DRESDEN, Jan. 8d, 1819.

I have made an excursion to Meissen which lies on the same bank of the river with the old town of Dresden at a distance of twelve miles. As there is no road on the left bank of the river to Meissen, you must cross the river twice to arrive at it, viz., once at Neustadt and once at Meissen, the road being on the right bank. I put up at the Hirsch (Stag), a very comfortable inn. I went to Meissen with a view of seeing the Russian contingent pass the Elbe on their return from France, which has been evacuated in consequence of the arrangement at Aix-la-Chapelle. They appeared a fine body of men, clothed a la francaise and seemed in high spirits. They seem to have imbibed liberal ideas during their residence in France, for some of the officers who dined at the inn at Meissen spoke very freely on passing events.

The return of the Saxon contingent is expected in Dresden in a day or two, and there will no doubt be a great deal of rejoicing among the military and their relations to meet their old comrades and friends; and potent libations of Doppel Bier will no doubt be made. Meissen is said to be famous for the beauty of its women and the few that I saw in the streets did not contradict this reputation.

DRESDEN, Jany. 5th, 1819.

We have had several balls here. Waltzing is the only sort of dance in fashion at Dresden, excepting now and then a Polonaise.

I have witnessed an interesting spectacle in the Grosser Garten. The pond or basin is completely frozen over, and a Russian Prince, Gallitzin, who is here, has fitted up a sort of Montagnes Russes as they are called. Blocks of ice are placed on an inclined plane to the top of which you mount by means of a staircase; and then, seating yourself in a sort of sledge, you slide down the inclined plane with immense velocity. The Prince often persuades a lady to sit on this sleigh on his lap and descend together; and this no doubt serves to break the ice of many an amorous intrigue. This construction of the Prince Gallitzin has contributed to fill the Grosser Garten with the beau monde, every day from twelve to two o'clock; so that you see we are in no want of amusements at Dresden.

The King frequently attends the theatre; he is a tall, fine looking man, and is usually dressed in the uniform of his Foot-Guards, which is scarlet faced with yellow. The poor King has taken much to heart the injustice with which he has been treated by the coalition, and no doubt will not easily forget the ill-bred and insolent letter of Castlereagh to the Congress, wherein he said that the King of Saxony deserved to lose his dominions for adhering to Napoleon. But how the King of Saxony could act otherwise I am at a loss to find: so little could he possibly deserve this treatment for adhering to Napoleon, that had his advice been taken in the year 1805, the French would never have been able to extend their conquests so far, nor to dictate laws to Germany. But Lord Castlereagh seems to have either never known or wilfully forgotten the anterior political conduct of Saxony. Had he been more versed in German affairs, or had studied with more accuracy the events passing before his eyes, it would have been a check upon his arrogance; but here was a genuine disciple of the Pitt school (that school of ignorance and insolence), who sets himself up as the moral regenerator of nations and as a distributor of provinces, while he is grossly ignorant of the political system of the country on whose destinies he pretends to decide so peremptorily. Had Castlereagh paid attention to what was going forward in Germany in 1805, he would have seen too that of all powers Prussia was the very last who with any shadow of justice could pretend to an indemnification at the expense of Saxony. In the year 1805, the King, then Elector of Saxony, strongly advised the Prussian Cabinet to forget its ancient rivalry and jealousy of Austria and to coalesce with the latter power, in resisting the encroachments of Napoleon, in order to prevent the latter from attempting the overthrow of the whole fabric of the constitution of the Holy Roman Empire, with the intricacy and fragility of which no prince in Germany was better acquainted than the Elector of Saxony. Prussia however was still reluctant to engage in the contest and gave no support whatever to Austria. Napoleon defeats the Austrians at Austerlitz and dictates peace. Six months after the Prussian Cabinet, excited by a patriotic but rash and ill-calculating party, has recourse to arms, not from any generous policy, but because she sees herself outwitted by Napoleon, who refuses to cede to her Hanover in perpetuity. Prussia begins the war and calls on Saxony, who always moved in her orbit, to join her. To the Elector of Saxony this war (in 1806) appeared then ill-timed and too late; but with that good faith, nevertheless, which invariably characterized him, he remained faithful to his engagement and furnished his quota of troops to Prussia. The Saxon troops fought nobly at the battle of Jena. This battle annihilates all the power of Prussia, and lays Saxony entirely at the mercy of the Conqueror; but Napoleon not only treats Saxony with moderation, but with rare generosity; he does not take from her a single village, but aggrandizes her and gives to her the Duchy of Warsaw and to her Sovereign the title of King. Saxony becomes in consequence a member of the confederation of the Rhine and is bound to support the Protector in all his wars offensive and defensive. The Russian war in 1812 begins: every German state, Austria and Prussia in the number, furnishes its contingent of troops. The campaign is unsuccessful, the climate of Russia having annihilated the French Army, and Napoleon returns to Paris. Saxony is now exposed to invasion and harassed by the incursions of the Cossacks. The King of Saxony is perplexed in what manner to act, so as to ensure to his subjects that protection which was ever uppermost in his thoughts; feeling however with his usual sagacity that every thing would ultimately depend on the dispositions of Austria, he repairs himself to Prague, in order to have an interview with one of the Austrian ministers, and to sound that Cabinet. Austria however still vacillates and declines stating what her intentions are. Napoleon returns from Paris, defeats the Prussians and Russians at Bautzen and re-occupies all Saxony. He then writes to the King of Saxony to desire him to return immediately to his dominions and to fulfil his engagements. What was the King to do? Austria still refusing to declare herself, was he to sacrifice his crown and dominions uselessly to the vengeance of Napoleon, to please the Emperor of Russia and King of Prussia, who for aught he knew might patch up a peace the next day? and this was the more probable from their having been beaten at Bautzen, which circumstance also might with equal probability induce Austria to coalesce with, instead of against France. All the other members of the Confederation of the Rhine remained staunch to Napoleon and poured their contingents into Saxony; was he to be the only unfaithful ally and towards a Monarch who had always treated him with the strongest marks of attachment and regard? and when neither Russia nor Prussia were likely to give him the least assistance? He therefore returned to Dresden; and Napoleon took up his grand position the whole length of the Elbe, from the mountains of Bohemia to Hamburgh, thus covering the whole of Saxony with his army. Austria however at last comes forward to join the coalition. Fortune changes; the Saxon troops, tired of beholding their country the perpetual theatre of war and trusting to the generosity of the Allies, go over to them in the middle of a battle, and decide, thereby, the fate of the day at Leipzig. The King of Saxony is made a prisoner, and then he is punished for what he could not help. Why was he to be punished more than any other member of the Confederation of the Rhine? One would think that the seasonable defection of his troops at Leipzig should have induced the Allies to treat him with moderation. The other States of the Confederation did not abandon Napoleon until after he was completely beaten at Leipzig; and Austria refused to accede to the coalition until a carte blanche was given her to help herself in Italy.

Let every impartial man therefore review the whole of this proceeding and then say whether the King of Saxony, so proverbial for his probity, so adored by his subjects, deserved to be insulted by such an unfeeling letter as that of Castlereagh. No! the King of Saxony better deserves to reign than any King of them all. Would they had even a small share of his virtues! Another proof and a still stronger one of the great integrity and honor of this excellent Prince, is, that when Napoleon offered to mediatize in his favor the various ducal Houses in Saxony, such as Weimar, Gotha, Cobourg, etc., and to annex these countries to his dominions, he declined the offer. Would Prussia, Austria, or Hanover have been so scrupulous?

The young ladies here, tho' well versed and delighting in various branches of litterature, cannot overcome that strong national propensity to tales and romances wherein the terrific and supernatural abounds; in all their romances accordingly this taste prevails strongly; nay, even in some of the romances, where the scene is laid in later times, there is some such anachronism as the story of a spectre.

I recollect reading a novel, the scene of which is laid in Italy about the time of the battle of Marengo, wherein a ghost is introduced who contributes mainly to the unravelling of the piece. A young lady here of considerable talent and of general information confessed to me, when I asked her, what subjects pleased her most in the way of reading, that nothing gave her so much delight as "Geistergeschichten." Lewis' romance of "The Monk" is a great favorite in Germany.[128] By the bye, his poetical tale of Alonzo and Imogen is evidently taken from a similar subject in the Volks-maehrchen.

The weather has set in very cold and the Elbe is nearly frozen over. It is impossible to go out of the house without a Pelz or cloak lined with fur; for otherwise, on leaving a room heated by a stove, the effect of the cold is almost instantaneous and brings on an ague fit. This I attribute to the excessive heat kept up in the rooms and houses by the stoves. As smoking is so prevalent here, this contributes much also to keeping the body in a praeternatural heat and rendering it still more obnoxious to cold on removal from a room to the open air. It has been remarked by a medical author, in the Russian campaign in 1812, that the soldiers of the southern nations and provinces, viz., Provencaux, Gascons, Italians, Spaniards, and Portuguese, endured the cold much better and suffered less from it than the Germans and Hollanders. The reason is sufficiently obvious: the former live in the open air even in the middle of winter and seldom make use of a fire to warm themselves; whereas the Germans and Dutch live in an atmosphere of stove-heat and smoke and seldom like to stir abroad in the open air during winter, unless necessity obliges them. Hence they become half-baked, as it were; their nerves are unstrung, their flesh flabby and they become so chilly, as to suffer from the smallest exposure to the atmosphere. In the houses in Germany, on account of the stoves, the cold is never felt, whereas it is very severely in Italy and Spain where many of the houses have no fireplaces. On this account I prefer Germany as a winter residence, for I think there is no sensation so disagreeable as to feel cold in the house. In the open air I do not care a fig for it, for my cloak lined with bearskin protects me amply. The climate here in winter is a dry cold, which is much more salubrious and agreeable to me than the changeable, humid climate of Great Britain, where, though the cold is not so great, it is much more severely felt.

[126] Tacitus, Germania, C, VIII.—ED.

[127] Martin Sherlock (d. 1797), author of Lettres d'un voyageur anglais, which were published in Paris 1779 and, the year after, in London.

[128] Matthew Gregory Lewis, 1775-1818, published Ambrosio or the Monk in 1795.—ED.



CHAPTER XVIII

MARCH-APRIL 1819

Journey from Dresden to Leipzig—The University of Leipzig—Liberal spirit—The English disliked in Saxony—The English Government hostile to liberty—Journey to Frankfort—From Frankfort to Metz and Paris—A.F. Lemaitre—Bon voyage to the Allies—Return to England.

I left Dresden on the 2nd March, 1819. A Landkutsche conveyed me as far as Leipzig in a day and half, stopping the first night at Oschaly, where there is a good inn. At Leipzig I put up at the Hotel de Baviere and remained five days. Leipzig is a fine old Gothic city. It is, as everybody knows, famous for its University and its Fair, which is held twice a year, in spring and in autumn, and which is the greatest mart for books perhaps in the world. The University of Leipzig and indeed all the Universities of Germany are in bad repute among the Obscuranten and eteignoirs of the day, on account of the liberal ideas professed by the teachers and scholars. In the University of Leipzig every thing may be learned by those who chuse to apply, but those who prefer remaining idle may do so, as there is less compulsion than at the English Universities. There is however such a national enthusiasm for learning, in all parts of Germany, that the most careless and ill-disposed youth would never be about to support the ridicule of his fellow students were he backward in obtaining prizes, but after all I have heard of the dissipation, lawlessness, and want of discipline at Leipzig, I can safely affirm that all these stories are grossly exaggerated: and I fancy there is little other dissipation going forward than amours with Stubenmaedchen. I do not hear of any drunkenness, gaming or horse racing; nor do the professors themselves, who ought to be the best judges of what is going on, complain of the insubordination of their pupils. But what I principally admire in this, and indeed in other German Universities, is that there are no distinctions of rank, such as gold tassels, etc., no servile attention paid to sprigs of nobility, as in the Universities in England, where the Heads of Colleges and Fellows are singularly condescending to the son of a Peer, a Minister, or a Bishop. Perfect equality prevails in Leipzig and the son of the proudest Reichsgraf is allowed no more priviledges than the son of a barber; nor do the professors make the least difference between them. In fact, in spite of the vulgar belief in England respecting the hauteur of the German noblesse and the vassalage of the other classes, I must say, from experience, that the German nobility show far less hauteur and have in general more really liberal ideas than most part of our English aristocracy, and a German burgher or shop-keeper would disdain to cringe before a nobleman as many shopkeepers, aye, and even gentry, are sometimes known to do in England. Another circumstance too proves on how much more liberal a footing Leipzig and other German Universities are than our English ones, which is, that in England none but those who profess the religion of the Church of England, or conform to its ritual, are admitted; but here all sects are tolerated and admitted, and all live in perfect harmony with each other. The students are at liberty to chuse their place of worship and the sermons that are preached in the Catholic as well as the Protestant churches are such as sensible men of whatever opinion might listen to with profit, and without being shocked by absurdities or intolerant ideas.

Mysteries, theologic sophistry and politics are carefully avoided, and a pure morality, a simple theosophy, comprehensible to the meanest understanding, pervades these simple discourses. The consequence of this toleration and liberal spirit is that an union between the Lutheran and Calvinistic churches has been effected.

I met a number of mercantile people at the table d'hote at Leipzig in the Hotel de Baviere, and I entered a good deal into conversation with them; but when they discovered I was an Englishman, I could see a sudden coldness and restraint in their demeanour, for we are very unpopular in Germany, owing to the conduct of our Cabinet, and they have a great distrust of us. The Saxons complain terribly of our Government for sanctioning the dismemberment of their country and of the insolent letter of Castlereagh. It is singular enough that Saxony is the only country where English goods are allowed to be imported free of duty; but our great and good ally the King of Prussia (as these goods must pass thro' his territory) has imposed a tolerably heavy transit duty. I am glad of it; this is as it should be. I rejoice at any obstacles that are put to British commerce; I rejoice when I hear of our merchants suffering and I quite delight to hear of a bankruptcy. They, the English merchants, contributed with their gold to uphold the corrupt system of Pitt and to carry on unjust, unreasonable and liberticide wars. Yes! it is perfectly fit and proper that the despotic governments they have contributed to restore should make them feel their gratitude. If the French since their Revolution have not always fought for liberty, they have done so invariably for science; and wherever they carried their victorious arms, abuses were abolished, ameliorations of all kinds followed, and the arts of life were improved. Our Government since the accession of George III has never raised its arm except in favor of old abuses, to uphold despotism and unfair privileges, or to establish commercial monopoly. Our victories so far from being of beneficial effect to the countries wherein we gained them, have been their curse. We can interfere and be prodigal of money and blood to crush any attempt of the continental nations towards obtaining their liberty; but when it is necessary to intercede in favour of oppressed patriots, then we are told that we have no right to interfere with the domestic policy of other nations. We can send ships to protect and carry off in safety a worthless Royal family, as at Naples in 1799, but we can view with heartless indifference, and even complacency, the murders committed in Spain by the infamous Ferdinand and his severities against those to whom he owes his crown, all of whom had the strongest daim to our protection as having fought with us in the same cause and contributed to our success.

The Platz at Leipzig is large and here it is that the fair is held. The theatre is an elegant building and lies just outside one of the gates of the city. Innumerable shops of booksellers are here and it is astonishing at how cheap a rate printing in all languages is carried forward.

There are some pleasant promenades in the environs of Leipzig; but this is not a time of the year to judge of the beauty of the country. I went, however, to view the house occupied by Napoleon on the eve of the battle of Leipzig. A monument is to be erected to the memory of Poniatowsky in the spot where he perished.

I started from Leipzig on 7th March at eleven o'clock. I was five days en route from Leipzig to Frankfort, tho' the distance does not exceed forty-five German miles. I travelled in the diligence, but had I known that the arrangements were so uncomfortable, I should have preferred going in a Landkutsche, which would have made the journey in seven days and afforded me an opportunity of stopping every night to repose; whereas in the diligence, tho' they go en poste, they travel exceedingly slow and it is impossible to persuade the postillion to accelerate his usual pace. He is far more careful of his horses than of his passengers. This I however excuse; but it is of the frequent stoppages and bad arrangement of them that I complain. Instead of stopping at some town for one whole night or two whole nights out of the five, they stop almost at every town for three, four and five hours; so that these short stoppages do not give you time enough to go to bed and they are besides generally made in the day time or early in the morning and evening. We passed thro' the following cities and places of eminence, viz., Lutzen; the spot where Gustavus Adolphus was killed is close to the road on the left hand with a plain stone and the initials G.A. inscribed on it. Weimar is a very neat city and where I should like much to have staid; but I had only time to view the outside of the Palace and the Stadthaus. Erfurt and Gotha are both fine looking cities. In Gotha I had only time to see the outside of the Residenz Schloss or Ducal Palace, which is agreeably situated on an eminence, and to remark in the Neumarkt Kirche the portrait of Duke Bernard of Saxe Weimar and the monuments of the princes of that family. At Erfurt there is the tomb of a Count Gleichen who was made prisoner in the Holy Land, in the time of the Crusades, and was released by a Mahometan Princess on condition of his espousing her. The Count was already married in Germany and there he had left his wife; but such was his gratitude to the fair Musulmane, that he married her with the full consent of his German wife and they all three lived happily together. Fulda, where we stopped four hours, appears a fine city, and is situated on an eminence commanding a noble view of a very fertile and extensive plain. The Episcopal Palace and the churches are magnificent, and the general appearance of the town is striking. The Bishopric of Fulda was formerly an independent ecclesiastical state, but was secularised at the treaty of Luneville and now forms part of the territory of Hesse-Cassel.

The Feld-zeichen of Hesse-Cassel is green and red. After passing thro' Hanau, where we halted three hours, which gave me an opportunity of viewing the field of battle there, we proceeded to Frankfort and arrived there at twelve o'clock the 12th of March. I put up at the Swan inn. In summer time the country about Fulda and in general between Fulda and Frankfort must be very pleasing from the variety of the features of the ground. We lived very well and very cheap on the road. The price of the diligence from Leipzig to Frankfort was eleven Reichsthaler.

After remaining three days to repose at Frankfort I took my place to Mayence and from thence to Metz and Paris. In the diligence from Mayence and indeed all the way to Paris I found a very amusing society. There were two physicians and M. L[emaitre], a most entertaining man and of inexhaustible colloquial talent; for, except when he slept, he never ceased to talk. His conversation was however always interesting and entertaining, for he had figured in the early part of the French Revolution and was well known in the political and litterary world as the editor of a famous journal called Le Bonhomme Richard.[129]

Metz is a large, well built and strongly fortified city. Verdun, thro' which we passed, became quite an English colony during the war from the number of detenus of that nation who were compelled to reside there. At Epernay we drank a few bottles of Champagne and a toast was given by one of the company, which met with general applause. It was Bon voyage to the Allies who have now finally evacuated France to the great joy of the whole nation, except of the towns where they were cantoned, where they contributed much towards enriching the shopkeepers and inhabitants.

I remained in Paris six days and then proceeded to England.

[129] Le bonhomme Richard aux bonnes gens was not a "famous journal," as only two numbers appeared in 1790 (M. Tourneux, Bibliographie de l'histoire de Paris pendant la Revolution, vol. 11, p. 585, n. 10, 511). The publisher, Antoine-Francois Lemaitre, whom Major Erye mentions in this passage, was the author of some other revolutionary pamphlets, e.g., Lettres bougrement patriotiques, etc.—ED.



INDEX

Acheron, Lake. Adam, Major-General commands Light Brigade of General Sir H. Clinton's division. Aix-la-Chapelle: Hotel-de-Ville; Cathedral; relics of Charlemagne; Napoleon's benefactions; overbearing demeanour of Prussian soldiers; Faro bank; interesting Tyrolese girl; baths. Albanot Villa Doria, ancient monument. Albany, Countess of, her claim to be the legitimate Queen of England; Alfieri's attachment to. Alexandria: Austrian Government destroys fortifications of Alfieri: compared with Shakespeare, Schiller, and Voltaire, monument erected to, by Canova; his sonnet to Countess of Albany. Alsace-Lorraine: severance of, from France anticipated by Prussian officers. Andernach: ruins of palace of Kings of Austrasia, church containing embalmed body of Emperor Valentinian; crossing of Rhine by Julius Caesar at. Angouleme, Duchesse d': temperament and religious fanaticism of. Antwerp: English families fly from Brussels to. Archenholz: historian of the Seven Years' War. Army of the Loire: exemplary conduct of, when disbanded. Arona: colossal statue of St Charles Borromeus at. Austria: fluctuations in the value of the paper currency of Napoleon's policy as regarded. Avernus, Lake.

Baciocchi, Princess Elise: sister of Napoleon and Sovereign of Lucca. Baffo, Venetian poet. Baiae: baths of Nero, ruins of temples; the Styx; Elysian Fields. Belgium: dislike to severance from France; feeling towards Holland; attachment to Napoleon; preparations for the Campaign; all inhabitants requisitioned for the repair of fortifications. Berlin: occupation of, after Jena, excellent conduct of French troops of occupation; excesses committed by troops of Rhenish Confederation; insolent conduct of troops raised by Prince of Isenburg; art treasures of, respected by French Republican Armies; Unter den Linden; Brandenburger Thor; public buildings; streets; statues of great men in the Wilhelm Platz; Churches; the officers of the Army; anecdote of Blucher. Bern: attempts in 1815 to regain possession of the Canton de Vaud. Bigottini: fine performance at the Grand Opera, Paris. Bingen: Mausethurm, Bishop Hatto. Blacas, Vicomte de: at Court of Louis XVIII at Ghent. Blucher: popularity of, in London, encourages the excesses of his soldiery; nicknames of; narrowly escapes capture at Ligny; saves English at Hougoumont; anecdote related of. Bohemia: dialect of. Bologna: arcades, remarkable picture in gallery of Count Marescalchi; leaning tower; lady-professor of Greek; Carbonari; theatre; women; barbarous dialect. Bonn: Electoral palace; Roman antiquity; legends of the Sieben Gebirge; Das Heimliche Gericht. Bordas, M, politics of. Borgo San Donino, remarkable highway robbery at. Borromean Islands, splendid villa in Isola Bella. Bourbons, the: want of patriotism of the Duc de Berri, their injudicious conduct; Louis XVIII and Monsieur at Ghent; amusing nickname of Louis XVIII; dislike of the French people to; their atrocious policy; send emissaries to South of France from Coblentz; unpopularity of; fulsome adulation of; cause removal of Sismondi from Geneva; character of royal families of France, Spain, and Naples. Brussels: description of, historical associations; Place du Sablon, celebrated fountain; theatres; humanity of inhabitants of, to the wounded after Waterloo.

Caffarelli, Statue of, in Palais du Luxembourg. Canova, works of, in St Peter's, master-pieces in his atelier in Rome; character of his genius. Capellen, Baron de, proclamation of, to the inhabitants of Brussels. Capua, thievishness of lower classes of. Carbonari, degrees and initiation, object; meaning of name. Castlereagh, Lord: insolent letter of, respecting King of Saxony. Catalani: singing of. Ceylon: Frye's travels in. Chalon: affection felt for Napoleon in, Austrian officers in. Charleroy: defeat of Prussian army at. Chateaubriand: at the Court of Louis XVIII at Ghent. Chatham, Earl of: indignation of, at employment of Indians in the War of Independence. Clermont: Peter the Hermit preaches First Crusade in, petrifying well; Swiss regiment; anonymous denunciations; method of cleansing town. Coblentz: monument to Marceau, Bourbon intrigues with Jacobins and Brissotins. Code Napoleon: simplicity and advantages of, as compared with English criminal law. Cologne: Cathedral, the three kings; the eleven thousand virgins; etymology of the name; Jean-Marie Farina. Cremona: Gothic buildings, Campanile of Cathedral. Consalvi, Cardinal: character and abilities of. Campagna: limbs of quartered malefactors hung up on roadsides, armed peasants; the malaria.

David: pictures by, in Palais du Luxembourg. De l'Epee, Abbe: founder of the Institution of the Sourds-Muets. Dessaix: Statue of, in Palais du Luxembourg. De Watteville: disbands his army. Delille, Abbe, his poetry. De Boigne, General: his great services to Scindiah, unjustly accused of treachery towards Tippoo Sahb. Didier: handed over by the Sardinian Government to the French, his execution at Grenoble. Dijon: the town, manufactories of. Dionigi, Mme: literary and artistic attainments of. D'Orfei, Mme. Dresden: The Japanischer Palast, music in; Prince Galhitzin; the King; bridge over the Elbe; Marshal Davoust; Grosser Garten; Ressource Club; etiquette; title of "Rath"; theatres; beds; scholars. Duchesnois, Mlle: fine acting of.

Egypt: striking testimony to the good done by the French in. Ehrenbreitstein: flying bridge, great natural strength; beauty of women of. Ellis, Col. Sir H.: perishes at Waterloo. Emigres, the: incorrigibility of; ingratitude to Napoleon; their foolish expectations; efforts to cause restoration of lands formerly theirs. Ens: whirlpool; the Waternixie. Erfurt: legend of Count Gleichen. Espinassy, General: republican principles of. Eton: principles instilled into boys at. Eustace, Mr: examples of his credulity and bigotry.

Ferrara: Hugo and Parisina; the Po; relics of Ariosto; MSS of Ariosto, Tasso, Guarini; Hospital of St Anna. Firmin: acting of. Fleurus: Prussian army defeated at. Florence: the Duomo; Battisterio; il Sasso di Dante; theatres; public buildings; statues; Gallery; Venus; de Medici; paintings and sculpture; portraits of sovereigns; Roman antiquities; remarkable imitations in wax of human anatomy; Ponte Vecchio; street paving; thickness of walls of houses; Palazzo Pitti; Canova's Venus; Boboli Gardens; Cascino; beauty of the women; Pegasus; Italian fondness for gaudy colours; Canova's monument to Alfieri; Church of Santa Croce; the Florentine Westminster Abbey; academies; La Crusca; English travellers; Lord Dillon; story illustrating Florentine life. Fouche: complains of the conduct of the Allies. Frankfort: Venus Vulgivaga; Jews; cathedral; inauguration of Roman Caesars in the Roemer; the Golden Bull; portraits of the Emperors; theatre; adaptation of German language to music; political opinion in; dislike to Austria. French Revolution: worst excesses of, surpassed.

Galileo: monument erected to, in church of Santa Croce. Gauthier, M.: exiled to Lausanne. Geneva: scenery, Fort de l'Ecluse; arcades; J.J. Rousseau; Calvin; Servetus; sentiments of Genevese towards Napoleon and the Revolution; literary aptitude of Genevese; attachment to their country; the women; French refugees refused an asylum in; admitted into Helvetic Confederation. Genoa: the women of, peculiarities of the streets; ducal palace; Columbus; bridge of Carignano; churches. Georges, Mlle: fine acting of, her rendering of "Agrippina"; plays the part of "Clytemnestra," supported by her sister as "Iphigenie". Ghent: Court of Louis XVIII at. Girolamo, Signor: anecdote of. Godesberg: interesting ruins near. Granet: remarkable pictures by. Grassini: singing of. Grillparzer, author of the tragedy "Sappho". Grotto of Pausilippo. Grotto del Cane. Guerin: pictures by, in Palais du Luxembourg. Guillotine, the.

Helvetic Confederation: guaranteed by the Allied Powers in 1814, Geneva admitted into. Herculaneum. Hockheim; Rhenish wines. Holland: feeling towards the House of Orange, regret at loss of Cape of Good Hope and Ceylon. Hougoumont: Bulow and Blucher march to the assistance of the English at devastation of. Hulin, General: cashiers a Prussian officer in the French service.

India: Frye's travels in. Innspruck: the Hofkirche, statues of kings and princes connected with Maximilian I.

Kleber: statue of, in Palais du Luxembourg. Klingmann, Philipp: plot of his tragedy "Faust".

Labedoyere: execution of. Lacoste: acts as Napoleon's guide at Waterloo. Lafayette: rebukes British Commissioner at the Conference. Lafond: acting of. Lafontaine, Augustus: comparison of works of, with the "Nouvelle Heloise" of Rousseau. La Harpe, General: influences Emperor of Russia in favour of the Vaudois. Lamarque: sent by the Convention to arrest Dumouriez, delivered over to the Austrians; votes for Napoleon. Landshut: Church of St Martin at. Language: influence of, upon the poetry and plays of Italy, France, England and Germany. Lausanne: steep ascents, beauty of environs; Republican principles of; intolerant discourse of minister. Leipzig: Saxon troops go over to the Mies during the battle of, the University; unpopularity of the English in. Leghorn: Hebrew families in, Don Felipe III; Smollett's tomb. Liege: situation of, coal-pits near; commerce with Holland; fortifications; destroyed by Joseph II. Linz: beauty of the women, curious incident; learned innkeepers. Lodi: interesting model in the Hotel des Invalides of battle of. Louvre: works of art in, stripping of, by the Allies. Lucca: female servants, the amoroso; Dante's mountain. Lyons: buildings, scenery; feelings towards Napoleon; character of inhabitants; manufactures.

Maastricht: situation, Montagne de St Pierre. Machiavelli: entombed in church of Santa Croce. Macon: quai, wine; grisettes. Maffei: his "Polyphonte" compared with that of Voltaire. Maitland, Captain: Napolean surrenders to. Mantua: situation, Cathedral; monuments of the Gonzagas; the T palace and gardens. Marengo: the Battle of, Commemoration column thrown down. Maria Louisa: ordered to quit papal territory, enthusiastic reception of, at Bologna; victim of a strange theft. Mars, Mlle: graceful acting of. Massieu: pupil of the Abbe Sicard. Mayence: Cathedral, Citadel. Michel Angelo: anecdote of. Milan: Teatro della Scala, the Duomo; the women of; dialect; the Zecca; palace; Ambrosian Library; hospital; Teatro Olimpico; Porta del Sempione; Italian comedy and audiences; Teatro Girolamo; Milanese twang; ballet; acting of La Pallerini. Mittenwald: great raft, interesting journey. Moelk: tradition of the Devil's Wall, ruins of Castle of Dierenstein; Richard Coeur de Lion. Mont Cenis: description of the Chaussee. Mont St. Jean: dreadful sight on plateau of. Montefiascone: story of the Vino d'Est. Morice, Colonel: death at Waterloo. Munich: the King, national theatre; social life in; female head-dress. Murat: Italian opinion of.

Namur: situation of, Citadel demolished by Joseph II; complaints against. Prussian soldiery. Napoleon: takes tribute of works of art from vanquished Governments, calumniated by the emigres; unjust aspersions on; narrow escape from capture; confident of success before Waterloo; constructs Chaussee of Mont Cenis. Naples: life of a man of fashion in; Etruscan vases and papyri in museum; theatres; Pulcinello; social advantages; lazzaroni; dialect; effect of general ignorance. Nelson, Lord: conduct towards Caraccioli, Neuwied: University of. Ney, Marshall: Wellington and Emperor of Russia refuse to interfere in favour of

Padua: University; Church of St Anthony; Palazzo della Giustizia; tomb of Livy. Paris: Louis XVIII in, Kotzebue on the Palais Royal; Cafe Montausier; the Louvre; statues and paintings collected by the French Government; productions at the Grand Opera; Column of the Place Vendome; Gardens of the Tuileries; Chamber of Deputies; the Invalides; models of the fortresses of France; Picture Gallery of the Palais du Luxembourg; frequency of quarrels between French and Prussian officers in the; Palais Royal; behaviour of English officers in; masterpieces performed in the Theatre francais; Ney shot in the Gardens of the Luxembourg. Parma: "L'Amfiteatro Farnese", paintings; birthplace of Cassius. Passau: junction of the Danube, Inn and Illst. Perugia. Pescia, advantages of living in. Picton, Lieut-Genl Sir T.: perishes at Waterloo. Piedmont: character of the lower classes of. Pillnitz: the palace; Treaty of. Pisa. Pitt: credited with the invention of the sinking fund. Pius VII: character and virtues of. Pompeii: amphitheatre; houses; Temple of Isis; Praetorium; antiquities removed to Museum of Portici. Pontine Marshes. Prague: situation, bridge over the Mulda; remarkable statue; Jews; palaces of the Wallensteins and Colloredos; St John Nepomucene; Joseph II's ingenious method of extorting money from the Jews; Catalani; story of the Duchess Libussa.

Rafaelli: mosaic work of. Rho: ancient tree. Rome: censorship of books at the Dogana, Coliseum; Arch of Constantine; Via Sacra—excavations; Tarpeian Rock; Capitol; St Peter's; anecdote of Michel Angelo; statue of St Peter; masterpieces of sculpture in Capitoline Museum; Transteverini; effect of the settling of foreign artists in; Santa Maria Maggiore; Church of St John Lateran; Egyptian obelisk; La Scala Santa; Quirinal; fountains; Column of Trajan; baths of Diocletian; theatres; masterpieces of art in the Vatican Museum; statue of Jupiter Capitolinus; stanze di Rafaello; Appian Road; social life in; the Avvocati; Papal Government; post office defalcations; the Carnival; races in the Corso; masquerades; Sovereigns and persons of distinction living in Rome in 1818; Easter in; Swiss Guard; Noble Guard; papal benediction; illumination of St Peter's; fireworks from Castle of St Angelo; the brigand Barbone; his wife.

Savoy: character of inhabitants of. Schoenbrunn: anecdote of Napoleon's son. Schuyler, General: his reproof of General Burgoyne. Scindiah: career of. Sgricci, Signor: his genius for improvisation. Sicard, Abbee; director of the Institution of the Sourds-Muets, eulogises Sir Sidney Smith. Sienna: cathedral, Piccolomini monument; dialect. Simplon: road over the, Chaussee; maisons de refuge. Sismondi, the historian banished from Geneva. Smith, Lucius F.: friend of De Boigne. Smith, Sir Sidney: his eulogy of the Abbe Sicard. Spoleto: ruins of ancient buildings. St Cloud: favourite residence of Napoleon. St Eustatius: pillaged by Admiral Rodney. St Germain: depot for articles plundered by Prussian officers. St Helena: injustice of Napoleon's banishment to. Stewart, Lord: conduct of, at Conference of French Commissioners with the Allies.

Taddei, Rosa: her talent for improvisation. Talma, his ailing at the Theatre Francais. Thorwaldsen: character of his genius. Tivoli: the Villa d'Este, Adrian's Villa. Toelz: remarkable groups of figures in wood, representing history of Christ. Tournay, citadel of. Trevoux: scenery on the road between Macon and, hotel-keeper's beautiful daughter. Turin: Chapelle du Saint Suaire, remarkable works of art in; the King of Sardinia. Tuscany: contrast with papal dominions, pronunciation; peasantry; fondness of Tuscan women for dress; feeling towards Napoleon in; character of the people; house of Americo Vespucci. Tyrol, the: general description of, dress of the peasant women.

Valais: cretins of. Vaud, Canton de: character of inhabitants of, gratitude to France; democratic spirit; La Harpe; defends its independence; hatred of French Royalists to. Velino: remarkable cascade. Venice: Canale Grande, Rialto; palaces of great families; the Merceria; water-fete; Piazza di San Marco; Church of St Mark; Campanile; variety of costumes in; dialect; social life in; Doge's palace; theatres; gondolas. Verbruggen, H.: work of, in church of St Gudule, Brussels. Verona: amphitheatre, Palladio; Scala family; social advantages in. Versailles: magnificence of. "Vertraute Briefe" the. Vesuvius: eruptions, lava. Vicenza. Vienna: Art treasures of, respected by French Republican armies, great raft; streets; Cathedral; Hofburg; Congress of; Wechselbank; Belvedere Palace; Prater; theatres. Visconte, Galeazzo: builds church of the Certosa. Volnais, Mlle: Acting of. Voltaire: his play, "Merope", his benefactions to Ferney; relics of; portraits of contemporaries in his chateau.

Walker, Adam: his lectures to Etonians stopped. Wardle, Col.: republican principles of, anonymous denunciation of. Waterloo: French officer's remarks on. Wellington: his confidence in the result of the campaign, gallantry of; checks frequency of corporal punishment in the army. Wilson, Maj.-Genl: accompanies Frye on a tour through the theatre of War. Wilson, Sir R.: his charges against Napoleon. Wirion: removed from office by Napoleon.

York, Duke of, opposes frequent corporal punishment in the Army.

Zedera, Chevalier: political dispute with Genevese, his journey with Frye to Italy; his parting with Frye.

THE END