Hac sunt in Fossa Baedae Venerabilis Ossa

This remarkable man was contemporary with S. Cuthbert, whom, as we have said, he survived forty-eight years. His holiness and piety, together with his great learning, earned for him the title Venerable, and after his death, in 735, his bones were enshrined. Of his parentage we know nothing, except that, from his own writings, he was born in the territory of the Abbey of Wearmouth. At the age of seven he was being educated in that monastery, and by the time he was ten years old he moved to the newly-founded Abbey on the Tyne, at Jarrow. He had able and learned teachers in Benedict Bishop and Ceolfrid, and appears to have turned his advantages to the best account. Deacon at nineteen, and priest at twenty-nine years of age, he led a holy and studious life. After his ordination he wrote his "Commentaries on the Scriptures," and writings on all the known sciences—geography, arithmetic, and astronomy. The greatest work of his life is, however, his "Ecclesiastical History of the English Nation," to which we owe all our knowledge of the introduction of Christianity into Great Britain, and the early history of the English Church. It is dedicated to King Ceolwulf. His information was collected from various sources—by letter as to Canterbury, by communication with bishops and priors as to England generally, and from personal knowledge and very recent tradition as to Northumbria. He lived most of his long life between the monasteries of Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, and was buried at the latter. In the year 1022 his remains were secretly removed from Jarrow by Elfrid, who was the most unscrupulous relic-hunter of that time, who deposited a portion of them in the same coffin with those of S. Cuthbert. From here they were removed by Bishop Pudsey, and placed in the newly-erected Galilee Chapel, where he caused them to be enclosed in a magnificent shrine. "There, in a silver casket gilt with gold, hee laid the bones of Venerable Bede, and erected a costly and magnificent shrine over it."[6] When the shrine was destroyed at the suppression of the monastery, in 1542, the bones were interred beneath the place it occupied, where they remained undisturbed till the year 1831. In that year they were exhumed and examined, and, after being enclosed in a lead-lined coffin, were replaced in the tomb, with a parchment giving full details of the exhumation. Some coins and a ring which were found at this time are preserved in the Dean and Chapter Library. The inscription previously quoted was then cut on the upper slab of the tomb.

[6] "Rites of Durham."

In the Galilee Chapel is also the tomb of its restorer, Cardinal Langley, which was erected by himself in front of the principal altar. On its head may be seen three shields bearing the arms of the cardinal.

Four of the western windows of the chapel originally contained beautiful stained glass, a most careful description of which may be found in the "Rites of Durham."

Why this chapel has always been known as the "Galilee" Chapel has been the subject of much discussion and conjecture, and is still a matter of uncertainty. That it was erected for a Lady Chapel there can, however, be no doubt. In the nave of the church, between the piers immediately to the west of the north and south doorways, the visitor will notice a dark-coloured marble cross, beyond which no woman was allowed to pass eastward.

Monuments in the Nave and Transepts.—The church of Durham is not rich in tombs and monuments to the dead. This is to be accounted for partly by the fact that for some centuries the Bishops of the diocese were interred in the chapter-house, and even most of these tombs have been lost or destroyed. Another reason for the scarcity of monuments is that no layman was allowed to be buried in the church until 1367, when Lord Ralph Neville obtained that distinction for himself and his wife, the Lady Alice de Neville, who was buried in 1374. This monument occupies the third sub-bay from the east, on the south side of the nave. It is an altar tomb, and though it has suffered severely from mutilation during the unsettled times of the Reformation, sufficient remains to enable us to see that it was once a well-designed and noble monument. Its mouldings are bold, and there are indications of the places where figures were once attached to the sides. The recumbent effigies of the noble lord and his wife, on the top of the tomb, are, however, hopelessly smashed. It is probable that Lord Ralph Neville obtained this honour for himself through his services and victory at the Battle of Neville's Cross, near Durham, in 1346. In the next bay westward is the tomb of Lord John Neville, who died in 1386. This is also an altar tomb, and has suffered severely, though it remains in a better state of preservation than the one just described. Its sides each have six niches, with elaborately ornamented canopies, and containing figures, while the ends have three similar niches with figures. The carving of the canopies is exceedingly beautiful. Between each of the niches are two square panels with trefoiled heads, each panel bearing a shield with the arms of Neville and Percy. Both above and below the niches much delicate carving may be noticed. Surmounting all are the broken effigies of Lord John and his wife, who was the daughter of Lord Henry Percy, the well-known Hotspur. All the figures on this tomb, including the recumbent figures, are headless, but sufficient remains to show that they were of great excellence. Remains of colouring and gilding can also be distinguished in places on the monument.

Close to this is the slab and matrix of a brass to Robert Neville, who was bishop of the diocese from 1438 to 1457. The brass has all been removed, but the matrix shows a dignified figure of the bishop holding a crozier and a scroll, while an inscription formerly existed on a plate at his feet. Bishop Neville was known for his generous qualities, as well as for his high descent.

In the western wall, on its south side, near to the entrance to the Galilee, is a mural tablet to a former Prebendary in the cathedral, and a well-known antiquary, Sir George Wheler, who died in the latter part of the seventeenth century. On the northern side is a slab to the memory of Captain R.M. Hunter, who was killed while charging a Sikh battery at Ferozeshah.

Opposite to the monument of Ralph Neville is a modern altar tomb to a former headmaster of Durham Grammar School, the Rev. James Britton, D.D., erected by his pupils. It is surmounted by a reclining figure of Dr. Britton, in academic robes, reading a book.

In the south transept is a fine monument, by Chantrey, to the memory of Bishop Barrington, who held the see from 1791 to 1826, dying at the advanced age of 92 years, beloved by all. He was a great prelate, and used his immense powers as Prince Palatine with great wisdom. The kneeling figure, with bowed head, the left hand resting on a book, in an attitude of deep reverence, is worthy of the name of its sculptor. On the west wall of the same transept is a tablet to the memory of the officers, non-commissioned officers, and privates of the Durham Light Infantry who were slain or died during the Crimean War.

Near to this is a recently inserted brass to the memory of the officers and men of the 2nd Durham Regiment who died in Egypt and the Soudan.

In the north transept we may give some attention to a monument to the Rev. John Carr, a former headmaster of Durham School. It was erected to his memory by his pupils. The monument was designed by Rickman, and is in the style known as Decorated Gothic.



The Font stands at the west end of the nave. It is a comparatively modern work, covered by a tall wooden canopy which was erected by Bishop Cosin in 1663. The original Norman font was destroyed by the Scottish prisoners in 1650, and was replaced by a large marble basin by Bishop Cosin. This font, in its turn, was removed to Pittington Church, where it is now in use, its place being filled by the present modern one. It is designed in the Norman style, and is square, supported on short columns. The sides are carved with medallions, copied from illuminated MSS., which represent scenes from the life of S. Cuthbert. The cover deserves attention as a specimen of the woodwork of the seventeenth century, exhibiting a curious and characteristic mixture of Classic and Gothic forms and details.



CHAPTER IV

HISTORY OF THE SEE

The earlier history of the see of Durham has already been referred to in order to lead up to the founding of the cathedral. We have seen how the bishop and monks of Lindisfarne fled and wandered with the relics of their beloved S. Cuthbert, eventually settling at Chester-le-Street, until, in the year 990, Bishop Aldhun, in terror of the Danes, again fled southward to Ripon. The country at this time was ruled by that weak monarch, Ethelred the Unready, and the Danes, finding no determined opposition, continually made piratical incursions, and eventually, through the treachery of three chieftains, the Castle of Bamburgh fell into their hands. After an interval of three or four months peace was made with the invaders, and Aldhun and his monks ventured to return towards Chester-le-Street. It was during this journey, at a place called Wredelau, that the car carrying the saint stuck fast, and the incidents previously related occurred, which led to the founding of the Bishopric of Durham.

Aldhun may therefore be called the first Bishop of Durham. He held the see for twenty-nine years, and died in 1018. Aldhun it was who built the first or White Church, now destroyed. It is extremely probable that some of the stones of this church were used in the foundations of Carileph's choir and apses.

After Aldhun's death the see remained vacant for three years, when he was succeeded by

Edmund (1020-1040). It is said that the monks could not agree as to who should succeed Aldhun, when one day Edmund, a presbyter, asked in a joke, "Why not appoint me?" Being a pious and a faithful man, they took him at his word, and, after much persuasion and fasting and prayer, he was consecrated. The choice was a good one. Edmund was an energetic and beloved prelate. He died at Gloucester in 1041. One of the most important events during his episcopate was the invasion of Northumbria by Duncan, King of the Scots. He besieged Durham, but was beaten off, with great slaughter, and the heads of many of his men were exposed in the market-place.

Egelric (1042-1056) was the next bishop. He was an alien, and made himself obnoxious to the clergy and people. With the intention of rebuilding, he pulled down the wooden church at Chester-le-Street, which had been the seat of the bishopric for one hundred and thirteen years. A large quantity of treasure was found while digging foundations, and this Egelric appropriated and sent to his monastery at Peterborough, where he soon followed it. Before resigning the see of Durham, however, he secured the appointment of his brother to the bishopric. Some years later William the Conqueror called him to account for his behaviour in the matter of the treasure, and threw him into prison at Westminster, where he died in 1072.

Egelwin (1056-1071) succeeded, through the influence of his brother. He took part in the rebellion of Eadwin and Morcar, and, like his predecessor, died in prison. He was the last of the Saxon bishops.

Walcher (1071-1080). William I. found the Church in great disorder and made many changes. He filled most of the sees by the appointment of Norman bishops. To Durham he elected Walcher. The latter was a man of gentle disposition, but his chaplain, Leobwin, and Gilbert, a kinsman of his own, to whom he entrusted most of his affairs, were hated by the people, over whom they exercised great tyranny. At length a noble, named Lyulph, ventured to remonstrate with them, and in their rage they had him assassinated. The people were furious, and the bishop vainly denied any knowledge of the deed. He called a meeting at Gateshead. Here a tremendous tumult arose, the mob crying, "Good rede, short rede, slay ye the bishop," and eventually setting fire to the church. The bishop was eventually reduced to a choice of facing the mob or being burnt in the church. He chose the former, and, covering his face with his robe, went out. He was immediately slain on the threshold, and dreadfully mutilated. His body was removed by the monks to Jarrow, and afterwards to Durham, where he was buried.

William of S. Carileph (1080-1096) was next appointed bishop. He was a man of great attainments. To him we owe the founding of the present cathedral. Carileph also made an important change, by the removal from Durham of the secular clergy, and their replacement by Benedictine monks drawn from Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. The foundations of the new church were laid on 29th July 1093, the Bishop and Prior Turgot being present. He did not live to see it very far advanced, being taken ill at Windsor. He died about Christmas 1096.

Ranulph Flambard (1099-1128).—The see was kept vacant for three years by William Rufus, when he appointed Flambard, a great builder. He built the nave and aisles, the west doorway and lower part of the western towers, and vaulted the aisles. He also built Framwellgate Bridge over the Wear at Durham, erected and endowed S. Giles' Church, Durham, and was the founder of Norham Castle on the Tweed.

Galfrid Rufus (1133-1140) was his successor. His episcopate was much disturbed by wars with the Scots. The chapter-house was finished during his time of office.

William de S. Barbara (1143-1152) was next appointed. Extraordinary events marked his election. William Cumin, chancellor of the Scottish king, attempted to take the bishopric for himself, and succeeded so far as to capture the castle with the aid of the Scots. The rightful bishop was not able to gain possession for sixteen months after his election. Cumin submitted in 1144.



Hugh Pudsey (1153-1195) now succeeded to the bishopric at the age of twenty-five. He bought for life the earldom of Northumberland and the manor of Sadberg. In 1187 the news of the capture of Jerusalem by the Saracens spread consternation in the Church, and Pudsey prepared to accompany King Henry to the East. He fitted out ships and galleys in a most sumptuous manner, his own having a seat for himself of solid silver. Neither he nor King Henry embarked in the crusade, however. The king died, and Richard his son undertook the expedition, leaving Bishop Pudsey and Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, as justiciaries for the northern and southern portions of the kingdom respectively. These two quarrelled, and Pudsey was decoyed to London by Longchamp, and committed to the Tower. He soon obtained his release, but was compelled to resign the earldom of Northumberland. In 1195 he undertook a journey to London to see the king, and endeavour to obtain restitution of his honours and possessions, but was taken ill, and died on the way, at Howden. His work in the cathedral we have seen. He also built the great hall of the castle, most of the beautiful Church of S. Cuthbert at Darlington, and the Elvet Bridge over the Wear at Durham, and founded the hospital at Sherburn, near Durham. Darlington Church, which would well repay a visit, is a fine specimen of Early Pointed architecture, second only to the Galilee of Durham, the two showing in a wonderful manner the rapid development of the change which was taking place in architectural style during Pudsey's time.

Philip de Pictavia (1197-1208), elected at the urgent request of the king. He was continually at loggerheads with his clergy. He supported King John against the Pope, and was for this excommunicated; died in 1208, and was buried in unconsecrated ground. This bishop is said to have had the permission of the king to coin money at Durham.

Richard de Marisco (1217-1226) was elected after an interval of nearly ten years. The feud with the monks continued during his episcopate, and the bishop swore the Church of Durham should have no peace while he lived; threatened that if a monk should show himself beyond his cloister he should lose his head; and once, when his servants had beaten a monk, and the man complained, he replied that it was a pity they did not kill him. He died at Peterborough in 1226.

Richard le Poore (1229-1237), who was the next bishop, elected after the see had been vacant two years and four months, was translated from Salisbury, where he had commenced building the new cathedral. He ended the dispute between the monks and the Bishop of Durham by an agreement known as "Le Convenit."

Nicholas de Farnham (1241-1248) became bishop after a three years' dispute with the king. He resigned in 1248.

Walter de Kirkham (1249-1260), Dean of York, was next elected.

Robert de Stitchill (1261-1274), Prior of Finchale, succeeded him. Dissensions again arose between the bishop and the monks. He died on his return from France, where he had attended a council at Lyons. He was buried in a monastery in France, but his heart was brought to Durham, and buried in the chapter-house.

Robert de Insula (1274-1283), a native of Holy Island, as his name suggests, was then elected bishop. His tenure of office was peaceful.



Anthony Bek (1283-1310). The next bishop was of noble birth, the son of Walter Bek, Baron of Eresby, in Lincolnshire. He took part with Edward I. in his expedition to Scotland, and, being very wealthy, was of great assistance to the king. His following consisted of twenty-six standard bearers, one hundred and forty knights, and an army of five thousand foot and five hundred horse. He was employed by the king, with success, in many important State matters. In the year 1300 trouble again arose with the monks. Some of them being dissatisfied with the Prior Hotoun, the bishop proposed to hold a visitation. The prior refusing to admit him unless he came unattended, the bishop deposed and excommunicated him. The convent took sides, some with the bishop and some with the prior, and it was only on the interference of the king that a partial peace was restored. The quarrel soon reopened. Some men made a complaint against the bishop. He had compelled them to take arms under him in the Scottish war, and had imprisoned some who had returned without leave. The barons upheld the men, and it led to them taking sides with Prior Hotoun in his dispute. The bishop, calling the monks together, ordered them to elect a new prior, which they promptly refused to do. On this the bishop appointed Henry de Luceby of Holy Island to be prior of Durham, and brought men from Weardale and Tynedale to expel the old prior. They laid siege to the convent, and for three days Prior Hotoun and forty-six monks were shut up with only six loaves and sixteen herrings. They continued the services however. On the third day a Tynedale man was sent to pull the prior out of his stall, but was so awed by his venerable appearance that he dared not touch him. A monk on the bishop's side, however, did the work. Prior Luceby was installed, and Prior Richard seized and imprisoned. He soon escaped, however, and carried his complaint before Parliament, and afterwards to the Pope, Boniface VIII. The Pope decided in his favour, and Hotoun returned to Durham, and Luceby and his friends were obliged to go, though they tried, when doing so, to carry off some silver plate and other valuables. Bek continued in great splendour until his death in 1310. When he died he was king of the Isle of Man, Patriarch of Jerusalem, Bishop of Durham, and Prince Palatine.

Richard de Kellaw (1311-1316), formerly a monk of Durham, succeeded Bek. He was a good and learned man, and lived in harmony with the monks.

Louis de Beaumont (1318-1333) was next appointed bishop, after great competition and intrigue. He was chosen in opposition to the wishes of the chapter, who had elected Stamford, Prior of Finchale, to succeed Kellaw. On his way to Durham for consecration and enthronement, accompanied by two cardinals and a large retinue, he was waylaid at Rushyford by a band of ruffians under Gilbert Middleton. They plundered the cardinals, but carried the bishop a prisoner to Mitford Castle. His release was only secured on payment by the monastery of a heavy ransom. He was an ignorant man, and so innocent of Latin that he could not read his profession of obedience, being continually prompted. Later, at an ordination, he stumbled over the words "in oenigmate" and cried in French, "Par Seynt Lewis, il ne fuit pas curtays qui cest parole ici escrit." "By Saint Lewis he was no gentleman who wrote this word."

Richard de Bury (1333-1345), who succeeded, was a great scholar, tutor to Edward III., and author of "Philobiblon," a book still extant. He was a good man, and very kind to the poor.

Thomas de Hatfield (1345-1381) was, like Bishop Bek, a warrior ecclesiastic. Soon after his election he led eighty archers to the siege of Calais. His episcopate was notable for the wars with the Scots, and the great victory obtained over them, with the capture of King David and many nobles, at Neville's Cross, near Durham. Fifteen thousand Scots were slain. The victory was attributed to the presence of the sacred banner of S. Cuthbert, which Prior John Fossor took to a place near the battlefield, kneeling in prayer the while for success. A hymn of thanksgiving was appointed to be sung on the top of the cathedral tower on each anniversary of the battle. This custom is still carried out, though the day has been changed to the twenty-ninth of May. Hatfield was a liberal supporter of Durham College at Oxford. He erected his own tomb in the choir of the cathedral, in which he was afterwards buried.

John Fordham (1381-1388), secretary to Richard II., and Canon of York, was next elected. Suspected of giving bad advice to the king, he was compelled to resign, but was given the inferior bishopric of Ely, where he lived to extreme old age, dying in 1425.

Walter de Skirlaw (1388-1405), translated from Bath and Wells, was a munificent prelate. He built bridges at Shincliffe, Bishop Auckland, and Yarm; a refuge tower, a beautiful chapter-house (now in ruins) at Howden; and was a large contributor to the expense of building the central tower of York Cathedral. His work in the building of the cloisters of Durham has already been referred to.

Thomas Langley (1406-1437) succeeded. He was Chancellor of England, Dean of York, and in 1411 was made a cardinal. He occupied the see during part of the reign of Henry IV., the whole of that of Henry V., and fifteen years of that of Henry VI. He founded two schools on the Palace Green at Durham, and in his will left collections of books to many colleges.

Robert Neville (1437-1457), son of the Earl of Westmoreland and his wife Joan, who was a daughter of John of Gaunt. He was therefore uncle of the Earl of Warwick, the "king-maker" of Richard III. and of Edward IV. He had a peaceful episcopate of nineteen years, and was buried in the cathedral, in the south aisle near his ancestors.

Laurance Booth (1457-1476), Canon of York and Lichfield, Archdeacon of Richmond, and Dean of S. Paul's, was the next bishop. He was a supporter of the House of Lancaster. He was translated to the archbishopric of York in 1476, the first of the bishops of Durham who was raised to that dignity.

William Dudley (1476-1483), Dean of Windsor, succeeded him.

John Sherwood (1483-1494), who was appointed next, was a learned man, and made a large collection of Greek manuscripts. He died in Rome in 1494.

Richard Fox (1494-1501) was translated from Bath and Wells after the see had remained vacant for eleven months. Nothing of particular moment occurred during his episcopate. He was an early patron and helper of Wolsey, and lived to regret having assisted him. He made alterations in the castle at Durham. He was translated to the see of Winchester in 1501, and died in 1528.

William Sinews or Sever (1502-1505), translated from Carlisle. He is said to have been the son of a sieve-maker at Shincliffe, near Durham.

Christopher Bainbridge (1507-1508), Dean of York, was next elected, and after an episcopate of one year was translated to York. In 1511 he was sent to Rome as ambassador by Henry VIII., and while there was created cardinal. He died in Rome, poisoned by a servant whom he had struck in anger.

Thomas Ruthall (1509-1522), Dean of Salisbury, was the next bishop. He was immensely wealthy, and his love of money brought him into disgrace. King Henry commanded him to draw up an account of the lands and revenues of the Crown. The bishop, in error, sent to the king the wrong book, in which was set forth an account of his own possessions. The king, though tampered with by Wolsey, made no use of the knowledge thus obtained. But the affair rankled in the mind of the bishop, and is said to have hastened his death.

Thomas Wolsey (1522-1528) was appointed to succeed him. The famous cardinal held the see for six years, as well as that of York. During the whole of his episcopate he never visited Durham, and in 1528 he resigned it for the see of Winchester.

Cuthbert Tunstall (1530-1559) was translated from London by a Papal Bull, the last used for this purpose. Tunstall was a remarkable man, and he occupied the see during an important period of Church history, the Reformation, all the stages of which he saw. During his episcopacy, the great privileges of the bishops of Durham as Princes Palatine were very much curtailed. In 1526, while Tunstall was Bishop of London, the English translation of the New Testament by Tyndall appeared, causing great alarm among the clergy. The part played by Tunstall in relation to this is well known. He opposed the supremacy of King Henry as head of the Church, but eventually gave up the struggle and preached in its favour. The monastery of Durham was suppressed in 1540, and a dean and twelve canons appointed. Soon after the accession of Edward VI., Bishop Tunstall was committed to the Tower and deprived of his see, on a charge of having encouraged rebellion in the north. On the accession of Mary to the throne he was released and restored, but there would seem to be no grounds for supposing that he took any part in the cruelties practised during her reign. When Elizabeth became queen, Tunstall refused to take the oath, and was again deprived of his see, and, being now an old man, was committed to the custody of his friend Archbishop Parker (Canterbury), with whom he lived till his death in 1559. He was a scholarly prelate, of a kindly nature, and was held in universal esteem.

James Pilkington (1560-1575) left the buildings of the see in a ruinous condition.

Richard Barnes (1575-1587), translated from Carlisle. He is said to have been removed to Durham in order to spy upon the correspondence and messengers of the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots.

Matthew Hutton (1589-1594), Dean of York, was the next bishop. A man of great learning, and considered one of the best preachers of his day. He was translated to York in 1594.

Tobias Matthew (1595-1606), Dean of Durham, was his successor. He was also a great preacher, and was celebrated for his wit. He was translated to York.

William James (1606-1617), Dean of Durham, was next elected.

Richard Neile (1617-1627) was translated from Lincoln. He was remarkable as being the only bishop who held six sees successively—viz. 1608, Rochester; 1610, Lichfield; 1613, Lincoln; 1617, Durham; 1627, Winchester; and 1631, Archbishop of York. He did much to help forward men of learning and ability by giving them preferment in his see, and reserving apartments for their use in Durham House, London, which became known as Durham College. He spent large sums of money on repairs to the buildings at Durham.

George Monteigne (1628), Bishop of London, only held the see of Durham for three months, when he was translated to York.

John Howson (1628-1631), Bishop of Oxford, held the see for two years, and died in 1631.

Thomas Morton (1632-1659), translated from Lichfield. The North of England was much disturbed in 1640 by the invasion of the Scots, and Bishop Morton fled—first to Stockton, afterwards to York—and never returned to his diocese. The successful Scots levied heavy taxes on the district for the maintenance of their troops, as much as L850 a day being demanded. In 1646, Episcopacy was abolished, and the estates of the bishops ordered to be sold. Thus we find at Durham the castle sold to the Mayor of London for L1267 and Durham, Borough, and Framwellgate disposed of to the Corporation for L200. The bishop lived a life of suffering in London, cared for by his friends, till his death in 1659, at the age of ninety-four. During his episcopate, in 1656, Oliver Cromwell arranged for the founding of a college in Durham, but his death prevented him carrying out his scheme. His son, however, did so, and it flourished until the Restoration, which, by giving back property to its rightful owners, put an end to its existence.

John Cosin (1660-1671), Canon of Durham, was the first bishop after the Restoration. He was a most munificent prelate, leaving many charitable bequests. He spent large sums in the restoration of the cathedral and castle and the palace at Bishop Auckland. He built a hospital for eight poor people, and erected a library on the palace green.

Nathaniel Crewe (1642-1722), translated from Oxford. He was a strong supporter of King James II., but afterwards took the oath of allegiance to William and Mary. He was noted for his charity and munificence, and left large sums to the poor, and in scholarships tenable by natives of Durham.

William Talbot (1722-1730), translated from Salisbury.

Edward Chandler (1730-1750), Bishop of Lichfield, was next elected. He gave L2000 to be laid out for the benefit of the widows of clergymen of his diocese.

Joseph Butler (1750-1752) was translated from Bristol. He is best known as the author of "The Analogy of Religion, Natural and Revealed."

Richard Trevor (1752-1771), Bishop of S. David's, a learned, pious, and unostentatious man. He left L200 in his will to the poor of Durham and Auckland.

John Egerton (1771-1787), Bishop of Lichfield, was next elected. He married the daughter of Henry, Duke of Kent, and his eldest son afterwards became Earl of Bridgewater.

Thomas Thurlow (1787-1791) was translated to Durham from Lincoln. He was brother of the Lord Chancellor.

Shute Barrington (1791-1826) was the next bishop, having previously held the sees of Llandaff and Salisbury. A most beneficent prelate; his charities, especially those for the founding of schools and augmentation of poor livings, were magnificent. During his episcopacy, external repairs to the cathedral having become absolutely necessary, James Wyatt, who had already done such mischief at Salisbury, was given charge of the work. Then it was that the paring process, spoken of previously, was completed, the chapter-house destroyed, and the Galilee Chapel only saved from destruction by the intervention of Dean Cornwallis. Wyatt's other wild schemes, to extend the choir eastwards, to the utter ruin of the Nine Altar Chapel, to remove the beautiful Neville screen, and surmount the central tower of the church by a spire, were happily checked in time, or there is no saying to what extent the building would have been mutilated. Bishop Barrington died in London, in his ninety-third year.

William Van Mildert (1826-1836), Bishop of Llandaff, succeeded to the see. During his episcopate, many important changes were made. The Ecclesiastical Commission, appointed in 1833, to consider in what manner the funds of the Church might be made more available for the purposes for which they were intended, decided to give future bishops a fixed yearly payment, and to reduce the number of canons from twelve to six. On the appointment of a new bishop, the Palatinate was to be annexed by the State. Thus Van Mildert was the last Count Palatine. Before these changes came into force, however, the bishop and the dean and chapter founded and endowed the university out of the revenues of the see, for the use of which the bishop gave up the castle. Bishop Van Mildert was a man of great charity, and though his income was immense, he died comparatively poor. He died in February 1836, and was interred in the chapel of the Nine Altars.

Edward Maltby (1836-1856), his successor, was translated from Chichester, and held the see for twenty years, when, owing to advanced age and increasing infirmity, he resigned in 1856.

Charles Thomas Longley (1856-1860), first Bishop of Ripon, was next elected. He was a popular and much-beloved prelate. In 1860 he was created Archbishop of York, and two years later was translated to Canterbury.

Hon. Henry Montague Villiers (1860-1861) was translated from Carlisle. A fine preacher, his episcopate was all too short. He died, after much suffering, in 1861.

Charles Baring (1861-1878), Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, succeeded him. A man of unbounded charity and goodness, he won the affection of all who knew him personally. He was compelled, through illness, to resign the see in 1878, and did not long survive his retirement.

Joseph Barber Lightfoot (1879-1889) was then elected to the see. A man of scholarly attainments, he is still too well known and remembered to need any detailed note. He came to Durham pledged to accomplish as soon as possible the division of the diocese, which promise he carried out by restoring the suppressed see of Hexham to Newcastle-on-Tyne. A fine tomb to the memory of Dr Lightfoot has been placed on the north side of the choir of the cathedral, and as a memorial of his episcopate the mutilated chapter-house has been restored.

The present bishop is the Right Rev. Brooke Foss Westcott, D.D.

* * * * *

In this place may conveniently be given the rough draft of the settlement of the see by King Henry VIII. at the Reformation. Although departed from in many instances, it throws a curious light on the king's intentions to keep up some semblance of a conventual institution with an active educational purpose.

DURESME.

[Fol. 30.] Duresme cum Cellis. /

First a provoste of the College cc li. Item xii prebendaryes and the moste parte of theym preachers vi of them 1 markes and vi of them xxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. by the yere ccclx li. Item a Reader of humanytie in greke by the yere xx li. Item a Reader of dyvynytie in hebrewe by the yere xx li. Item a Reader bothe of devynytie and humanytie by the yere xx li. Item a Reader of physyke xx li. Item lx scollers to be tawghte both gramer and logyke in hebrewe greke and lattyn every of them by the yere iii li. vi s. viii d. cc li. Item xx studyentes in dyvynytie to be founde x att Oxenford, and x att Cambryge every of them by the yere x li. cc li. Item a Scolmaster for the same Scollers xx li. Item an ussher x li. Item viii petycanons to synge and serve in the quere every of them x li. by the yere xxiiii li. Item x laye men to synge and serve also in the quyre every of them by yere vi li. xiii s. iiii d. lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. Item x Chorysters every of them by the yere fyve marks xxxiii li. vi s. viii d. Item a master of the Chylderne x li. Item a Gospeller vi li. Item a pysteller v li. Item ii sextens vi li. xiii s. iiii d. Item xii poore men beynge olde servynge men decayed by warres or in the Kyng's servyce every of them vi li. xiii s. iiii d. by yere lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.

[Fol. 30. dors.]

Item yearly to be distrybuted in almes to poore house-holders lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. Item for yearly reparacions lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. Item to be employed yerely in makynge and mendynge of hyghewayes lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. Item to a Steward of the Landes vi li. xiii s. iiii d. Item to an Audytor x li. Item to ii porters to kepe the gates and shave the Company x li. Item to one cheyf Butler for hys wages and dyete iiii li. xiiis. iiiid. Item to an under Butler for hys wages and dyete iii li. vis. viiid. Item one Cheyf Cooke for hys wages and dyete iiii li. xiiis. iiiid. Item oone Under Coke for hys wages and dyete iii li. vi s. viii d. Item for the provostes expences in receyvyng the Rentes and surveyeng the landes by yere x li. Item to a Cato^r to bye there dyetes for his wages and dyete and makynge hys bockes of reconyngs by the yere vi li. xiiis. iiiid.

[Fol. 31.]

xx Duresme M^lDCiiii viii^{li} xi^s viii^d. xx Porciones deductae M^lDiiii xiii^{li} xiii^s iiii^d. Reman' lxxxxiiii^{li} xviii^s iii^d.

[Fol. 32.]

A proporcion for mayntenance of Hospitalite Lernynge Dyvine Service Almes and other necessarie Expences in the Cathedrall Churche of Duresme to be erectyd foundyd and establysshed by the King's Majesties goodnes.

xx Sm^a M^lDCiiii viii^{li} xis. viii d.

HOSPITALITE.

The dean cclxiii li. x s.—Prebend' xxxii li. vi s. viii d. Corpus of the deane and prebendaries.

Fyrste for the Deane for the corpus of his promotion which he shall certaynlye receyve and accordinge wherunto he shall paye the tenthes and fyrst frutes xl li.

Item to twelve prebendaries iche of them for the corpus of his promotion viii^{li} which he shall receyve certaynly by yere and accordinge whereunto he shall paye the tenthes and fyrste xx fruytes iiii xvi li.

Sm^a cxxxvi^{li}

DISTRIBUTIONS.

DCxxx li. xiii s. i d. -^ Item to the deane for every daie of his residence to be payd by waie of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession xii s. v d. to be paid out of the same common possession which amountyth in the yere ccxxvi li. xii s. i d. Item to eche prebendarye for every daie of his residence to be payd by waie of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession xvi^d ob. over and besydes iiii s. ix d. ob. to be payd to every of the prebendaries out of the same common possession which in the hole yere amountith to the twelve said prebendaries to the Summe ccciiii li.-^

[Fol. 32 dors.]

LEARNINGE.

ccxxx li. vi s. viii d. - cciii^{li} xiii iiii. ^ Item a reader in divinite for his yerely stypende to be paid of the common possession xxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. Item to twelve scolers to be found at the Universite off Oxforde every of them ix li. xi s. viii d. by yere cxv li. Item to xviii scolers to be taught Gramer Greke and Latyn every of them iiii li. by yere lxxii li. Item to a scolemaster for the same scolars x li. Item to an ussher for them vi li. xiii s. iiii d.-^

DYVINE SERVICE.

ccci^{li} ^ Item to twelve petycanons eche of them x li. by yere for ther dyet and wagys cxx li. Item to tenne laymen syngars eche of them to have yerely for their dyet and wagys vi li. xiii s. iiii d. lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. Item to tenne Choristers eche of them lxvi s. viii d. xxiii li. vi. s. viii d. Item for a master to the Children for his dyet and wagys x. li. Item to a Gospeller and Epistoler eche of them vi li. xiiis. iiiid. Item to twoo sextens xii li. Item to a Cator vi li. xiii s. iiii d. Item to twoo buttellers xii li. Item to two Cookes xii li. Item to thre other commen servaantes as portor and ryngars eche of them v li. xv li.-^

[Fol. 33.]

ALMES.

Item to eyght poore men eche of them yerely vi li. xiii. s. iiii d. liii li. vi s. viii d. Item to be yerely distributed in almes to householders xvi li. xiii s. iiii d. Item to be yerely spente in mendynge of hyghways xx li.-^

EXPENCES NECESSARIE.

xx ciiii iiii li. xv s. x d. + -^-+ Item for yerely reparacions by Estymation. cxxxi li. viii s. v d. Item in exspences yerely in surveynge the landes and receyvinge the Rentes xx li. Item in expences for wyne and wax xiii li. vi s. viii d. Item to a Stewarde of landes for his fee x li. Item to an Auditor x li.-+

xx xx Sum of the common M^lCCCiiii vi li. xiii s. xd. M^lCCCCiiiixvi^{li} xv d. Sum totall of all thies percels M^lDxxii^{li} xiii^s x^d.

Above which chargys the church indewyd with landes to susteyne the same muste pay yerely tenthes and a certayne summe by composition for the fyrste frutes deducted and abbayted. Cxxxvi li. payd by the deane and prebendaries severall. cxl li. to be allowyd by statute for almes. x li. for the stewarde allowyd by statute. x li. for the Auditors fee allowyd by statute. xx The hole sume of deductions CCiiii xvi li. And so remaynes chargeable with tenthes and fyrst frutes M^lCCxxvi li. xiii s. x d.



[Sidenote: ]

[Fol. 33. dors.] ccxvi li. ix s. vi d. -^- Whereof to be payd for the tenthes of the commen possession cxliiii li. vi s. iiii d. Item a yerely Rent to be payd by composition for the fyrste frutes lxxii li. xii s. iid.-^

And so the Cathedrale Churche for mayntenance of the said yerely charges and paymente touchinge hospitalite lernynge divine service almes necessarie exspences tenthes and fyrst frutes after the Rates before mentionyd must yf the said shall lyke the Kings majestic be indewyd with yerely Revenues of the summe of M^lDCCxxxix^{li} xiii s. iiii d. MDCCxii li. x s.



CHAPTER V

THE CASTLE AND UNIVERSITY

No notice of Durham and its cathedral would seem complete without some mention being made of its fortress, the growth of which has been contemporary with, and, we might almost say, inseparable from that of the monastery itself.

There can be little doubt that other than the miraculous considerations assigned to them by tradition influenced the monks and the congregation of S. Cuthbert in their final choice of a resting-place for the bones of their beloved saint. The almost impregnable position of the rocky promontory upon which both Cathedral and Castle stand suggests a careful selection on their part, with a view to the prevention of attack and consequent further disturbance of their sacred relics. What the first fortification was is a matter of doubt; most probably it was merely a wall or rampart of earth, with a large artificial mound at the weakest point. This seems to have been the usual practice at an early date at many other places in England, and in some cases their date is known and corresponds to the time at which Durham was probably first fortified. Whatever the earliest protections were, we know that in 1072 William the Conqueror, on his way from Scotland, passed through Durham. He quickly perceived the natural advantages and strength of the position, and gave orders for the erection of a castle. This was at once set about, during the episcopacy of Bishop Walcher, and continued under Carileph and Flambard. Of this building, which might be styled "The Conqueror's Castle," not much remains. The most important is the Chapel or Crypt, which belongs, no doubt, to the earlier part of the period named (1080 to 1096). In plan the chapel has a nave and two aisles. The roof is vaulted, the ribs being plain, semi-circular, and square recessed, and is supported by six circular columns. The capitals of these columns are a somewhat interesting feature, owing to their Lombardic character. The abaci are square and moulded, while the caps proper carry at their angles rudely carved volutes such as occur in the White Tower, London. Each capital is also carved differently with curious and rude devices. Of the three windows which terminated the nave and aisle at the east end, one has been destroyed to make way for a staircase and the other two are built up. The original windows of the chapel were very narrow and widely splayed. In the walls are an aumbrey and the remains of two altars.



Other remains of this date are somewhat scattered. Two windows in the undercroft of Bishop Bek's, or what is now known as Bishop Hatfield's Hall, are examples. They have converging jambs, the semi-circular heads being cut from one stone and the inside very widely splayed. The wall from the keep to the chapel, and that from the keep to the gateway are also Norman work, as are also portions of the gateway itself.

The next important changes in the castle were made by Bishop Pudsey, 1153-1195, who not only repaired the existing work but built a hall, known as Pudsey's Hall. Although this hall has now almost entirely disappeared, through repairs and alterations, sufficient evidence as to its whereabouts and general plan is forthcoming. It was of two storeys, the lower and upper halls. Entrance to the lower hall was originally gained by a staircase which led from the courtyard to the splendid doorway now enclosed in Tunstall's Gallery. This magnificent entrance having been covered with lath and plaster, and for long completely forgotten, was unearthed by, and at the expense of Bishop Barrington, early in the present century. It is in good preservation and is a splendid specimen of rich Norman architecture. It consists of five orders, all richly carved and moulded. Three orders rest on carved capitals and shafts, and two are carried down the jambs of the doorway. The stairway has entirely disappeared, but there is little room to doubt that it would be of much the same character as that in the close at Canterbury; and to the protection afforded by the staircase roof, we are, no doubt, indebted for the good preservation of the arch mouldings of the doorway itself.

What was originally Pudsey's Upper Hall is now styled the Norman Gallery. The greater portion of this gallery is at the present time divided into chambers of residence for the students of the university. It is reached by the Black Staircase and a doorway in the Early English Gothic style. The interior of the south and west walls are enriched by arcades in groups of three, the central bay of each of which is larger than those flanking it, and is pierced by a window. The arches of the arcade rest on shafts and cushion capitals, and are carved with chevron ornament. The whole arrangement hereabouts bears the impress of having been a portion of one great building, which an examination of the roof, lead, and general outline makes even more certain.

On the western side of the courtyard stands the great Bek's Hall, built by the bishop of that name. It is above the Norman undercroft, previously mentioned. Much of its original character is now lost, owing to restorations, curtailments, and alterations. Bek's doorway is still in existence, though much hidden by the porch erected later by Bishop Cosin. It has a pointed arch of two orders, with detached shafts in the jambs. Another original relic, unrestored, is part of the window nearest the fireplace, which is valuable as evidence of the date of the erection of the hall. The tracery is geometrical, and the shafts in the angles of the splays are banded. About the year 1350 Bishop Hatfield enlarged and altered Bek's hall. At the west end he inserted two light windows, which are now blocked, though the tracery may be seen from students' rooms inside, and partly from the outside. The open oak roof, with the exception of some necessary later repairs, is of Bishop Hatfield's time. Hatfield repaired and altered Pudsey's upper hall by the addition of east and west windows, and probably a new roof. He also rebuilt the Keep, which time and war had greatly injured. The existing keep, which was erected in 1840, is similar to Hatfield's, and in many places stands upon the old foundations. It is now used entirely as apartments for students of University College.

Bishop Fox (1494-1501) is responsible for the next important changes. He curtailed the great hall by a partition wall near its south end, which still exists. The wall bears his badge in two places—a pelican feeding her young with blood from her breast. He also adapted part of Pudsey's buildings, near the south-west corner of the castle, to the purposes of a kitchen, erected three fireplaces, and windows, and the oak buttery hatch which opens from the kitchen, and which again has carved upon it "the pelican in her piety."

Bishop Tunstall (1530-1558) built Tunstall's Gallery, which extends from the great hall to the clock tower. It is entered by Cosin's staircase (erected later) and by an eastern stair built by Tunstall himself. A curious feature of this stairway is a port-hole which commands the main entrance to the courtyard. The present beautiful little chapel is also the work of Bishop Tunstall. It contains some notable carved oak stalls, of earlier date than the chapel itself, which were brought from the castle at Bishop Auckland. The carved devices of the miserere seats of these stalls are curious and worthy of attention. The doors in the gateway of the courtyard are the work of Tunstall's time.

Bishop Cosin (1660-1672) found the castle in a dilapidated condition. During the Commonwealth it had been sold to the then Lord Mayor of London, who used it badly, to say nothing of the ruin caused by the Scots. He spent large sums in its restoration. He added the present porch or entrance from the courtyard to the great hall. The great staircase in the north-west corner of the courtyard is his and bears his arms. Within and leading to Tunstall's Gallery is the Black Staircase, also the work of Cosin. He enlarged the chapel, and constructed and fitted several apartments in the castle, besides several minor works. In his will, he says, he spent the greater part of his temporal estate in "rebuilding and repaireing the two episcopall Castles of Durham and Bishop Auckland." This, he states, cost him seventeen thousand pounds, including the furnishing and ornamenting of the chapels, which he did "for the use of my successors in those Chappells for ever." Many of the agreements between Bishop Cosin and his masons, plasterers, carpenters, and painters, from which the exact dates and prices paid for the work may be learned, are preserved.

The latest important work at the castle was the rebuilding of the keep, in 1840, which was described at that time as "a picturesque ruin." It was entirely rebuilt on its original plan. The gateway to the courtyard was repaired and modernised by Bishop Barrington, with the existing inartistic result.

Durham Castle owes its picturesque appearance to two causes—first, its magnificent and commanding position, on a rocky escarpment; and second, no doubt, to the many vicissitudes through which it has passed, the alterations and additions made necessary by time and constant war, and later, the entirely different uses to which the building is put.



It is now chiefly used as a hall of residence for university men and as lodging for the Judges of Assize.

The most favourable time for the architectural student to visit the castle is during one of the university vacations, otherwise many interesting features would be denied him. Many portions (except students' chambers) are, however, open to the public every week day.

The University of Durham.—From an early date, frequent mention is made in the history of the see of Durham, of a college at Oxford called the Durham College. Its origin is not exactly known, but by the liberality of several bishops and priors its original endowment increased, until provision was made for eight fellows and eight scholars. This was the case at the time of the suppression of the monasteries by King Henry VIII., when, owing to its connection with the monastery of Durham, the college was also dissolved. Its revenues, were, however, rescued, and in 1541 were handed over by the king to the newly created dean and chapter. Thus the matter stood till 1650, when a petition was presented to the Protector, showing the great disadvantages to the North of England arising from the long distance of Oxford and Cambridge, and praying that the houses of the dean and prebendaries might be converted into a college. Cromwell took a favourable view of the idea, and in a letter to Lenthall, the Speaker, in its support, he says:—

"Truly it seems to me a matter of great concernment and importance, as that which (by the blessing of God) may much conduce to the promotion of learning and piety in these poore, rude, and ignorant parts, there being also many concurring advantages to this place, as pleasantness, and aptness of situation, healthfull aire, and plenty of provisions, which seeme to favour and pleade for theire desires therein."[7]

[7] Hutchinson, vol. i

Various delays occurred, however, and it was not until 1657 that the Lord Protector issued his patent for the erection of the proposed college, in a document consisting of twenty-three heads.

The college thus commenced made great progress, and would no doubt have continued to do so, but for the constant opposition of the two great universities of Oxford and Cambridge. Then followed the Restoration, and with it came a reaction against all measures established during the Protectorate. This feeling, combined with persistent petitions from the universities, soon accomplished the downfall of the College.

Bishop Van Mildert, who was translated to Durham in 1826, during his short episcopate saw many changes, not the least of which was the successful revival of the scheme for a university. Powers were obtained in 1832 for the training of students in divinity and the conferring of degrees in other faculties. The new foundation was endowed out of the revenues of the cathedral, and the bishop gave up the Castle of Durham for the use of the college, besides financial assistance of L1000 for the first year and L2000 for the following years until his death in 1836. The first warden was Dr Charles Thorp, Archdeacon and Canon of Durham, but it was provided by an order, on the recommendation of the Ecclesiastical Commissioners that in future the office of warden should be permanently attached to the deanery, and that a canonry in the cathedral be annexed to each of the professorships of Divinity and Greek.

The government of the university is in the hands of the dean and chapter, and the affairs administered by a warden, senate and convocation. A royal charter was obtained in 1837 making the university a corporate body with perpetual succession and a common seal.

The university, besides its original schools of arts and divinity, has established schools of physical science and medicine, in connection with the Durham College of Science at Newcastle-on-Tyne, and has recently admitted women students to its courses and lectures.

There are many foundation scholarships and exhibitions in arts, classics, mathematics, and theology, besides a long list of private foundations and fellowships.

The university consists of one college and one hall. The former, University College, occupies the Castle, and the latter, Bishop Hatfield's Hall.

It is well supplied with libraries. The university library founded at the opening, to which Bishop Van Mildert contributed a valuable collection.

The library given in 1855 by the late Dr Martin Routh, president of Magdalen College, Oxford.

The library presented by the late Bishop Maltby in 1856, which he endowed with L1000.

A library was also bequeathed to the university in 1859 by the late T.M. Winterbottom, M.D., of Westoe, South Shields. A large collection of books was bequeathed by the late Bishop Lightfoot.

Two other important libraries may here be mentioned, though they do not belong to the University—viz. the Chapter Library and Bishop Cosin's Library.



CHAPTER VI

THE CITY

Besides the Cathedral and Castle, the City of Durham possesses several churches of decided interest to the student of architecture, which deserve a brief notice.

The Parish Church of S. Mary in the North Bailey.—This small church is generally known as S. Mary le Bow, owing to the fact that in its original steeple was an arch, through which the roadway passed. This steeple fell in 1637, and the ancient structure was allowed to lapse into complete ruin. The present church was built in 1685, and its most noticeable feature is the open carved screen between the nave and chancel erected in 1707. The site of the church is the oldest in the city, and some writers have thought it probably identical with that of the White Church in which the body of S. Cuthbert was placed during the building of the cathedral.

S. Mary-the-Less is a small but picturesque church situated in the South Bailey, and is of Norman date. Its original architectural character is, however, almost entirely lost, owing to extensive restorations which took place in 1846-7. The round-headed window now in the south wall of the chancel, but formerly in the west wall of the nave, is the only remaining original feature. The church is entered by a porch on the south side, and consists of a nave and chancel only. Some stones in the churchyard, which were removed from their position when the church was restored, are carved with chevron ornament, and would seem to show that the date of the original structure was the earlier part of the twelfth century.

S. Oswald.—This church stands on high ground overlooking the river Wear, at the head of New Elvet; and is the parish church of the ancient borough of Elvet. The first church was erected by Bishop Carileph, though the earliest parts of the existing building are of the time of Bishop Pudsey, who also built the bridge across the river, known as the Elvet Bridge. To this date (about 1190) belongs the eastern part of the nave arcade, the arches of which are semi-circular and rest upon tall round piers. Early in the fourteenth century a new chancel was built, the aisles rebuilt and extended to the west end, and two new arches added to the west end of the nave arcades. In the early part of the fifteenth century a clerestory and open parapet were added, and a new oak roof placed over the nave. This was most probably a hammer-beam roof, and was coloured and gilded and decorated with angels holding shields. The only parts remaining at the present day are the grotesque carved corbels, and the angels. The tower was also constructed at this time. In 1834, owing to subsidence of the ground, it became necessary to rebuild the south aisle and a large part of the chancel, which caused the destruction of much architectural beauty. The open parapet was removed, the clerestory windows replaced by the present inferior ones, and the fine oak roof destroyed. The east end of the chancel was rebuilt in 1864. Special attention should be directed to the fine oak stall-work in the chancel, boldly carved in the style of the early part of the fifteenth century. The tower, which forms a beautiful and conspicuous landmark, is reached by a stone staircase of unusual character. It is placed in the thickness of the wall, and is covered in with twenty-four gravestones of thirteenth and fourteenth century date, on which may yet be seen portions of inscriptions and symbols. Built into the tower was part of a Saxon cross, which has now been removed for preservation to the dean and chapter library. This cross is interesting as evidence of the existence on the same site of a pre-Norman church. The tower was carefully restored in 1863. It contains a peal of six bells, which were re-cast in 1694, and bear the following inscriptions:—

1. GLOVIA(?) IN ALTISSMISS(?) DEO PEX FORSTER A VIC CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT 1694.

3. DEVM TIMETE PEX FORSTER AM VIC I EVANS C WARDEN CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT.

4. REGEM HONORATE PEX FORSTER A M VIC 1694 CHRISTOPR HODSON MADE ME I EVANS I S H R.

5. IBIMUS IN DOMVM DOMINI PEX FORSTER A M VIC CHRISTOPER HODSON MADE ME 1694 IO EVANS CHV W.

6. OSVALDUS FLOREM MEREOR QVIA GESTO TENOREM PEX FORSTER AM VIC IO EVANS IS WH RW CW 94.

The second bell was cast in 1885.

S. Margaret's Parish Church is situated on the steep hill called Crossgate. It is opposite to and across the river from the Castle, and from its churchyard a fine western view of the cathedral is obtained. The church was built during the early part of the episcopate of Bishop Pudsey (1154) and was formerly a chapel under the church of S. Oswald. Here again alterations and restorations have obliterated much that originally existed. The church at present consists of a nave and aisles, a chancel with aisles, a western tower, and north and south porches. The existing portions of the original church are the chancel arch, and the south arcade of four bays, together with part of the clerestory and the north wall of the chancel. The arcade consists of low massive circular piers, with cushion capitals and plain chamfered abaci, which support semi-circular arches of one order also chamfered.

The north arcade is also Norman, and very similar in character to that of S. Oswald. No doubt it is of the same date, and probably built by the same architect. The chancel arch has two orders, recessed square and chamfered, with a plain chamfered hood mould. On both north and south sides of the arch is a squint. With the exception of two which are Norman, the windows are nearly all of modern date. One is in the north wall of the chancel and is widely splayed. It is not seen on the outside owing to the vestry which now covers it. The other, a very interesting specimen, is situated over the western bay of the south arcade, and is a portion of the original clerestory and the earliest known clerestory window in the county. The roof of the nave is of oak, and a good specimen of Perpendicular work. The tower is of fifteenth-century date, and exceedingly plain externally, but vaulted in the interior. It opens on to the church by an arch which has been inserted in the west wall. There is an interesting font of Frosterley marble, which is apparently of the same date as the chancel. The vestry which is raised above the level of the church floor is of the fifteenth century, and has on its gable the original gable cross.



The Parish Church of S. Giles occupies a very elevated position at the north-east end of the city, and commands one of the finest views of the cathedral, castle, and city, which it is possible to obtain. It was built by Bishop Flambard and finished as early as 1112; but the north wall of the nave, containing two small Norman windows, widely splayed inwards, and a walled-up doorway is all that remains of this early church. The chancel is of later Norman of the time of Pudsey. Both within and without a bold chamfered string course runs round the chancel. On the south side is a semi-circular headed window, with a carved dripstone and nook shafts, the capitals of which bear a similar character to those in the Galilee Chapel of the cathedral. In the north wall of the chancel is the priests' door, now walled up, and the corbels and springers of the original chancel arch built by Pudsey. The present arch was erected in 1876. In 1414 considerable alterations were made during the episcopate of Bishop Langley, when the walls of the nave were raised, the upper stage of the tower built, and the west window inserted. The font is a fine stone bowl resting on a shaft, and is undoubtedly of the time of Flambard. The chancel contains some monuments of the Tempest and Heath families, who were the ancestors of the Marchioness of Londonderry, patroness of the church and parish of S. Giles. The tower contains three bells, the first and second of which are pre-Reformation and the third bears the date 1646.

On the north side of Gilesgate near to the North-Eastern goods station, are the ruins of the little Chapel of S. Mary Magdalen, of which only a small portion remains. At the west end of the north and south walls are two doorways, the latter walled up. Portions of the east window are still in position, but it would appear to have been of earlier date than the surrounding walls, and probably had been brought from some other building. In the interior are the remains of a Frosterley marble font, and a gable cross of thirteenth-century date is in the custody of the dean and chapter. The chapel was 43 feet by 161/2 feet wide. It is supposed to have been founded by Sir John Fitz Alexander. In 1370 it was almost entirely rebuilt, and again in 1449, on a site near the original one. The reason for this was the moisture of the ground, which caused the foundations to become insecure. The government was in the hands of the almoner of the cathedral, who distributed doles to the poor. The chapel was used as a place of worship until nearly the end of the seventeenth century, when, owing to its ruinous condition, services were finally discontinued.

* * * * *



PRINCIPAL DIMENSIONS OF THE CATHEDRAL

Feet. Inches. Length of Nave 201 0 Width of Nave 39 0 Width of Nave Aisles 21 0 Length of North Transept 66 0 Length of South Transept 66 0 Width of Transepts 37 0 Length of Choir 132 6 Width of Choir 39 6 Width of Choir Aisles 19 0 Length of Nine Altars Chapel 131 0 Width of Nine Altars Chapel 38 6 Height of Vaulting of Nine Altars Chapel 77 0 Height of Vaulting of Choir 74 6 Height of Vaulting of Nave 72 0 Height of Vaulting of Lantern 155 0 Width of Lantern E. to W. 40 6 Width of Lantern N. to S. 39 0 Height of Tower Arches 68 6 Length of Galilee Chapel 77 0 Width of Galilee 49 0 Height of Western Towers 144 6 Height of Central Tower 218 0 Total length of Church (interior) 469 6 Thickness of Wall at West End 8 0

AREA 44,400 sq. ft.

* * * * *

Transcriber's Notes:

1. Words and phrases which were italicized in the original have been surrounded by underscores ('_') in this version. Words or phrases which were bolded have been surrounded by pound signs ('#').

2. Obvious printer's errors have been corrected without note.

3. Inconsistencies in hyphenation or the spelling of proper names, and dialect or obsolete word spelling, has been maintained as in the original.

THE END