If thro' the strong and beauteous Fence Of Temperance and Innocence, And wholsome Labours, and a quiet Mind, Diseases passage find; They must not think here to assail A Land unarm'd, or without Guard, They must fight for it, and dispute it hard, Before they can prevail; Scarce any Plant is used here, Which 'gainst some Aile a Weapon does not bear.

We have said how necessary it is, that in the Composure of a Sallet, every Plant should come in to bear its part, without being over-power'd by some Herb of a stronger Taste, so as to endanger the native Sapor and vertue of the rest; but fall into their places, like the Notes in Music, in which there should be nothing harsh or grating: And tho' admitting some Discords (to distinguish and illustrate the rest) striking in the more sprightly, and sometimes gentler Notes, reconcile all Dissonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Composition. Thus the Comical Master-Cook, introduc'd by Damoxenus, when asked [Greek: pos esin autois onmphonia]; What Harmony there was in Meats? The very same (says he) that a Diatessaron, Diapente, and Diapason have one to another in a Consort of Music: And that there was as great care requir'd, not to mingle [53]Sapores minime consentientes, jarring and repugnant Tastes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who should be no better vers'd in Democritus. The whole Scene is very diverting, as Athenaeus presents it; and to the same sense Macrobius, Saturn. lib. I. cap. I. In short, the main Skill of the Artist lies in this:

What choice to choose, for delicacy best; What Order so contriv'd, as not to mix Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring Taste after Taste, upheld by kindliest change.

As our [54]Paradisian Bard introduces Eve, dressing of a Sallet for her Angelical Guest.

Thus, by the discreet choice and mixture of the Oxoleon (Oyl, Vinegar, Salt, &c.) the Composition is perfect; so as neither the Prodigal, Niggard, nor Insipid, should (according to the Italian Rule) prescribe in my Opinion; since One may be too profuse, the Other [55]over-saving, and the Third (like himself) give it no Relish at all: It may be too sharp, if it exceed a grateful Acid; too Insulse and flat, if the Profusion be extream. From all which it appears, that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent Sallet, and how many Transcendences belong to an accomplish'd Sallet-Dresser, so as to emerge an exact Critic indeed, He should be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various Species of Tastes, according to the Scheme set us down in the Tables of the Learned [56]Dr. Grew, to which I refer the Curious.

'Tis moreover to be consider'd, that Edule Plants are not in all their Tastes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to consist of different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; so require they different Juices to nourish and supply them: Wherefore the force and activity of some Plants lie in the Root; and even the Leaves of some Bitter-Roots are sweet, and e contra. Of others, in the Stem, Leaves, Buds, Flowers, &c. Some exert their Vigour without Decoction; others being a little press'd or contus'd; others again Raw, and best in Consort; some alone, and per se without any [Greek: skenasia], Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore must be taken by the Collector, that what he gathers answer to these Qualities; and that as near as he can, they consist (I speak of the cruder Salleting) of the Oluscula, and ex foliis pubescentibus, or (as Martial calls them) Prototomi rudes, and very tenderest Parts Gems, young Buds, and even first Rudiments of their several Plants; such as we sometimes find in the Craws of the Wood-Culver, Stock-Dove, Partridge, Pheasants, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural Sallet, pick'd, and almost dress'd to our hands.

I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients be exquisitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, slimy, canker'd, dry, spotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather discreetly sprinkl'd, than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water, especially Lettuce, which Dr. [57]Muffet thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, I suppose he means of the Cabbage-kind, whose heads are sufficiently protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After washing, let them remain a while in the Cullender, to drain the superfluous moisture: And lastly, swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin; and so they will be in perfect condition to receive the Intinctus following.

II. That the Oyl, an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary, as to have obtain'd the name of Cibarium (and with us of Sallet-Oyl) be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of a pallid Olive green, without Smell, or the least touch of rancid, or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all; but smooth, light, and pleasant upon the Tongue; such as the genuine Omphacine, and native Luca Olives afford, fit to allay the tartness of Vinegar, and other Acids, yet gently to warm and humectate where it passes. Some who have an aversion to Oyl, substitute fresh Butter in its stead; but 'tis so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means to be allow'd.

III. Thirdly, That the Vinegar and other liquid Acids, perfectly clear, neither sowre, Vapid or spent; be of the best Wine Vinegar, whether Distill'd, or otherwise Aromatiz'd, and impregnated with the Infusion of Clove-gillyflowers, Elder, Roses, Rosemary, Nasturtium, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant.

A Verjuice not unfit for Sallet, is made by a Grape of that Name, or the green immature Clusters of most other Grapes, press'd and put into a small Vessel to ferment.

IV. Fourthly, That the Salt (aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum, as Plutarch calls it) detersive, penetrating, quickning (and so great a resister of Putrefaction, and universal use, as to have sometimes merited Divine Epithets) be of the brightest Bay grey-Salt; moderately dried, and contus'd, as being the least Corrosive: But of this, as of Sugar also, which some mingle with the Salt (as warming without heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty; provided none, save Ladies, were of the Mess; whilst the perfection of Sallets, and that which gives them the name, consists in the grateful Saline Acid-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be most esteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been so nice, and luxuriously curious as for the heightning, and (as they affect to speak) giving the utmost poinant and Relevee in lieu of our vulgar Salt, to recommend and cry-up the Essential-Salts and Spirits of the most Sanative Vegetables; or such of the Alcalizate and Fixt; extracted from the Calcination of Baulm, Rosemary, Wormwood, Scurvy-grass, &c. Affirming that without the gross Plant, we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreshing Cordials, and all the Materia Medica out of the Salt-Cellar only: But to say no more of this Impertinence, as to Salts of Vegetables; many indeed there be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, however different in Taste, Crystals, and Figure: It being a question, whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their Simples, unless they could be made without Colcination. Franciscus Redi, gives us his Opinion of this, in a Process how they are to be prepar'd; and so does our Learned [58]Doctor (whom we lately nam'd) whether Lixivial, Essential, Marine, or other factitious Salts of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But since 'tis thought all Fixed Salts made the common way, are little better than our common Salt, let it suffice, that our Sallet-Salt be of the best ordinary Bay-Salt, clean, bright, dry, and without claminess.

Of Sugar (by some call'd Indian-Salt) as it is rarely us'd in Sallet, it should be of the best refined, white, hard, close, yet light and sweet as the Madera's: Nourishing, preserving, cleansing, delighting the Taste, and preferrable to Honey for most uses. Note, That both this, Salt, and Vinegar, are to be proportion'd to the Constitution, as well as what is said of the Plants themselves. The one for cold, the other for hot stomachs.

V. That the Mustard (another noble Ingredient) be of the best Tewksberry; or else compos'd of the soundest and weightiest Yorkshire Seed, exquisitely sifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little (not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the consistence of a Pap with Vinegar, in which shavings of the Horse-Radish have been steep'd: Then cutting an Onion, and putting it into a small Earthen Gally-Pot, or some thick Glass of that shape; pour the Mustard over it, and close it very well with a Cork. There be, who preserve the Flower and Dust of the bruised Seed in a well-stopp'd Glass, to temper, and have it fresh when they please. But what is yet by some esteem'd beyond all these, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the Indian Nasturtium, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little Levain, and so from time to time made fresh, as indeed all other Mustard should be.

Note, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a polish'd Cannon-Bullet, in a large wooden Bowl-Dish, or which is most preferr'd, ground in a Quern contriv'd for this purpose only.

VI. Sixthly, That the Pepper (white or black) be not bruis'd to too small a Dust; which, as we caution'd, is very prejudicial. And here let me mention the Root of the Minor Pimpinella, or small Burnet Saxifrage; which being dried, is by some extoll'd beyond all other Peppers, and more wholsom.

Of other Strewings and Aromatizers, which may likewise be admitted to inrich our Sallet, we have already spoken, where we mention Orange and Limon-peel; to which may also be added, Jamaica-Pepper, Juniper-berries, &c. as of singular Vertue.

Nor here should I omit (the mentioning at least of) Saffron, which the German Housewives have a way of forming into Balls, by mingling it with a little Honey; which throughly dried, they reduce to Powder, and sprinkle it over their Sallets for a noble Cordial. Those of Spain and Italy, we know, generally make use of this Flower, mingling its golden Tincture with almost every thing they eat; But its being so apt to prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we little incourage its admittance into our Sallet.

VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of fresh and new-laid Eggs, boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and mash'd with the Mustard, Oyl, and Vinegar; and part to cut into quarters, and eat with the Herbs.

VIII. Eighthly, (according to the super-curious) that the Knife, with which the Sallet Herbs are cut (especially Oranges, Limons, &c.) be of Silver, and by no means of Steel, which all Acids are apt to corrode, and retain a Metalic relish of.

IX. Ninthly and Lastly, That the Saladiere, (Sallet-Dishes) be of Porcelane, or of the Holland-Delft-Ware; neither too deep nor shallow, according to the quantity of the Sallet Ingredients; Pewter, or even Silver, not at all so well agreeing with Oyl and Vinegar, which leave their several Tinctures. And note, That there ought to be one of the Dishes, in which to beat and mingle the Liquid Vehicles; and a second to receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they are to be pour'd; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually stirr'd, 'till all the Furniture be equally moisten'd: Some, who are husbands of their Oyl, pour at first the Oyl alone, as more apt to communicate and diffuse its Slipperiness, than when it is mingled and beaten with the Acids; which they pour on last of all; and 'tis incredible how small a quantity of Oyl (in this quality, like the gilding of Wyer) is sufficient, to imbue a very plentiful assembly of Sallet-Herbs.

The Sallet-Gatherer likewise should be provided with a light, and neatly made Withy-Dutch-Basket, divided into several Partitions.

Thus instructed and knowing in the Apparatus; the Species, Proportions, and manner of Dressing, according to the several Seasons you have in the following Table.

It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble [59]Mr. Boyle, what Herbs were proper and fit to make Sallets with, and how best to order them? we have here (by the Assistance of Mr. London, His Majesty's Principal Gard'ner) reduc'd them to a competent Number, not exceeding Thirty Five; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leaving out, any other Sallet-Plant, mention'd in the foregoing List, under these three or four Heads.

But all these sorts are not to be had at the very same time, and therefore we have divided them into the Quarterly Seasons, each containing and lasting Three Months.

Note, That by Parts is to be understood a Pugil; which is no more than one does usually take up between the Thumb and the two next Fingers. By Fascicule a reasonable full Grip, or Handful.

* * * * *

[Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from their original layout. The left-most columns are converted to "section headers", the column headers have been reproduced above each of these new sections, and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually indicate the restructuring. The original structure is very wide.]

========================================================================= Species. Ordering and Culture. ========================================================================= / 1. Endive, Tied-up to Blanch. 2. Cichory, 3. Sellery, Earth'd-up IX. 4. Sweet-Fennel, Blanch'd 5. Rampions, / 6. Roman Tied-up to Blanch. 7. Cosse Lettuce, 8. Silesian Tied close up. 9. Cabbage / / Pome and Blanch of themselves.

/ 10. Lob-Lettuce, 11. Corn-Sallet, Leaves, all of a midling size. 12. Purslane, / XXVI. 13. Cresses broad, Seed-Leaves, 14. Spinach, curled, / and the next to them. Green 15. Sorrel, French, The fine young Leaves only, Unblanch'd 16. Sorrel, Greenland, / with the first Shoots. 17. Radish, Only the tender young Leaves. 18. Cresses, The Seed-Leaves, and those only next them. 19. Turnip, 20. Mustard, The Seed-Leaves only. 21. Scurvy-grass, / 22. Chervil, The young Leaves 23. Burnet, immediately after 24. Rocket, Spanish, the Seedlings. 25. Persly, / 26. Tarragon, The tender Shoots 27. Mints, / and Tops. 28. Sampier, 29. Balm, The young tender 30. Sage, Red, / Leaves and Shoots. 31. Shalots, 32. Cives and Onion, / The tender young leaves. 33. Nasturtium, Indian The Flowers and Bud-Flowers. 34. Rampion, Belgrade The Seed-Leaves 35. Trip-Madame, / and young Tops. =========================================================================



========================================================================= Month. January, February, and March. ========================================================================= Ordering and Species. Proportion. Culture.

/ Rampions, / 10 Blanch'd Endive, 2 as before Succory, 5 Roots in Number. Fennel, Sweet. 10 Sellery, 4 /

/ Lamb-Lettuce, Lob-Lettuce, / A pugil of each. Radish, Cresses, / Three parts each. Turneps, Mustard, Seedlings, / Of each One part. Scurvy-grass, Spinach, Two parts. Sorrel, Greenland, Green and Sorrel, French Unblanch'd Chervil, sweet, One part of each. Burnet, Rocket, / Twenty large Leaves. Tarragon, Balm, Mint, / One small part of each. Sampier, Shalots, Cives, / Very few Cabbage, Winter. Two pugils or small handfuls.

========================================================================= Month. April, May, and June. ========================================================================= Ordering and Species. Proportion. Culture.

/ Lop, Blanch'd Silesan, Winter, Lettuce. Of each a pugil. Roman, Winter, / /

/ _Radishes_, Three parts. Green Herbs _Cresses_, Two parts. Unblanch'd. _Purselan_, 1 Fasciat, or pretty full gripe _Sorrel_, French, Two parts. Note, _That _Sampier_, One part. the young _Onions_, young. Six parts. Seedling _Sage_-tops,_ the Red, Two parts. Leaves of Orange and _Persley_, Lemon may _Cresses_, the Indian, all these _Lettuce_, Belgrade, Of each One part. months be _Trip-Madame_, mingled with _Chervil_, sweet / the Sallet._ _Burnet_, Two parts.

========================================================================= Month. July, August, and September. ========================================================================= Ordering and Species. Proportion. Culture.

Blanch'd, / Silesian Lettuce, One whole Lettuce. and may be eaten by Roman Lettuce, Two parts. themselves Cress, / with some Nasturtium- Cabbage, Four parts. flowers.

/ Cresses, Nasturtium, / Two parts. Purslane, Lop-Lettuce, / One part. Green Herbs Belgrade, or by Crumpen-Lettuce. / Two parts. themselves or mingl'd Tarragon, One part. with the Blanch'd. Sorrel, French Burnet, / Two parts of each. Trip-Madame, One part.

========================================================================= Month. October, November, and December. ========================================================================= Ordering and Species. Proportion. Culture.

/ _Endive. Two if large, four _Sellery_, if small, Stalk and part of the Root and / tenderest Leaves. Blanch'd _Lop-Lettuce_, _Lambs-Lettuce_, / An handful of each. _Radish_, Three parts. _Cresses_, Two parts.

/ Turneps, Mustard Seedlings, / One part of each. Green Cresses, broad, Spinach, / Two parts of each.

* * * * *



Farther Directions concerning the proper Seasons for the Gathering, Composing, and Dressing of a Sallet.

And First, as to the Season both Plants and Roots are then properly to be Gather'd, and in prime, when most they abound with Juice and in Vigour: Some in the Spring, or a little anticipating it before they Blossom, or are in full Flower: Some in the Autumnal Months; which later Season many prefer, the Sap of the Herb, tho' not in such exuberance, yet as being then better concocted, and so render'd fit for Salleting, 'till the Spring begins a fresh to put forth new, and tender Shoots and Leaves.

This, indeed, as to the Root, newly taken out of the Ground is true; and therefore should such have their Germination stopt the sooner: The approaching and prevailing Cold, both Maturing and Impregnating them; as does Heat the contrary, which now would but exhaust them: But for those other Esculents and Herbs imploy'd in our Composition of Sallets, the early Spring, and ensuing Months (till they begin to mount, and prepare to Seed) is certainly the most natural, and kindly Season to collect and accommodate them for the Table. Let none then consult Culpeper, or the Figure-flingers, to inform them when the governing Planet is in its Exaltation; but look upon the Plants themselves, and judge of their Vertues by their own Complexions.

Moreover, in Gathering, Respect is to be had to their Proportions, as provided for in the Table under that Head, be the Quality whatsoever: For tho' there is indeed nothing more wholsome than Lettuce and Mustard for the Head and Eyes; yet either of them eaten in excess, were highly prejudicial to them both: Too much of the first extreamly debilitating and weakning the Ventricle, and hastning the further decay of sickly Teeth; and of the second the Optic Nerves, and Sight it self; the like may be said of all the rest. I conceive therefore, a Prudent Person, well acquainted with the Nature and Properties of Sallet-Herbs, &c. to be both the fittest Gatherer and Composer too; which yet will require no great Cunning, after once he is acquainted with our Table and Catalogue.

We purposely, and in transitu only, take notice here of the Pickl'd, Muriated, or otherwise prepared Herbs; excepting some such Plants, and Proportions of them, as are of hard digestion, and not fit to be eaten altogether Crude, (of which in the Appendix) and among which I reckon Ash-keys, Broom-buds and Pods, Haricos, Gurkems, Olives, Capers, the Buds and Seeds of Nasturtia, Young Wall-nuts, Pine-apples, Eringo, Cherries, Cornelians, Berberries, &c. together with several Stalks, Roots, and Fruits; Ordinary Pot-herbs, Anis, Cistus Hortorum, Horminum, Pulegium, Satureia, Thyme; the intire Family of Pulse and Legumena; or other Sauces, Pies, Tarts, Omlets, Tansie, Farces, &c. Condites and Preserves with Sugar by the Hand of Ladies; tho' they are all of them the genuine Production of the Garden, and mention'd in our Kalendar, together with their Culture; whilst we confine our selves to such Plants and Esculenta as we find at hand; delight our selves to gather, and are easily prepar'd for an Extemporary Collation, or to Usher in, and Accompany other (more Solid, tho' haply not more Agreeable) Dishes, as the Custom is.

But there now starts up a Question, Whether it were better, or more proper, to Begin with Sallets, or End and Conclude with them? Some think the harder Meats should first be eaten for better Concoction; others, those of easiest Digestion, to make way, and prevent Obstruction; and this makes for our Sallets, Horarii, and Fugaces Fructus (as they call 'em) to be eaten first of all, as agreeable to the general Opinion of the great Hippocrates, and Galen, and of Celsus before him. And therefore the French do well, to begin with their Herbaceous Pottage, and for the Cruder, a Reason is given:

[60]Prima tibi dabitur Ventri Lactuca movendo Utilis, & Poris fila refecta suis.

And tho' this Custom came in about Domitian's time[61], [Greek: ho m arkaioi], they anciently did quite the contrary,

[62]Grataque nobilium Lactuca ciborum.

But of later Times, they were constant at the Ante-coenia, eating plentifully of Sallet, especially of Lettuce, and more refrigerating Herbs. Nor without Cause: For drinking liberally they were found to expell, and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the genial Compotation, the spirituous Liquor gently conciliating Sleep: Besides, that being of a crude nature, more dispos'd, and apt to fluctuate, corrupt, and disturb a surcharg'd Stomach; they thought convenient to begin with Sallets, and innovate the ancient Usage.

[63]——Nam Lactuca innatat acri Post Vinum Stomacho——

For if on drinking Wine you Lettuce eat, It floats upon the Stomach——

The Spaniards, notwithstanding, eat but sparingly of Herbs at Dinner, especially Lettuce, beginning with Fruit, even before the Olio and Hot-Meats come to the Table; drinking their Wine pure, and eating the best Bread in the World; so as it seems the Question still remains undecided with them,

[64]Claudere quae coenas Lactuca solebat avorum Dic mihi cur nostras inchoat illa dapes?

The Sallet, which of old came in at last, Why now with it begin we our Repast?

And now since we mention'd Fruit, there rises another Scruple: Whether Apples, Pears, Abricots, Cherries, Plums, and other Tree, and Ort-yard-Fruit, are to be reckon'd among Salleting; and when likewise most seasonably to be eaten? But as none of these do properly belong to our Catalogue of Herbs and Plants, to which this Discourse is confin'd (bessides what we may occasionally speak of hereafter) there is a very useful [65]Treatise on that Subject already publish'd. We hasten then in the next place to the Dressing, and Composing of our Sallet: For by this time, our Scholar may long to see the Rules reduc'd to Practice, and Refresh himself with what he finds growing among his own Lactuceta and other Beds of the Kitchin-Garden.

* * * * *



DRESSING

I am not ambitious of being thought an excellent Cook, or of those who set up, and value themselves, for their skill in Sauces; such as was Mithacus a Culinary Philosopher, and other Eruditae Gulae; who read Lectures of Hautgouts, like the Archestratus in Athenaeus: Tho' after what we find the Heroes did of old, and see them chining out the slaughter'd Ox, dressing the Meat, and do the Offices of both Cook and Butcher, (for so [66]Homer represents Achilles himself, and the rest of those Illustrious Greeks) I say, after this, let none reproach our Sallet-Dresser, or disdain so clean, innocent, sweet, and Natural a Quality; compar'd with the Shambles Filth and Nidor, Blood and Cruelty; whilst all the World were Eaters, and Composers of Sallets in its best and brightest Age.

The Ingredients therefore gather'd and proportion'd, as above; Let the Endive have all its out-side Leaves stripped off, slicing in the White: In like manner the Sellery is also to have the hollow green Stem or Stalk trimm'd and divided; slicing-in the blanched Part, and cutting the Root into four equal Parts.

Lettuce, Gresses, Radish, &c. (as was directed) must be exquisitely pick'd, cleans'd, wash'd, and put into the Strainer; swing'd, and shaken gently, and, if you please, separately, or all together; Because some like not so well the Blanch'd and Bitter Herbs, if eaten with the rest: Others mingle Endive, Succory, and Rampions, without distinction, and generally eat Sellery by it self, as also Sweet Fennel.

From April till September (and during all the Hot Months) may Guinny-Pepper, and Horse-Radish be left out; and therefore we only mention them in the Dressing, which should be in this manner.

Your Herbs being handsomely parcell'd, and spread on a clean Napkin before you, are to be mingl'd together in one of the Earthen glaz'd Dishes: Then, for the Oxoleon; Take of clear, and perfectly good Oyl-Olive, three Parts; of sharpest Vinegar ([67]sweetest of all Condiments) Limon, or Juice of Orange, one Part; and therein let steep some Slices of Horse-Radish, with a little Salt; Some in a separate Vinegar, gently bruise a Pod of Guinny-Pepper, straining both the Vinegars apart, to make Use of Either, or One alone, or of both, as they best like; then add as much Tewkesbury, or other dry Mustard grated, as will lie upon an Half-Crown Piece: Beat, and mingle all these very well together; but pour not on the Oyl and Vinegar, 'till immediately before the Sallet is ready to be eaten: And then with the Yolk of two new-laid Eggs (boyl'd and prepar'd, as before is taught) squash, and bruise them all into mash with a Spoon; and lastly, pour it all upon the Herbs, stirring, and mingling them 'till they are well and throughly imbib'd; not forgetting the Sprinklings of Aromaticks, and such Flowers, as we have already mentioned, if you think fit, and garnishing the Dish with the thin Slices of Horse-Radish, Red Beet, Berberries, &c.

Note, That the Liquids may be made more, or less Acid, as is most agreeable to your Taste.

These Rules, and Prescriptions duly Observ'd; you have a Sallet (for a Table of Six or Eight Persons) Dress'd, and Accommodated secundum Artem: For, as the [68]Proverb has it,

[Greek: 'Ou oantos andros esin artusai kalos.] Non est cujusvis recte condire.

And now after all we have advanc'd in favour of the Herbaceous Diet, there still emerges a third Inquiry; namely, Whether the Use of Crude Herbs and Plants are so wholesom as is pretended?

What Opinion the Prince of Physicians had of them, we shall see hereafter; as also what the Sacred Records of elder Times seem to infer, before there were any Flesh-Shambles in the World; together with the Reports of such as are often conversant among many Nations and People, who to this Day, living on Herbs and Roots, arrive to incredible Age, in constant Health and Vigour: Which, whether attributable to the Air and Climate, Custom, Constitution, &c. should be inquir'd into; especially, when we compare the Antediluvians mention'd Gen. 1. 29—the whole Fifth and Ninth Chapters, ver. 3. confining them to Fruit and wholesom Sallets: I deny not that both the Air and Earth might then be less humid and clammy, and consequently Plants, and Herbs better fermented, concocted, and less Rheumatick, than since, and presently after; to say nothing of the infinite Numbers of putrid Carcasses of Dead Animals, perishing in the Flood, (of which I find few, if any, have taken notice) which needs must have corrupted the Air: Those who live in Marshes, and Uliginous Places (like the Hundreds of Essex) being more obnoxious to Fevers, Agues, Pleurisies, and generally unhealthful: The Earth also then a very Bog, compar'd with what it likely was before that destructive Cataclysm, when Men breath'd the pure Paradisian Air, sucking in a more aethereal, nourishing, and baulmy Pabulum, so foully vitiated now, thro' the Intemperance, Luxury, and softer Education and Effeminacy of the Ages since.

Custom, and Constitution come next to be examin'd, together with the Qualities, and Vertue of the Food; and I confess, the two first, especially that of Constitution, seems to me the more likely Cause of Health, and consequently of Long-life; which induc'd me to consider of what Quality the usual Sallet Furniture did more eminently consist, that so it might become more safely applicable to the Temper, Humour, and Disposition of our Bodies; according to which, the various Mixtures might be regulated and proportion'd: There's no doubt, but those whose Constitutions are Cold and Moist, are naturally affected with Things which are Hot and Dry; as on the contrary, Hot, and Dry Complexions, with such as cool and refrigerate; which perhaps made the Junior Gordian (and others like him) prefer the frigidae Mensae (as of old they call'd Sallets) which, according to Cornelius Celsus, is the fittest Diet for Obese and Corpulent Persons, as not so Nutritive, and apt to Pamper: And consequently, that for the Cold, Lean, and Emaciated; such Herby Ingredients should be made choice of, as warm, and cherish the Natural Heat, depure the Blood, breed a laudable Juice, and revive the Spirits: And therefore my Lord [69]Bacon shews what are best Raw, what Boil'd, and what Parts of Plants fittest to nourish. Galen indeed seems to exclude them all, unless well accompanied with their due Correctives, of which we have taken care: Notwithstanding yet, that even the most Crude and Herby, actually Cold and Weak, may potentially be Hot, and Strengthning, as we find in the most vigorous Animals, whose Food is only Grass. 'Tis true indeed, Nature has providentially mingl'd, and dress'd a Sallet for them in every field, besides what they distinguish by Smell; nor question I, but Man at first knew what Plants and Fruits were good, before the Fall, by his Natural Sagacity, and not Experience; which since by Art, and Trial, and long Observation of their Properties and Effects, they hardly recover: But in all Events, supposing with [70]Cardan, that Plants nourish little, they hurt as little. Nay, Experience tells us, that they not only hurt not at all, but exceedingly benefit those who use them; indu'd as they are with such admirable Properties as they every day discover: For some Plants not only nourish laudably, but induce a manifest and wholesom Change; as Onions, Garlick, Rochet, &c. which are both nutritive and warm; Lettuce, Purselan, the Intybs, &c. and indeed most of the Olera, refresh and cool: And as their respective Juices being converted into the Substances of our Bodies, they become Aliment; so in regard of their Change and Alteration, we may allow them Medicinal; especially the greater Numbers, among which we all this while have skill but of very few (not only in the Vegetable Kingdom, but in the whole Materia Medica) which may be justly call'd Infallible Specifics, and upon whose Performance we may as safely depend, as we may on such as familiarly we use for a Crude Herb-Sallet; discreetly chosen, mingl'd, and dress'd accordingly: Not but that many of them may be improv'd, and render'd better in Broths, and Decoctions, than in Oyl, Vinegar, and other Liquids and Ingredients: But as this holds not in all, nay, perhaps in few comparatively, (provided, as I said, the Choice, Mixture, Constitution, and Season rightly be understood) we stand up in Defence and Vindication of our Sallet, against all Attacks and Opposers whoever.

We have mentioned Season and with the great Hippocrates, pronounce them more proper for the Summer, than the Winter; and when those Parts of Plants us'd in Sallet are yet tender, delicate, and impregnated with the Vertue of the Spring, to cool, refresh, and allay the Heat and Drought of the Hot and Bilious, Young and over-Sanguine, Cold, Pituit, and Melancholy; in a word, for Persons of all Ages, Humours, and Constitutions whatsoever.

To this of the Annual Seasons, we add that of Culture also, as of very great Importance: And this is often discover'd in the taste and consequently in the Goodness of such Plants and Salleting, as are Rais'd and brought us fresh out of the Country, compar'd with those which the Avarice of the Gardiner, or Luxury rather of the Age, tempts them to force and Resuscitate of the most desirable and delicious Plants.

It is certain, says a [71]Learned Person, that about populous Cities, where Grounds are over-forc'd for Fruit and early Salleting, nothing is more unwholsom: Men in the Country look so much more healthy and fresh; and commonly are longer liv'd than those who dwell in the Middle and Skirts of vast and crowded Cities, inviron'd with rotten Dung, loathsome and common Lay Stalls; whose noisome Steams, wafted by the Wind, poison and infect the ambient Air and vital Spirits, with those pernicious Exhalations, and Materials of which they make the Hot Beds for the raising those Praecoces indeed, and forward Plants and Roots for the wanton Palate; but which being corrupt in the Original, cannot but produce malignant and ill Effects to those who feed upon them. And the same was well observ'd by the Editor of our famous Roger Bacon's Treatise concerning the Cure of Old Age, and Preservation of Youth: There being nothing so proper for Sallet Herbs and other Edule Plants, as the Genial and Natural Mould, impregnate, and enrich'd with well-digested Compost (when requisite) without any Mixture of Garbage, odious Carrion, and other filthy Ordure, not half consum'd and ventilated and indeed reduc'd to the next Disposition of Earth it self, as it should be; and that in Sweet, [72]Rising, Aery and moderately Perflatile Grounds; where not only Plants but Men do last, and live much longer. Nor doubt I, but that every body would prefer Corn, and other Grain rais'd from Marle, Chalk, Lime, and other sweet Soil and Amendments, before that which is produc'd from the Dunghil only. Beside, Experience shews, that the Rankness of Dung is frequently the Cause of Blasts and Smuttiness; as if the Lord of the Universe, by an Act of visible Providence would check us, to take heed of all unnatural Sordidness and Mixtures. We sensibly find this Difference in Cattle and their Pasture; but most powerfully in Fowl, from such as are nourish'd with Corn, sweet and dry Food: And as of Vegetable Meats, so of Drinks, 'tis observ'd, that the same Vine, according to the Soil, produces a Wine twice as heady as in the same, and a less forc'd Ground; and the like I believe of all other Fruit, not to determine any thing of the Peach said to be Poison in Persia; because 'tis a Vulgar Error.

Now, because among other things, nothing more betrays its unclean and spurious Birth than what is so impatiently longed after as Early Asparagus, &c. [73]Dr. Lister, (according to his communicative and obliging Nature) has taught us how to raise such as our Gardiners cover with nasty Litter, during the Winter; by rather laying of Clean and Sweet Wheat-Straw upon the Beds, super-seminating and over-strowing them thick with the Powder of bruised Oyster-Shells, &c. to produce that most tender and delicious Sallet. In the mean while, if nothing will satisfie save what is rais'd Ex tempore, and by Miracles of Art so long before the time; let them study (like the Adepti) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom I knew; That having some Friends of his accidentally come to Dine with him, and wanting an early Sallet, Before they sate down to Table, sowed Lettuce and some other Seeds in a certain Composition of Mould he had prepared; which within the space of two Hours, being risen near two Inches high, presented them with a delicate and tender Sallet; and this, without making use of any nauseous or fulsome Mixture; but of Ingredients not altogether so cheap perhaps. Honoratus Faber (no mean Philosopher) shews us another Method by sowing the Seeds steep'd in Vinegar, casting on it a good quantity of Bean-Shell Ashes, irrigating them with Spirit of Wine, and keeping the Beds well cover'd under dry Matts. Such another Process for the raising early Peas and Beans, &c. we have the like [74]Accounts of: But were they practicable and certain, I confess I should not be fonder of them, than of such as the honest industrious Country-man's Field, and Good Wife's Garden seasonably produce; where they are legitimately born in just time, and without forcing Nature.

But to return again to Health and Long Life, and the Wholesomness of the Herby-Diet, [75]John Beverovicius, a Learn'd Physician (out of Peter Moxa, a Spaniard) treating of the extream Age, which those of America usually arrive to, asserts in behalf of Crude and Natural Herbs: Diphilus of old, as [76]Athenaeus tells us, was on the other side, against all the Tribe of Olera in general; and Cardan of late (as already noted) no great Friend to them; Affirming Flesh-Eaters to be much wiser and more sagacious. But this his [77]Learned Antagonist utterly denies; Whole Nations, Flesh-Devourers (such as the farthest Northern) becoming Heavy, Dull, Unactive, and much more Stupid than the Southern; and such as feed much on Plants, are more Acute, Subtil, and of deeper Penetration: Witness the Chaldaeans, Assyrians, AEgyptians, &c. And further argues from the short Lives of most Carnivorous Animals, compared with Grass Feeders, and the Ruminating kind; as the Hart, Camel, and the longaevous Elephant, and other Feeders on Roots and Vegetables.

I know what is pretended of our Bodies being composed of Dissimilar Parts, and so requiring Variety of Food: Nor do I reject the Opinion, keeping to the same Species; of which there is infinitely more Variety in the Herby Family, than in all Nature bessides: But the Danger is in the Generical Difference of Flesh, Fish, Fruit, &c. with other made Dishes and exotic Sauces; which a wanton and expensive Luxury has introduc'd; debauching the Stomach, and sharpening it to devour things of such difficult Concoction, with those of more easie Digestion, and of contrary Substances, more than it can well dispose of: Otherwise Food of the same kind would do us little hurt: So true is that of [78]Celsus, Eduntur facilius; ad concoctionem autem materiae, genus, & modus pertineat. They are (says he) easily eaten and taken in: But regard should be had to their Digestion, Nature, Quantity and Quality of the Matter. As to that of Dissimilar Parts, requiring this contended for Variety: If we may judge by other Animals (as I know not why we may not) there is (after all the late Contests about Comparative Anatomy) so little Difference in the Structure, as to the Use of those Parts and Vessels destin'd to serve the Offices of Concoction, Nutrition, and other Separations for Supply of Life, &c. That it does not appear why there should need any Difference at all of Food; of which the most simple has ever been esteem'd the best, and most wholsome; according to that of the [79]Naturalist, Hominis cibus utilissimus simplex. And that so it is in other Animals, we find by their being so seldom afflicted with Mens Distempers, deriv'd from the Causes above-mentioned: And if the many Diseases of Horses seem to [80]contradict it, I am apt to think it much imputable to the Rack and Manger, the dry and wither'd Stable Commons, which they must eat or starve, however qualified; being restrained from their Natural and Spontaneous Choice, which Nature and Instinct directs them to: To these add the Closeness of the Air, standing in an almost continu'd Posture; besides the fulsome Drenches, unseasonable Watrings, and other Practices of ignorant Horse-Quacks and surly Grooms: The Tyranny and cruel Usage of their Masters in tiring Journeys, hard, labouring and unmerciful Treatment, Heats, Colds, &c. which wear out and destroy so many of those useful and generous Creatures before the time: Such as have been better us'd, and some, whom their more gentle and good-natur'd Patrons have in recompence of their long and faithful service, dismiss'd, and sent to Pasture for the rest of their Lives (as the Grand Seignior does his Meccha-Camel) have been known to live forty, fifty, nay (says [81]Aristotle,) no fewer than sixty five Years. When once Old Par came to change his simple, homely Diet, to that of the Court and Arundel-House, he quickly sunk and dropt away: For, as we have shew'd, the Stomack easily concocts plain, and familiar Food; but finds it an hard and difficult Task, to vanquish and overcome Meats of [82]different Substances: Whence we so often see temperate and abstemious Persons, of a Collegiate Diet, very healthy; Husbandsmen and laborious People, more robust, and longer liv'd than others of an uncertain extravagant Diet.

[83]——Nam variae res Ut noceant Homini, credas, memor illius escae, Quae simplex olim tibi sederit——

For different Meats do hurt; Remember how When to one Dish confin'd, thou healthier wast than now:

was Osellus's Memorandum in the Poet.

Not that variety (which God has certainly ordain'd to delight and assist our Appetite) is unnecessary, nor any thing more grateful, refreshing and proper for those especially who lead sedentary and studious Lives; Men of deep Thought, and such as are otherwise disturb'd with Secular Cares and Businesses, which hinders the Function of the Stomach and other Organs: whilst those who have their Minds free, use much Exercise, and are more active, create themselves a natural Appetite, which needs little or no Variety to quicken and content it.

And here might we attest the Patriarchal World, nay, and many Persons since; who living very temperately came not much short of the Post-Diluvians themselves, counting from Abraham to this Day; and some exceeding them, who liv'd in pure Air, a constant, tho' course and simple Diet; wholsome and uncompounded Drink; that never tasted Brandy or Exotic Spirits; but us'd moderate Exercise, and observ'd good Hours: For such a one a curious Missionary tells us of in Persia; who had attain'd the Age of four hundred Years, (a full Century beyond the famous Johannes de Temporibus) and was living Anno 1636, and so may be still for ought we know. But, to our Sallet.

Certain it is, Almighty God ordaining [84]Herbs and Fruit for the Food of Men, speaks not a Word concerning Flesh for two thousand Years. And when after, by the Mosaic Constitution, there were Distinctions and Prohibitions about the legal Uncleanness of Animals; Plants, of what kind soever, were left free and indifferent for every one to choose what best he lik'd. And what if it was held undecent and unbecoming the Excellency of Man's Nature, before Sin entred, and grew enormously wicked, that any Creature should be put to Death and Pain for him who had such infinite store of the most delicious and nourishing Fruit to delight, and the Tree of Life to sustain him? Doubtless there was no need of it. Infants sought the Mother's Nipple as soon as born; and when grown, and able to feed themselves, run naturally to Fruit, and still will choose to eat it rather than Flesh and certainly might so persist to do, did not Custom prevail, even against the very Dictates of Nature: Nor, question I, but that what the Heathen [85]Poets recount of the Happiness of the Golden Age, sprung from some Tradition they had received of the Paradisian Fare, their innocent and healthful Lives in that delightful Garden. Let it suffice, that Adam, and his yet innocent Spouse, fed on Vegetables and other Hortulan Productions before the fatal Lapse; which, by the way, many Learned Men will hardly allow to have fallen out so soon as those imagine who scarcely grant them a single Day; nay, nor half a one, for their Continuance in the State of Original Perfection; whilst the sending him into the Garden; Instructions how he should keep and cultivate it; Edict, and Prohibition concerning the Sacramental Trees; the Imposition of [86]Names, so apposite to the Nature of such an Infinity of Living Creatures (requiring deep Inspection) the Formation of Eve, a meet Companion to relieve his Solitude; the Solemnity of their Marriage; the Dialogues and Success of the crafty Tempter, whom we cannot reasonably think made but one Assault: And that they should so quickly forget the Injunction of their Maker and Benefactor; break their Faith and Fast, and all other their Obligations in so few Moments. I say, all these Particulars consider'd; Can it be supposed they were so soon transacted as those do fancy, who take their Measure from the Summary Moses gives us, who did not write to gratifie Mens Curiosity, but to transmit what was necessary and sufficient for us to know.

This then premis'd (as I see no Reason why it should not) and that during all this Space they liv'd on Fruits and Sallets; 'tis little probable, that after their Transgression, and that they had forfeited their Dominion over the Creature (and were sentenc'd and exil'd to a Life of Sweat and Labour on a cursed and ungrateful Soil) the offended God should regale them with Pampering Flesh, or so much as suffer them to slay the more innocent Animal: Or, that if at any time they had Permission, it was for any thing save Skins to cloath them, or in way of Adoration, or Holocaust for Expiation, of which nothing of the Flesh was to be eaten. Nor did the Brutes themselves subsist by Prey (tho' pleas'd perhaps with Hunting, without destroying their Fellow Creatures) as may be presum'd from their long Seclusion of the most Carnivorous among them in the Ark.

Thus then for two thousand Years, the Universal Food was Herbs and Plants; which abundantly recompens'd the Want of Flesh and other luxurious Meats, which shortened their Lives so many hundred Years; the [87][Greek: makro-biote-a] of the Patriarchs, which was an Emblem of Eternity as it were (after the new Concession) beginning to dwindle to a little Span, a Nothing in Comparison.

On the other side, examine we the present Usages of several other Heathen Nations; particularly (bessides the aegyptian Priests of old) the Indian Bramins, Relicts of the ancient Gymnosophists to this Day, observing the Institutions of their Founder. Flesh, we know was banish'd the Platonic Tables, as well as from those of Pythagoras; (See [88]Porphyry and their Disciples) tho' on different Accounts. Among others of the Philosophers, from Xenocrates, Polemon, &c. we hear of many. The like we find in [89]Clement Alexand. [90]Eusebius names more. Zeno, Archinomus, Phraartes, Chiron, and others, whom Laertius reckons up. In short, so very many, especially of the Christian Profession, that some, even of the ancient [91]Fathers themselves, have almost thought that the Permission of eating Flesh to Noah and his Sons, was granted them no otherwise than Repudiation of Wives was to the Jews, namely, for the Hardness of their Hearts, and to satisfie a murmuring Generation that a little after loathed Manna it self, and Bread from Heaven. So difficult a thing it is to subdue an unruly Appetite; which notwithstanding [92]Seneca thinks not so hard a Task; where speaking of the Philosopher Sextius, and Socion's (abhorring Cruelty and Intemperance) he celebrates the Advantages of the Herby and Sallet Diet, as Physical, and Natural Advancers of Health and other Blessings; whilst Abstinence from Flesh deprives Men of nothing but what Lions, Vultures, Beasts and birds of Prey, blood and gorge themselves withal, The whole Epistle deserves the Reading, for the excellent Advice he gives on this and other Subjects; and how from many troublesome and slavish Impertinencies, grown into Habit and Custom (old as he was) he had Emancipated and freed himself: Be this apply'd to our present excessive Drinkers of Foreign and Exotic Liquors. And now

I am sufficiently sensible how far, and to how little purpose I am gone on this Topic: The Ply is long since taken, and our raw Sallet deckt in its best Trim, is never like to invite Men who once have tasted Flesh to quit and abdicate a Custom which has now so long obtain'd. Nor truly do I think Conscience at all concern'd in the Matter, upon any Account of Distinction of Pure and Impure; tho' seriously consider'd (as Sextius held) rationi magis congrua, as it regards the cruel Butcheries of so many harmless Creatures; some of which we put to merciless and needless Torment, to accommodat them for exquisite and uncommon Epicurism. There lies else no positive Prohibition; Discrimination of Meats being [93]Condemn'd as the Doctrine of Devils: Nor do Meats commend us to God. One eats quid vult (of every thing:) another Olera, and of Sallets only: But this is not my Business, further than to shew how possible it is by so many Instances and Examples, to live on wholsome Vegetables, both long and happily: For so

[94]The Golden Age, with this Provision blest, Such a Grand Sallet made, and was a Feast. The Demi-Gods with Bodies large and sound, Commended then the Product of the Ground. Fraud then, nor Force were known, nor filthy Lust, Which Over-heating and Intemp'rance nurst: Be their vile Names in Execration held, Who with foul Glutt'ny first the World defil'd: Parent of Vice, and all Diseases since, With ghastly Death sprung up alone from thence. Ah, from such reeking, bloody Tables fly, Which Death for our Destruction does supply. In Health, if Sallet-Herbs you can't endure; Sick, you'll desire them; or for Food, or Cure.

As to the other part of the Controversie, which concerns us, [Greek: aimatophagoi], and Occidental Blood-Eaters; some Grave and Learn'd Men of late seem to scruple the present Usage, whilst they see the Prohibition appearing, and to carry such a Face of Antiquity, [95]Scripture, [96]Councils, [97]Canons, [98]Fathers; Imperial Constitutions, and Universal Practice, unless it be among us of these Tracts of Europe, whither, with other Barbarities, that of eating the Blood and Animal Life of Creatures first was brought; and by our Mixtures with the Goths, Vandals, and other Spawn of Pagan Scythians; grown a Custom, and since which I am persuaded more Blood has been shed between Christians than there ever was before the Water of the Flood covered this Corner of the World: Not that I impute it only to our eating Blood; but sometimes wonder how it hap'ned that so strict, so solemn and famous a Sanction not upon a Ceremonial Account; but (as some affirm) a Moral and Perpetual from Noah, to whom the Concession of eating Flesh was granted, and that of Blood forbidden (nor to this Day once revok'd) and whilst there also seems to lie fairer Proofs than for most other Controversies agitated among Christians, should be so generally forgotten, and give place to so many other impertinent Disputes and Cavels about other superstitious Fopperies, which frequently end in Blood and cutting of Throats.

As to the Reason of this Prohibition, its favouring of Cruelty excepted, (and that by Galen, and other experienc'd Physicians, the eating Blood is condemn'd as unwholsome, causing Indigestion and Obstructions) if a positive Command of Almighty God were not enough, it seems sufficiently intimated; because Blood was the Vehicle of the Life and Animal Soul of the Creature: For what other mysterious Cause, as haply its being always dedicated to Expiatory Sacrifices, &c. it is not for us to enquire. 'Tis said, that Justin Martyr being asked, why the Christians of his time were permitted the eating Flesh and not the Blood? readily answer'd, That God might distinguish them from Beasts, which eat them both together. 'Tis likewise urg'd, that by the Apostolical Synod (when the rest of the Jewish Ceremonies and Types were abolish'd) this Prohibition was mention'd as a thing [99]necessary, and rank'd with Idolatry, which was not to be local or temporary; but universally injoyn'd to converted Strangers and Proselytes, as well as Jews: Nor could the Scandal of neglecting to observe it, concern them alone, after so many Ages as it was and still is in continual Use; and those who transgress'd, so severely punish'd, as by an Imperial Law to be scourg'd to Blood and Bone: Indeed, so terrible was the Interdiction, that Idolatry excepted (which was also Moral and perpetual) nothing in Scripture seems to be more express. In the mean time, to relieve all other Scruples, it does not, they say, extend to that [Greek: akribeia] of those few diluted Drops of Extravasated Blood, which might happen to tinge the Juice and Gravy of the Flesh (which were indeed to strain at a Gnat) but to those who devour the Venal and Arterial Blood separately, and in Quantity, as a choice Ingredient of their luxurious Preparations and Apician Tables.

But this, and all the rest will, I fear, seem but Oleribus verba facere, and (as the Proverb goes) be Labour-in-vain to think of preaching down Hogs-Puddings, and usurp the Chair of Rabby-Busy: And therefore what is advanc'd in Countenance of the Antediluvian Diet, we leave to be ventilated by the Learned, and such as Curcellaeus, who has borrow'd of all the Ancient Fathers, from Tertullian, Hierom, S. Chrysostom, &c. to the later Doctors and Divines, Lyra, Tostatus, Dionysius Carthusianus, Pererius, amongst the Pontificians; of Peter Martyr, Zanchy, Aretius, Jac. Capellus, Hiddiger, Cocceius, Bochartus, &c. amongst the Protestants; and instar omnium, by Salmasius, Grotius, Vossius, Blundel: In a Word, by the Learn'd of both Persuasions, favourable enough to these Opinions, Cajetan and Calvin only excepted, who hold, that as to Abstinence from Flesh, there was no positive Command or Imposition concerning it; but that the Use of Herbs and Fruit was recommended rather for Temperance sake, and the Prolongation of Life: Upon which score I am inclin'd to believe that the ancient [Greek: theraoentai], and other devout and contemplative Sects, distinguish'd themselves; whose Course of Life we have at large describ'd in [100]Philo (who liv'd and taught much in Gardens) with others of the Abstemious Christians; among whom, Clemens brings in St. Mark the Evangelist himself, James our Lord's Brother. St. John, &c. and with several of the devout Sex, the famous Diaconesse Olympias, mention'd by Palladius (not to name the rest) who abstaining from Flesh, betook themselves to Herbs and Sallets upon the Account of Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying it; and concerning which the incomparable Grotius declares ingenuously his Opinion to be far from censuring, not only those who forbear the eating Flesh and Blood, Experimenti Causa, and for Discipline sake; but such as forbear ex Opinione, and (because it has been the ancient Custom) provided they blam'd none who freely us'd their Liberty; and I think he's in the right.

But leaving this Controversie (ne nimium extra oleas) it has often been objected, that Fruit, and Plants, and all other things, may since the Beginning, and as the World grows older, have universally become Effoete, impair'd and diverted of those Nutritious and transcendent Vertues they were at first endow'd withal: But as this is begging the Question, and to which we have already spoken; so all are not agreed that there is any, the least [101]Decay in Nature, where equal Industry and Skill's apply'd. 'Tis true indeed, that the Ordo Foliatorum, Feuillantines (a late Order of Ascetic Nuns) amongst other Mortifications, made Trial upon the Leaves of Plants alone, to which they would needs confine themselves; but were not able to go through that thin and meagre Diet: But then it would be enquir'd whether they had not first, and from their very Childhood, been fed and brought up with Flesh, and better Sustenance till they enter'd the Cloyster; and what the Vegetables and the Preparation of them were allow'd by their Institution? Wherefore this is nothing to our Modern Use of Sallets, or its Disparagement. In the mean time, that we still think it not only possible, but likely, and with no great Art or Charge (taking Roots and Fruit into the Basket) substantially to maintain Mens Lives in Health and Vigour: For to this, and less than this, we have the Suffrage of the great [102]Hippocrates himself; who thinks, ab initio etiam hominum (as well as other Animals) tali victu usum esse, and needed no other Food. Nor is it an inconsiderable Speculation, That since all Flesh is Grass (not in a Figurative, but Natural and Real Sense) Man himself, who lives on Flesh, and I think upon no Earthly Animal whatsoever, but such as feed on Grass, is nourish'd with them still; and so becoming an Incarnate Herb, and Innocent Canibal, may truly be said to devour himself.

We have said nothing of the Lotophagi, and such as (like St. John the Baptist, and other religious Ascetics) were Feeders on the Summities and Tops of Plants: But as divers of those, and others we have mention'd, were much in times of Streights, Persecutions, and other Circumstances, which did not in the least make it a Pretence, exempting them from Labour, and other Humane Offices, by ensnaring Obligations and vows (never to be useful to the Publick, in whatever Exigency) so I cannot but take Notice of what a Learned Critic speaking of Mens neglecting plain and Essential Duties, under Colour of exercising themselves in a more sublime Course of Piety, and being Righteous above what is commanded (as those who seclude themselves in Monasteries) that they manifestly discover excessive Pride, Hatred of their Neighbour, Impatience of Injuries; to which add, Melancholy Plots and Machinations; and that he must be either stupid, or infected with the same Vice himself, who admires this [Greek: etheloperiosothreskeia], or thinks they were for that Cause the more pleasing to God. This being so, what may we then think of such Armies of Hermits, Monks and Friers, who pretending to justifie a mistaken Zeal and meritorious Abstinence; not only by a peculiar Diet and Distinction of Meats (which God without Distinction has made the moderate Use of common and [103]indifferent amongst Christians) but by other sordid Usages, and unnecessary Hardships, wilfully prejudice their Health and Constitution? and through a singular manner of living, dark and Saturnine; whilst they would seem to abdicate and forsake the World (in Imitation, as they pretend, of the Ancient Eremites) take care to settle, and build their warm and stately Nests in the most Populous Cities, and Places of Resort; ambitious doubtless of the Peoples Veneration and Opinion of an extraordinary Sanclity; and therefore flying the Desarts, where there is indeed no use of them; and flocking to the Towns and Cities where there is less, indeed none at all; and therefore no Marvel that the Emperour Valentinian banished them the Cities, and Constantine Copronymus finding them seditious, oblig'd them to marry, to leave their Cells, and live as did others. For of these, some there are who seldom speak, and therefore edifie none; sleep little, and lie hard, are clad nastily, and eat meanly (and oftentimes that which is unwholsom) and therefore benefit none; Not because they might not, both for their own, and the Good of others, and the Publick; but because they will not; Custom, and a prodigious [104]Sloth accompanying it; which renders it so far from Penance, and the Mortification pretended, that they know not how to live, or spend their Time otherwise. This, as I have often consider'd, so was I glad to find it justly perstring'd, and taken notice of by a [105]Learned Person, amongst others of his useful Remarks abroad.

'These, says he, willingly renouncing the innocent Comforts of Life, plainly shew it to proceed more from a chagrin and morose Humour, than from any true and serious Principle of sound Religion; which teaches Men to be useful in their Generations, sociable and communicative, unaffected, and by no means singular and fantastic in Garb and Habit, as are these (forsooth) Fathers (as they affect to be call'd) spending their Days in idle and fruitless Forms, and tedious Repetitions; and thereby thinking to merit the Reward of those Ancient, and truly pious Solitaries, who, God knows, were driven from their Countries and Repose, by the Incursions of barbarous Nations (whilst these have no such Cause) and compell'd to Austerities, not of their own chusing and making, but the publick Calamity; and to labour with their Hands for their own, and others necessary Support, as well as with with their Prayers and holy Lives, Examples to all the World: And some of these indeed (bessides the Solitaries of the Thebaid, who wrought for abundance of poor Christians, sick, and in Captivity) I might bring in, as such who deserv'd to have their Names preserv'd; not for their rigorous Fare, and uncouth Disguises; but for teaching that the Grace of Temperance and other Vertues, consisted in a cheerful, innocent, and profitable Conversation.

And now to recapitulate what other Prerogatives the Hortulan Provision has been celebrated for, bessides its Antiquity, Health and Longaevity of the Antediluvians; that Temperance, Frugality, Leisure, Ease, and innumerable other Vertues and Advantages, which accompany it, are no less attributable to it. Let us hear our excellent Botanist [106]Mr. Ray.

'The Use of Plants (says he) is all our Life long of that universal Importance and Concern, that we can neither live nor subsist in any Plenty with Decency, or Conveniency or be said to live indeed at all without them: whatsoever Food is necessary to sustain us, whatsoever contributes to delight and refresh us, are supply'd and brought forth out of that plentiful and abundant store: and ah, how much more innocent, sweet and healthful, is a Table cover'd with these, than with all the reeking Flesh of butcher'd and slaughter'd Animals: Certainly Man by Nature was never made to be a Carnivorous Creature; nor is he arm'd at all for Prey and Rapin, with gag'd and pointed Teeth and crooked Claws, sharp'ned to rend and tear: But with gentle Hands to gather Fruit and Vegetables, and with Teeth to chew and eat them: Nor do we so much as read the Use of Flesh for Food, was at all permitted him, till after the Universal Deluge, &c.

To this might we add that transporting Consideration, becoming both our Veneration and Admiration of the infinitely wise and glorious Author of Nature, who has given to Plants such astonishing Properties; such fiery Heat in some to warm and cherish, such Coolness in others to temper and refresh, such pinguid Juice to nourish and feed the Body, such quickening Acids to compel the Appetite, and grateful vehicles to court the Obedience of the Palate, such Vigour to renew and support our natural Strength, such ravishing Flavour and Perfumes to recreate and delight us: In short, such spirituous and active Force to animate and revive every Faculty and Part, to all the kinds of Human, and, I had almost said Heavenly Capacity too. What shall we add more? Our Gardens present us with them all; and whilst the Shambles are cover'd with Gore and Stench, our Sallets scape the Insults of the Summer Fly, purifies and warms the Blood against Winter Rage: Nor wants there Variety in more abundance, than any of the former Ages could shew.

Survey we their Bills of Fare, and Numbers of Courses serv'd up by Athenaeus, drest with all the Garnish of Nicander and other Grecian Wits: What has the Roman Grand Sallet worth the naming? Parat Convivium, The Guests are nam'd indeed, and we are told,

——[107]Varias, quas habet hortus opes? How richly the Garden's stor'd:

In quibus est Luctuca sedens, & tonsile porrum, Nee deest ructatrix Mentha, nec herba salax, &c.

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A Goodly Sallet!

Lettuce, Leeks, Mint, Rocket, Colewort-Tops, with Oyl and Eggs, and such an Hotch-Pot following (as the Cook in Plautus would deservedly laugh at). But how infinitely out-done in this Age of ours, by the Variety of so many rare Edules unknown to the Ancients, that there's no room for the Comparison. And, for Magnificence, let the Sallet drest by the Lady for an Entertainment made by Jacobus Catsius (describ'd by the Poet [108]Barlaeus) shew; not at all yet out-doing what we every Day almost find at our Lord Mayor's Table, and other great Persons, Lovers of the Gardens; that sort of elegant Cookery being capable of such wonderful Variety, tho' not altogether wanting of old, if that be true which is related to us of [109]Nicomedes a certain King of Bithynia, whose Cook made him a Pilchard (a Fish he exceedingly long'd for) of a well dissembl'd Turnip, carv'd in its Shape, and drest with Oyl, Salt, and Pepper, that so deceiv'd, and yet pleased the Prince, that he commended it for the best Fish he had ever eaten. Nor does all this exceed what every industrious Gardiner may innocently enjoy, as well as the greatest Potentate on Earth.

Vitellius his Table, to which every Day All Courtiers did a constant Tribute pay, Could nothing more delicious afford Than Nature's Liberality. Help'd with a little Art and Industry, Allows the meanest Gard'ners Board, The Wanton Taste no Fish or Fowl can chuse, For which the Grape or Melon she would lose. Tho' all th' Inhabitants of Sea and Air. Be lifted in the Glutton's Bill of Fare; Yet still the Sallet, and the Fruit we see Plac'd the third Story high in all her Luxury.

So the Sweet [110]Poet, whom I can never part with for his Love to this delicious Toil, and the Honour he has done me.

Verily, the infinite Plenty and Abundance, with which the benign and bountiful Author of Nature has stor'd the whole Terrestrial World, more with Plants and Vegetables than with any other Provision whatsoever; and the Variety not only equal, but by far exceeding the Pleasure and Delight of Taste (above all the Art of the Kitchen, than ever [111]Apicius knew) seems loudly to call, and kindly invite all her living Inhabitants (none excepted) who are of gentle Nature, and most useful, to the same Hospitable and Common-Board, which first she furnish'd with Plants and Fruit, as to their natural and genuine Pasture; nay, and of the most wild, and savage too ab origine: As in Paradise, where, as the Evangelical [112]Prophet adumbrating the future Glory of the Catholick Church, (of which that happy Garden was the Antitype) the Wolf and the Lamb, the angry and furious Lion, should eat Grass and Herbs together with the Ox. But after all, latet anguis in herba, there's a Snake in the Grass; Luxury, and Excess in our most innocent Fruitions. There was a time indeed when the Garden furnish'd Entertainments for the most Renown'd Heroes, virtuous and excellent Persons; till the Blood-thirsty and Ambitious, over-running the Nations, and by Murders and Rapine rifl'd the World, to transplant its Luxury to its new Mistriss, Rome. Those whom heretofore [113]two Acres of Land would have satisfied, and plentifully maintain'd; had afterwards their very Kitchens almost as large as their first Territories: Nor was that enough: Entire [114]Forests and Parks, Warrens and Fish-Ponds, and ample Lakes to furnish their Tables, so as Men could not live by one another without Oppression: Nay, and to shew how the best, and most innocent things may be perverted; they chang'd those frugal and inemptas Dapes of their Ancestors, to that Height and Profusion; that we read of [115]Edicts and Sumptuary Laws, enacted to restrain even the Pride and Excess of Sallets. But so it was not when the Pease-Field spread a Table for the Conquerors of the World, and their Grounds were cultivated Vomere laureato, & triumphali aratore: The greatest Princes took the Spade and the Plough-Staff in the same Hand they held the Sceptre; and the Noblest [116]Families thought it no Dishonour, to derive their Names from Plants and Sallet-Herbs; They arriv'd, I say to that Pitch of ingrossing all that was but green, and could be vary'd by the Cook (Heu quam prodiga ventris!) that, as Pliny tells us (non sine pudore, not without blushing) a poor Man could hardly find a Thistle to dress for his Supper; or what his hungry [117]Ass would not touch, for fear of pricking his Lips.

Verily the Luxury of the East ruin'd the greatest Monarchies; first, the Persian, then the Grecian, and afterwards Rome her self: By what Steps, see elegantly describ'd in Old [118]Gratius the Faliscian, deploring his own Age compar'd with the former:

O quantum, & quoties decoris frustrata paterni! At qualis nostris, quam simplex mensa Camillis! Qui tibi cultus erat post tot, serrane, triumphos? Ergo illi ex habitu, virtutisq; indole priscae, Imposuere orbi Romam caput:——

Neighb'ring Excesses being made thine own, How art thou fall'n from thine old Renown! But our Camilli did but plainly fare, No Port did oft triumphant Serran bear: Therefore such Hardship, and their Heart so great Gave Rome to be the World's Imperial Seat.

But as these were the Sensual and Voluptuous, who abus'd their Plenty, spent their Fortunes and shortned their Lives by their Debauches; so never did they taste the Delicaces, and true Satisfaction of a sober Repast, and the infinite Conveniences of what a well-stor'd Garden affords; so elegantly describ'd by the [119]Naturalist, as costing neither Fuel nor Fire to boil, Pains or time to gather and prepare, Res expedita & parata semper: All was so near at hand, readily drest, and of so easie Digestion; as neither to offend the Brain, or dull the Senses; and in the greatest Dearth of Corn, a little Bread suffic'd. In all Events,

Panis ematur, Olus, Vini Sextarius adde Queis humana sibi doleat natura negatis.

Bread, Wine and wholsome Sallets you may buy, What Nature adds besides is Luxury.

They could then make an honest Meal, and dine upon a Sallet without so much as a Grain, of Exotic Spice; And the Potagere was in such Reputation, that she who neglected her Kitchen-Garden (for that was still the Good-Woman's Province) was never reputed a tolerable Hus-wife: Si vespertinus subito te oppresserit hospes, she was never surpriz'd, had all (as we said) at hand, and could in a Trice set forth an handsome Sallet: And if this was Happiness, Convictus facilis sine arte mensa (as the Poet reckons) it was here in Perfection. In a Word, so universal was the Sallet, that the [120]Un-bloody Shambles (as Pliny calls them) yielded the [121]Roman State a more considerable Custom (when there was little more than honest Cabbage and Worts) than almost any thing bessides brought to Market.

They spent not then so much precious time as afterwards they did, gorging themselves with Flesh and Fish, so as hardly able to rise, without reeking and reeling from Table.

[122]——Vides ut pallidus omnis Coena desurgat dubia? quin corpus onustum Hesternis vitiis, animum quoque praegravat una, Atque affigit humo divinae particulam aurae.

See but how pale they look, how wretchedly, With Yesterday's Surcharge disturb'd they be! Nor Body only suff'ring, but the Mind, That nobler Part, dull'd and depress'd we find. Drowsie and unapt for Business, and other nobler Parts of Life.

Time was before Men in those golden Days: Their Spirits were brisk and lively.

——Ubi dicto citius curata sopori Membra dedit, Vegetus praescripta ad munera surgit.

With shorter, but much sweeter Sleep content, Vigorous and fresh, about their Business went.

And Men had their Wits about them; their Appetites were natural, their Sleep molli sub arbore, sound, sweet, and kindly: That excellent Emperour Tacitus being us'd to say of Lettuce, that he did somnum se mercari when he eat of them, and call'd it a sumptuous Feast, with a Sallet and a single Pullet, which was usually all the Flesh-Meat that sober Prince eat of; whilst Maximinus (a profess'd Enemy to Sallet) is reported to have scarce been satisfied, with sixty Pounds of Flesh, and Drink proportionable.

There was then also less expensive Grandure, but far more true State; when Consuls, great Statesmen (and such as atchiev'd the most renown'd Actions) sup'd in their Gardens; not under costly, gilded, and inlaid Roofs, but the spreading Platan; and drank of the Chrystal Brook, and by Temperance, and healthy Frugality, maintain'd the Glory of Sallets, Ah, quanta innocentiore victu! with what Content and Satisfaction! Nor, as we said, wanted there Variety; for so in the most blissful Place, and innocent State of Nature, See how the first Empress of the World Regal's her Celestial Guest:

[123]With sav'ry Fruit of Taste to please True Appetite, —— and brings Whatever Earth's all-bearing Mother yields ——Fruit of all kinds, in Coat Rough, or smooth-Rind, or bearded Husk, or Shell. Heaps with unsparing Hand: For Drink the Grape She crushes, inoffensive Moust, and Meaches From many a Berry, and from sweet Kernel prest, She temper'd dulcid Creams.——

Then for the Board.

——Rais'd of a grassy Turf The Table was, and Mossy Seats had round; And on the ample Meaths from Side to Side, All Autumn pil'd: Ah Innocence, Deserving Paradise!

Thus, the Hortulan Provision of the [124]Golden Age fitted all Places, Times and Persons; and when Man is restor'd to that State again, it will be as it was in the Beginning.

But now after all (and for Close of all) Let none yet imagine, that whilst we justifie our present Subject through all the Topics of Panegyric, we would in Favour of the Sallet, drest with all its Pomp and Advantage turn Mankind to Grass again; which were ungratefully to neglect the Bounty of Heaven, as well as his Health and Comfort: But by these Noble Instances and Examples, to reproach the Luxury of the present Age; and by shewing the infinite Blessing and Effects of Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying it; with how little Nature, and a [125]Civil Appetite may be happy, contented with moderate things, and within a little Compass, reserving the rest, to the nobler Parts of Life. And thus of old,

_Hoc erat in votis, modus agri non ita magnus, _&a._

He that was possess'd of a little Spot of Ground, and well=cultivated Garden, with other moderate Circumstances, had [126]Haeredium. All that a modest Man could well desire. Then,

[127]Happy the Man, who from Ambition freed, A little Garden, little Field does feed. The Field gives frugal Nature what's requird; The Garden what's luxuriously desir'd: The specious Evils of an anxious Life, He leaves to Fools to be their endless Strife.

O Fortunatos nimium bona si sua norint Horticulos!

FINIS

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APPENDIX

Tho' it was far from our first Intention to charge this small Volume and Discourse concerning Crude Sallets, with any of the following Receipts: Yet having since received them from an Experienc'd Housewife; and that they may possibly be useful to correct, preserve and improve our Acetaria, we have allow'd them Place as an Appendant Variety upon Occasion: Nor account we it the least Dishonour to our former Treatise, that we kindly entertain'd them; since (besides divers Learned Physicians, and such as have ex professo written de Re Cibaria) we have the Examples of many other [128]Noble and Illustrious Persons both among the Ancient and Modern.

1. Artichoak. Clear it of the Leaves and cut the Bottoms in pretty thin Slices or Quarters; then fry them in fresh Butter with some Parsley, till it is crisp, and the Slices tender; and so dish them with other fresh melted Butter.

How a Poiverade is made, and the Bottoms preserv'd all the Winter, See Acetaria. p. 5, 6.

Ashen-keys. See Pickle.

Asparagus. See Pickle.

Beets. Broom. Buds. See Pickle. Capers. /

Carrot. See Pudding.

Champignon. See Mushroom.

2. Chessnut. Roasted under the Embers, or dry fryed, till they shell, and quit their Husks, may be slit; the Juice of Orange squeezed on a Lump of hard Sugar dissolv'd; to which add some Claret Wine.

Collyflower. Cucumber. Elder flowers. See Pickle. Flowers. Gilly-flowers. /

Herbs. See Pudding and Tart.

Limon. See Pickle.

3. Mushroom. Chuse the small, firm and white Buttons, growing upon sweet Pasture Grounds, neither under, or about any Trees: strip off the upper Skin, and pare away all the black spungy Bottom part; then slice them in quarters, and cast them in Water a while to cleanse: Then Boil them in fresh Water, and a little sweet Butter; (some boil them a quarter of an hour first) and then taking them out, dry them in a Cloth, pressing out the Water, and whilst hot, add the Butter; and then boiling a full Hour (to exhaust the Malignity) shift them in another clean Water, with Butter, as before till they become sufficiently tender. Then being taken out, pour upon them as much strong Mutton (or other) Broth as will cover them, with six Spoonfuls of White-Wine, twelve Cloves, as many Pepper-Corns, four small young Onions, half an Handful of Persly bound up with two or three Spriggs of Thyme, an Anchovy, Oysters raw, or pickl'd; a little Salt, sweet Butter; and so let them stew. See Acetar. p. 26.

Another.

Prepared, and cleans'd as above, and cast into Fountain-Water, to preserve them from growing black; Boil them in fresh Water and Salt; and whilst on the Fire, cast in the Mushrooms, letting them boil till they become tender: Then stew them leisurely between two Dishes (the Water being drained from them) in a third Part of White-Wine and Butter, a small Bundle of sweet Herbs at discretion. To these add Broth as before, with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Anchovies (one is sufficient) Oysters, &c. a small Onion, with the green Stem chopt small; and lastly, some Mutton-Gravy, rubbing the Dish gently with a Clove of Garlick, or some Rocombo Seeds in its stead. Some beat the Yolk of a fresh Egg with Vinegar, and Butter, and a little Pepper.

In France some (more compendiously being peel'd and prepared) cast them into a Pipkin, where, with the Sweet Herbs, Spices, and an Onion they stew them in their own Juice, without any other Water or Liquor at all; and then taking out the Herbs and Onion, thicken it with a little Butter, and so eat them.

In Poiverade.

The large Mushrooms well cleansed, &c. being cut into quarters and strewed with Pepper and Salt, are broil'd on the Grid-iron, and eaten with fresh Butter.

In Powder.

Being fresh gathered, cleans'd, &c. and cut in Pieces, stew them in Water and Salt; and being taken forth, dry them with a Cloth: Then putting them into an Earth-Glazed Pot, set them into the Oven after the Bread is drawn: Repeat this till they are perfectly dry; and reserve them in Papers to crumble into what Sauce you please. For the rest, see Pickle.

4. Mustard. Procure the best and weightiest Seed: cast it into Water two or three times, till no more of the Husk arise: Then taking out the sound (which will sink to the Bottom) rub it very dry in warm course Cloths, shewing it also a little to the Fire in a Dish or Pan. Then stamp it as small as to pass through a fine Tiffany Sieve: Then slice some Horse-Radish and lay it to soak in strong Vinegar, with a small Lump of hard Sugar (which some leave out) to temper the Flower with, being drained from the Radish, and so pot it all in a Glaz'd Mug, with an Onion, and keep it well stop'd with a Cork upon a Bladder, which is the more cleanly: But this Receit is improv'd, if instead of Vinegar, Water only, or the Broth of powder'd Beef be made use of. And to some of this Mustard adding Verjuice, Sugar, Claret-Wine, and Juice of Limon, you have an excellent Sauce to any sort of Flesh or Fish.