Inner island near Point Avoid, N. 31 deg. W. Nearest part of the cliffs, E. N. E. The sloping low point, S. 71 E. Liguanea Island, highest part, S. 57 E.

At seven in the evening, we came in with the land a little further to windward, and tacked at a mile and a half from a patch of breakers which lie N. 72 deg. W. three or four miles from the sloping low point. This point was still the furthest part of the main land visible, the coast seeming from thence to take a more eastern direction.

FRIDAY 19 FEBRUARY 1802

In the afternoon of the 19th when the wind had returned to the south, we passed to windward of Liguanea Island, and saw it surrounded with many breakers on its south and west sides. The sloping low point was also visible; and three miles further eastward there was a steep head, with two high rocks and one lower near it, of which Mr. Westall made a sketch. (Atlas Plate XVII. View 7.) This projection I named CAPE WILES, after a worthy friend at Liguanea, in Jamaica; it lies in latitude 34 deg. 57' south, and longitude 135 deg. 381/2' east. Before dark we got sight of a hill situate upon a projecting cape, thirteen miles to the east-south-east of Cape Wiles, and observed the intermediate coast to form a large bight or bay, which I proposed to examine in the morning; and for that purpose we stood off and on during the night, with the wind from the southward.

SATURDAY 20 FEBRUARY 1802

At daylight of the 20th the hill on the east side of the bight bore N. 68 deg. E. five or six miles, and an island, named Isle Williams, was seen to lie two miles from it to the south-east. We steered north-west soon afterward, up the bight; but in an hour were able to see the land all round, and that this place, which, I called SLEAFORD BAY, was dangerous with the wind at south-east, as it was then blowing. We therefore braced up, to work out; and at noon, our situation, with that of the surrounding lands, was as follows:

Latitude, observed to the north and south, 35 deg. 2' 33" Longitude by time keepers, 135 44 Liguana Isle, the centre nearly, N. 67 W. Cape Wiles, centre of the cliffs, N. 38 W. Hill on the east side of Sleaford Bay, N. 77 E. Isle Williams, E. 2 N.

In the afternoon the wind favoured us by veering to south-by-west, and the passage between the projection of the hill and Isle Williams, (Atlas Plate XVII. View 8.) seeming to be clear, we steered through it with good soundings, the least being 12 fathoms, upon rippling water. Three miles further the main land formed a point, and took the uncommon direction of N. 15 deg. W.; but to the eastward, there was a large piece of land, whether island or main we could not tell, and several small islands lay between. The opening was four miles wide; and we steered into it, passing through ripplings of tide with irregular soundings. No land could be seen to the north-east, but the night was coming on; and as the eastern land sheltered us from the present wind, we ran within half a mile of the shore and anchored in 31/2 fathoms. The master was sent to sound about the ship; and finding we had not a sufficient depth for swinging toward the shore, the anchor was tripped and let go further out, in 7 fathoms, on a sandy bottom. No part of the eastern land was visible beyond the bearing of N. 76 deg. E., distant one mile and a half; and the furthest extreme of what we could be certain was main land bore N. 17 deg. W.

A tide from the north-eastward, apparently the ebb, ran more than one mile an hour; which was the more remarkable from no set of tide, worthy to be noticed, having hitherto been observed upon this coast. No land could be seen in the direction from whence it came; and these circumstances, with the trending of the coast to the north, did not fail to excite many conjectures. Large rivers, deep inlets, inland seas, and passages into the Gulph of Carpentaria, were terms frequently used in our conversations of this evening; and the prospect of making an interesting discovery seemed to have infused new life and vigour into every man in the ship.

SUNDAY 21 FEBRUARY 1802

Early in the morning I went on shore to the eastern land, anxious to ascertain its connexion with or separation from the main. There were seals upon the beach, and further on, numberless traces of the kangaroo. Signs of extinguished fire existed everywhere; but they bespoke a conflagration of the woods, of remote date, rather than the habitual presence of men, and might have arisen from lightning, or from the friction of two trees in a strong wind. Upon the whole I satisfied myself of the insularity of this land; and gave to it, shortly after, the name of THISTLE'S ISLAND, from the master who accompanied me. In our way up the hills, to take a commanding station for the survey, a speckled, yellow snake lay asleep before us. By pressing the butt-end of a musket upon his neck I kept him down whilst Mr. Thistle, with a sail needle and twine, sewed up his mouth; and he was taken on board alive for the naturalist to examine; but two others of the same species had already been killed, and one of them was seven feet nine inches in length. We were proceeding onward with our prize when a white eagle, with fierce aspect and outspread wing, was seen bounding towards us; but stopping short at twenty yards off, he flew up into a tree. Another bird of the same kind discovered himself by making a motion to pounce down upon us as we passed underneath; and it seemed evident that they took us for kangaroos, having probably never seen an upright animal in the island of any other species. These birds sit watching in the trees, and should a kangaroo come out to feed in the day-time, it is seized and torn to pieces by these voracious creatures. This accounted for why so few kangaroos were seen, when traces of them were met with at every step; and for their keeping so much under thick bushes that it was impossible to shoot them. Their size was superior to any of those found upon the more western islands, but much inferior to the forest kangaroo of the continent.

From a clear spot upon the north-western head of the island I traced the main coast to a cape bearing N. 18 deg. W., where it was lost, but reappeared at a further distance, and extended to N. 21/2 deg. W. More to the right were three small islands, which I named Sibsey, Stickney, and Spilsby Islands, but no other land in a north-east, and none in an eastern direction. On the opposite side, six leagues out at sea, there was a small cluster of low islands, and some rocks and breakers at a less distance; these were called Neptune's Isles, for they seemed to be inaccessible to men. In the opening between Thistle's Island and the main are several small isles; and the two southernmost so much contract the entrance of the passage that one mile and a half of its breadth, between the main land and western isle, are alone safe for ships; I gave to this the name of THORNY PASSAGE. The bearings taken at this station, of most importance to the survey, were these:

Hill on the east side of Sleaford Bay, S. 70 deg. 50' W. Point where the coast turns northward, S. 73 30 W. Hill of a conic form, on the main land, N. 35 50 W. Sibsey I., centre, over a nearer low rock, N. 12 0 E. Stickney Island, centre, N. 26 0 E. Spilsby Island, centre, N. 33 0 E. Thistle's I., west side, furthest visible part, S. 35 30 E. Neptune's Isles, the furthest, centre, S. 5 30 E. —— two nearer, the extremes, S. 1 deg. E to 4 0 W.

Thistle's Island is about twelve miles long, and from one to two or three in breadth, and in the middle part is high enough to be seen ten or twelve leagues from a ship's deck. The stone of the north-east end was found to be calcareous; but at the top of the north-west head, not less than two hundred feet high, there were many small pieces of granite, rounded to all appearance by attrition in the water. Some of the cliffs on the western side are white, as if composed of chalk, and the soil in general seemed to be sandy; yet the island was pretty well covered with wood, principally eucalyptus and casuarina. No water could be found; and as the ship's hold was becoming very empty, I returned on board, after observing the latitude, with the intention of running over to the main in search of it. But on comparing the longitude observed by lieutenant Flinders with that resulting from my bearings, a difference was found which made it necessary to repeat the observation on shore; and as this would prolong the time too near dusk for moving the ship, Mr. Thistle was sent over with a cutter to the mainland in search of an anchoring place where water might be procured.

The latitude of a small beach on the north end of Thistle's Island was found to be 34 deg. 56'; and longitude, by the time-keepers corrected, 136 deg. 31/2', agreeing with thirty sets of lunar observations reduced to a place connected with this by land bearings. The strongest tides set past the ship at the rate of two miles an hour, from the north-north-east and south-south-west; the latter, which appeared to be the flood, ceasing to run at the time of the moon's passage over the meridian. It rose seven feet and a half by the lead line in the night of the 20th; and there were two tides in the twenty-four hours.

At dusk in the evening the cutter was seen under sail, returning from the main land; but not arriving in half an hour, and the sight of it having been lost rather suddenly, a light was shown and lieutenant Fowler went in a boat, with a lanthorn, to see what might have happened. Two hours passed without receiving any tidings. A gun was then fired, and Mr. Fowler returned soon afterward, but alone. Near the situation where the cutter had been last seen he met with so strong a rippling of tide that he himself narrowly escaped being upset; and there was reason to fear that it had actually happened to Mr. Thistle. Had there been daylight, it is probable that some or all of the people might have been picked up; but it was too dark to see anything, and no answer could be heard to the hallooing or to the firing of muskets. The tide was setting to the southward and ran an hour and a half after the missing boat had been last seen, so that it would be carried to seaward in the first instance; and no more than two out of the eight people being at all expert in swimming, it was much to be feared that most of them would be lost.*

[* This evening, Mr. Fowler told me a circumstance which I thought extraordinary; and it afterwards proved to be more so. Whilst we were lying at Spithead, Mr. Thistle was one day waiting on shore, and having nothing else to do he went to a certain old man, named Pine, to have his fortune told. The cunning man informed him that he was going out a long voyage, and that the ship, on arriving at her destination, would be joined by another vessel. That such was intended, he might have learned privately; but he added, that Mr. Thistle would be lost before the other vessel joined. As to the manner of his loss the magician refused to give any information. My boat's crew, hearing what Mr. Thistle said, went also to consult the wise man; and after the prefatory information of a long voyage, were told that they would be shipwrecked, but not in the ship they were going out in: whether they would escape and return to England, he was not permitted to reveal.

This tale Mr. Thistle had often told at the mess table; and I remarked with some pain in a future part of the voyage, that every time my boat's crew went to embark with me in the Lady Nelson, there was some degree of apprehension amongst them that the time of the predicted shipwreck was arrived. I make no comment upon this story, but recommend a commander, if possible, to prevent any of his crew from consulting fortune tellers.]

MONDAY 22 FEBRUARY 1802

At daybreak I got the ship under way and steered across Thorny Passage, over to the main land, in the direction where the cutter had been seen; keeping an officer at the masthead, with a glass, to look out for her. There were many strong ripplings, and some uncommonly smooth places where a boat, which was sent to sound, had 12 fathoms. We passed to the northward of all these; and seeing a small cove with a sandy beach, steered in and anchored in 10 fathoms, sandy bottom; the main land extending from north-half-west, round by the west and south to east-south-east, and the open space being partly sheltered by the northern islands of the passage.

[SOUTH COAST. CAPE CATASTROPHE.]

A boat was despatched in search of the lost cutter, and presently returned towing in the wreck, bottom upward; it was stove in every part, having to all appearance been dashed against the rocks. One of the oars was afterwards found, but nothing could be seen of our unfortunate shipmates. The boat was again sent away in search; and a midshipman was stationed upon a headland, without-side of the cove, to observe everything which might drift past with the tide. Mr. Brown and a party landed to walk along the shore to the northward, whilst I proceeded to the southern extremity of the mainland, which was now named Cape Catastrophe. On landing at the head of the cove I found several footmarks of our people, made on the preceding afternoon when looking for water; and in my way up the valley I prosecuted the same research, but ineffectually, although there were many huts and other signs that natives had resided there lately.

From the heights near the extremity of Cape Catastrophe I examined with a glass the islands lying off, and all the neighbouring shores, for any appearance of our people, but in vain; I therefore took a set of angles for the survey and returned on board; and on comparing notes with the different parties, it appeared that no further information had been obtained of our unfortunate companions.

TUESDAY 23 FEBRUARY 1802

Next morning I went in a boat ten miles along the shore to the northward, in the double view of continuing the search and carrying on the survey. All the little sinuosities of the coast were followed, and in one place I picked up a small keg which had belonged to Mr. Thistle, and also some broken pieces of the boat but these were all that could be discovered. After taking angles at three stations on the main land, I crossed over to the northernmost and largest of the six small islands lying within Thorny passage. It is a mile and a half long, with a small islet off the north and another off its south end. These I called Taylor's Isles, in memory of the young gentleman who was in the cutter with Mr. Thistle. They lie near two miles from the main, and the depth between is from 7 to 10 fathoms, on a sandy bottom. A ship might anchor and be sheltered here, off a small beach at the north end of the largest island; but I did not find any fresh water, either there or on the opposite parts of the main land.

On returning to the ship I learned from some of the gentlemen who had been at the top of the highest hills at the back of the cove, that they had seen an inlet, going in westward, a little beyond where my excursion had terminated. Next day [WEDNESDAY 24 FEBRUARY 1802], I went up with instruments; and having climbed upon a high lump of granite, saw the water extending 40 deg. behind the coast, and forming, apparently, an extensive port. The view taken from near the same spot by Mr. Westall shows what was visible of this fine piece of water, and the appearance of the neighbouring land. In addition to this interesting discovery, I obtained bearings of Cape Wiles, of the furthest extremity of Thistle's Island, and of a group of four islands and two rocks, five leagues beyond it to the east-south-east. The largest of these was named Wedge Island, from its shape, and the group GAMBIER'S ISLES, in honour of the worthy admiral (now lord Gambier) who had a seat at the Admiralty board when the Investigator was ordered to be fitted.

This morning lieutenant Fowler had been sent to search the southern islands in Thorny Passage for any remains of our people; but he was not able to land, nor in rowing round them to see any indication of the objects of his pursuit. The recovery of their bodies was now the furthest to which our hopes extended; but the number of sharks seen in the cove and at the last anchorage rendered even this prospect of melancholy satisfaction extremely doubtful; and our want of water becoming every day more pressing, we prepared to depart for the examination of the new opening to the northward. I caused an inscription to be engraven upon a sheet of copper, and set up on a stout post at the head of the cove, which I named Memory Cove; and further to commemorate our loss, I gave to each of the six islands nearest to Cape Catastrophe the name of one of the seamen: Thistle's and Taylor's Islands have been already mentioned. Mr. Westall's view from the ship in Memory Cove, represents Thistle's Island and three of the small isles in front of it.

(Atlas, Plate XVII, View 9.)

The reader will pardon me the observation that Mr. Thistle was truly a valuable man, as a seaman, an officer, and a good member of society. I had known him, and we had mostly served together, from the year 1794. He had been with Mr. Bass in his perilous expedition in the whale-boat, and with me in the voyage round Van Diemen's Land, and in the succeeding expedition to Glass-house and Hervey's Bays. From his merit and prudent conduct he was promoted from before the mast to be a midshipman, and afterwards a master in his Majesty's service. His zeal for discovery had induced him to join the Investigator when at Spithead and ready to sail, although he had returned to England only three weeks before, after an absence of six years. Besides performing assiduously the duties of his situation, Mr. Thistle had made himself well acquainted with the practice of nautical astronomy, and began to be very useful in the surveying department. His loss was severely felt by me; and he was lamented by all on board, more especially by his mess-mates, who knew more intimately the goodness and stability of his disposition.

Mr. William Taylor, the midshipman of the boat, was a young officer who promised fair to become an ornament to the service, as he was to society by the amiability of his manners and temper. The six seamen had all volunteered for the voyage. They were active and useful young men; and in a small and incomplete ship's company, which had so many duties to perform, this diminution of our force was heavily felt.

The latitude of our anchorage in Memory Cove was 34 deg. 58' south, and longitude 135 deg. 561/2' east. The variation observed on the binnacle by lieutenant Flinders, when the ship's head was S. by W., was 2 deg. 38' east, or corrected for one point of western deviation from the magnetic meridian, 2 deg. 0' east. In the bearings taken on the eastern side of the high land behind the cove, the variation appeared to be 3 deg. 20', but upon the summit it was 1 deg. 40', being less than on board the ship.

The soil of the land round Memory Cove, and of Cape Catastrophe in general, is barren; though the vallies and eastern sides of the hills are covered with brushwood, and in the least barren parts there are small trees of the genus eucalyptus. The basis stone is granite, mostly covered with calcareous rock, sometimes lying in loose pieces; but the highest tops of the hills are huge blocks of granite. Four kangaroos, not larger than those of Thistle's Island, were seen amongst the brushwood; and traces of natives were found so recent, that although none of the inhabitants were seen, they must have been there not longer than a day before. Water does consequently exist somewhere in the neighbourhood, but all our researches could not discover it.

Before quitting Memory Cove a boat was sent to haul a seine upon the beach, which was done with such success that every man had two meals of fish and some to spare for salting. In the morning [THURSDAY 25 FEBRUARY 1802] we sailed for the new discovered inlet, and at two o'clock passed round the projection which had been set at N. 18 deg. W. from Thistle's Island. It formed the south side of the entrance to the new opening, and is named CAPE DONINGTON. Our soundings in passing it were from 7 to 9 fathoms, and in steering south-westward we left an island four miles long, named Boston Island, on the starboard hand, and passed two islets on the other side, called Bicker Isles, which lie off Surfleet Point. On the depth of water diminishing to 5 fathoms we tacked, and presently came to an anchor on the west side of this point in 41/2 fathoms, soft grey sand. We were then three miles within the entrance, and the nearest shore was a beach half a mile distant, lying under a hill which had been seen from Thistle's Island. This is a ridge of moderately high land about two miles long, but when seen to the north or south it assumes a conical form. I named it Stamford Hill; and there being a good deal of wood scattered over it, a hope was given of procuring water by digging at the foot. A boat was sent to make the experiment this evening, at the back of the beach; but the water which flowed into the pit was quite salt; and notwithstanding the many natives huts about, no fresh water could be found.

Boston Island at the entrance of the port being also woody and of some elevation, the boat was sent next morning [FRIDAY 26 FEBRUARY 1802] to search there for water; and in the mean time I landed with the botanists, and ascended Stamford Hill to ascertain the nature of this inlet and take angles. The port was seen to terminate seven or eight miles to the west-south-west; but there was a piece of water beyond it, apparently a lake or mere, from which we, might hope to obtain a supply, if no more convenient watering place could be found. Betwixt Cape Donington at the entrance, and Surfleet Point, was a large cove with a sandy beach at the head, capable of sheltering a fleet of ships, if the depth should be sufficient, as it appeared to be, to receive them; this was named Spalding Cove. Wood was not wanting there, but no stream of water could be distinguished. On the north side of the port, higher up, was a projecting piece of land, with an island lying off it nearly one mile in length. This island, which was named Grantham Island, contracts the width of that part to one mile and three-quarters; whereas above and below it the width is from two to three miles.

The eastern entrance to the port, between Boston Island and Cape Donington, is one mile and a half wide; the western entrance, betwixt the island and what was called Kirton Point, is larger, and appeared to be as deep as the first, in which we had from 7 to 9 fathoms. From Kirton Point, northward, the shore curves back to the west, and makes a semicircular sweep round the island, forming an outer bay which was named Boston Bay. It is terminated by Point Boston, a low point one mile and a half from the north end of the island; but whether the water between them be deep was not ascertained. From Point Boston the shore takes another sweep to the west and northward, and comes out again three or four leagues to the north-east, at a low but somewhat cliffy projection, to which I gave the name of Point Bolingbroke. The large bight within received the appellation of Louth Bay; and two low islands in it, of which the largest is more than a mile in length, were called Louth Isles. At Point Bolingbroke the land appeared to trend north or westward, and could no further be perceived from Stamford Hill.

Three small isles had been seen from Thistle's Island and their bearings set, and the discovery of them was now augmented by several others, forming a cluster to the eastward of Point Bolingbroke. This was called SIR JOSEPH BANKS' GROUP, in compliment to the Right Honourable president of the Royal Society, to whose exertion and favour the voyage was so much indebted.

Of the numerous bearings taken with a theodolite from the top of Stamford Hill, those which follow were the most important to the connexion of the survey.

Extreme of the land toward C. Catastrophe, S. 17 deg. 56' E. Thistle's I., highest part and N. E. extr., S. 40 deg. and 42 50 E. Sir J. Banks' Group, Stickney I., centre, N. 70 30 E. —— Sibsey Island, centre, N. 57 10 E. —— Kirkby Island, centre, N. 45 20 E. Cape Donington, north-west extremity, N. 37 50 E. Point Bolingbroke, south end, N. 29 12 E. Boston Island, highest hill near the centre, N. 5 10 W. —— the extremes, N. 15 deg. 54' E. to 13 46 W. A lake behind the head of the port, N. end, S. 74 40 W.

[SOUTH COAST. PORT LINCOLN.]

The port which formed the most interesting part of these discoveries I named PORT LINCOLN, in honour of my native province; and having gained a general knowledge of it and finished the bearings, we descended the hill and got on board at ten o'clock. The boat had returned from Boston Island, unsuccessful in her search for water; and we therefore proceeded upward, steering different courses to find the greatest depth. Soon after one o'clock we anchored in 4 fathoms, soft bottom, one mile from the beach at the furthest head of the port, and something less from the southern shore.

Fresh water being at this time the most pressing of our wants, I set off the same afternoon, with a party, to examine the lake or mere discovered from Stamford Hill. The way to it was over low land covered with loose pieces of calcareous rock; the soil was moist in some places, and, though generally barren, was overspread with grass and shrubs, interspersed with a few clumps of small trees. After walking two miles we reached the lake, but to our mortification the water was brackish and not drinkable; the distance, besides, from Port Lincoln was too great to roll casks over a stony road. This piece of water was named Sleaford Mere. It is one mile broad, and appeared to be three or four in length. The shore was a whitish, hardened clay, covered at this time with a thin crust, in which salt was a component part. The sun being too near the horizon to admit of going round the mere, our way was bent towards the ship; and finding a moist place within a hundred yards of the head of the port, I caused a hole to be dug there. A stratum of whitish clay was found at three feet below the surface, and on penetrating this, water drained in, which was perfectly sweet though discoloured; and we had the satisfaction to return on board with the certainty of being able to procure water, although it would probably require some time to fill all our empty casks.

SATURDAY 27 FEBRUARY 1802

Early in the morning a party of men was sent with spades to dig pits; and the time-keepers and astronomical instruments, with two tents, followed under the charge of Mr. Flinders. I went to attend the digging, leaving orders with Mr. Fowler to moor the ship and send on shore empty casks. The water flowed in pretty freely, and though of a whitish colour, and at first somewhat thick, it was well tasted. Before the evening the observations for the rates of the time-keepers were commenced; and the gunner was installed in the command of a watering party, and furnished with axes to cut wood at such times as the pits might require to be left for replenishing.

The necessary duties being all set forward under the superintendance of proper officers, I employed the following days in surveying and sounding. The direction of the port was too remote from the meridian to obtain a base line from differences of latitude, which, when observed in an artificial horizon, and at stations wide apart, I consider to be the best; nor was there any convenient beach or open place where a base line could be measured. It was therefore attempted in the following manner: Having left orders on board the ship to fire three guns at given times, I went to the south-east end of Boston Island with a pendulum made to swing half-seconds. It was a musket ball slung with twine, and measured 9.8 inches from the fixed end of the twine to the centre of the ball. From the instant that the flash of the first gun was perceived to the time of hearing the report I counted eighty-five vibrations of the pendulum, and the same with two succeeding guns; whence the length of the base was deduced to be 8.01 geographic miles.* A principal station in the survey of Port Lincoln was a hill on the north side called Northside Hill, which afforded a view extending to Sleaford Mere and Bay and as far as Cape Wiles on one side, and to the hills at the beak of Coffin's Bay on the other. A great part of the bearings taken from hence crossed those from Stamford Hill very advantageously.

[* This length was founded on the supposition, that sound travels at the rate of 1142 feet in a second of time, and that 6060 feet make a geographic mile. A base of 15' 24" of latitude was afterwards obtained from observations in an artificial horizon, and of 25' 17" of longitude from the time keepers with new rates, both correct, as I believe, to a few seconds. From this long base and theodolite bearings, the first base appeared to be somewhat too short; for they gave it 8.22 instead of 8.01 miles. The length of the pendulum in the first measurement was such as to swing half seconds in England; and I had not thought it, in this case, worth attention, that by the laws of gravity and the oblate spheroid, the pendulum would not swing so quick in the latitude of 35 deg.. I must leave it to better mathematicians to determine from the data and the true length of a geographic mile in this latitude, whether the base ought to have been 8.22 as given by the observations and bearings: it was proved to be sufficiently near for all the purposes of a common nautical survey.]

Amongst the various excursions made by the scientific gentlemen, one was directed to Sleaford Mere, of which they made the circuit. The two southern branches were found to terminate within a hundred yards of the head of Sleaford Bay, with which the mere had been suspected to have a communication from its water being not quite fresh; but they are separated by a stony bank too high for the surf ever to pass over it. At the head of the bay a boat's sail and yard were seen floating, and no doubt had belonged to our unfortunate cutter: after being set out to sea by the tide, it had been driven up there by the late south-east winds.

WEDNESDAY 3 MARCH 1802

The refitment of the ship being nearly completed on the 3rd of March, lieutenant Fowler was sent round to Memory Cove in a boat, to make a final search along the shores and round the islands in Thorny Passage for the bodies of our late shipmates, which the sea might have thrown up. On the 4th [THURSDAY 4 MARCH 1802] the last turn of water was received, and completed our stock up to sixty tons; and the removal of our establishment from the shore waited only for the observation of a solar eclipse, announced in the nautical ephemeris for this day. The morning was cloudy, with rain; but towards noon the weather cleared up, and I had the satisfaction to observe the eclipse with a refracting telescope of forty-six inches focus, and a power of about two hundred. The beginning took place at 1h 12' 37.8" of apparent time, and the end at 3h 36' 11.8". So soon as the observation was concluded, the tents and astronomical instruments were carried on board, the launch was hoisted in, and everything prepared for going down the port on the following morning.

Many straggling bark huts, similar to those on other parts of the coast were seen upon the shores of Port Lincoln, and the paths near our tents had been long and deeply trodden; but neither in my excursions nor in those of the botanists had any of the natives been discovered. This morning, however, three or four were heard calling to a boat, as was supposed, which had just landed; but they presently walked away, or perhaps retired into the wood to observe our movements. No attempt was made to follow them, for I had always found the natives of this country to avoid those who seemed anxious for communication; whereas, when left entirely alone, they would usually come down after having watched us for a few days. Nor does this conduct seem to be unnatural; for what, in such case, would be the conduct of any people, ourselves for instance, were we living in a state of nature, frequently at war with our neighbours, and ignorant of the existence of any other nation? On the arrival of strangers, so different in complexion and appearance to ourselves, having power to transport themselves over, and even living upon an element which to us was impassable, the first sensation would probably be terror, and the first movement flight. We should watch these extraordinary people from our retreats in the woods and rocks, and if we found ourselves sought and pursued by them, should conclude their designs to be inimical; but if, on the contrary, we saw them quietly employed in occupations which had no reference to us, curiosity would get the better of fear; and after observing them more closely, we should ourselves seek a communication. Such seemed to have been the conduct of these Australians; and I am persuaded that their appearance on the morning when the tents were struck was a prelude to their coming down, and that had we remained a few days longer, a friendly communication would have ensued. The way was, however, prepared for the next ship which may enter this port, as it was to us in King George's Sound by captain Vancouver and the ship Elligood, to whose previous visits and peaceable conduct we were most probably indebted for our early intercourse with the inhabitants of that place. So far as could be perceived with a glass, the natives of this port were the same in personal appearance as those of King George's Sound and Port Jackson. In the hope of conciliating their good will to succeeding visitors, some hatchets and various other articles were left in their paths, or fastened to stumps of the trees which had been cut down near our watering pits.

In expressing an opinion that these people have no means of passing the water, it must be understood to be a deduction from our having met with no canoe, or the remains of any about the port; nor with any tree in the woods from which a sufficient size of bark had been taken to make one. Upon Boston Island, however, there were abundant marks of fire; but they had the appearance, as at Thistle's Island, of having been caused by some conflagration of the woods several years before, rather than of being the small fire-places of the natives.

There are kangaroos on the main land but none were caught; our efforts, both in hunting and fishing, were indeed very confined, and almost wholly unsuccessful. What has been said of the neck of land between the head of the port and Sleaford Mere may be taken as a description of the country in general; it is rocky and barren, but has a sufficient covering of grass, bushes, and small trees not to look desolate. The basis stone is granitic, with a super-stratum of calcareous rock, generally in loose pieces; but in some parts, as at Boston Island, the granite is found at the surface or immediately under the soil. Behind the beach, near our watering pits, the calcareous stone was so imperfectly formed that small shells and bits of coral might be picked out of it. This fact, with the saltness of Sleaford Mere and of a small lake on the south side of the port, accords with the coral found upon Bald Head and various other indications before mentioned to show that this part, at least, of Terra Australis cannot have emerged very many centuries from the sea, the salt imbibed by the rocks having not yet been all washed away by the rains. In the mountains behind Port Jackson, on the East Coast, at a vastly superior elevation, salt is formed in some places by the exhalation of the water which drips from the grit-stone cliffs.

Port Lincoln is certainly a fine harbour; and it is much to be regretted that it possesses no constant run of fresh water, unless it should be in Spalding Cove, which we did not examine. Our pits at the head of the port will, however, supply ships at all times; and though discoloured by whitish clay, the water has no pernicious quality, nor is it ill tasted. This and wood, which was easily procured, were all that we found of use to ships; and for the establishment of a colony, which the excellence of the port might seem to invite, the little fertility of the soil offers no inducement. The wood consists principally of the eucalyptus and casuarina.

Of the climate we had no reason to speak but in praise; nor were we incommoded by noxious insects. The range of the thermometer on board the ship was from 66 deg. to 78 deg. and that of the barometer from 29.4 to 30.20 inches. The weather was generally clouded, the winds light, coming from the eastward in the mornings and southward after noon. On shore the average height of the thermometer at noon was 76 deg..

The latitude of our tents at the head of Port Lincoln, from the mean of four meridian observations of the sun taken from an artificial horizon, was 34 deg. 48' 25" S.

The longitude, from thirty sets of distances of the sun and stars from the moon (see Table IV. of the Appendix to this volume), was 135 44 51" E.

These observations, being reduced to Cape Donington at the entrance of the port, will place it in latitude 34 deg. 44' south, longitude 135 561/2' east.

No corresponding observation of the solar eclipse appears to have been made under any known meridian, and from the nature of circumstances, the error of the moon's place could not be observed at Greenwich; the distances would therefore seem most worthy of confidence, and are adopted; but the longitude deduced from the eclipse, as recalculated by Mr. Crosley from Delambre's solar tables of 1806, and the new lunar tables of Burckhardt of 1812, differs but very little from them: it is 135 deg. 46' 8" east.

The rates of the time keepers, deduced from equal altitudes on, and between Feb. 27 and March 4, and their errors from mean Greenwich time, at noon there on the last day of observation, were found to be as under:

Earnshaw's No.543 slow Oh 30' 30.54" and losing 8.43" per day. 520 slow 1h 9' 7.72" and losing 18.82" per day.

Arnold's No. 176 altered its rate prodigiously on March 1st, and on the 2nd it stopped. His watch, No. 1736, varied in its rate from 7.81" to 1.90", so that it continued to be used only as an assistant.

The longitude given by the time keepers with the King-George's-Sound rates, on Feb. 27, the first day of observation at the tents, was by

No. 543, 136 deg. 15' 9.0" east. 520, 135 58 53.55 176, 136 1 23.95.

But by allowing a rate accelerating in arithmetic progression, from those at King George's Sound to what were obtained at this place, the mean longitude by the two first time keepers would be 135" 52' 16", or 7' 25" to the east of the lunar observations; which quantity, if the positions of the Sound and of Port Lincoln be correct, is the accumulation of their irregularity during fifty-seven days. In laying down the coasts and islands from the Sound up to Cape Wiles, the longitudes are taken from the time keepers according to the accelerated rates, corrected by an equal proportion of the error 7' 25" in fifty-seven days. From Cape Wiles to the head of Port Lincoln the survey is made from theodolite bearings and observed latitudes, without the aid of the time keepers.

The Dip of the south end of the needle, taken at the tents, was nearly the same as in K. George's Sound, being 64 deg. 27' Variation of the theodolite at the same place, 1 39 E. And the bearings from different stations in the port were conformable to this variation, except at Cape Donington, where, at a station on the north-western part, it appeared to be as much as 41/2 deg. east.

The observations for the variation on board the ship, at anchor in the lower part of the port, gave 2 deg. 23' west, when the ship's head was eastward, and 0 deg. 53' east, at south-south-east. According to the first, which were taken by lieutenant Flinders whilst the ship lay under Stamford Hill, the true variation should be 0 deg. 51' east; but by the second, observed by myself near Cape Donington, 2 deg. 7' east, or nearly the same as was found in Memory Cove. Were the mean taken, it would be 1 deg. 29', or 10' less than at the head of the port.

From Mr. Flinders' remarks upon the Tide, it appeared that the rise did not exceed three-and-half feet; and that, like Princess Royal Harbour, there was only one high water in twenty-four hours, which took place at night, about eleven hours after the moon's passage over the meridian, or one hour before it came to the lower meridian; yet at Thorny Passage, which is but a few leagues distant, there were two sets of tide in the day. This difference, in so short a space, appears extraordinary; but it may perhaps be accounted for by the direction of the entrance to the port, which is open to the north-east, from whence the ebb comes.

FRIDAY 5 MARCH 1802

On the 5th of March in the morning we ran down the harbour, and anchored under Cape Donington at the entrance of Spalding Cove in 7 fathoms, soft mud; the north-western extremity of the point bearing N. 16 deg. E., one mile, and partly hiding Point Bolingbroke. In the evening, lieutenant Fowler returned from his search. He had rowed and walked along the shore as far as Memory Cove, revisited Thistle's Island, and examined the shores of the isles in Thorny Passage, but could find neither any traces of our lost people nor fragments of the wreck. He had killed two or three kangaroos upon Thistle's Island.

SATURDAY 6 MARCH 1802

On the following morning I landed at Cape Donington to take some further bearings, and Mr. Evans, the acting master, was sent to sound across the entrance of Spalding Cove, and between Bicker Isles and Surfleet Point, where a small ship-passage was found. The boat was afterwards hoisted up; and our operations in Port Lincoln being completed, we prepared to follow the unknown coast to the northward, or as it might be found to trend.

CHAPTER VII.

Departure from Port Lincoln. Sir Joseph Banks' Group. Examination of the coast, northward. The ship found to be in a gulph. Anchorage near the head of the gulph. Boat expedition. Excursion to Mount Brown. Nautical observations. Departure from the head, and examination of the east side of the gulph. Extensive shoal. Point Pearce. Hardwicke Bay. Verification of the time keepers. General remarks on the gulph. Cape Spencer and the Althorpe Isles. New land discovered: Anchorage there. General remarks on Kangaroo Island. Nautical observations.

[SOUTH COAST. SPENCER'S GULPH.]

SATURDAY 6 MARCH 1802

At ten in the morning of March 6 we sailed out of Port Lincoln, and skirted along the east side of Boston Island and the entrance of Louth Bay. In the afternoon we passed within two miles of Point Bolingbroke, and at six in the evening came to an anchor in 10 fathoms, off the north side of Kirkby Island, which is the nearest to the point of any of Sir Joseph Banks' Group, and had been seen from Stamford Hill. A boat was lowered down to sound about the ship, and I went on shore to take bearings of the different islands; but they proved to be so numerous that the whole could not be completed before dark.

SUNDAY 7 MARCH 1802

I landed again in the morning with the botanical gentlemen, taking Arnold's watch and the necessary instruments for ascertaining the latitude and longitude. Twelve other isles of the group were counted, and three rocks above water; and it is possible that some others may exist to the eastward, beyond the boundary of my horizon, for it was not extensive. The largest island seen is four or five miles long, and is low and sandy, except at the north-east and south ends; it was called Reevesby Island, and names were applied in the chart to each of the other isles composing this group. The main coast extended northward from Point Bolingbroke, but the furthest part visible from the top of Kirkby Island was not more than four or five leagues distant; its bearing and those of the objects most important to the connection of the survey were these;

Main coast, furthest extreme, N. 13 deg. 40' E. Point Bolingbroke, N. 86 50 W. Stamford Hill, station on the north end, S. 45 17 W. Thistle's Island, centre of the high land, S. 5 37 W. Sibsey Island, extremes, S. 16 deg. 27' to 13 2 W. Stickney Island, S. 18 30 to 22 40 E. Spilsby Island, S. 39 30 to 48 25 E.

Granite forms the basis of Kirkby Island, as it does of the neighbouring parts of the continent before examined; and it is in the same manner covered with a stratum of calcareous rock. The island was destitute of wood, and almost of shrubs; and although there were marks of its having been frequented by geese, none of the birds were seen, nor any other species of animal except a few hair seals upon the shore. This description, unfavourable as it is, seemed applicable to all the group, with the exception of Reevesby and Spilsby Islands, which are higher and of greater extent, and probably somewhat more productive.

The latitude of the north side of Kirkby Island, observed from an artificial horizon, was 34 deg. 33' 1" south, and longitude by timekeepers, 136 deg. 10' 8" east. The variation from azimuths taken on board the ship at anchor, with the head south-by-west (magnetic as usual), was 2 deg. 40' east; which corrected to the meridian would be 2 deg. 2' east, the same nearly as was observed in Memory Cove and at the entrance of Port Lincoln; but an amplitude taken on shore with the surveying theodolite gave 3 deg. 57' east. This seemed extraordinary when, except at Cape Donington, no local attraction of importance had been found in the shores of Port Lincoln, where the stone is the same. It was, however, corroborated by the bearings; for that of Stamford Hill, with 3 deg. 57' allowed, differed only 2' from the back bearing with the allowance of 1 deg. 39'; which is a nearer coincidence than I have generally been able to obtain.

At two in the afternoon the anchor was weighed, and leaving most of Sir Joseph Banks' Group to the right, we steered northward, following the direction of the main land. The coast is very low and commonly sandy, from Boston Bay to the furthest extreme seen from Kirkby Island; but a ridge of hills, commencing at North-side Hill in Port Lincoln, runs a few miles behind it. In latitude 34 deg. 20' this ridge approaches the water side, and in its course northward keeps nearly parallel at the distance of two or three miles. It is moderately elevated, level, destitute of vegetation, and appeared to be granitic. At half-past six, when we hauled off for the night, the shore was five or six miles distant; the furthest part bore N. N. E. 1/2 E., and a bluff inland mountain was set at N. 71 deg. W., over the top of the front ridge.

The wind was moderate from the south-eastward; and at seven on the following morning [MONDAY 8 MARCH 1802], when the bluff inland mountain was bearing W. 2 deg. N., we resumed our north-eastern course along the shore; which was distant seven miles, and had not changed its appearance. Towards noon the water shoaled to 6 fathoms at three miles from a sandy beach; a lagoon was visible from the mast head, over the beach, and a small inlet, apparently connected with it, was perceived soon afterward. A few miles short of this the ridge of hills turns suddenly from the shore, and sweeps round at the back of the lagoon, into which the waters running off the ridge appeared to be received. The corner hill, where the direction of the ridge is changed, was called Elbow Hill; and since losing sight of the bluff inland mount, it was the first distinguishable mark which had presented itself for the survey; it lies in latitude 33 deg. 43' and longitude 136 deg. 42'. The coast there trends nearly east-by-north, and obliged us to haul close to the wind, in soundings of 7 to 9 fathoms.

We had then advanced more than twenty-five leagues to the north-north-east from Cape Catastrope; but although nothing had been seen to destroy the hopes formed from the tides and direction of the coast near that cape, they were yet considerably damped by the want of boldness in the shores and the shallowness of the water; neither of which seemed to belong to a channel capable of leading us into the Gulph of Carpentaria, nor yet to any very great distance inland.

At two o'clock the shore again took a northern direction, but it was still very low in front, and the depth did not materially increase. Land was presently distinguished on the starbord bow and beam; and before four, an elevated part, called Barn Hill from the form of its top, bore E. 4 deg. N. We continued to follow the line of the western shore, steering north-north-east and north; and the wind being at south, we hauled north-westward at six o'clock, intending to anchor under the shelter of the land. From 7 fathoms the depth diminished to 5, and quickly to seventeen feet; upon which we veered round, ran back into 5 fathoms, and came to an anchor three or four miles off the shore on a sandy bottom. The wind blew fresh, with rainy squalls; but a whole cable being veered out, we rode smoothly all night. The furthest land visible to the northward consisted of detached hummocks of which the highest was called Mount Young in honour of the admiral. Abreast of the ship the land rose gradually from the beach to the ridge of hills which still continued to run behind it; but at this place some back hills were visible over the ridge; and the highest of several hummocks upon the top, which served as a mark in the survey, was named Middle Mount. Observations for the time keepers were taken in the morning [TUESDAY 9 MARCH 1802] before getting under way, and the situation of the anchorage was found to be in

Longitude, 137 deg. 271/2' Mount Young bore, N. 11 E. Middle Mount, N. 621/2 W. Low western shore, extreme, S. 21 W. High eastern land, about the middle, N. 71 E.

Having obtained the observations, we steered for the outermost of the northern hummocks, with soundings gradually increasing to 12 fathoms; but shoaling on a sudden to 7, upon coral, we hauled to the wind and tacked instantly; finding, however, that the depth did not further decrease, I let the ship go entirely round, and continued the former north-eastern course, with soundings from 7 to 9 fathoms.

At noon, the furthest hummock seen from the anchorage was distant four or five miles; it stands on a projection of low sandy land, and beyond it was another similar projection to which I gave the name of Point Lowly. This was the furthest visible part of the western shore; but the eastern land there approached within seven or eight miles, and extended northward, past it, in a chain of rugged mountains, at the further end of which was a remarkable peak. Our situation and bearings at this time were as follow:

Latitude, observed to the north and south, 33 deg. 5' 14" Longitude by time keepers, 137 41 1/3 Middle Mount, S. 75 W. Mount Young, S. 87 W. Point Lowly, the extreme, N. 43 E. High peak on the eastern land, N. 25 E.

Our prospect of a channel or strait, cutting off some considerable portion of Terra Australis, was lost, for it now appeared that the ship was entered into a gulph; but the width of the opening round Point Lowly left us a consolatory hope that it would terminate in a river of some importance. In steering for the point we came into 4 fathoms, but on hauling to the eastward found 8, although a dry sand-bank was seen in that direction. The depth afterwards diminished to 6, on which the course for Point Lowly was resumed; and we passed it at the distance of a mile and a half, in 9 fathoms water. Here the gulph was found to take a river-like form, but the eastern half of it was occupied by a dry, sandy spit and shoal water. We continued to steer upwards, before the wind; but as the width contracted rapidly, and there was much shoal water, it was under very easy sail, and with an anchor ready to be let go. At four o'clock, in attempting to steer close over to the western side, we came suddenly into 21/2 fathoms; the ship was instantly veered to the eastward, and on the water deepening to 7, we let go the anchor and veered out a whole cable; for the wind blew a fresh gale right up the gulph, and between S. 4 deg. W. and 30 deg. E. there was no shelter from the land. At sunset a second anchor was dropped under foot.

We had reached near five leagues above Point Lowly, at the entrance of the narrow part of the gulph; but the shores were low on both sides, and abreast of the ship not so much as four miles asunder. At the back of the eastern shore was the ridge of mountains before mentioned, of which Mr. Westall made the sketch given in the Atlas (Plate XVII. View 10.); and the highest peak toward their northern extremity, afterwards called Mount Brown, bore N. 32 deg. E. On the western side, upwards, there was moderately high, flat-topped land, whose eastern bluff bore N. 36 deg. W., about three leagues, and there the head of the gulph had the appearance of terminating; but as the tide ran one mile an hour past the ship, we still flattered ourselves with the prospect of a longer course, and that it would end in a fresh-water river.

WEDNESDAY 10 MARCH 1802

Early on the following morning, Messrs. Brown, Bauer and Westall, with attendants, set off upon an excursion to the eastern mountains, intending, if possible, to ascend to the top of Mount Brown; and I went away in a cutter, accompanied by the surgeon, to explore the head of the gulph, taking with me Arnold's pocket time-keeper. After crossing the middle shoal, upon which we had 21/2 fathoms in the ship, the water deepened to 10, but afterwards diminished to 2, on approaching the mangroves of the western side. Keeping then upwards, I had from 7 to 10 fathoms in the mid-channel, but found shoal water extending a mile, and sometimes more, from the shore and no possibility of landing until we came near the broad, flat-topped hill. From the eastern bluff of this hill, Mount Brown bore N. 62 deg. 20' E., and Mount Arden, a peak nearly at the furthest extreme of the ridge, N. 18 deg. 40' E.; and the inlet was seen to run in a serpentine form to the northward, between low banks covered with mangroves. After taking the bearings we returned to the boat and pursued our course upward along the western shore, having from 4 to 7 fathoms past the bluff; but the inlet was there less than two miles wide, and a league further on it was contracted to one mile, half of which, besides, was occupied by mud flats. These banks were frequented by ducks and other water fowl; and some time being occupied in chasing them, our distance above the ship was not so much as five leagues in a straight line, when the setting sun reminded us of looking out for a place of rest. A landing was effected with some difficulty amongst the mangroves on the eastern shore; and from a small eminence of red earth I set the ship's mast heads at S. 14 deg. E., and Mount Brown N. 85 deg. E.

THURSDAY 11 MARCH 1802

Next morning we continued the examination upwards, carrying 4, 3, and 2 fathoms in mid-channel; but at ten o'clock our oars touched the mud on each side, and it was not possible to proceed further. I then landed and took observations in an artificial horizon for the time-keeper, which gave 4' 34" of longitude to the west of the ship, or only two seconds more than was deduced from the bearings. Mount Brown bore S. 72 deg. E., Mount Arden N. 26 deg. E., and my last station on the eminence of red earth S. 6 deg. E. The inlet wholly terminated at one mile and a half to the N. 16 deg. W.

It seemed remarkable, and was very mortifying, to find the water at the head of the gulph as salt nearly as at the ship; nevertheless it was evident that much fresh water was thrown into it in wet seasons, especially from the eastern mountains. The summits of the ridge lie from three to four leagues back from the water-side, but the greater part of that space seemed to be low, marshy land. To the northward no hill was visible, and to the westward but one small elevation of flat-topped land; all else in those directions was mangroves and salt swamps, and they seemed to be very extensive.

Two miles below the place where the observations for the time-keeper were taken was a small cliff of reddish clay on the western shore; and being near it on our return, when the sun was approaching the meridian, I landed to observe the latitude. It was 32 deg. 27' 56" south, so that the termination of the gulph may be called in 32 deg. 241/2' without making a greater error than half a mile. Mount Brown bore from thence S. 801/2 deg. E., and its latitude will therefore be 32 deg. 301/4' south; the longitude deduced from bearings and the time-keepers on board is 138 deg. 03/4' east.

Our return to the ship was a good deal retarded by going after the black swans and ducks amongst the flats. The swans were all able to fly, and would not allow themselves to be approached; but some ducks of two or three different species were shot, and also several sea pies or red bills. Another set of bearings was taken on the western shore, and at ten in the evening we reached the ship, where Mr. Brown and his party had not been long arrived. The ascent of Mount Brown had proved to be very difficult, besides having to walk fifteen miles on a winding course before reaching the foot; by perseverance, however, they gained the top at five on the first evening, but were reduced to passing the night without water; nor was any found until they had descended some distance on the following day. The view from the top of Mount Brown was very extensive, its elevation being not less than three thousand feet; but neither rivers nor lakes could be perceived, nor anything of the sea to the south-eastward. In almost every direction the eye traversed over an uninterruptedly flat, woody country; the sole exceptions being the ridge of mountains extending north and south, and the water of the gulph to the south-westward.

Mr. Brown found the stone of this ridge of craggy mountains to be argillaceous, similar to that of the flat-topped land where I had taken bearings on the west side of the inlet. It is reddish, smooth, close-grained, and rather heavy. Bushes and some small trees grown in the hollows of the rising hills; and between their feet and the mangrove swamps near the water there was some tolerably good though shallow soil.

We had seen fires upon the eastern shore opposite to Point Lowly on first entering the head of the gulph, and wherever I had landed there were traces of natives; Mr. Brown found them even to a considerable height up the side of the mountain; and it should therefore seem that the country here is as well inhabited as most parts of Terra Australis, but we had not the good fortune to meet with any of the people.

The observations taken by lieutenant Flinders fixed the position of the ship in latitude 32 deg. 44' 41" south, and longitude by the time keepers 137 deg. 49' 56" east. Twelve sets of distances of the sun and moon gave 137 deg. 50' 9"; but these being all on one side, the time keepers are preferred. Azimuths observed from the binnacle, when the ship's head was between S. by E. and S. S. E., gave 0 deg. 42' east, or 1 deg. 37' east, nearly, for the true variation; and there was no particular attraction upon the theodolite at any of my stations on shore.

We had two flood tides in the day setting past the ship, and they ran at the strongest one mile and a half per hour; the rise appeared to be from six to eight feet, and high water to take place at two hours and a half after the moon passed the meridian. Except in the time of high water, which is considerably later than at Thorny Passage, the tides at the head have a near affinity to those at the entrance of the gulph; whence the great differences at Port Lincoln, intermediately situate, become so much the more extraordinary.

SATURDAY 13 MARCH 1802

Nothing of particular interest having presented itself to detain us at the head of the gulph, we got under way in the morning of the 13th, having a light breeze from the north-westward. The western shore had been followed in going up, and for that reason I proposed to keep close to the east side in returning; but before eight o'clock the water shoaled suddenly from 4 to 2 fathoms, and the ship hung upon a mud bank covered with grass, two or three miles from the shore. A kedge anchor was carried out astern; and in half an hour we again made sail downward, in soundings from 5 to 10 fathoms near the edge of the shoal.

At noon, latitude observed to the N. and S. 32 deg. 57' 6" Mount Brown bore N. 9 30 E. Pt. Lowly south extreme dist. 7 miles, S. 79 0 W.

The depth was then 7 fathoms; but there were banks ahead, extending to a great distance from the eastern shore, and in steering westward to pass round them, we had 31/2 fathoms for the least water. It afterwards deepened to 7, and we again steered southward, but were not able to get near the land; on the contrary, the shallow water forced us further off as we proceeded. The wind was at west-southwest in the evening; and this not permitting us to lie along the edge of the bank, we came to an anchor in 7 fathoms, soft bottom; being then above four leagues from the eastern low shore, although there was only 31/2 fathoms at less than a mile nearer in.

Mount Brown bore N. 21 deg. E. Barn Hill, S. 43 E. Mount Young, N. 66 W.

SUNDAY 14 MARCH 1802

In the morning we followed the line of the great eastern shoal, and its direction permitted us to approach nearer to the land, with soundings between 8 and 4 fathoms. A little before noon, after running half an hour in less than 4 fathoms and getting within about six miles of the land, we were obliged to tack and stretch off, the wind having veered to the south-west. Our situation twenty minutes afterward, was in

Latitude, observed to the north and south, 33 deg. 23' 49" Longitude by time keepers, 137 47 Mount Young bore N. 38 W. Middle Mount, west side of the gulph, N. 66 W. Barn Hill, on the east side, S. 60 E.

We beat to windward all the afternoon, and at sunset anchored in 31/2 fathoms near the edge of the great bank and seven or eight miles from the land. The shore was low and sandy, but there was a ridge of hills behind it nearly similar to that on the west side of the gulph. Barn Hill lies at the back of this ridge and about twelve miles from the water; and towards the southern end of the ridge was another hill, also some distance inland, of which I shall have occasion to speak hereafter. A middle mount on the west side of the gulph, higher and further back than the one before set, was in sight from this anchorage; and the bearings taken were these:

Middle back mount, N. 61 deg. W. Barn Hill on the east side, S. 74 E. A more southern hill, S. 38 E.

Mount Br own was no longer visible; but it had been seen this afternoon at the distance of fifty-eight miles, and was sufficiently above the horizon to have been distinguished some miles further from a ship's deck in a perfectly clear day.

MONDAY 15 MARCH 1802

On the morning of the 15th the wind had shifted to south-east; and the great bank then trending south-westward, we followed it with variable soundings between 3 and 10 fathoms. At ten o'clock the water had deepened to 15; and being then nearer to the west than to the east side of the gulph, and the wind having come more ahead, we tacked to the east-south-east; but in fifty minutes were obliged to steer westward again, having fallen into 3 fathoms on the edge of the bank. This is the narrowest part of the gulph below Point Lowly, the two shores being scarcely more than twenty miles asunder; and of this space, the great eastern bank, if the part where we last had 3 fathoms be connected with it, occupies about eleven, and the shallow water of the west side one or two miles. The soundings we had in stretching westward across the deep channel were, from the shoal, 3, 5, 7, 10, 12, 12, 12, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 7, 6, 5 fathoms, at nearly equal distances asunder, and the last at six miles from the western land.

After sounding across the channel we stood back, lying up south-east, and reached within five miles of the eastern shore, where the anchor was dropped in 41/2 fathoms; Barn Hill bearing N. 69 deg. E., and a cliffy projection, named Point Riley after the gentleman of that name in the Admiralty, S. 14 deg. W., two or three leagues. This point was the furthest visible part of the eastern shore; and so low and uniform had the coast been from the head of the gulph, that this was the first mark I had found upon it for the survey. The great eastern bank, which we had already followed about sixty miles, seemed to terminate at Point Riley; and from thence southward the gulph greatly enlarges its breadth. The situation of the point is about 33 deg. 53' south and 137 deg. 30' E.

TUESDAY 16 MARCH 1802

We got under way at six in the morning, and the wind being from the south-eastward made a good stretch along the coast until noon. A patch of breakers then lay five miles to the south-east; but the land was ten miles distant, and some white sandy cliffs, four or five leagues from Point Riley, bore S. 52 deg. E. The intermediate coast, as also that which extends several leagues to the north of the point, is low and sandy; but at a few miles back it rises to a level land of moderate elevation, and is not ill clothed with small trees. In the afternoon we had to beat against a southern wind; and the coast in that part being too open for anchorage, this was continued all night and the next morning [WEDNESDAY 17 MARCH 1802]; but with so little profit that the same land was still in sight at noon, and our situation found to be as follows

Latitude, observed to the north and south, 34 deg. 15' 24" Longitude by time keepers, 137 241/2 North extreme near the sandy cliffs, dist. 6 miles, N. 19 E. Low red cliffs, south end dist. 6 or 7 miles, S. 54 E.

At six in the evening, the reddish cliffs were brought to bear N. 44 deg. E., and a long point, or an island lying off a point, bore S. 43 deg. W. two leagues. Our distance from a cliffy islet, close under the shore, was two or three miles, but the breakers from it were only half a mile off, and the depth was 4 fathoms.

THURSDAY 18 MARCH 1802

On the 18th, in the morning, we fetched to windward of the island-like point, to which I gave the name of Point Pearce, in compliment to Mr. Pearce of the Admiralty. Its latitude is 34 deg. 281/2' south and longitude 137 deg. 21' east. On the south side of this point or island, for I could not fully ascertain its connection, the shore falls back seven or eight miles to the east, and then trends southward. It is low and very sandy, but rises gradually to a level country of the same description as that near Point Riley. At sunset the land was seen as far as south-west-by-south; and the wind favouring us a little, we made a stretch for it. A fire upon the shore served as a mark to steer by; and on approaching it at ten o'clock, the anchor was let go in 6 fathoms, upon a bottom of coarse sand and small stones, the weather being fine, and wind moderate off the land.

The howling of dogs was heard during the night, and at daylight [FRIDAY 19 MARCH 1802] the shore was found to be distant two or three miles, and was woody, rising land, but not of much elevation. A remarkable point, which I named Corny Point, bearing S 73 deg. W. three miles, was the furthest land visible to the westward; its latitude, from meridian observations of Jupiter and the moon, is 34 deg. 52' South, and longitude from the time-keepers 137 deg. 61/2' east. Between this point and Point Pearce, twenty-eight miles to the north-north-east, is a large bay, well sheltered from all southern winds, and none others seem to blow with much strength here. The land trends eastward about seven leagues, from Corny Point to the head of the bay; but what the depth of water may be there, or whether any fresh stream fall into it, I am not able to state; the land, however, was better wooded, and had a more fertile appearance than any before seen in the neighbourhood. I called this HARDWICKE BAY, in honour of the noble earl of that title.

Several observations for the variation of the compass had been taken whilst beating in the neighbourhood of Point Pearce. On its north side, eight miles from the shore, an amplitude with the ship's head S. W. by S. gave 4 deg. 38' east; at E. by N., when fourteen miles off, another gave 1 deg. 13' east; but azimuths three or four miles nearer in, 0 deg. 10' west; and at S. E., when six miles off, 0 deg. 35' west. On the south side of Point Pearce, the head being S. S. W., and the land distant thirteen miles, an amplitude gave 3 deg. 15' east. These different observations, which were all taken with the surveying compass, being corrected upon the principles and by the proportion explained in the Appendix No. II. to the second volume, will be respectively, 2 deg. 51', 4 deg. 21' furthest from the land, 2 deg. 58', 1 deg. 41' nearest the land, and 2 deg. 1' east. The mean is 2 deg. 46' east; which may be taken for the true variation at three or four leagues off Point Pearce in 1802; but close in with the shore, I suspect it was less by 1 deg., or perhaps 2 deg..

Having remained at anchor until the sun was high enough to admit of observations for the time keepers, we got under way at half past seven o'clock; and the coast round Corny Point being found to trend S. 27 deg. W., nearly in the wind's eye, I stretched westward across the gulph towards Thistle's Island, in order to compare the time keepers with the longitudes of places before settled. Our latitude at noon, observed on both sides, was 34 deg. 50' 10"; Spilsby Island, the south-eastern most of Sir Joseph Banks' Group, was seen bearing N. 56 deg. W., and the eastern bluff of Wedge Island, the central and largest of Gambier's Isles, bore S. 161/2 deg. W. Gambier's Isles, four in number besides two peaked rocks, had been first seen from the high land behind Memory Cove. They lie nearly in the centre of the entrance to the gulph; and the latitude of Wedge Island is 35 deg.11' south, and longitude 136 deg. 29' east. Soon after four in the afternoon, I had the following bearings:

Wedge Island, highest part, S. 211/2 deg. E. Thistle's Island, highest part, S. 29 W. C. Catastrophe, former station on the S. E. point, S. 531/2 W. Stamford Hill, former station at the top, N. 86 W. Sibsey Island, centre, N. 33 W. Stickney Island, N. 11 W. Spilsby Island, N. 171/2 E.

The longitude deduced from these bearings was 30 deg. 22" east, from the head of Port Lincoln, and that resulting from observations for the time keepers taken in the same place, was 30 deg. 53"; showing a difference of no more than 0' 31" to the east, since quitting the port. This quantity in a sea observation is so small and uncertain, that I considered the time keepers to have gone correctly from March 4, when the last observations in Port Lincoln had been made, up to this time; and that the lunar observations taken in the interval might be reduced back to the head of the port by their means, and used to fix its longitude without any further correction.

Besides the bearings above given, there was a rocky islet four miles distant in the S. 78 deg. W.; part of a ledge of low rocks which extended towards the north end of Thistle's Island, and may possibly be connected with the rock set from thence. This ledge is marked dangerous, in the particular chart.

Having satisfactorily ascertained the going of the time keepers, we tacked and stretched back for the coast on the east side of the gulph; but did not get sight of it before dark. At six on the following morning [SATURDAY 20 MARCH 1802],

Corny Point, dist. 5 or 6 leagues, bore N. 631/2 deg. E. A cliffy head, distant 10 miles, S. 85 E. Furthest extreme, a cliffy point, S. 21 E. Wedge Island, eastern bluff, S. 49 W. Thistle's Island, highest part, West.

An amplitude taken when the ship's head was south-by-east, gave variation 1 deg. 25' east, and azimuths at south-south-east, 1 deg. 10': the mean, reduced to the meridian, is 2 deg. 13' east, or a few minutes more than had been found on the west side of the gulph, and half a degree less than off Point Pearce.

The tide appeared to set us along the shore to the southward, although, from what was observed at Thistle's Island, it should have been the time of flood. With its assistance, and the wind having become less unfavourable, we were enabled to make a course for the furthest land. This proved to be a cape, composed of three cliffy points, near the northern part of which lay a cluster of black rocks. The southernmost cliff bore at noon E. 41/2 deg. S. six or seven miles, and beyond it there was no main coast visible; but three small islands, with several rocks and a reef, were seen to lie as far as five miles to the southward, out from the cape.

Although the continuation of the main coast was not to be distinguished beyond the cape, yet there was land in sight at the distance of seven or eight leagues, from about south to S. 181/2 deg. W. Whether this land were an island or a part of the continent, and the wide opening to the eastward a strait or a new inlet, was uncertain; but in either case, the investigation of the gulph was terminated; and in honour of the respectable nobleman who presided at the Board of Admiralty when the voyage was planned and ship put into commission, I named it SPENCER'S GULPH. The cliffy-pointed cape which forms the east side of the entrance, and lies in 35 deg. 18' south and 136 deg. 55' east, was named CAPE SPENCER; and the three isles lying off it, with their rocks, Althorp Isles.

A line drawn from the nearest part of Cape Catastrophe to Cape Spencer will be forty-eight miles long, and so much is the entrance of the gulph in width. Gambier's Isles lie not far from the middle of the line; and if we measure upward from them, the gulph will be found, without regard to the small windings, to extend one hundred and eighty-five miles into the interior of the country. For the general exactness of its form in the chart I can answer with tolerable confidence, having seen all that is laid down, and, as usual, taken every angle which enters into the construction. Throughout the whole extent of the shores the water line was almost every where distinguished; the only exceptions being small portions at the head of Hardwicke and Louth Bays, of a bight near Point Lowly, and of the low land at the back of the great Eastern Shoal.

At noon, when off Cape Spencer, the wind became variable and light, with very hazy, cloudy weather; and the mercury in my marine barometer had fallen two-tenths of an inch. At six in the evening a breeze sprung up at west-north-west; and as I expected a gale would come on, and that as usual it would veer to the south-west, we ceased to follow the coast beyond Cape Spencer, and steered for the land seen in the southern quarter. The Althorp Isles were passed at eight o'clock, at the distance of eight or nine miles; and the wind being fresh at west, we made short trips during the night between the two lands, not knowing what might be in the space to leeward. At daylight [SUNDAY 21 MARCH 1802] the ship was nearly in mid-channel, between the southern land and Cape Spencer, and nothing was seen to the eastward. It then blew a fresh gale at south-west, with much sea running; we stretched south-west under close-reefed top-sails, to get under the lee of the southern land; and at eight o'clock, when the largest Althorp Isle bore N. 32 deg. W., it was distant six or seven miles to the south, and extended from S. 61 deg. W. to 79 deg. E. as far as the eye could reach. It was rather high and cliffy; but there was nothing by which to judge of its connection with the main.

At ten o'clock we were close under the land; and finding the water tolerably smooth, had shortened sail with the intention of anchoring near a small, sandy beach; but the situation proving to be too much exposed, we steered eastward along the shore under two close-reefed topsails and fore-sail, the wind blowing strong in squalls from the south-west. The furthest land seen ahead at noon was a projecting point, lower than the other cliffs; it bore E. 7 deg. S., four leagues, and and lies in 35 deg. 33' south and 137 deg. 41' east. It was named Point Marsden, in compliment to the second secretary of the Admiralty; and beyond it the coast was found to trend southward into a large bay containing three coves, any one of which promised good shelter from the gale. This was called NEPEAN BAY. in compliment to the first secretary (now Sir Evan Nepean, Bart.), and we hauled up for it; but the strength of the wind was such that a headland forming the east side of the bay was fetched with difficulty. At six in the evening we came to anchor in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, within a mile of the shore; the east extreme bearing S. 76 deg. E., and the land near Point Marsden, on the west side of Nepean Bay, N. 61 deg. W., six leagues. A piece of high land, seemingly unconnected, bore from N. 45 deg. to 78 deg. E.; but no land could be distinguished to the northward.

Neither smokes nor other marks of inhabitants had as yet been perceived upon the southern land, although we had passed along seventy miles of its coast. It was too late to go on shore this evening; but every glass in the ship was pointed there, to see what could be discovered. Several black lumps, like rocks, were pretended to have been seen in motion by some of the young gentlemen, which caused the force of their imaginations to be much admired; next morning [MONDAY 22 MARCH 1802], however, on going toward the shore, a number of dark-brown kangaroos were seen feeding upon a grass-plat by the side of the wood and our landing gave them no disturbance. I had with me a double-barrelled gun, fitted with a bayonet, and the gentlemen my companions had muskets. It would be difficult to guess how many kangaroos were seen; but I killed ten, and the rest of the party made up the number to thirty-one, taken on board in the course of the day; the least of them weighing sixty-nine, and the largest one hundred and twenty-five pounds. These kangaroos had much resemblance to the large species found in the forest lands of New South Wales, except that their colour was darker, and they were not wholly destitute of fat.

After this butchery, for the poor animals suffered themselves to be shot in the eyes with small shot, and in some cases to be knocked on the head with sticks, I scrambled with difficulty through the brushwood, and over fallen trees, to reach the higher land with the surveying instruments; but the thickness and height of the wood prevented anything else from being distinguished. There was little doubt, however, that this extensive piece of land was separated from the continent; for the extraordinary tameness of the kangaroos and the presence of seals upon the shore concurred with the absence of all traces of men to show that it was not inhabited.

[SOUTH COAST. KANGAROO ISLAND.]

The whole ship's company was employed this afternoon in skinning and cleaning the kangaroos; and a delightful regale they afforded, after four months' privation from almost any fresh provisions. Half a hundred weight of heads, forequarters and tails were stewed down into soup for dinner on this and the succeeding days; and as much steaks given, moreover, to both officers and men as they could consume by day and by night. In gratitude for so seasonable a supply I named this southern land KANGAROO ISLAND.

TUESDAY 23 MARCH 1802

Next day was employed in shifting the topmasts on account of some rents found in the heels. The scientific gentlemen landed again to examine the natural productions of the island, and in the evening eleven more kangaroos were brought on board; but most of these were smaller, and seemed to be of a different species to those of the preceding day. Some of the party saw several large running birds; which, according to their description, seemed to have been the emu or cassowary.

Not being able to obtain a distinct view from any elevated situation, I took a set of angles from a small projection near the ship, named Kangaroo Head; but nothing could be seen to the north, and the sole bearing of importance, more than had been taken on board, was that of a high hill at the extremity of the apparently unconnected land to the eastward: it bore N. 39 deg. 10' E., and was named Mount Lofty. The nearest part of that land was a low point bearing N. 60 deg. E. nine or ten miles; but the land immediately at the back was high, and its northern and southern extremes were cliffy. I named it CAPE JERVIS, and it was afterwards sketched by Mr. Westall. (Atlas Plate XVII. View 12.)

All the cliffs of Kangaroo Island seen to the west of the anchorage had the appearance of being calcareous, and the loose stones scattered over the surface of Kangaroo Head and the vicinity were of that substance; but the basis in this part seemed to be a brown slate, lying in strata nearly horizontal, and laminae of quartz were sometimes seen in the interstices. In some places the slate was split into pieces of a foot long, or more, like iron bars, and had a shining, ore-like appearance; and the strata were then further from the horizontal line than I observed them to be elsewhere.

A thick wood covered almost all that part of the island visible from the ship; but the trees in a vegetating state were not equal in size to the generality of those lying on the ground, nor to the dead trees standing upright. Those on the ground were so abundant that in ascending the higher land a considerable part of the walk was made upon them. They lay in all directions, and were nearly of the same size and in the same progress towards decay; from whence it would seem that they had not fallen from age, nor yet been thrown down in a gale of wind. Some general conflagration, and there were marks apparently of fire on many of them, is perhaps the sole cause which can be reasonably assigned; but whence came the woods on fire? That there were no inhabitants upon the island, and that the natives of the continent did not visit it, was demonstrated, if not by the want of all signs of such visit, yet by the tameness of the kangaroo, an animal which, on the continent, resembles the wild deer in timidity. Perhaps lightning might have been the cause, or possibly the friction of two dead trees in a strong wind; but it would be somewhat extraordinary that the same thing should have happened at Thistle's Island, Boston Island and at this place, and apparently about the same time. Can this part of Terra Australis have been visited before, unknown to the world? The French navigator, La Perouse, was ordered to explore it, but there seems little probability that he ever passed Torres' Strait.

Some judgment may be formed of the epoch when these conflagrations happened from the magnitude of the growing trees; for they must have sprung up since that period. They were a species of eucalyptus, and being less than the fallen trees, had most probably not arrived at maturity; but the wood is hard and solid, and it may thence be supposed to grow slowly. With these considerations I should be inclined to fix the period at not less than ten, nor more than twenty years before our arrival. This brings us back to La Perouse. He was in Botany Bay in the beginning of 1788; and if he did pass through Torres' Strait, and come round to this coast, as was his intention, it would probably be about the middle or latter end of that year, or between thirteen and fourteen years before the Investigator. My opinion is not favourable to this conjecture; but I have furnished all the data to enable the reader to form his own judgment upon the cause which might have prostrated the woods of these islands.

The soil of that part of Kangaroo Island examined by us was judged to be much superior to any before seen, either upon the south coast of the continent or upon the islands near it, with the exception of some portions behind the harbours of King George's Sound. The depth of the soil was not particularly ascertained; but from the thickness of the wood it cannot be very shallow. Some sand is mixed with the vegetable earth, but not in any great proportion; and I thought the soil superior to some of the land cultivated at Port Jackson, and to much of that in our stony counties in England.

Never perhaps had the dominion possessed here by the kangaroo been invaded before this time. The seal shared with it upon the shores, but they seemed to dwell amicably together. It not unfrequently happened that the report of a gun fired at a kangaroo near the beach brought out two or three bellowing seals from under bushes considerably further from the water-side. The seal, indeed, seemed to be much the most discerning animal of the two; for its actions bespoke a knowledge of our not being kangaroos, whereas the kangaroo not unfrequently appeared to consider us to be seals.

The latitude of the landing place near Kangaroo Head from an observation in the artificial horizon, was 35 deg. 43' 0" south; and the longitude of our anchorage by timekeepers, 137 deg. 58' 31" east. This last, being deduced from observations only four days after the proof had of the time keepers having gone correctly since leaving Port Lincoln, should be as accurate, or very nearly so, as the longitude of that port.

The variation observed from two compasses on board, with the head south-westward, was 6 deg. 31' east; but when the ship swung to a tide coming from east-north-east, the change in the bearings of different objects showed the variation to be about 4 deg. less. The true variation I deduce to be 4 deg. 13' east; which is an increase upon what was observed on the west side of Cape Spencer, of 2 deg.; although the distance be no more than twenty-four leagues, and the previous increase from Cape Catastrophe had been almost nothing. It seems probable that the existence of magnetic bodies in the land to the north-westward, and perhaps also in Kangaroo Island and Cape Jervis, was the cause of this change in the direction of the needle.

From appearances on the shore, I judged the rise of tide to be about six feet. The flood came from the east-north-east, twice in the day, and by the swinging of the ship, ceased at two hours and a half after the moon's passage; but the time of high water was afterwards found to be later by one hour and a half.

CHAPTER VIII.

Departure from Kangaroo Island. Examination of the main coast, from Cape Spencer eastward. The Investigator's Strait. A new gulph discovered. Anchorage at, and examination of the head. Remarks on the surrounding land. Return down the gulph. Troubridge Shoal. Yorke's Peninsula. Return to Kangaroo Island. Boat expedition to Pelican Lagoon. Astronomical observations. Kangaroo Island quitted. Back-stairs Passage. The coast from Cape Jervis, eastward. Meeting, and communication with Le Geographe. Remarks upon the French discoveries on the South Coast.

[SOUTH COAST. INVESTIGATOR'S STRAIT.]

WEDNESDAY 24 MARCH 1802

March 24 in the morning, we got under way from Kangaroo Island in order to take up the examination of the main coast at Cape Spencer, where it had been quitted in the evening of the 20th, when the late gale commenced. The wind had continued to blow fresh from the southward, but had now moderated, and was at south-west. We steered north-westward from ten o'clock till six in the evening, and then had sight of land extending from N. 62 deg. W. to a low part terminating at N. 17 deg. E. distant three leagues. A hummock upon this low part was named Troubridge Hill, and at first it makes like an island. Nothing was visible to the eastward of the low land; whence I judged there to be another inlet or a strait between it and Cape Jervis. Soon after dusk the wind veered to south-by-east, on which we steered south-westward, and continued the same course until four in the morning [THURSDAY 25 MARCH 1802]; when the largest Althorp Isle being seen to the north-west, the ship was hove to, with her head eastward; and at daylight, before making sail, the following bearings were taken of the lands to the northward, but no part of Kangaroo Island was visible.

Wedge I. (of Gambier's Isles), highest part, N. 641/2 deg. W. Althorpe Isle, largest, distant 6 miles, N. 83 deg. to 78 W. Cape Spencer, south point, N. 44 W. Furthest extreme of the northern land, N. 44 E.

The wind fixed itself at south-east, and it took us two days to work back against it as far as Troubridge Hill [SATURDAY 27 MARCH 1802]. The shore is generally low and sandy; but with the exception of one very low point, it may be approached within two miles. Many tacks were made in these two days from the northern land across to Kangaroo Island, and gave opportunities of sounding the intermediate strait. From 45 fathoms, in the middle of the western entrance, the depth diminished quickly to 25, then more slowly to 20 after which it is irregular between 12 and 20 fathoms, as far as the mouth of the second inlet. Of the two sides, that of Kangaroo Island is much the deepest; but there is no danger in any part to prevent a ship passing through the strait with perfect confidence, and the average width is twenty-three miles. It was named INVESTIGATOR'S STRAIT, after the ship. The bottom is mostly broken shells, mixed with sand, gravel or coral, and appeared to hold well.

From two amplitudes taken to the north-north-west of Point Marsden, and near the middle of the strait, the variation was 1 deg. 49' east; the ship's head being south-south-east in one case, and north-east-by-north in the other. The true variation deduced from these, is 3 deg. 20' east; which is 1 deg. 7' greater than at Cape Spencer, and 0 deg. 53' less than at the anchorage near Kangaroo Head.

At noon of the 27th, the eastern wind died away; and we dropped a kedge anchor in 15 fathoms, about two miles from Point Marsden, where the following observations and bearings were taken.

Latitude, observed to the north, 35 deg. 31' 38" Longitude by time keepers, 137 42 Kangaroo I., furthest western extreme, S. 82 W. do., Point Marsden, west side, S. 26 W. do., innermost head up Nepean Bay, S. 27 E. do., furthest eastern extreme, S. 571/2 E. Cape Jervis, south extreme, S. 73 E.

No set of tide was observable until three o'clock, when it made gently to the north-east, towards the new inlet; and a breeze springing up at south-east soon afterward, we pursued the same course, and were well within the entrance at eight o'clock. Fires were seen ahead; but the soundings being regular, and increasing, we kept on until midnight; when the land was seen also, and we stood back for two hours. At daylight [SUNDAY 28 MARCH 1802] I recognised Mount Lofty, upon the highest part of the ridge of mountains which, from Cape Jervis, extends northward behind the eastern shore of the inlet. The nearest part of the coast was distant three leagues, mostly low, and composed of sand and rock, with a few small trees scattered over it; but at a few miles inland, where the back mountains rise, the country was well clothed with forest timber, and had a fertile appearance. The fires bespoke this to be a part of the continent.

Light airs and calms prevailed during the morning, and the ship had very little way until noon, when a breeze sprung up at south-west. Our situation was then in

Latitude, observed to the north and south, 35 deg. 4' 13" Longitude by time keepers, 138 23 Mount Lofty bore N. 71 E. Southern extreme toward Cape Jervis, S. 17 W. Northern extreme, trees above the water, N. 32 E.

The situation of Mount Lofty was found from hence and from some other cross bearings, to be 34 deg. 59' south and 138 deg. 42' east. No land was visible so far to the north as where the trees appeared above the horizon, which showed the coast to be very low, and our soundings were fast decreasing. From noon to six o'clock we ran thirty miles to the northward, skirting a sandy shore at the distance of five, and thence to eight miles; the depth was then 5 fathoms, and we dropped the anchor upon a bottom of sand, mixed with pieces of dead coral.

MONDAY 29 MARCH 1802

In the morning, land was seen to the westward, and also a hummocky mountain, capped with clouds, apparently near the head of the inlet. Azimuths with the surveying compass, taken when the ship's head was south-eastward, gave 2 deg. 27' east variation; but an amplitude taken at the same anchorage on the preceding evening, when the head was south-by-west, showed 5 deg. 22' east. These corrected to the meridian, will be severally 4 deg. 43' and 4 deg. 44' east; or half a degree more than was observed near Kangaroo Head. The observations at this anchorage and the bearings taken were as follow:

Latitude observed from the moon, 34 deg. 36' S. Longitude by time keepers, 138 18 E. Mount Lofty, S. 411/2 deg. E. Nearest shore, distant 7 miles, N. E. to N. Hummock mount, highest top, N. 121/2 W. Western land, furthest extremes, N. 51 deg. to S. 65 W.

There being almost no wind in the morning, we remained at anchor until nine o'clock, to set up afresh the rigging of the new top masts; and I took a boat to sound upon a rippling near the ship, but found the same depth of 5 fathoms. Very little progress was made until noon, at which time shoal water obliged us to steer westward. At three the soundings had increased from 31/2 to 10 fathoms, which was the deepest water to be found; for it became shallower on approaching the western shore. After steering various northwardly courses, we anchored at sunset in 5 fathoms, sand, shells and broken coral; the shores then appeared to close round at the distance of seven or eight miles; and the absence of tide gave no prospect of finding any river at the head of the inlet.

According to lieutenant Flinders' observations, the situation of the anchorage was in

Latitude, 34 deg. 16' 36" Longitude by time keepers, 138 6 Mount Lofty, dist. 17 leagues, bore, S. 35 E. Hummock Mount, highest part, N. 5 E. A low sandy point, dist. 3 or 4, miles, N. 69 E. A low point covered with mangroves, N. 53 W.

The variation from an amplitude, observed when the ship's head was south-eastward, was 2 deg. 50' east; but the compass being upon a stand out of its usual place, I cannot deduce the true variation, but took it to be; 4 deg. 40' east, nearly as found at the preceding anchorage.

TUESDAY 30 MARCH 1802

Early in the morning I went in a boat, accompanied by the naturalist, to examine more closely the head of the gulph. We carried from 4 to 3 fathoms water four miles above the ship, when it shoaled to fifteen and eight feet, which brought us to mud flats, nearly dry; but by means of a small channel amongst them we got within half a mile of the shore, and walked to it upon a bank of mud and sand.

It was then ten o'clock, and the tide was out; so that I judged the time of high water to be about seven hours after the moon's passage, or three hours later than at Kangaroo Island; and the ordinary rise appeared to be six or eight feet. An observation of the sun's meridian altitude from the artificial horizon showed the landing-place to be in latitude 34 deg. 8' 52", and the uppermost water might be 30" less; whence the extent of this inlet, from Cape Jervis on the east side of the entrance, is 1 deg. 30' of latitude.