We will suppose that we have, say, a quart of really good thick cream. All that is necessary is to beat up the cream with a whisk till it becomes a froth. This is much more easily done in cold weather than in hot, and, if the weather be very warm, it is best to put the tin or pan containing the cream into ice an hour or two before it is used. Old French cookery-books recommend the addition of a little powdered gum, not bigger than a pea, and the gum recommended is that known as tragacanth. Others again beat up the white of an egg to a stiff froth, and add this to the cream. It is a good plan when the cream fails to froth completely to take off the top froth and drain it on a sieve placed upside down. The cream that drains through can be added to what is left and re-whipped. It is also a good plan to make whipped cream some time before it is wanted, and, indeed, it can be prepared with advantage the day before. When the cream is drained (we are supposing a quart to have been used) it should be mixed with three or four ounces of very finely powdered sugar, as well as the particular kind of flavouring that will give the cream its name. For instance, we can have, if liqueurs are allowed—

MARASCHINO CREAM.—This is simply made by mixing a small glass of maraschino with some whipped cream, properly sweetened.

COFFEE CREAM.—Make a very strong infusion of pure coffee that has been roasted a high colour. It will be found best to re-roast coffee berries in the oven if you have not got a proper coffee-roaster. Pound the berries in a pestle and mortar, or grind them very coarsely; then make a strong infusion with a very small quantity of water, and strain it till it is quite bright. This is mixed with the whipped sweetened cream.

CHOCOLATE CREAM.—Take about two ounces of the very best chocolate and dissolve it in a little boiling water; let it get cold, and then mix with the whipped sweetened cream.

VANILLA CREAM.—Vanilla cream is nicest when a fresh vanilla pod is used for the purpose, but a more simple process is to use a little essence of vanilla.

ORANGE CREAM.—Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange, and pound this sugar very finely, and then mix it with the whipped cream.

LEMON CREAM.—Proceed exactly as in making orange cream, only substituting lemon for orange.

STRAWBERRY CREAM.—The juice only of the strawberry should be used. This juice should be mixed with the powdered sugar and then used for mixing with the whipped cream. It is a mistake, in making creams, to have too much flavouring. The juice of a quarter of a pound of ripe red strawberries would be sufficient for a quart of cream.

PISTACHIO CREAM.—Take about half a pound of pistachio kernels, throw them for a minute or two into boiling water, and then rub off the skins, throwing them into cold water like you do in blanching almonds. Pound these in a mortar with a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and mix a little spinach extract to give it a colour. Now mix this with the whipped sweetened cream very thoroughly. This bright green cream makes a very elegant dish.

CUSTARDS.—Good custard forms, perhaps, the best cold sweet sauce known. It can be made very cheaply, and, on the other hand, it may be made in such a manner as to be very expensive. We will first describe how to make the most expensive kind of custard, as very often we can gather ideas from a high-class model and carry them out in an inexpensive way. The highest class custard is made by only using yolks of eggs instead of whole eggs, and we can use cream in addition to milk. The great art in making custard is to take care it does not curdle. Six yolks of eggs, half a pint of milk, half a pint of cream, sweetened, would, of course, form a very expensive custard. An ordinary custard can be made as follows:—Take four large or five small eggs, beat them up very thoroughly, and add them gradually to a pint of sweetened milk that has been boiled separately. In order to thicken the custard, it is a good plan to put it in a jug and stand the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the custard till it is sufficiently thick. Custard can be flavoured in various ways. One of the cheapest and perhaps nicest is to boil one or two bay-leaves in the milk. Custard can also be flavoured by the addition of a small quantity of the essence of vanilla; if you use a fresh pod vanilla, tie it up in a little piece of muslin and have a string to it. This can be boiled in the milk till the milk is sufficiently flavoured, and this pod can be used over and over again. Of course, as it loses its flavour, it will have to remain in the milk longer.

CHEAP CUSTARD.—A very cheap custard can be made by adding to one pint of boiled milk one well-beaten-up egg and one good-sized teaspoonful of corn-flour. The milk should be first sweetened, and can be flavoured very cheaply by rubbing a few lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon, or by having a few bay-leaves boiled in it. A rich yellow colour can be obtained by using a small quantity of yellow vegetable colouring extract, which, like the green colouring, is sold in bottles by all grocers. These bottles are very cheap, as they last a long time. They simply give any kind of pudding a rich colouring without imparting any flavour whatever, and in this respect are very superior to saffron.

APPLE CUSTARD.—Good apple custard can only be made by using apples of a good flavour. When apples are in season, this dish can be made fairly cheaply, but it does not do to use those high-priced imported apples. Peel and take out the cores of about four pounds of apples, and let these simmer till they are quite tender in rather more than a pint of water. Add about one pound of sugar, or rather less if the apples are sweet; add a little powdered cinnamon, and mix all this with eight eggs, well beaten up; stir the mixture very carefully in a saucepan, or better still in a good-sized jug placed in a saucepan, till it begins to thicken. This custard is best served in glasses, and a little cinnamon sugar can be shaken over the top. Nutmeg may be used instead of cinnamon, and by many is thought superior.

CHEESE-CAKES.—Cheese-cakes can be sent to table in two forms, the one some rich kind of custard or cream placed in little round pieces of pastry, or we can have a so-called cheese-cake baked in a pie-dish, the edges only of which are lined with puff paste. We can also have cheese-cakes very rich and cheese-cakes very plain. The origin of the name cheese-cake is that originally they were made from curds used in making cheese. Probably most people consider that the cheese-cakes made from curds are superior, and in the North of England, and especially in Yorkshire, where curds are exposed for sale in the windows at so much a pound, very delicious cheese-cakes can be made, but considerable difficulty will be experienced if we attempt to make home-made curds from London milk. Curds are made by taking any quantity of milk and letting it nearly boil, then throw in a little rennet or a glass of sherry. The curds must be well strained.

CHEESE-CAKES FROM CURDS.—Take half a pound of curds and press the curds in a napkin to extract the moisture. Take also six ounces of lump sugar, and rub the sugar on the outside of a couple of oranges or lemons. Dissolve this sugar in two ounces of butter made hot in a tin in the oven; mix this with the curds, with two ounces of powdered ratafias and a little grated nutmeg—about half a nutmeg to this quantity will be required; add also six yolks of eggs. Mix this well together, and fill the tartlet cases, made from puff paste, and bake them in the oven. It is often customary to place in the centre of each cheese-cake a thin strip of candied peel. As soon as the cheese-cakes are done, take them out of the oven, and if the mixture be of a bad colour finish it off with a salamander, but do not let them remain in the oven too long, so that the pastry becomes brittle and dried up. These cheese-cakes can be made on a larger scale than the ordinary one so familiar to all who have looked into a pastry-cook's window. Suppose we make them of the size of a breakfast saucer, a very rich and delicious cheese-cake can be made by adding some chopped dried cherries to the mixture. Sometimes ordinary grocer's currants are added and the ratafias omitted. Sultana raisins can be used instead of currants, and by many are much preferred.

This mixture can be baked in a shallow pie-dish and time edge of the dish lined with puff paste, but cheese-cakes made from curds are undoubtedly expensive.

CHEESE-CAKES FROM POTATOES.—Exceedingly nice cheese-cakes can be made from remains of cold potatoes, and can be made very cheap by increasing the quantity of potatoes used. Take a quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, two fresh lemons, and half a pound of lump sugar. First of all rub off all the outsides of two lemons on to the sugar; oil the butter in a tin in the oven and melt the sugar in it; squeeze the juice of the two lemons, and take care that the sugar is thoroughly dissolved before you begin to mix all the ingredients together. Now beat up the eggs very thoroughly and mix the whole in a basin. This now forms a very rich mixture indeed, a good-sized teaspoonful of which would be sufficient for the interior of an ordinary-sized cheese-cake, but a far better plan is to make a large cheese-cake, or rather cheese-cake pudding, in a pie-dish by adding cold boiled potatoes. The plainness or richness of the pudding depends entirely upon the amount of potatoes added. The pie-dish can be lined with a little puff paste round the edge, if preferred, or the pudding can be sent to table plain. It should be baked in the oven till the top is nicely browned. It can be served either hot or cold, but, in our opinion, is nicer cold. If the lemons are very fresh and green—if the pudding is sent to table hot—you will often detect the smell of turpentine. If a large quantity of potatoes is added more sugar will be required.

ORANGE CHEESE-CAKE.—Proceed exactly as above, only substituting two oranges for two lemons.

ALMOND CHEESE-CAKES.—Proceed exactly as above, only instead of rubbing the sugar on the outside of lemons add a small quantity of essence of almonds.

APPLE CHEESE-CAKES.—Apple cheese-cakes can be made in a similar manner to apple custard, the only difference being that the mixture is baked till it sets.



CHAPTER XII.

STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES.

There are few articles of diet more wholesome than fruit, in every shape, provided it is fresh. It is a great mistake, however, to suppose that fruit, when too stale to be eaten as it is, is yet good enough for stewing. We often hear, especially in summer weather, of persons being made ill from eating fruit. Probably in every case the injury results, not from eating fruit as fruit, but from eating it when it is too stale to be served as an article of food at all. There is an immense amount of injury done to this country by the importation of rotten plums, more especially from Germany, and it is to be regretted that more stringent laws are not made to prevent the importation of all kinds of food hurtful to health.

We will suppose that in every recipe we are about to give the fruit is at any rate fresh; we do not say ripe, because there are many instances in which fruit not ripe enough to be eaten raw is exceedingly wholesome when stewed properly and sweetened. As an instance we may mention green gooseberries and hard greengages, which, though quite uneatable in their natural state, yet make delicious fruit pies or dishes of stewed fruit. Of all dishes there are few to equal what is called a compote of fruit, and there are probably few sweets more popular than—

COMPOTE OF FRUIT.—A compote of fruit consists of a variety of fresh fruits mixed together in a bowl. Some may be stewed and some served in their natural state, or the whole may be stewed. When a large variety of fruits can be obtained, and are sent to table in an old-fashioned china family bowl, few dishes present a more elegant appearance, especially if you happen to possess an old-fashioned punch ladle, an old silver bowl with a black whalebone handle. Care should be taken to keep the fruit from being broken. The following fruits will mix very well, although, of course, it is impossible always to obtain every variety. We can have strawberries, raspberries, red, white, and black currants, and cherries, as well as peaches, nectarines, and apricots. We can also have stewed apples and stewed pears. Very much, of course, will depend upon the time of year. Those fruits that want stewing should be placed in some hot syrup previously made, and only allowed to stew till tender enough to be eaten. Tinned fruits, especially apricots, can be mixed with fresh fruits, only it is best not to use the syrup in the tin, as it will probably overpower the flavour of the other fruits. The syrup, as far as possible, should be bright and not cloudy. The fruit in the bowl should be mixed, but should not be stirred up. We should endeavour as much as possible to keep the colours distinct. If strawberries or raspberries form part of the compote, the syrup will get red. Should black currants be present, avoid breaking them, as they spoil the appearance of the syrup. In summer the compote of fruits is much improved by the addition of a lump of ice and a glass of good old brandy. Should the compote of fruits, as is often the case, be intended for a garden party, where it will have to stand a long time, if possible get a small bowl, like those in which gold and silver fish are sold in the street for sixpence, and fill this with ice and place it in the middle of the larger bowl containing fruit, otherwise the melted ice will utterly spoil the juice that runs from the fruit, which is sweetened with the syrup and flavoured with the brandy. If much brandy be added, old ladies at garden parties will be found to observe that the juice is the best part of it.

APPLES, STEWED.—Peel and cut out the cores of the apples, and stew them gently in some syrup composed of about half a pound of white sugar and rather more than a pint of water. A small stick of cinnamon, or a few cloves, and a strip of lemon-peel can be added to the syrup, but should be taken out when finished. The apples should be stewed till they are tender, but must not be broken. The syrup in which the apples are stewed should of course be served with them. This syrup can be coloured slightly with a few drops of cochineal, but should not be coloured more than very slightly. The syrup looks a great deal better if it is clear and bright. It can be strained and clarified. Apples are very nice stewed in white French wine, such as Chablis or Graves.

STEWED PEARS.—Pears known as cooking pears take a long time to stew. They should be peeled and the cores removed, and then stewed very gently in a syrup composed of half a pound of sugar to about a pint and a half of water; add a few cloves to the syrup, say two cloves to each pear. The pears will probably take from two to three hours to stew before they are tender. When tender add a glass of port wine and a little cochineal. If the pears are stewed, like they are abroad, in claret, add cinnamon instead of the cloves.

STEWED RHUBARB.—Stewed rhubarb is of two kinds. When it first comes into season it is small, tender, and of a bright red colour, and when stewed makes a very pretty dish. The red rhubarb should be cut into little pieces about two inches long. Very little water will be required, as the fruit contains a great deal of water in itself. The amount of sugar added depends entirely upon taste. The stewed rhubarb should be sent to table unbroken, and floating in a bright red juice.

When rhubarb is old and green it is best served more like a puree, or mashed. Very old rhubarb is often stringy, and can with advantage be rubbed through a wire sieve. It is no use attempting to colour old rhubarb red, but you can improve its colour by the addition of a very little spinach extract. A few strips of lemon-peel can be stewed with old rhubarb, but should never be added to young red rhubarb.

GOOSEBERRIES, STEWED.—Young green gooseberries stewed, strange to say, require less sugar than ripe gooseberries. It is best to stew the fruit first, and add the sugar afterwards. The amount of sugar varies very much with the quality of the gooseberries.

PRUNES, STEWED.—The prunes should be washed before they are stewed. They will not take more than half an hour to stew, and a strip of lemon-peel should be placed in the juice. Stewed prunes are much improved by the addition of a little port wine.

PLUMS, STEWED.—Stewed plums, such as black, ordinary, or greengages, or indeed any kind of stone fruit, can be stewed in syrup, and have this advantage—plums can be used this way which could not be eaten at all if they were raw. These fruits are much nicer cold than hot. In many cases, in stewing stone fruit (and this applies particularly to peaches, apricots, and nectarines), the stones should be removed and cracked and the kernels added to the fruit.

CHERRIES, STEWED.—Large white-heart cherries form a very delicate dish when stewed. Very little water should be added, and the syrup should be kept as white as possible, and, if necessary, strained. Stew the cherries till they are tender, but do not let them break. Colour the syrup with a few drops of cochineal, and add a glass of maraschino.

ICES.—Ices are too often regarded as expensive luxuries, and show how completely custom rules the majority of our housekeepers. There are many houses where the dinner may consist daily of soup, fish, entrees, joint, game, and wine, and yet, were we to suggest a course of ices, the worthy housekeeper would hesitate on the ground of extravagance. It is difficult to argue with persons whose definition of economy is what they have always been accustomed to since they were children, and whose definition of extravagance is anything new. The fact remains, however, that there is many a worthy signor who sells ices in the streets at a penny each, and manages to make a living out of the profit not only for himself, but for his signora as well. Under these circumstances, the manufacture of these "extravagances" is worthy of inquiry. Ices can be made at home very cheaply with an ice machine, which can now be obtained at a, comparatively speaking, small cost. With a machine there is absolutely no trouble, and directions will be given with each machine, so that any details here, which vary with the machine, will be useless. Ices can be made at home without a machine with a little trouble, and, to explain how to do this, it is necessary to explain the theory of ice-making, which is exceedingly simple. We will not allude to machines dependent on freezing-powders, but to those which rely for their cold simply on ice and salt mixed. We will suppose we want a lemon-water ice, i.e., we have made some very strong and sweet lemonade, and we want to freeze it. It is well known that water will freeze at a certain temperature, called freezing-point. By mixing chopped ice and salt and a very little water together, a far greater degree of cold can be immediately produced, viz., a thermometer would stand at 32 degrees below freezing-point were it to be plunged into this mixture. An ice machine is a metal pail placed in another pail much larger than itself. The "sweet lemonade" is placed in the middle pail, and chopped ice and salt placed outside it. The proportion of ice to salt should be double the weight of the former to the latter. It is now obvious that if we have filled two pails, the one with "the sweet lemonade," and the other with the ice and salt, very soon our lemonade will be a solid block of ice. To prevent this it must be constantly stirred, and, as the lemonade would of course freeze first against the sides of the pail, these sides must be constantly scraped. Inside the inner pail, consequently, there is a stirrer, which, by means of a handle, continually scrapes the side of the pail. It is obvious that if the stirrer is fixed, and the pail itself made to revolve, that is the same as if the pail were fixed and the stirrer made to revolve. To make lemon-water ice, therefore, place the lemonade in the inner pail, surrounded with chopped ice and salt, two parts of the former to one of the latter, turn the handle, and in a few minutes the ice is made. Now, suppose you have not got a machine, proceed as follows: Take an empty, clean, round coffee-tin (the larger the better). [We mention coffee-tin as the most probable one to be in the house, but any round tin will do.] Get a clean piece of wood, the same width as the inside diameter of the tin, only it must be a great deal longer. We will suppose the tin rather more than a foot deep and five inches in diameter. Our piece of wood, which should be clean and smooth, must be nearly five inches wide, say a quarter of an inch thick, and about two feet long. Next get a small tub, say nine inches deep, place the round tin in the middle, with the sweet lemonade inside; next place the piece of wood upright in the tin, so that the wood touches the bottom. Next surround the tin with chopped ice and salt up to the edge of the tub, fill it as high as you can, and then cover it round with a blanket, i.e., cover the ice and salt. Now get someone to hold the wooden board steady; take the tin in your two hands, and turn it round and round, first one way and then another. In a very short time you will find the tin to contain lemon-water ice. The following hints, rather than recipes, for making ices, i.e., for making the liquid, which must be frozen as directed above, are given, not because they are the best recipes, but because cream, which is the basis of all first-class ices, is often too expensive to be used constantly. Of course, real cream is far superior to any substitute.

ICE CREAM, CHEAP.—Make a custard (see CUSTARD) with half a pint of milk, the yolks of two eggs, and a tablespoonful of Swiss milk and some sugar. As soon as it gets a little thick, stir it till it is nearly cold, then add some essence of vanilla or almonds, or a wineglassful of noyeau, or any flavouring wished, and freeze.

ICES FROM FRESH FRUITS.—Take half a pound of fresh strawberries or raspberries, add half that weight of sugar, pound thoroughly, rub through a sieve, and mix with this thick juice, rubbed through, half a pint of the mixture made for ice cream (see ICE CREAM, CHEAP), only, of course, without any flavouring such as vanilla, etc. Mix thoroughly, and freeze.

N.B.—A few red currants should be mixed with the raspberries. Should the colour be poor, brighten it up before freezing with a little cochineal.

ICES FROM JAM.—Mix a quarter of a pound of any jam with half a pint of the mixture made for ice cream (see ICE CREAM, CHEAP), without any flavouring such as vanilla. Rub all through a fine sieve, and freeze. Cochineal will give additional colour to red jams; spinach extract to green jams; and a very little turmeric, or yellow vegetable colouring, to yellow jams. A small pinch of turmeric can be boiled in the milk.

ICE, LEMON-WATER.—Rub six lumps of sugar on the rind of six lemons, add this and the juice of six lemons to a pint of fairly sweet syrup. The amount of sugar is a matter of taste. Strain and freeze. Some persons add a few drops of dilute sulphuric acid.

ICE, ORANGE-WATER.—Act exactly as in lemon-water, using oranges instead of lemons, and syrup containing less sugar.

ICE, WATER FRUIT.—All sorts of water fruit ices can be made by mixing half a pint of juice, such as currant-juice, with twice that quantity of syrup, and freezing. Grated ripe pine-apple, pounded and bruised, ripe cherries and greengages, strawberry-juice, raspberry-juice, can be mixed with syrup and frozen. Sometimes a little lemon-juice can be added with advantage, and in the case of cherry ice and greengage ice a little noyeau added is an improvement.



CHAPTER XIII.

CAKES AND BREAD.

In vegetarian cookery there is no difference, as far as cake-making is concerned, between it and ordinary cookery. In making cakes we will confine our attention chiefly to general principles which, if once known, render cake-making of every description comparatively easy work. Those who wish for detailed recipes for making almost every kind of cake known will find all that they require on a large scale in "Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery," and also everything necessary on a smaller scale in "Cassell's Shilling Cookery," which has already reached its hundred-thousandth edition.

Cakes may be divided into two classes—those that contain fruit and those that do not. Plum cakes can be made very rich indeed, like a wedding cake, or so plain that it can scarcely be distinguished from a loaf of bread with a few currants in it. Again, cakes that contain no fruit can, at the same time, be made exceedingly rich, the richness chiefly depending upon the amount of butter and eggs that are used. We will first give a few directions with regard to making what may be termed plain cakes, i.e., cakes that contain no fruit at all. Perhaps the best model we can give to illustrate the general principles will be that of a pound cake. The recipe is a very easy one to recollect, as a pound cake means one that is made from a pound of butter, a pound of sugar, a pound of eggs, and a pound of flour. There is one addition, however, which the good plain cook will probably not be up to, and which, so far as flavour is concerned, makes all the difference between Francatelli and "Jemima Ann"—we must rub some of the lumps of sugar on the outsides of either two oranges or two lemons. It is also a great improvement to add a small glass of brandy, and in every kind of cake we must add a pinch of salt.

In making cakes it is always necessary to be careful about the butter. It is best to put the butter in cold water before it is used, and, if salt butter, it should be washed in several waters to extract the salt. The next thing necessary is to beat the butter to a cream. To do this it must be worked about in a basin with a wooden spoon. The basin should be a strong one, and a wooden spoon is far preferable to a metal one. You simply beat the butter and spread it against the sides of the basin and knock it about till it loses its consistency. You cannot beat the butter to the consistency of ordinary cream, but to a state more resembling Devonshire clotted cream. Of course, when it is like this it is much more easily mixed with the other ingredients. In making a pound cake we should first of all beat the butter to a cream and then add flour, sugar, and eggs gradually. When the whole is thoroughly well mixed together, we must bake it in a tin, or mould, or hoop. We need say nothing about tins or moulds, but will confine ourselves to giving directions how to bake a cake in a hoop, for, as a rule, ordinary English cooks do not understand how to use them.

One great advantage of using a hoop is that when the cake is baked there is no fear of breaking it in turning it out. A very simple hoop can be made with an ordinary slip of tin, say six inches wide; as the tin will lap over, the cake can be made any size round you wish. It is a good plan to fasten a piece of copper wire round the outside of the tin. This can be twisted, and when the cake is baked and has got cold can be untwisted, and the tin will then open of its own accord. The tin must be lined with buttered paper, and buttered paper must be placed on a flat piece of tin at the bottom. When an "amateur hoop" is used like we have described, care must be taken that the cake does not come out at the bottom. The cake, especially when it is made with beaten-up eggs, like sponge cake, will rise, and unless precautions are taken the tin will rise with it, and the unset portion of the cake break loose round the edge at the bottom. To prevent this the tin must be kept down with a weight at the top. In a proper hoop made for the purpose there are appliances for fastening the hoop together itself and also for keeping it in its place, but if we use a strip of tin we must place something across the tin on the top and then put on a heavy weight. When this is done, you must remember to allow room for the cake to rise. A pound cake such as we have described can be made into a rich fruit cake by adding stoned raisins, currants, chopped candied peel, sultana raisins, or, better still, dried cherries. In making ordinary cakes, when currants are used, they should be first washed and then dried; if you use damp currants the cake will probably be heavy.

With regard to the flour, it is cheapest in the end to use the best quality, and the flour should be dried and sifted. If you weigh the flour remember to dry and sift it before you weigh it, and not after. In using sugar get the best loaf; this should also be pounded and sifted.

In using eggs, of course each egg should be broken separately. Very often it is necessary to separate the yolks from the whites. This requires some little skill; you are less likely to break the yolk when you crack the egg boldly. Put the yolk from one half egg-shell into the other half, spilling as much of the white as you can. You will soon get the yolks separate. Next, remember before mixing the eggs to remove the thread or string from them. When the whites are beaten separately, you must whisk them till they become a solid froth; no liquid should remain at the bottom of the basin. The yolks should not be broken till they are wanted.

Lemon-peel is often used in making cakes, and in chopping it a little powdered sugar is a great assistance in preventing the peel sticking together. Remember only to use the yellow part, not the white. The white part gives the cake a bitter flavour.

Sometimes milk or cream is used in cake-making. If Swiss milk is used as a substitute, remember that less sugar will be required.

When pounded almonds are used for cakes, the almonds must be blanched by being thrown, first into boiling water, and then into cold water. In pounding them, add a little rose-water or orange-flower water, or the white of an egg, to prevent the almonds getting oily.

Nearly all plain cakes, where only a few eggs are used, will be made lighter by the addition of a little baking-powder. A very good baking-powder is made by mixing an ounce of tartaric acid with an ounce and a half of bicarbonate of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. The baking powder should be kept very dry.

A very nice way of making home-made cakes is to use some dough, which can be procured from the baker's. Suppose you have a quartern of dough, put it in a basin, cover it over with a cloth, and put it in front of the fire to rise, then spread it on a floured pastry-board, slice it up, and work in half a pound of fresh butter, half a pound of moist sugar, six eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, and half an ounce of caraway seeds. When all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, place them in two or more well-buttered tins or hoops, and let them stand in front of the fire a little while before they are placed in the oven. Cakes can be flavoured with a variety of spices, such as cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, or powdered coriander seeds. These last are always used to give a special flavour to hot cross buns.

BREAD.—Home-made bread is not so much used now as it was years back. Most housekeepers have found by experience that it is a waste both of time and money. There are very few houses among the middle classes which possess an oven capable of competing with any chance of success with a baker's oven. There are, however, many vegetarians who believe in what is called whole-meal bread. A good deal of the whole-meal bread sold as such has been found to be adulterated with substances very unwholesome to ordinary stomachs. We may mention saw-dust as one of the ingredients used for the purpose. Again, if you attempt to make whole-meal bread into loaves, you will find great difficulty in baking the loaves. This whole-meal is a very slow conductor of heat, and the result will probably be that the outside of the loaf will be very hard while the inside will be too underdone to be eaten. Consequently, should you wish to have home-made whole-meal bread, it is far best to bake it in the form of a tea-cake or flat-cake. We cannot do better, in conclusion, than quote what Sir Henry Thompson says on this subject:—"The following recipe," he says, "will be found successful, probably, after a trial or two, in producing excellent, light, friable, and most palatable bread: To two pounds of coarsely ground or crushed whole-meal, add half a pound of fine flour and a sufficient quantity of baking powder and salt; when these are well mixed, rub in two ounces of butter, and make into dough with half milk and water, or with all milk if preferred. Make rapidly into flat cakes like 'tea-cakes,' and bake without delay in a quick oven, leaving them afterwards to finish thoroughly at a lower temperature. The butter and milk supply fatty matters, in which the wheat is somewhat deficient; all the saline and mineral matters of the husk are retained; and thus a more nutritive form of bread cannot be made. Moreover, it retains the natural flavour of the wheat, in place of the insipidity which is characteristic of fine flour, although it is indisputable that bread produced from the latter, especially in Paris and Vienna, is unrivalled for delicacy, texture, and colour. Whole meal may be bought; but mills are now cheaply made for home use, and wheat may be ground to any degree of coarseness desired."



CHAPTER XIV.

PIES AND PUDDINGS.

In vegetarian cookery, as a rule, pies and puddings are made in the same way as in ordinary cookery, with the exception that we cannot use lard or dripping in making our pastry. Nor are we allowed to use suet in making crust for puddings. It would have been quite impossible to have given even one quarter of the recipes for the pies and puddings known, and we must refer those who wish for information on this subject to "Cassell's Shilling Cookery," where will be found a very complete list, but which would have occupied the whole of the space which we have devoted to recipes where vegetarian cookery, as a rule, differs from the ordinary.

We will, on the present occasion, confine our attention to the two points we have mentioned, viz., how to make pastry without lard or dripping, and pudding crust without suet. The first of these two points causes no difficulty whatever, as the best pastry, especially that known as puff paste, is invariably made with butter only as the fatty element; but there is one point we must not overlook.

Vegetarians are divided into two classes: those who use the animal products—butter, milk, cream, and eggs—and those who do not. This latter class contains, probably, the most respected members of the vegetarian body, as it will always be found that there is an involuntary homage paid by all men to consistency. How then are strict vegetarians to make pastry, butter being classed with the forbidden fruit? We fear we cannot tell them how to make good puff paste; but "Necessity is the mother of invention," and naturally olive oil must supply the place of butter.

PASTRY WITHOUT BUTTER.—We will describe how to make a small quantity, which is always best when we make experiments. Take half a pound of the best Vienna flour, and mix with it, while dry, about a salt-spoonful of baking-powder. Now add about a tablespoonful of olive oil, and work the oil and flour together with the fingers exactly as you work a small piece of butter into the flour at the commencement of making puff paste. Next add sufficient water to make the whole into an elastic paste; roll it out and let it set between two tins containing ice, similar to the method used in making high-class pastry.

We have mentioned a tablespoonful of oil, but if ice is used more oil may be added.

We all know that oil will freeze at a much lower temperature than water, consequently the minute particles of oil become partially solid. Now take the paste, roll it out, and give it three turns; roll it out again, give it three more turns, and put it back in the ice; let it stand ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, and repeat this process three times. Be careful to flour the pastry each time before it is turned. By this means we get the pastry in thin layers, with minute air bubbles between them, and this will cause the pastry to rise. If you are making a pie, roll out the pastry the last time, cover the pie, and put it in the oven immediately, while the pastry is cold. Do not let the pastry stand, unless it be in a very cold place.

This pastry we have just described, made with oil, can also be utilised for puddings, in which latter case we would recommend the addition of a little more baking-powder, and to every pound of flour add two tablespoonfuls of very fine bread-crumbs. These must be dry, and rubbed through a fine sieve.

PASTRY WITH BUTTER.—Good puff paste is made by taking equal quantities of butter and flour—say a pound of each—the yolk of one egg, a pinch of salt, while the water used is acidulated with lemon-juice. For the manipulation of this pastry we must refer those who do not know how to make it to other cookery books, or to the shilling one above mentioned. In making ordinary paste we must use less butter; and when we use considerably less butter, if we wish the pastry light, we shall require baking-powder. The quantity depends very much upon the quality. Many persons make their own baking-powder, and we cannot recommend any better than the recipe given in the last chapter, viz., an ounce of tartaric acid, an ounce and a half of bicarbonate of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. A great deal, too, depends upon the quality of the flour. Vienna flour is much more expensive than ordinary flour, but incomparably superior. What limit we can assign to the quantity of butter used it is impossible to say. A quarter of a pound of butter to a pound of flour, and a teaspoonful of baking-powder, will make a fair crust. When less butter is used the result is not altogether satisfactory.

PUDDINGS.—We next come to the very large class of puddings in which suet is used. The ordinary plum pudding is a case in point. The best substitute for suet, of course, is butter or oil; a plum pudding, however, made without suet, would undoubtedly be heavy, and, to avoid this, we must use butter, bread-crumbs, and baking-powder. It would be impossible to give any exact quantity, as so much depends upon the other ingredients. Some people use bread-crumbs only in making plum pudding, and no flour, in which case, of course, a very considerable number of eggs must be used or else the pudding will break to pieces. In the case, however, of oil being used as a substitute for butter, it is of the utmost importance that the oil be pure and fresh. We here have to overcome a deeply-rooted English prejudice. Pure oil is absolutely tasteless, and it has often been remarked by high-class authorities that really pure butter ought to be the same. We fear, however, that purity in food is the exception rather than the rule, as at no period of this country's history has the crime of adulteration been so rampant as in the present day.

Adulteration has been said to be another form of competition. Too often adulteration is a deliberate form of robbery. Steps have been taken in recent years to put a stop to this universal system of fraud, more especially in connection with butter. Were more Acts passed similar to the "Margarine Act" we believe that this country would be richer and happier, and without doubt more healthy.

In that large class of puddings known as custard pudding, cabinet pudding, there is no difference whatever in vegetarian cookery. It would be quite impossible to make any of these puddings without eggs, and when eggs are used we may take for granted that butter is allowed also.

We have, throughout, called particular attention to the importance of appearances. In the case of all puddings made with eggs and baked in a dish, it is a very great improvement to reserve one or two whites of egg, and to beat these to a stiff froth, with a little white powdered sugar. When the pudding is baked, cover it with this snow-white froth, and let it set by placing it in a slack oven for two or three minutes. Whether the pudding is served hot or cold, the result is the same. An otherwise plain and somewhat common-looking dish is transformed into an elegant one, the only extra expense being a little trouble.

We may sum up our instructions to cooks in the words: "Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy might."



INDEX.

Allemande Sauce, 44

Almond Cheesecakes, 170 Fritters, 119 Sauce, 44 Sauce, Clear, 45 Soup, 23

Apple Cheesecakes, 170 Custard, 168 Fritters, 118 Jam, 161 Jelly, 161 Sauce, 45 Soup, 24

Apples, Stewed, 172

Apricot Fritters, 119 Jam, 164 Jelly, 163

Apricots Tinned, 155 with Cream, 156

Aromatic Herbs, 32

Arrowroot Sauce, 45

Artichokes, French, 137 a la Provencale, 137 Boiled, 137 Fried, 137 Salad, 102

Artichoke, Jerusalem, 137 Fried, 138 Mashed, 138 Sauce, 45 Soup, 24

Asparagus and Eggs, 85 Boiled, 139 Salad, 101 Sauce, 45 Soup, 24 Tinned, 153

Ayoli, 115

Baking-Powder, 180

Banana Fritters, 119

Barley and Rice Porridge, 75 Soup, 25

Batter for Fritters, 116

Beans, Broad, 139 a la Bourgeoise, 139 a la Poulette, 139 Mashed, 139 Salad, 103 Soup, 27

Beans, French, 139 Pudding, 140 Salad, 102 Soup, 27 Tinned, 154

Beans, Haricot, 131 Salad, 103 Soup, Red, 26 Soup, White, 26

Beetroot Salad, 102 Soup, 26

Beurre Noir, 48

Blackberry Jam, 164 Jelly, 158

Black Butter, 48 and Eggs, 86

Black Currant Jam, 164 Jelly, 160 Sauce, 45

Bread, 180 and Milk, 75 Potato, 129 Sauce, 45 Whole-Meal, 180

Brocoli, 141 Greens, 141

Brown Mushroom Sauce, 55 Onion Sauce, 55

Brown Roux, 22 Thickening, 22

Brussels Sprouts, 141 Tinned, 154

Butter, Black, 48 Maitre d'hotel, 53 Melted, 48 Oiled, 48 Sauce, 46

Cabbage, 142 and Cream, 143 and Rice, 63 large White, 142 Red, 143 Soup, 27

Cakes, 177 Parsnip, 147 Pound, 179

Caper Sauce, 49

Carrot Jam, 164 Sauce, 49 Soup, 27

Carrots, Boiled, 143 Fried, 144 Mashed, 144 Tinned, 154

Cauliflower and Tomato Sauce, 145 au gratin, 144 Boiled, 144 Salad, 104 Sauce, 49 Soup, 28

Casseroles, 64

Celery and Eggs, 85 Salad, 103 Sauce, 49 Soup, 29 Stewed, 145

Cheesecakes, 165-168 Almond, 170 Apple, 170 from Curds, 169 Orange, 170 Potato, 169

Cheese and Eggs, 89 and Fried Bread, 113 and Rice, 63 Devilled, 114 Fritters, 117

Cheese Ramequins, 114 Sandwiches, 107 Savoury, 113 Souffle, 92 Soup, 29 Stewed, 114 Straws, 114 Toasted, 114

Cherry Sauce, 49 Soup, 29

Cherries, Stewed, 174

Chestnut Sauce, 49 Soup, 30

Chestnuts and Macaroni, 72

Chocolate Cream, 166 Fritters, 119

Chutney Sauce, 53

Cinnamon Sauce, 49

Clear Soup, 30

Cocoanut Sauce, 49 Soup, 31

Coffee Cream, 166 Fritters, 119

Cottage Soup, 30

Cream and Macaroni, 73 Cheese Sandwiches, 107 Chocolate, 166 Coffee, 166 Fritters, 120 Lemon, 166 Maraschino, 166 Orange, 166 Pistachio, 167 Strawberry, 167 Vanilla, 166

Creams, 165

Croquettes, Potato, 127 Rice, 65

Cucumber and Eggs, 88 Salad, 102 Sauce, 49

Currant Sauce, Black, 50 Red, 50 Black, Jam, 164 Black, Jelly, 160 Red, Jam, 164 Red, Jelly, 161

Curried Eggs, 82 Lentils, 136 Rice 63 Vegetables, 151

Curry Sauce, 50

Custard, Apple, 168 Cheap, 168 Fritters, 119

Custards, 167

Cutlets, Potato, 127

Damson Jam, 164 Jelly, 162

Dandelion Salad, 103

Devilled Cheese, 114 Eggs, 82

Dutch Sauce, 51 Green, 51

Egg Balls, 83 Forcemeat, 83 Salad, 99 Sandwiches, 106 Sauce, 51 Toast, 85

Eggs, 78 a la bonne femme, 8 a la Dauphine, 85 a la tripe, 83 and Asparagus, 85 Black Butter, 86 Celery, 85 Cheese, 89 Cucumber, 88 Garlic, 86 Mushrooms, 86 Onions, 87 Potatoes, 87 Rice, 66 Sauce Robert, 87 Sorrel, 87 Spinach, 85 Turnip-tops, 85 au gratin, 84 Boiled, 78 Hard, 81 Broiled, 87 Buttered, 88 Curried, 82 Devilled, 82 Fried, 80 in Sunshine, 88 Little, 89 Poached, 81 Scrambled, 88 To Break, 80

Endive, 145 Salad, 100 Soup, 31

English Salad, 97

Extract of Spinach, 25

Fennel Sauce, 51

Flageolets, 133 Tinned, 154

Fond d'Artichokes, 155

Forcemeat of Egg, 83 of Mushroom, 110

Frangipane Fritters, 120

French Beans, 139 Bean Salad, 102 Soup, 27 Pudding, 140 Salad, 97

Fritters, 116 Almond, 119 Apple, 118 Apricot, 119 Banana, 119 Batter for, 116 Cheese, 117 Chocolate, 119 Coffee, 119 Cream, 120 Custard, 119 Frangipane, 120 Game, 117 German, 121 Ginger and Rice, 121 Hominy, 117 Mushroom, 116 Orange, 120 Pine Apple, 120 Peach, 120 Potato, 120 Rice, 121 Sage and Onion, 118 Spinach, 118 Sweet, 118 Tomato, 117 Vanilla, 119

Fruit, Compote of, 171 Soup, 31 Stewed, 171

Fruits, Bottled, 157 Tinned, 155

Frumenty, 76

Game Fritters, 117

Garlic and Eggs, 86

Garnish of Eggs, 89

German Fritters, 121 Salad, 100 Sauce, 51

Ginger Sauce, 52

Gooseberry Sauce, 52

Gooseberries, Stewed, 173

Green Bean Soup, 27 Dutch Sauce, 51 Mayonnaise Sauce, 54 Pea Soup, Dried, 37 Fresh, 38

Hare Soup, 32 Haricot Beans, 131 Bean Salad, 103 Soup, Red, 26 White, 26

Herbaceous Mixture, 32

Herbs, Aromatic, 32

Hominy, 76 Fried, 76 Fritters, 117

Hop Salad, 104

Horseradish Sauce, 52

Hotch Potch, 32

Ice Cream, 176 Lemon Water, 176 Orange Water, 176 Water Fruit, 177

Ices, 174 from Fresh Fruit, 176 from Jams, 176

Indian Pickle Sauce, 53 Sandwiches, 106

Italian Salad, 104 Sauce, 53

Jam Apple, 161 Apricot, 164 Blackberry, 164 Black Currant, 164 Carrot, 164 Damson, 164 Gooseberry, 164 Greengage, 164 Plum, 164 Raspberry, 164 Red Currant, 164 Rhubarb, 164 Strawberry, 164 Vegetable Marrow, 164

Jams, 163

Jardiniere Soup, 33

Jellies, 158

Jelly, Apple, 161 Apricot, 163 Blackberry, 158 Black Currant, 160 Damson, 162 Lemon, 159 Mulberry, 163 Orange, 160 Pine Apple, 162 Raspberry, 161 Red Currant, 161

Julienne Soup, 33

Kale, Scotch, 148 Sea, 148

Leek Soup, 33

Leeks, Stewed, 145 Welsh Porridge, 146

Lemon Cream, 166 Jelly, 159 Water, Ice, 176

Lentil Porridge, 75 Puree a la Soubise, 34 Soup, 33

Lentils, 135 a la a Provencale, 136 Boiled, 136 Curried, 136

Lettuce Salad, 97

Lettuces, Stewed, 146 with Peas, 146

Macaroni, 67 a la Reine, 69 and Cheese, 68 Chestnuts, 72 Cream, 73 Eggs, 69 Tomatoes, 72 as an Ornament, 70 au gratin, 69 Italian Fashion, 68 Nudels, 71 Savoury, 72 Scolloped, 70 Soup, Clear, 34 Soup, Thick, 34 Timbale of, 70

Macedoines, 155

Maitre d'hotel Sauce, 53 Butter, 53

Mango Chutney Sauce, 53

Maraschino Cream, 166

Mayonnaise Salad, 98 Sauce, 53 Sauce, Green, 54

Melon Salad, 105

Milk Porridge, 75 Soup, 35 Toast, 77

Mint Sauce, 54

Mock Turtle Soup, 35

Mulberry Jelly, 163

Mulligatawny Soup, 35

Mushroom, Essence of, 44 Forcemeat, 110 Fritters, 116 Pie, 110 Cold, 110 Pudding, 111 Puree of, 55 Sandwiches, 106 Sauce, 54 Brown, 55

Mushrooms, 108 a la Bordelaise, 110 a la Provencale, 110 and Eggs, 86 au gratin, 109 Fried, 109 Plain, 108

Mustard Sauce, 55

Mustard and Cress, 104 Sandwiches, 106

Nalesnikis, 116

Nettles, To Boil, 151

Oatmeal Porridge, 73

Oiled Butter, 48

Omelet au Kirsch, 95 au Rhum, 95 Cheese, 92 Fine Herbs, 92 Onion, 92 Plain, 91 Potato, 92 Potato, Sweet, 92 Souffle, 93 Sweet, 94 Vegetable, 95 with Jam, 94

Omelets, 89

Onion Omelet, 92 Salad, 104 Sauce, 55 Brown, 55 Soup, 35 Brown, 36

Onions and Eggs, 87 Baked, 146 Plain, 146 Stewed, 147 Stuffed, 115

Orange Cheesecakes, 170 Cream, 166 Fritters, 120 Jelly, 160 Sauce, 56 Water Ice, 176

Ox-tail Soup, 36

Palestine Soup, 24

Pancakes, Polish, 116

Parsley Sauce, 56 To Blanch, 26

Parsnip Cake, 147 Soup, 36

Parsnips, 147 Fried, 147 Mashed, 147

Paste for Pies, 184. Puddings, 185. without Butter, 183.

Peach Fritters, 120

Peaches, Tinned, 156

Peaches with Cream, 156

Pea Soup, Dried Green, 37 Split Peas, 37 Fresh Green, 38

Peas, Boiled, 148 Brose, 134 Dried, 133 Dried Green with Cream, 135 Dried whole Green, 134 Green, 148 Pudding, 134 Stewed, 148 Tinned, 153

Pear Soup, 37

Pears, Stewed, 173 Tinned, 156

Pie, Mushroom, 110 Mushroom, Cold, 111 Potato, 112 Pumpkin, 113

Pies and Puddings, General, 183 Paste for, 184.

Pine Apple Fritters, 120 Ice, 177 Jelly, 162 Sauce, 56 Tinned, 156

Piroski Sernikis, 116

Pistachio Cream, 167

Plum Jam, 164 Sauce, 56

Plums, Stewed, 174

Polenta, 115

Poached Eggs, 81

Poivrade Sauce, 57

Polish Pancakes, 116

Porridge, Barley and Rice, 75 Milk, 75 Lentil, 75 Oatmeal, 73 Sago, 77 Whole Meal, 75

Potato Balls, 127 Biscuits, 129 Border, 128 Bread, 129 Cake, 129 Cheese, 130 Cheesecake, 169 Chips, 126 Croquettes, 127 Fritters, 120 Omelet, 92 Omelet, Sweet, 92 Ribbon, 126 Salad, 101 Soup, 38

Potatoes and Eggs, 87 a la Barigoule, 130 a la Lyonnaise, 131 a la Maitre d'hotel, 127 a la Provencale, 131 Baked, 125 Boiled, 123 Broiled, 131 Fried, 126 Mashed, 125 New, 127 Saute, 126 Steamed, 124

Pound Cake, 179

Prune Sauce, 57

Prunes, Stewed, 173

Pudding, Cheese, 114 French Bean, 140 Mushroom, 111 Peas, 134 Pumpkin, 113

Puddings, 182

Pumpkin a la Parmesane, 115 Pie, 113 Pudding, 113 Soup, 39

Puree, Endive, 31 Lentils, 34 Mushroom, 55 of Beans, Red, 26, of Beans, White, 26 of Chestnuts, 30 Sorrel, 58

Rarebit, Welsh, 115

Raspberry Ice, 176 Jam, 164 Jelly, 161 Sauce, 57

Ramequins, Cheese, 114

Ratafia Sauce, 57

Ravigotte Sauce, 57

Red Currant Jam, 164 Jelly, 161 Sauce, 50

Red Haricot Bean Soup, 26

Rhubarb Soup, 39 Stewed, 173

Rice, 60 and Barley Porridge, 75 and Cabbage, 63 and Cheese, 63 and Eggs, 66 and Ginger Fritters, 121 and Tomatoes, 66 Boiled, 61 Border, 64 Croquettes, 65 Curried, 63 Fritters, 121 Soup, 39 Soup a la Royale, 39

Risotto, 62

Robert Sauce, 58

Roux, Brown, 22 White, 22

Sage and Onion Fritters, 118

Sago Porridge, 77 Soup, 40

Salad, Artichoke, 102 Asparagus, 101 Bean, Broad, 103 Bean, Haricot, 103 Beetroot, 102 Cauliflower, 104 Celery, 103 Cucumber, 102 Dandelion, 103 Egg, 99 Endive, 100 English, 97 French, 97 French Beans, 102 German, 100 Hop, 104 Italian, 104 Mayonnaise, 98 Melon, 105 Mixed, 98 Mustard and Cress, 104 Onion, 104 Potato, 101 Salsify, 101 Sweet, 105 Tomato, 99 Water-cress, 103

Salads, 96

Salsify, Boiled, 151 Salad, 101

Sandwiches, 105 Cheese, 107 Cream Cheese, 107 Egg, 106 Indian, 106 Mushroom, 106 Mustard and Cress, 106 Tomato, 105

Sauce, Allemande, 44 Almond, 44 Almond, Clear, 45 Apple, 45 Arrowroot, 45 Artichoke, 45 Asparagus, 45 Bread, 45 Butter, 46 Butter, Black, 48 Butter, Oiled, 48 Caper, 49 Carrot, 49 Cauliflower, 49 Celery, 49 Cherry, 49 Chestnut, 49 Cinnamon, 49 Cocoa-nut, 49 Cucumber, 49 Currant, Black, 50 Currant, Red, 50 Curry, 50 Dutch, 51 Green, 51 Egg, 51 Fennel, 51 German Sweet, 51 Ginger, 52 Gooseberry, 52 Horseradish, 52 Indian Pickle, 53 Italian, 53 Maitre d'hotel, 53 Mango Chutney, 53 Mayonnaise, 53 Green, 54 Mint, 54 Mushroom, 54 Brown, 55 Puree, 55 Mustard, 55 Onion, 55 Brown, 55 Orange Cream, 56 Parsley, 56 Pine Apple, 56 Plum, 56 Poivrade, 57 Prune, 57 Radish, 57 Raspberry, 57 Ratafia, 57 Ravigotte, 57 Robert, 58 Sorrel, 58 Soubise, 58 Sweet, 58 Tarragon, 58 Tartar, 58 Tomato, 59 Truffle, 59 Vanilla, 59 White, 59

Sauces, 44

Savoury Rice, 66

Scotch Broth, 40 Kale, 148

Sea Kale, 148 Soup, 40

Sorrel Sauce, 58 Soup, 40

Soubise Sauce, 58

Souffle, Cheese, 92 Omelet, 93

Soup, Almond, 23 Apple, 24 Artichoke, 24 Asparagus, 24 Barley, 25 Bean, French, 27 Green, 27 Haricot, Red, 26 Haricot, White 26 Beetroot, 26 Cabbage, 27 Carrot, 27 Cauliflower, 28 Celery, 29 Cheese, 29 Cherry, 29 Chestnut, 30 Clear, 30 Cocoanut, 31 Cottage, 30 Endive, 31 Fruit, 31 Green Pea, Dried, 37 Fresh, 38 Hare, 32 Hotch Potch, 32 Jardiniere, 33 Julienne, 33 Leek, 33 Lentil, 33 Lentil a la Soubise, 34 Macaroni, Clear, 34 Thick, 34 Milk, 35 Mock Turtle, 35 Mulligatawny, 35 Onion, 35 Brown, 36 Ox-tail, 36 Palestine, 24 Parsnip, 36 Pear, 37 Pea, Split, 37 Green, Dried, 37 Fresh, 38 Potato, 38 Pumpkin, 39 Rhubarb, 39 Rice, 39 a la Royale, 39 Sago, 40 Scotch Broth, 40 Sea Kale, 40 Sorrel, 40 Spinach, 41 Tapioca, 41 Tomato, 41 Turnip, 42 Vegetable, 33 Marrow, 42 Vermicelli, 42 White, 42 White, 43

Soups, 23 General Instructions, 17

Sparghetti, 67

Spinach, 149 and Eggs, 85 Extract of, 25 Fritters, 118 Soup, 41 Tinned, 154

Stock, 21

Strawberry Cream, 167 Ice, 176 Jam, 164

Sweet Fritters, 118 Omelet, 94 Salads, 105 Sauce, 58 German, 51

Tagliatelli, 73

Tapioca Soup, 41

Tarragon Sauce, 58

Tartar Sauce, 58

Thickening, Brown, 22 White, 22

Timbale of Macaroni, 70

Toast, Egg, 85 Milk, 77

Tomato Fritters, 117 Pie, 112 Salad, 99 Sandwiches, 105 Sauce, 59 Soup, 41

Tomatoes and Macaroni, 72 and Rice, 66 au Gratin, 111 Baked, 111 Fried, 111 Grilled, 111 Stewed, 111

Truffle Sauce, 59

Turnip Soup, 42 -tops, 151 and Eggs, 85

Turnips, Boiled, 150 Mashed, 150 Ornamental, 150 Tinned, 155

Vanilla Cream, 166 Fritters, 119 Ice, 176 Sauce, 59

Vegetable Curry, 151 Marrow, 149 Soup, 42 Stuffed, 149 Omelet, 95 Soup, 42

Vegetables, Fresh, 137 Preserved, 152 Substantial, 122

Vermicelli Soup, 42 Thick, 42

Water-cress Salad, 103

Welsh Porridge, 146 Rarebit, 115

White Haricot Bean Salad, 103 Soup, 26 Roux, 22 Sauce, 59 Soup, 43 Thickening, 22

Whole-meal Bread, 180 Porridge, 75

Zucchetti Farcis, 115

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Preston—104, Fishergate.

Bristol—33, Corn Street.

Brighton—148, North Street.

Hastings—Robertson Street, and Havelock Road.

THE END