The Board of Food and Drug Inspection decided in 1910 against a trade custom that had prevailed until then of calling Minas coffee Santos when shipped through Santos, instead of Rio.[322]

For years a practise obtained of rebagging certain Central American growths in New York. In this way Bucaramangas frequently were transformed into Bogotas, Rios became Santos, Bahias and Victorias were sold as Rios, and the misbranding of peaberry was quite common. A celebrated case grew out of an attempt by a New York coffee importer and broker to continue one of these practises after the Pure Food Act made it a criminal offense. The defendants, who were found guilty of conspiracy, and who were fined three thousand dollars each, mixed, re-packed and sold under the name P.A.L. Bogota, a well known Colombian mark, eighty-four bags of washed Caracas coffee.[323]

After an exchange of views with the United States Board of Food and Drug Inspection, the New York Coffee Exchange decided that, after June 1, 1912, it would abolish all grades of coffee under the Exchange type No. 8.

The practise in Holland of grading Santos coffees—by selecting beans most like Java beans, and polishing and coloring them to add verisimilitude—known as "manipulated Java," became such a nuisance in 1912 that United States consuls refused to certify invoices to the United States unless accompanied by a declaration that the produce was "pure Java, neither mixed with other kinds nor counterfeited."

The United States Bureau of Chemistry ruled in February, 1921, that Coffea robusta could not be sold as Java coffee, or under any form of labeling which tended either directly or indirectly to create the impression that it was Coffea arabica, so long and favorably known as Java coffee. This was in line with the Department of Agriculture's previous definition that coffee was the seed of the Coffea arabica or Coffea liberica, and that Java coffee was Coffea arabica from Java. Coffea robusta was barred from deliveries on the New York Coffee Exchange in 1912.

During the greater part of the year 1918, the United States government assumed virtually full control of coffee trading. It was a war-time measure, and was intended to prevent speculation in coffee contracts and freight rates, to cut down the number of vessels carrying coffee to this country so as to provide more ships for transporting food and soldiers to Europe, and to put the coffee merchants on rations during the stress of war. On February 4, 1918, importers and dealers were placed under license; and two days later, rules were issued through the Food Administration fixing the maximum price for coffee for the spot month in the "futures" markets at eight and a half cents, prohibiting dealers from taking more than normal pre-war profits, or holding supplies in excess of ninety days' requirements, and greatly limiting resales. On May 8, the United States Shipping Board fixed the "official" freight rate from Rio de Janeiro to New York at one dollar and fifty cents per bag, which, without control, had risen to as high as four dollars and more, as compared with the ordinary rate of thirty-five cents before the war. On January 12, 1919, two months after the armistice was signed, the rules were withdrawn, and the coffee trade was left to carry on its business under its own direction.

Some Well Known Green Coffee Marks

Practically every bag of good quality green coffee is imprinted with a brand which indicates by whom it was shipped. These imprints are known in the trade as "green coffee marks." Many of them, through long usage, have become celebrated in international trade. One of the most famous was HLOG. This stood for "Heaven's Light Our Guide," and was owned by John O'Donohue's Sons. For many years it was used on Mocha coffee, but it is now out of existence. Other well-known Mocha marks are M R (Maurice Ries) with the figure of a camel, a star, or deer's head between the letters; L F or L B (Livierato Freres); C F or C B (Caracanda Freres).

Bogota marks includes PAL (in triangle) Bogota (P.A. Lopez & Co.); Camelia; Pinzon & Co.; Salazar; AOL (in triangle) Bogota; and Carmencita Manizales Excelso (Steinwender, Stoffregen & Co.).



Among the best known Medellin marks are FAC & H (F.A. Correa & Sons): PEC & C (Pedro Estrado Co.); LMT & C (Louis M. Torro & Co.); A & C (A. Angel & Co.); E C S Medellin Excelso (Eppens, Smith Co.); Balzacbro Medellin Excelso (Balzac Bros.); La Rambla (Banco Lopez); and Don Carlos Medellin Excelso (Steinwender, Stoffregen & Co.).

Caracas marks show J P P & H (Juan Pablo Perez & Sons); HLB & C (H.L. Boulton & Co.); FST & C (Filipe S. Toledo & Co.); JLG (J.L. Garrondona); and many others. Kolster (Kolster & Co.) is a well known Puerto Cabello mark.

Maracaibos bear numerous marks, chief among which are: M & C (Menda & Co.); Cogollo (Cogollo & Co.); Fossi (Fossi & Co.); B M & C (Breur. Moller & Co.); B & C (Blohm & Co.); FST & C (Filipe S. Toledo & Co.); V D R & C (Van Dessel, Rodo & Co.); and J E C & C over R G E (J.E. Carret & Co.).

A prominent Mexican mark is P A N (Rafael del Castillo & Co.).

Brazil coffee is usually marked merely with the initials of the firm or bank financing the shipment. Some representative Brazilian marks are: Aronco (in rectangle) Brazil; J A & Co (in rectangle) Brazil Rosebud; J A & Co (in rectangle) Brazil Bourbona—all used by J. Aron & Company; S S C (in circle) Rio; S S C (in triangle) Santos; both used by Steinwender, Stoffregen & Co.; Sions M/M Bourbns (Sion & Co.); and Nossack V S S C (in swastika), used by Nossack & Co.

There are hundreds of other marks. In most countries they change so often that one rarely stands out above the rest.



CHAPTER XXIV

GREEN AND ROASTED COFFEE CHARACTERISTICS

The trade values, bean characteristics, and cup merits of the leading coffees of commerce, with a "Complete Reference Table of the Principal Kinds of Coffee Grown in the World"—Appearance, aroma, and flavor in cup-testing—How experts test coffee—A typical sample-roasting and cup-testing outfit

More than a hundred different kinds of coffee are bought and sold in the United States. All of them belong to the same botanical genus, and practically all to the same species, the Coffea arabica; but each has distinguishing characteristics which determine its commercial value in the eyes of the importers, roasters, and distributers.

The American trade deals almost exclusively in Coffea arabica, although in the latter years of the World War increasing quantities of robusta and liberica growths were imported, largely because of the scarcity of Brazilian stocks and the improvement in the preparation methods, especially in the case of robustas. Considerable quantities of robusta grades were sold in the United States before 1912, but trading in them fell off when the New York Coffee and Sugar Exchange prohibited their delivery on Exchange contracts after March 1, 1912.

All coffees used in the United States are divided into two general groups, Brazils and Milds. Brazils comprise those coffees grown in Sao Paulo, Minas Geraes, Rio de Janeiro, Bahia, Victoria, and other Brazilian states. The Milds include all coffees grown elsewhere. In 1921 Brazils made up about three-fourths of the world's total consumption. They are regarded by American traders as the "price" coffees, while Milds are considered as the "quality" grades.

Brazil coffees are classified into four great groups, which bear the names of the ports through which they are exported; Santos, Rio, Victoria, and Bahia. Santos coffee is grown principally in the state of Sao Paulo; Rio, in the state of Rio de Janeiro and the state of Minas Geraes; Victoria, in the state of Espirito Santo; and Bahia in the state of Bahia. All of these groups are further subdivided according to their bean characteristics and the districts in which they are produced.

Brazil Coffee Characteristics

SANTOS. Santos coffees, considered as a whole, have the distinction of being the best grown in Brazil. Rios rank next, Victorias coming third in favor, and Bahias fourth. Of the Santos growths the best is that known in the trade as Bourbon, produced by trees grown from Mocha seed (Coffea arabica) brought originally from the French island colony of Bourbon (now Reunion) in the Indian Ocean. The true Bourbon is obtained from the first few crops of Mocha seed. After the third or fourth year of bearing, the fruit gradually changes in form, yielding in the sixth year the flat-shaped beans which are sold under the trade name of Flat Bean Santos. By that time, the coffee has lost most of its Bourbon characteristics. The true Bourbon of the first and second crops is a small bean, and resembles the Mocha, but makes a much handsomer roast with fewer "quakers". The Bourbons grown in the Campinas district often have a red center.



As regards flavor, a good Bourbon Santos is considered the best coffee for its price, and is the most satisfactory low-cost blending coffee to be obtained. It is used with practically any of the high-priced coffees to reduce the cost of the blend. When properly made, this coffee produces a drink that is smooth and palatable, without tang or special character, and is suitable to the average taste. When aged, Bourbon Santos decreases in acidity, and increases somewhat in size of bean.

The Santos coffee described as Flat Bean usually has a smooth surface, varying in size from small to large bean, and in color from a pale yellow to a pale green. The cup has a good and smooth body of neutral character, and the bean can be used straight or in a blend with practically any Mild coffee.

Another Santos growth, known in the trade as Harsh Santos, grows near the boundary between Sao Paulo and Minas Geraes. It often has some of the Rio characteristics, and commands a lower price than other Santos coffees.

Some trade authorities are of the opinion that Santos coffees are an exception to the rule that most green coffees improve with age. They argue that careful cup-testing will reveal that a new crop Santos is to be preferred to an old crop.

RIOS. Rio coffee is not generally liked in the United States, though in former years it had some following even in the better trade. The demand for all grades of Rios has been decreasing, Santos taking their place in the United States. Rio coffee has a peculiar, rank flavor. It has a heavy, pungent, and harsh taste which traders do not consider of value either in straight coffee or in blends. However, its low price recommends it to some packers, and it is often found in the cheapest brands of package coffees and also in many compounds. In color, the bean runs from light green to dark green; but when it is stored for any length of time—a common practise in the past—the color changes to a golden yellow; and the coffee is then known as golden Rio. The bean also expands with age.



All Rio coffee is described by the name Rio; but the American trade recognizes eight different grades, designated by numerals from one to eight. These grades are determined by standards adopted by the New York Coffee and Sugar Exchange, and are classified by the number of imperfections found in the chops exported. No. 1 Rio contains no imperfections, such as black beans, shells, stones, broken beans, pods or immature beans ("quakers"). Such a chop is rarely found. No. 2 has six imperfections. No. 3 has thirteen. No. 4 has twenty-nine, No. 5 has sixty, No. 6 has one hundred and ten, No. 7 has two hundred, and No. 8 has about four hundred, although on the Exchange these last two are graded by standard types.



VICTORIAS. Up to about the year 1917, Victoria coffees were held in even less favor by American traders than were Rios. As a rule the bean was large and punky, of a dark brown or dingy color, and its flavor was described as muddy. Then, the coffee growers began to introduce modern machinery for handling the crops, with the result that the character of the produce has been much improved, and the demand for it has been steadily growing. Many roasters who formerly used Rios straight for their lower grades, have changed to Victorias, not only to improve the appearance of the roast, but to soften the harsh drinking qualities of the low-grade Rios.



BAHIAS. Until recent years Bahia coffee has been decidedly unpopular in the United States, largely because of its peculiar smoky flavor, due to drying the coffee by means of wood fires, instead of by the usual sun method. This practise has been abandoned; Bahia coffee has shown a marked improvement in quality; and importations into the United States have increased. The Bahia coffee produced in the Chapada district is considered to be the best of the group. The bean is light-colored and of fair size. Other types are Caravella and Nazareth, both of which are below the standards demanded by the majority of the American trade.



MARAGOGIPE. This is a variety of Coffea arabica first observed growing near the town of Maragogipe on All Saints Bay, county of Maragogipe, Bahia, Brazil, where it is called Coffea indigena. The green bean is of huge size, and varies in color from green to dingy brown. It is the largest of all coffee beans, and makes an elephantine roast, free from quakers, but woody and generally disagreeable in the cup. However, Dr. P.J.S. Cramer of the Netherlands government's experimental garden in Bangelan, Java, regards it very highly, referring to it as "the finest coffee known", and as having "a highly developed, splendid flavor." This coffee is now found in practically all the producing countries, and shows the characteristics of the other coffees produced in the same soil.

The Characteristics of Mild Coffees

Among the Mild coffees there is a much greater variation in characteristics than is found among the Brazilian growths. This is due to the differences in climate, altitude, and soil, as well as in the cultural, processing, storage, and transportation methods employed in the widely separated countries in which Milds are produced.

Mild coffees generally have more body, more acidity, and a much finer aroma than Brazils; and from the standpoint of quality they are far more desirable in the cup. As a rule they have also better appearance, or "style", both in the green and in the roast, due to the fact that greater care is exercised in picking and preparing the higher grades. Milds are important for blending purposes, most of them possessing distinctive individual characteristics, which increase their value as blending coffees.

Not All Coffees Improve with Age

Although it has long been held that green coffee improves with age, and there is little doubt that this is true in so far as roasting merits are concerned; the question has been raised among coffee experts as to whether age improves the drinking qualities of all coffees alike.

Rio coffees should improve with age, as they are naturally strong and earthy. Age might be expected to soften and to mellow them and others having like characteristics. If, however, the coffee is mild in cup quality in the first instance, then it may be asked if age does not weaken it so that in time it must become quite insipid. Several years ago, a New York coffee expert pointed out that this was what happened to Santos coffees. The new crop, he said, was always a more pleasant and enjoyable drink than the old crop, because it was a more pronounced mild coffee in the cup.

MEXICANS. Considering those coffees grown nearest the American market first, we come to the coffees of Mexico. All coffees grown in this republic are known as Mexicans. They are further divided according to the states and districts in which they are produced, and as to whether they are prepared according to the wet or the dry method. The types best known in the American market are Coatepec, Huatusco, Orizaba, Cordoba, Oaxaca, and Jalapa. The lesser known are the Uruapan, Michoacan, Colima, Chiapas, Triunfo, Tapachula, Sierra, Tabasco, Tampico, and Coatzacoalcos. Some of these are rarely seen in the markets of the United States.

The coffee most cultivated in Mexico is supposed to have come from Mocha seed. Of this species is the Oaxaca coffee, which is valued because of its sharp acidity and excellent flavor, two qualities that make it desirable for blending. The bean of the Sierra Oaxaca (common unwashed) is not large, nor is the appearance stylish. The Pluma Oaxaca (washed) coffee, however, is a fancy bean and good for blending purposes.

Coatepec coffees are among the finest grown in Mexico, and take rank with the world's best grades. They are quite acidy, but have a desirable flavor; and when blended with coffees like Bourbon Santos, make a satisfactory cup.

The Orizaba, Huatusco, and Jalapa growths resemble Coatepecs, of which they are neighbors in the state of Vera Cruz. They are thin in body but are stylish roasters, and have a good cup qualities. As a class they do not possess the heavy body and acidity of genuine Coatepecs. Some Huatuscos are exceptions. Orizaba is superior to Jalapa. Chiapas and Tapachula coffees are generally more like Guatemalan growths than any others produced in Mexico, which is natural in view of the proximity of the districts to the northern boundary of Guatemala. The Sierra, Tampico, Tabasco, and Coatzacoalcos coffees are uncertain in quality; mostly they are low grade, some of them frequently possessing a groundy, flat, or Rioy flavor.



Cordoba coffees lack the acidity and tang of the Oaxacas, but make a handsome roast. They are considered too neutral to form the basis of a blend, but can be used to balance the tang of other grades.

CENTRAL AMERICANS. Central American coffee is the general trade name applied to the growths produced in Guatemala, Honduras, Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama, the countries comprising Central America.

GUATEMALA. This country sends the largest quantity to the United States, and also produces the best average grades of the Central American districts. Guatemalas are mostly washed and are very stylish. The bean has a waxy, bluish color. It splits open when roasting and shows a white center. Low-grown Guatemalas are thin in the cup, but the coffees grown in the mountainous districts of Coban and Antigua are quite acidy and heavy in body. Some Cobans border on bitterness because of the extreme acidity. The Antiguas are medium, flinty beans; while Cobans are larger. Both grades are spicy and aromatic in the cup, and are particularly good blenders. Properly roasted to a light cinnamon color, and blended with a high-grade combination, Cobans make one of the most serviceable coffees on the American market.

Guatemalas are generally classified as noted in the Complete Reference Table.



HONDURAS. While the upland coffee of Honduras is of good quality, the general run of the country's production seldom brings as high a price as Santos of equal grade. Nearly all Honduras coffee consists of small, round berries, bluish green in color. Very little of this growth comes to the United States; the bulk of the exports going to Europe, where it commands a high price, especially in France.

SALVADOR. Salvador coffee is inferior to Guatemala's product, grade for grade. Only a small proportion is washed; and the bulk of the crops is "naturals"; that is, unwashed. The bean is large and of fair average roast. The washed grades are fancy roasters, with very thin cup. The largest part of the production goes to Europe; some twenty-five percent of the exports are brought into the United States through San Francisco.

NICARAGUA. The ordinary run of Nicaragua coffee (the naturals) is looked upon in the United States as being of low quality, though the washed coffees from the Matagalpa district have plenty of acid in the cup and usually are fine roasters. Matagalpa beans are large and blue-tinged. Germany, Great Britain, and France take about all the Honduras coffee exported, only about six percent of the total coming to the United States. These coffees are described more in detail in the Complete Reference Table.

COSTA RICA. Good grades of Costa Rican coffee, such as are grown in the Cartago, San Jose, Alajuela, and Grecia districts at high altitudes, are highly esteemed by blenders. They are characterized by their fine flavor, rich body, and sharp acidity. It is frequently declared that some of these coffees are often acidy enough to sour cream if used straight. Due to careless methods of handling, sour or "hidey" beans are sometimes found in chops of Costa Ricans from the lowlands.

PANAMA. Panama grows coffee only for domestic use, and consequently it is little known in foreign markets. The bean is of average size and tends toward green in color. In the cup it has a heavy body and a strong flavor. The coffee grown in Boquette Valley is considered to be of fine quality, due no doubt to the care given in cultivation by the American and English planters there.

South America

COLOMBIANS. Colombia produces some of the world's finest coffees, of which the best known are Medellins, Manizales, Bogotas, Bucaramangas, Tolimas, and Cucutas. Old-crop Colombians of the higher grades, when mellowed with age, have many of the characteristics of the best East Indian coffees, and in style and cup are difficult to distinguish from the Mandhelings and the Ankolas of Sumatra. Such coffees are scarce on the American market, practically all the shipments coming to the United States being new crop and lacking some of the qualities of the mellowed beans. Compared with Santos coffee, good grade Colombians give one-fourth more liquor to a given strength with better flavor and aroma. They are classed and graded as noted in the Complete Reference Table.

Medellins are a fancy mountain-grown coffee, and are esteemed for their good qualities. The beans vary in size, and the color ranges from light to dark green, making a rather rough roast. In the cup they have a fine, rich, distinctive flavor, and in the American grading are regarded as the best of the Colombian commercial growths.

Manizales rank next to Medellins, and have nearly the same characteristics.



Bogotas of good grade are noted for their acidity, body, and flavor. When the acidity is tempered with age, the coffee can be drunk "straight" which can not be done with many other growths. The Bogota green bean ranges from a blue-green bean to a fancy yellow. It is long, and generally has a sharp turn in one end of the center stripe. It is a smooth roaster, and has a rich mellow flavor.

Bucaramangas, grown in the district of that name, are regarded favorably in the American markets as good commercial coffees for blending purposes; the naturals have heavy body, but lack acidity and decided flavor, and are much used to give "back-bone" to blends. The fancies sometimes push the superior East Indian growths hard for first place.

Tolimas are considered a good grade average coffee, and are characterized by a fair-sized bean, attractive style, and good cup quality.

Cucuta coffees, though grown in Colombia, are generally classified among the Maracaibos of Venezuela, because they are mostly shipped from that port. They are described, accordingly, with the Venezuelan coffees.

VENEZUELA. The coffees of Venezuela are generally grouped under the heads of Caracas, Puerto Cabello, and Maracaibo, the names of the ports through which they are exported. Each group is further subdivided by the names of the districts in which the principal plantations lie. La Guaira coffee includes that produced in the vicinity of Caracas and Cumana.

Caracas coffee is one of the best known in the American market. The washed Caracas is in steady demand in France and Spain. The bean is bluish in color, somewhat short, and of a uniform size. The liquor has a rather light body. Some light-blue washed Caracas coffees are very desirable, and have a peculiar flavor that is quite pleasant to the educated palate. Caracas chops rarely hold their style for any length of time, as the owners usually are not willing to dry properly and thoroughly before milling. When, however, the price is right, American buyers will use some Caracas chops instead of Bogotas. At equal prices the latter have the preference, as they have more body in the cup. Puerto Cabello and Cumana coffees are valued just below Caracas. They are grown at a lower altitude, and are somewhat inferior in flavor.

Not less than one-third of Puerto Cabello coffees come across the thirty-mile gulf to the westward from the port of Tucacas, in a little steamer called the Barquisimento, which is famous all along the coast as the "cocktail shaker." C.H. Stewart[324] solemnly asserts that "Barky" can do the "shimmy" when lying at anchor in quiet waters.



Merida and Tachira coffees are considered the best of the Maracaibo grades, Tovars and Trujillos being classed as lower in trade value. Though Cucuta coffee is grown in the Colombian district of that name, it is largely shipped through Maracaibo; and hence is classed among the Maracaibo types. It ranks with Meridas and fine grade Boconos, and somewhat resembles the Java bean in form and roast, but is decidedly different in the cup. Washed Cucutas are noted for their large size, roughness, and waxy color. They make a good-appearing roast, splitting open, and showing irregular white centers. New-crop beans are sometimes sharply acid, though they mellow with age and gain in body.

Until recent years, Tachira coffee was always sold as Cucuta; but now there is a tendency to ship it under the name Tachira-Venezuela, while true Cucuta is marked Cucuta-Colombia. Tachiras closely resemble the true Cucutas, grade for grade. Up to about 1905 the coffees grown near Salazar, in Colombia, came to market under the name of Salazar; but since then, they have been included among the Cucuta grades and are sold under that name.

The state of Tachira lies next to the Colombian boundary, and its mountains produce much fine washed coffee. This has size and fair style, as a rule, but does not possess cup qualities to make it much sought. It ages well and, being of good body, the old crops, other things being equal, frequently bring a tidy premium.

The Rubio section of Tachira produces the best of its washed coffees. Here are several of the largest and best-equipped estates in all Venezuela. Washed when fresh, the coffees from these estates are usually sold somewhat under the fancy Caracas; but the trillados of the Tachira rank with the best of the country, owing to their large bean, solid color, and good quality. They roast well, and cup with good body, though not much character. Good Tachira trillados are sold on the same basis as the Cucutas, which they resemble.

The Meridas are raised at higher altitudes than Cucutas, and good grades are sought for their peculiarly delicate flavor—which is neither acidy nor bitter—and heavy body. They rank as the best by far of the Maracaibo type. The bean is high-grown, of medium size, and roundish. It is well knit, and brings the highest price while it still holds its bluish style, as it then retains its delicate aroma and character. The trillados of Merida run unevenly.

Tovars rank between Trujillos and Tachiras. They are fair to good body without acidity; make a duller roast than Cucutas, but contain fewer quakers. They are used for blending with Bourbon Santos. Boconos are light in color and body. They are of two classes; one a round, small to medium, bean; and the other larger and softer. Their flavor is rather neutral, and they are frequently used as fillers in blends. Trujillos lack acidity and make a dull, rough roast, unless aged. They are blended with Bourbon Santos to make a low-priced palatable coffee. Some coffees of merit are produced at Santa Ana, Monte Carmelo, and Bocono in Trujillo.

Other South American Countries

The coffees from other South American countries, even where there is an appreciable production, are not important factors in international trade. The coffee of Ecuador, shipped through the port of Guayaquil, goes mostly to Chile, a comparatively small quantity being exported to the United States. The bean is small to medium in size, pea-green in color, and not desirable in the cup. The coffee is about equal to low-grade Brazil, and is used principally as a filler. Peru produces an ever-lessening quantity of coffee, the bulk of the exports in pre-war years going to Germany, Chile, and the United Kingdom. It is a low-altitude growth, and is considered poor grade. The bean ranges from medium to bold in size, and from bluish to yellow in color. Bolivia is an unimportant factor in the international coffee trade, most of its exports going to Chile. The chief variety produced is called the Yunga, which is considered to be of superior quality; but only a small quantity is grown. Guiana's coffee trade is insignificant. The three best-known types are the Surinam, Demerara, and Cayenne, named after the ports through which they are shipped.

The West Indies

Coffee either is, or can be, grown practically everywhere in the West Indies; but the chief producing districts are found on the islands of Porto Rico, Haiti (and Santo Domingo), Jamaica, Guadeloupe, and Curacao. Coffees coming from these islands are generally known by the name of the country of production, and may be further identified by the names of the districts in which they are grown.

PORTO RICO. Since the United States took possession of Porto Rico, soil experts have endeavored to raise the quality of the coffee grown there, especially the lower grades, which had peculiarly wild characteristics. Today, the superior grades of Porto Rican coffees rank among the best growths known to the trade. The bean is large, uniform, and stylish; ranging in color from a light gray-blue to a dark green-blue. Some of these are artificially colored for foreign markets. The coffee roasts well, and has a heavy body, similar to the fanciest Mexicans and Colombians. Its cup is not as rich, but it makes a good blend. Porto Rican coffees command a higher price in France than in the United States, which accounts for the larger proportion of exports to Europe, excepting when the French market was cut off during the World War.

JAMAICA. Jamaica produces two distinct types of coffee, the highland and the lowland growths. Among the first-named is the celebrated Blue Mountain coffee, which has a well developed pale blue-green bean that makes a good-appearing roast and a pleasantly aromatic cup. It is frequently compared with the fancy Cobans of Guatemala. The lowland coffee is a poorer grade, and consists largely of a mixture of different growths produced on the plains. It is a fair-sized bean, green to yellow in the "natural", and blue-green when washed. In the cup it has a grassy flavor, but is flat when drunk with cream. It is used chiefly as a filler in blends, and for French roasts.

HAITI AND SANTO DOMINGO. The coffees of these two republics have like characteristics, being grown on the same island and in about the same climatic and soil conditions. Careless cultivation and preparation methods are responsible for the generally poor quality of these coffees. When properly grown and cured, they rank well with high-grade washed varieties, and have a rich, fairly acid flavor in the cup. The bean is blue-green, and makes a handsome roast.

GUADELOUPE. Guadeloupe coffee is distinguishable by its green, long, and slightly thick bean, covered by a pellicle of whitish silvery color, which separates from the bean in the roast. It has excellent cup qualities.

MARTINIQUE. This island formerly produced a coffee closely resembling the Guadeloupe; but no coffee is now grown there, though some Guadeloupe growths are shipped from Martinique, and bear its name.

OTHER WEST INDIAN ISLANDS. Among the other West Indian islands producing small quantities of coffee are Cuba, Trinidad, Dominica, Barbados, and Curacao. The growths are generally good quality, bearing a close resemblance to one another. In the past, Cuba produced a fine grade; but the industry is now practically extinct.

Asia

ARABIA. For many generations Mocha coffee has been recognized throughout the world as the best coffee obtainable; and until the pure food law went into effect in the United States, other high-grade coffees were frequently sold by American firms under the name of Mocha. Now, only coffees grown in Arabia are entitled to that valuable trade name. They grow in a small area in the mountainous regions of the southwestern portion of the Arabian peninsula, in the province of Yemen, and are known locally by the names of the districts in which they are produced. Commercially they are graded as follows: Mocha Extra, for all extra qualities; Mocha No. 1, consisting of only perfect berries; No. 1-A, containing some dust, but otherwise free of imperfections; No. 2, showing a few broken beans and quakers; No. 3, having a heavier percentage of brokens and quakers and also some dust.



Mocha beans are very small, hard, roundish, and irregular in form and size. In color, they shade from olive green to pale yellow, the bulk being olive green. The roast is poor and uneven; but the coffee's virtues are shown in the cup. It has a distinctive winy flavor, and is heavy with acidity—two qualities which make a straight Mocha brew especially valuable as an after-dinner coffee, and also esteemed for blending with fancy, mild, washed types, particularly East Indian growths.

As in other countries, the coffees grown on the highlands in Yemen are better than the lowland growths. As a rule, the low altitude bean is larger and more oblong than that grown in the highlands, due to its quicker development in the regions where the rainfall, though not great, is more abundant.

While Mocha coffees are known commercially by grade numbers, the planters and Arabian traders also designate them by the name of the district or province in which each is grown. Among the better grades thus labeled are, the Yaffey, the Anezi, the Mattari, the Sanani, the Sharki, and the Haimi-Harazi. For the poorer grades, these names are used: Remi, Bourai, Shami, Yemeni, and Maidi. Of these varieties, the Mattari, a hard and regular bean, pale yellow in color, commands the highest price, with the Yaffey a close second. Harazi coffee heads the market for quantity coupled with general average of quality.

INDIAN AND CEYLON. Coffees from India and Ceylon are marketed almost exclusively in London, little reaching the American trade. Of the Indian growths, Malabars, grown on the western slope of the Ghaut mountains, are classed commercially as the best. The bean is rather small and blue-green in color. In the cup it has a distinctive strong flavor and deep color. Mysore coffee ranks next in favor on the English market. It is mountain grown, and the bean is large and blue-green in color. Tellicherry is another good grade coffee, closely resembling Malabar. Coorg (Kurg) coffee is an inferior growth. It is lowland type, and in the cup is thin and flat. The bean is large and flat, and tends toward dark green in color. Travancore is another lowland growth, ranking about with Coorg, and has the same general characteristics. See the Complete Reference Table for details.

Ceylon, although it once was one of the world's most important producers, has been losing ground as a coffee-producing country since 1890. Ceylon coffees are classified commercially as "native", "plantation", and "mountain". The native is a poor-grade, lowland growth, with large flat bean and low cup quality. The plantation, so named because more carefully cultivated on highland plantations, is a stylish roaster, and gives a rich flavor and strong fragrance in the cup. The mountain, grown at high altitudes, is a small, steel-blue bean, and is considered by British traders as equal to the best varieties grown anywhere. It was formerly shipped to Aden to be mixed with Mocha.



FRENCH INDO-CHINA. The coffee of French Indo-China is highly prized in France, where the bulk of the exports goes. The coffee tree grows well in the provinces of Tonkin, Annam, Cambodia, and Cochin-China. Tonkin is the largest producer, and grows the best varieties. In the cup, Tonkin coffee is thought by French traders to compare favorably with Mocha. Of the several varieties of Coffea arabica grown in Indo-China, the Grand Bourbon, Bourbon rond, and the Bourbon Le Roy, are the best known. The first-named is a large bean of good quality; the second is a small, round bean of superior grade; and the third is a still smaller bean of fair cup quality.



Africa

ABYSSINIA. The coffee grown in Abyssinia is classified commercially into two varieties: Harari, which is grown principally in the district around Harar; and Abyssinian, produced mainly in the provinces of Kaffa, Sidamo, and Guma. Harari coffee is the fruit of cultivated trees; while Abyssinian comes from wild trees. The first-named produces a long and well-shaped berry, and is often referred to as Longberry Harari. The bean is larger than the Mocha, but similar in general appearance. Its color shades from blue-green to yellow. Good grades of Harari have cup characteristics resembling Mocha, and by some are preferred to Mocha, because of their winier cup flavor. The Abyssinian coffee is considered much inferior to Harari; and chops generally contain many imperfections. The bean is dark gray in color. Little Abyssinian coffee comes to the United States.

Many other African countries produce coffee; but little of it ever reaches the North American market. Uganda, in British East Africa, grows a good grade of robusta coffee which is valued on the London market. Liberian coffee, grown on the west coast, used to be mixed with Bourbon Santos to some extent; but it is generally considered low grade, although it makes a handsome, elephantine roast. The product of Guinea is a very small bean, half-way between a peaberry and a flat bean, and has a dingy brown color. It is considered worthless as a drink. A medium-sized, strong-flavored bean that is rich in the cup, is grown in the African Congo district. In Angola a fair quantity of coffee is produced. In the cup it has a strong and pungent flavor, but lacks smoothness and aroma. Zanzibar produces a pleasing coffee in very limited quantities. The bean is medium size, and regular in shape. Mozambique's coffee is greenish in color, of medium size, and mellow. The production is small. Madagascar produces an insignificant quantity for export, although the coffee is considered fair average, with rich flavor, and considerable fragrance. Bourbon coffee, grown on the island of Reunion, commands a high price in the French market, where practically all exports go. It is a small, flinty bean, and gives a rich cup and fragrance.



East Indian Islands

Some of the coffees from the East Indian islands rank among the best in the world, particularly those from Sumatra. East India coffees are distinguished by their smooth, heavy body in the cup, the fancy grades giving an almost syrupy richness.

JAVA. Java coffees are generally of a smaller bean than those from Sumatra, and are not considered as high grade. The bulk of the new-crop growths have a grassy flavor which most people find unpleasant when drunk straight. Under the old culture system, coffee was bought by the government, and held in godowns from two to three years, until it had become mellow with age. In late years, this system has been abandoned; and the planters now sell their product as they please, and in most cases without mellowing, excepting as they age during the long sea voyage from Batavia to destination. Before the advent of large fleets of steamers in the East Indian trade, the coffee was brought to America in sailing vessels that required from three to four months for the trip. During the voyage, the coffee went through a sweating process which turned the beans from a light green to a dark brown, and considerably enhanced their cup values. The sweating was due to the coffee being loaded while moist, and then practically sealed in the vessel's hold during all its trip through the tropical seas. As a consequence, the cargo steamed and foamed; and as a rule, part of the coffee became moldy, the damage seldom extending more than an inch or two into the mats. Sweated coffees commanded from three to five cents more than those that came in "pale".



Before the Java coffee trade began to decline in the latter part of the nineteenth century, Coffea arabica was grown abundantly throughout the island. Each residency had numerous estates, and their names were given to the coffees produced. The best coffees came from Preanger, Cheribon, Buitenzorg, and Batavia, ranking in merit in the order named. All Java coffees are known commercially either as private growth, or as blue bean washed, the former being cured by either the washing or the dry hulling method, while the latter are washed. Private growths are usually a pale yellow, the bean being short and round and slightly convex. It makes a handsome even roast, showing a full white stripe. The washed variety is a pale blue-green, the bean closely resembling the private growth in form and roast. These coffees have a distinctive character in the cup that is much different from any other coffee grown. Their liquor is thin.

All the better known coffees of Java, which are designated by the districts in which they are grown, are listed in the Complete Reference Table. Coffee from few of the many districts comes to the North American market. Among those that are sold in the United States are the Kadoe and Semarang, both of which are small, yellowish green; and the Malang, a green, hard bean which makes a better roast than Kadoe and Semarang, but is inferior to them in the cup.

SUMATRA. Sumatra has the reputation of producing some of the finest and highest-priced coffees in the world, such as Mandheling, Ankola, Ayer Bangies, Padang Interior, and Palembang. Mandheling coffee is a large, brownish bean which roasts dull, but is generally free from quakers. It is very heavy in body, and has a unique flavor that easily distinguishes it from any other growth. The Ankola bean is shorter and better-appearing than Mandheling, but otherwise bears a close resemblance. Its flavor is only slightly under Mandheling; and, like that coffee, is recommended for blending with the best grades of Mocha. While the Ayer Bangies bean is somewhat larger than the other two just mentioned, it is not so dark brown in color, and is not quite so heavy in body; the flavor is very delicate. These three growths are known in the trade as the "Fancies" and are considered the best of Sumatra's production.

The Sumatra coffee best known to the American trade is the Padang Interior, which is shipped through the port of Padang on Sumatra's west coast. The bean is irregular in form and color, and makes a dull roast. However, the flavor is good, although it lacks the richness of the Fancies. Another celebrated coffee grown on the west coast is the Boekit Gompong, grown on the estate of that name near Padang. It is a high-grade coffee, making a handsome roast, and possessing a delicate flavor. The foregoing coffees are produced on what were formerly termed government estates, and during the heyday of government control were sold by auction and came mostly to the United States.

Among the private estate coffees, Corinchies take first rank for quality, some traders saying that they are the best in international commerce. They closely resemble Ankolas, but range a cent or two lower in price. Next in order of merit is Timor coffee, grown on the island of that name. It is not as attractive in appearance, roast, or cup quality as the Corinchie. A grade below Timors is Boengie coffee, which is seldom seen on the North American market. Kroe coffee is better known and more widely used in the United States. The bean is large, but has an attractive appearance. Kroes are of heavy body, of somewhat groundy flavor when new crop, and are good roasters and blenders. Other East Indian coffees are Teagals, Balis, and Macassars, all of which are second-rate growths as compared with the bulk of Sumatras, grade for grade. The Macassars are produced in the district of that name on island of Celebes. The best coffee grown in Celebes comes from the province of Menado, and is known by that name. It is thought to be of a superior quality, and commands a high price in Europe.

The Pacific Islands

The Philippine Islands have not figured in international coffee trade since 1892, although in preceding years the Philippines exported several million pounds of an average good grade of coffee. While coffee is one of the shade trees used by householders in Guam, none of the fruit is exported. Coffee production is an unimportant industry in Samoa, Australia, New Guinea, New Caledonia, and other Pacific islands, and none is grown for export.

HAWAII. Since the beginning of the twentieth century the Hawaiian islands have taken a position of increasing importance, shipping some two million pounds of good quality coffee to the United States, their biggest customer. Coffee grows to some extent on all the islands of the group, but fully ninety-five percent is raised in the districts of Kona, Puna, and Hamakua on the main island of Hawaii. All Hawaiian coffee is high grade; and is generally large bean, blue-green in color when new crop, and yellow-brown when aged. It makes a handsome roast, and has a fine flavor that is smooth and not too acid. It blends well with any high-grade mild coffee. Kona coffee, grown in the district of that name, commands the highest price. Old-crop Kona coffee is said by some trade authorities to be equal to either Mocha or Old Government Java.

Appearance, Aroma, and Flavor in Cup-Testing

Before the beginning of the twentieth century, practically all the coffees bought and sold in the United States were judged for merit simply by the appearance of the green or of the roasted bean. Since that time, the importance of testing the drinking qualities has become generally recognized; and today every progressive coffee buyer has his sample-roasting and testing outfit with which to carry out painstaking cup tests. Both buyers and sellers use the cup test, the former to determine the merits of the coffee he is buying, and the latter to ascertain the proper value of the chop under consideration. Frequently a test is made to fix the relative desirability of various growths considered as a whole, using composite samples that are supposed to give representation to an entire crop.

The first step in testing coffee is to compare the appearance of the green bean of a chop with a sample of known standard value for that particular kind of coffee. The next step is to compare the appearance when roasted. Then comes the appearance and aroma test, when it is ground; and finally, the most difficult of all, the trial of the flavor and aroma of the liquid.

Naturally the tester gives much care to proper roasting of the samples to be examined. He recognizes several different kinds of roasts which he terms the light, the medium, the dark, the Italian, and the French roasts, all of which vary in the shadings of color, and each of which gives a different taste in the cup. The careful tester watches the roast closely to see whether the beans acquire a dull or bright finish, and to note also if there are many quakers, or off-color beans. When the proper roasting point is reached, he smells the beans while still hot to determine their aroma. In some growths and grades, he will frequently smell of them as they cool off, because the character changes as the heat leaves them, as in the case of many Maracaibo grades.

After roasting, the actual cup-testing begins. Two methods are employed, the blind cup test, in which there is no clue to the identity of the kind of coffee in the cup; and the open test, in which the tester knows beforehand the particular coffee he is to examine. The former is most generally employed by buyers and sellers; although a large number of experts who do not let their knowledge interfere with their judgment, use the open method.

In both systems the amount of ground coffee placed in the cup is carefully weighed so that the strength will be standard. Generally, the cups are marked on the bottom for identification after the examination. Before pouring on the hot water to make the brew, the aroma of the freshly ground coffee is carefully noted to see if it is up to standard. In pouring the water, care is exercised to keep the temperature constant in the cups, so that the strength in all will be equal. When the water is poured directly on the grounds, a crust or scum is formed. Before this crust breaks, the tester sniffs the aroma given off; this is called the wet-smell, or crust, test, and is considered of great importance.

Of course, the taste of the brew is the most important test. Equal amounts of coffee are sipped from each cup, the tester holding each sip in his mouth only long enough to get the full strength of the flavor. He spits out the coffee into a large brass cuspidor which is designed for the purpose. The expert never swallows the liquor.

Cup-testing calls for keenly developed senses of sight, smell, and taste, and the faculty for remembering delicate shadings in each sense. By sight, the coffee man judges the size, shape, and color of the green and roasted bean, which are important factors in determining commercial values. He can tell also whether the coffee is of the washed or unwashed variety, and whether it contains many imperfections such as quakers, pods, stones, brokens, off-colored beans, and the like. By his sense of smell of the roast and of the brew, he gauges the strength of the aroma, which also enters into the valuation calculation. His palate tells him many things about a coffee brew—if the drink has body and is smooth, rich, acidy, or mellow; if it is winy, neutral, harsh, or Rioy; if it is musty, groundy, woody, or grassy; or if it is rank, hidey (sour), muddy, or bitter. These are trade designations of the different shades of flavor to be found in the various coffees coming to the North American market; and each has an influence on the price at which they will be sold.

The up-to-date cup-tester requires special equipment to get the best results. A typical installation consists of a gas sample-roasting outfit, employing at least a single cylinder holding about six ounces of coffee, and perhaps a battery of a dozen or more; an electric grinding mill; a testing table, with a top that can be revolved by hand; a pair of accurately adjusted balance scales; one or more brass kettles; a gas stove for heating water; sample pans; many china or glass cups; silver spoons; and a brass cuspidor that stands waist high and is shaped like an hour glass.

Since the World War, there have been some notable changes in the buying of coffees, particularly in European markets. For example, the old idea of buying fancy coffees at fancy prices is probably gone for good in Europe.



COMPLETE REFERENCE TABLE

OF

THE PRINCIPAL KINDS OF COFFEE GROWN IN THE WORLD

Together with Their Trade Values and Cup Characteristics

t, indicates town or trading center; m n, market name; d, district or state.

-+ + -+ - State, or Trade Values Grand Division Country Shipping Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics Gradings -+ + -+ + - North America Mexico Vera Cruz Mexicans In general: on Gulf of Mex. Mexicans are mild or mellow. The green beans are greenish to yellow (when aged) and of large size. The washed coffees make a handsome roast, showing pronounced white central stripe. In the cup they have a full rich body, fine acidity, and a wonderful bouquet. Vera Cruz, d Acid, of Coatepec, m n excellent heavy (pro., and rich co-at-e-pec) flavor;fine for blending. Huatusco, t Fine appearing (pro., washed coffee; wha-toos-co) next to Coatepec for acid and blending qualities. Orizaba, t Regarded as next to Huatusco; good cup quality. Jalapa, t Stylish (pro., roaster; ha-lap-a) frequently light body. Cordoba, t Neutral, smooth in flavor, without acid tang; good body. Puerto Mexico Tabasco, d & Of uncertain on Gulf of Mex. m n character; many Coatzacoalcos, of them Rioy, t & m n flat, and groundy. Unsatisfactory in the cup. Salina Cruz Chiapas, d Resembles on Pacific Soconusco, t, Guatemala m n Coatzacoalcos or coffees; (Puerto Mexico) Tapachula, smooth in on Gulf of Mex. t, m n character, and without decided tang. Oaxaca, d, m n Small bean; & t (pr., excellent wah-hock-ah) quality, sharply Sierra Oaxaca acid, fine (common - flavor, but not unwashed) stylish in Pluma Oaxaca appearance. (hidalgo- The Pluma is a washed) very fancy bean coffee, also acid and fine for blending. Acapulco Guerrero, d Inferior in on Pacific Sierra, m n quality; low growth and woody. Manzanillo Michoacan, d A superior on Pacific Unrapan, t coffee, but not produced in commercial quantity. Do. Colima, d, m n Very like & t Uruapan. -

- - - State, or Trade Values Grand Division Country Shipping Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics Gradings - - - North America Mexico Vera Cruz Puebla, d Low-grade (Cont'd) (Cont'd) Sierra, m n mountain coffee. Tampico Tamaulipas, d An inferior Tampico, m n grade. & t Tepic So called "Mexican Mocha." Raised for local consumption. Not a commercial factor. - Classes for all Mexicans 1. Commons (customary or natural). 2. Washed (W.I.P.) 3. Caracolillo (peaberry.) - - - Central America Guatemala Puerto Barrios Guatemala In general: and Livingston Guatemalas are on Caribbean mild or mellow and mostly washed. The green beans are greenish to yellow (when aged), and of large size. The mountain-grown coffees make a handsome roast, are of full heavy body and excellent cup quality. The lower-altitude coffees are light in cup, but flavory. Ocos, Coban, t & m n Waxy, bluish Champerico, and bean; handsome San Jose uniform roast on Pacific with white center. Heavy body, fine acidity. Belize Alta Verapaz, Gray-blue bean; (Br. Honduras) d fine mellow Sehenaju, t flavor. See Belize. Antigua, d Medium flinty Costa Cuca, d bean; lighter in Costa Grande, d body; flavory, Barberena, d acid. Tumbador, d Classes for Costa de Cucho All Guatemalas Chicacao Most Guatemalas Xolhuitz, d are washed and Pochuta may be Malacatan, d classified as San Marcos, d follows: Chuva, d 1. Small flinty Escuintla, d bean, extremely San Vincente, d acid and flavory, Pacaya, d produced in the Moran, d highest altitudes Amatitlan, d of the Antigua, Palmar, d Moran, and Motagua, d Amatitlan districts. 2. Waxy, bluish bean, flinty, but large roast; heavy body with fine acidity. Produced in the mountainous regions of the Coban, Costa Cuca, Tumbador, and Chuva districts. 3. Waxy, bluish bean, handsome uniform roast, heavy-bodied but non-acid coffees produced in almost every district of the republic at an altiture of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet. 4. Stylish, green bean, handsome large uniform roast, very white center, mild cupping coffees produced practically everywhere in the republic at an altitude of from 1,500 to 2,500 feet.

- - - State, or Trade Values Grand Division Country Shipping Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics Gradings - - - Central America Guatemala 5. The lower altitudes of the (Cont'd) (Cont'd) various districts produce either medium bean, neutral cupping, colory coffees, or the Bourbon type of small bean, greenish coffee. British Belize Belize, m n A Coban coffee Honduras from the Honduras Alta Verapaz district in Guatemala. Trujillo and Honduras In general: Puerto Cortes Santa Barbara Honduras coffees on Caribbean d are small, Copan, d rounded, and Cortez d bluish-green. Amapala La Paz, d They are of a on Pacific Choluteca, d hard flinty El Paraiso, d character; make a fair roast and are neutral in flavor. While the upland grades are of good quality, the run of the country's production seldom brings as high a price as Santos of equal grade. Salvador Acajutla Salvador In general: La Union Usulutan, d Salvador's La Libertad La Libertad, coffees are d mostly inferior Santa Ana, d in quality to Santa Tecla, those of d Guatemala. The La Paz, d bulk of the crop Ahuachapan, d is natural Juayua, d unwashed. Green Santiago de beans are smooth Maria, d and handsome and Sonsonate, d make a cinnamon San Miguel, d roast. Flavor is San Salvador, neutral. Useful d as a filler. The San Vincente, washed coffee is d a fancy roaster, Cuscatlan, d with a very thin Morazan, d cup. Cabanas, d Chalatenango, Classes and d Gradings for All La Union, d Salvadors: Washed 1. Flinty, colory, greenish to bluish bean, fine white centered roasters, extremely stylish coffees with full-bodied cup merit. 2. Grayish green to bluish green neutral-cupping coffees. Unwashed 1. Screened, large bean, fine roaster. 2. Average run, unscreened, so-called Current Unwashed. All unwashed coffees vary greatly in cup merit, much the same as with Santos coffees. Nicaragua Corinto Nicaragua In general: The on Pacific washed coffees of Nicaragua have merit, and are fine roasters; but the naturals, comprising the bulk of the crop, are of ordinary quality. San Juan del Matagalpa, d Large, handsome, Norte blue, washed bean (Greytown) making fancy on Caribbean roast with plenty of acid in the cup. -

- - - State, or Trade Values Grand Division Country Shipping Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics Gradings - - + - Central America Nicaragua Jinotega, d (Cont'd) (Cont'd) Los Pueblos, d Los Altos, d + + Classes for All Nicaraguas: 1. Large, handsome, pale greenish to blue, washed coffee of the Matagalpa district, often showing fancy roast and acidly full-bodied cup. 2. Washed coffees of the lower regions; small in size, but greenish, colory, fine roasters and neutral cupping. 3. Unwashed coffee (bulk of the output) the merit of which depends entirely on the respective crop. Often a large proportion of the crop is mild cupping and as desirable as any other unwashed coffee; while another crop may produce a large quantity of Rio-flavored coffees. + - Costa Rica Puerto Limon Costa Rica In general: The on Caribbean Cartago, d high-altitude Punta Arenas San Jose d coffees of Costa on Pacific Alajuela, d Rica are Grecia, d blue-greenish, Tres Rios, d large, rich in Heredia, d body, of fine, mild flavor, sharply acid, and superior for blending purposes. These coffees are famous for their fine preparation and careful screening. The lower regions produce coffees of more neutral-cupping qualities. Panama Panama City Panama In general: The Chiriqui, d green bean is of Boquete, m n average size, greenish in color. In the cup it has a heavy body and a strong flavor. Grown chiefly for domestic consumption. Not a commercial factor. - - West Indies Cuba Havana Cuba In general: (Greater Santiago Oriente, d Cuban coffee is Antilles) Guatanamo, t of good quality. Santa Clara, The bean is of d medium size, Pinar del Rio light green, and d makes a uniform Vuelta Abaja roast. The flavor m n resembles the fine washed coffees of Santo Domingo. Not commercially important. Haiti Port au Prince Haiti In general: The Cap Haitien St. Marc, d Haitian washed Gonaive, d coffee is a blue Cap Haitien, bean and makes an d attractive roast. Jacmel, d It has a rich, Les Cayes, d fairly acid, Jeremie, d mildly-sweet flavor; of average quality. The naturals are used extensively for French roasts. - - -

========================================================================= Grand Country Shipping State, or Trade Values Division Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics and Gradings - - - West Indies Santo Santo Domingo Santo Domingo In general: Santo (Greater Domingo Porto Plata Cape, m n Domingo coffee is Antilles) Mocha, d a large, flat, (Cont'd) Santiago, d pointed, Porto Plata, d greenish-yellow Bani, d bean. The Barahona, d high-grown washed is of good body and fair flavor. The low grade is strong, approaching Rio in flavor. The natural coffees are used extensively for French roasts. Jamaica Kingston Jamaica In general: (British) Classes: Jamaica coffee is Blue Mountain bluish-green when (high-grown) washed, and green Settlers' to yellow when (ordinary, or patio-dried. The plain-grown) washed high-grown makes a fancy roast, and is rich, full and mellow in the cup. The ordinary plain-grown makes a bright roast, and has a fairly good cup quality. The naturals are used extensively for French roasts. Porto Rico San Juan Porto Rico In general: Porto (U.S.) Ponce Sierra Rico coffee Mayaguez Luquillo, is a large, Arecibo m n handsome, washed Aguadilla Yauco, d, t bean, light & m n gray-blue to dark Ciales, d & t greenish blue in Cayey, d & t color, and makes Utuado, d & t a fancy roast without quakers. Lares, d & t Strong or heavy Moca, d & t body; peculiar Adjuntas, d & flavor similar t to a washed Las Larias, d Caracas, but & t smoother. Maricao, d & t San Sebastian Classes for All d Porto Ricos Mayaguez, d & t Caracolillo, a round Ponce, d & t bean peaberry; Primero, a superior grade of good size and color, usually hand-picked; Segundo, second grade, inferior to Primero in size and color; Trillo, lowest grade, sold locally. (Lesser British West Antilles) Indies Antigua Saint John Antigua In general: While Dominica Portsmouth Dominica the quantity grown (Soufriere) is small, the Barbados Bridgetown Barbados coffee is of good Trinidad Port of Spain Trinidad quality, and Tobago Scarborough Tobago includes ten different varieties. That grown in Barbados is similar to that of Martinique, but a larger bean. This group is not an important commercial factor. - - -

========================================================================= Grand Country Shipping State, or Trade Values Division Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics and Gradings - - - West Indies Guadeloupe Pointe-a-Pitre Guadeloupe In general: The (Lesser (French) Classes: Guadeloupe coffee Antilles) 1. Bonifieur, bean is glossy, (Cont'd) or Cafe Lustre hard, long, and (glossy) has an even green 2. Habitant, color, somewhat or Cafe plus grayish. It is of Pellicule excellent quality. (with The Saints Bean is pellicles) superior. The Ordinary is a smaller, rounder, curved bean. Guadeloupe coffees are mostly sold as Martinique. Martinique Fort-de-France Martinique In general: The (French) Grades: Martinique bean is Fine Green green, long, Common Green somewhat thick, and Good Commercial is usually shipped Common " in the silver skin. Picked " It is of fine Common quality, but commercially unimportant. Guadeloupe coffees are not infrequently sold as Martinique. Curacao Willemstad Curacao In general: The (Dutch) Curacao coffee bean is small, of light color and flavor. It makes a bright cinnamon roast; useful as a filler. - - - South America Colombia Puerto Colombians, m In general: The Colombia n Colombian coffee (Savanilla) bean is greenish, Barranquilla yellow, and brown, Cartagena depending on age, Santa Marta and is rich and on Atlantic mild in the cup. The fancy grades Buenaventura compare favorably Tumaco with the world's on the best growths. They Pacific produce one-quarter more liquor of given strength than Santos coffees, and possess much finer flavor and aroma. Antioquia, d Light to dark green; Medellin, t handsome roasters; & m n not as smooth as some Central American types, but best of Colombians; fine flavor and body. Caldas, d Similar to Medellins Manizales, in cup quality, but t & m n not as heavy-bodied or as acid. Jerico A favorably regarded Colombian. Magdalena, d Full, solid, blue, Santa Marta, washed bean, making t & m n a fancy roast, but too acid to be used straight. Cundinamarca, The green bean is d blue-green to fancy Bogota, t & yellow and Java m n brown, depending on age; long, with a sharp turn in one end of the center stripe. It makes - - -

=============+============+==============+=================+================= Grand Country Shipping State, or Trade Values Division Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics and Gradings -+ + + -+ - South America Colombia a smooth roast. The (Cont'd) (Cont'd). fancy has a rich, mellow flavor. Cauca, t & Sometimes sold as m n imitation Bogota or Bucaramanga; but inferior in appearance, roast, and drink. Santander, d Large bean, spongy Bucaramanga and open, making a t & m n dull Java-style roast. The naturals lack acidity and flavor; but have a heavy body. The fancies are almost the equals of fine Javas and Sumatras. Cucuta, t & Attractive in style m n and cup. (See Venezuela.) Ocana, t Sometimes sold as an Savanilla, imitation Bogota or m n Bucaramanga; but inferior in appearance and cup. Tolima, d Fair size bean, Ibague, t attractive in Honda, t style and cup. Classes for All Colombians: Cafe Trillado (natural or sun dried), Cafe Lavado (washed). Gradings for All Colombians: Excelso (excellent), fantasia (excelso and extra), extra (extra), primera (first), segunda (second), caracol (peaberry), monstruo (large and deformed), consumo (defective), pasilla (siftings). -+ - Venezuela La Guaira Venezuela In general: The Puerto Cabello coffee of Venezuela Maracaibo is greenish-yellow to yellow; large bean, ranging next to Santos in quality and price. It is mild or mellow in the cup. The unwashed, or trillado, comprises the bulk of the crop. Caracas, d Short, bluish bean, uniform in color, and making a light cinnamon roast, but containing quakers. The natural has a fair cup quality. The washed gives the best results in roast and cup. Puerto The washed is a Cabello, d handsome bean, but inferior in flavor to Caracas. The unwashed is flinty; fair roast, no special merit in cup. -+ + + -+ -

========================================================================= Grand Country Shipping State, or Trade Values Division Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics and Gradings - - - South America Venezuela Cumana, d Valued just below (Cont'd) (Cont'd) Caracas. Coro, d Valued a trifle below Rio of the same grade. Trujillo, d & A low grade, making m n a dull rough roast. Santa Ana Light in color and body. Monte Carmelo Light in color and body. Bocono Light in color and body; neutral flavor. Two classes. Merida, d & The best of the m n Maracaibos. The washed makes a good roast, and has a peculiar delicate flavor much prized by experts. It ranks among the world's best. Tovar, m n Ranks between Trujillos and Tachiras. Fair to good body; without acidity. Used as filler in blends. Tachira, m Formerly sold as n Cucuta, (San Cristobal) to which it is nearest in quality, appearance, and flavor. Cucuta, t & Grown in Colombia. m n Resembles Java bean Salazar, m in form and roast. n The natural makes a full roast. The washed is a stylish, large bean, a beautiful roaster, splitting open with irregular white center; sharply acid in the cup. Angostura A small bean, light in color and body, without much weight or character. Carupano A low grade valued at about the same as a Brazil coffee of similar grade. British Georgetown Demerara, m In general: Not a Guiana n commercial factor. Dutch Guiana Paramaribo Surinam, m In general: The (Surinam) n production is limited and commercially unimportant. French Cayenne Cayenne, m In general: Guiana n Similar to (Cayenne) Martinique. The production is limited and commercially unimportant. - - -

========================================================================= Grand Country Shipping State, or Trade Values Division Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics and Gradings - - - South Brazil Brazils, m n In general: The American coffees of Brazil, (Cont'd) which are generally known in the trade as "Brazils" (to distinguish them from "Milds," the higher grades), are the "price" coffees of the world. Brazil produces about 70% of the world's supply. Santos Sao Paulo, d The largest coffee district, producing between 50% and 60% of the world's supply. Classes: Bourbon, Small bean, Santos m n resembling Mocha, but making a handsomer roast with fewer quakers. In color it varies from dark to light green, and from yellow to a pale straw, often with a red center. True Bourbons are first crop beans. In the cup they are smooth and palatable without tang. Flat Bean Smooth surface, Santos m n small to large, pale green and greenish-yellow to pale yellow. It is a sixth year crop of Bourbon Santos. Good full smooth body. Used straight and in combination with all milds. Mocha-Seed A grade of Bourbon Santos m n designed as a substitute for true Mocha on the European markets. Campinas, d The oldest coffee & t district in Sao Paulo. There are 136 others. Gradings for All Sao Paulo: 1 Fine 4 Regular 2 Superior 5 Ordinary 3 Good 6 Escalba - - Rio de Minas Geraes Various shades of Janeriro Rio, m n green, medium to large. Peculiar pungent flavor and aroma. Gradings for All Rios: (N.Y. Coffee Exchange) 1 No imperfections 2 6 imperfections 3 13 imperfections 4 20 imperfections 5 60 imperfections 6 110 imperfections 7 About 200 imperfections 8 About 400 imperfections (On Havre Exchange) Washed Inferior and ordinary Unwashed Superior, 1st good, 1st regular, 1st ordinary, 2nd good, 2nd ordinary. - - -

========================================================================= Grand Country Shipping State, or Trade Values Division Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics and Gradings - - - South America Brazil Victoria Espirito Santo Large, dingy-green (Cont'd) (Cont'd) d or brown bean Victoria, t making a roast free Capitania, m from quakers but n but muddy in the cup. Bahia Bahia, d, t, & Low grade, having a m n peculiar smoky flavor. Chapada, t & Light-colored, m n fair-sized bean; attractive roast, but no cup character. Caravellas, t Similar to Chapada. & m n Nazareth, t & Small bean, fair m n roast, undesirable cup. Maragogipe, A variety of t & m n Coffea arabica; large bean, elephantine roast, woody in the cup. Ceara Ceara, t Small, flinty, green Cuaruaru, m bean; value like n Santos of the same grade. Ecuador Guayaquil Ecuador In general: The Ecuador coffee bean is small, pea-green in color, and not high grade. It resembles Ceara, and when old makes a bright roast. It is poor in cup quality and useful only as a filler. Not an important commercial factor. Peru Callao Peru In general: The Mollendo Choquisongo, d green coffee bean Cajamarca, d of Peru ranges from Perene, d medium to bold in Paucartambo, d size, and from Chauchamayo, d bluish to yellow in Huanuaco, d color. The highland Pacasmayo, d variety has been compared with the high-grade Mexicans, but the lowland growths are not favorably regarded. Unimportant commercially. Bolivia Bolivia In general: La Paz, d Bolivia's coffee, Apolobamba, though of superior t quality and Yungas, m sometimes compared n favorably with Cochabamba, d Arabian growths, is Santa Cruz, d an unimportant Sara factor in Velasco international Chiquitos coffee trading. Cordillera El Beni, d Chuquisca, d Argentina Argentina In general: Salta, d Argentina's coffee Jujuy, d is grown chiefly for home consumption. Unimportant commercially. - - -

========================================================================= Grand Country Shipping State, or Trade Values Division Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics and Gradings - - - South America Paraguay Paraguay In general: (Cont'd) Altos, d Paraguay's coffee Asuncion, d is all marketed in Asuncion, where it is sold as Brazilian coffee. It is commercially important. - - - Asia Arabia Aden Mocha In general: Hodeida Arabian, or Mocha, Maidi beans are very Leheya small, hard, round irregular in form and size; in color, olive green shading off to pale yellow. The roast is poor and irregular. In the cup they have a unique acid character, heavy body; in flavor, smooth and delicious. Yemen Marttari, d From the Beni-Mattar (Mohtari) country; the best; a yellow-green translucent bean. Yaffey, d From the Yaffey country near Taiz; second best. Sharki, d A long light yellow (Shergi) bean, from the east, "Esh Shark" a superior Mocha with a rich full body. Sanani, d From the Sanaa region; a green bean. A grade lower than Sharki. Haimi-Harazi, A quality green bean d from a mountain (Hemi or near Mattari. Heimah) Anezi, d From the El Anz (Anisi) country. Pale yellow and very hard. Sharsh, d Superior qualities Menakha, d of the above due Hifash, d to different methods of curing. Remi, d A poorer grade, (Reimah) reddish bean, from Djebel Remi. Bourai, d A poorer grade from (Bura) Djebel Boura. Shami, d A poorer grade from from the north; Esh Sham. Yemeni, d A poorer grade from (Taizi) the south; El Yemen. Maidi, d A poorer grade from the port of Maidi. Abyssinia Formerly known as (Africa) Longberry Mocha, but still shipped through Aden via Jibuti. See Africa Abyssinia. - - -

=============+============+==============+=================+================= Grand Country Shipping State, or Trade Values Division Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics and Gradings -+ + + -+ - Asia Arabia Gradings for All Mochas: Mocha (Cont'd) (Cont'd) Extra For all extra qualities as Yaffey, Anezi, Matari, Sharki. Mocha No. 1 For Anezi, Matari, Sharki; only perfect berries. No. 1A, same as No. 1, but with some dust. Mocha No. 2 Some broken and quakers. Mocha No. 3 Broken, quakers and dust. Magrache Triage or screenings. -+ - India Madras Indias, m n In general: The Calicut Indian coffee bean Mangalore is small to large Tellicherry and blue-green in Tuticorin color. In the cup Bombay it has a distinctive strong flavor and deep color. Mysore, d Mountain-grown, Mysore, t large, blue-green bean, heavy body. Madras, d Small bean, solid Malabar, m and meaty; handsome n (Wynaad) roast, peculiar rich flavor. Nilgiri, d Small to large bean Nilgiris, m with slight acidity n in the cup; plantation Ceylon character. Madura, d No marked (Palni Hills) characteristics. Salem, d Same as Nilgiris. (Shevaroys) Coimbatore, d Same as Nilgiris. Tellicherry, A good grade d resembling Malabar; somewhat similar Nilgiris. Coorg (or A large, flat, dark Kurg), d green bean, thin in the cup; a lowland variety. Travancore, d Similar to Nilgiris. Cochin, d A native cherry. Cochin, m n Bombay, d Commercially Kanara unimportant. Bengal, d Commercially Chittagong unimportant. Assam Commercially unimportant. South Sylhet Commercially unimportant. Burma Rangoon Burma Large spongy bean; Tavoy, d grassy cup. Not a commercial factor. Classes for All Indias: 1 Native cherry (sun dried and then hulled) 2 Plantation (washed) Sizes: Nos. 1, 2 and 3; Peaberry and Triage -+ + + -+ -

========================================================================= Grand Country Shipping State, or Trade Values Division Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics and Gradings - - - Asia Ceylon Colombo Ceylon In general: (Cont'd) Gampola, d Ceylon's coffees Dumbara, d are no longer the Kotmale, d commercial factor Pussellawa, d they were before the coffee blight practically destroyed the industry. Those left, however, still retain much of their original character, the hill-grown washed being unique in appearance and flavor. In the old days they were classed as native, or plain-grown, plantation, mountain, and Liberian. Malay States Penang Straits In general: The (British) (Georgetown) Liberian, m coffee from the Singapore n Malay States is Straits mostly Liberian Robusta, m and Robusta and is n not important commercially, although the Robusta variety promises to become an important factor. Perak, d Most important of the Federated States coffees. Selangor, d Native state coffee. Negri- Nine states Sembilan, d Federation district coffees. Bali, d & m From the island in n Netherlands East Indies (See p. 374.) Timor, d & From the island in m n Netherlands East Indies (See p. 374.) French Haiphong Indo-China, m In general: The Indo-China n coffees of French Tonkin Indo-China, while Annam comparatively new, Cambodia give promise; but Cochin-China as yet are not commercially important. The original arabica plantings have been succeeded by liberica and robusta growths. - - - Malay Sunda East Indies, In general: Archipelago Islands m n Included in this group are the best-known coffees from Sumatra, Java, Timor, Celebes, etc. Netherlands East Indies Sumatra Padang Sumatra In general: Kroe (West Included among the Coast) coffees of Sumatra Batavia (Java) are several that are conceded to be the finest the world produces. The green beans are large, uniform, and vary in color from pale straw to deep mahogany. They have a smooth, heavy body, the - - -

========================================================================= Grand Country Shipping State, or Trade Values Division Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics and Gradings - - - Malay Netherlands Padang fancies possessing Archipelago East Indies Kroe (West an almost syrupy (Cont'd) Sumatra Coast) richness. They are (Cont'd) Batavia (Java) graded as Private Estate (washed or dry hulled) and Blue Bean (washed). Padang, d & The best coffee in t the world"; also Mandheling, m the highest priced. n Formerly a Government coffee. Yellow to brown, large-sized bean; dully roast, but free from quakers. It is of heavy body, exquisite flavor and aroma. Ankola, m n Formerly a Government coffee. Large fat bean, making a dull roast. Second only to Mandhelings; it has a heavy body and rich, musty flavor. Siboga, m n A harder bean Ankola; sometimes called Private Estate Ankola. Ayer Bangies, Formerly a m n Government coffee. Large even bean, with Mandheling and Ankola; of a delicate flavor but not much body. Corinchie, m Formerly a native n cultivation. The bean is large, handsome, brown in color. It makes an attractive roast. Good body, plenty of bitter acid, delicious flavor. Interior, m Formerly all n Government coffee. The true type of Old Government Java. Poor roast, good cup. Painan Formerly a Government coffee. Mixed green and brown beans; poor roast. Heavy body, pungent flavor. Grades next to Inferior. Kroe, t & m Formerly a native n cultivated coffee. Large even bean, fine roast, heavy body, somewhat groundy flavor. Lahat, t & Former native m n cultivation. Smaller than Kroe; good roaster, flat cup. - - -