SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13TH.

Called upon R. Wood; met with his wife and two children living in Hebron Street, second floor, 2 rooms connected by folding doors; the one rather smart and the other a kitchen, etc., etc. Bought another copy of Bryant's "Poems" the other given to Mrs. D. Called upon F. Taylor and agreed to call at Carville on Tuesday morning for letters from Mrs. J. Set off to bathe with James, and Thomas and his wife and daughter and a Miss Jones; a pleasant drive along the shore. Inspected the new fort, no guns mounted, more than a mile very heavy and sandy; took dinner; saw a mosquito net. Approaching the town saw a fire. Called at a garden lately owned by a Frenchman; went to see the fire, found it to be the Presbyterian Chapel in Wall Street. Much difficulty in getting through the street in consequence of the pipes, had to move back three times. Hard driving through Broadway; near running over several persons; once between a car and omnibus the former stopping suddenly. A pleasant chat till half past ten. Mrs. Bliss stopped with the children during Mrs. D.'s absence, but was gone home before we returned.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14TH.

Set off and heard Mr. Wood; a reasonable sacrifice devoting ourselves at all times to God. A very respectable looking man but short of enunciation. In going met Mr. Theodore Bliss, who informed us of Mrs. B.'s illness; at noon found her worse, the illness to be cholera. Went to the Unitarian Church in Prince's Street, a gentleman from Carolina not very interesting, heard the Communion Service by Mr. W. all extempore; he breaks the bread which is partly cut, and then distributed by two gentlemen. Both churches are handsome and as usual very neat and uniform; good singing. In the evening James Dean and I took tea with young Crook; the "Isabella" vine with plenty of grapes but hardly ripe, also many peaches. Mrs. C. invisible; the child about the same age as J. D.'s; a good many callers; went with one to hear Dr. Hawkes, an eloquent preacher; the sermon was on "Stand forth," a large proportion of females, the contrary in all Unitarian places. Called upon Abraham Taylor, saw Miss T. and a Mr. Armitage; got home about eleven. Mr. T. desired me to tell Major Watkins that if politics drive him out of the country, he would receive him and make him as comfortable as possible. Scarcely one obscene word observed throughout the States, not more than two or three.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 15TH.

Mrs. Bliss died yesterday at four. Ill little more than 12 hours. Curious that I should have been saying a day or two before, "What a difference if any of us had lost a friend or relation by the cholera." Called upon Dr. Griscome and found him an amusing gentleman; could not find Burnes' Coffee House to see for Cunliffe's letters, nor Bradnor who gave me the stick. A beautiful promenade near the Castle garden; visited the Museum; a large living serpent also an ant hedgehog; a good collection of stuffed birds besides, and also a cosmorama view of different cities, etc., in Europe. Saw the two Woods, one a pianoforte maker and the other a carrier. Went up to Ted's. A suit of black lent me to attend Mrs. Bliss's funeral at four; did not much like the thought of going; apprehensive about Mrs. D. who cannot be persuaded to leave the house; about a dozen attended. Scarves given to the clergyman and doctor, silk gloves to three or four of us. The coffin appeared to be mahogany with a small plate with name, etc., the coffin uncovered and borne to the grave without much order. The service as the Church of England, excepting omitting the chapter from Corinthians. Eight carriages besides the hearse; after interment they separated. Mrs. D. made an effort and came down to tea, and talked over the melancholy affair. Set off after nine to try the American oysters, but did not like them so well as ours, being more insipid. Busy packing up.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16TH.

Rose half past six; as usual another brilliant morning; Mrs. D. at breakfast. Ann Butcher, her niece will be with them now that Mrs. Bliss is gone. Called upon Bradnor, had great difficulty in buying another copy of "Boy's Letter Writer." Mr. Theodore Bliss came to T. D.'s warehouse and accompanied us to the steamer, also Webster and R. Wood, and J. and T. Dean, and Abraham Taylor came with us in the steamer. Lunched, left us at one. Left New York at 11. The day truly delightful; only 7 passengers, dined at 4, but little wind and that not favourable; a shoal of porpoises, 6 and 8 close together. Gave T. D.'s servants two dollars. Am much pleased with the Captain, mate and crew, and also the passengers. The steamer left us at 1 and the pilot at half past ten. Paid for washing 17 pieces including two night caps, 85 cents or 2-1/2d. each.

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17TH.

Passed the night pretty well, dreaming rather pleasantly. On getting up felt qualmish and took a little coffee, but was soon forced to part with it. The wind increased with heavy rain so that all of us but Mr. Frankland (a Quaker) became sick. Took a little soup upstairs but did not keep it long. Remained in the small house till eight. I think I would have escaped better but for the sudden rough weather. The Americans reckon to admire ladies of slender make and pale faces. Mrs. Dean said she knew a young healthy blooming robust girl from England, who had recourse to large quantities of vinegar; at the same time girding herself very tight, so that she was now so reduced that she could not suppose that she could live very long. Mrs. Taylor at Poughkeepsie confirmed the same, stating that young ladies stay away from Church if the weather was at all unfavourable, lest they should be considered stout.

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18TH.

Lay in bed till after seven; as I do not like waiting so long for breakfast (9 o'clock). Found we had not progressed much; the morning warm and fine. Sick again. Took a little tea and dry toast with an egg, and found it more disposed to remain with me. Went on deck and was able to read a few of Bryant's "Poems." Took for lunch two peaches and three slices of melon; again saw Mother Carey's chickens. Dined pretty well upon soup, a slice of mutton, a peach pie, two peaches and three slices of melon. Read some more B.'s "Poems," and also Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men." Difference of time between New York and Liverpool 4 hours and 44 minutes: also 4 dollars and 44 cents making our sovereign of twenty shillings.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19TH.

Rose at half past six, having passed the night comfortably with pleasant dreams, is this occasioned by an empty stomach? Found we had made little way during the night; said to the second mate that we had got on very quickly, but he said they had had a busy time of it, as the wind had been in almost every point. I cannot but think that everything is managed much silenter than with the Britannia; a calm all day, the evening passed very pleasantly in general conversation. Finished reading Bryant's "Poems," some very good and highly descriptive. Had some conversation with several Irish women about returning home, afterwards insulted by some of their countrymen. The longitude is discovered best by a good time piece.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20TH.

Got up at half past six, not having slept so well as when the stomach was empty. Some conversation about Cobbett, most of them against him without knowing much about him. The wind favourable since three o'clock, going 6 to 8 knots an hour. Commenced reading Cobbett's "Life of Jackson." Shuffleboard played. Several porpoises seen. A good many petrels. After lunch a vessel suddenly appeared out of the mist with a X upon it. Supposed to be either a French packet, or one to Philadelphia. Another vessel was seen this morning, another sail seen this evening about 5-1/2. Found two or three slices of melon with a biscuit to be a good lunch.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 21ST.

Passed another good night, and rose at half past six. Found we had been making about 5 knots an hour; three ships in sight; read before breakfast one of Cobbett's sermons "On hypocrisy." In the forenoon two sermons from Chalmers's "Discourses on Commercial Integrity." One of the steerage passengers read from the Scriptures and commented sensibly, but he was laughed at by some graceless Irishmen. In the afternoon Mr. Hopkins proposed to address the passengers. After reading about the talents he proceeded to speak of the Bible as the oldest and best Book. Paine, he said, had denounced it as a forgery, but various authors had mentioned the N.T. Burnett had quoted Lord Clarendon: the Old Testament was much older and was so called at the time the New Testament was published; the difficulty of procuring a copy before the art of printing, if the best, each should strive to get a copy, also read it and understand it, but above all practice it; not to be compared with a library even extending across the Atlantic, because the one only treated of this world, the other of that to come. Read three more of Channing's "Sermons," one fully proving self interest to be the foundation even of our best actions. After tea had a long chat respecting girls, etc. About ten went on deck, a most beautiful moonlight night; a nice breeze which we enjoyed much, after the calm day; more surprising considering the equinox.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 22ND.

Rose about seven; found the wind light but quite favourable. R. C. not a very minute observer. He had never seen the phosphorus light in the sea till last night, though more than fifty days in going out. To-day the same gentleman said he was disappointed with the view from Catskill; but admitted that West Point was rather fine. Mr. Frankland had written home the most glowing account of the scenery. The thermometer to-day 80 degrees; nearly a dead calm all day till ten o'clock. Read a good deal of Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men." Felt more languid and rather sickly, such as I experienced now and then during some parts of the hot weather.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23RD.

Rose at half past six, found us going about six knots an hour, the wind having been favourable since eleven. Finished reading Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men." A turtle observed; a fair wind and delightful all day; air and water 76 degrees, which perhaps is the cause of one feeling languid.

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24TH.

Passed another comfortable night; found we had been getting on well all night; the air and water this morning 74 degrees; the wind favourable from 10 o'clock last night; read Ponreau's "Brief View of the American Constitution"; also the three remaining of Channing's "Discourses," the two first, and the two last excellent. Mr. Street mentions a young gentleman from Boston about to marry one of Mr. Woolley's daughters. Finished the evening by looking at the "Treatise on Singing."

The shortest passage to Liverpool 15 days 16 hours. The shortest passage to New York 17 days. James L. Wilson, Hibernia.

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 25TH.

Passed the night as usual; the contrast between this passage and the last truly wonderful; no rolling or pitching; the wind rather less. About noon a sprinkling of rain which increased and the wind diminished. In the evening fair and a calm. Read half of Mrs. Trollope's "America," and still consider it not so very bad. What a Tory is R. C. calling Bonaparte a great rogue, allowing him no merit hardly as a military character, violating every treaty, the English always right; when told of B. attending his soldiers ill of the plague, said others might and probably would have done the same. After being baffled in argument, if such assertions deserves to be so-called; he concluded by crying out Church and King, when told that W. Scott only pointed out two or three errors he said he was not a proper Tory; may Toryism ever have such a defender! In the morning he had been decrying the commercial character of the French.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26TH.

Found the wind improved, more particularly since five o'clock. At seven 8 or 9 knots an hour. A brig bound to the west. Water 71 and air 64 degrees; still in part of the Gulf Stream which the Captain says seldom extends so far north. Passed a French brig at ten; the wind freshened and we took in some sail. About 5 some sail torn by the wind. At three passed another ship and brig nearly together; after dinner a small bird resembling our sparrow though rather larger and with speckled breast. The nearest point of land is at least 200 miles; it fluttered about refusing any food, then flew into the ladies' cabin and there remained during the evening.

Difference of time two hours from New York.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 27TH.

Passed a more restless night, dreaming of my dear father and sister Mary, and that Charles Darbishire had become grey. After breakfast we passed through an immense flock of gulls, also a little flag attached to a sort of basket, used by the French fishermen to fasten their lines. All night going about 8 or 9 knots. This morning at eight to half past, passed four vessels all in sight at once, several of them brigs, supposed to be French. At 3 twelve more sail, mostly fishing boats; very cold, the thermometer 46 and the water 45.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 28TH.

Dreamed a good deal about my father and William Rothwell, G. Cunliffe and John Bolling, so did not rise till half past 7. Found we had been going all night about 8 knots; the water at seven, 55 degrees, at 9, 65 degrees.

After breakfast the wind gradually lessened, making only about 4 knots; the sails flapping and the ship rolling all the afternoon; particularly between 6 and 10, making it very noisy and disagreeable in the state room; had agreed for Mr. Street to read one of Chalmers's sermons, "On getting money," but the creaking noise prevented my hearing. Read three of Cobbett's sermons, "Bribery," "Rights of the Poor" and "Unjust Judges," also the remainder of Mrs. Trollope's "Description of Niagara."

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 29TH.

Did not rise till eight having not rested very well; also dreamed of my dear father being considered dead and going to be buried, and then coming to life again. Found the wind changed to the south and consequently much warmer; going 10 knots. About 8 or 9 since 10 last night. Air and water 64 degrees. The wind lessened about 4 and continued between 6 and 7 knots. Commenced reading "The Vicar of Wakefield."

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 30TH.

Rose soon after seven; the ship rolling more, so that I had difficulty in shaving. Found that we had been going about ten knots since five, and about eight during the night. After breakfast, we shipped a sea which sprinkled one whilst reading below. Finished the "Vicar of Wakefield." One of the sails tore down. At one P.M. observed a brig going westerly; the wind heavy and the canvas gradually taken in, till we had only a part of two sails of 1st and 2nd mast; fine waves that broke most beautifully curiously coloured, called "Dear little Kangaroos."

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 1ST.

Rose soon after seven, having passed the night pretty well, excepting dreaming a good deal about travelling. Found the wind still favourable but more north; going about eight knots. Passed a brig this morning. Commenced reading Hamilton's[33] "Men and Manners in America"; would be very cold but for the sunshine. A good wind all day; sail reduced towards evening in expectation of a gale, but it went off.

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 2ND.

Passed a restless night, the ship rolling a good deal; dreaming that my father was at Bury attending one of our religious meetings, wearing one of my ruffled shirts. I found we had been getting on, 8 or 9 knots till about five, since only 5 or 6, but should be thankful having had nearly a week's good run. About 4 knots all forenoon; at 12 a little more wind with some rain. A sail to the south-east; another brig in sight at 2 o'clock. A few porpoises.

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 3RD.

Found the wind south-west and making about ten knots; this since eleven o'clock. Finished the first volume of the "Kentuckians" and read a little in the "Youth's Letter-Writer." A fair wind all day, going eleven knots; cold though the wind is south-west.

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 4TH.

The wind still favourable and from the south, making us all night about ten knots. The Captain complains of the alterations made in this line of packets, since one of the old captains took a share. The seamen have ten or twelve dollars per month; the Captain is obliged to take a fourth share; a loss if only two or three passengers; six or seven about pay with a fair cargo. This is Captain Wilson's 97th crossing; only 36 years old; went to sea at fourteen; married about four years ago a French lady at Bordeaux, the father American, with the mother French; two children. A very wet disagreeable day, so that we could not take the usual exercise on deck, and yet tempted to eat more by way of pastime. At dinner one or two Yankees found great fault with my saying "A good deal of factories," declaring it to be bad English, in which Mr. Frankland also acquiesced, thinking it improper to apply the word "deal" to numbers; a deal of money, but not a deal of guineas. I admitted it might be more elegant, though the other was not inaccurate. (See "Johnson's Dic.")

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 5TH.

Little or no wind, and that against us all night so that we have made no way. After all it is best to have the calm at night, more especially as we approach the coast where we may expect to meet more ships. Passed a brig going to the east. A number of porpoises, some of the older attended by their young. Read four or five more of Cobbett's "Sermons." A good deal of conversation about the New York Banks, assisted by the Yankees who would be ready to condemn the reading of Hamilton. Yesterday at 2 had made 252 miles in 24 hours: 272 the most that was ever done by Captain Wilson.

MONDAY, OCTOBER 6TH.

Did not get up till eight as I had not slept so well in consequence of the ship rolling a good deal. Found we have only been going five or six knots during the night. All forenoon the wind light, not more than 4 knots per hour. Went upon deck after nine and was much amused at seeing the porpoises; some could be heard at a distance pushing through the water and soon pass the ship; others would come close to the vessel sometimes two abreast, then would separate and one come with such force that I thought I could almost feel it hit the vessel. Played at Shuffleboard which is done by sliding circular boards upon nine squares with figures making 15 each way.

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7TH.

Did not rise till eight; a brilliant morning but found as expected, that we had had only light winds and made little progress through the night. A most delightful day, sunshine with fair wind. At five, a cry of "Land," we instantly went on deck and observed the Irish coast dimly on the horizon. Read the remainder of the "Youth's Letter Writer," and also Hamilton's "Men and Manners," also Meredith's "Orations." Soon after seeing the land I began to think of my late father and wept to think I should see him no more to relate my wonderful adventures. The wind has been favourable all day and improved still more since noon. About half past six we perceived a lighthouse supposed to be at Kinsale.

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8TH.

Rose at six; found we had been going well all night; were then passing some high land called Saltees[34]. Two vessels astern, one inward, the other outward bound. Heard the Captain up several times. Passed Tuskar lighthouse at eight; one or two towers and several white cottages. Passed Holyhead at five o'clock about five miles off. A glorious sail all day till half past five, then the sky assumed a stormy aspect, the clouds dark and flying in different directions. At half past six a lighthouse hoisted us a signal for a pilot. In about fifteen minutes a light was observed which the Captain said was from a pilot's boat. In 1/4 of an hour after the boat came up and sent off a small boat alongside, when a lusty pilot was at length pulled up into our ship. He brought a newspaper, Whitehaven, 15th July. Immediately the sail was hauled in so that it scarcely moved, though the gale had considerably increased; though a clumsy sort of fellow we all felt easier and no doubt shall sleep better. On coming opposite we hoisted signal 292 which is the number of the Hibernia.

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 9TH.

Last night the pilot came into the cabin at half past ten, and reported the gale to have abated. I turned in immediately to sleep on the favourable intelligence. At twelve, the gale again increased but I was unconscious. Rose before seven; found the wind still favourable. Passing Great Orme's Head; two or three vessels about us, one the Archer that I saw at Quebec, we passed close by. At half past ten a boat came up with four men to assist us in landing. They left Liverpool at twelve and therefore exposed to the gale and all for 17/6. So true as Goldsmith says, "One half the world does not know how the other half lives"; the boat 6-1/2 yards long and only about one foot above the water abaft. Another boat comes alongside; arrived opposite to Prince's Dock a little before two; was nearly an hour in raising it, and then so long in hauling it into dock that I did not get ashore till half past three, too late to pass the Customs house this evening. The first person I saw on shore known to me was young Crook, then Miss Crook and Mary Ann Marsden. Went to the Crooked Billet and engaged a bed; put the letter into the Liverpool Post Office from Mr. Webster and called with Mr. Bowker's letter, but found the Aunt gone from home. Spent the evening at Mr. Crook's.

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 10TH.

Changed a 2-3/4 dollars into 11/2; paid my bill at the Crooked Billet, 3/6 for wine, bed and breakfast and servants; went to Custom House; paid for box of insects 1/6, not duty but entrance fee, 1/- for porterage from packet, they wanted much more, 6d. for calling a car, the carman asked 3/6 but on refusing he consented to take 2/6; not allowed to enter the yard therefore paid another 6d. to the porter, leaving me only 2/6 and the fare to Bolton was 4/-. I looked out for some person I knew. I spoke to a man that I thought was attached to the Bolton Branch, but he did not prove so. Went to the office to desire that I might pay at Bolton; he declined. I asked a lady but she shyed off, and it seemed as if I must stay till the afternoon's train. Luckily another gentleman who was quite a stranger, said he would give me 5/-, he never lent to strangers. The attendant at the Bolton Branch knew me and I borrowed the money and paid my friend indeed, and should have been glad to have asked him to dinner, but he was somewhat intoxicated. He wrote his name and asked me to call upon him at Birmingham, and enquire for Jack Norton.

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 11TH.

I found my sister, her husband and little one with my mother. They had just dined; my father's absence overpowered me and I could eat little dinner.



LETTERS

-1-

Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834.

From THOS. HULME to PISHEY THOMPSON.

My Dear Sir,

Allow me to make you acquainted with our friend Mr. Robert Heywood, the bearer of this, who is a very respectable gentleman from our native town of Bolton and who was well acquainted with our old and much respected friend Dr. Taylor.

Mr. Heywood is now on a tour of pleasure for the purpose of seeing a portion of this great and good country; which needs nothing but great men to render it one of the greatest and most wealthy, "and when the moral, in place of the criminal passions shall prevail," one of the most happy nations in the world. As our friend may stop a few days in Washington, I thought he might spend a few hours pleasantly in your store, and if you can add anything to his pleasure and happiness by showing him anything worth seeing in your wicked city, or by giving him any sort of useful information you will, by so doing, very much oblige your

Sincere friend, THOS. HULME.

N.B. Please make Mr. Heywood acquainted with F. Taylor.

-2-

From Mr. HULME to Mr. JOHN SHACKFORD, Senate Chamber.

Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834.

My Dear Sir,

Allow me to introduce to you a friend and countryman, Mr. Robert Heywood, a very respectable gentleman from our native town of Bolton, who is on a tour of pleasure to see this great and good country, and who intends to visit an old countryman in Lexington, Kentucky, if he be still living there. Have the goodness to make Mr. Heywood acquainted with Mr. Clay who probably may know his friend in Lexington, and please introduce him to any other of our friends with whom he or you may wish him to be acquainted. These favours with any other kindnesses you may render to our friend will oblige very much your sincere friend

THOS. HULME.

-3-

Philadelphia, 18th June, 1834.

To Mr. JOHN HULME.

Dear John,

The bearer, Mr. Robert Heywood, is from the town of Bolton, in our native county and is on a tour of pleasure to see this great and good country. Thee will show to him the L. & P. Canal and thee will give him some idea of the quantity of merchandise which now passes through it, compared with the merchandise on the river ten years since. Thee can make him acquainted with some of the good men in Louisville not forgetting our good old country folks Mr. & Mrs. Keats, to whom give my best respects. Thee will make him acquainted with some of the best offices, of the best steamboats on the river, so that he may be well treated. Thee will also give him good advice so as to enable him to avoid as much evil and to enjoy as much comfort and happiness as possible, and by so doing thee will oblige very much thy truly affectionate father

THOS. HULME.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Liverpool.

[2] Richard Watson (1781-1833), Wesleyan Minister.

[3] Richard Lemon Lander (1804-1834) accompanied Hugh Clapperton the African explorer on his travels and wrote accounts of these.

[4] Adam Fergusson.

[5] Dead-lights = strong shutters made to fit the cabin window to prevent the water entering in a storm.

[6] A fish caught on the rocky shores of New England (Tautoga Americana).

[7] See a description of this phenomena in the Nautical Mag. Oct. 1832.

[8] Grampus, a fish similar to a whale, but carnivorous.

[9] Presumably Basil Hall (1788-1844) who wrote books of his travels.

[10] Frances Trollope (1780-1863) wife of Thomas Anthony Trollope, writer and novelist; visited America 1827-30.

[11] Founded in 1831 by Etienne Girard, a native of France, for the education of orphans.

[12] Richard Crook, a friend.

[13] Andrew Jackson, President, 1829-1837.

[14] William Tipping, a director of the L.N.W. railway in England.

[15] Pishey Thompson (1784-1862), historian of Boston.

[16] Alexander I, Tsar of Russia, 1801-1825.

[17] Since removed as unsafe.

[18] The Canal from the Rideau Lake connects the Ottawa River and Lake Ontario.

[19] John George Lambton, Earl of Durham (1792-1840), was High Commissioner in Canada. Author of "Report on the affairs of British North America."

[20] The boundary between Canada and the United States.

[21] Built in 1823-32.

[22] Built by the French in 1755.

[23] All three had recently been rebuilt.

[24] Died at Boston 1832.

[25] Erected 1825-42 to commemorate the battle of Bunker Hill 1775.

[26] Constitution, American ship in war of 1813.

[27] William Ellery Channing, D.D., 1780-1842, Unitarian Minister at Boston from 1803 until his death.

[28] The sunken reefs which made this dangerous to navigation were removed by nitro-glycerine explosions in 1876 and 1885.

[29] The Catskill Mountains rise abruptly from the Hudson 2000-3000 feet high.

[30] Dr. Priestley died at Northumberland, Pa., 1804.

[31] Botan. Conocarpus.

[32] A light four-wheeled carriage.

[33] Thomas Hamilton, 1789-1842.

[34] Two small islands south-west of Wexford.



Transcriber's Note:

Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note. Bearing in mind that the bulk of this text is a personal journal, irregular punctuation, use of hyphens and variant spellings remain as printed.

THE END