On the last day of August we anchored for the second time at Porto Praya in the Cape de Verd archipelago; thence we proceeded to the Azores, where we stayed six days. On the 2nd of October we made the shores of England; and at Falmouth I left the "Beagle," having lived on board the good little vessel nearly five years.

(PLATE 105. HOMEWARD BOUND, THE "BEAGLE.")

Our Voyage having come to an end, I will take a short retrospect of the advantages and disadvantages, the pains and pleasures, of our circumnavigation of the world. If a person asked my advice, before undertaking a long voyage, my answer would depend upon his possessing a decided taste for some branch of knowledge, which could by this means be advanced. No doubt it is a high satisfaction to behold various countries and the many races of mankind, but the pleasures gained at the time do not counterbalance the evils. It is necessary to look forward to a harvest, however distant that may be, when some fruit will be reaped, some good effected.

Many of the losses which must be experienced are obvious; such as that of the society of every old friend, and of the sight of those places with which every dearest remembrance is so intimately connected. These losses, however, are at the time partly relieved by the exhaustless delight of anticipating the long-wished-for day of return. If, as poets say, life is a dream, I am sure in a voyage these are the visions which best serve to pass away the long night. Other losses, although not at first felt, tell heavily after a period: these are the want of room, of seclusion, of rest; the jading feeling of constant hurry; the privation of small luxuries, the loss of domestic society and even of music and the other pleasures of imagination. When such trifles are mentioned, it is evident that the real grievances, excepting from accidents, of a sea-life are at an end. The short space of sixty years has made an astonishing difference in the facility of distant navigation. Even in the time of Cook, a man who left his fireside for such expeditions underwent severe privations. A yacht now, with every luxury of life, can circumnavigate the globe. Besides the vast improvements in ships and naval resources, the whole western shores of America are thrown open, and Australia has become the capital of a rising continent. How different are the circumstances to a man shipwrecked at the present day in the Pacific, to what they were in the time of Cook! Since his voyage a hemisphere has been added to the civilised world.

If a person suffer much from sea-sickness, let him weigh it heavily in the balance. I speak from experience: it is no trifling evil, cured in a week. If, on the other hand, he take pleasure in naval tactics, he will assuredly have full scope for his taste. But it must be borne in mind how large a proportion of the time, during a long voyage, is spent on the water, as compared with the days in harbour. And what are the boasted glories of the illimitable ocean? A tedious waste, a desert of water, as the Arabian calls it. No doubt there are some delightful scenes. A moonlight night, with the clear heavens and the dark glittering sea, and the white sails filled by the soft air of a gently-blowing trade-wind, a dead calm, with the heaving surface polished like a mirror, and all still except the occasional flapping of the canvas. It is well once to behold a squall with its rising arch and coming fury, or the heavy gale of wind and mountainous waves. I confess, however, my imagination had painted something more grand, more terrific, in the full-grown storm. It is an incomparably finer spectacle when beheld on shore, where the waving trees, the wild flight of the birds, the dark shadows and bright lights, the rushing of the torrents, all proclaim the strife of the unloosed elements. At sea the albatross and little petrel fly as if the storm were their proper sphere, the water rises and sinks as if fulfilling its usual task, the ship alone and its inhabitants seem the objects of wrath. On a forlorn and weather-beaten coast the scene is indeed different, but the feelings partake more of horror than of wild delight.

Let us now look at the brighter side of the past time. The pleasure derived from beholding the scenery and the general aspect of the various countries we have visited has decidedly been the most constant and highest source of enjoyment. It is probable that the picturesque beauty of many parts of Europe exceeds anything which we beheld. But there is a growing pleasure in comparing the character of the scenery in different countries, which to a certain degree is distinct from merely admiring its beauty. It depends chiefly on an acquaintance with the individual parts of each view; I am strongly induced to believe that as in music, the person who understands every note will, if he also possesses a proper taste, more thoroughly enjoy the whole, so he who examines each part of a fine view may also thoroughly comprehend the full and combined effect. Hence, a traveller should be a botanist, for in all views plants form the chief embellishment. Group masses of naked rock even in the wildest forms, and they may for a time afford a sublime spectacle, but they will soon grow monotonous. Paint them with bright and varied colours, as in Northern Chile, they will become fantastic; clothe them with vegetation, they must form a decent, if not a beautiful picture.

When I say that the scenery of parts of Europe is probably superior to anything which we beheld, I except, as a class by itself, that of the intertropical zones. The two classes cannot be compared together; but I have already often enlarged on the grandeur of those regions. As the force of impressions generally depends on preconceived ideas, I may add that mine were taken from the vivid descriptions in the "Personal Narrative" of Humboldt, which far exceed in merit anything else which I have read. Yet with these high-wrought ideas, my feelings were far from partaking of a tinge of disappointment on my first and final landing on the shores of Brazil.

Among the scenes which are deeply impressed on my mind, none exceed in sublimity the primeval forests undefaced by the hand of man; whether those of Brazil, where the powers of Life are predominant, or those of Tierra del Fuego, where Death and Decay prevail. Both are temples filled with the varied productions of the God of Nature:—no one can stand in these solitudes unmoved, and not feel that there is more in man than the mere breath of his body. In calling up images of the past, I find that the plains of Patagonia frequently cross before my eyes; yet these plains are pronounced by all wretched and useless. They can be described only by negative characters; without habitations, without water, without trees, without mountains, they support merely a few dwarf plants. Why, then, and the case is not peculiar to myself, have these arid wastes taken so firm a hold on my memory? Why have not the still more level, the greener and more fertile Pampas, which are serviceable to mankind, produced an equal impression? I can scarcely analyse these feelings: but it must be partly owing to the free scope given to the imagination. The plains of Patagonia are boundless, for they are scarcely passable, and hence unknown: they bear the stamp of having lasted, as they are now, for ages, and there appears no limit to their duration through future time. If, as the ancients supposed, the flat earth was surrounded by an impassable breadth of water, or by deserts heated to an intolerable excess, who would not look at these last boundaries to man's knowledge with deep but ill-defined sensations?

Lastly, of natural scenery, the views from lofty mountains, though certainly in one sense not beautiful, are very memorable. When looking down from the highest crest of the Cordillera, the mind, undisturbed by minute details, was filled with the stupendous dimensions of the surrounding masses.

Of individual objects, perhaps nothing is more certain to create astonishment than the first sight in his native haunt of a barbarian,—of man in his lowest and most savage state. One's mind hurries back over past centuries, and then asks, Could our progenitors have been men like these?—men, whose very signs and expressions are less intelligible to us than those of the domesticated animals; men, who do not possess the instinct of those animals, nor yet appear to boast of human reason, or at least of arts consequent on that reason. I do not believe it is possible to describe or paint the difference between savage and civilised man. It is the difference between a wild and tame animal: and part of the interest in beholding a savage is the same which would lead every one to desire to see the lion in his desert, the tiger tearing his prey in the jungle, or the rhinoceros wandering over the wild plains of Africa.

Among the other most remarkable spectacles which we have beheld, may be ranked the Southern Cross, the cloud of Magellan, and the other constellations of the southern hemisphere—the waterspout—the glacier leading its blue stream of ice, overhanging the sea in a bold precipice—a lagoon-island raised by the reef-building corals—an active volcano—and the overwhelming effects of a violent earthquake. These latter phenomena, perhaps, possess for me a peculiar interest, from their intimate connexion with the geological structure of the world. The earthquake, however, must be to every one a most impressive event: the earth, considered from our earliest childhood as the type of solidity, has oscillated like a thin crust beneath our feet; and in seeing the laboured works of man in a moment overthrown, we feel the insignificance of his boasted power.

It has been said that the love of the chase is an inherent delight in man—a relic of an instinctive passion. If so, I am sure the pleasure of living in the open air, with the sky for a roof and the ground for a table, is part of the same feeling; it is the savage returning to his wild and native habits. I always look back to our boat cruises, and my land journeys, when through unfrequented countries, with an extreme delight, which no scenes of civilisation could have created. I do not doubt that every traveller must remember the glowing sense of happiness which he experienced when he first breathed in a foreign clime where the civilised man had seldom or never trod.

There are several other sources of enjoyment in a long voyage which are of a more reasonable nature. The map of the world ceases to be a blank; it becomes a picture full of the most varied and animated figures. Each part assumes its proper dimensions: continents are not looked at in the light of islands, or islands considered as mere specks, which are, in truth, larger than many kingdoms of Europe. Africa, or North and South America, are well-sounding names, and easily pronounced; but it is not until having sailed for weeks along small portions of their shores, that one is thoroughly convinced what vast spaces on our immense world these names imply.

From seeing the present state, it is impossible not to look forward with high expectations to the future progress of nearly an entire hemisphere. The march of improvement, consequent on the introduction of Christianity throughout the South Sea, probably stands by itself in the records of history. It is the more striking when we remember that only sixty years since, Cook, whose excellent judgment none will dispute, could foresee no prospect of a change. Yet these changes have now been effected by the philanthropic spirit of the British nation.

In the same quarter of the globe Australia is rising, or indeed may be said to have risen, into a grand centre of civilisation, which, at some not very remote period, will rule as empress over the southern hemisphere. It is impossible for an Englishman to behold these distant colonies without a high pride and satisfaction. To hoist the British flag seems to draw with it as a certain consequence, wealth, prosperity, and civilisation.

In conclusion it appears to me that nothing can be more improving to a young naturalist than a journey in distant countries. It both sharpens and partly allays that want and craving, which, as Sir J. Herschel remarks, a man experiences although every corporeal sense be fully satisfied. The excitement from the novelty of objects, and the chance of success, stimulate him to increased activity. Moreover, as a number of isolated facts soon become uninteresting, the habit of comparison leads to generalisation. On the other hand, as the traveller stays but a short time in each place, his descriptions must generally consist of mere sketches, instead of detailed observations. Hence arises, as I have found to my cost, a constant tendency to fill up the wide gaps of knowledge by inaccurate and superficial hypotheses.

But I have too deeply enjoyed the voyage, not to recommend any naturalist, although he must not expect to be so fortunate in his companions as I have been, to take all chances, and to start, on travels by land if possible, if otherwise, on a long voyage. He may feel assured he will meet with no difficulties or dangers, excepting in rare cases, nearly so bad as he beforehand anticipates. In a moral point of view the effect ought to be to teach him good-humoured patience, freedom from selfishness, the habit of acting for himself, and of making the best of every occurrence. In short, he ought to partake of the characteristic qualities of most sailors. Travelling ought also to teach him distrust; but at the same time he will discover how many truly kind-hearted people there are, with whom he never before had, or ever again will have any further communication, who yet are ready to offer him the most disinterested assistance.

(PLATE 106. ASCENSION. TERNS AND NODDIES.)

(PLATE 107. MAP OF SOUTH AMERICA.)

(PLATE 108. MAP OF THE WORLD, SHOWING THE TRACK OF H.M.S. "BEAGLE.")



INDEX.

Abbott, Mr., on spiders.

Aborigines banished from Van Diemen's Land. of Australia.

Abrolhos Islands.

Absence of trees in Pampas.

Aconcagua, volcano of.

Actinia, stinging species.

Africa, Southern part desert, yet supports large animals.

Ageronia feronia.

Agouti, habits of.

Ague common in Peru.

Albemarle Island.

Allan, Dr., on Diodon. on Holuthuriae.

Alluvium, saliferous, in Peru. stratified, in Andes.

Amblyrhynchus.

Anas, species of.

Animalculae. See Infusoria.

Antarctic islands.

Antipodes.

Ants at Keeling Island. in Brazil.

Antuco volcano.

Apires, or miners.

Aplysia.

Apple-trees.

Aptenodytes demersa.

Araucanian Indians.

Areas of alternate movements in the Pacific and Indian oceans.

Armadilloes, habits of. fossil animals allied to.

Arqueros mines.

Arrow-heads, ancient.

Ascension.

Aspalax, blindness of.

Athene cunicularia.

Atolls.

Attagis.

Atwater, Mr., on the prairies.

Audubon, M., on smelling-power of carrion-hawks.

Australia.

Australian barrier. group of weapons.

Ava (Macropiper methysticum).

Azara on spiders. on rain in La Plata. on habits of carrion-hawks. on range of carrion-hawks. on a thunder-storm. on ostrich-eggs. on bows and arrows. on new plants springing up. on great droughts. on hydrophobia.

Bachman, Mr., on carrion-hawks.

Bahia Blanca. fossil tooth of horse from.

Bahia, Brazil. scenery of.

Bajada.

Balbi on coral reefs.

Bald Head, Australia.

Ballenar, Chile.

Banda Oriental.

Banks's Hill.

Barking-bird.

Barrier-reef, Bolabola. reefs, sections of.

Basaltic platform of Santa Cruz.

Bathurst, Australia.

Batrachian reptiles.

Bats, vampire.

Bay of Islands, New Zealand.

Beads, hill of.

Beagle Channel, Tierra del Fuego.

Beech-trees.

Beetles in brackish water. on a fungus. alive in sea. at St. Julian. dung-feeders.

Behring's Straits, fossils of.

Bell of Quillota.

Benchuca.

Berkeley Sound.

Berkeley, Reverend J., on confervae. on Cyttaria.

Berquelo river.

Bibron, M.

Bien te veo.

Birds of the Galapagos Archipelago. tameness of.

Birgos latro.

Bizcacha, habits of.

Blackheath, Australia.

Blackwall, Mr., on spiders.

Blindness of tucutuco.

Blue Mountains.

Body, frozen.

Bolabola, barrier-reef.

Bolas, manner of using.

Bombs, volcanic.

Bones of the guanaco collected in certain spots. fire made of. recent in Pampas. fossil.

Bory St. Vincent on frogs.

Boulders.

Bramador, El.

Brazil, great area of granite.

Brazilian whips, etc.

Breaches in coral reefs.

Breakwater of seaweed.

Brewster, Sir D., on a calcareous deposit.

Bridge of hide. of Incas.

Buckland, Dr., on fossils.

Buenos Ayres. trading at. evening camp. bullock-waggons.

Buffon on American Animals.

Bug of Pampas.

Buildings, Indian.

Bulimus on desert places.

Burchell, Mr., on food of quadrupeds. on ostrich-eggs. on perforated stones.

Butterflies, flocks of.

Butterfly producing clicking sound.

Button, Jemmy.

Byron's account of fox of Falklands. on an Indian killing his child.

Cabbage palm.

Cacti.

Cactornis.

Cactus, Cereus Peruviana.

Calasoma on wing out at sea.

Calcareous casts of branches and roots of trees at King George's Sound. incrustations on rocks of Ascension.

Callao.

Calodera.

Calomys bizcacha.

Camarhynchus.

Camelidae, fossil animal allied to.

Cancer salinus.

Canis antarcticus. fulvipes.

Cape Horn. False Horn. of Good Hope.

Capybara, or carpincho. fossil allied to.

Caracara, or Carrancha.

Cardoon, beds of.

Carizal.

Carmichael, Captain.

Carrion-hawks.

Casarita.

Cassava.

Castro, Chiloe. old church at.

Casuchas.

Catamaran.

Cathartes.

Cats run wild. good to eat. scratch trees. cruelty to mice.

Cattle, effects of their grazing on the vegetation. killed by great droughts. know each other. curious breed of. waste of. wild at the Falkland Islands.

Caucahue.

Cauquenes, hot springs of.

Causes of extinction of species among mammalia. of discoloured sea.

Cavia Patagonica.

Cawa-Cawa, New Zealand.

Caylen.

Cervus campestris.

Ceryle Americana.

Chacao, Chiloe.

Chagos atolls.

Chalk-like mud.

Chamisso on drifted seeds and trees. on coral reefs.

Changes in vegetation of Pampas. in vegetation of St. Helena.

Charles Island.

Chatham Island.

Cheese, salt required for.

Cheucau.

Chile. features of country.

Chilenos.

Chilian miner. spurs, stirrup, etc. vegetation.

Chiloe. old church at castro. forests of, and climate. inhabitants of. roads of. Gunnera scabra.

Chionis alba.

Cholechel, conflict at.

Chonos Archipelago. climate of. zoology of. ornithology of.

Chupat, Rio.

Chuzo.

Cicada homoptera.

Cladonia.

Clearness of atmosphere within Andes, in Chile.

Climate of Tierra del Fuego and Falkland Islands. Antarctic Islands. change of, in Chile. Galapagos.

Clouds of vapour after rain. on Corcovado. hanging low. at sea.

Coloeoptera in Tropics. out at sea. of St. Julian.

Colias edusa, flocks of.

Colnett, Captain, on spawn in sea. on a marine lizard. on transport of seeds.

Colonia del Sacramiento.

Colorado, Rio.

Compound animals.

Concepcion, Chile.

Conchalee.

Condor, habits of. (Sarcorhamphus gryphus.)

Confervae, pelagic.

Conglomerate on the Ventana. in Cordillera.

Conurus.

Convicts of Mauritius. condition, in New South Wales.

Cook, Captain, on kelp.

Copiapo, river and valley of. town of.

Coquimbo.

Coral formations. stinging species of. reefs, sections of. dead.

Corallines.

Corals.

Corcovado, clouds on. volcano.

Cordillera, appearance of. different productions on east and west side. passage of. structure of valleys. rivers of. geology of. valley of Copiapo. mountains.

Cormorant catching fish.

Corral, where animals are slaughtered at Buenos Ayres.

Corrientes, Cape.

Corrobery, or native Australian dance.

Corunda.

Coseguina, eruption of.

Countries, unhealthy.

Couthouy, Mr., on coral-reefs.

Crabberies.

Crabs, hermit species of. at St. Paul's. at Keeling Island.

Craters, number of, at the Galapagos Archipelago. of Elevation.

Crisia.

Cruelty to animals.

Crustacea, pelagic.

Ctenomys Brasiliensis. fossil species of.

Cucao, Chiloe.

Cuckoo-like habits of Molothrus.

Cudico, mission at.

Cuentas, Sierra de.

Cufre.

Cumbre of Cordillera.

Cuming, Mr., on shells.

Cuttlefish, habits of.

Cuvier on Diodon.

Cynara cardunculus.

Cyttaria Darwinii.

Dacelo Iagoensis.

Dasypus, three species of.

Deer.

Degradation of tertiary formations.

Deinornis.

Deserts.

Desmodus.

Despoblado, valley of.

Dieffenbach, Dr. E. on Auckland Island.

Diodon, habits of.

Discoloured sea.

Diseases from miasma.

Distribution of mammalia in America. of animals on opposite sides of Cordillera. of frogs. of Fauna of Galapagos.

Dobrizhoffer on ostriches. on a hail-storm.

Docks, imported.

Dogs, shepherd.

Dolichonyx oryzivorus.

D'Orbigny, Travels in South America.

Doris, eggs of.

Dormidor, or horse-tamer.

Doubleday, Mr., on a noise made by a butterfly.

Drigg, lightning tubes at.

Droughts, great, in Pampas.

Dryness of St. Jago. of winds in Tierra del Fuego. of air in Cordillera.

Dubois.

Dung-feeding beetles.

Dust, falling from atmosphere.

Earthenware, fossil.

Earthquake, accompanied by an elevation of the coast. accompanied by rain. at Callao. at Concepcion. at Coquimbo. at Keeling and Vanikoro, and Society Islands. at Valdivia. causes of. effect of, on springs. on bottom of sea. effects of, on rocks. effects of, on sea. effects of, on a river-bed. line of vibration of. on south-west coast. tossing fragments from the ground. twisting movement of.

Eggs of Doris.

Ehrenberg, Professor, on Atlantic dust. on infusoria in Pampas. in the open sea. in Patagonia. in Fuegian paint. in coral mud. in tuff at Ascension. on phosphorescence of the sea. on noises from a hill.

Eimeo, island of. barrier-reef.

Elater, springing powers of.

Electricity of atmosphere within Andes.

Elephant, weight of.

Elevated shells.

Elevation of coasts of Chile. Bahia Blanca. Pampas. Patagonia. mountain-chains. Cordillera. Peru. within human period. fringing-reefs.

Entomology of the Galapagos Archipelago. Brazil. Patagonia. Tierra del Fuego. Keeling Island. St. Helena.

Entre Rios, geology of.

Epeira, habits of.

Erratic blocks, how transported. absent in intertropical countries. on plains of Santa Cruz. of Tierra del Fuego.

Estancia, value of.

Extermination of species and races.

Extinction of shells at St. Helena. of species, causes of. of man in New South Wales.

Eyes of tucutuco and mole.

Eyre Sound.

Falconer, Dr., on the Sivatherium. on the Indians. on rivers in Pampas. on natural enclosures.

Falkland Islands. absence of trees at. carrion-hawks of. wild cattle and horses of. fox of. climate of. peat of. tame birds at.

Fat, quantity eaten.

Fatahua fall.

Fear an acquired instinct.

Februa Hoffmanseggi, butterfly.

Fennel run wild.

Ferguson, Dr., on miasma.

Fernando Noronha.

Ferns, tree.

Fields of dead coral.

Fire, art of making.

Fireflies.

Fish emitting harsh sound. of Galapagos. eating coral.

Flamingoes.

Fleas.

Floods after droughts. clear after snow.

Flora of the Galapagos. of Keeling Island. of St. Helena.

Flustraceae.

Forests, absence of, in La Plata. of Tierra del Fuego. of Chiloe. of Valdivia. of New Zealand. of Australia.

Fossil Mammalia. earthenware.

Fox of the Falkland Islands. of Chiloe.

Freyrina.

Friendly Archipelago.

Fringing reefs.

Frogs, noises of. bladders of. and toads, not found on oceanic islands.

Frozen soil.

Fruit-trees, southern limit of.

Fucus giganteus.

Fuegians. wigwams. basket and bone weapons.

Fulgurites.

Fungus, edible.

Furnarius.

Galapagos Archipelago. natural history of. marked relationship with America. zoology of. finches from.

Gale of wind.

Gallegos river, fossil bones at.

Gallinazo.

Gauchos. character of. live on meat. surcingle of.

Gavia mountain.

Gay, M., on floating islands. on shells in brackish water.

Geese at the Falkland Islands.

Geographical distribution of American animals. of frogs. of fauna of Galapagos.

Geology of Cordillera. of St. Jago. of St. Paul. of Brazil. of Bahia Blanca. of Pampas. of Patagonia.

Georgia, climate of.

Geospiza.

Gill, Mr., on an upheaved river-bed.

Gillies, Dr., on the Cordillera.

Glaciers in Tierra del Fuego. in latitude 46 degrees 40'. in Cordillera.

Glow-worms.

Goats destructive to vegetation at St. Helena. bones of.

Goeree Roads.

Goitre.

Gold-washing.

Good Success Bay.

Gossamer spider.

Gould, Mr., on the Calodera. on birds of Galapagos.

Granite mountains, Tres Montes. of Cordillera.

Graspus.

Gravel, how far transported. of Patagonia.

Graves of Indians.

Greenstone, fragments of.

Gregory, Cape.

Gryllus migratorius.

Guanaco, habits of. fossil allied genus.

Guantajaya, mines of.

Guardia del Monte.

Guasco.

Guasos of Chile.

Guava imported into Tahiti.

Guinea-fowl.

Guitron.

Gunnera scabra.

Gypsum, great beds of. in salt-lake. in Patagonian tertiary beds. at Iquique with salt. at Lima with shells.

Hachette, M., on lightning-tubes.

Hacienda, condor, and cactus.

Hail-storm.

Hall, Captain Basil, on terraces of Coquimbo.

Hare, Varying.

Head, Captain, on thistle-beds.

Height of snow-line on Cordillera.

Henslow, Professor, on potatoes. on plants of Keeling Island.

Hermit crabs.

Hide bridge.

Hill emitting a noise.

Himantopus.

Hippah, New Zealand.

Hobart Town and Mount Wellington.

Hogoleu barrier-reef.

Holes made by a bird.

Holman on drifted seeds.

Holothuriae feeding on coral.

Homeward bound.

Hooker, Sir J., on the Cardoon. Dr. J.D., on the kelp. on Galapageian plants.

Horn, Cape.

Horner, Mr., on a calcareous deposit.

Horse, swimming powers of.

Horse, wild at the Falkland Islands. fossil of extinct species of.

Horse-fly.

Horsemanship of the Gauchos.

Horses difficult to drive. drop excrement on paths. killed by great droughts. multiplication of. broken in.

Hot springs of Cauquenes.

Huacas.

Humboldt on burnished rocks. on the atmosphere in tropics. on frozen soil. on hybernation. on potatoes. on earthquakes and rain. on miasma.

Humming-birds of Rio De Janeiro. of Chiloe.

Hurtado.

Hybernation of animals.

Hydrochaerus capybara.

Hydrophobia.

Hyla.

Hymenophallus.

Ibis melanops.

Ice, prismatic structure of.

Icebergs.

Incas' bridge.

Incrustations on coast rocks.

Indian fossil remains.

Indians, attacks of. antiquarian relics of. Araucanian. of the Pampas. decrease in numbers of. grave of. Patagonian. perforated stones used by. Valdivian. powers of tracking. ruins of houses of.

Infection.

Infusoria in dust in the Atlantic. in the sea. in the Pampas. in Patagonia. in white paint. in coral mud. at Ascension.

Insects first colonists of St. Paul's rocks. blown out to sea. of Patagonia. of Tierra del Fuego. of Galapagos. of Keeling Island. of St. Helena.

Instincts of birds.

Iodine with salt at Iquique.

Iquique.

Iron, oxide of, on rocks.

Irregular troops.

Islands, oceanic, volcanic. Antarctic. floating. Low.

Jackson, Colonel, on frozen snow.

Jaguar, habits of.

Jajuel, mines of.

James Island.

Jemmy Button.

Juan Fernandez, volcano of. flora of.

Kangaroo-hunting.

Kater's Peak.

Kauri pine.

Keeling Island. inside an atoll. flora of. birds of. entomology of. subsidence of. Birgos latro.

Kelp, or seaweed.

Kendall, Lieutenant, on a frozen body.

Kingfishers.

King George's Sound.

Kororadika.

Labourers, condition of, in Chile.

Lagoon-islands.

Lagostomus.

Lake, brackish, near Rio. with floating islands. formed during earthquake.

Lamarck on acquired blindness.

Lampyris.

Lancaster, Captain, on a sea-tree.

Land-shells.

Las Minas.

Lazo.

Leaves. fossil.

Leeks in New Zealand, imported.

Lemuy Island.

Lepus Magellanicus.

Lesson, M., on the scissor-beak. on rabbit of the Falklands.

Lichen on loose sand.

Lichtenstein on ostriches.

Lightning storms. tubes.

Lima. and San Lorenzo. elevation of a river near.

Lime, changed by lava into crystalline rock.

Limnaea in brackish water.

Lion-ant.

Lizard. marine species of.

Lizards, transport of.

Llama or guanaco, habits of.

Locusts.

Longevity of species in Mollusca.

Lorenzo, San, island of.

Low Archipelago.

Luciano, story of.

Lumb, Mr.

Lund, M., on antiquity of man.

Lund and Clausen on fossils of Brazil.

Luxan.

Luxuriant vegetation not necessary to support large animals.

Lycosa.

Lyell, Mr., on terraces of Coquimbo. on longevity of Mollusca. on change in vegetation. on fossil horses' teeth. on flocks of butterflies. on extinct mammals and ice-period. on stones twisted by earthquakes. on frozen snow. on distribution of animals. on subsidence in the Pacific.

MacCulloch on infection.

Macquarie river.

Macrauchenia.

Macrocystis.

Madrina, or godmother of a troop of mules.

Magdalen channel.

Magellan, flora of. H.M.S. "Beagle" in Straits of. Straits of. Port Famine. kelp of.

Malays.

Malcolmson, Dr., on hail.

Maldiva atolls.

Maldonado.

Mammalia, fossil.

Man, antiquity of. body frozen. fossil remains of. fear of, an acquired instinct. extinction of races.

Mandetiba.

Mandioca or cassava.

Mare's flesh eaten by troops.

Mares killed for their hides.

Mastodon.

Mate pots and Bambillio.

Matter, granular, movements in.

Mauritius.

Maypu river.

Megalonyx.

Megatherium.

Mendoza. climate of.

Mercedes on the Rio Negro.

Mexico, elevation of.

Miasmata.

Mice inhabit sterile places. number of, in America. how transported. different on opposite sides of Andes. of the Galapagos. of Ascension.

Millepora.

Mills for grinding ores.

Mimosae.

Mimus.

Miners, condition of.

Mines. how discovered.

Miranda, Commandant.

Missionaries at New Zealand.

Mitchell, Sir T., on valleys of Australia.

Mocking-bird.

Molina omits description of certain birds.

Molothrus, habits of.

Monkeys with prehensile tails.

Monte Video.

Moresby, Captain, on a great crab. on coral-reefs.

Mount Sarmiento. Tarn. Victoria.

Mountains, elevation of.

Movements in granular matter.

Mud, chalk-like. disturbed by earthquake.

Mules.

Muniz, Signor, on niata cattle.

Murray, Mr., on spiders.

Mylodon.

Myopotamus Coypus.

Narborough Island.

Negress with goitre.

Negro, Rio. lieutenant.

Nepean river.

New Caledonia, reef of.

New Zealand.

Niata cattle.

Noises from a hill.

Noses, ceremony of pressing.

Nothura.

Notopod, crustacean.

Nulliporae, incrustations like. protecting reefs.

Octopus, habits of.

Oily coating on sea.

Olfersia.

Opetiorhynchus.

Opuntia. Darwinii. Galapageia.

Orange-trees self-sown.

Ores, gold.

Ornithology of Galapagos.

Ornithorhynchus.

Osorno, volcano of.

Ostrich, habits of.

Ostrich's eggs.

Otaheite.

Otter.

Ova in sea.

Oven-bird.

Owen, Captain, on a drought in Africa. Professor, on the Capybara. fossil quadrupeds. nostrils of the Gallinazo.

Owl of Pampas. of Galapagos Islands.

Oxyurus.

Oysters, gigantic.

Paint, white.

Pallas on Siberia.

Palm-trees in La Plata. south limit of. in Chile.

Palms absent at Galapagos.

Pampas, halt at a pulperia on the. number of embedded remains in. southern limit of. changes in. giant thistle of. not quite level. geology of. view of, from the Andes.

Pan de Azucar.

Papilio feronia.

Parana, Rio. River. islands in.

Parish, sir W., on the great drought.

Park, Mungo, on eating salt.

Parrots.

Partridges.

Pas, fortresss of New Zealand.

Passes in Cordillera.

Pasture altered from grazing of cattle.

Patagones.

Patagonia, geology of. birds of. zoology of. raised beaches.

Patagonian bolas, etc.

Patagonians, Cape Gregory.

Paypote ravine.

Peach-trees self-sown.

Peat, formation of.

Pebbles perforated. transported in roots of trees.

Pelagic animals in southern ocean.

Penas, glacier in Gulf of.

Penguin, habits of.

Pepsis, habits of.

Pernambuco, reef of.

Pernety on hill of ruins. on tame birds.

Peru. dry valleys of.

Peruvian pottery.

Petrels, habits of.

Peuquenes, pass of.

Phonolite at Fernando Noronha.

Phosphorescence of the sea. of land insects and sea animals. of a coralline.

Phryniscus.

Pine of New Zealand.

Plains at foot of Andes in Chile. almost horizontal near St. Fe.

Planariae, terrestrial species of.

Plants of the Galapagos. of Keeling island. of St. Helena.

Plants, fossil, in Australia.

Plata, River. thunderstorms of.

Plover, long-legged.

Polished rocks, Brazil.

Polyborus chimango. Braziliensis. Novae Zelandiae.

Ponsonby Sound.

Porpoises.

Port Desire. river of. St. Julian. Famine. Jackson.

Portillo Pass.

Porto Praya.

Potato, wild.

Potrero Seco.

Prairies, vegetation of.

Prevost, M., on cuckoos.

Priestley, Dr., on lightning-tubes.

Prisoner, bringing in a.

Procellaria gigantea, habits of.

Proctotretus.

Proteus, blindness of.

Protococcus nivalis.

Pteroptochos, two species of. species of.

Puenta del Inca.

Puffinuria Berardii.

Puffinus cinereus.

Puma, habits of. flesh of.

Puna, or short respiration.

Punta Alta, Bahia Blanca. Gorda. Huantamo.

Pyrophorus luminosus.

Quadrupeds, fossil. large, do not require luxuriant vegetation. weight of.

Quartz of the Ventana. of Tapalguen. of Falkland Island.

Quedius.

Quellaypo volcano.

Quilimari.

Quillota, valley of.

Quinchao Island.

Quintero.

Quiriquina Island.

Quoy and Gaimard on stinging corals. on coral-reefs.

Rabbit, wild, at the Falkland Islands.

Rain at Coquimbo. at Rio. effects on vegetation. and earthquakes. in Chile, formerly more abundant. in Peru.

Rana Mascariensis.

Rat, only aboriginal animal of New Zealand.

Rats at Galapagos. at Keeling Island. at Ascension.

Rattlesnake, species with allied habit.

Red snow.

Reduvius.

Reef at Pernambuco of sandstone.

Reefs of coral. barrier. fringing.

Reeks, Mr., analysis of salt. bones. salt and shells.

Remains, human, elevated.

Remedies of the Gauchos.

Rengger on the horse.

Reptiles absent in Tierra del Fuego. at Galapagos.

Respiration difficult in Andes.

Retrospect.

Revolutions at Buenos Ayres.

Rhea Darwinii (Avestruz Petise).

Rhinoceroses live in desert countries. frozen.

Rhynchops nigra.

Richardson, Dr., on mice of North America. on frozen soil. on eating fat. on geographical distribution. on polished rocks.

Rimsky atoll.

Rio de Janeiro. Botofogo Bay. Plata. Negro. Colorado. Sauce. Salado. S. Cruz.

River-bed, arched.

River-courses dry in America.

Rivers, power of, in wearing channels.

Rocks burnished with ferruginous matter.

Rodents, number of, in America. fossil species of.

Rolor, General.

Rosas, General.

Rozario.

Ruins of Callao. of Indian buildings in Cordillera.

Salado, Rio.

Saladillo river.

Salinas at the Galapagos Archipelago. in Patagonia.

Saline efflorescences.

Salt with vegetable food. superficial crust of. with elevated shells.

Salt-lakes.

San Carlos. Nicolas. Felipe. Pedro. Pedro, forests of. Lorenzo Island.

Sand-dunes.

Sand, hot from sun's rays, at Galapagos Archipelago. noise from friction of.

Sandstone of New South Wales. reef of.

Sandwich Archipelago, no frogs at. Land.

Santa Cruz, river of.

Santiago, Chile.

Sarmiento, Mount.

Sauce, Rio.

Saurophagus sulphureus.

Scarus eating corals.

Scelidotherium.

Scenery of Andes.

Scissor-beak, habits of.

Scissor-tail.

Scoresby, Mr., on effects of snow on rocks.

Scorpions, cannibals.

Scrope, Mr., on earthquakes.

Scytalopus.

Sea, open, inhabitants of. phosphorescence of. explosions in.

Sea-pen, habits of.

Seals, number of.

Seaweed, growth of.

Seeds transported by sea.

Serpulae.

Sertularia, protecting reef.

Shark killed by Diodon.

Shaw, Dr., on lion's flesh.

Sheep, infected.

Shelley, lines on Mont Blanc.

Shells, land, in great numbers. elevated. tropical forms of, far south. fossil, of Cordillera. decomposition of, with salt. of Galapagos. at St. Helena.

Shepherd's dogs.

Shingle-bed of Patagonia.

Shongi, New Zealand chief.

Siberia compared with Patagonia. zoology of, related to North America.

Siberian animals, how preserved in ice. food necessary during their existence.

Sierra de la Ventana. Tapalguen.

Silicified trees.

Silurian formations at Falkland Islands.

Silurus, habits of.

Sivatherium.

Skunks.

Slavery.

Smelling power of carrion-hawks.

Smith, Dr. Andrew, on the support of large quadrupeds. on perforated pebbles.

Snake, venomous.

Snow, effects of, on rocks. prismatic structure of. red.

Snow-line on Cordillera.

Socego.

Society, state of, in La Plata. state of, in Australia. Archipelago. volcanic phenomena at.

Soda, nitrate of. sulphate of.

Soil, frozen.

South American bit.

Spawn on surface of sea.

Species, distribution of. extinction of.

Spiders, habits of. gossamer, killed by and killing wasps. on Keeling Island. on St. Paul's.

Spurs of Guaso.

Springs, hot.

Stevenson, Mr., on growth of seaweed.

St. Helena. Jago, C. Verds. unhealthiness of. Paul's rocks. Fe. Maria, elevated. introduction of spirits into. Louis, Mauritius.

Stinging animals.

Stones perforated. transported in roots.

Storm. in Cordillera.

Streams of stones at Falkland Islands.

Strongylus.

Struthio rhea. Darwinii.

Strzelecki,Count.

Suadiva atoll.

Subsidence of coral-reefs. of Patagonia. of Cordillera. of Coasts of Chile. cause of distinctness in Tertiary epochs. of coast of Peru. of Keeling Island. of Vanikoro. of coral-reefs great in amount.

Sulphate of lime. soda with common salt. soda incrusting the ground.

Swainson, Mr., on cuckoos.

Sydney.

Tabanus.

Tahiti (Otaheite). three zones of fertility. Fatahua fall. Christianity in.

Tahitian.

Talcahuano.

Tambillos, Ruinas de.

Tameness of birds.

Tandeel, pumas at.

Tapacolo and Turco.

Tapalguen, Sierra, flat hills of quartz.

Tarn, Mount.

Tasmania.

Tattooing.

Temperance of the Tahitians.

Temperature of Tierra del Fuego and Falkland Islands. of Galapagos.

Tercero, Rio, fossils in banks of.

Terraces in valleys of Cordillera. of Patagonia. of Coquimbo.

Tertiary formations of the Pampas. of Patagonia. in Chile, epochs of.

Teru-tero. habits of.

Testudo, two species of. Abingdonii. nigra, habits of.

Theory of lagoon-islands.

Theristicus melanops.

Thistle beds.

Thunder-storms.

Ti, liliaceous plant.

Tierra del Fuego. climate and vegetation of. zoology of. entomology of.

Tinamus rufescens.

Tinochorus rumicivorus.

Toad, habits of. not found in oceanic islands.

Torrents in Cordillera.

Tortoise, habits of.

Toxodon.

Transparency of air in Andes. in St. Jago.

Transport of boulders. of fragments of rock on banks of the St. Cruz river. of seeds. of stones in roots of trees.

Travertin with leaves of trees, Van Diemen's Land.

Tree-ferns. southern limits of.

Trees, absence of, in Pampas. time required to rot. silicified, vertical. size of. floating, transport stones.

Tres Montes.

Trichodesmium.

Trigonocephalus.

Tristan d'Acunha.

Trochilus forficatus.

Tropical scenery.

Tschudi, M., on subsidence.

Tubes, siliceous, formed by lightning.

Tucutuco, habits of. fossil species of.

Tuff, craters of. infusoria in.

Tupungato, volcano of.

Turco, El.

Turkey buzzard.

Turtle, manner of catching.

Type of organisation in Galapagos Islands, American.

Types of organisation in different countries, constant.

Tyrannus savana.

Ulloa on hydrophobia. on Indian buildings.

Unanue, Dr., on hydrophobia.

Uruguay, Rio. not crossed by the Bizcacha.

Uspallata range and pass.

Vacas, Rio.

Valdivia. forests of.

Valley of St. Cruz, how excavated. dry, at Copiapo.

Valleys, excavation of, in Chile. of New South Wales. in Cordillera. of Tahiti.

Valparaiso.

Vampire bat.

Van Diemen's Land.

Vanellus cayanus.

Vanessa, flocks of.

Vanikoro.

Vapour from forests.

Vegetation of St. Helena, changes of. luxuriant, not necessary to support large animals. on opposite sides of Cordillera.

Ventana, Sierra.

Verbena melindres.

Vilipilli.

Villa Vicencio.

Villarica volcano.

Virgin forest.

Virgularia Patagonica.

Volcanic bombs. cellular formation of. islands. phenomena.

Volcanoes near Chiloe. their presence determined by elevation or subsidence.

Vultur aura.

Waders, first colonists of distant islands.

Waimate, New Zealand.

Waiomio.

Walckenaer on spiders.

Walleechu tree.

Wasps preying on spiders and killed by.

Water-hog (Hydrochaerus capybara).

Water-serpents.

Water sold at Iquique.

Water, fresh, floating on salt.

Waterhouse, Mr., on Rodents. on the niata ox. on the insects of Tierra del Fuego. of Galapagos. on the terrestrial mammals of Galapagos.

Waves caused by fall of ice. from earthquakes.

Weather, connection with earthquakes.

Weatherboard, New South Wales.

Weeds in New Zealand, imported.

Weight of large quadrupeds.

Wellington, Mount.

Wells, ebbing and flowing. at Iquique.

West Indies, banks of sediment. zoology of. coral-reefs of.

Whales, oil from. leaping out of water.

White, Mr., on spiders.

Whitsunday Island.

Wigwam cove.

Wigwams of Fuegians.

Williams, Reverend Mr. on infectious disorders.

Winds, dry, in Tierra del Fuego. at the Cape Verds. on Cordillera. cold, on Cordillera.

Winter's Bark.

Wolf at the Falklands.

Wollaston Island.

Wood, Captain, on the Agouti.

Woollya.

Yaquil gold mines.

Yeso, Valle del.

York Minster.

Zonotrichia.

Zoological provinces of North and South America.

Zoology of Galapagos. of Tierra del Fuego. of Chonos Islands. of Keeling Island. of St. Helena.

Zoophytes. at Falkland Islands.

Zorillo, or skunk.

THE END