The changes of the reciprocal relations of height between the fluid and solid portions of the earth's surface (changes which, at the same time, determine the outlines of continents, and the greater or lesser submersion of low lands) are to be ascribed to numerous unequally working causes. The most powerful have incontestably been the force of elastic vapors inclosed in the interior of the earth, the sudden change of temperature of certain dense strata,* the unequal secular loss of p 295 heat experienced by the crust and nucleus of the earth, occasioning ridges in the solid surface, local modifications of gravitation,** and, as a consequence of these alterations, in the curvature of a portion of the liquid element.

[footnote] *De la Beche, 'Sections and Views illustrative of Geological Phenomena', 1830, tab. 40; Charles Babbage, 'Observations on the Temple of Serapis at Pozzuoli, near Naples, and on certain Causes which may produce Geological Cycles of great Extent', 1834. "If a stratum of sandstone five miles in thickness should have its temperature raised about 100 degrees, its surface would rise twenty-five feet. Heated beds of clay would, on the contrary, occasion a sinking of the ground by their contraction." See Bischof, 'Wurmelehre des Innern unseres Erdkorpers', s. 303, concerning the calculations for the secular elevation of Sweden, on the supposition of a rise by so small a quantity as 7 degrees in a stratum of about 155,000 feet in thickness, and heated to a state of fusion.

[footnote] **The opinion so implicitly entertained regarding the invariability of the force of gravity at any given point of the earth's surface, has in some degree been controverted by the gradual rise of large portions of the earth's surface. See Bessel, 'Ueber Maas und Gewicht', in Schumacher's 'Jahrbuch fur' 1840, s. 134.

According to the views generally adopted by geognosists in the present day and which are supported by the observation of a series of well-attested facts, no less than by analogy with the most important volcanic phenomena, it would appear that the elevation of continents is actual, and not merely apparent or owing to the configuration of the upper surface of the sea. The merit of having advanced this view beloongs to Leopold von Buch, the narrative of his memorable 'Travels through Norway and Sweden' in 1806 and 1807.*



[footnnote] *Th. ii. (1810), s. 389. See Hallstrom, in 'Kongl. Vetenskaps-Academiens Handlingar' (Stockh.), 1823, p. 30; Lyell in the 'Philos. Trans.' for 1835; Blom (Amtmann in Budskerud), 'Stat. Beschr. von Norwegen',1843, s. 89-116. If not before Von Buch's travels through Scandinavia, at any rate before their publication, Playfair, in 1802, in his illustrations of the Huttonian theory, ¤ 393, and according to Keilhau ('Om Landjardens Stigning in Norge', in the 'Nyt Magazine fur Naturvidenskaberne'), and the Dane Jessen, even before the time of Playfair, had expressed the opinion that it was not the sea which was sinking, but the solid land of Sweden which was rising. Their ideas, however, were wholly unknown to our great geologist, and exerted no influence on 'Norge fremstillet efter dets naturlige og borgerlige Tilstand', Kjobenh., 1763, sought to explain the causes of the changes in the relative levels of the land and sea, basing his views on the early calculations of Celsius, Kalm, and Dalin. He broaches some confused ideas regarding the possibility of an internal growth of rocks, but finally declares himself in favor of an upheaval of the land by earthquakes, "although," he observes, "no such rising was apparent immediately after the earthquake of Egersund, yet the earthquake may have opened the way for other causes producing such an effect."

While the whole coast of Sweden and Finland, from Solvitzborg, on the limits of Northern Scania, past Gefle to Tornea, and from Tornea to Abo, experiences a gradual rise of four feet in a century, the southern part of Sweden is, according to Neilson, undergoing a simultaneous depression.*

[footnote] *See Berzelius, 'Jahrsbericht uber die Fortschritte der Physichen Wiss.', No. 18, s. 686. The islands of Saltholm, opposite to Copenhagen, and Bjornholm, however, rise but very little — Bjornholm scarcely one foot in a century. See Forchhammer, in 'Philos. Magazine', 3d Series, vol. ii., p. 309.

The maximum of this elevating p 296 force appears to be in the north of Lapland, and to diminish gradually to the south toward Calmar and Solvitzborg. Lines marking the ancient level of the sea in pre-historic times are indicated throughout the whole of Norway,* from Cape Lindesnaes to the extremity of the North Cape, by banks of shells identical with those of the present seas, and which have lately been most accurately examined by Bravais during his long winter sojourn at Bosekop.

[footnote] *Keilhan, in 'Nyt Mag. fur Naturvid.', 1832, bd. i., p. 105-254; bd. ii., p. 57; Bravais, 'Surles Lignes d'ancien Niveau de la Mer', 1843, p. 15-40. See, also, Darwin, "on the Parallel Roads of Glen-Roy and Lochaber," in 'Philos. Trans. for' 1839, p. 60.

These banks lie nearly 650 feet above the present mean level of the sea, and reappear, according to Keilhau and Eugene Robert, in a north-northwest direction on the coasts of Spitzbergen, opposite the North Cape. Leopold von Buch, who was the first to draw attention to the high banks of shells at Tromsoe (latitude 69 degrees 40'), has, however, shown that the more ancient elevations on the North Sea appertain to a different class of phenomena, from the regular and gradual retrogressive elevations of the Swedish shores in the Gulf of Bothnia. This latter phenomenon, which is well attested by historical evidence, must not be confounded with the changes in the level of the soil occasioned by earthquakes, as on the shores of Chili and of Cutch, and which have recently given occasion to similar observations in other countries. It has been found that a perceptible sinking resulting from a disturbance of the strata of the upper surface sometimes occurs, corresponding with an elevation elsewhere, as, for instance, in West Greenland, according to Pingel and Graah, in Dalmatia and in Scania.

Since it is highly probable that the oscillatory movements of the soil, and the rising and sinking of the upper surface, were more strongly marked in the early periods of our planet than at present, we shall be less surprised to find in the interior of continents some few portions of the earth's surface lying below the general level of existing seas. Instances of this kind occur in the soda lakes described by General Andreossy, the small bitter lakes in the narrow Isthmus of Suez, the Caspian Sea, the Sea of Tiberias, and especially the Dead Sea.*

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Asie Centrale', t. ii., p. 319-324; t. iii., p. 549-551. The depression of the Dead Sea has been successively determined by the barometrical measurements of Count Berton, by the more careful ones of Russegger, and by the trigonometrical survey of Lieutenant Symond, of the Royal Navy, who states that the difference of level between the surface of the Dead Sea and the highest houses of Jaffa is about 1605 feet. Mr. Alderson, who communicated this result to the Geographical Society of London in a letter, of the contents of which I was informed by my friend, Captain Washington, was of opinion (Nov. 28, 1841) that the Dead Sea lay about 1400 feet under the level of the Mediterranean. A more recent communication of Lieutenant Symond (Jameson's 'Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal', vol. xxxiv., 1843, p. 178) gives 1312 feet as the final result of two very accordant trigonometrical operations.

The level of the water in the two last-named seas is p 297 666 and 1312 feet below the level of the Mediterranean. If we could suddenly remove the alluvial soil which covers the rocky strata in many parts of the earth's surface, we should discover how great a portion of the rocky crust of the earth was then below the present level of the sea. The periodic, although irregularly alternating rise and fall of the water of the Caspian Sea, of which I have myself observed evident traces in the northern portions of its basin, appears to prove,* as do also the observations of Darwin on the coral seas,** that without earthquakes, properly so- called, the surface of the earth is capable of the same gentle and progressive oscillations as those which must have prevailed so generally in the earliest ages, when the surface of the hardening crust of the earth was less compact than at present.

[footnote] *'Sur la Mobilite du fond de la Mer Caspienne', in my 'Asie Centr.', t. ii., p. 283-294. The Imperial Academy of Sciences of St. Petersburgh in 1830, at my request, charged the learned physicist Lenz to place marks indicating the mean level of the sea, for definite epochs, in different places near Baku, in the peninsula of Abscheron. In the same manner, in an appendix to the instructions given to Captain (now Sir James C.) Ross for his Antarctic expedition, I urged the necessity of causing marks to be cut in the rocks of the southern hemisphere, as had already been done in Sweden and on the shores of the Caspian Sea. Had this measure been adopted in the early voyages of Bougainville and Cook, we should now know whether the secular relative changes in the level of the seas and land are to be considered as a general, or merely a local natural phenomenon, and whether a law of direction can be recognized in the points which have simultaneous elevation or depression.

[footnote] **On the elevation and depression of the bottom of the South Sea, and the diffrent areas of alternate movements, see Darwin's 'Journal', p. 557, 561-566.

The phenomena to which we would here direct attention remind us of the instability of the present order of things, and of the changes to which the outlines and configuration of continents are probably still subject at long intervals of time. That which may scarcely be perceptible in one generation, accumulates during periods of time, whose duration is revealed to us by the movement of remote heavenly bodies. The eastern coast of the Scandinavian peninsula has probably risen p 298 about 320 feet in the space of 8000 years; and in 12,000 years, if the movement be regular, parts of the bottom of the sea which lie nearest the shores, and are in the present day covered by nearly fifty fathoms of water, will come to the surface and constitute dry land. But what are such intervals of time compared to the length of the geognostic periods revealed to us in the stratified series of formations, and in the world of extinct and varying organisms! We have hitherto only considered the phenomena of elevation; but the analogies of observed facts lead us with equal justice to assume the possibility of the depression of whole tracts of land. The mean elevation of the non-mountainous parts of France amounts to less than 480 feet. It would not, therefore, require any long period of time, compared with the old geognostic periods, in which such great changes were brought about in the interior of the earth, to effect the permanent submersion of the northwestern part of Europe, and induce essential alterations in its littoral relations.

The depression and elevation of the solid or fluid parts of the earth — phenomena which are so opposite in their action that the effect of elevation in one part is to produce an apparent depression in another — are the causes of all the changes which occur in the configuration of continents. In a work of this general character, and in an impartial exposition of the phenomena of nature, we must not overlook the 'possibility' of a diminution of the quantity of water, and a constant depression of the level of seas. Thgere can scarcely be a doubt that, at the period when the temperature of the surface of the earth was higher, when the waters were inclosed in larger and deeper fissures, and when the atmosphere possessed a totally different character from what it does at present, great changes must have occurred in the level of seas, depending upon the increase and decrease of the liquid parts of the earth's surface. But in the actual condition of our planet, there is no direct evidence of a real continuous increase or decrease of the sea, and we have no proof of any gradual change in its level at certain definite points of observation, as indicated by the mean range of the barometer. According to experiments made by Daussy and Antonio Nobile, an increase in the height of the barometer would in itself be attended by a depression in the level of the sea. But as the mean pressure of the atmosphere at the level of the sea is not the same at all latitudes, owing to meteorological causes depending upon the direction of the wind and varying degrees of moisture, the p 299 barometer alone can not afford a certain evidence of the general change of level in the ocean. The remarkable fact that some of the ports in the Mediterranean were repeatedly left dry during several hours at the beginning of this century, appears to show that currents may by changes occurring in their direction and force, occasion a 'local'' retreat of the sea, and a permanent drying of a small portion of the shore, without being followed by any actual diminution of water, or any permanent depression of the ocean. We must, however, be very cautious in applying the knowledge which we have lately arrived at, regarding these involved phenomena, since we might otherwise be led to ascribe to water as the elder element, what ought to be referred to the two other elements, earth and air.

As the 'external' configuration of continents, which we have already described in their horizontal expansion, exercises, by their variously indented littoral outlines, a favorable influence on climate, trade, and the progress of civilization, so likewise does their internal articulation, or the vertical elevation of the soil (chains of mountains and elevated plateaux), give rise to equally important results. Whatever produces a polymorphic diversity of forms on the surface of our planetary habitation — such as mountains, lakes, grassy savannas, or even deserts encircled by a band of forests — impresses some peculiar character on the social condition of the inhabitants. Ridges of high land covered by snow impede intercourse; but a blending of low, discontinued mountain chains* and tracts of valleys, as we see so happily presented in the west and south of Europe, tends to the multiplication of meteorological processes and the products of vegetation, and, from the variety manifested in different kinds of cultivation in each district, even under the same degree of latitude, gives rise to wants that stimulate the activity of the inhabitants.

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Rel. Hist.', t. iii., p. 232-234. See also, the able remarks on the configuration of the earth, and the position of its lines of elevation in Albrechts von Roon, 'Grundzugen der Erd Volker und Staatenkunde', Abth. i., 1837, s. 158, 270, 276.

Thus the awful revolutions, during which, by the action of the interior on the crust of the earth, great mountain chains have been elevated by the sudden upheaval of a portion of the oxydized exterior of our planet, have served, after the establishment of repose, and on the revival of organic life, to furnish a richer and more beautiful variety of individual forms, and in a great measure to remove from the earth that aspect of dreary p 300 uniformity which exercises so impoverishing an influence on the physical and intellectual powers of mankind.

According to the grand views of Elie de Beaumont, we must ascribe a relative age to each system of mountain chains* on the supposition that their elevation must necessarily have occurred between the period of the deposition of the vertically elevated strata and that of the horizontally inclined strata running at the base of the mountains.

[footnnote] *Leop. von Buch, 'Ueber die Geognostischen Systeme von Deutschland', in his 'Geogn. Briefen an Alexander von Humboldt', 1824, s. 265-271; Elie de Beaumont, 'Recherches sur les Revolutions de la Surface du Globe', 1829, p. 297-307.

The ridges of the Earth's crust — elevations of strata which are of the same geognostic age — appear, moreover, to follow one common direction. The line of strike of the horizontal strata is not always parallel with the axis of the chain, but intersects it, so that, according to my views,* the phenomenon of elevation of the strata, which is even found to be repeated in the neighboring plains, must be more ancient than the elevation of the chain.

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Asie Centrale', t. i., p. 277-283. See, also my 'Essai sur le Gisement des Roches', 1822, p. 57, and 'Relat. Hist.', t. iii., p. 244-250.

The main direction of the whole continent of Europe (from southwest to northeast) is opposite to that of the great fissures which pass from northwest to southeast, from the mouths of the Rhine and Elbe, through the Adriatic and Red Seas, and through the mountain system of Putschi-Koh in Luristan, toward the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean. This almost rectangular intersection of geodesic lines exercises an important influence on the commercial relations of Europe, Asia, and the northwest of Africa, and on the progress of civilization on the formerly more flourishing shores of the Mediterranean.*

[footnote] *'Asie Centrale', t. i., p. 284, 286. The Adriatic Sea likewise follows a direction from S.E. to N.W.

Since grand and lofty mountain chains so strongly excite our imagination by the evidence they afford of great terrestrial revolutions, and when considered as the boundaries of climates, as lines of separation for waters, or as the site of a different form of vegetation, it is the more necessary to demonstrate, by a correct numerical estimation of their volume, how small is the quantity of their elevated mass when compared with the area of the adjacent continnents. The mass of the Pyrenees, for instance, the mean elevation of whose summits, and the real quantity of whose base have been ascertained by accurate measurements, would if scattered over p 301 the surface of France, only raise its mean level about 115 feet. The mass of the eastern and western Alps would in like manner only increase the height of Europe about 21 1/2 feet above its present level. I have found by a laborious investigation,* which from its nature, can only give a maximum limit, that the center of gravity of the volume of the land raised above the present level of the sea in Europe and North America is respectively situated at an elevation of 671 and 748 feet, while it is at 1132 and 1152 feet in Asia and South America.

[footnote] *'De la hauteur Moyenne des Continents', in my 'Asie Centrale', t. i., p. 82-90, 165-189. The results which I have obtained are to be regarded as the extreme value ('nombres-limites'). Laplace's estimate of the mean height of continents at 3280 feet is at least three times too high. The immortal author of the 'Mecanique Celeste' (t. v., p. 14) was led to this conclusion by hypothetical views as to the mean depth of the sea. I have shown ('Asie Centr.', t. i., p. 93) that the old Alexandrian mathematicians, on the testimony of Plutarch ('in Aemilio Paulo', cap. 15), believed this depth to depend on the height of the mountains. The height of the center of gravity of the volume of the continental masses is probably subject to slight variations in the course of many centuries.

These numbers show the low level of norther regions. In Asia the vast steppes of Siberia are compensated for by the great elevations of the land (between the Himalaya, the North Thibetian chain of Kuen-lun, and the Celestial Mountains), from 28 degrees 30' to 40 degrees north latitude. We may, to a certain extent, trace in these numbers the portions of the Earth in which the Plutonic forces were most intensely manifested in the interior by the upheaval of continental masses.

There are no reasons why these Plutonic forces may not, in future ages, add new mountain systems to those which Elie de Beaumont has shown to be of such different ages, and inclined in such different directions. Why should the crust of the Earth have lost its property of being elevated in the ridges? The recently-elevated mountain systems of the Alps and the Cordilleras exhibit in Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa, in Sorata, Illimani, and Chimborazo, colossal elevations which do not favor the assumption of a decrease in the intensity of the subterranean forces. All geognostic phenomena indicate the periodic alternation of activity and repose;* but the quiet we now enjoy is only apparent.

[footnote] *'Zweiter Geologischer Brief von Elie de Beaumont an Alexander von Humboldt', in Poggendorf's 'Annalen', bd. xxv., s. 1-58.

The tremblings which still agitate the surface under all latitudes, and in every species of rock, the elevation of Sweden, the appearance of new islands of eruption, are all conclusive as to the unquiet condition of our planet.

p 302 The two envelopes of the solid surface of our planet — the liquid and the aeriform — exhibit, owing to the mobility of their particles, their currents, and their atmospheric relations, many analogies combined with the contrasts which arise from the great difference in the condition of their aggregation and elasticity. The depths of ocean and of air are alike unknown to us. At some few places under the tropics no bottom has been found with soundings of 276,000 (or more than four miles), while in the air, if, according to Wollaston, we may assume that it has a limit from which waves of sound may be reverberated, the phenomenon of twilight would incline us to assume a height at least nine times as great.*

[footnote] *[See Wilson's Paper, 'On Wollaston's Argument from the Limitation of the Atmosphere as to the finite Divisibility of Matter.' — 'Trans. of the Royal Society of Edinb.', vol. xvi., p. 1, 1845.] — Tr.

The a‘rial ocean rests partly on the solid earth, whose mountain chains and elevated plateaux rise, as we have already seen, like green wooded shoals, and partly on the sea, whose surface forms a moving base, on which rest the lower, denser, and more saturated strata of air.

Proceeding upward and downward from the common limit of the a‘rial and liquid oceans, we find that the strata of air and water are subject to determinate laws of decrease of temperature. This decrease is much less rapid in the air than in the sea, which has a tendency under all latitudes to maintain its temperature in the strata of water most contiguous to the atmosphere, owing to the sinking of the heavier and more cooled particles. A large series of the most carefully conducted observations on temperature shows us that in the ordinary and mean condition of its surface, the ocean from the equator to the forty-eighth degree of north and south latitude is somewhat warmer than the adjacent strata of air.*

[footnnote[ *Hamboldt, 'Relation Hist.', t. iii., chap. xxix., p. 514-530.

Owing to this decrease of temperature at increasing depths, fishes and other inhabitants of the sea, the nature of whose digestive and respiratory organs fits them for living in deep water, may even, under the tropics, find the low degree of temperature and the coolness of climate characteristic of more temperate and more northern latitudes. This circumstance, which is analogous to the prevalence of a mild and even cold air on the elevated plains of the torrid zone, exercises a special influence on the migration and geographical distribution of many marine animals. Moreover, the depths at which fishes live, modify, by the increase of pressure, their cutaneous respiration, and the p 303 oxygenous and nitrogenous contents of the swimming bladders.

As fresh and salt water do not attain the maximum of their density at the same degree of temperature, and as the saltness of the sea lowers the thermometrical degree corresponding to this point, we can understand how the water drawn from breat depths of the sea during the voyages of the Kotzebue and Dupetit-Thouars could have been found to have only the temperature of 37 degrees and 36.5 degrees. This icy temperatureof sea water, which is likewise manifested at the depths of tropical seas, first led to a study of the lower polar currents, which move from both poles toward the equator. Without these submarine currents, the tropical seas at those depths could only have a temperature equal to the local maximum of cold possessed by the falling particles of water at the radiating and cooled surface of the tropical sea. In the Mediterranean, the cause of the absence of such a refrigeration of the lower strata is ingeniously explained by Arago, on the assumption that the entrance of the deeper polar currents into the Straits of Gibraltar, where the water at the surface flows in from the Atlantic Ocean from west to east, is hindered by the submariine counter-currents which move from east to west, from the Mediterranean into the Atlantic.

The ocean, which acts as a general equalizer and moderator of climates, exhibits a most remarkable uniformity and constancy of temperature, especially between 10 degrees north and 10 degrees south latitude,* over spaces of many thousands of square miles, at a distance from land where it is not penetrated by currents of cold and heated water.

[footnote] *See the series of observations made by me in the South Sea, from 8 degrees 5' to 13 degrees 16' N. lat., in my 'Asie Centrale', t. iii., p. 234.

It has therefore, been justly observed, that an exact and long-continued investigation of these thermic relations of the tropical seas might most easily afford a solution to the great and much-contested problem of the permanence of climates and terrestrial temperatures.*

[footnote] *We might (by means of the temperature of the ocean under the tropics) enter into the consideration of a question which has hitherto remained unanswered, namely, that of the constancy of terrestrial temperatures, without taking into account the very circumscribed local influences arising from the diminution of wood in the plains and on mountains, and the drying up of lakes and marshes. Each age might easily transmit to the succeeding one some few data, which would perhaps furnish the most simple, exact, and direct means of deciding whether the sun, which is almost the sole and exclusive source of the heat of our planet, changes its physical constitution and splendor, like the greater number of the stars, or whether, on the contrary, that luminary has attained to a permanent condition." — Arago, in the 'Comptes Rendus des Seances de l'Acad. des Sciences', t. ii., p. 321, 327.

Great changes in the luminous disk of the sun would, p 304 if they were of long duration, be reflected with more certainty in the mean temperature of the sea than in that of the solid land.

The zones at which occur the maxima of the oceanic temperature and of the density (the saline contents) of its waters, do not correspond with the equator. The two maxima are separated from one another, and the waters of the highest temperature appear to form two nearly parallel lines north and south of the geographical equator. Lenz, in his voyage of circumnavigation, found in the Pacific the maxima of density in 22 degrees north and 17 degrees south latitude, while its minimum was situated a few degrees to the south of the equator. In the region of calms the solar heat can exercise but little influence on evaporation, because the stratum of air impregnated with saline aqueous vapor, which rests on the surface of the sea, remains still and unchanged.

The surface of all connected seas must be considered as having a general perfectly equal level with respect to their mean elevation. Local causes (probably prevailing winds and currents) may, however, produce permanent, although trifling changes in the level of some deeply indented bays, as for instance, the Red Sea. The highest level of the water at the Isthmus of Suez is at different hours of the day from 24 to 30 feet above that of the Mediterranean. The form of the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, through which the waters appear to find an easier ingress than egress, seems to contribute to this remarkable phenomenon, which was known to the ancients.*

[[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Asie Centrale', t. ii., p. 321, 327.

The admirable geodetic operations of Coraboeuf and Delcrois show that no perceptible difference of level exists between the upper surfaces of the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, along the chain of the Pyrenees, or between the coasts of northern Holland and Marseilles.*

[footnote] *See the numerical results in p. 328-333 of the volume just named. From the geodesical levelings which, at my request, my friend General Bolivar caused to be taken by Lloyd and Falmare, in the years 1828 and 1829, it was ascertained that the level of the Pacific is at the utmost 3 1/2 feet higher than that of the Caribbean Sea; and even that at different hours of the day each of the seas is in turn the higher, according to their respective hours of flood and ebb. If we reflect that in a distance of 64 miles, comprising 933 stations of observation, an error of three feet would be very apt to occur, we may say that in these new operations we have further confirmation of the equilibrium of the waters which communicate round Cape Horn. (Arago, in the 'Annuaire du Bureau des Longitudes pour' 1831, p. 319.) I had inferred from barometrical observations instituted in 1799 and 1804, that if there were any difference between the level of the Pacific and the Atlantic (Carribean Sea), it could not exceed three meters (nine feet three inches). See my 'Relat. Hist.', t. iii., p. 555-557, and 'Annales de Chimie', t. i., p. 55-64. The measurements, which appear to establish an excess of height for the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, and for those of the northern part of the Adriatic Sea, obtained by combining the trigonometrical operations of Delcrois and Choppin with those of the Swiss and Austrian engineers, are open to many doubts. Notwithstanding the form of the Adriatic, it is improbable that the level of its waters in its northern portion should be 28 feet higher than that of the Mediterranean at Marseilles, and 25 feet higher than the level of the Atlantic Ocean. See my 'Asie Centrale', t. ii., p. 332.

p 305 Disturbances of equilibrium and consequent movements of the waters are partly irregular and transitory, dependent upon winds, and producing waves which sometimes, at a distance from the shore and during a storm, rise to a height of more than 35 feet; partly regular and periodic, occasioned by the position and attraction of the sun and moon, as the ebb and flow of the tides; and partly permanent, although less intense, occurring as oceanic currents. The phenomena of tides, which prevail in all seas (with the exception of the smaller ones that are completely closed in, and where the ebbing and flowing waves are scarcely or not at all perceptible), have been perfectly explained by the Newtonian doctrine, and thus brought "within the domain of necessary facts." Each of these periodically-recurring oscillations of the waters of the sea has a duration of somewhat more than half a day. Although in the open sea they scarcely attain an elevation of a few feet, they often rise considerably higher where the waves are opposed by the configuration of the shores, as for instance, at St. Malo and in Nova Scotia, where they reach the respective elevation of 50 feet, and of 65 to 70 feet. "It has been shown by the analysis of the great geometrician Laplace, that, supposing the depth to be wholly inconsiderable when compared with the radius of the earth, the stability of the equilibrium of the sea requires that the density of its fluid should be less than that of the earth; and, as we have already seen, the earth's density is in fact five times greater than that of water. The elevated parts of the land can not therefore be overflowed, nor can the remains of marine animals found on the summits of mountains have been conveyed to those localities by any previous high tides.*

[footnote] *Bessel, 'Ueber Fluth und Ebbe', in Schumacher's 'ahrbuch', 1838, s. 225.

It is no slight



This material taken from pages 305-362

COSMOS: A Sketch of the Physical Description of the Universe, Vol. 1 by Alexander von Humboldt

Translated by E C Otte

from the 1858 Harper & Brothers edition of Cosmos, volume 1 —————————————————————————

p 305 [balance of p 305 is in file "09 Humboldt"] It is no slight p 306 evidence of the importance of analysis, which is too often regarded with contempt among the unscientific, that Laplace's perfect theory of tides has enabled us, in our astronomical ephemerides, to predict the height of spring-tides at the periods of new and full moon, and thus put the inhabitants of the sea-shore on their guard against the increased danger attending these lunar revolutions.

Oceanic currents, which exercise so important an influence on the intercourse of nations and on the climatic relations of adjacent coasts, depend conjointly upon various causes, differing alike in nature and importance. Among these we may reckon the periods at which tides occur in their progress round the earth; the duration and intensity of prevailing winds; the modifications of density and specific gravity which the particles of water undergo in consequence of differences in the temperature and in the relative quantity of saline contents at different latitudes and depths;* and, lastly, the horary variations of the atmospheric pressure, successively propagated from east to west, and occurring with such regularity in the tropics.

[footnote] *The relative density of the particles of water depends simultaneously on the temperature and on the amount of the saline contents — a circumstance that is not sufficiently borne in mind in considering the cause of currents. The submarine current, which brings the cold polar water to the equatorial regions, would follow an exactly opposite course, that is to say, from the equator toward the poles, if the difference in saline contents were alone concerned. In this view, the geographical distribution of temperature and of density in the water of the ocean, under the different zones of latitude and longitude, is of great importance. The numerous observations of Lenz (Poggendorf's 'Annalen', bd. xx., 1830, s. 129), and those of Captain Beechey, collected in his 'Voyage to the Pacific', vol. ii., p. 727, deserve particular attention. See Humboldt, 'Relat. Hist.', t. i., p. 74, and 'Asie Centrale', t. iii., p. 346.

These currents present a remarkable spectacle; like rivers of uniform breadth, they cross the sea in different directions, while the adjacent strata of water, which remain undisturbed, form, as it were, the banks of these moving streams. This diffrence between the moving waters and those at rest is most strikingly manifested where long lines of sea-weed, borne onward by the current, enable us to estimate its velocity. In the lower strata of the atmosphere, we may sometimes, during a storm, observe similar phenomena in the limited aerial current, which is indicated by a narrow line of trees, which are often found to be overthrown in the midst of a dense wood.

The general movement of the sea from east to west between p 307 the tropics (termed the equatorial or rotation currnt) is considered to be owing to the propagation of tides and to the trade winds. Its direction is changed by the resistance it experiences from the prominent eastern shores of continents. The results recently obtained by Daussy regarding the velocity of this current, estimated from observations made on the distances traversed by bottles that had purposely been thrown into the sea, agree within one eighteenth with the velocity of motion (10 French nautical miles, 952 toises each, in 24 hours) which I had found from a comparison with earlier experiments.*

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Relat. Hist.', t. i., p. 67; 'Nouvelles Annales des Voyages', 1839, p. 255.

Christopher Columbus, during his third voyage, when he was seeking to enter the tropics in the meridian of Teneriffe, wrote in his journal as follows:* "I regard it as proved that the waters of the sea move from east to west, as do the heavens ('las aguas van con los cielos'), that is to say, like the apparent motion of the sun, moon, and stars."

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Examen Crit. de l'Hist. de la Geogr.', t. iii., p. 100. Columbus adds shortly after (Navarrete, 'Coleccion de los Viages y Descubrimientos de los Espanoles', t. i., p. 260), that the movement is strongest in the Caribbean Sea. In fact, Rennell terms this region, "not a current, but a sea in motion". ('Investigation of Currents', p. 23). 66-74.

The narrow currents, or true oceanic rivers which traverse the sea, bring warm water into higher and cold water into lower latitudes. To the first class belongs the celebrated Gulf Stream,* which was known to Anghiera, and more especially to Sir Humphrey Gilbert in the sixteenth century.

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Examen Critique', t. ii., p. 250; 'Relat. Hist.', t. i., p. 66-74.

[footnote] *Petrus Martyr de Anghiera, 'De Rebus Oceanicis et Orbe Novo', Bas., 1523, Dec. iii., lib. vi., p. 57. See Humboldt, 'Examen Critique', t. ii., p. 254-257, and t. iii., p. 108.

Its first impulse and origin is to be sought to the south of the Cape of Good Hope; after a long circuit it pours itself from the Caribbean Sea and the Mexican Gulf through the Straits of the Bahamas, and, following a course from south-southwest to north-northeast, continues to recede from the shores of the United States, until, further deflected to the eastward by the Banks of Newfoundland, it approaches the European coasts, frequently throwing a quantity of tropical seeds ('Mimosa scandens, Guilandina bonduc, Dolichos urens') on the shores of Ireland, the Hebrides, and Norway. The northeastern prolongation tends to mitigate the cold of the ocean, and to ameliorate the climate on the most northern extremity of Scandinavia. At the point where the Gulf Stream p 308 is deflected from the Banks of Newfoundland toward the east, it sends off branches to the south near the Azores.*

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Examen Crit.', t. iii., p. 64-109

This is the situation of the Sargasso Sea, or that great bank of weeds which so vividly occupied the imagination of Christopher Columbus, and which Oviedo calls the sea-weed meadows ('Praderias de yerva'). A host of small marine animals inhabits these tently-moved and evergreen masses of 'Fucus natans', one of the most generally distributed of the social plants of the sea.

The counterpart of this current (which in the Atlantic Ocean, between Africa, America, and Europe, belongs almost exclusively to the northern hemisphere) is to be found in the South Pacific, where a current prevails, the effect of whose low temperature on the climate of the adjacent shores I had an opportunity of observing in the autumn of 1802. It brings the cold waters of the high southern latitudes to the coast of Chili, follows the shores of this continent and of Peru, first from south to north, and is then deflected from the Bay of Arica onward from south-southeast to north-northwest. At certain seasons of the year the temperature of this cold oceanic current is, in the tropics, only 60 degrees, while the undisturbed adjacent water exhibits a temperature of 81.5 degrees and 83.7 degrees. On that part of the shore of South America south of Payta, which inclines furthest westward, the current is suddenly deflected in the same direction from the shore, turning so sharply to the west that a ship sailing northward passes suddenly from cold into warm water.

It is not known to what depth cold and warm oceanic currents propagate their motion; but the deflection experienced by the South African current, from the Lagullas Bank, which is fully from 70 to 80 fathoms deep, would seem to imply the existence of a far-extending propagation. Sand banks and shoals lying beyond the line of these currents may, as was first discovered by the admirable Benjamin Franklin, be recognized by the coldness of the water over them. This depression of the temperature appears to me to depend upon the fact that, by the propagation of the motion of the sea, deep waters rise to the margin of the banks and mix with the upper strata. My lamented friend, Sir Humphrey Davy, ascribed this phenomenon (the knowledge of which is often of great practical utility in securing the safety of the navigator) to the descent of the particles of water that had been cooled by nocturnal radiation p 309 and which remain nearer to the surface, owing to the hinderance placed in the way of their greater descent by the intervention of sand-banks. By his observations Franklin may be said to have converted the thermometer into a sounding line. Mists are frequently found to rest over these depths, owing to the condensation of the vapor of the atmosphere by the cooled waters. I have seen such mists in the south of Jamaica, and also in the Pacific, defining with sharpness and clearness the form of the shoals below them, appearing to the eye as the aerial reflection of the bottom of the sea. A still more striking effect of the cooling produced by shoals is manifested in the higher strata of air, in a somewhat analogous manner to that observed in the case of flat coral reefs, or sand islands. In the open sea, far from the land, and when the air is calm, clouds are often observed to rest over the spots where shoals are situated, and their bearing may then be taken by the compass in the same manner as that of a high mountain or isolated peak.

Although the surface of the ocean is less rich in living forms than that of continents, it is not improbable that, on a further investigation of its depths, its interior may be found to possess a greater richness of organic life than any other portion of our planet. Charles Darwin, in the agreeable narrative of his extensive voyages, justly remarks that our forests do not conceal so many animals as the low woody regions of the ocean, where the sea-weed rooted to the bottom of the shoals, and the severed branches of fuci, loosened by the force of the waves and currents, and swimming free, unfold their delicate foliage, upborne by air-cells.*

[footnote] *[See 'Structure and Distribution of Coral Reefs', by Charles Darwin, London, 1842. Also, 'Narrative of the Surveying Voyage of H.M.S. "Fly" in the Eastern Archipelago, during the Years ' 1842-1846, by J. B. Jukes, Naturalist to the expedition, 1847.] — Tr.

The application of the microscope increases, in the most striking manner, our impression of the rich luxuriance of animal life in the ocean, and reveals to the astonished senses a consciousness of the universality of life. In the oceanic depths, far exceeding the height of our loftiest mountain chains, every stratum of water is animated with polygastric sea-worms, Cyclidiae and Ophrydinae. The waters swarm with countless hosts of small luminiferous animalcules, Mammaria (of the order of Acalephae), Crustacea, Peridinea, and circling Nereides, which when attracted to the surface by peculiar meteorological conditions, convert every wave into a foaming band of flashing light.

p 310 The abundance of those marine animalcules, and the animal matter yielded by their rapid decomposition are so vast that the sea water itself becomes a nutrient fluid to many of the larger animals. However much this richness in animated forms, and this multitude of the most various and highly-developed microscopic organisms may agreeably excite the fancy, the imagination is even more seriously, and, I might say, more solemnly moved by the impression of boundlessness and immeasureability, which are presented to the mind by every sea voyage. All who possess an ordinary degree of mental activity, and delight to create to themselves an inner world of thought, must be penetrated with the sublime image of the infinite, when gazing around them on the vast and boundless sea, when involuntarily the glance is attracted to the distant horizon, where air and water blend together, and the stars continually rise and set before the eyes of the mariner. This contemplation of the eternal play of the elements is clouded, like every human joy, by a touch of sadness and of longing.

A peculiar predilection for the sea, and a grateful remenbrance of the impression which it has excited in my mind, when I have seen it in the tropics in the calm of nocturnal rest, or in the fury of the tempest, have alone induced me to speak of the individual enjoyment afforded by its aspect before I entered upon the consideration of the favorable influence which the proximity of the ocean has incontrovertibly exercised on the cultivation of the intellect and character of many nations, by the multiplication of those bands which ought to encircle the whole of humanity, by affording additional means of arriving at a knowledge of the configuration of the earth, and furthering the advancement of astronomy, and of all other mathematical and physical sciences. A portion of this influence was at first limited to the Mediterranean and the shores of southwestern Africa, but from the sixteenth century it has widely spread, extending to nations who live at a distance from the sea, in the interior of continents. Since Columbus was sent to "unchain the ocean"* (as the unknown voice whispered to him in a dream when he lay on a sick-bed near p 311 the River Belem), man has ever boldly ventured onward toward the discovery of unknown regions.

[footnote] *The voice addressed him in these words, "Maravillosamente Dios hizo sonar tu nombre en la tierra; de los atamientos de la mar Oceana, que estaban cerrados con cadenas tan fuertes, te di— las llaves" — "God will cause thy name to be wonderfully resounded through the earth, and give thee the keys of the gates of the ocean, which are closed with strong chains." The dream of Columbus is related in the letter to the Catholic monarchs of July the 7th, 1503. (Humboldt, 'Examen Critique', t. iii., p. 234.)

The second external and general covering of our planet, the aerial ocean, in the lower strata, and on the shoals of which we live, presents six classes of natural phenomena, which manifest the most intimate connection with one another. They are dependent on the chemical composition of the atmosphere, the variations in its transparency, polarization, and color, its density or pressure, its temperature and humidity, and its electricity. The air contains in oxygen the first element of physical animal life, and besides this benefit, it possesses another, which may be said to be of a nearly equally high character, namely, that of conveying sound; a faculty by which it likewise becomes the conveying sound; a faculty by which it likewise becomes the conveyer of speech and the means of communicating thought, and consequently of maintaining social intercourse. If the Earth were deprived of an atmosphere, as we suppose our moon to be, it would present itself to our imagination as a soundless desert.

The relative quantities of the substances composing the strata of air accessible to us have, since the beginning of the nineteenth century, become the object of investigations, in which Gay-Lussac and myself have taken an active part; it is however, only very recently that the admirable labors of Dumas and Boussingault have, by new and more accurate methods, brought the chemical analysis of the atmosphere to a high degree of perfection. According to this analysis, a volume of dry air contains 20.8 of oxygen, and 79.2 of nitrogen, besides from two to five thousandth parts of carbonic acid gas, a still smaller quantity of carbureted hydrogen gas,* and, according to the important experiments of Saussure and Liebig, traces of ammoniacal vapors,** from which plants derive their nitrogenous contents.

[footnote] *Boussingault, 'Recherches sur la Composition de l'Atmosphere', in the 'Annales de Chimie et de Physique', t. lvii., 1834, p. 171-173; and lxxi. 1839, p. 116. According to Boussingault and Lewy, the proportion of carbonic acid in the atmosphere at Audilly, at a distance, therefore, from the exhalations of a city, varied only between 0.00028 and 0.00031 in volume.

[footnote] **Liebig, in his important work, entitles 'Die Organische Chemie in ihrer Anwendung auf Agricultur und Physiologie', 1840, s. 62-72. On the influence of atmospheric electricity in the production of nitrate of ammonia, which, coming into contact with carbonate of lime, is changed into carbonate of ammonia, see Boussingault's 'Economie Rurale consideree dans ses Rapports avec la Chimie et la Meteorologie', 1844, t. ii., p. 247, 267, and t. i., p. 84.

Some observations of Lewy render it probable that the quantity of oxygen varies perceptibly p 312 but slightly, over the sea and in the interior of continents, according to local conditions or to the seasons of the year. We may easily conceive that changes in the oxygen held in solution in the sea, produced by microscopic animal organisms, may be attended by alterations in the strata of air in immediate contact with it.*

[footnote] *Lewy, in the 'Comptes Rendus de l'Acad. des Sciences', t. xvii., Part ii., p. 235-248.

The air which Martins collected at Faulhorn at an elevation of 8767 feet, contained as much oxygen as the air at Paris.*

[footnote] *Dumas, in the 'Annales de Chimie, 3e Serie', t. iii., 1841, p. 257.

The admixture of carbonate of ammonia in the atmosphere may probably be considered as older than the existence of organic beings on the surface of the earth. The sources from which carbonic acid* may be yielded to the atmosphere are most numerous.

[footnote] *In this enumeration, the exhalation of carbonic acid by plants during the night, while they inhale oxygen, is not taken into account, because the increase of carbonic acid from this source is amply counter-balanced by the respiratory process of plants during the day. See Boussingault's 'Econ. Rurale', t. i., p. 53-68, and Liebig's 'Organische Chemie', s. 16, 21.

In the first place we would mention the respiration of animals, who receive the carbon which they inhale from vegetable food, while vegetables receive it from the atmosphere; in the next place, carbon is supplied from the interior of the earth in the vicinity of exhausted volcanoes and thermal springs, from the decomposition of a small quantity of carbureted hydrogen gas in the atmosphere, and from the electric discharges of clouds, which are of such frequent occurrence within the tropics. Besides these substances, which we have considered as appertaining to the atmosphere at all heights that are accessible to us, there are others accidentally mixed with them, especially near the ground, which sometimes, in the form of miasmatic and gaseous contagia, exercise a noxious influence on animal organization. Their chemical nature has not yet been ascertained by direct analysis; but, from the consideration of the processes of decay which are perpetually going on in the animal and vegetable substances with which the surface of our planet is covered, and judging from analogies deduced from the comain of pathology, we are led to infer the existence of such noxious local admixtures. Ammoniacal and other nitrogenous vapors, sulphureted hydrogen gas, and compounds analogous to the polybasic ternary and quaternary compounds analogous to the polybasic ternary and quaternary combinations of the vegetable kingdom, may produce miasmata,* p 313 which, under various forms, may generate ague and typhus fever (not by any means exclusively on wet, marshy ground, or on coasts covered by putrescent mollusca, and low bushes of 'Rhizophora mangle' and Avicennia).

[footnote] *Gay-Lussac, in 'Annales de Chimie', t. liii., p. 120; Payen, Mem. sur la Composition Chimique des Vegetaux, p. 36, 42; Liebig, 'Org. Chemie', s. 229-345; Boussingault, 'Econ. Rurale', t. i., p. 142-153.

Fogs which have a peculiar smell at some seasons of the year, remind us of these accidental admixtures in the lower strata of the atmosphere. Winds and currents of air caused by the heating of the ground even carry up to a considerable elevation solid substances reduced to a fine powder. The dust which darkens the air for an extended area, and falls on the Cape Verd Islands, to which Darwin has drawn attention, contains, according to Ehrenberg's discovery, a host of silicious-shelled infusoria.

As principal features of a general descriptive picture of the atmosphere, we may enumerate:

1. 'Variations of atmospheric pressure': to which belong the horary oscillations, occurring with such regularity in the tropics, where they produce a kind of ebb and flow in the atmosphere, which can not be ascribed to the attraction of the moon,* and which differs so considerably according to geographical latitude, the seasons of the year, and the elevation above the level of the sea.

[footnote] *Bouvard, by the application of the formulae, in 1827, which Laplace had deposited with the Board of Longitude shortly before his death, found that the portion of the horary oscillations of the pressure of the atmosphere, which depends on the attraction of the moon, can not raise the mercury in the barometer at Paris more than the 0.018 of a millimeter, while eleven years' observations at the same place show the mean barometric oscillation, from 9 A.M. to 3 P.M., to be 0.756 millim., and from 3 P.M. to 9 P.M., 0.373 millim. See 'Memoires de l'Acad. des Sciences', t. vii., 1827, p. 267.

2. 'Climatic distribution of heat', which depends on the relative position of the transparent and opaque masses (the fluid and solid parts of the surface of the earth), and on the hypsometrical configuration of continents; relations which determine the geographical position and curvature of the isothermal lines (or curves of equal mean annual temperature) both in a horizontal and vertical direction, or on a uniform plane, or in different superposed strata of air.

3. 'The distribution of the humidity of the atmosphere'. The quantitative relations of the humitidy depend on the differences in the solid and oceanic surfaces; on the distance from the equator and the level of the sea; on the form in which the p 314 aqueous vapor is precipitated, and on the connection existing between these deposits and the changes of temperature, and the direction and succession of winds.

4. 'The electric condition of the atmosphere'. the primary cause of this condition, when the heavens are serene, is still much contested. Under this head we must consider the relation of ascending vapors to the electric charge and the form of the clouds, according to the different periods of the day and year; the difference between the cold and warm zones of the earth, or low and high lands; the frequency or rarity of thunder storms, their periodicity and formation in summer and winter; the causal connection of electricity, with the infrequent occurrence of hail in the night, and with the phenomena of water and sand spouts, so ably investigated by Peltier.

The horary oscillations of the barometer, which in the tropics present two maxima (viz., at 9 or 9 1/4 P.M., and 4 A.M., occurring, therefore, in almost the hottest and coldest hours), have long been the object of my most careful diurnal and nocturnal observations.*

[footnote] *'Observations faites pour constater la Marche des Variations Horaires du Barometre sous les Tropiques', in my 'Relation Historique du Voyage aux Regions Equinoxiales', t. iii., p. 270-313.

Their regularity is so great, that, in the daytime especially, the hour may be ascertained from the height of the mercurial column without an error, on the average, of more than fifteen or seventeen minutes. In the torrid zones of the New Continent, on the coasts as well as at elevations of nearly 13,000 feet above the level of the sea, where the mean temperature falls to 44.6 degrees, I have found the regularity of the ebb and flow of the aerial ocean undisturbed by storms, hurricanes, rain, and earthquakes. The amount of the daily oscillations diminishes from 1.32 to 0.18 French lines from the equator to 70 degrees north latitude, where Bravais made very accurate observations at Bosekop.*

[footnote] *Bravais, in Daemtz and Martins, 'Meteorologie', p. 263. At Halle (51 degrees 29' N. lat.), the oscillation still amounts to 0.28 lines. It would seem that a great many observations will be required in order to obtain results that can be trusted in regard to the hours of the maximum and minimum on mountains in the temperate zone. See the observations of horary variations, collected on the Faulhorn in 1832, 1841, and 1842 (Martins, 'Meteorologie', p. 254.)

The supposition that, much nearer the pole, the height of the barometer is really less at 10 A.M. than at 4 P.M., and consequently, that the maximum and minimum influences of these hours p 315 are inverted, is not confirmed by Parry's observations at Port Bowen (73 degrees 14').

The mean height of the barometer is somewhat less under the equator and in the tropics, owing to the effect of the rising current,* than in the temperate zones, and it appears to attain its maximum in Western Europe between the parallels of 40 degrees and 45 degrees.

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Essai sur la Geographie des Plantes', 1807, p. 90; and in 'Rel. Hist.', t. iii., p. 313; and on the diminuation of atmospheric pressure in the tropical portions of the Atlantic, in Poggend., 'Annalen der Physik', bd. xxxvii., s. 245-258, and s. 463-486.

If with KŠmtz we connect together by 'isobarometric' lines those places which present the same mean difference between the monthly extremes of the barometer, we shall have curves whose geographical position and inflections yield important conclusions regarding the influence exercised by the form of the land and the distribution of seas on the oscillations of the atmosphere. Hindostan with its high mountain chains and triangular peninsulas, and the eastern coasts of the New Continent, where the warm Gulf Stream turns to the east at the Newfoundland Banks, exhibit greater isobarometric oscillations than do the group of the Antilles and Western Europe. The prevailing winds exercise a principal influence on the diminution of the pressure of the atmosphere, and this, as we have already mentioned, is accompanied, according to Daussey, by an elevation of the mean level of the sea.¥

[footnote] *Dausay, in the 'Comptes Rendus', t. iii., p. 136.

As the most important fluctuations of the pressure of the atmosphere, whether occurring with horary or annual regularity, or accidentally, and then often attended by violence and danger,* are like all the other phenomena of the weather, mainly owing to the heating force of the sun's rays, it has long been suggested (partly according to the idea of Lambert) that the direction of the wind should be compared with the height of the barometer, alternations of temperature, and the increase and decrease of humidity.

[footnote] *Dove, 'Ueber die Sturme', in Poggend., 'Annalen', bd. lii., s. 1.

Tables of atmospheric pressure during different winds, termed 'barometric windroses', afford a deeper insight into the connection of meteorological phenomena.*

[footnote] *Leopold von Buch, 'Barometrische Windrose', in 'Abhandl. der Akad. der Wiss. zu Berlin aus den Jahren', 1818-1819, s. 187.

Dove has, with admirable sagacity, recognized, in the "law of rotation" in both hemispheres, which he himself established, the cause of many important processes in the aerial ocean.*

[footnote] *See Dove, 'Meteorologishe Untersuchungen', 1837, s. 99-313; and the excellent observations of KŠmtz on the descent of the west wind of the upper current in high latitudes, and the general phenomena of the direction of the wind, in his 'Vorlesungen uber µeterologie', 1840, s. 58-66, 196-200, 327-336, 353-364; and in Schumacher's 'Jahrbuch fur' 1838, s. 291-302. A very satisfactory and vivid representation of meteorological phenomena is given by Dove, in his small work entitled 'WitterungsverhŠltnisse von Berlin', 1842. On the knowledge of the earlier navigators of the rotation of the wind, see Churruca, 'Viage at Magellanes', 1793, p. 15; and on a remarkable expression of Columbus, which his son Don Fernando Colon has presented to us in his 'Vida del Almirante', cap. 55, see Humboldt, 'Examen Critique de l'Hist. de Geographie', t. iv., p. 253.

The difference of temperature between the p 315 equatorial and polar regions engenders two opposite currents in the upper strata of the atmosphere and on the Earth's surface. Owing to the difference between the rotatory velocity at the poles and at the equator, the polar current is deflected eastward, and the equatorial current westward. The great phenomena of atmospheric pressure, the warming and cooling of the strata of air, the aqueous deposits, and even, as Dove has correctly represented, the formation and appearance of clouds, alike depend on the opposition of these two currents, on the place where the upper one descends, and on the displacement of the one by the other. Thus the figures of the clouds, which form an animated part of the charms of a landscape, announce the processes at work in the upper regions of the atmosphere, and, when the air is calm, the clouds will often present, on a bright summer sky, the "projected image" of the radiating soil below.

Where this influence of radiation is modified by the relative position of large continental and oceanic surfaces, as between the eastern shore of Africa and the western part of the Indian peninsula, its effects are manifested in the Indian monsoons, which change with the periodic variations in the sun's declination,* and which were known to the Greek navigators under the name of 'Hippalos'.

[footnote] *'Monsun' (Malayan 'musim', the 'hippalos' of the Greeks) is derived from the Arabic word 'mausim', a set time or season of the year, the time of the assemblage of pilgrims at Mecca. The word has been applied to the seasons at which certain winds prevail, which are, besides, named from places lying in the direction from whence they come; thus, for instance, there is the 'mausim' of Aden, of Guzerat, Malabar, etc. (Lassen, 'Indische Alterthumskunde', bd. i., 1843, s. 211). On the contrasts between the solid or fluid substrata of the atmosphere, see Dove, in 'Der Abhandl. der Akad. der Wiss. zu Berlin aus dem Jahr' 1842, s. 239.

In the knowledge of the monsoons, which undoubtedly dates back thousands of years among the inhabitants of Hindostan and China, of the eastern parts of the Arabian Gulf and of the western shores of the Malayan p 317 Sea, and in the still more ancient and more general acquaintance with land and sea winds, lies concealed, as it were, the germ of that meteorological sciences which is now making such rapid progress. The long chain of 'magnetic stations' extending from Moscow to Pekin, across the whole of Northern Asia, will prove of immense importance in determining the 'law of the winds', since these stations have also for their object the investigation of general meteorological relations. The comparison of observations made at places lying so many hundred miles apart, will decide, for instance, whether the same east wind blows from the elevated desert of Gobi to the interior of Russia, or whether the direction of the Aerial current first began in the middle of the series of the stations, by the descent of the air from the higher regions. By means of such observations, we may learn, in the strictest sense, 'whence' the wind cometh. If we only take the results on which we may depend from those places in which the observations on the direction of the winds have been continued more than twenty years, we shall find (from the most recent and careful calculations of Wilhelm Mahlmann) that in the middle latitudes of the temperate zone, in both continents, the prevailing aerial current has a west-southwest direction.

Our insight into the 'distribution of heat' in the atmosphere has been rendered more clear since the attempt has been made to connect together by lines those places where the mean annual summer and winter temperatures have been ascertain by correct observations. The system of 'isothermal, osotheral' and 'isochimenal' lines, which I first brought into use in 1817, may, perhaps, if it be gradually perfected by the united efforts of investigators, serve as one of the main foundations of 'comparative climatology'. Terrestrial magnetism did not acquire a right to be regarded as a science until partial results were graphically connected in a system of lines of 'equal declination, equal inclinatiion', and 'equal intensity'.

The term 'climate', taken in its most general sense, indicated all the changes in the atmosphere which sensibly affect our organs, as temperature, humidity, variations in the barometrical pressure, the calm state of the air or the action of opposite winds, the amount of electric tension, the purity of the atmosphere or its admixture with more or less noxious gaseous exhalations, and, finally, the degree of ordinary transparency and clearness of the sky, which is not only important with respect to the increased radiation from the Earth, the organic development of plants, and the ripening of fruits, but p 318 also with reference to its influence on the feelings and mental condition of men.

If the surface of the Earth consisted of one and the same homogeneous fluid mass, or of strata of rock having the same color, density, smoothness, and power of absorbing heat from the solar rays, and of radiating it in a similar manner through the atmosphere, the isothermal, isotheral, and isochimenal lines would all be parallel to the equator. In this hypothetical condition of the Earth's surface, the power of absorbing and emitting light and heat would every where be the same under the same latitudes. The mathematical consideration of climate, which does not exclude the supposition of the existence of currents of heat in the interior, or in the external crust of the earth, nor of the propagation of heat by atmospheric currents, proceeds from this mean, and, as it were, primitive condition. Whatever alters the capacity for absorption and radiation, at places lying under the same parallel of latitude, gives rise to inflections in the isothermal lines. The nature of these inflections, the angles at which the isothermal, isotheral, or isochimenal lines intersect the parallels of latitude, their convexity or concavity with respect to the pole of the same hemisphere, are dependent on causes which more or less modify the temperature under different degrees of longitude.

The progress of 'Climatology' has been remarkably favored by the extension of European civilization to two opposite coasts, by its transmission from our western shores to a continent which is bounded on the east by the Atlantic Ocean. When, after the ephemeral colonization from Iceland and Greenland, the British laid the foundation of the first permanent settlements on the shores of the United States of America, the emigrants (whose numbers were rapidly increased in consequence either of religious persecution, fanaticism, or love of freedom, and who soon spread over the vast extent of territory lying between the Carolinas, Virginia, and the St. Lawrence) were astonished to find themselves exposed to an intensity of winter cold far exceeding that which prevailed in Italy, France, and Scotland, situated in corresponding parallels of latitude. But, however much a consideration of these climatic relations may have awakened attention, it was not attended by any practical results until it could be based on the numerical data of 'mean annual temperature'. If, between 58 degrees and 30 degrees north latitude, we compair Nain, on the coast of Labrador, with Gottenburg; Halifax with Bordeaus; New p 319 York with Naples; St. Augustine, in Florida, with Cairo, we find that, under the same degrees of latitude, the differences of the mean annual temperature between Eastern America and Western Europe, proceeding from north to south, are successively 20.7 degrees, 13.9 degrees, 6.8 degrees, and almost 0 degrees. The gradual decrease of the differences in this series extending over 28 degrees of latitude is very striking. Further to the south, under the tropics, the isothermal lines are every where parallel to the equator in both hemispheres. We see, from the above examples, that the questions often asked in society, how many degrees America (without distinguishing between the eastern and western shores) is colder than Europe? and how much the mean annual temperature of Canada and the United States is lower than that of corresponding latitudes in Europe? are, when thus 'generally expressed', devoid of meaning. There is a separate difference for each parallel of latitude, and without a special comparison of the winter and summer temperatures of the opposite coasts, it will be impossible to arrive at a correct idea of climatic relations, in their influence on agriculture and other industrial pursuits, or on the individual comfort or discomfort of manking in general.

In enumerating the causes which produce disturbances in the form of the isothermal lines, I would distinguish between those which 'raise' and those which 'lower' the temperature. To the first class belong the proximity of a western coast in the temperate zone; the divided configuration of a continent into peninsulas, with deeply-indented bays and inland seas; the aspect of the position of a portion of the land with reference either to a sea of ice spreading far into the polar circle, or to a mass of continental land of considerable extent, lying in the same meridian, either under the equator, or, at least, within a portion of the tropical zone; the prevalence of southerly or westerly winds on the western shore of a continent in the temperate northern zone; chains of mountains acting as protecting salls against the winds coming from colder regions; the infrequency of swamps, which, in the spring and beginning of summer, long remain covered with ice, and the absence of woods in a dry, sandy soil; finally the constant serenity of the sky in the summer months, and the vicinity of an oceanic current, bringing water which is of a higher temperature than that of the surrounding sea.

Among the causes which tend to 'lower' the mean annual temperature I include the following: elevation above the level of the sea, when not forming part of an extended plain; the p 320 vicinity of an eastern coast in high and middle latitudes; the compact configuration of a continent having no littoral curvatures or bays; the extension of land toward the poles into the region of perpetual ice, without the intervention of a sea remaining open in the winter; a geographical position, in which the equatorial and tropical regions are occupied by the sea, and consequently, the absence, under the same meridian, of a continental tropical land having a strong capacity for the absorption and radiation of heat; mountain chains, whose mural form and direction impede the access of warm winds, the vicinity of isolated peaks, occasioning the descent of cold currents of air down their declivities; extensive woods, which hinder the isolation of the soil by the vital activity of their foliage, which produces great evaporation, owing to the extension of these organs, and increases the surface that is cooled by radiation, acting consequently in a three-fold manner, by shade, evaporation, and radiation; the frequency of swamps or marshes, which in the north form a kind of subterranean glacier in the plains, lasting till the middle of the summer; a cloudy summer sky, which weakens the action of the solar rays; and, finally, a very clear winter sky, favoring the radiation of heat.*

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Recherches sur les Causes des Inflexions des Lignes Isothermes', in 'Asie Centr.', t. iii., p. 103-114, 118, 122, 188.

The simultaneous action of these disturbing causes, whether productive of an increase or decrease of heat, determines, as the total effect, the inflection of the isothermal lines, especially with relation to the expansion and configuration of solid continental masses, as compared with the liquid oceanic. These perturbations give rise to convex and concave summits of the isothermal curves. There are, however, different orders of disturbing causes, and each one must, therefore, be considered separately, in order that their total effect may afterward be investigated with reference to the motion (direction, local curvature) of the isothermal lines, and the actions by which they are connected together, modified, destroyed, or increased in intensity, as manifested in the contact and intersection of small oscillatory movements. Such is the method by which, I hope, it may some day be possible to connect together, by empirical and numerically expressed laws, vast series of apparently isolated facts, and to exhibit the mutual dependence which must necessarily exist among them.

The trade winds — easterly winds blowing within the tropics — give rise, in both temperate zones, to the west, or west-southwest p 321 sinds which prevail in those regions, and which are land winds to eastern coasts, and sea winds to western coasts, estending over a space which, from the great mass and the sinking of its cooled particles, is not capable of any considerable degree of cooling, and hence it follows that the east winds of the Continent must be cooler than the west winds, where their temperature is not affected by the occurrence of oceanic currents near the shore. Cook's young companion on his second voyage of circumnavigation, the intelligent George Forster, to whom I am indebted for the lively interest which prompted me to undertake distant travels, was the first who drew attention, in a definite manner, to the climatic differences of temperature existing in the eastern and western coasts of both continents, and to the similarity of temperature of the western coast of North America in the middle latitudes, with that of Western Europe.*

[footnote] *George Forster, 'Klein Schriften', th. iii., 1794, s. 87; Dove, in Schumacher's 'Jahrbuch fur', s. 289; KŠmtz, 'Meteorologie', bd. ii., s. 41, 43, 67, and 96; Arago, in the 'Comptes Rendus', t. i., p. 268.

Even in northern latitudes exact observations show a striking difference between the 'mean annual temperature' of the east and west coasts of America. The mean annual temperature of Nain, in (lat. 57 degrees 10'), is fully 6.8 degrees 'below' the freezing point, while on the northwest coast, at New Archangel, in Russian America (lat. 57 degrees 3'), it is 12.4 degrees 'above' this point. At the first-named place, the mean summer temperature hardly amounts to 43 degrees, while at the latter place it is 57 degrees. Pekin (39 degrees 54'), on the eastern coast of Asia, has a mean annual tempeerature of 52.8 degrees, which is 9 degrees below that of Naples, situated somewhat further to the north. The mean winter temperature of Pekin is at least 5.4 degrees below the freezing point, while in Western Europe, even at Paris (48 degrees 50'), it is nearly 6 degrees above the freezing point. Pekin has also a mean winter cold which is 4.5 degrees lower than that of Copenhagen, lying 17 degrees further to the north.

We have already seen the slowness with which the great mass of the ocean follows the variations of temperature in the atmosphere, and how the sea acts in equalizing temperatures, moderating simultaneously the severity of winter and the heat of summer. Hence arises a second more important contrast — that, namely, between insular and littoral climates enjoyed by all articulated continents having deeply indented bays and peninsulas, and between the climate of the interior of great masses of solid land. This remarkable contrast has been fully p 322 developed by Leopold von Buch in all its various phenomena, both with respect to its influence on vegetation and agriculrure, on the transparency of the atmosphere, the radiation of the soil, and the elevation of the line of perpetual snow. In the interior of the Asiatic Continent, Tobolsk, Barnaul on the Oby, and Irkutsk, have the same mean summer heat as Berlin, Munster, and Cherbourg in Normandy, the thermometer sometimes remaining for weeks together at 86 degrees or 88 degrees, while the mean winter temperature is, during the coldest month, as low as -0.4 degrees to -4 degrees. These continental climates have therefore justly been termed 'excessive' by the great mathematician and physicist Buffon; and the inhabitants who live in countries having such 'excessive' climates seem almost condemned, as Dante expresses himself, "A sofferir tormenti caldi e geli."*

[fiitbite] *Dante, 'Divina Commedia, Purgatorio', canto iii.

In no portion of the earth, neither in the Canary Islands, in Spain, nor in the south of France, have I ever seen more luxuriant fruit, especially grapes, than in Astrachan, near the shores of the Caspian Sea (46 degrees 21'). Although the mean annual temperature is about 48¼degrees, the mean summer heat rises to 70¼degrees, as at Bordeaux, while not only there, but also further to the south, as at Kislar on the mouth of the Terek (in the latitude of Avignon and Rimini), the thermometer sinks in the winter to -13 degrees or -22 degrees.

Ireland, Guernsey, and Jersey, the peninsula of Brittany, the coasts of Normandy, and of the south of England, present, by the mildness of their winters, and by the low temperature and clouded sky of their summers, the most striking contrast to the continental climate of the interior of Eastern Europe. In the northeast of Ireland (54 degrees 56'), lying under the same parallel of latitude as Konigsberg in Prussia, the myrtle blooms as luxuriantly as in Portugal. The mean temperature of the month of August, which in Hungary rises to 70 degrees, scarcely reaches 61 degrees at Dublin, which is situated on the same isothermal line of 49 degrees; the mean winter temperature, which falls to about 28 degrees at Pesth, is 40 degrees at Dublin (whose mean annual temperature is not more than 49 degrees); 3.6 degrees higher than that of Milan, Pavia, Padua, and the whole of Lombardy, where the mean annual temperature is upward of 55¼degrees. At Stromness, in the Orkneys, scarcely half a degree further south than Stockholm, the winter temperature is 39 degrees, and consequently higher than that of Paris, and neary as high as that of London. p 323 Even in the Faroe Islands, at 62 degrees latitude, the inland waters never freeze, owing to the favoring influence of the west winds and of the sea. On the charming coasts of Devonshire, near Salcombe Bay, which has been termed, on account of the mildness of its climate, the 'Montpellier of the North', the Agave Mexicana has been seen to blossoom in the open air, while orange-trees trained against espaliers, and only slightly protected by matting, are found to bear fruit. There, as well as at Penzance and Gosport, and at Cherbourg on the coast of Normandy, the mean winter temperature exceeds 42 degrees, falling short by only 2.4 degrees of the mean winter temperature of Montpellier and Florence.*

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Sur les Lignes Isothermes', in the 'Memoires de Physique et de Chimie de la Societe d'Arcueil', t. iii., Paris, 1817, p. 143-165; Knight, in the 'Transactions of the Horticultural Society of London', vol. i, p. 32; Watson, 'Remarks on the Geographical Distribution of British Plants', 1835, p. 60; Trevelyan, in Jemieson's 'Edinburgh New Phil. Journal', No. 18, p. 154; Mahlmann in his admirable German translation of my 'Asie Centrale', th. ii., s. 60.

These observations will suffice to show the important influence exercised on vegetation and agriculture, on the cultivation of fruit, and on the comfort of mankind, by differences in the distribution of the same mean annual temperature, through the different seasons of the year.

The lines which I have termed 'Isochimenal' and 'isotheral' (lines of equal winter and equal summer temperature) are by no means parallel with the 'isothermal' lines (lines of equal annual temperature). If, for instance, in countries where myrtles grow wild, and the earth does not remain covered with snow in the winter, the temperature of the summer and autumn is barely sufficient to bring apples to perfect ripeness, and if, again, we observe that the grape rarely attains the ripeness necessary to convert it into wine, either in islands or in the vicinity of the sea, even when cultivated on a western coast, the reason must not be sought only in the low degree of summer heat, indicated, in littoral situations, by the thermometer when suspended in the shade, but likewise in another cause that has not hitherto been sufficiently considered, although it exercises an active influence on many other phenomena (as, for instance, in the inflammation of a mixture of chlorine and hydrogen), namely the difference between direct and diffused light, or that which prevails when the sky is clear and when it is overcast by mist. I long since endeavored to attract the attention of physicists and physiologists* to this p 324 difference, and to the 'unmeasured' heat which is locally developed in the living vegetable cell by the action of direct light.

[footnote] *"Haec de temperie aeris, qui terram late circumfundit, ac in quo, longe a solo, instrumenta nostra meteorologica suspensa habemus. Sed alia est caloris vis, quem radii solis nullis nubibus velati, in foliis ipsia et fructibus maturescentibus, magis minusve coloratis, gignunt, quemque, ut egregia demonstrant experimenta amicissimorum Gay-Lussacii et Thenardi de combustione chlori et hydrogenis, ope thermometri metiri nequis. Etenim locis planis et montanis, vento libe spirante, circumfusi aeris temperies cadem esse potest coelo sudo vel nebuloso; ideoque ex observationibus solis thermometricis, nullo adhibito Photometro, haud cognosces, quam ob causam Galliae septentrionalis tractur Armoricanus et Nervicus, versus littora, coe temperato sed sole raro utentia, Vitem fere non tolerant. Egent enim stirpes non solum caloris stimulo, sed et lucis, quae magis intensa locis excelsis quam planis, duplici modo plantas movet, vi sua tum propria, tum calorem in superficie earum excitante." — Humboldt, 'De Distributione Geographica Plantarum', 1817, p. 163-164.

If, in forming a thermic scale of different kinds of cultivation,* we begin with those plants which require the hottest climate, as the vanilla, the cacao, banana, and cocoa-nut, and proceed to the pine-apples, the sugar-cane, coffee, fruit-bearing date-trees, the cotton-tree, citrons, olives, edible chestnuts, and fines producing potable wine, an exact geographical consideration of the limits of cultivation, both on plains and on the declivities of mountains, will teach us that other climatic relations besides those of mean annual temperature are involved in these phenomena.

[footnote] *Humboldt, op. cit., p. 156-161; Meyen, in his 'Grundriss der Pflanzengeographie', 1836 s. 379-467; Boussingault, 'Economie Rurale', t. ii., p. 675.

Taking an example, for instance, from the cultivation of the vine, we find that, in order to procure 'potable' wine,* it is requisite that the mean annual heat should exceed 49 degrees, that the winter temperature upward of 64 degrees.

[footnote] *the following table illustrates the cultivation of the vine in Europe, and also the depreciation of its produce according to climatic relations. See my 'Asie Centrale', t. iii., p. 159. The examples quoted in the text for Bordeaux and Potsdam are, in respect of numerical relation, alike applicable to the countries of the Rhine and Maine (48 degrees 35' to 40 degrees 7' N. lat.). Cherbourg in Normandy, and Ireland, show in th most remarkable manner how, with thermal relations very nearly similar to those prevailing in the interior of the Continent (as estimated by the thermometer in the shade), the results are nevertheless extremely different as regards the ripeness or the unripeness of the fruit of the vine, this difference undoubtedly depending on the circumstance whether the vegetation of the plant proceeds under a bright sunny sky, or under a sky that is habitually obscured by clouds:

[NB Table will line up in Courier 10 point]

Places. Lat- Ele- Mean Win- Spring. Sum- Aut- Number of the it- va- of the ter. mer. umn. years of the tude tion. Year. observation

deg ' Eng.ft. Fahr.

Bordeaux 44 50 25.6 57.0 43.0 56.0 71.0 58.0 10 Stras- 48 35 479.0 49.6 34.5 50.0 64.6 50.0 35 bourg Heid- 49 24 333.5 59.5 34.0 50.0 64.3 49.7 20 elberg Manheim 49 29 300.5 50.6 34.6 50.8 67.1 49.5 12 Wurzburg 49 48 562.5 50.2 35.5 50.5 65.7 49.4 27 Frank- fort on Maine 50 7 388.5 49.5 33.3 50.0 64.4 49.4 19 Berlin 52 31 102.3 47.5 31.0 46.6 63.6 47.5 23 Cher- bourg (no wine) 49 39 .... 52.1 41.5 50.8 61.7 54.2 3 Dublin (ditto) 53 23 .... 49.1 40.2 47.1 59.6 49.7 13

The great accordance in the distribution of the annual temperature through the different seasons, as presented by the results obtained for the valleys of the Rhine and Maine, tends to confirm the accuracy of these meteorological observations. The months of December, January, and February are reckoned as winter months. When the different qualities of the wines produced in Franconia, and in the countries around the Baltic, are compared with the mean summer and autumn temperature of Wurzburg and Berlin, we are almost surprised to find a difference of only about two degrees. The difference in the spring is about four degrees. The influence of late May frosts on the flowering season, and after a correspondingly cold winter, is almost as important an element as the time of the subsequent ripening of the grape. The difference alluded to in the text between the true temperature of the surface of the ground and the indications of a thermometer suspended in the shade and protected from extraneous influences, is inferred by Dove from a consideration of the results of fifteen years' observations made at the Chiswick Gardens. See Dove, in 'Bericht uber die Verhandl. der Berl. Akad. der Wiss.', August, 1844, s. 285.

At Bordeaux, in the valley of the Garonne (44 degrees 50' lat.), the mean annual winter, summer, and autumn temperatures are respectively 57 degrees, 43 degrees, 71 degrees, and 58 degrees. In the plains near the p 325 Baltic (52 degrees 30' lat.), where a wine is produced that can scarcely be considered potable, these numbers are as follows: 47.5 degrees, 30 degrees, 63.7 degrees, and 47.5 degrees. If it should appear strange that the great differences indicated by the influence of climate on the production of wine should not be more clearly manifested by our thermometers, the circumstance will appear less singular when we remember that a thermometer standing in the shade, and protected from the effect of direct insolation and nocturnal radiation can not, at all seasong of the year, and during all periodic changes of heat, indicate the true superficial temperature of the ground exposed to the whole effect of the sun's rays.

The same relations which exist between the equable littoral climate of the peninsula of Brittany, and the lower winter and p 326 higher summer temperature of the remainder of the continent of France, are likewise manifested in some degree, between Europe and the great continent of Asia, of which the former may be considered to constitute the western peninsula. Europe owes its milder climate, in the first place, to its position with respect to Africa, whose wide extent of tropical land is favorable to the ascending current, while the equatorial region to the south of Asia is almost wholly oceanic; and next to its deeply-articulated configuration, to the vicinity of the ocean on its western shores; and, lastly, to the existence of an open sea, which bounds its northern confines. Europe would therefore become colder* if Africa were to be overflowed by the ocean; of if the mythical Atlantis were to arise and connect Europe with North America; or if the Gulf Stream were no longer to diffuse the warming influence of its waters into the North Sea; or if, finally, another mass of solid land should be upheaved by volcanic action, and interposed between the Scandinavian peninsula and Spitzbergen.

[footnote] *See my memoir, 'Ueber die Haupt-Ursachen der Temperaturverschiedenheit auf der ErdoberflŠche', in the 'Abhandl. der Akad. der Wissensch. zu Berlin von dem Jahr' 1827, s. 311.

If we observe that in Europe the mean annual temperature falls as we proceed, from west to east, under the same parallel of latitude, from the Atlantic shores of France through Germany, Poland, and Russia, toward the Uralian Mountains, the main cause of this phenomenon of increasing cold must be sought in the form of the continent (which becomes less indented, and wider, and more compact as we advance), in the increasing distance from seas, and in the diminished influence of westerly winds. Beyond the Uralian Mountains these winds are converted into cool land-winds, blowing over extended tracts covered with ice and show. The cold of western Siberia is to be ascribed to these relations of configuration and atmospheric currents, and not — as Hippocrates and Trogus Pompeius, and even celebrated travelers of the eighteenth century conjectures — to the great elevation of the soil above the level of the sea.*

[footnote] *The general level of Siberia, from Tobolsk, Tomsk, and Barnaul, from the Altai Mountains to the Polar Sea, is not so high as that of Mauheim and Dresden; indeed, Irkutsk, far to the east of the Jenisei, is only 1330 feet above the level of the sea, or about one third lower than Munich.

If we pass from the differences of temperature manifested in the plains to the inequalities of the polyhedric form of the surface of our planet, we shall have to consider mountains either in relation to their influence on the climate of neighboring p 327 valleys, or according to the effects of the hyposometrical relations on their own summits, which often spread into elevated plateaux. The division of mountains into chains separates the earth's surface into different basins, which are often narrow and walled in, forming caldron-like valleys, and (as in Greece and in part of Asia Minor) constitute an individual local climate with respect to heat, moisture, transparancy of atmosphere, and frequency of winds and storms. These circumstances have at all times exercised a powerful influence on the character and cultivation of natural products, and on the manners and institutions of neighboring nations, and even on the feelings with which they regard one another. This character of 'geographical individuality' attains its maximum, if we may be allowed so to speak, in countries where the differences in the configuration of the soil are the greatest possible, either in a vertical or horizontal direction, both in relief and in the articulation of the continent. The greatest contrast to these varieties in the relations of the surface of the earth are manifested in the Steppes of Northern Asia, the grassy plains (savannahs, llanos, and pampas) of the New Continent, the heath ('Ericeta') of Europe, and the sandy and stony deserts of Africa.

The law of the decrease of heat with the increase of elevation at different latitudes is one of the most important subjects involved in the study of meteorological processes, of the geography of plants, of the theory of terrestrial refraction, and of the various hypotheses that relate to the determination of the height of the atmosphere. In the many mountain journeys which I have undertaken, both within and without the tropics, the investigation of this law has always formed a special object of my researches.*

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Recueil d'Observations Astronomiques', t. i., p. 126-140; 'Relation Historique', t. i., p. 119, 141, 227; Biot, in 'Connaissance des Temps pour l'an' 1841, p. 90-109.

Since we have acquired a more accurate knowledge of the true relations of the distribution of heat on the surface of the earth, that is to say, of the inflections of isothermal and isotheral lines, and their unequal distance apart in the different eastern and western systems of temperature in Asia, Central Europe, and North America, we can no longer ask the general question, what fraction of the mean annual or summer temperature corresponds to the difference of one degree of geographical latitude, taken in the same meridian? In each system of 'isothermal' lines of equal curvature there reigns a p 328 close and necessary connection between three elements, namely, the decrease of heat in a vertical direction from below upward, the difference of temperature for every one degree of geographical latitude, and the uniformity in the mean temperature of a mountain station, and the latitude of a point situated at the level of the sea.

In the system of Eastern America, the mean annual temperature from the coast of Labrador to Boston changes 1.6¼degrees for every degree of latitude; from Boston to Charleston about 1.7 degrees; from Charleston to the tropic of Cancer, in Cuba, the variation is less rapid, being only 1.2 degrees. In the tropics this diminution is so much greater, that from the Havana to Cumana the variation is less than 0.4 degrees for every degree of latitude.

The case is quite different in the isothermal system of Central Europe. Between the parallels of 38 degrees and 71 degrees I found that the decrease of temperature was very regularly 0.9degrees for every degree of latitude. But as, on the other hand, in Central Europe the decrease of heat is 1.8 degrees for about every 534 feet of vertical elevation, it follows that a difference of elevation of about 267 feet corresponds to the difference of one degree of latitude. The same mean annual temperature as that occurring at the Convent of St. Bernard, at an elevation of 8173 feet, in lat. 45 degrees 50' should therefore be met with at the level of the sea in lat. 75 degrees 50'.

In that part of the Cordilleras which falls within the tropics, the observations I made at various heights, at an elevation of upward of 19,000 feet, gave a decrease of 1 degree for every 341 feet; and my friend Boussingault found, thirty years afterward, as a mean result, 319 feet. By a comparison of places in the Cordilleras, lying at an equal elevation above the level of the sea, either on the declivities of the mountains or even on extensive elevated plateaux, I observed that in the latter there was an increase in the annual temperature varying from 2.7 degrees to 4.1 degrees. This difference would be still greater if it were not for the cooling effect of nocturnal radiation. As the different climates are arranged in successive strata, the one above the other, from the cacao woods of the valleys to the region of perpetual snow, and as the temperature in the tropics varies but little throughout the year, we may form to ourselves a tolerably correct representation of the climatic relations to which the inhabitants of the large cities in the Andes are subjected, by comparing these climates with the temperatures of particular months in the plains of France and Italy. While p 329 the heat which prevails daily on the woody shores of the Orinoco exceeds by 7.2 degrees that of the month of August at Palermo, we find, on ascending the chain of the Andes, at Popayan, at an elevation of 3826 feet, the temperature of the three summer months of Marseilles; at Quito, at an elevation of 9541 feet, that of the close of May at Paris; and on the Paramos, at a height of 11,510 feet, where only stunted Alpine shrubs grow, though flowers still bloom in abundance, that of the beginning of April at Paris. The intelligent observer, Peter Martyr de Aughiera, one of the friends of Christopher Columbus, seems to have been the first who recognized (in the expedition undertaken by Rodrigo Enrique Colmenares, in October, 1510) that the limit of perpetual snow continues to ascend as we approach the equator. We read, in the fine work 'De Rebus Oceanicis',* "the River Gaira comes from a mountain in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Maria, which, according to the testimony of the companions of Colmenares, is higher than any other mountain hitherto discovered.