But then China has ages of experience, both in organizing and in rebelling, back of to-day. Establishing a Republic, however, is something new; the Chinese have never before tried their hand at that, but if they will only bring into play now all their undoubted power of organization, of resource, of moderation, they will certainly make a success of their new experiment in government. Given time, and they will do it. Perhaps my view of China's future is rose-coloured. But the thing seen and felt is of tremendous force, and the impression of power that the Chinese made upon me was rather overwhelming. And, anyway, a friendly opinion may be pardoned in one who, during months of solitary travel in China, never met anything but courtesy and consideration from all, whether coolie on the road, villager or innkeeper, official or priest.

THE END



INDEX

Abdur Rahman, Amir of Afghanistan, quoted, 288.

Agriculture, U. S. Department of, 207.

Amban, the, 253.

American Baptist Mission, 81, 85, 158, 183.

American engineers, surveying in Yunnan, 29.

American Legation, the, at Peking, 232, 237.

A-Mi-chou, 21, 22.

Amur River, 251.

Annamese, in Haiphong, appearance and dress of, 12, 13; and the Red River R.R., 15.

Annamese police, 7, 8.

Annamese Tirailleurs, 18, 19.

Anning River, valley of, the shortest trade-route between Szechuan and Indo-China, 71; 78, 89.

Arnold Arboretum, 66.

Assam hills, life on tea-plantations of, 17, 18.

Baber, Colborne, in Chien Ch'ang, 74; cited, 90, 106, 171, 181, 182, 191, 204.

Baikal, Lake, 236.

Bailey, Captain, English officer at Tachienlu, 126 ff.; his later explorations, 127; defends Tibetans, 132; 139, 175.

Barrow, riding in a, 169.

Batang, 124, 126, 128, 131, 160.

Bayard, Fort, 7, 8.

Beggars, absence of, in West China, 46.

Bishop, Mrs. Bird, 216.

Black Rock Rapid, 216, 217.

Bogda Ola (Holy Mountain), 274, 282.

Bogdo, the Living Buddha, status of, 277; superstitions concerning, 278; a second-rate god, 278; his motor-cars, 279. And see Gigin, the.

Bonze, the, his Buddhism, 282.

Boxer rising (1900), 28, 225, 233.

Brick tea, transportation of, 105, 106; how prepared, 159, 160.

Bridges in Yunnan, 61.

British American Tobacco Co., 67, 183, 235, 242.

Brooke, Lieutenant, murder of, by Lolos, 75.

Buddha, colossal figure of, at Chia-ting, 180, 181, 182, 200, 201; reigns supreme on Omei, 189; his tooth at Wan-nien Ssu, 191.

Buddha, the Living, 253, 277. And see Bogdo and Gigin.

"Buddha's Glory," 189.

Buddhism, and lamaism, 138; many forms of, 282; lamaism a "black travesty" of, 282; 317.

Buggy, an American, in Mongolia, 257, 264.

Burma, Upper, 3.

Burmese, the, 12.

Caindu (Chien Ch'ang), 74.

Calcutta, 112.

Camel Road, Kalgan to Urga, 245 ff.

Camels, in Mongolia, 263.

Cameras, feeling of Chinese toward, 156, 157.

Canadian Methodist Mission, 183.

Canton, House of the Dead at, 87; 24, 29, 222.

Cart Road, Kalgan to Urga, 244.

Catty, the, 33.

Cave-dwellings, 204.

Chair-bearers, their traditional calls, 149, 150 and n.

Chala, King of, his summer palace, 133, 134-136; his troubles, 135; 125.

Chang-ho-pa, 148-150.

Changsha, outbreak at, 226, 227.

Chang-te-ho, 224, 227.

Chang-Tien-You, railway engineer, 234.

Chao Erh Feng, death of, 125.

Chen River, 123.

Chen Chia Ch'ang, theatrical performance at, 185.

Chengtu, missionaries from, 133; under the "Emperor of the West," 171, 172; the modern city, 172 ff.; its fine silks and embroidery, 172, 173; its shops, 173, 175; British Consul-General at, 173; European community of, 173, 174; missionaries at, 174; Tartar population of, 174; the Manchu quarter, 174, 175; one of the most advanced cities of China, 175; police of, 176; French Consul-General at, 176; university of, and its students, 176, 177; railway question and the revolution at, 177; rivalry between Chung-king and, 209; 24, 42, 105, 198, 203, 226.

Chengtu, plain of, 167 ff.; its people, 167; its bad roads, 167.

Cheng-kiang, 163.

Cheo, Mr., 211.

Che-pei, 56.

Cheung-chou, Richthofen quoted concerning, 165, 166, 167.

Chiang-yi, 65.

Chia-ting, seat of white-wax industry, 73; the "rose-red city," 180 ff.; the flood of 1786, 181, 182; its insalubrious climate, 183; Protestant missions at, 183; warfare over cigarette-smoking at, 183; coolie hongs in, 183; the first city in Szechuan to declare for the Republic, 201; 161, 178, 179, 203, 204.

Chia-ting plain, beauty of, 180; subject to floods, 181; 184.

Chien-Ch'ang, district of, diversity of crops in, 71, 72; poppy banished from, 72, 94; white-wax industry of, 72, 73; almost unknown to Western world until lately, 73, 74; dangers of travelling in, due to neighbourhood of Lolos, 74, 75; recent steps of government to ensure safety in, 77.

Chien-Ch'ang valley, 33, 42.

Chien-Men, the (Peking), 230.

Chihli, province of, 227, 316.

Children in the East, how "brought up," 284.

Chin Ch'uan, region of, almost unknown to Europeans, 119.

Chin Ch'uan River, 78, 118.

Chin Tien (Golden Temple), 32.

Chin Tien Monastery, on summit of Omei Shan, 193-199.

China, and Tibet, meet in Tachienlu, 123; western boundary of, 124; revolution in, effect of, on relations between China and Tibet, uncertain, 125; grouping of trees in, 154; status of missionaries in, 158, 159; fruit and vegetables in, 206; and Mongolia, meet at Kalgan, 235; hold of, on North Mongolia, insecure, 285; is she in decay? 317, 318; impression produced by, 318, 319; her future, 321. And see Chinese and Chinese Government.

China, West. See West China.

China Inland Mission, 126, 216.

Chinese, the, characteristics of, 42, 43; their footwear, 44; of Yunnan and Szechuan, physical characteristics of, 51; dote on children, 56; climatic susceptibilities of, 58; and their dead, 87, 88; spend freely for food, 108; how sacred places are used by, 113; their lack of nerves, how illustrated, 120; in Tachienlu, 124, 131; military achievements of, 125, 126; good manners of, 129; their feeling toward the camera, 156, 157; ordinarily peaceable, 176; their fondness for theatrical performances, 185; friendly relations of Europeans and, in Chung-king, 209; their dramatic ways, 230; their interference in Mongolia, 253; unwelcome aliens there, 276; how like they are to us! 309 ff.; their self-reliance, 314; found all over the East, 314; slight outward variations in, in different parts of the Empire, 316; a vast majority of, have a common tongue, 317. And see Coolies.

Chinese city, the, in Peking, 230.

Chinese funeral, a, 142.

Chinese Government, projects of railways in Yunnan, 29; said to encourage lamaism in Mongolia, 282.

Chinese inns. See Inns.

Chinese laborers, on the Red River R.R., 15.

Chinese mob, the 176.

Chinese revolution. See Revolution.

Chinese temples. See Temples, Chinese.

Chinese women. See Women, Chinese.

Ch'ing Ch'i, 105.

Chit (letter of recommendation), the, 211, 212.

"Chou," meaning of, in place-names, 31n.

Christians, Chinese, in Hui-li-chou, 70; superiority of, to their fellows, 128, 129.

"Chuman" pagodas, of Szechuan, 204.

Chu-ma-tien, 224.

Ch'un, Prince, Regent, 231.

Chung-king, the Chicago of West China, 207-213; a treaty port, 208; no limit to its development, 208; missionaries in, 208; foreign community in, 208, 209; friendliness of Europeans and Chinese in, 209; rivalry between Chengtu and, 209; Merchant class of, 209, 210; cosmopolitan club at, 210, 211.

Cigarettes, 67, 183.

Cloud Mountains, the, 64, 65.

Cloudy Sun, City of the, 214.

Coffins, Chinese, 93, 94.

Colborne Baber. See Baber.

Colonial expansion, sought by Doumer, 9.

Confucius, 317.

Constitution of the U. S., lecture on at Chung-king Men's Club, 210.

Cooking, in Yunnan, 58.

Coolies, for overland journey, importance of, 33; contract for, 35, 36; their wages, 36; their character and dress, 43; their cleanliness, 48; long journeys often undertaken by, 212, 213; 203, 204, 205. See Fu t'ou and Hong.

Coolies of the author's caravan (hired at Yunnan-fu), 51, 52, 56, 57, 59, 65, 67, 79, 80, 83, 84; (hired at Ning-yuean-fu), 85, 96, 97, 103, 107, 108, 115, 121, 129, 130, 141, 143, 144, 148, 156, 162, 169, 170; their thoughtfulness and good-will, 149; dismissed at Chengtu, 178; (hired at Chia-ting), 183, 185.

"Crooked sterns," 214.

Cua-Cam River, 11.

Customs regulations, tend to check development of trade in Tonking, 15.

"Daisy," 31.

Dalai Lama, the, 277, 278.

Davidson, Warburton, 209, 210.

De Mailla, his History of China, 171.

Dead, the, kept unburied in China, 87.

Didier, M., 224.

Dogs, in Mongolia, 259.

Dong Dang, 10.

Doumer, M., Governor General of Indo-China, his energetic forward policy, 9-11; and the exposition of 1902, 13.

Dragon Festival, 176.

East, characteristics common to, different races of, 42, 43.

Eliot, Sir Charles, quoted, 28.

Emperor of Heaven, Mountain of the, 214.

"Emperor of the West," the, at Chengtu, 171, 172.

Erh-tsun, 53, 54.

Escort of soldiers, 38-40; why urged upon travellers, 38; vagaries of, 41, 121, 122; change of, 55; in Szechuan, 77, 78, 98.

Europeans, and native women, 17, 18; and Chinese, in Chung-king, 209.

Exchange, varying rate of, 97.

Fan t'an, played by coolies, 59.

Fei Yueeh Ling, 111.

Ferry, Jules, "l'homme de Tonking," 9.

Flowers, profusion of, in mountains of Yunnan and Szechuan, 62, 65, 66; in the Ta Tu valley, 144, 145; north of Urga, 292.

Foo-chou, 214.

Food, method of cooking in Yunnan, 58, 59; some details concerning, 108, 109-111.

Forbidden City, the, in Peking, 230.

Foreign Legion, French, 18, 19.

France in China, 18 ff.; 224, 225.

French, race-prejudice among the, 18; in Yunnan, 29.

French consulates in Yunnan, like fortified outposts, 29.

French troops in Indo-China, familiar with vernacular, 20.

French sisters, 141, 142.

Friends' Institute, club at Chung-king, visit to, 210, 211; a new departure in mission work, 211.

Friends' Mission, the, at Chung-king, 209, 210, 213.

Fruit-growing in China, 206, 207.

"Fu," meaning of, in place-names, 31n.

Fu River, the Min sometimes so-called, 203.

Fulin, 42, 89, 102, 103.

Fu-ming-hsien, 55, 56.

Fu t'ou (head coolie), and "the squeeze," 96, 97; an opium-smoker, 107, 108; 35, 36, 48, 85, 130, 140, 151, 164, 165.

Gardens, in Mongolia, 260.

Genghis Khan, 74, 281, 282.

Gigin, the (the Living Buddha), Urga the home of, 276, 277. And see Bogdo.

Glass, rarely seen in West China, 40.

Glorious Dragon Rapid, 214.

Gobi Desert, crossing the, 256 ff.; the outfit, 256, 257; an American buggy in, 257; the party, 257, 258; fine weather in, 258, 259; gardens in, 260; disadvantages of bathing while crossing, 262; wild life in, 262, 263; vegetation in, 264; no houses in, 264, 265; 235, 251, 252, 304.

Goddess of Mercy. See Kuan Yin.

Goddess of Mercy Rapid, 214.

Goitre, in Southern Szechuan, 68.

Golden Sand, River of, the Yangtse so called, 64.

Golden Stream, the, 118.

Golden Temple, the, 32.

Goosetail Rock, 217.

Gordon, Charles G. ("Chinese"), 229.

Grape-nuts, in China, 240, 241.

Great Cold Mountains, the (Lololand), 75.

Great Encampment, the. See Ta Huren.

Great Snow Mountains, 117.

Great River, the. See Yangtse.

Great Wall of China, the, at Nankow, 234; 246, 285, 304.

Gurkhas of Nepal, beaten by Chinese, 126.

Hainan, island of, 11.

Haiphong, difficult approach to, 11; customs officials at, 11; at police headquarters in, 12; described, 12, 13; 3, 4, 5, 10.

Haitang, 95, 96.

Hakka, 142.

Han River, and Yangtse, three cities at junction of, 222.

Han Yuean Kai, 104, 105.

Han Hai. See Gobi Desert.

Hankow, the Chicago of East China, 207; and its sister cities, 222; the trading centre of the three, 222; the revolution at, 222; preparing for journey to Peking at, 223, 224; 38, 219, 227.

Hanoi, capital of Tonking, 10; one of the finest cities in the Far East, 13.

Hanyang, rival of Bombay in manufactures, 222. See Hankow.

Heavenly Mountains. See T'ien-Shan.

Hei Shi Tan, 216, 217.

Himis lamassery, 124.

Hoang River, bridge across, 228; contrast between, and Yangtse, 228.

Hoi-hou, 11, 29.

Ho-k'ou, 10, 18, 19, 20, 66, 67.

Honan, province of, 227.

Hong (guild), coolie, 33, 35, 36.

Hong Kong, where East and West meet, 4; essentials of outfit procurable cheap at, 4, 5; 240.

Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank, 37.

Horse thieves, warning against, 269.

Horses, in Mongolia, 263.

Hosie, Sir Alexander, 93, 94, 119.

Hou Wei Teh, 243.

Hsi-Liang, and the opium trade of Yunnan, 25.

Hsiao Hsiang Ling, 91.

"Hsien," meaning of, in place-names, 31n.

Hua-lin-ping, 112, 114, 161.

Huc, Abbe, quoted, 249, 250, 279, 280.

Hui-li-chou, European women rare visitors to, 69; native Christians in, 70; 67, 68.

Humphreys, Dr., missionary, 81.

Hupeh, province of, 38, 218, 227.

Hupeh money, 37, 38.

Ichang, from Chung-king to, by river, 213 ff.; a busy place, and why, 221; its location, 221, 222; 177, 226.

Impedimenta, advice as to, 4-6; all essentials procurable at Hong Kong, 4.

Imperial City, the, in Peking, 230.

Imperial Post-Office, efficiency of, 127, 128.

India, 310.

Indo-China, French rule in, 8, 9; under Doumer, 9, 10; little outward difference between men and women of, 19.

Inns, in villages, 47; in towns, 47, 48; plenty of hot water the one luxury of, 48; foul-smelling, 48; in Mongolia, 248.

Intemperance, absence of, in East, simplifies travel there, 84.

Interpreter, the, a Kiangsi man, 4, 5; his democratic instincts, 203; dismissed at Hankow, 224; 34, 77, 78, 79, 86, 96, 97, 99, 100, 108, 121, 133, 140, 151, 152, 156, 178.

Iro River, travelling on, 305, 306.

Irrawaddy River, 71.

Ivan, tarantass driver, 292, 294, 297, 298, 299.

Jack (terrier), 6, 11, 12, 32, 33, 34, 40, 45, 46, 60, 61, 95, 103, 104, 108, 127, 140, 143, 146, 147, 149, 151, 153, 166, 170, 178, 192, 205, 224, 229, 239, 259, 264, 265, 274, 275, 295, 297, 298, 307.

Jam, in praise of, 240.

Japan, and the Manchurian railway, 246.

Japanese, at Chengtu, 175.

Jardine, Mattheson & Co., 225.

Jee-ka, 56.

Kalgan, China and Mongolia meet at, 235; main roads from, to Urga, 244, 245; an outpost of Russia, 246; 233, 238, 239, 241, 242, 243, 252, 257, 266, 273, 281.

Kalgan-Peking R. R., the first railway constructed by Chinese, 234.

Kang (furnace), 248.

Kang Hi, 116.

Kerosene, white wax superseded by, for lighting, 73.

Kiakhta, "very western," 303, 304; its great commercial past, 304; 289.

Kinsha Kiang. See Yangtse River.

Ku Niang (author's title), 140.

Kuan Yin (Goddess of Mercy), temple to, 113.

Kublai Khan, 49, 74.

Kung-tan, 214.

Kwang-chou-wan, 7, 9; bay of, 7.

Kwangtung, province of, 51, 105, 316.

Kwei-chou, 55.

Kwei-fu, the "trackers' Paradise," 216; change in attitude toward foreigners at, 216.

Kweilu, the, river-steamer, 221.

Ladakhis, the, effect of lamaism on, 282; 131, 146.

Lamaism, in Tachienlu, 124; aspect and effects of, 138; strength of, in Mongolia, 279, 280; said to be encouraged by Chinese Government, 281; its effect on the people, 281, 282; a "black travesty" of Buddhism, 282.

Lamas, ferocity of, 131; different kinds of, 279, 280, 281.

Lamassery, in the Gobi, 265; at Tuerin, 268; of Bogdo, at Urga, 277, 278.

Lao-kai, 18-20.

Lao-pan (boat-captain), the, 213, 215, 216.

Laughter, the universal solvent, 60.

Leng Chi, 115.

Lesser Trail, the, 140 ff.

Lhasa, road to, 125, 134; 126, 127, 128, 131, 160, 274, 280.

Li Ching Hsi, and the opium trade of Yunnan, 26; and the Pien-ma question, 30.

Li Ping, 167.

Li-chou, 86, 87.

Lime juice, merits of, 240, 241.

"Lincoln," 31.

Literatus. See Interpreter.

Little, Archibald, 116, 209.

Liu, chair coolie, 79, 84.

Liu, cook, from Chung-king, 5; dismissed at Hankow, 224; 38, 45, 48, 56, 86, 103, 110, 140, 178, 188, 202, 203, 211.

Liu Sha River, 104.

Loess country, the, 228.

Lo-han, 182.

Lololand, the mysterious, 67, 74, 75; neighborhood of, complicates travel in the Chien Ch'ang, 75; measures taken by government thereanent, 77; 92.

Lolos, in Yunnan, 50; "tame," 75, 76; their ethnological status a problem, 76, 77; their proper appellation uncertain, 76, 77; 89, 90, 91, 92, 98, 189.

Losus, in Yunnan, 50.

Lu-Ting Ch'iao, bridge at, the only connecting link between China and Tibet, 116, 117; 115, 139, 142, 145, 161.

Lu-Han R.R., 225, 227, 228.

Lu-ku, 88.

Lung-kai, scanty accommodations at, 63; 101, 206.

Ma-An Shan Pass, 145, 154.

Ma-fu (horse-boy), 48, 157, 161, 164, 165.

Mai-ma-chin, one of the three cities in Urga, 275, 276; the Chinese trading settlement, 276.

Mai-ma-chin, on the Siberian frontier, 302.

Manchu rule, its anti-opium policy one of the causes of its overthrow, 26.

Manchuria, 55, 236.

Manchus, downfall of, and the Six-Power loan of 1908, 226.

Mandarin language, some form of, spoken by five sixths of the people of China, 317.

Mandarin Road, the, 104 ff.

Manners, in China, 129.

Mekong River, 71.

Mencius, quoted, 312.

"Mercury," coolie, 107.

Miaos, in Yunnan, 50.

Mien-ning, 89.

Military schools, in Yunnan, 28.

Military spirit, in Yunnan, 27.

Min River, travelling on, 202 ff.; name unknown to the Chinese, 203; native names for, 203; scenery on, 203, 204; 64, 73, 178, 180.

Ming dynasty, fall of, 171.

Ming Shan (mountain), famous for tea, 163.

Ming Shan-hsien, 163.

Missionaries, at Ya-chou, 158; status of, in China, 158, 159; at Chengtu, 174; at Chung-king, 208.

Mohammedan rebellion, 50, 54.

Mohammedans in Yunnan, 50.

Monasteries on Omei Shan, picturesque names of, 193.

Monastery of Ten Thousand Years. See Wan-nien Ssu.

Monastery of the Voice of the Waters, 182.

Money, arrangements for, 37, 38; Yunnan dollars, 37; Szechuan coins, 37; Hupeh money, 37, 38; difficulties concerning, 97, 98; for the Mongolian journey, 241.

Mongol city, in Urga, 277.

Mongolia, and China, meet at Kalgan, 235; prospective attractions of, 236, 237; preparing for travelling in, 237 ff.; stores, 240, 242, 243; money, 241; on the road from Kalgan, 243 ff.; the "Camel Road" chosen, 245; exports of, mostly animals, 245; post-routes across, 245, 246; Russian influence in, 246; first impressions of, 247; the grassland, 247 ff., 259; inns in, 248; tents or huts ("yurts") in, 248-250; "the unchanging East," 248; the women and children of, 250, 251, 260, 261; topographical description of, 251, 252; population of, 253; government of, 253; opium habit in, 255; wives come high in, 261; Chinese unwelcome aliens in, 276; lamaism in, 279, 280. And see Gobi Desert and Mongolia, Northern.

Mongolia, Northern, rainy season in, 270-272; trade of, controlled by Chinese of Mai-ma-chin, 276; extension of Russian influence in, 284, 285; railway connection would be advantageous to, 285; hold of Chinese Government on, insecure, 285, 286; colonization of, by Chinese, 285, 286.

Mongolian plateau, the, 247 ff.

Mongolian Road, 244.

Mongolian tents. See Tents.

Mongolian women. See Women, Mongolian.

Mongols, material position of, 253; lazy, 254; their herds, 254; neither manufacturers nor tillers of the soil, 254; as tea-drinkers, 254; great endurance of, 254; intemperate, 254, 255, 260; fine horsemen, 255; degenerate sons of a conquering race, 255; oppressed by Chinese, not by China, 260; eye-diseases of, 265; effect of lamaism on, 282; prefer Russians to Chinese, 285; not China, but civilization is driving them to the wall, 296, 297.

Mongols, of the author's Mongolian expedition, 257, 258, 265.

Mongols, Northern, 268, 270.

Monks, of Burma, their Buddhism, 282.

Morrison, George B., 237, 238.

Moscow, 236.

Namti River, 18, 21; valley of, 15, 21.

Nan River, 165.

Nanking, as the possible capital of China, 229; 159, 226.

Nankow, 233, 234.

Nankow, Pass of, 228.

Napoleon III, 8.

Ni T'ou, 111, 121.

Nicholas II, Tsar, 306.

Nicolai, 292, 295.

Ning-yuean-fu. 33, 34, 37, 71, 74, 75, 80-82, 83, 85, 86, 178.

Omei (town), and its pilgrims, 185; its shops, 186.

Omei, Mount. See Omei Shan.

Omei River, 184, 187.

Omei Shan, the holy of holies, 180; ascent of, 187 ff.; myths and legends concerning, 188, 189; monasteries on, 190, 193, 194; memories of a three days' stay on the summit of, 194-199; wherein its charm consists, 198, 199, 280.

Opium habit, among coolies, 107, 108; rare in Mongolia, 255.

Opium trade, in Yunnan, 25, 26; Manchu government adverse to, 26.

Pai-chang, hiring a pony at, 163-165.

Pai-la shu (white-wax tree), 73.

Pailou (memorial arch), 104, 105.

Palm-leaf hats, 19, 20.

Pao-an-ying, 95.

Paper, substitute for glass in West China, 40.

Passports, lack of, 11; not required within Chinese Empire, 212; for Mongolia, 237.

Pechihli, Gulf of, 228.

Peking, arrival at, 228; situation of, 228, 229; the Tartar Wall, 229 ff.; the divers cities of, 230; viewed from the Wall, 231, 232; the American Legation, 232; the streets, 232; to the average European its history begins in 1900, 233; preparing for Mongolian journey at, 237 ff.; 24, 163, 176, 222, 223, 280.

Peking cart, an instrument of torture, 243, 244.

Peking railway, the. See Lu-Han R.R.

People's Assembly, the, 230.

Photographing, in Szechuan, 156.

Pien-ma boundary question, 29, 30.

Pilgrim to Lhasa, the, 112.

Pilgrims to Omei Shan, 185, 187, 189, 193, 195.

P'ing-i-p'u, 98, 99.

Polo, Marco, 74, 81, 124, 171, 172, 230, 244, 248, 250.

Pongkiong, 260.

Ponies, Yunnanese, 34, 35.

Poppies, not now cultivated in Yunnan, 26; banished from Chien Ch'ang, 72, 94.

"Pork money," 36, 96, 97.

Post-routes, between Kalgan and Siberian frontier, 245, 246.

Praying-Stones, 138.

Precious Stone Castle, 214.

Protestant missions in China, achievement of, 158, 159.

P'u-chi, 53.

P'u-hsien Bodhisattva, 189, 190, 191.

P'u Yi, the baby Emperor, and the new government, 231.

Purple City, the, in Peking, 230.

Queue, the, 43.

Railway, projected by Chinese Government, 15, 16.

Railways in China, history of, 225, 226; the Kalgan-Peking line the first one built by Chinese, 234.

Rainy season, the, in No. Mongolia, 270-272.

Rats, 21.

Red lama, the, 258, 265.

Red River R.R., from Hanoi to Yunnan-fu, 14-23; no night traffic on, 14; accommodations on, 14; a remarkable undertaking, 14, 15; engineering difficulties of, 15; rates on, excessive, 15; 4.

Reeves, Captain, 237.

Reform movement, in Yunnan, 27.

"Relay," the. See Mongolian Road.

Religion, in India, 310; in China, 311.

Religions, great diversity of, in Yunnan, 50.

Revolution, Chinese, effect of, on railway project, 16; 27, 28, 125, 177, 201, 222.

Richthofen, Baron von, 106, 165, 166.

Rivers of Sand. See Sha Ho.

Rockhill, Mr. W. W., American explorer and diplomat, 112.

Roman Catholic missions in China, 158.

Roman Catholic missionaries at Chengtu, 174.

Rosthorn, A. de, his Tea Cultivation in Szechuan, 163.

Russia, and the Mongolian postal service, 246; her policy of "peaceful penetration," 246; extension of her influence in No. Mongolia, 284, 285.

Russian Consulate at Urga, 277, 278.

Russian frontier. See Siberian frontier.

Russian settlement in Urga, 277, 291.

Russians, in Urga, 284.

Russo-Asiatic Bank (Urga), 241, 277, 284.

Sacred City, the. See Urga.

Salween River, 71.

Sandals, 43, 44.

"Second Gentleman," the (son of Li Ping), 167.

Sedan-chair, method of travelling in, described, 34.

Sha Ho, 252.

Sha Shen Ho, 244.

Shamo. See Gobi Desert.

Shanghai, 4, 222, 225, 226.

Shans, in Yunnan, 50.

Shantung, 236.

Shields, Dr., 158.

Shields, Mrs., 158.

Shih Ta-k'ai, Taiping leader, 89, 99.

Shyok River, 60.

Si Kiang, the, 29.

Siberian frontier, post-routes from Kalgan to, 245, 246; arrival at, 301-303.

Siberian Railway, 236, 306, 307.

Sikiang, the, river steamer, from Hong Kong to Haiphong on, 5-11.

Sinden-fu, Marco Polo's name for Chengtu, 171.

Singapore, Chinese Consul-General at, his mourning, 88.

Six-Power Loan of 1908, proved the undoing of the Manchus, 226.

Soap, in Mongolia, 261, 262.

Soothill, Dr., 159.

"Squeeze," the, 96, 97.

Standard Oil Co., and the white-wax industry, 73; 85.

Standard Oil tins, use of, in Mongolia, 250.

Stevenson, Owen, missionary, 33, 41, 53.

Suechi, 184.

Sugar, a great delicacy in Mongolia, 301.

Suifu, 64, 75, 203, 206.

Sung-lin, inn at, 87.

Szechuan province, natives of, 51; travelling in, 63 ff.; the Cloud Mountains, 64; private school in, 67, 68; condition of people in, 68; western boundary of, 124; beginning of its later history, 171, 172; viceroy of, 172; Railway League of, and the revolution, 177; "chuman" pagodas of, 204; the river the sole highway to, 219; future of, 219, 220; 5, 26, 37, 39, 55.

Szechuan dogs, and the sun, 64.

Szechuan money, 37.

Szechuan road, the, 217, 218.

Ta Ho, 235.

Ta Fo Rapid, 181.

Ta Huren, the Mongol city of Urga, 277, 286-288; alien elements in, 287, 288; 291.

Ta Liang Shan (Lololand), 74, 75, 92.

Ta Shueh Shan, 117.

Ta Tu Ho, the limit of direct Chinese administration, 124; its only bridge, 116, 117, 139; its change of name, 118, 119; valley of, 114, 115, 144, 145; 42, 89, 99, 101, 143, 161, 180, 181, 182, 184.

Tachienlu, sui generis, 123; situation of, 123; China and Tibet meet in, 123; in the grip of lamaism, 124; principality of King of Chala, 125; government of, 125; key to the western country, 125; meeting Capt. Bailey at, 126 ff.; postal arrangements at, 128; the people the most interesting feature of, 130, 131; practically all China-Tibet traffic passes through, 132, 133; visit to a temple at, 136-138; priests of, 138; 105, 106, 110, 119, 141, 160, 248.

Tailless dog, hunt for the, 205.

Taiping rebellion, the, 89, 99.

Ta-kiang, the Min sometimes so-called, 203.

Taoism, 317.

Tar Ho, 123.

Tarantass, travelling in a, 289-304.

Tarchendo River, 118, 119, 120, 123, 141, 142; valley of, 119, 120, 121.

Tartar City, the, in Peking, 230.

Tartar Wall, the, at Peking, 229 ff.

Tashi Lama, the, 277.

Ta-shu-p'u, unique instance of native unfriendliness at, 99, 100; 101, 105.

Tchagan Hou, 269, 271, 274, 289.

Tea, on the Mandarin Road, 105 ff.; heavy loads of carriers of, 105; of Ming Shan, 163. And see Brick tea.

Tea, Szechuan, 159.

Tea-houses, on the Mandarin Road, 108, 109; 44.

Temple of Heaven, the, 230, 231.

Temples, Chinese, generally uninteresting, 32.

Teng-hsiang-ying, 89, 90, 92.

Tents, in Mongolia, described by Marco Polo and by Abbe Huc, 248-250.

Tibet, and China, meet in Tachienlu, 123; frontier of, 124; relations with China, how affected by Chinese revolution, 125; Chinese conquest of, 125, 126.

Tibet, Western, adventure in, 60.

Tibetan Mountains, 92, 123, 162.

Tibetans, consume vast quantities of brick-tea, 105, 160; in Tachienlu, 124, 131, 134; defended by Captain Bailey, 132; in Omei, 190; and Mongols, 248; effect of lamaism on, 282.

Tien-chuean-chou, approach to, 153, 154; 155.

Tien-Shan, 251.

Tientsin, 257, 279.

Tobacco, use of, universal, 66, 67.

Tola River, 274, 275, 276.

Tommy Atkins, in India, and the vernacular, 20.

Tonking, under Doumer, 9-11; its value as the key to China, 10.

Tonking-Yunnan R.R. See Red River R.R.

"Trackers" on the Yangtse, 215, 216, 218, 219.

Travellers on Red River R.R., 16, 17.

Tso-ling Ho, 62.

Tsungli Yamen, 229.

Tuan Fang, 226, 227.

Tuerin, 268, 269.

Urga, the Sacred City, approach to, 273, 274; first sight of, 274; arrival at, 275; three cities in one, 276, 277; Chinese government of, 277; described, 277; worship of Bogdo in, 277; pilgrimages to, 278; a wealthy Mongol household in, 282-284; railway prospects of, 285; difficult departure from, 289-291; 6, 29, 238, 239, 240, 241, 243, 244, 245, 252, 253, 257, 304.

Vegetables, washing, in China, 206; fresh, for Mongolian journey, 242.

Verchneudinsk, 304, 305, 306, 307.

Villages, in Yunnan, 45.

Wa Ssu Kou, 118, 119, 141, 142.

Wagons Lits, Hotel des, at Peking, 228.

Wai-wu-pu, the, 237, 243.

Wang, interpreter, cook, and general factotum, for the Mongolian journey, 237, 241, 242, 257, 262, 269, 275, 289, 290, 291, 294, 297, 299.

Wan-hsien, 177, 214, 219.

Wan-nien Ssu, 190, 191.

Water, a serious problem in the Gobi Desert, 264.

Water Gate (Peking), 229.

Wellwood, Mr., missionary, 81, 84.

Wellwood, Mrs., 178.

Wells, in Gobi Desert, 252, 264.

West, the, zeal of, mars as well as mends, 129.

West China, former ways of reaching, 3; now simplified by French enterprise, 3.

West River valley, 16.

White Emperor's Temple, the, 217.

White Tsar, the, 246.

White-wax industry, the, 72, 73; wrecked by Standard Oil Co., 73.

Wild life, in the Gobi Desert, 262, 263.

Windbox Gorge, 216.

"Wine money," 83, 84.

Wives, come high in Mongolia, 261; their status, 261.

Wolves, Mongolian, 262, 263.

Women, Chinese, qualities of, 86.

Women, Mongolian, their vanity, 261, 262; their dress, 270, 271; 250, 251.

Woosung, 225.

Wuchang, provincial capital of Hupeh, 222. See Hankow.

Wu-pan (boat), down the Min and Yangtse in, 202 ff.

Wu-ting-chou, 57-60.

Ya Ho, difficult navigation of, 161; scenery on, 161, 162; valley of, 157; 152, 154, 180, 184.

Ya-chou, 105, 106, 139, 140, 155, 157, 158, 159, 161, 166, 207.

Yalung River, 67, 71.

Yang, Mr., 211.

Yangtse River, crossing, 63; its swift current, 63, 64; the "River of Golden Sand," 64; at Suifu, 206; travelling on, 206 ff.; gorges of, 218; at Ichang, 221; and Han, three cities at junction of, 222; contrast between, and the Hoang, 228; 3, 37, 42, 71, 116, 163, 165. And see Min River.

Yellow Emperor, the, 189.

Yellow River. See Hoang.

"Young Ladies." See Annamese Tirailleurs.

Younghusband expedition to Lhasa, 126.

Yuan Shih Kai, 227.

Yuan-pu, the, 192.

Yueeh-hsi, 94.

Yun Bay, 16.

Yunnan, province of, effects of Mohammedan rebellion in, 27; the railway brings new life to, 27; the Reform movement in, 27, 28; new military spirit in, 27, 28; significance of adhesion to western ideas, 27, 28; dread of foreign interference in, 28, 29; French encroachments in, 29; French consulate in, 29; government projects of railways in, 29; Bureau of Foreign Affairs and its chief, 30, 31, 38; travelling across, 42 ff.; meaning of the name, 49; a "land of sunshine," 49; varied inhabitants of, 49, 50; conquest of, by Kublai Khan, 50; proportion of tribes in population of, 50; ethnological map of, a wonderful patchwork, 50; variety of religions in, 50; a fine field for civil discord, 50; natives of, 51; hill-roads in, 52; travelling among the mountains in, 54 ff.; estimated population of, 55; 3, 9, 22.

Yunnan dollars, 37.

Yunnan pony, 102.

Yunnan-fu, from Haiphong to, by rail, 13, 14; approach to, 21, 22; its picturesque situation, 23; its climate, 23; an unattractive city, 24; its lake, 24, 25; famous for its metal work, 25; opium trade banished from, 25, 26; military school in, 28; French predominance in, 29; a native official hostess at, 31; excursions from, 32; hiring coolies at, 33-35, 36; departure from, 41, 42; 3, 21.

Yurts (Mongolian huts), 248, 249.



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