by fever, and have experienced a large comparative mortality; but hopes are entertained that by proper regulations, especially if temperate habits could be introduced, this may be avoided.

The capabilities of the soil, though it has by some been pronounced totally unfit for agricultural purposes, are still supposed by others to be great, and it is believed that if colonists, capable of working in the climate, could be induced to repair to Port Essington, rice, cotton, indigo, etc. might be raised, of the finest quality, and in great abundance.

The livestock at the settlements, consisted, by the last accounts, of an English cow and a bull, two Indian heifers and two cows, above fifty goats, six working oxen, thirty buffaloes, six pigs, a few fowls, five ponies, and thirty half-greyhounds for catching kangaroos. Some of these were private, others public property. Several cattle have been lost, on hearing which, a plan that had before suggested itself, recurred vividly to my mind. I once thought the herds of buffalo and other animals might be prevented from straying, by a fence run across the Peninsula, between Mount Norris Bay, and the north-east corner of Van Diemen's Gulf. The width is only three miles, and the rude Micmac Indians of Newfoundland, have carried fences for a similar purpose many times that extent. The necessity of so doing became more apparent each time I visited the place, especially when I heard of herds of buffaloes being seen upon the main. Another advantage which occurred to me in connection with this subject, was, that it would have rendered an out-station necessary, and have thus led to a further communication with the natives, which would ultimately tend to increase our knowledge of them and the interior; this after our subsequent discovery of Adelaide river became of still greater moment. The existence of the out-station would also form a change for the settlers, and journeys thither would remove the dreary inactivity of a new settlement at certain periods. The absence of this fence may account for Captain Grey's party having seen signs of buffalo on the mainland; he discovered the tracks of a cloven-footed animal, which one of his men who had been much in South Africa, at once recognised as the spur of a buffalo. But one advantage can arise from the want of this precaution. Some of the finest lands in the neighbourhood of Sydney, now called Cow Pastures, were discovered, by finding them to be the constant haunt of wild cattle; a similar accident might prove equally advantageous in the neighbourhood of Port Essington.

To return, however, to the period of the establishment of the colony: it was of course deemed desirable to take an early opportunity of exploring Cobourg Peninsula, on which Victoria is situated; and accordingly on May 1st, Lieutenant P.B. Stewart, with several well-armed companions, started on an exploring expedition. They carried water and a week's provisions on two ponies, but did not encumber themselves with a tent; sheltering themselves at night from the dew in little huts made of branches. On the second day they crossed several running streams, with extensive grassy patches, and came to a halt during the sultry part of the day on the banks of a river or chain of pools. Here grew many fine cedar-trees, of a light colour and close-grained, while thick woods of the mangrove appeared on all sides: these much impeded their advance, and prevented them from making any great progress. However, they crossed to the eastern side of the Peninsula, where they found a rich and beautiful country, in some parts reminding them of the rich South American forest, rather than the dreary sameness of an Australian wood. Numerous tracks of the buffalo seemed to testify to the excellence of the pasture. Several evidences, also, of the presence of natives were from time to time discovered, and at length a small party met them and exhibited a very friendly spirit. They acted as guides to the explorers, showing them where water could be found, giving every information in their power, and supplying them with crabs; but of course they did not fail to ask for bread, of which as much as could be spared was given them. On May 8th, they conducted Lieutenant Stewart's party back to Middle Head, and he expresses great surprise at the precision with which they found their way in the bush without having any apparent means to guide them. I have before alluded to this instinctive power of the aborigines of Australia.

Lieutenant Stewart gives as the general result of his observations, extending over about seventy or eighty miles, that there is abundance of fresh water on the Peninsula; that the South side is by far the finest and best watered country; that the trees are there free from the white ant; and that in a large tract of country, the cabbage-palm abounds. He also observes, that as much of the south coast as he saw, has a coral reef extending about a mile from the beach; and that the rise and fall of the tide is much greater than at Port Essington.

The natives were found by the settlers, as we have already stated, very friendly, and their assistance proved valuable: they brought in the head of the palm-cabbage, which makes an excellent vegetable, though to procure it, the tree is cut down and destroyed: they also supplied the party with wild honey. One of the Raffles Bay tribe instantly made himself known on the arrival of the Expedition in the Bay; he was called by the name of Alligator, on account of his huge teeth, though his proper appellation was Marambari.

From Lieutenant Vallach* of H.M.S. Britomart, I received much valuable information respecting the natives, whom I find to be divided in three distinct classes, which do not intermarry. The first is known as Maudrojilly, the second as Mamburgy, the third as Mandrouilly. They are very particular about the distinction of classes, but we could never discover which was the superior and which the inferior class, though it is supposed by most of those who have inquired into the subject, that the Madrojilly, or first class, head the others in war, and govern the affairs of the tribe.

(*Footnote. Lieutenant Vallach died at Moulmain in 1841.)

These aborigines were certainly a fine race, differing in some matters from the other natives of Australia; their hair was neither curly nor straight, but crisp. The custom of extracting a front tooth prevails among them, while the nasal cartilage here as elsewhere was perforated. I noticed in particular that they did not make use of the boomerang, or kiley, but of the throwing stick or womera, of a larger kind, however, than any I have observed elsewhere; the head of their spears was made of stone. They have a smaller kind, chiefly used to kill birds and other animals at a considerable distance. They have also large heavy clubs, while the natives on the South coast carry only the short throwing stick.* They go wholly naked, except when entering the settlements, on which occasions they wear a few leaves. Their canoes were chiefly obtained from the Malays.

(*Footnote. We refer our readers to Mr. Eyre's work, where these and other weapons are figured.)

I here saw the only musical instrument I ever remarked among the natives of Australia. It is a piece of bamboo thinned from the inside, through which they blow with their noses. It is from two to three feet long, is called ebroo, and produces a kind of droning noise. It is generally made use of at corrobories or dances, some of which express feats of hunting and war, while others are very indecent, and reminded us of similar exhibitions in the East. It was generally remarked that the old clothes given to these savages disappeared in a most mysterious manner. They were understood to be sold to the natives inhabiting the loftier parts of the interior, but of this I entertain very considerable doubt. Sand, in which the Australian continent abounds, is like everything else proceeding from the hand of the Creator, not without its uses. On cold nights the natives make up for their total want of covering, by burying themselves in it, and nothing can be more irresistibly comic than to see these black lumps sticking out of the earth, like so many enchanted unfortunates in an eastern romance. It moreover has other uses, forming a substitute for soap;* and when cooking turtle it is mixed with earth and sprinkled over the meat, as we should pepper.

(*Footnote. Their general habits are cleanly.)

One discovery which was made through the medium of the natives, was that the large tumuli noticed by Captain King and others, and supposed to be raised by the inhabitants, are the works of a bird; some of them are thirty feet long and about five feet high; they are always built near thick bushes in which they can take shelter, at the least alarm. The edifice is erected with the feet, which are remarkable both for size and strength, and a peculiar power of grasping; they are yellow while the body is brown. Nothing can be more curious than to see them hopping towards these piles on one foot, the other being filled with materials for building. Though much smaller in shape, in manner they much resemble moor-fowl. The use made of the mound is to contain eggs, which are deposited in layers, and are then hatched by the heat generated in part from decomposition. The instant that the shell bursts, the young bird comes forth strong and large, and runs without the slightest care being taken of it by the parent. Of the number of eggs laid by each bird, seldom more than two are hatched. It is singular that these mounds are found away from the earth and shells of which they are composed. It seems difficult to credit that a bird so small could raise a structure so large. The largest we ever saw was about eight feet high, on one of the Possession Islands in Endeavour Strait.

The name given to the bird by Mr. Gould is Megapodius tumulus, and it will be unnecessary to enter upon any further details concerning it, as he has described it most interestingly in his work on the birds of Australia.

Great numbers of kangaroos were also found here, which at the period of our arrival the settlers were just getting into the way of killing. There are three varieties, of which the largest weighs about 160 pounds. I must further allude to a most beautiful little opossum which inhabits these parts. It is about half the size of a full-grown rat, and designated as Belideus ariel. Its colour and fur greatly resemble the chinchilla, and I have little doubt that the skin is valuable and might be made an article of trade. This animal has a membrane between the fore and hind paws, which aids it to some extent when leaping from bough to bough. It is a great enemy to the wild bee, devouring them and their nests; the bees the natives discover by tapping the tree and listening for a buzzing from within. Those we saw, amounting to nearly a hundred, were about the size of a fly, of a dusky black colour, and strange to say, were hovering round an empty tar-barrel. They have been unsuccessfully tried in hives at Sydney.

Alligators abound, and one of the marines had a very narrow escape from them. It appears that one of these monsters who had come out of the water in the night, in search of food, found him sleeping in his hammock, which he had very injudiciously hung up near the water. The alligator made a snap at his prize; but startled at this frightful interruption of his slumbers, the man dexterously extricated himself out of his blanket, which the unwieldy brute, doubtless enraged at his disappointment, carried off in triumph. For some time this story was not believed, but when afterwards the huge reptile, on a similar excursion, was shot, a portion of the blanket was found in his stomach with the paw of a favourite spaniel, taken when swimming off the pier head.

Extensive hauls of fish were made on Point Record, amongst which one species, there called salmon, was most excellent eating.

It is unnecessary for a transient visitor to enlarge upon the birds of Port Essington, as in Mr. Gould's work we have the result of the labours of an individual who spent months collecting in the neighbourhood.

The spot selected for our observations was Government House, where nearly a hundred observations with the sun and stars were made for latitude, the mean result being 11 degrees 22 minutes 21 seconds South, which strange to say, was nearly 15 seconds greater than Captain Stanley and Mr. Tyers' determination: this difference to me was quite unaccountable, as the instruments used in the Beagle were before and subsequently, satisfactorily tested at well determined places. The longitude being affected by the doubtful meridian distance between Sydney and Port Stephens, we can only give an approximate result; and therefore for the sake of the longitudes of those places referred to the meridian of Port Essington, we consider it 132 degrees 12 minutes East of Greenwich.

From the quantity of iron in the rocks at Victoria, it was impossible to get any satisfactory observation for the variation of the compass. Those obtained varied from 3/4 to 2 1/2 degrees east.

We found that Mr. Tyers had made about seven months' observations on the tides, which gave a very irregular rise and fall, varying from two to thirteen feet. The time of high-water being half past three, at the full and change. Oxide of iron is found in some places in large quantities, and is used by the natives to adorn themselves when dancing. This it is which gives to the coast the peculiar red hue noticed between Cape Croker and Port Essington. Many of the cliffs were composed of a light-coloured marl; but the formation is chiefly old arenaceous rocks. Two of the highest and most remarkable hills on the Peninsula, known as Mounts Bedwell and Rose, have singular flat tops, bearing some resemblance to the curious appearance of Cape Bedford. I am inclined to believe this formation to be floetz trappe. Their elevation is about four hundred feet, being twice the general height of the Peninsula.

RAFFLES BAY.

The temperature during our stay averaged 82 degrees while land and sea breezes prevailed. We should not omit to mention, that Lieutenant Stewart, when visiting Raffles Bay in order to invite the French officers as above alluded to, found that a deep inlet intervening, formed a good harbour, to which he gave the name of Port Bremer. Of the old settlement nothing remained, save the graves of those whose labours had tended to render this part of Australia another outlet for the surplus population of the mother country, extending at the same time the blessings of civilization. The rapid growth of rank vegetation had swept all else away, and there in solemn solitude, upon that still and silent shore, mouldered the bones of the original colonists of Raffles Bay, whose praiseworthy efforts were rendered futile, by the unfavourable reports forwarded to Government; reports we cannot think entirely free from prejudice, when we know from Captain Law's account, that one of the Commandants declared that he felt disposed to sell out of the army in preference to going there.* One thus prepared to dislike the place, could scarcely be expected to take an interest in the country, or endeavour fully to develop its resources.

(*Footnote. See Wilson's Voyage round the World page 153.)

We cannot avoid expressing our regret at the abandonment of the settlement in Raffles Bay, after it had gone on so far successfully under Captain Barker's excellent management. In mentioning his kindness to the natives, to whose goodwill we must always owe much, we have already given one of the causes which assisted in fostering the undertaking. Nothing could be more unwise than the hostility shown to the natives by the first settlers, as from them we must always calculate on learning much that is useful and valuable, with regard to the productions of the country; a knowledge which would otherwise consume much time to acquire. This was not the only matter, however, in which he showed his superior good sense and judgment. His enticing the people of Macassar to come and locate there, was another instance of his foresight, which would have led in time to very favourable results. He was soon, however, compelled to retract his invitation, writing from Coepang to the Dutch Governor of Macassar, in order to stop the immigration, which otherwise would have been considerable. With all these several elements of success, we should doubtless, but for the abandonment, have now had a flourishing settlement in Northern Australia. The causes which led to its breaking up, are thus succinctly given by Dr. Wilson. "The alleged causes were: first, the unhealthiness of the climate; secondly, the hostility of the natives; and thirdly, the non-visitation of the Malays."

These he clearly proved, as we have subsequently done, to be without much foundation; but we ourselves do not so much deplore the leaving of Raffles Bay, perhaps an ill-chosen site, but rather that the settlement was not removed instead of being given up. When the anxieties and difficulties which universally accompany the formation of a new settlement are reflected on, the regret we have already expressed will be more easily understood. When Port Essington was located, all these had to be suffered over again; whereas had the station at Raffles Bay, been transferred thither at once, it would have been now at a very high pitch of perfection. Besides, however small the spot on which the English flag waves constantly, it will always prove a check on the marauding propensities of the neighbouring islanders, and thus add materially to the general welfare and civilization of such portions of the globe as fall within the influence of the respected locality.*

(*Footnote. In further proof of the prospects of success, which were open to the new settlement under its able Commandant, we give the following extract from Dr. Wilson's journal, when at Coepang, in company with Captain Barker, after their final departure from Raffles Bay. "We were informed by the master of the Mercus, that many Chinese were about to emigrate from Java to Raffles Bay, having recently learned that they would be permitted to do so. The total abandonment of the North coast of New Holland caused much regret to the mercantile people here, as they had anticipated great advantages from a commercial intercourse.' Wilson's Narrative page 179.)

LEAVE PORT ESSINGTON.

July 24.

Finding that we could not procure a supply of provisions from the settlement, our stay was necessarily, though reluctantly, of short duration, and on the morning of the 24th, we were accordingly running out of Port Essington. After rounding Vashon Head, we steered to the westward, along the northern side of the Peninsula, and early in the afternoon anchored in Popham Bay, one point of which is formed by the North-West extreme of the Peninsula, a low projection with one tall mangrove growing on the point, and fronted by an extensive coral reef, past which a two-knot tide sweeps into the gulf of Van Diemen. On the eastern side of this projection is a snug boat or small-craft harbour, much frequented by the Malays, who call it Blue-mud Bay. It may be recognized by a little island lying off its mouth.

Our attention having been directed towards the openings on the coast opposite Melville Island, we proceeded towards the first, lying on the south side of Clarence Strait. It was further important to ascertain, if that strait was navigable, and also to examine the south-eastern side of Melville Island.

BIRD ISLAND.

Finding the western shore of Cobourg Peninsula placed too far from Port Essington on the chart, it was determined to commence the survey at Popham Bay, choosing for the observation spot a small bank of sand and dead coral lying in its centre, and bearing East 1/2 South 1/4 of a mile from where we anchored in nine fathoms. We named this Bird Island, from finding it almost covered with terns and gulls. The latitude of it according to our observations was 11 degrees 15 1/2 minutes South and longitude West of Port Essington 22 1/2 miles, being 4 1/2 less than is given in Captain King's chart, the North-West extreme of the Peninsula being there placed too far from Port Essington, and the North-East point, Cape Croker, too near, it would appear that the discrepancy was chiefly in the position of Port Essington, with respect to the northern extremes of the Peninsula, as Captain King and ourselves only now differ two miles in the distance between Cape Croker and Popham Bay, ours being the greater. The evening was calm as usual, while midnight brought with it a fresh South-East wind. During the night the temperature was as low as 73 degrees.

July 25.

On leaving at daylight we crossed over to examine the western shores of Dundas Strait, formed by the eastern side of Melville Island; Captain King having passed it in the night. As we stood close along it into the gulf, we found the soundings very irregular. Six miles North 40 degrees East from Cape Keith, we passed over two patches of only three or four fathoms; these we could not see from the general disturbed and discoloured state of the water, it blowing fresh from South-East. We found the nature of this part of Melville Island to be low rocky points, separating sandy bays. One of the few remarkable features on it, is a round hill 320 feet high, five miles North-West from Cape Keith.

CLARENCE STRAIT.

Passing the latter, we crossed over to the opposite eastern entrance point of Clarence Strait, Cape Hotham, discovering on our way thither a reef nearly awash, about two miles in extent, bearing South 25 degrees West fifteen miles from Cape Keith, and North 10 degrees East fourteen miles from Cape Hotham. The deepest water we found while crossing was 22 fathoms, five miles north of the latter, the general depth being 13 and 15 fathoms. The wind failing in the afternoon, it was evening when we reached our anchorage in nine fathoms, Cape Hotham bearing South 43 West, two miles and a half, and close to the edge of a large shoal which we subsequently found to extend a mile and a half north, and six miles east from the Cape. Here we found the tides set West by South and East-North-East from half a knot to two knots, the westerly stream beginning nearly three hours after high-water, a peculiarity generally occurring in straits.

July 26.

After one of those soft and lovely evenings so common to this part of Australia, with a gentle breeze and cloudless sky, we were surprised to find that the morning opened dreary and gloomy. There was a very fresh South-South-East wind with heavy masses of clouds; the breeze continued until noon, when as usual it subsided. We moved the ship a few miles down the opening in the south side of the strait, and in the afternoon a party went on shore near Cape Hotham. We found the country very poor and sandy, and elevated about fifteen feet above high-water mark. Despite this, the white gum-trees appear to thrive, growing in great abundance, about thirty or forty feet high; there were also others of a different kind, besides a few palms. The rocks were red sand and ironstone blended together. In some places I noticed it had the same glazed and vitrified appearance, as before remarked by me at King's Sound, on the North-West coast.

Mr. Bynoe, who was of the party, added to his collection of birds, a kingfisher, and a specimen of a glossy species about the size and colour of an English blackbird; others were seen and killed, but all common to other parts; the most rare of the latter was the large cream-coloured pigeon I have alluded to, some few pages back.

NATIVE COMPANION.

The white ibis with a black neck, plentiful in King's Sound, and a large bird, a species of crane, were also seen. The latter was of a French grey hue, with the exception of the head, which was black and of the shape of a bittern, commonly known among the colonists by the name of native companion. It is difficult to imagine how this name could have originated, as there is no instance of the natives making a pet of anything, except the wild dog of the country, and of that only, it is probable, from its utility in procuring them food. On visiting this place a few days afterwards, to repeat the observations for the errors of the chronometers, we saw a few natives, but they avoided an interview, disappearing when we landed. They made the same motions with their arms, throwing them open, and bowing as the natives in King's Sound did. The few huts I fell in with, reminded me of one I had seen near the North-West part of King's Sound, a representation of which will be found in the portion of the work descriptive of that locality.

Those on Cape Hotham, to enter more into particulars, did not exceed five feet in height, nor were they so substantially built; they were, however, well thatched with the same kind of coarse grass. The entrances were carefully closed, except in one instance, when the aperture was so small that it was with difficulty I could crawl in; when I had entered there was nothing to gratify my curiosity.

NATIVE CLOTHING.

Hanging on trees round these habitations, were specimens of an article of clothing, never before seen among the Aborigines of Australia, for which reason I have been induced to give the woodcut of one.* It is a kind of covering for the shoulders, a species of cape, made from coarse grass.

(*Footnote. I have since heard from Mr. Earl, that the women in the South-East part of Van Diemen's Gulf, occasionally wear a covering round their waist, somewhat similar to the representation given.)

Baskets were also left hanging on the trees, bespeaking the honesty of the inhabitants of this part of the country.

The land near the huts was turned up in search of roots, and close by were some large clubs. The thermometer fell in the night to 67 degrees, producing the novel though pleasant sensation of cold.

July 27.

Although apparently we could trace the land, near the head of the opening or bay, still the great set of tide in that direction, left hopes of its being the mouth of a river. We have already alluded to the difficulty of detecting the mouth of Australian streams, and the doubts thus engendered occasioned the greater anxiety.

Impatient to learn the truth, Mr. Fitzmaurice was despatched to examine the head of the bay, whilst the ship was moved towards it, anchoring again one mile North-West from a very remarkable patch of low red cliffs (which from startling circumstances, hereafter to be related, were called Escape Cliffs) and only two cables length distant from the coral ledge, by which this and the shores around were fronted.

VISIT THE SHORE.

Here another party visited the shore, and those whose occupation did not render their presence necessary near the water, strolled into the country, penetrating about four or five miles inland, but they were rewarded by the sight of no novelty, or even variety in the scenery, beyond what was presented to our view on the visit to Cape Hotham, which it will readily be allowed was little enough. Indeed it will in general be found, that in Australia, a change of formation is necessary to produce any of the scenery, which otherwise exhibits a most monotonous sameness.

A coarse kind of ironstone gravel was (if I may use the term) scattered over the face of the country; some of it had a glazed appearance on the surface, being hollow within, and about the size of a musket ball. Properly speaking they are composed of a ferruginous sandstone, but they have been already more fully alluded to when first met with at Point Cunningham, near King's Sound, on the North-West coast. The general formation is the same as at Cape Hotham, itself almost identical with the rocks at Port Essington. A few traces of small kangaroos were seen; but not a bird or any other living thing two miles from the beach. This peculiarity the reader will remember was also noticed in the neighbourhood of King's Sound.

DISCOVERY OF ADELAIDE RIVER.

On returning to the ship we found that Mr. Fitzmaurice had arrived, bringing the expected, and very gratifying intelligence, that a large river with two branches, running South-East and South, with a depth of four fathoms, emptied itself into the head of the bay. The joy a discovery of this nature imparts to the explorer, when examining a country so proverbially destitute of rivers as Australia, is much more easily imagined than described. It formed a species of oasis amid the ordinary routine of surveying, rousing our energies, and giving universal delight. The castle-builders were immediately at work, with expectations beyond the pale of reason.

EXPLORING PARTY.

An exploring party, however, was at once formed, consisting of Captain Wickham, Lieutenant Emery, and Mr. Helpman, who—the next day being Sunday—did not leave before the morning of the 29th, with two boats and four days' provisions.

Many were the anxious and envious looks bestowed on the party as they left the ship on the deeply interesting service of exploring the new river. So strong and native is man's desire for the unknown, that his feelings are never more tried than when on the brink of a discovery, while those who are in presence of the novelty, and cannot enjoy the satisfaction of tasting that pleasure, must ever experience somewhat acute emotions of regret.

There was no difficulty in finding a name for a river which fell into Clarence Strait; it was at once, therefore, honoured with that of Adelaide, after her most gracious Majesty the Queen Dowager. The bay that receives its waters was called after Vice-Admiral Sir Charles Adam. The remaining part of the south side of Clarence Strait, together with the islands in the western entrance of it, gave ample, though not such interesting employment as the exploration of the Adelaide, to those who were left behind. Several unsuccessful hauls were made with the seine, fish in Adam Bay being very scarce.

NATIVE FAMILY.

Near Escape Cliffs I met a small family of natives, consisting of an elderly man, his wife, and four children; by degrees, advancing alone, I contrived to get near enough to make the woman a present of a handkerchief, in return for which she gave me a large leaf of the cabbage palm, that was slung across her back. I at length drew all the family around me, the eldest child, a youth of about 15, being the most timid. He had a small piece of wood two feet long, sticking through the cartilage of his nose. His teeth and those of the other children were quite perfect, but in the father and mother two of the upper front ones were gone, as we before noticed was the case with the natives at Port Essington, where this ceremony is performed after marriage. The hair of these people was neither curly nor straight, but what I have before called crisp, being of that wavy nature sometimes noticed in Europeans.

They had with them three small-sized dogs of a light brown colour, of which they appeared very fond, and I could not induce them to part with them.

The old man's spear was not barbed, and the womera or throwing stick of the same long narrow shape as at Port Essington. The woman had also the same bottle-shaped basket slung over her neck, as before remarked, and containing white and red earths for painting their bodies.

CURIOSITY AND FEAR.

These people exhibited more curiosity than I had before noticed in the Aborigines, as I was able to induce them to visit the whaleboat that was on shore close by. Here, as in other places, the size of the oars first astonished them, and next the largeness of the boat itself. The exclamations of surprise given vent to by the old man as he gazed on the workmanship of his civilized brethren, were amusing; suddenly a loud shout would burst from his lips, and then a low whistle. I watched the rapid change of countenance in this wild savage with interest; all his motions were full of matter for observation. The mixed curiosity and dread depicted in his dusky face, the feeling of secret alarm at this first rencontre with a white man intruding in his native wilds, which he must have experienced, added much to the zest of the scene. I, however, at length almost persuaded the old man to accompany me on board; he even put one foot in the boat for the purpose, when seeing the depth of the interior, he recoiled with a slight shudder, as if from immersion in cold water. He was now overwhelmed by the woman and elder child with entreaties not to take such a rash step, and their rude eloquence succeeded.

It was amusing to see the struggle between fear and curiosity plainly depicted in the man's face, as he stood with one foot on the boat, and the other on the shore, hearkening but too credulously to the picture of danger, forcibly drawn by his friends, while curiosity, with almost equal strength, was urging him to dare the perils of the white man's boat.

A desire to be better acquainted with the strangers who had come to the shores of his native land in a large bird—such being their strange idea of a ship, the sails forming the wings—no doubt materially influenced him; but the eloquence of his relatives prevailed over all; and this interesting interview terminated by our leaving the shore without our sable friend, who, however, promised to visit the ship in an old bark canoe, about 20 feet long, that was lying on the beach near at hand. This promise was faithfully kept, for the same evening, a canoe was seen paddling off, containing two young natives in addition to the old man. They stopped at some distance from the ship, moving round to view her on all sides.

ATTEMPT TO ENTICE NATIVES ON BOARD.

Fearing at last that their courage had failed, and that they would not come on board, the dinghy, our smallest boat, was sent towards them, there being only a boy besides myself in it.

I had hoped that thus they would not be frightened, but they instantly began to move towards the shore, and it required some manoeuvring to get near them; succeeding at length, however, I found my acquaintance of the morning anxious to go to the ship, a measure the other two did not at all approve of, as they kept edging away towards the land, whilst I gave the old man the presents I had brought him. At one time the dinghy got between the canoe and the shore, when instantly a gleam of terror flashed across the faces of the young men. One of them was a large square-headed fellow of ferocious aspect, whose countenance was lit up by a look of fierce revenge, as the canoe made towards the land, after I had ceased my endeavours to entice them on board.

Whatever these people may have imagined to be our motive in wishing them to visit the ship, I little thought that my pressing them would have so nearly led to fatal results. I shall proceed to explain this remark by relating the startling circumstances from which Escape Cliffs received their name.

NARROW ESCAPE OF MR. FITZMAURICE.

A few days after my interview in the dinghy with the natives, Mr. Fitzmaurice went ashore to compare the compasses. From the quantity of iron contained in the rocks, it was necessary to select a spot free from their influence. A sandy beach at the foot of Escape Cliffs was accordingly chosen. The observations had been commenced, and were about half completed, when on the summit of the cliffs, which rose about twenty feet above their heads, suddenly appeared a large party of natives with poised and quivering spears, as if about immediately to deliver them. Stamping on the ground, and shaking their heads to and fro, they threw out their long shaggy locks in a circle, whilst their glaring eyes flashed with fury as they champed and spit out the ends of their long beards.* They were evidently in earnest, and bent on mischief.

(*Footnote. A custom with Australian natives when in a state of violent excitement.)

DANCING FOR LIFE.

It was, therefore, not a little surprising to behold this paroxysm of rage evaporate before the happy presence of mind displayed by Mr. Fitzmaurice, in immediately beginning to dance and shout, though in momentary expectation of being pierced by a dozen spears. In this he was imitated by Mr. Keys, who was assisting in the observations, and who at the moment was a little distance off, and might have escaped. Without, however, thinking of himself, he very nobly joined his companion in amusing the natives; and they succeeded in diverting them from their evident evil designs, until a boat landing in a bay near drew off their attention. The foremost of this party was recognised to be the ill-looking fellow, who left me in the canoe with a revengeful scowl upon his face.

Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys had firearms lying on the ground within reach of their hands; the instant, however, they ceased dancing, and attempted to touch them, a dozen spears were pointed at their breasts. Their lives hung upon a thread, and their escape must be regarded as truly wonderful, and only to be attributed to the happy readiness with which they adapted themselves to the perils of their situation. This was the last we saw of the natives in Adam Bay, and the meeting is likely to be long remembered by some, and not without pleasant recollections; for although, at the time, it was justly looked upon as a very serious affair, it afterwards proved a great source of mirth. No one could recall to mind, without laughing, the ludicrous figure necessarily cut by our shipmates, when to amuse the natives, they figured on the light fantastic toe; and the readers, who look at the plate representing this really serious affair,* will behold two men literally dancing for their lives.

(*Footnote. See above.)

RETURN OF THE BOATS.

August 2.

This morning the boats returned; they had gone up the Adelaide in a general southerly direction, nearly 80 miles: the windings of the river, which were very great in some places, forming the shape of the letter S. It became at this distance very narrow, and was divided into two branches, one taking a southerly direction, the other an easterly; the latter was too narrow for the boat's oars, while the former was blocked up by fallen trees lying across it. As in addition to the difficulties just mentioned, only one day's provision remained in the boats, the further exploration of the Adelaide was necessarily, though reluctantly, abandoned.

BANKS OF THE ADELAIDE.

For thirty miles of the upper part of the river the water was fresh; while the banks, excepting near the point of separation, were low, being not more than five feet above the present level of the river, a circumstance very favourable for irrigation, and the cultivation of rice. Fifteen miles from the mouth they were fringed by the growth of mangroves; and higher up many of the points were thickly wooded, while on either side stretched a vast extent of prairie country, dotted here and there with islands of timber, which served to break the native monotony of the scene. Somewhat less than halfway up, rose on both banks a thick jungle of bamboo, which, in places where the water was always fresh, attained the gigantic height of from 60 to 80 feet. Between 20 and 70 miles from the mouth the soil is a good light-coloured mould; above this, commencing where the bank of the river is marked by a coarse red gritty sandstone projection, the aspect of the country changes from that of low plains to a slightly wooded and gently undulating surface, in some places stony. This character continued to the furthest point reached in the boats, in latitude 12 degrees 57 minutes South, and longitude 131 degrees 19 minutes East.