After disembarking the Karnah contingent, the ship steamed to Etah, arriving there on the afternoon of August 17. As the Roosevelt was entering the harbor of Etah, all hands were on deck and on the lookout, for it was here that we were again to come in touch with the world we had left behind a year before. A large number of Esquimos were running up and down the shore, but there was no sign of the expected ship. Quickly a boat was lowered, and I saw to it that I was a member of the crew of that boat, and when we reached the beach the first person to greet me was old Panikpah, greasy, smiling, and happy as if I were his own son. I quickly recognized my old friend Pooadloonah, who greeted me with a merry laugh, and my misgivings as to the fate of this precious pair were dispelled. If you will remember, Panikpah and Pooadloonah were the two Esquimos who found, when on our Poleward journey, just about the time we had struck the "Big Lead," that there were a couple of fox-traps, or something like that, that they had forgotten to attend to, and that it was extremely necessary for them to go back and square up their accounts. Here they were, fat, smiling, and healthy; and I apprehend somewhat surprised to see us, but they bluffed it out well.

Murphy and the young man Pritchard were also here. Murphy and Pritchard were the members of the crew who had been left here to guard the provisions of the expedition, and to trade with the Esquimos. Another person also was there to greet us; but who had kept himself alive and well by his own pluck and clear grit, and who reported on meeting the Commander of having had a most satisfactory and enjoyable experience. I refer to Mr. Harry Whitney, the young man from New Haven, Conn., who had elected at the last hour, the previous autumn, to remain at Etah, to hunt the big game of the region. When the Roosevelt had sailed north from Etah, the previous August, he had been left absolutely alone; the Erik had sailed for home, and there was no way out of this desolate land for him until the relief ship came north the following year, or the Roosevelt came south to take him aboard. His outfit and equipment were sufficient for him and complete, but he had shared it with the natives until it was exhausted, and after that he had reverted to the life of the aborigines. When the Roosevelt reached Etah, Mr. Whitney was an Esquimo; but within one hour, he had a bath, a shave, and a hair-cut, and was the same mild-mannered gentleman that we had left there in the fall. He had gratified his ambitions in shooting musk-oxen, but he had not killed a single polar bear.

At Etah there were two boys, Etookahshoo and Ahpellah, boys about sixteen or seventeen years old, who had been with Dr. Cook for a year, or ever since he had crossed the channel to Ellesmere Land and returned again. These boys are the two he claims accompanied him to the North Pole. To us, up there at Etah, such a story was so ridiculous and absurd that we simply laughed at it. We knew Dr. Cook and his abilities; he had been the surgeon on two of Peary's expeditions and, aside from his medical ability, we had no faith in him whatever. He was not even good for a day's work, and the idea of his making such an astounding claim as having reached the Pole was so ludicrous that, after our laugh, we dropped the matter altogether.

On account of the world-wide controversy his story has caused, I will quote from my diary the impressions noted in regard to him:

"August 17, 1909, Etah, North Greenland.

"Mr. Harry Whitney came aboard with the boatswain and the cabin-boy, who had been left here last fall on our way to Cape Sheridan. Murphy is the boatswain and Pritchard the boy, both from Newfoundland, and they look none the worse for wear, in spite of the long time they have spent here. Mr. Whitney is the gentleman who came up on the Erik last year, and at the last moment decided to spend the winter with the natives. He had a long talk with the Commander before we left for the north, and has had quite a lengthy session with him since. I learn that Dr. Cook came over from Ellesmere Land with his two boys, Etookahshoo and Ahpellah, and in a confidential conversation with Mr. Whitney made the statement that he had reached the North Pole. Professor MacMillan and I have talked to his two boys and have learned that there is no foundation in fact for such a statement, and the Captain and others of the expedition have questioned them, and if they were out on the ice of the Arctic Ocean it was only for a very short distance, not more than twenty or twenty-five miles. The boys are positive in this statement, and my own boys, Ootah and Ooqueah, have talked to them also, and get the same replies. It is a fact that they had a very hard time and were reduced to low limits, but they have not been any distance north, and the Commander and the rest of us are in the humor to regard Mr. Whitney as a person who has been hoodwinked. We know Dr. Cook very well and also his reputation, and we know that he was never good for a hard day's work; in fact he was not up to the average, and he is no hand at all in making the most of his resources. He probably has spun this yarn to Mr. Whitney and the boatswain to make himself look big to them.

"The Commander will not permit Mr. Whitney to bring any of the Dr. Cook effects aboard the Roosevelt and they have been left in a cache on shore. Koolootingwah is here again, after his trip to North Star Bay with Dr. Cook, and tells an amusing story of his experience."

It is only from a sense of justice to Commander Peary and those who were with him that I have mentioned Dr. Cook. The outfitting of the hunting expedition of Mr. Bradley was well known to us. Captain Bartlett had directed it and had advised and arranged for the purchase of the Schooner John R. Bradley to carry the hunting party to the region where big game of the character Mr. Bradley wished to hunt could be found. We knew that Dr. Cook was accompanying Mr. Bradley, but we had no idea that the question of the discovery of the North Pole was to be involved.

I have reason to be grateful to Dr. Cook for favors received; I lived with his folks while I was suffering with my eyes, due to snow blindness, but I feel that all of the debts of gratitude have been liquidated by my silence in this controversy, and I will have nothing more to say in regard to him or to his claims.



CHAPTER XXI

ETAH TO NEW YORK—COMING OF MAIL AND REPORTERS—HOME!

At Etah we expected to meet the relief ship. Sixty tons of coal and a small quantity of provisions had been left there during the previous summer, to be used by us on our homeward voyage. This coal was loaded on board and the Esquimos who desired to remain at Etah were landed. Just at the time we were ready to sail a heavy storm of wind and snow blew up, and it was not until six P. M. on the 20th that we left the harbor. Farewells had been said to the Esquimos, all that had been promised them for faithful services had been given to them, and we commenced the final stage of our journey home.

From Etah, August 20, the ship sailed along the coast, landing Esquimos at the different settlements, and on the 23rd of August at two A. M., we met the Schooner Jeanie, of St. John, N. F., commanded by Samuel Bartlett. The schooner was supplied with provisions and coal for the relief of the Roosevelt, and was executing the plan of the Peary Arctic Club.

There was mail aboard her and we had our first tidings of home and friends in a twelve-month. From newspaper clippings I learned that the British Antarctic Expedition, commanded by Sir Ernest H. Shackleton, had reached within 111 miles of the South Pole.

The mail contained good news for all but one of us. Mr. Borup, in his bunk above the Professor's, read his letters, and in the course of his reading was heard to emit a deep sigh, then to utter an agonizing groan. Prof. MacMillan, thinking that Borup had received bad news indeed, endeavored to console him, and at the same time asked what was the bad news, feeling sure it could be nothing less than the death of Colonel Borup or some other close relative of his.

"What is the matter, George? Tell me."

"HARVARD BEAT YALE!"

The Roosevelt, accompanied by her consort, sailed south to North Star Bay and while entering the harbor ran ashore. Late in the afternoon, however, the rising tide floated her. While waiting for the tide, a party of six, I among the number, went ashore and visited the Danish Missionary settlement established there, the Esquimos acting as our interpreters, we being unable to speak Danish and the missionaries being unable to speak English. It was in North Star Bay that the coal and provisions from the Jeanie were transferred to the Roosevelt.

Aboard the Jeanie, there was a young Esquimo man, Mene, who for the past twelve years had lived in New York City, but, overcome by a strong desire to live again in his own country, had been sent north by his friends in the States. He was almost destitute, having positively nothing in the way of an equipment to enable him to withstand the rigors of the country, and was no more fitted for the life he was to take up than any boy of eighteen or twenty would be, for he was but a little boy when he first left North Greenland. However, Commander Peary ordered that he be given a plentiful supply of furs to keep him warm, food, ammunition and loading outfit, traps and guns, but, I believe, he would have gladly returned with us, for it was a wistful farewell he made, and an Esquimo's farewell is usually very barren of pathos.

Mr. Whitney transferred his augmented equipment to the Jeanie, intending to remain with her down the Labrador, for her Captain had agreed to use every effort to help Mr. Whitney secure at least one polar bear.

Cape York was reached on the morning of August 25, and from the two Esquimo families, living at the extreme point of the Cape, we obtained the mail which had been left there by Captain Adams of the Dundee Whaling Fleet Morning Star. Our letters, although they bore no more recent a date than that of March 23, 1909, were eagerly read.

At Cape York we landed the last of the Esquimos. The decks were now cleared. The boats were securely lashed in their davits, and nine A. M., August 26, in a gale of wind, the Roosevelt put out to sea, homeward-bound, but not yet out of danger, for the gale increased so considerably that the Roosevelt was forced to lay to under reefed foresail, in the lee of the middle pack, until the 29th, when the storm subsided and the ship got under way again.

On September 4 the Labrador was sighted. Under full steam we passed the Farmyard, a group of small islands which lie off the coast.

We arrived at Turnavik at seven-thirty P. M. Once again we saw signs of civilization. The men and women appeared in costumes of the Twentieth Century instead of the fur garments of the Esquimos. Here we loaded nineteen tons of coal. Here we feasted on fresh codfish, fresh vegetables, and other appetizing foods to which our palates had long been strangers.

You know the rest, for from Turnavik to Indian Harbor was only a few hours' sailing.

At Indian Harbor was located the wireless telegraph station from where Commander Peary flashed to the civilized world his laconic message, "Stars and Stripes nailed to the North Pole."

Within half an hour of our arrival, the British cutter Fiona entered the harbor and the officers came aboard the Roosevelt. Thereafter for every hour there was continuous excitement and reception of visitors.

On September 13th the steamer Douglas H. Thomas, of Sydney, C. B., arrived, having on board two representatives of the Associated Press, accompanied by Mr. Rood, a representative of Harper's Magazine.

The next day the cable-boat Tyrian arrived, with seventeen newspaper reporters, five photographers, and one stenographer. The Tyrian anchored outside the harbor and in five life-boats the party was brought aboard the Roosevelt. As they rowed they cheered, and when they sighted Commander Peary three ringing cheers and a tiger were given. The newspaper men requested an interview with the Commander. He granted their request, at the same time suggesting that they accompany him ashore to a fish-loft at the end of the pier, where there would be more room than aboard the ship. Accompanied by the members of the expedition, the Commander and the reporters left the ship. Arriving at the loft Commander Peary sat on some fishnets at the rear end of the loft, some of the reporters sat on barrels and nets, others squatted on the floor. They formed a semi-circle around him and eagerly listened to the first telling of his stirring story.

Before leaving Battle Harbor, we received a visit from the great missionary, Dr. Grenfell, the effect of whose presence was almost like a benediction.

On the morning of the 18th we left Battle Harbor accompanied by the tug Douglas H. Thomas, amidst the salutes of the many vessels and boats in the harbor and the cannon on the hill.

Through the Straits of Belle Isle we steamed, with a fair wind and a choppy sea. In the meantime I was busily engaged in making a strip to sew upon a large American flag. This was a broad white bar which was to extend from the upper right to the lower left corner of the flag, with the words "North Pole" sewed on it.

About six A. M. on the 21st, a large white, steam-yacht was seen approaching, flying an American flag from her foremast and the English flag from the mizzenmast. We were close enough to her to distinguish Mrs. Peary and the children on board. A boat was quickly lowered from the yacht and the Peary family was soon united aboard the Roosevelt.

All kinds of sailing craft now met the Roosevelt and by them she was escorted into the harbor of Sydney, C. B. Whistles were blown, thousands of people lined the shores of the harbor, cheering enthusiastically and waving flags, and as the Roosevelt was moored alongside the pier, a delegation of school-girls met the Commander, made an address, and presented him with a magnificent bouquet. The streets were gorgeously decorated and a holiday had been declared. A ripe, royal welcome was accorded the Roosevelt and the members of the expedition. Visitors boarded the ship and looted successfully for souvenirs.

It was at Sydney that the expedition commenced to disband. Commander Peary and his family returned to the United States via railroad-train.

The Roosevelt left Sydney on September 22 for New York City. A stop was made at Eagle Island, in Casco Bay, off the coast of Maine, where is located the summer home of Commander Peary, and here we landed most of his paraphernalia, some sledges and dogs. From Eagle Island we steamed direct to Sandy Hook, reaching there at noon on October 2. The next day the Roosevelt took her place with the replica of those two historic ships, the Half Moon and the Clermont, in the lead of the great naval parade.

And now my story is ended; it is a tale that is told. "Now is Othello's occupation gone."

I long to see them all again! the brave, cheery companions of the trail of the North. I long to see again the lithe figure of my Commander! and to hear again his clear, ringing voice urging and encouraging me onward, with his "Well done, my boy." I want to be with the party when they reach the untrod shores of Crocker Land; I yearn to be with those who reach the South Pole, the lure of the Arctic is tugging at my heart, to me the trail is calling!

"The Old Trail! The Trail that is always New!"



APPENDIX I

NOTES ON THE ESQUIMOS

The origin of the Esquimos is not known to a certainty. In color they are brown, their hair is heavy, straight, coarse, and black. In appearance they are short, fat, and well-developed; and they bear a strong resemblance to the Mongolian race.

Among the men of this tribe, quarrels and fights very rarely occur; but it is a very noticeable fact that while the men of the tribe do not make war on each other, the man of the family will, at the least provocation on the part of his better-half, without hesitation apply brute force to show his authority.

The tribe of these, the North Greenland Esquimos, numbers two hundred and eighteen.

Great interest was shown by the men when working implements, such as we used on board ship, were shown them. Eagerly they listened while the uses of many of these tools were explained to them. The women also showed great interest in any article that was foreign to them. They have a special liking for fancy beads of the smaller variety.

The Esquimos show a great capacity for imitation. They have also a marked sense of humor.

An Esquimo's sense of imitation is so keen that it is only necessary for him to observe a sledge-maker at work but once, when the same type of sledge will be reproduced in a very short time. On my last trip north, I noticed that the shirts worn by the Esquimos were similar in style and cut to our own. In 1906, the style had been entirely different.

The Esquimos show no desire to acquire the English language. With the exception of Kudlooktoo and Inighito, none of the tribe could speak English intelligently. The Esquimos' vocabulary is a complication of prefixes and suffixes, and many words in his language are very hard to pronounce.

The tupiks (tents) are made of sealskin, and are used in summer. The igloos are built of snow, and are used in winter. A few igloos built of bowlders can be seen. The workmanship of this latter type of igloos is necessarily crude, for the bowlders are used in the rough state. On entering the tuscoonah (entrance), a bed-platform of stones five feet long, and six feet wide, confronts one. On each side of this platform are seen smaller platforms, each holding a koodlah (fire-pot).

This koodlah is made of a stone so soft that before it comes in contact with fire it can easily be cut with a knife. The name given by the Esquimos to it is okeyoah. Cooking utensils are first formed in the desired shape, then heat is applied, as a result of which the stone quickly hardens. The method of cooking as employed by the Esquimos is to suspend the kooleesoo (cooking-pot) over the koodlah (fire-pot). The koodlah is the only means by which light can be secured in an Esquimo igloo. As fuel, the blubber of the narwhal is used.

The clothing of the male Esquimo consists of a kooletah (deerskin coat with hood attached), nanookes (foxskin trousers) and kamiks (sealskin boots); that of the female Esquimo, a kopetah (foxskin coat with hood attached), nanookes (foxskin trousers) and hip length kamiks (sealskin boots). The shirts of the male and female Esquimo are made from the skin of the auks, and one hundred and fifty of these little birds are used in the manufacture of one shirt.

The largest Esquimo family known among the North Greenland tribe, numbers six; as a rule, an Esquimo family rarely outnumbers three. An Esquimo family is not stationary. Rarely does a family remain in one place longer than one season, which is nine months. The principal reason for this constant moving is the scarcity of game; for after a season of hunting in one place, game becomes very scarce; and there is no other alternative but for the family to move on. Transportation is by means of sledges drawn by a team of dogs. Alcoholic drinks are not known among this tribe; but, of late, tobacco is extensively used. Previous to 1902, before the arrival of the Danes, tobacco was an unknown quantity.

The cleanliness of the Esquimos leaves room for much improvement.

With reference to their morals, strictly speaking they are markedly lax. The wife of an Esquimo is held in no higher esteem than are the goods and chattels of the household. She may at any time be loaned, borrowed, sold, or exchanged. They have no marriage ceremony.

The amusements of the Esquimos are few. Tests of strength and endurance occur between the men of the tribe; and visits are paid to the various settlements, during the long winter nights; and songs and choruses are sung, accompanied by a kind of tambourine which is made from the bladder of a walrus or seal, and stretched across the antlers of a reindeer.

The Esquimos are a very superstitious people. In the event of a fatal illness, the victim, just before death, is removed to a place outside the igloo, for should death enter the igloo that dwelling would instantly be destroyed. If the deceased be a man, he is rolled up in a sealskin, and strips of rawhide are lashed around the body to keep the skin intact. He is then carried to his last resting place. A low stone structure is built around the body to protect it from the foxes. His sledge, containing all his belongings, is placed close beside this structure, and his dogs harnessed to his sledge are strangled, and stretched their full length, with their forepaws extended. In the event of the deceased being a woman, her cooking utensils are placed beside her, and should she be the mother of a very young infant, its life is taken. In the case of a widower, the bereaved Esquimo remains in the igloo for three days, during which time a new suit of wearing apparel is made, and worn by him, and all clothing made by the deceased, is, by him, destroyed. His term of mourning now being ended, the Esquimo, without more ado, takes unto himself a new wife. Members of the tribe who have the same name as the deceased have to change that name until the arrival of a new-born babe, to whom the name is given, whereby the ban is removed. The Esquimos have no decided form of religion. When questioned as to where the soul of the good Esquimo will go, they reply by pointing upward; and by pointing downward, the question is answered as to the final dwelling-place of the wicked.

The main cause of death amongst the Esquimos is from a disease the symptoms of which are a cough, nausea, and fever, which disease quickly causes death.

It is true that the Esquimos are of little value to the commercial world, due probably to their isolated position; but these same unlearned and uncivilized people have rendered valuable assistance in the discovery of the North Pole.



APPENDIX II

LIST OF SMITH SOUND ESQUIMOS

(Males marked by an asterisk)

Ac-com-o-ding'-wah * Ah-ding'-ah-loo Ah-dul-ah-ko-tee'-ah * Ah-dul-ah-ko-tee'-ah * Ah-ga-tah' Ah-go'-tah * Ah-kah-gee'-ah-how A-ka-ting'-wah A-ka-ting'-wah Ah-li-kah-sing'-wah Ah-li-kah-sing'-wah Ah-li-kah-sing'-wah Ah'-mah Ah-mame'-ee Ah-mo-ned'-dy Ah-mung'-wah Ah-nad'-doo Ah-nah'-we Ah-nah-wing'-wah Ahng-een'-yah * Ahng-een'-yah Ahng'-ing-nah Ahng-ma-lok'-to * Ahng-nah'-nia Ahng-no-ding'-wah Ahng-o-do-blah'-o * Ahng-o-di-gip'-so Ahng'-od-loo * Ah-ni-ghi'-to Ah-ni-ghi'-to Ah-ning'-wah Ah-ning'-wah Ah-now'-kah * Ah-now'-kah * Ah'-pel-lah * Ah'-pel-lah * Ah-pu-ding'-wah * Ah-say'-oo * Ah'-te-tah Ah'-te-tah Ah-took-sung'-wah Ah-tung'-ee-nah Ah-tung'-ee-nah Ah-wa-ting'-wah * Ah-wa-tok'-suah * Ah-wee'-ah Ah-wee'-ah Ah-wee-ah-good'-loo Ah-wee-aung-o'-nah Ah-wee'-i-ah * Ah-we-ging'-wah * Ah-we-shung'-wah * Ah-wok-tun'-ee-ah Ak-pood-ah-shah'-o * Ak-pood-ah-shah'-o * Ak-pood'-ee-ark * Ak-pood-e-uk'-ee A-le'-tah * Al'-nay-ah Al-nay-du'-ah Ar-ke'-o * Ar-ke'-o * Ar-ke'-o *

E-gee'-ah * E-ging'-wah * E-ging'-wah * E-lay-ting'-wah E-ling'-wah * E-meen'-yah * E-she-a'-too E-shing'-wah E-tood'-loo * E-took'-ah-shoo * E-took'-ah-shoo * E-too-shok'-swah E'-vah-loo E'-vah-loo E'-we

I-ah-ping'-wah * I-ah-ping'-wah * Ig-lood-ee-ark'-swee * Ihr'-lee * Ik'-wah * Ik-kile-e-oo'-shah Il-kah-lin'-ah Il-kli-ah' * Il-kli-ah' * In-ad-lee'-ah In-ad-lee'-ah In'-ah-loo In-i-ghi'-to * In-i-ghi'-to * In-i-ghi'-to * In-noo'-i-tah * In-noo-tah' In-noo-tah' In-u-ah-pud'-o * In-u-ah'-o In-yah-lung'-wah I-on'-ah I-o-wit'-ty *

Jacok-su'-nah *

Kah'-dah * Kah-ko-tee'-ah Kah-ko-tee'-ah * Kah-shad'-doo Kah-shoo'-be-doo * Kai-o-ang'-wah * Kai-o-ang'-wah * Kai'-oh * Kai-o-look'-to * Kai-o'-tah * Kai-we-ark'-shah * Kai-we-ing'-wah * Kai'-we-kah * Kai-ung'-wah * Kang-nah' * Kes-shoo' * Ke-shung'-wah * Klay'-oo Klay'-oo Klay-ung'-wah Klip-e-sok'-swah * Kood'-ee-puck Kood-loo-tin'-ah * Kood-loo-tin'-ah * (or Koolatoonah) Koo-e-tig'-e-to * Koo'-lee Kool-oo-ting'-wah * Koo-u-pee' Koo-u-pee' Kud'-ah-shah * Kud'-lah * Kud'-lah * Kud-lun'-ah * Kud-look'-too * Ky-u-tah *

Ma-gip'-soo Mah-so'-nah * Mah-so'-nah * Mah-so'-nah * Mah-so'-nah * Mark-sing'-wah * Mee'-tik * Mee'-tik * Me-gip'-soo Mek'-kah Me'-ne * Merk-to-shah' * Mok'-sah * Mok-sang'-wah Mok-sang'-wah Mon'-nie Mon'-nie Micky'-shoo My'-ah * My-o'-tah *

Nay-dee-ing'-wah Nel-lee'-kah Nel-lee-ka-tee'-ah Net'-too Net'-too New-e-king'-wah New-e-king'-wah New-e-king'-wah New-hate'-e-lah'-o * New-hate'-e-lah'-o * New-kah-ping'-wah * Nip-sang'-wah * Now-o-yat'-loe Nup'-sah

Og'-we * Oo-ah-oun' * Oo-bloo'-yah * Oo-bloo'-yah * Oo'-mah * Oo-que'-ah * Oo'-tah* Oo-tun'-iah Oo-we'-ah-oop * Oo-we-she-a'-too

Pan'-ik-pah * Pee-ah-wah'-to * Poo-ad-loo'-nah* Poo-ad-loo'-nah * Poo-ad-loo'-nah * Poob'-lah * Poob'-lah * Pood-lung'-wah Poo'-too

Sag'-wah Sat'-too * Seeg'-loo * Seen-o-ung'-wah See-o-dee-kah'-to Shoo-e-king'-wah Sim'-e-ah Sin-ah'-ew Sip'-soo Sow'-nah Suk'-kun * Sul-ming'-wah *

Tah'-tah-rah * Tah'-wah-nah * Taw-ching'-wah * Taw-ching'-wah * Teddy-ling'-wah * Toi-tee'-ah * Took-e-ming'-wah Too'-koom-ah Tu-bing'-wah Tung-wing'-wah Tung'-we *

Ung'-ah *

We'-ark We-shark'-oup-si *

Two female babies not named

Male 122 Female 96 —— Total 218

THE END

* * * * *

Transcriber's Notes:

The illustrations have been moved out of the middle of paragraphs so as to not interrupt the flow of reading.

Obvious punctuation errors have been repaired.

Page xiii, "ESKIMOS" changed to "ESQUIMOS". (NORTH POLE ESQUIMOS)

Page 76, "Equimos" changed to "Esquimos". (fourteen Esquimos)

One instance each of the following was retained:

fiendlike/fiend-like forepaws/fore-paws readjusting/re-adjusting